Ferns on Wanggoolba Creek, Fraser Island Queensland Australia

Ferns on Wanggoolba Creek
In the white sands of the creek valley, shaded by the tall canopy of the sub-tropical rainforest, ferns thrive and crystal clear waters flow.

‘My father says there has been a rainforest here
for over a hundred million years.’

So begins the stunningly beautiful children’s book Where The Forest Meets The Sea by Jeannie Baker. This picture book about the Daintree Rainforest in Far North Queensland is illustrated entirely in sumptuous mixed-media collages that live in one’s memory long after the book is closed.

I guess that is why I think of the book every time I’m in a tropical or sub-tropical rainforest.

As I did when I visited Fraser Island in Southeast Queensland.

This island is a short ferry-ride east of Hervey Bay, almost 1600 kilometres (about 1000 miles) south of the Daintree pictured in the storybook, and the sub-tropical forests there are much younger, but there is still a feeling of timelessness as you stand among the tall tree-trunks and the ancient shade-loving ferns.

At 184,000 hectares (710 square miles), Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island. It was formed over hundreds of thousands of years as winds, waves, and ocean currents carried sands from the Australian south-east coast – as far south as Antarctica – out to the continental shelf, and back again.

Stretching 122 kilometre (75 miles) from top to bottom, the island is big enough to get lost in, with countless kilometres of diverse walking tracks and more than 100 freshwater lakes, but small enough to sample in a couple of days. 

UNESCO-World Heritage Listed for its combination of shifting sand-dunes, tropical rainforests, and lakes, Fraser Island is home to half the world’s perched freshwater dune lakes and is is the only place in the world where rainforest is found growing on sand dunes at elevations of more than 200 metres. The diversity of vegetation that has adapted to survive in sand, a soil that is notoriously low in nutrients, makes the island unique.

Fraser Island has a special place in the culture of the Butchulla people, who have lived in the region for more than 5000 years – possibly as many as 50,000 years. They call the island K’gari, and the lakes there are an integral part of their dreaming stories. Native title rights were granted in 2014, giving the Indigenous people the right to hunt, fish, and take water for domestic purposes; and the right to be involved in business development into the future. The Queensland State Government, the National Parks and the Butchulla People are expected to work together to maintain the integrity and beauty of the site.

For it is magically beautiful. Come explore:

Sailboats on the harbour : Hervey Bay, Queensland Australia

Harbour : Hervey Bay
My morning starts pre-dawn in the southern Queensland coastal city of Hervey Bay, where I park my car and wait for a bus to the ferry. Four-wheel drive vehicles and special permits are needed for anyone wishing to drive on Fraser Island: booking a two-day coach tour is much easier!

Reflected images inside the deckhouse, Fraser Island ferry, Queensland Australia

Almost Abstract : Inside the Deckhouse
I love the multi-layered effects you get from reflections in glassed spaces. The ferry cabin has glass on all sides. Our shuttle buses retreat into the distance as we pull backwards into the channel.

Mangroves in low water, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Mangroves in the Intertidal Flats
The ferry crosses from River Heads, 20 minutes south of Hervey Bay, through the protected waters of the Great Sandy Marine Park to a boat landing near the world-famous Kingfisher Bay Resort. Mainland Australia floats on the horizon, just a 50-minute crossing away.

Walkway down to Lake Mckenzie, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Lake Mckenzie
Our first stop was to take a short walk to Lake Mckenzie, one of the most visited natural sites in Australia.

People standing in Lake Mckenzie, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Lake Mckenzie
Lake Mckenzie is a perched lake: that is, a closed pool of water – in this case, 150 hectares (371 acres) in area and just over 5 metres (16 ft) in depth – sitting above the water table, and fed only with rainwater. Organic matter that naturally builds up at the bottom of the lake acts like a plug, keeping the water from draining away. The sand around the lake is nearly pure silica, making it beautifully soft and fine.

Looking back at the shore of Lake Mckenzie, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Boorangoora
The Butchulla people called this lake Boorangoora, meaning Waters of Wisdom. The lake’s acidity prevents many species from growing, so the waters certainly have an intense beauty and clarity, and they feel like warm silk.

Tyre tracks in white sand, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Treads in the Sand
That soft silica sand is everywhere. More than 1500km of sand tracks crisscross the island; our bus is a luxurious MAN all-wheel drive vehicle built in Germany and custom-designed for the island’s conditions. (iPhone6)

Staghorn Fern, Pile Valley, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Staghorn Fern
Our next stop was at Central Station, which is the gateway to several walks into a towering rainforest of satinay (turpentine), brush box, and Kauri pine.

Rainforest tree bark, Pile Valley, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Natures Artwork
These rainforests are exceptional because they grow on the sand dunes at an elevations of 200 metres.

Rainforest tree bark, Pile Valley, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Patterned Bark
The tall, straight trunks of the trees as they reach for sunlight, made them a target for logging until the 1980s.

Central Station, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Central Station
Central Station was a forestry camp in the 1920s when logging was big on the island.

Trailer, Central Station, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Trailer in the Forest
Now the station is a day-use area with information boards and picnic tables.

Yellow, orchid-like flower, Central Station, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Floral Tree
From the Station, we pick up the Wanggoolba Creek boardwalk, …

Wet Forest Floor
… back into the dark shelter of the rainforest.

Rainforest tree bark, Pile Valley, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Tree Trunks

Wanggoolba Creek Boardwalk, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Wanggoolba Creek Boardwalk
The beautiful boardwalk takes us through piccabeen palms (Archontophoenix cunninghamiana) and giant king ferns (Angiopteris evecta).

Waves of Sand on Wanggoolba Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waves of White Sand
The boardwalk follows Wanggoolba Creek, which is so impossibly clear and blue that it is called the ‘invisible creek’.

Fraser Island satinay rainforest, Wanggoolba Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Fraser Island Satinay – Syncarpia Hillii
In the 1920 the satinay – sometimes called a Fraser Island turpentine – became a major timber export after it was found to be salt-water-, fire-, and termite-resistant. The wood was used in the construction of the Suez Canal and the rebuilding of the London Docks.

Wanggoolba Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Wanggoolba Creek
This was a Sacred Women’s Business place for the Butchulla people.

People walking on th track to Lake Wabby, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Track to Lake Wabby
After lunch, we walk through a completely different forest of twisting eucalypts, …

People walking on Hammerstone Sandblow, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Hammerstone Sandblow
… across the dunes of of the Hammerstone Sandblow, …

People at the edge of Lake Wabby, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Lake Wabby
… and down to the island’s deepest lake. The emerald-coloured Lake Wabby is both a window lake: formed when a depression lower than the water table is surrounded by higher land; and a barrage lake, created when moving sand dunes block a watercourse. Hammerstone Sandblow is slowly encroaching into Lake Wabby, and one day will obliterate it completely.

Path in the woods, Lake Wabby, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Path in the Woods
The sandy track to and from Lake Wabby is 2.4 kilometres long.

Delicate white orchid on the track to Lake Wabby, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Wild Orchid on the Track
There are plenty of flowers along the track …

Tufts of grass at the base of a eucalyptus tree, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Grasses and a Eucalypt
… and some magnificent gum trees.

Names carved on a eucalyptus trunk, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

“Love Notes” in a Scribbly Gum
Previous walkers have left their marks.

Guinea Flower, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Guinea Flower – Hibbertia Scandens

Twisting eucalyptus trunks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Sculptured Gums
Twisting eucalyptus trees line the trail …

Yellow Banksia, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Yellow Banksia
… and banksia trees love the dry, sandy soil.

Text: Take only Pictures

I was entranced!

And, after a night in a modest room at the Eurong Resort, I had another day of exploring to go.

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 07June2019

  • […] Thanks to Air Fraser, like Yendingie and K’gari, I could appreciate those mirrors-lakes and lush forests from above. UNESCO-listed Fraser Island truly is a unique place of uncommon beauty: the world’s largest sand island with a remarkable eco-system (see: Fraser Island Forests and Waters). […]ReplyCancel

Wall Art in the Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

Offering Incense
If Ancient Egyptians wanted a good afterlife, they had to offer the right gifts to the myriad of Gods. Inside his own tomb, Ramesses III is pictured with a gift of incense.

The Ancient Egyptians had a complex religious system which pivoted around their belief in immortality.

They saw death as a temporary interruption to life, rather than as an endpoint. But, there were several catches: the form of one’s afterlife depended on one’s social status in this life; ensuring eternal life required paying appropriate homage to the various gods; and – perhaps most importantly – the spirit needed to be able to find and reenter the correct body after corporeal death.

These beliefs lead to incredibly complex mummification processes and funerary rites. The funeral ceremony helped the dead to bridge the physical world to the eternal world of the afterlife.

We know all this because the texts describing the processes of mummification, the magic spells to protect the ‘deceased’ on their journey, and the rituals and protocols required of them and the living mourners, were all painstakingly rendered on the walls of the tombs of the most affluent and most revered of the Ancient Egyptians: the Pharaohs (see: The Writing on the Walls). 

Since the discovery of the Rosetta Stone in 1799, Egyptologists have been meticulously interpreting the hieroglyphs that cover the walls of the Pharaohs interred in the Valley of the Kings across the Nile River from Luxor, giving us all a richer understanding of the lives (and deaths) of peoples who lived some 3000 years ago.

Join me for a glimpse into the tombs of Merenptah, Rameses III, and Tut Ankh Amun.

Workers clearing rubble in the Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Works Ongoing
The Valley of the Kings is an extensive area across the Nile from Luxor (Thebes). For about 500 years, it was the burial site of most of Egypt’s Pharaohs from the 18th, 19th, and 20th dynasties. Almost all the known 63 tombs and chambers were opened and robbed in antiquity, but exploration and restoration continues today.

Workers clearing rubble in the Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Workers on the Hillside above the Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah
The whole area of Thebes, with its temples and palaces at Karnak and Luxor, and the necropolises of the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, is UNESCO-listed. This (hopefully) also protects the conditions of workers in the suffocating heat.

Guide explaining Tomb KV5 at the signboard, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt

Walid Explaining Tomb KV5
The guides don’t enter the tombs, but use the explanatory signboards outside to explain the layouts, the artworks, and the significance to their groups.

Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Entry to the Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah
I opted to climb up the hill to explore the Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah.

Hieroglyphs in the Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Hieroglyphs in the Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah
The minute you step inside the tombs, you are in another world.

Steep stairway into Tomb KV8, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Entering Tomb KV8
The Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah (Merneptah) or Rameses IX is steep, descending deeply into the surrounding limestone.

Hieroglyphs in the Tomb of Pharaoh Merenptah, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

More Hieroglyphs
The walls all have a story to tell.

Head of the stone sarcophagus of Merenptah , KV 8, Luxor Egypt

Calcite Sarcophagus
Merenptah was unusual among the Pharaohs in that he was interred inside four nested sarcophagi. Reduced to fragments more than 3,000 years ago, the outermost sarcophagus was the largest ever found, at 4.1 meters (about 13 1/2 feet) long.

Climb up to the exit from Merenptah

Exit from Merenptah’s Tomb
The tombs are all incredibly dark – but no cooler than the blinding morning outside.

Guard at the Exit from Pharaoh Merenptah

Guard at the Exit
A ticket to the Valley of the Kings gains you entry to three tombs. Although everyone cheerfully snaps phone-pictures, if you want to use a camera, you pay extra! Attendants make sure the rules are adhered to.

Man in a white headscarf, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Man in a Coffee Shop

Depiction of a God inside the Tomb of Pharaoh Rameses III, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

God at the Entry
The Gods are everywhere – this one is just inside the Tomb of Pharaoh Rameses III.

Wall Art in the Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

Incense Offering
The crook and flail, both used by early shepherds, symbolise the power and majesty of the kings of Ancient Egypt.

Wall Art in the Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

The Serpent and the King
The funerary texts depicted on the walls of the tombs helped to explain the expectations of Egypt’s deceased. Snakes and serpents – representing transformation and change – feature heavily.

Wall painting of a Funerary Boat in the Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

Funerary Boat in the Tomb of Rameses III
Boats transported the dead person from this life into the afterlife.

Hieroglyphs on the Columns, Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

Hieroglyphs on the Columns
KV 11 is one of the most popular tombs in the valley, and even during a quiet season crowds file past the decorated columns.

Hieroglyphs on the walls, Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

Hieroglyphs
It is also one of the best preserved.

Hieroglyphs on the walls, Tomb of Rameses III, Luxor Egypt

Corridor in the Tomb of Rameses III
There is plenty to appreciate.

Wall art on the inner tomb of Tut Ankh Amun, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Inner Tomb of Tut Ankh Amun
The last tomb I visited was that of the Boy King Tut Ankh Amun. (iPhone6)

Mummy in the tomb of Tut Ankh Amun, Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Mummy of Tut Ankh Amun
This small tomb is on a separate ticket which didn’t include my camera. Like the other visitors, I relied on my phone. (iPhone6)

Workers clearing rubble in the Valley of the Kings, Luxor Egypt.

Workers in the Valley
Back outside, the sun continues to bounce off the stony landscape, and the workers continue their labour.

Tourists at a poster, Valley of the Kings Visitors Centre, Luxor Egypt

Explaining the Restorations
The air-conditioning in the Valley of the Kings Visitors Centre was exceptionally attractive after a morning out in the oppressive heat of the valley; pausing to read the posters made for a good excuse to enjoy it!

The beauty of the functional artworks – and the complexity of the belief system behind them – is just mind-boggling.

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

But, the heat – dry as it might be – is enervating. With images of eyes and birds and serpents and kings swirling around my head, I was glad to return to the air-conditioned comfort of my bus.

Wishing you safe travels – in this life and beyond.

Pictures: 07October2019

Dark Pink Water Lily, Sri Lanka

Water Lily in Bloom
Wherever you find water in South East Asia – whether it be in lakes, or ponds, or pots – you will find a dazzling array of water lilies and lotuses. (iPhone6)

When ever I think of Sri Lanka, I think of water: lotus and lily ponds, flooded rice paddies, dams and reservoirs, and rain. Lots of rain.

I was travelling solo on a trip that had been originally planned for two, and although it was November, the south-western monsoon clearly didn’t realise it was meant to be finished. Fortunately, the property where I was staying in North Central Province had great food and good internet. I had access to a kayak, and spent a couple of hours paddling on the local reservoir. 

My room was also equipped with giant umbrellas, so I could enjoy my rainy morning walks around the rice paddies and lily ponds in the middle of nowhere. And, better yet, it came with a bicycle! I had a few ideas of places to visit, but the transport prices in the compendium were listed in US dollars and clearly well over local market value! There had to be a better way. I took advantage of a brief break in the weather, google-mapped the route to the nearest town, and set off on the bike to try to find a tuk-tuk driver. 

The locals in town – who spoke no English – were clearly not used to tourists who weren’t prepared to pay resort-prices for over-sized over-chilled air-conditioned cars, and basically stared at me in wonder. I must have been at the only resort in the area catering to foreigners! But, I was determined. I’ve spent enough time in Asia to know that if you simply smile and dig your heels in, eventually someone will find a way to problem-solve.

Sure enough, they finally managed to locate a local tuk-tuk driver who was able to travel outside the town (I think the tuk-tuks are colour-coded?). He recognised the name of one of the places I had written down: the Aukana (Avukana) Buddha Statue (අවුකන බුද්ධ ප්‍රතිමාව). With a lot of sign-language and pointing at my watch, and the help of half the neighbourhood, we agreed he would pick me up after lunch.

Although he spoke the barest few words of English, and I speak absolutely no Sinhala, my driver and I managed fine (much to the surprise of the reception at my resort, who noted all his details with concern before they let me go off with him). Although the site was only an hour away, if I understood him correctly, he had last visited when his children (now grown) were small, and he clearly enjoyed the trip as much as I did.

Rice paddies, Thirappane, North Central Province, Sri Lanka.

Rice Paddies
The rains were intermittent, and between the showers, the skies were blue and the temperatures soared. My bungalow was set among the sparkling rice paddies of Thirappane, where people were hard at work.

Dark Pink Water Lilies, Sri Lanka

Water Lilies
Every morning on my walks, I paused to appreciate the flowers. One of the differences between lotuses and water lilies is that lotus leaves and flowers rise up out of the waters, while lilies float. Even so, I think these are lilies. Like the symbolic lotus, these flowers are rising out from their muddy roots and base desires, up to the higher realms of divine awareness and beauty. (iPhone6)

Tree trunk and floating plants at the edge of a water reservoir, Tirappane, Sri Lanka

Trees on the Tank
The local reservoir was a tangle of water hyacinth and other floating plants, and huge, water-loving trees. (iPhone6)

Man in a green kayak on the Tank, Tirappane, Sri Lanka

Kayaking on the Tank
In spite of the short rain squalls, it was a lovely paddle on the tank – just mind you don’t go down the overflow! (iPhone6)

Man in a green kayak on the Tank, Tirappane, Sri Lanka

Kayak and Horses on the Tank
The skies darken, as it threatens to rain again. A pair of horseriders pick their way through the water hyacinth in the distance. (iPhone6)

Photo of small Sri Lankan street from the back of a tuk tuk, Tirappane, Sri Lanka

Tuk-Tuk Selfie
One of the things I love about using local tuk-tuks is that you feel much more a part of the surrounding countryside. On this occasion, that openness meant getting pelted with rain periodically in spite of roll-down platic windows.

Aukana Buddha, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Aukana (Avukana) Buddha
According to most reports, this large Buddha statue was sculpted out of the granite rock face behind it in the 5th century AD.

Aukana Buddha, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Standing Tall
At almost 12 meters (about 40 feet) tall, the Aukana Buddha is the tallest ancient Buddha statue in Sri Lanka.

Aukana Buddha, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Looking up the Aukana Buddha
It is also considered to be one of the best examples of an ancient standing Buddha statue in Sri Lanka. The graceful pleats of the robe are impressive.

At the Feet of the Aukana Buddha, Avukana, Sri Lanka

At the Feet of the Aukana Buddha
It is said that the statue is so well aligned that a raindrop on the nose would fall straight down to small depression carved between the toes. We had plenty of rain, which dulled the light, but the scafolding in place for ongoing maintenance meant I couldn’t test the raindrop story!

Aukana Buddha, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Asisa Mudra
The hand position of the Buddha, the Asisa Mudra or “posture of blessing”, is not commonly seen outside Sri Lanka.

Aukana Buddha, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Visitors to the Standing Buddha
It is a quiet site – and not a particularly extensive one. Only a few faithful braved the rain to pay tribute.

Buddhist Stupa, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Buddhist Stupa
I was the only foreigner there, and the Abbot made a point of coming out to talk to me. After a short chat – his English was immaculate – he found out I had worked in Thailand, and promptly offered me a job at the local temple school!

Small Buddha in an Alcove, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Buddha in an Alcove
Buddhism was officially introduced into the country in the 2nd century BC, making Sri Lanka the oldest continually Buddhist country in the world. Today, about 70% of the population practice the state religion of Theravada Buddhism.

Portrait: Hindu Priest, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Hindu Priest
Adjoining the site, there is a small temple to Ganesh; freedom of religion in Sri Lanka is constitutionally  protected and about 13% of the population is Hindu. I paid my dues and received extra blessings.

Kala Wewa, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Kala Wewa
While the provenance of the Aukana Buddha is under some debate, there is no doubt about the giant reservoir nearby: Kala Wewa was built by the King Dhatusena in 460 A.D.

Kala Wewa, Avukana, Sri Lanka

Kala Wewa
Dhatusena (Datusena/Dasenkeli) was king from 455 to 473 AD. This twin reservoir complex, with a capacity of 123 million cubic meters, is one of 16 interconnected tanks built under his rule to develop agriculture in the country.

Dark Pink Water Lilies, Sri Lanka

More Water Lilies (iPhone6)

After making it back to the resort safely, my driver and I were both enboldened, and with the help of a translator, we agreed arrangements for a trip further afield the next day (see: Sigiriya).

In the meantime, though, I had time to wander among the rain, the rice and the water lilies.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 02-04November2018

Western Highland man applying face paint in a hand mirror, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea

Mirror, Mirror!
High in the steamy, mountainous jungles of Papua New Guinea, a Western Highland tribal warrior gets ready for a local sing-sing – a festival of culture and dance.

I don’t know how many of Papua New Guinea’s more than 7000 different cultural groups live in the wide, fertile valleys and surrounding mountainous jungles of the Highlands in the country’s interior, but there are a lot!

The Highlands were first populated about 50,000 years ago by nomadic foragers. By 10,000 years ago, people were planting crops and settling into villages. Those tribal groups developed their own unique languages, beliefs, and customs, as they remained separated from their neighbours by the rugged terrain and a culture of inter-tribal warfare and animosity. They had no contact with Europeans until the 1930s, when explorers came into the area looking for gold. In spite of those, and later, intrusions by European mining and logging companies, and the presence of Australian and New Zealand soldiers during World War II as they (with the help of the Papuans) stopped the advance of Japanese troops south towards Port Moresby, life here has changed little. Traditional practices and beliefs remain strong.

The easiest way for a visitor to appreciate some of this incredible cultural diversity is to attend a sing-sing: a peaceful gathering of tribes or villages that showcases their distinctive dances and traditions. I was in Papua New Guinea with a small but intrepid group of photography enthusiasts and photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. We were attending the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show, which takes place annually before the better-known and larger Mount Hagen Show.

We arrived at Paiya Village early, allowing us to appreciate how long the extensive preparations take! I was able to spend time with a number of tribal groups as they painted their faces and crafted their costumes for the afternoon’s performances. I have previously shared pictures of people from Jiwaka Province (see: Feathers Fur and Facepaint) and from Engan Province (see Big Hats and Small Drums) as they got ready for the show.

Now, it was time to focus on some of the dancers from the Western Highlands Province, which is where Paya Village is located, and the well-known and popular Huli Wigmen, who had travelled in from Hela Province many miles away. Originally, all these vibrantly painted faces and elaborate costumes were meant to instil fear in ones opponents during battle, but the process of getting ready also served as a group bonding exercise, and today, the ritual is a means of passing on traditions and stories.

Join me in the jungle for some environmental portraits of these men in what was traditionally war-paint, and is now reserved for sing-sings.

Portrait: Huli Wigman, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Huli Wigman
Even before they apply their distinctive red-and-yellow facepaint, the Huli Wigman of the Hela Province in the Southern Highlands stand out.

Portrait: Back of a Huli Wigman

Fixing the Wig
Their extraordinary structured wig-hats are made from their own hair. The young men go to a secretive Huli Wig School to learn the magic and special diet required to grow enough hair to craft the wigs.

Two Huli Wigman fixing a headdress, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Helping Each Other
The men wear kina shells around their necks with a kokomo (hornbill) beak on the back. The headdresses are adorned with precious parrot and bird of paradise feathers.

Western Highland man applying face paint in a hand mirror, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Western Highlands Man
Every tribal group has their own face-paint style. It takes time and concentration to achieve the final result with small hand-held mirrors. Here, a vehicle rear-view mirror gets a second life.

Portrait: Western Highland man in face paint smoking, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Smoke Break
The Western Highland headdress starts with a stitched bilum-bag form that is padded out before being decotated with feathers, fur, vegetation, and shells.

Western Highland man applying face paint in a hand mirror, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

String Ties and Kina Shells
The whole process is fascinating to watch.

Western Highland man applying face paint in a hand mirror, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Face in a Shard of Glass
All along the jungle track, the men are applying their ritual colours. That distorted cheek on the woman in the background is a wad of ever-present betel nut chew.

Portrait: Western Highland man in face paint smoking, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Another Smoke Break
Tobacco is also ubiquitous: mostly long-leaf and self-rolled. This stylish looking cigarette is actually rolled in carefully cut newspaper.

Western Highland man applying face paint in a hand mirror, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Eye in the Mirror
If ever I come back to this area, I will bring a bag full of hand-held mirrors!

Western Highland man applying face paint in a hand mirror, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Makeup in the Mirror

Close up: Western Highland beaded armband with grasses, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Arm Band
Full costumes incorporate a lot of fresh local greenery.

Portrait: Huli Wigman applying face paint, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Applying Face Paint
A little way down the jungle track, another group of Huli Wigmen are at various stages of of readiness – each with his own small looking glass.

Portrait: Huli Wigman applying face paint, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

White Face Paint

Portrait: Huli Wigman applying face paint, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Yellow Paint and Eye Contact
The second colour layer is the yellow face paint. Traditionally, the men used ambua, a bright yellow sacred clay. Today, store-bought acrylic paints are more often substituted.

Portrait: Very young Huli Wigman, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Young Wig-Boy
Only young, virgin males from Hela Province can go to wig school. They usually enter at 14 to 15 years of age, and don’t leave until they graduate after at least 18 months. If they want a second (or third) wig, they re-enroll. This young lad’s hair has a way to go before it will be woven into a headdress.

Ceremonial Wig
The wigs are wonderful concoctions! Most men own more than one, but all the hair has to be grown before they get married. Ceremonial wigs are meant to look like the silhouette of a bird with its wings stretched out.

Getting Ready
Looking at the bird parts and feathers that go into these headdresses is rather alarming, but the Huli have a reverence for birds, and the feathers are carefully looked after from one year to the next.

Detail: Huli Wigman

Hornbill Beak and Pig Tusks

Young Western Highlander male, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Young Western Highlander
Not everyone is performing. A local lad is as fascinated by the Wigmen as I am.

Portrait: Huli Wigman applying face paint, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Yellow Paint on the Wigman
Paint brushes are made from twigs with one end chewed to make them pliable.

Portrait of a Wigman in the Making
The young lad didn’t have to do his own paint; one of the elders was looking after him.

Portrait: Huli Wigman in face paint, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Triangle Eyes
Like the wig decoration, the face paint has minor variations on a general theme.

Portrait: Huli Wigman applying face paint, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Concentration
I’m impressed by the men’s sustained concentration, …

Tourists
… especially considering the number of phones and cameras in their faces!

Huli Wigmen Dancing, Paiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Huli Wigmen Dancing
Finally it all comes together! The Wigman ‘dance’ involves a singing-chant while the men jump up and down as if they were on invisible pogo sticks.

Western Highland Men DancingPaiya Village, Papua New Guinea.

Western Highland Men Dancing
The Western Highland men, with their headresses topped with tall feathers, approach with a yodeling march.

It is easy to imagine how terrifying either of these groups would be be, coming at you through the jungle!

I’m very glad that inter-tribal disputes – although far from ended – are greatly reduced these days. Sing-sings give the tribes a chance to maintain and show off aspects of their culture without the bloodshed.

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

And, they give us the chance to enjoy them as well.

Until next time,

Safe Travels!

Photos: 18August2017

  • Karl Grobl - May 21, 2020 - 12:52 pm

    Great story and images as we’ve come to expect from your wonderful blog. Reading and viewing your posts always brings back wonderful memories of the trips we’ve shared. Thanks for taking the time to put this together with such a wealth of information, insight, and imagery.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 22, 2020 - 2:50 am

      Many thanks for your visit, Karl! It’s always great to see you – whether on-line or on the road. 😀ReplyCancel

  • […] I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. Our small group was attending the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show, which takes place annually in the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, just before the better-known and larger Mount Hagen Show. The beauty of this smaller show is the access that visitors have to the different tribal groups as they decorate their bodies and faces with paint and mud, leaves and feathers (see: Mirror, Mirror!). […]ReplyCancel

Nori Aoki at bat for the Seattle Mariners, 6 June 2016, Safeco USA

Nori Aoki at Bat for the Seattle Mariners
TheAmerican Dream and baseball’s ‘Field of Dreams’ are tightly interwoven, in myth and in reality. In a nation built on immigrants, Norichika Aoki (playing here for the Seattle Mariners) is one of over 25% of pro-baseball players who were born outside the USA. (06June2016)

“Take me out to the ball game,
Take me out with the crowd;
Buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack,
I don’t care if I never get back.
Let me root, root, root for the home team,
If they don’t win, it’s a shame.
For it’s one, two, three strikes, you’re out,
At the old ball game.”

There can’t be a North American child who doesn’t know that chorus from the 1908 Tin Pan Alley song Take Me Out to the Ball Game. A central element in countless television shows and popular movies – including the eponymous 1949 musical starring Gene Kelly and Frank Sinatra, the song has been recorded by artists as diverse as Carly Simon, Bing Crosbie, and Dr John.

This chorus is also a feature at the baseball games for which it was written. What I didn’t know when I attended my first professional game, however, was that you have to wait for the middle of the seventh inning before you hear it!

This year, there is no music blaring from the loudspeakers. It is, as they say in baseball, a whole new ball game. The fields and ballparks are quiet and the bleachers are empty. Around the world, various sports have experimented with playing to empty stadiums. Here in Australia, the major football and rugby codes are struggling with social distancing regulations in attempts to get games up and running again. In the United States, it is spring, which is normally  the start of the baseball season. But in March, in response to the Covid-19 pandemic, Major League Baseball announced that the season would be postponed “indefinitely”.

That has to hurt! Baseball has been called the National Pastime and the Heartbeat of America. In 1954, French-American historian and social commentator Jacques Barzun wrote: “Whoever wants to know the heart and mind of America had better learn baseball.”

Baseball is so embedded in the American psyche that its idioms are an everyday part of the language: to hit a home run or bat a thousand; to go to bat for someone or to touch base with them; to play hardball or make a ball park figure estimate; to have two strikes against you or to strike out completely; to step up to the plate or swing for the fences; to play ball, throw a curve ball, or take a rain check; to be on the ball, off base, out in left field, or out of one’s league, to list just a few.

Unlike me, my husband spent most of his early years in the US and grew up to be a keen fan of basketball and baseball. No matter what time-zone he was living or working in, he would find March Madness basketball tournaments on television. He called the Seattle Mariners his “home team” in baseball, and followed their games – by phone and wifi where necessary – from one end of the season to the other. Twice we were able to co-ordinate short travel-stops in Seattle when the Mariners had home games (both times against the Cleveland Indians), so, off we went to the home field.

I don’t know enough about baseball to find the game all that interesting, so I took my cameras with me – otherwise those long intervals during which nothing seems to happen would have driven me to distraction!

Join me at the ball game.

People at the entry to Safeco Left Field, Seattle

Safeco Left Field
We were lucky enough to have beautiful weather for our excursions – via public transport and foot – into the ball park. (29May2015)

Womens PGA hitting baseballs with a golf club, Safeco, Seattle USA

Womens PGA Players
Before the game starts, all sorts of things happen on the field. One year we watched pro golfers returning baseballs! (06June2016)

Miller and Seager stretching on the grass, Safeco, Seattle USA

Miller and Seager Warming Up
The home team does their warm-up routine on the field. (29May2015)

Seattle Mariner stretching on the grass, Safeco, Seattle USA

Stretches
Some of the players get the trainers to help with their pre-game warm ups. (06June2016)

Safeco Field Security staff with baseball gift bundles, Seattle USA

T-Shirt Bearers
Security staff are visbly present, and giving out gift-packs. (06June2016)

Seattle Mariner meeting fans pre-game, Safeco, Seattle USA

Meeting the Fans
Many of the players meet fans at the fence … (29May2015)

Nelson Cruz pre-game, Safeco, Seattle USA

Nelson Cruz
… or just smile at the audience from the field. Another foreign-born player, Dominican-American Nelson Cruz is a six-time MLB All-Star who spent four years with the Mariners. (06June2016)

Local school choir on the field, Safeco, Seattle USA

Local School Choir
Once the National Anthem has been sung, the first pitch is not far away. (29May2015)

Robinson Canó high-fives another Seattle Mariners player, Safeco, Seattle USA

Meeting Team Mates
Robinson Canó, currently with the New York Mets, is another Dominican-born player who was four years on the Seattle Mariners line-up. He was named for Jackie Robinson, the civil rights hero and legendary ball player who broke the baseball colour barrier in 1947. (29May2015)

Taijuan Walker pitching, Safeco, Seattle USA

Walker Pitching
Seattle’s starting pitcher Taijuan Walker winds up and lets a ball fly. (29May2015)

Kipnis at Bat, Safeco, Seattle USA

Kipnis at Bat
The first batter for the Cleveland Indians was Jason Kipnis. To amuse myself, I tried to catch the balls in flight; you can just see this one streaking towards his bat. (29May2015)

Kipnis at Bat, Safeco, Seattle USA

Jason Kipnis at Bat
I’m sure it was pure coincidence that Seattle was once again playing against Cleveland when we attended our next game over a year later! (06June2016)

Austin Jackson and Chris Woodward on first base, Safeco, Seattle USA

Confab
A lot of discussion seems to take place between innings – and even between plays. Center-fielder Austin Jackson is on first base; coach Chris Woodward is there to give advice. Who knew you needed help to decide whether or not to run? (29May2015)

Nelson Cruz at bat, Safeco, Seattle USA

Nelson Cruz at Bat
When the batters connect with the ball, you can hear it – and see it. (06June2016)

Portrait: Man with a tray of lemonaide drinks on a tray on his head, Safeco, Seattle USA

Fresh Lemonade
Half the fun of the game is watching the vendors spruiking their wares. (06June2016)

Portrait: Man with a basket of lpopcorn bags, Safeco, Seattle USA

Popcorn, Peanuts, and Cracker Jacks!
Cracker Jacks were a real treat when I was a kid – one I didn’t get very often. Today, many ball parks sell only popcorn because of the risks to people with peanut alergies.  (06June2016)

Cruz at Bat, Safeco, Seattle USA

Nelson Cruz at Bat
Baseball fans love their statistics: 2015 was possibly the best season of Cruz’s career. (29May2015)

Cruz running to base, Safeco, Seattle USA

Cruz on the Run
By the end of the season, he had a hitting average of .302, with a career-high of 44 home runs and 93 RBIs. (29May2015)

Cruz running to base, Safeco, Seattle USA

Cruz Heading for Base
Fortunately, Cruz made it to base before the catcher got that ball! (29May2015)

Portrait: Toddler in a Mariners shirt, Safeco, Seattle USA

Young Fan
Baseball is a family affair, and many of the fans are very young. (29May2015)

Canó batting on the big screen, Safeco, Seattle USA

Yes we Canó!
The big screens gee-up the crowd. The home team is losing and Robinson Canó is the last hope. (06June2016)

Canó at bat, Safeco, Seattle USA

Canó at Bat
The ball comes in… he hits it, but it wasn’t enough: the game was lost by two runs. (06June2016)

Evening skies over the light fittings, Safeco, Seattle USA

Evening Skies
As the games draw to a close, the skies over Seattle darken. (29May2015)

Seattle Mariners high-five each another, Safeco, Seattle USA

Farewelling Teammates
The Mariners won this game, and happily congratulated each other after the final runs. (29May2015)

Fireworks on Safeco Field, Seattle USA

Friday Fireworks
We had the added bonus of enjoying the fireworks display …

Fireworks on Safeco Field, Seattle USA

Safeco in Lights
… that started as soon as it was dark enough.

We won one and we lost one. Not bad, I guess!

Thanks to the coronavirus pandemic, the lights over Safeco Field – now called T-Mobile Park following the expiry of the original naming deal – are currently off and the Seattle Mariners have been told to enter off-season mode. 

Text: Stay Well - Ursula

This year’s spring training never happened. Once the season opening is announced, it will take time for players to recondition. Even then, the competition won’t feel the same without the audience. 

Like I said, it’s a whole new ball game.