.jpg) Man with Prayer Beads – Patan’s Royal Palace
Patan’s Durbar (Palace) Square is an integral part of the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Listing. The former Royal Palace houses the Patan Museum; but it is much more than that. It is a living, breathing place of architectural beauty, where life continues amid precious buildings and earthquake ruins. Religious expression is a part of daily life in Nepal, and even the buildings are a declaration of faith and a demonstration of artistry.
Patan (or Lalitpur (ललितपुर), or Manigal) is the oldest of the three cities in the Kathmandu Valley. It is known for its rich cultural heritage, cottage industries, and skilled craftsmanship – particularly in metal and stone.
In Patan, even the city plan itself is an iconographic expression of Buddhist principles: the city was designed in the shape of the Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Righteousness). According to the most popular story, Emperor Aśoka (Ashoka), the legendary King of India (r. 268-232 BCE), who embraced Buddhism and ruled across the vast Mauyran Empire, visited this region in 250 BCE while on pilgrimage with his daughter. He directed that five stupas be built: one at each of the four cardinal points, and one in the middle of Patan.
As a consequence, Patan is one of the oldest Buddhist cities in the world.
While the city is said to contain 1200 Buddhist monuments, it is also a center of Hinduism. A dizzying array of courtyards, major temples, and small shrines radiate out from Durbar (or Palace) Square. It is this collection of culturally important and artistically beautiful buildings, with their brick, stone, timber and bronze ornamentation, that results in Patan’s inclusion as one of the seven Monument Zones contributing to the UNESCO World Heritage-listing of the Kathmandu Valley. As UNESCO says, Buddhism and Hinduism both prospered in Nepal and produced an artistic and architectural fusion that came “into its own in the three hundred year period between 1500 and 1800 AD.”
As much as these intricately decorated Newar monuments and buildings impress me, I am even more taken with the people who go about their lives around this living history, and pause to invite strangers to share a glimpse of their world.
.jpg) “Follow the Regulations Gently”
As soon as you enter Patan’s Durbar Square, you find people draped over the ancient Newar architecture. .jpg) Guardian Lions
All across Asia, the entrances to homes, public buildings, and temples of various religions, are flanked by a pair of guardian lions. Thought to be stylistically modelled on the Asiatic lion once common across the continent, they are always found in pairs as a manifestation of yin and yang. Unfortunately, they could not protect Durbar Square from catastrophic damage in the earthquake of April 2015.  Oil Lamps in a Temple
Countless small temples and shrines are dotted all around the square and the city beyond. They are usually dark, with air that is hot and close from flames, and smoky with spicy incense. Lighting a Flame in a Temple
It is customary to ring a bell, make a small offering, and light a flame to awaken the god or goddess before one worships. Applying a Bindi
Trays of turmeric and vermilion ochre are inside the temple so that people can apply thier own bindis before praying, and then go on with their daily routines. Guardian in the Stone
The Garuda is a legendary bird-like creature in Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain mythology. It represents birth and heaven, and is found all around the buildings of Patan. Brass Goods For Sale
Brass vases, door knockers, singing bowls, and various religious iconography are for sale on the streets and in the shops. (iPhone6) Beautiful Brass Woman in a Window
The are a number of old Newari residential houses around Durbar Square. Ceramic Shrine
Some small shrines are not immediately recognisable as such to outsiders, but if you look carefully, you will see the bell on the left and a burner on the right. Newari Woman in Pink
In Nepal, marigolds are considered pure and called the “herb of the sun”. They are signifiant as a religious symbol in Hindu, Buddhist, and Catholic celebrations. That Smile!
Durbar Square is surrounded with countless shops full of art, craft, and smilling faces. Carved Struts
Everywhere you look, someone has put time and attention into the crafting … Carved Pillar
… of all the woodwork and stonework. Man on the Museum Stoop
And, everywhere, there are people bringing the wood and stone to life. Ornate Building Front
Wood, tiles, brick, and brass: the buildings are a multi-media work of art. Men in their Dhaka Topi
Dhaka ko Topi literally means: “headgear made of dhaka cloth”; dhaka is the hand-spun cotton inlay-pattern weaving used to make the intricately patterned and colourful panels for Nepali hats. Men on the Palace Stoop
The Dhaka topi (ढाका टोपी) is a part of the Nepalese national dress. Patan Shrines
Life goes on around the shrines. Smiling Woman
Wonderful faces are everywhere! Old Newari Man Detail: Stone Carving
Intricate work is all around, … Apsara: Female Spirit
… dancing out of the clouds, waters, and stones of the city, … Old Men on the Palace Stoop
… and the smiles are contagious. That belief that life is in the lap of the Gods helps when things go seriously pear-shaped –
 – and for that, I truly envy the smiling people of Nepal!
Until next time,
Namaste!
Photos: 13March2017
Posted in Architecture,Fine Arts,Nepal,TravelTags: architecture,buddhism,buddhist,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,Nepal,people,Photo Blog,religion,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Falls Mill and Wheel – Museum of Power and Industry
Built in 1873, the old water-powered textile factory in Belvidere is just one of many preserved Historic Places in Middle Tennessee. Tennessee is very much a part of “The South”, and all the complex and tangled history that comes with that. Landlocked, and bordered by eight other states (seven of which belong to “The South” according to the U.S. Census Bureau), the state is vertically sliced into three regions. Even without leaving the central one – aptly named Middle Tennessee – you can immerse yourself in all kinds of stories.
Paleo-Indians are believed to have hunted and camped in what is now Tennessee as early as 12,000 years ago (see: Southern Short Stories), and when Western settlers moved into Middle Tennessee during the 1700’s, it was in violation of existent treaties. This central chunk is home to previous presidents (e.g.: Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage) and Civil War battle grounds and “heroes” (see: Southern Short Stories). It is also known for its moonshine and whisky (see: Jack Daniels), as well as it’s night-life and music (see: Music City – Nashville).
Beyond the area’s comlicated history, however, is the natural environment. I am always amazed by how much wild, wooded space there is in Tennessee; the state is home to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which – contrary to most peoples’ beliefs – is the USA’s most visited National Park. I’m just as happy walking in the smaller woods, along clear waterways, in search of the many small, but beautiful, waterfalls (see: Woods and Waterfalls).
In short, it is easy to point in any direction and find something to enjoy and/or learn.
My husband has family in Middle Tennessee, and lucky for us, our last visit coincided with great weather. We pointed the car southeast, and found a railroad museum and a museum devoted to early industry.
Join us in the southeastern-most corner of Middle Tennessee:
Cowan Railway Museum
My husband was a great fan of trains and had a complex model set that required a great deal of space! He was thrilled when his daughter pointed him to this place.
The building, circa 1904, that houses the collection is considered an example of “Railroad Gothic”, and is maintained in the original colours. Freight Train
The depot was moved from its original position across the CSX Mainline and deposited further back for safety. The CSX Mainline is very much in use and, like small children, we waved as this freight train hurtled past. Hamburg Süd
It is a small world! I have a cousin who worked for many years as a merchant mariner out of Hamburg, on the North Sea in northern Germany. Whenever I see the containers, I smile. Honouring the Workers
The museum contains a range of bits and photographs, collected over its thirty-plus year history. I particularly liked the name-plaques of all the employees who had worked at the depot. (iPhone6) NC&StL
Chartered in Tennessee in 1845, the Nashville, Chattanooga & Saint Louis Railway served the people of the south until it was absorbed by the Louisville and Nashville Railroad in 1957. This diesel (GE 44 ton, NC&StL #100) was built in 1950. Fowler Center
Such is the the nature of The South, that even when you don’t have gracious antiquities, buildings are made to look as if you do! Although this looks like a fortress, the Fowler Centre is in fact a swimming pool and sports facility, and part of the small private Episcopal liberal-arts college in Sewanee: The University of the South. We were here to look at the swimming pool – where family members had competed – and to have lunch at the most-excellent nearby coffee shop.
As I said earlier: it is a small world. Years later I met a man at a tiny theatre in Sydney: he was on sabbatical as a drama teacher at Sewanee. He was most surprised to meet someone, well across the world, who had heard of the place, let alone visited! Falls Mill Wheel
Our next stop was at nearby Belvidere, where the old Falls Mill houses the Museum of Power and Industry. The 10-metre (32-foot) overshot water-wheel – believed to be the largest still in use in the US – powers the equipment on all four levels of the old building. Falls Mill Machinery
The mill first opened in 1873 as a cotton and woollen factory. It has been re-purposed many times over the years: at times making brooms, working a printing press, powering a cotton gin, operating a woodworking shop, and today produces stone ground cornmeal, flour, and grits. Wool Carding Machine
Antique machinery is exhibited on the first two floors of the old mill, with many of the items still in working order. This old wool carding machine is under refurbishment. 1929 Aeolian Player Piano
The building houses a number of period pieces; … Piano Hammers
… I was fascinated watching the player piano, as – for a quarter – it played the old tunes. Spooling Cotton Spillway on Factory Creek
While conducting the first survey of Franklin County, surveyors made note of areas where waterways had a measurable drop in elevation. Falls Mill and Wheel
These areas were designated as “mill seats”, where the power of the falling water could be harnessed. On Factory Creek
This was one of the first industrial sites in the county, and is a popular destination for visitors today. Tumble Down Shack Upper Falls on Factory Creek Old Machinery Blacksmith
One of the old outbuildings still operates as a smithy, … Fire in the Forge
… where local artisans come to fire up the forge … Working the Metal
… and handcraft unique metal pieces. Cortner Mill Restaurant
It seemed only fitting to finish the day at another reclaimed mill – this one converted to a restaurant … Duck River
…overlooking the Mill Stream Falls on the Duck River. (iPhone6)
There are fewer things more refreshing than waterways through greenery!
 I can’t wait until we can all wander again…
Until next then,
Stay Safe!
Photos: 19May2016
Posted in History,Travel,USATags: antiques,Franklin County,machines,museum,Photo Blog,Tennessee,TN,trains,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,USA
Melpa Men
The tribal people of Papua New Guinea all have distinctive costumes, makeup, and artifacts, which they happily display at cultural festivals, or sing-sings. In communities without a written language, culture is passed down through the oral traditions of art, story-telling, music, and dance. Even architecture and weaponry can signify meaning.
In Papua New Guinea, there are more than more than 850 discrete spoken languages, and until recently, none of them were written down. Even today, adult literacy sits at less than 62%. In a historically nonliterate society with more than 7000 diverse cultural groups, one of the most popular means of education has been through costume, song, and dance.
Different occasions are commemorated or celebrated through their own ritualised expressions of song, dance, feasting and/or gift-giving. All across Papua New Guinea, locally-specific dances have particular meanings: some are a way to welcome visitors, others celebrate a good hunt or victory in war. Others still tell legendary stories, with each step, twist, and jump embodying its own significance and value.
Some of these dances are shared with neighbouring tribes and with visiting outsiders at sing-sings, gatherings of tribes or villages that showcase local dance, costume and music.
I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. Our small group was attending the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show, which takes place annually in the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, just before the better-known and larger Mount Hagen Show. The beauty of this smaller show is the access that visitors have to the different tribal groups as they decorate their bodies and faces with paint and mud, leaves and feathers (see: Mirror, Mirror!).
In addition to the men’s victory dances that are commonly performed at the bigger festivals, we also got to see some of the more story-telling dances: depicting courtship; demonstrating traditional fighting using bows and arrows or axes and shields; and explaining the negotiation of traditional marriage exchanges of bride-price in pigs, money, and shells.
Best of all, we were also treated to a traditional mumu: a feast of pork, chicken and a variety of fruit and vegetables wrapped in banana leaves and roasted in a ground oven of hot stones.
Join me for an afternoon at the sing-sing.
Face in the Mirror
Arriving at the festival venue early gave us a great opportunity to watch the many layers of face-paint take shape. Helping Each Other
In the steaming hot jungle, small tribal groups are helping each other get ready for their fesival performance. Father-Daughter Duo
Not everyone is here to perform: many of the people who live in this village have come to watch the preparations, just as we have. Jiwaka and Engan Dancers
Once the festival opens, there is a cacophony of drums and voices, as different tribal groups work their way onto the grass grounds. Huli Wigmen Dancing
One of the more distinctive groups, in costume and in dance style, is that of the Huli Wigmen. With luxuriant bird of paradise feathers decorating their hats woven from human hair, the face-painted men bang their drums, chant, and bounce up and dawn as if they had springs in their feet. Introducing the Program
This Jiwaka warrior’s bila – or headdress – was an extraordinary confection of feathers, fur, and felt. Over the PA system, he introduced his group; I couldn’t understand a word! Jiwaka Dancers
Jiwaka Province neighbours the Western Highlands Province, and only split away from it in 2012. The division was because of cultural differences and complicated clan affiliations; … Western Highland Women
… even so, there are a lot of similarities between the groups. Western Highland Women Singing
They all love their feathered headdresses, their face paint, their shells, … Western Highland Women Drumming
… and their small kundu drums. Another theme across many of the groups is the ritual moka kina, a necklace or pectoral ornament made from shell, ochre and resin, and symbolising wealth and bride-price. Melpa Woman – Western Highlands
Asaro Mudmen
The Asaro Mudmen are truly unique – even though they have become rather well known recently through travel campaigns. Mudmen Masks
Traditionally, the Mudmen live near Goroka in the Eastern Highlands Province. The masks are hot and heavy, and the men take them off at the first opportunity. Mudman on the Mike
One of the men tells the costume-origin story. Fortunately, I had heard it before (see: Asaro Mudmen), as I found the PA hard to understand. Boney Hands
Another unique group, the Skeleton Men come from Chimbu Province, in the Central Highlands. Skeleton Man
Moving like zombies with their eyes shut, they perform a silent story-dance that tells a tale of brave hunters who rescued their children from a ghost and conducted a magic spell to scare it away. Skeleton Men
Some days earlier, I had watched a group of these men go through their lengthy process of body painting (see: Bugamo Skeleton Men). Jiwaka Dancer
There are more feathered headdresses here than at a burlesque dance show! Melpa in Blackface
The Western Highland headdresses take a variety of forms: the most basic is a head net, wrapped around the wearer’s head, but for special events, fabulous wigs supported by bamboo frames can be made from hair or seed burrs. Western Highland Men
The configuration of the headdress, and the rest of the costume, is determined by the tribe, and the event being celebrated. They are all wearing their moka kina breast plates. Preparing the Mumu
The performers take a break so we can admire the work that has gone into preparing our mumu – earth-oven lunch. Grandma and Bub
I am not the only one anxiously waiting for my food! Lunch is Ready! Western Highland Warrior with his Axe
After lunch, we are treated to complex tales of bride kidnapping, pig theft, and inter-tribal warfare. Highland Warriors in a Melee
As well as stone axes, the men use wooden arrows and spears … After The Battle
… and protect themselves with heavy wooden shields. Pronouncements of a Tribal Elder
After skirmishes and negotiations, a bride price is agreed between villages. Groom’s Group
The groom looks forward to his bride, … The Bride
… the bride is smiling, … Chief with a Moka Kina Shield
… and the pigs and moka kina shields are exchanged. On the surface, it sounds transactional, but the moka was/is an exchange system wherein the donor gives shells and pigs as outright gifts. Reciprocity means that the recipient is later obligated to give a larger amount back. In this way, the exchange of wealth builds friendships and cements alliances.
 The younger generation is faced with the competing demands of tradition and the modern and changing world. Participation in cultural dance performances can instil pride in the old ways, and help bridge the gap to the new.
Here’s hoping!
Pictures: 18August2017
Posted in Culture,Dance,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: culture,dance,environmental portraits,Papua New Guinea,sing sing,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
History in the Stones
Built on the site of a Roman fort, Lancaster Castle has been a fort, a garrison, a royal visitors’ residence, a law court, a prison, and even a place of executions. When you grow up and live in The Colonies, a visit to England can feel like a cultural homecoming. So much is familiar! You recognise places you’ve never been, and half-remember stories you’ve never heard.
I had always wanted to visit the Lake District: images of that pastoral countryside had somehow taken on a mythical quality in my mind. And of course, like any good English child of the mid-twentieth century, I had copies of Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabit and Jemima Puddle Duck long before I had ever heard of Dr Suess. Then – many many years later – I saw the 2006 film Miss Potter on an airplane, and my desires to visit were rekindled.
The world has a funny way of drawing circles: I was born in Liverpool (UK); my children were born very near to Liverpool (AUS). My daughter met, and was about to marry a man from Liverpool (UK), and so my husband and I were travelling from Australia to England for the wedding and an extended stay.
Finally I had my chance to visit/revisit the northwest of England.
My search for reasonably affordable accommodation led me not to the Lakes itself, but to Carnforth, a small town in the north of Lancashire, within a stone’s throw of Yorkshire and Cumbria. This turned out to be the perfect location for us: our resort was well enough equipped to give us things to do (morning walks and afternoon kayaks) as we recovered from the long days of travel, and it was set within easy reach of rich historical treasures and wonderfully pastoral scenery once we were ready to explore.
It was a half hour’s drive to the Yorkshire Dales, where we walked through woods and fields, over stone bridges, and past numerous waterfalls, singing “All things bright and beautiful” to all the sheep we met – in honour of James Herriot, the original “Yorkshire Vet” and author of the delightful All Creatures Great and Small (see:Ingleton Waterfalls Trail).
Our vist to Lancaster Castle the next day was a complete contrast. This rambling medieval fortress is one of Europe’s longest running prisons and one of England’s best preserved castles. For a time, it was the only Assize Court for the county, and it is still in use as as a Crown Court. No pictures are allowed inside, and although the entrance to the courtyard is free, if you want to go into the building itself, you have to pay to join a tour.
As frustrating as I find walking around with my cameras and not being able to use them, the tour was well worth our time and money. I’m sure all the guides are well trained: ours was certainly a wealth of fascinating historical information and amusing anecdotes. I was intrigued by the stories of “Hansbrow’s Hotel”, as the debtor’s prison was colloquially named for the Governor of the Castle (1833-1862) Captain James Hansbrow. As this name suggests, conditions were not too bad for some inmates! However, this was not the case for the founder of Quakerism, George Fox, who was incarcerated on numerous occasions: he wrote about his tower room in Lancaster where the cold, damp, and smoke adversely impacted his health.
In August 1612 the Lancaster Castle Summer Assize convicted ten people of witchcraft and they were hanged on the moors above the town. The Clerk of the Court published his account of the trials the following year, giving us a unique insight into the thinking of the day. For example, the origin of the modern word “haggard” comes from the trial of Margaret Pearson who was convicted of riding a horse to its death (“Hag Ridden”) .
There were many grim tales of hangings within the castle, and the sight of the original branding iron, used to burn an M into a convicted person’s hand, marking them a as a ‘malefactor’, gave me pause. But the stories that most caught my attention were those of transportation, for it was here that the connection to Australia came back into play. It was in Lancaster Castle’s courts that large numbers of prisoners in the 18th and 19th Centuries were sentenced to Transportation to Australia.
Among the 688 convicts who landed in Australia in January 1788 as part of the First Fleet were Elizabeth Youngson, age 13, and her brother George, age 12. Both confessed to their crime of breaking into a silk warehouse and stealing fourty-seven shillings and ninepence. Although originally sentenced to hang, their sentences were reduced to seven years transportation. All the prisoners walked in chains from Lancaster Prison to the small ships at Portsmouth – a distance of some 260 miles (418km). We got to handle the heavy chains, and it is impossible to imagine walking the 90 or so hours it would have taken, wearing them.
We certainly needed some lighter entertainment the next day, so we headed to the beautiful Lake Windermere in Cumbria. We stopped in at The World of Beatrix Potter (no photos allowed!), lunched on the lake, and to appease my huband’s love of classic cars, spent time in the Lakeland Motor Museum.
Any fan of old British television will remember the comedy double-act of Morecambe and Wise. It turns out that Eric Morecambe took his stage name from the seaside town that he grew up in. As Morecambe was only fifteen minutes away, we stopped in for a walk along their ‘award winning’ promenade.
Everywhere we went, there were links to personal memories and shared history.
Lancaster Castle Turrets
It is generally thought that Lancaster Castle was founded in the 1090s on the site of the Roman fort built in 79 AD. The actual history of the building is uncertain. The earliest structure standing today is the Norman keep which probably dates to the 12th century. Much of what we see was built at the start of the 15th century. Our Young Guide
Our young guide had plenty of fascinating stories to tell us as he led us through the courts and jail – where no photos are allowed. Kayaking on the River Leven
One of the things I love about England is all the out-door green space, and all the people making use of it. Look Up!
A model of the iconic World War One Sopwith Camel, as flown by Ace pilot Canadian Donald Roderick MacLaren – and Snoopy from the Peanuts cartooon – greets us as we walk into the Lakeland Motor Museum. Douglas Motorcycles
The Lakeland Motor Museum started as a private collection … Almost Abstract : Hillman Minx Drophead Coupe Grill
… and now comprises over 30,000 motoring related exhibits … Old Trademarks
… packed into a cacophony of colours and logos. Stylish Picnic
There is something very stylish about the early days of motor cars! ‘Top of the Pops’
There was a time when England was at the leading edge of popular culture. Ultramarine Blue
Britain also had a varied manufacturing industry. Before the motoring museum took over this site, it was home to the Reckitt’s Blue Dye Works carton packaging sheds. Licence Plates
These brought back memories! When my father changed our annual licence plates, he would take a picture of my brother and myself standing in front of whatever car we had at the time, holding one each. 1920s Garage
A classic British Standard Motors “Swallow” is in for repairs. Burlingham Langdale Caravan
This 1948 caravan, manufactured by the Burlingham coachbuilding firm in Blackpool is an absolute sweetie! Cat on Lake Windermere
A cat looks for bits of icecream we might have dropped … Lake Windermere
… as we enjoy afternoon views over the lake. Lake District Mountains
You can actually see the Lake District from Morecambe, and this delightful sculpture on the promenade lets you know what you are looking at. Sand Buckets
It might be the Irish Sea, and neither safe nor warm, but any weather is beach weather in England. Birds on the Roof
I love public art like this; … Bird on Marine Road
… Morecambe’s promenade was a pleasure to walk. Eric Morecambe
This work by English sculptor Graham Ibbeson was unveiled by the Queen in 1999. Morecambe Winter Gardens The Stone Jetty
The remains of Morecambe’s original harbour, from around 1853, was rebuilt and extended in the 1990s as part of a coastal defence initiative. Cormorant Sculptures
The TERN Project is a collection of public art installations celebrating the birds and other wildlife of Morecambe Bay. Cormorant on the Stone Jetty Birds on the Fence Boats on the Flats
Morecambe Bay is the largest expanse of intertidal mudflats and sand in the United Kingdom. Boats on Low Tide
The quicksand and fast moving tides make the bay dangerous for walkers and fishers. Those fishing boats weren’t going anywhere for a while!
It was time, however, for us to move on – and leave the northwest behind.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 15-17July2015
Young Daasanach Teen
With her hair braided in the distinctive pattern favoured by all the girls in this village, and draped in the customary beads, a Daasanach girl and her friends are happy to show me around their homes. When I was young, I had a book with pictures of children around the world in their traditional National Costumes. I found the concept difficult to understand, given that where I lived, people dressed differently from each other, and fashion trends changed with every season.
I find it even more remarkable, these countless years later, that there are still so many pockets in the world where every item of clothing, every piece of jewellery and body art, and every hairstyle, is dictated by the community, and one’s place in it.
It was a rainy afternoon in the Omo Valley in a remote corner of south-western Ethiopia. I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour. After a morning spent in a Hamar village (see: Hama Village Portraits), we were visiting a Daasanach settlement not far out of the market town of Turmi.
These two villages couldn’t have been more different!
Daasanach or Dassanech means People from the Delta; they are the southern-most of the tribes who live in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, and stretch across southern Ethiopia, Sudan, and down into Northern Kenya, concentrating in the delta region where the Omo River enters Lake Turkana
Less than 3% of roughly 50,000 Daasanach are urban; the majority of these semi-nomadic Cushitic people live along the Omo and depend on it for their livelihood, especially since being pushed out of their traditional Kenyan lands either side of Lake Turkana. Their cultural and agricultural customs are intricately tied to the harsh and often unpredictable conditions of the region’s semi-arid climate: they practice ‘flood retreat cultivation’ where the (usual) July floods on the Omo River leave rich silt behind. Unfortunately, recent years of severe and sustained droughts alternating with deadly floods have made Daasanach lives more precarious. Added to this, the damming of several large rivers that once fed Lake Turkana and the increased use of river waters for irrigation have reduced water flow. The riverbanks are suffering from deforestation and are hosting additional disease, and the shrinking lake has been overfished, putting extra pressures on food supply.
The village we visited was not far from town, and some of the young people (male) who hired themeselves to us as local guides had good English and high ambitions. My young guide wanted to become a doctor; an aim I had difficultly reconciling the simplicity (poverty?) of the surrounds he was living in. He was still in High School, and with luck, might be eligeable for a scholarship, but his ability to study was completely restricted to ‘town’ where he had limited access to electric light and internet.
These tribal communities face an ongoing struggle to try to maintain traditional values, and at the same time bridge the huge divides between ‘our world’ and theirs.
Outside a Daasanach House
Daasanach houses are made from a frame of branches, covered with hides, woven boxes, and corrugated iron. Clothing is simple (or absent), but many of the men sport perky hats. Goats in the Kraal With the Headman
I don’t usually include photos of myself, but it is not everyday you get to pose with the village headman and a portion of his gaggle of children! (iPhone6) Headman with some Children
I never managed to establish how many children this man actually has! Men typically have more than one wife, making for large families. Headman
We were an entertaining novelty in the village, … Woman with a Shovel
… but work must go on. Daasanach Girl
This young girl is on the brink of womanhood. In this tribe, that means she has already been circumcised (which happens between age 10 and 12) … Complex Daasanach Hair Stylings and Back Scarring
… and will be married before too long (around 17). Daasanach Man and Child
The Daasanach are a tall, slender people, and the men seem to be all limbs when they squat on their wooden stools/headrests. Portrait of a Young Daasanach Man
Men and women both love their beaded jewellery. Headdress of a Daasanach Man
Some of the men dress their hair with coloured clay and feathers, … Daasanach Man in a Hat
… while others prefer funky hats. Daasanach Men
There is a casual mix of traditional and modern in the men’s clothing. Making Patties
The wooden stools are reserved for the men; women sit with their cloth (or leather) skirts directly on the packed dirt. Making Patties
Most of the women I see are busy at work. Daasanach Man on his Traditional Wooden Seat
The carved wooden seats are almost invisible against the sandy-coloured dirt. I was told that this man’s shoulder- and chest-scarring represented his accomplishments in inter-tribal warfare, … Daasanach Warrior
… although his back-scars looked the same to me as those I had seen on many of the villagers. Daasanach Girls
I lost count of the number of young girls I met in the kraal; … Daasanach Girl
… they all seemed very self-possessed, and not at all shy in our presence. Girls with Water Containers
When I spotted three girls bringing the water in for their families, I was a bit slow with the camera. They happily repeated their walk for me. Woman with a Goat
Meanwhile, unprompted, a woman sits outside a hut with one of her goats. Man Reclining
The men all have their wooden stools/pillows. Personally, I don’t think this looks remotely comfortable, but it is how the men rest, especially if they are out with their animals. Boy Milking a Goat
Daasanach rely on their goats and cattle – especially in dry season when the crops aren’t growing. Plastic bottles are highly valued, and used for milk and other liquids. Afternoon Light over a Daasanach Compound Men Chatting
All the men carry their headrests around as they go about their business. Woman Grinding Grain
The women are very efficient with their grinding stones. Woman in the Smoke
Once the animals are all in the corral, fires are lit. I was told this keeps away bad spirits… Kids in the Smoke
… and mosquitos. Women on the Horizon
When you have no electricity, evening falls quickly. It was dark. It was time to return to our modest accommodation – complete with running water, electricity, and patchy wifi.
Back in my room, reflecting on my own education and advantages, I couldn’t help but wonder what the future holds for the smart young people in these traditional villages.
I wish them well.
‘Till next time,
Responsible travels!
Pictures: 18October2018
Posted in Africa,environmental portrait,Ethiopia,TravelTags: Daasanach,Daasanach Village,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Ethiopia,Omo Valley,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,tribal life,Ursula Wall
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Namaste Ursula, another nice photo series, it all seems so long ago!
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for looking in! It was, indeed, a long time ago and far away… I do wonder if we will ever be allowed to travel again!
I hope you are staying out of the hot-spots.
Cheers!