Basílica y Convento de San Francisco The Historic Centre of Lima has a view and a story around every corner and through every window. The iconic and much-photographed cloister windows at the San Francisco Monastery are an example.
The only travel I can do at the moment is vicariously: with our government giving us no clue as to when borders might open again, it is impossible to plan and it is hard to even dream …
I am trying to use this down-time productively: cleaning out boxes and drawers and cupboards. But, I’m not very successful; I keep finding things that send me down rabbit warrens of memories.
The other day, I came across trip notes and maps from a long-ago trip to South America. Well, to be more accurate, from Argentina (see: Perito Moreno and El Chaltén) and Peru. South America is a big place! Naturally, the trip notes beckoned me into a hunt for some almost-forgotten photos: taken in rough JPEG formats on non-SLR cameras, and stored on an old computer that takes thirty minutes to fire up and shut down again.
My husband and I had three short stays in Lima: before and after walking the Inca Trail, and again after a trip to the head of the Amazon (more on those travels some other day), and were based each time at a charming hotel in the beautiful coastal suburb of Miraflorés.
Being 12 degrees off the equator, Lima is in a tropical, but dry, climate zone, getting almost no rain. It is also surprisingly cool, benefiting from something called the Humboldt Current – cold, low salinity waters that flow north from Antarctica towards the equator. This gives Lima in general, and Miraflores in particular, almost constant misty fog from the Pacific Ocean, resulting in enough humidity to keep the skies grey and the gardens green.
On our first visit we enjoyed a city tour. The influence of the previous Spanish colonial masters is still much evident in the Moorish architecture, particularly in the city centre, or Plaza de Armas, which is a UNESCO-listed heritage site. Originally known to the Spaniards as the “Ciudad de los Reyes” (City of Kings), it has a strongly Catholic heritage, and many of the important buildings in the old centre are churches or monasteries. I was particularly startled by the Catacombs under the San Francisco Monastery where the bones of some 25,000 humans have been kept in brick wells since the 1700’s. In the nearby Santo Domingo Church, the heads of three Saints are preserved and on display in cases!
Our second visit was spent comfortably settled in the delightful courtyard of our hotel, sorting out photos and catching up with work.
We spent a day on the water on our third stay – visiting the islands off Puerto del Callao. The birdlife in the area was amazing: Peruvian boobies dive-bombing the water, massive pelicans cruising just above it, and turkey vultures perched atop islands waiting for dinner. At the Islas Palominas, I actually braved the freezing waters of the Peruvian Sea to swim with the sea lions. Even in a wetsuit, those waters from Antarctica are bracing! But what I remember most is the smell: there is nothing like an island that is home to guano-producing birds and fish-eating sea lions for producing stench! Even our English word “guano” comes to us via Spanish (huano) from the local indigenous Quechua language word huanu, meaning ‘dung’.
Still – it’s worth it! Do join me.
Ancient Olive Press On the short drive from the airport, we get glimpses of the rich history and heritage in the City of Kings.
Local Guide Our vivacious guide took real joy in explaining all the sights as we passed them.
Plaza De Armas De Lima The Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro established the city of Lima – and the 140-square-meter (1,500-square-foot) Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas – in 1535. Although the buildings surrounding the plaza don’t date back quite that far, they are a beautiful collaboration between “Old World” architectural styles and local craftsmanship.
History Lessons This area was an agricultural region known as Limaq to the native Peruvians. Limaq, meaning “talker” or “speaker” in the coastal Quechua language, was a famous oracle in the Rímac Valley. The Spaniards called it theCity of Kings, but this name fell into disuse. “Lima” is probably from a mispronunciation of the original name .
Fountain The fountain at the centre of the plaza dates to 1651, built under the government of Viceroy García Sarmiento de Sotomayor.
Police in the Plaza De Armas Lima has an unfortunate reputation for high rates of muggings and theft. The police presence was high.
Palacio Municipal de Lima Although this building only dates to 1939, it is modelled on the earlier civil colonial buildings with their exquisite Moorish-style window treatments.
The Nave Built between 1535 and 1649, and most recently restored in 1940, the Basilica Cathedral of Lima is ornately carved and richly gilded.
Capilla de Nuestra Señora de la Evangelizacion More simply called Lima Cathedral, the Roman Catholic cathedral features a Chapel of Our Lady.
Basilica of San Francisco The Spanish-baroque styled Saint Francis Monastery was built between 1673 and 1674.
Service from the Choir Loft Although some of the original buildings have been given over to secular uses, the temple is still a place of worship.
Cloister Windows The second-story windows around the main cloister in the San Francisco Monastery are beautiful …
Courtyard … and overlook a formal courtyard with a central fountain.
Ossuary Underground at the monastery, crypts built of bricks and mortar contain decoratively arranged human remains. Used as a burial-place until 1808, the mass graves – estimated to contain 25,000 bodies – were only rediscovered in in 1943. It is an eerie sight – somewhat spoiled by the bits of litter that have found their way onto the bone piles. I have read that photos are not allowed in the catacombs; when we visited, we were told no flash.
Different City – Different Taxi Colour It is a relief to climb out of the dusty catacombs, and back into the colourful city. I love the small differences that make cities distinctive: local taxis are one of those things that always stand out for me.
Fruit Cart – Lima
El Parque del Amor
Our hotel in Miraflores was a short walk from Love Park. This park, which is said to be inspired by the work of Spanish architect, Antoní Gaudí, opened on Valentine’s Day in 1993. The ceramic mosaics weaving along the boundaries are embedded with quotes about love from Peruvian writers.
Faro de la Marina The nearby waterfront parklands feature the still active, much-visited, La Marina Lighthouse.
Intihuatana – The Hitching Post A 2002 sculpture by Fernando de Szyszlo pays homage to indigenous Quechua sun worship. An Intihuatana is a ritual stone associated with Incan astronomic clocks or calendars. As the sculptor explained, a hitching post to catch the sun is needed to counteract Lima’s overcast skies.
Cactus and Colours Miraflores streets are colourful with adobe-style buildings and greenery.
Lighthouse Clock Tower A rare glimpse of blue sky boded well for our trip onto the cold waters off the coast of Callao.
Capitanía Guardacosta Maritima Del Callao Callao was founded by the Spanish in 1537, and is still one of Latin America’s largest commercial ports. The Coast Guard (housed in what was once the Harbour Master headquarters) oversees maritime traffic.
Islas Palomino Our trip to the Palomino Islands is a short ride into the Humbolt Current, past small fishing boats, past the large Isla San Lorenzo and several smaller islands, and past flights of fishing birds. It is hard to pinpoint which hits you first: the smell or the noise! Countless screeching birds compete against the sound of the waves crashing, and the bellowing barks of as many as eight-thousand sea lions.
Swimming with the Sea Lions Our guide and I were the only ones to brave the freezing waters. Truthfully, I was a bit nervous: even a female South American sea lion can grow to 2 m (7 ft) and around 150 kg (330 lb). Their fishy breath alone is enough to knock you over! The males (who didn’t come out to meet us) are twice that size.
Peruvian Folk Dance Vibrance and bold tones colour local folk dance. This one goes back to Black traditions: the Conquistadores brought many African slaves with them.
Peruvian Folk Dance In spite of colonialism, the Inca heritage runs deep through Peruvian culture, and comes to life in the distinctive woven and embroidered fabrics.
Night Lights on Cathedral of Lima
One of the many high-points of our visit was the food: every meal we had was a winner. The locally-grown olives were wonderful, and even though I’m not a fish lover, the ceviche – raw fish marinated in piquant spices and lime – was a taste treat. My favourite, though, were the ‘world famous’ pisco sours, made from pisco (locally produced grape brandy), lime juice, egg white and bitters.
Mindima Firemaking Group The tribes of the Papuan New Guinea Highlands are a diverse lot – with numerous different languages and cultural expressions.
Papua New Guinea is a remote and rugged country that was untouched by foreign influences for a very long time. Its jungle-clad mountains and wild river valleys are home to one of the most culturally and linguistically diverse populations in the world. For a long time, outsiders thought the Highlands region was unpopulated, and international missionaries, mining interests, and anthropologists made almost no inroads into the interior until well into the 20th century.
Almost 40% of Papua New Guinea’s 7 million people (July 2020 est.) live below the poverty line. Although agriculture still provides a subsistence livelihood for 75% of the population, it is considered to be one of the poorest countries in the Asia Pacific region. Nearly two-thirds of the county’s export earnings come from mineral deposits developed since the 1970s, but the resultant economic boom has not trickled down into local communities.
So, the growing tourism and hospitality sector provides some hope for distinctive tribal communities who want to preserve their cultural heritage into the future while gaining access to economic boons.
Sing sings, gatherings of neighbouring Papua New Guinean tribes or villages to share their distinct culture, dance, and music, have long been a feature in the country, and have resulted in a welcome mitigation of traditional inter-tribal warfare. In recent years, these festivals have been more actively marketed to tourists, contributing to local income and an ongoing pride in culture and heritage.
But, this is not without its own difficulties: some of the more distinctive and popular groups are, in effect, fighting a “trademark” battle over their own traditional costumes. The image of the Asaro mudmen from the Eastern Highlands Province, for example, has often been used in advertising and popular culture without the consent of the originating community. And, much to the dismay of Asaro families, in the neighbouring Simbu (Chimbu) Province, mudmen designed there have been incorporated into local tourist demonstrations (see: The Asaro Mudmen: Local Property, Public Culture?). The Chimbu, or Simbu, are credited with originating the zombie-like skeleton men (see: Skeleton Men) – but these unique creations have also migrated outside the region of their origins, and taken on new forms.
For the outsider, it is a minefield! Some tourism operators do warn that, with the lure of money, some groups might perform ceremonies “not traditional to their tribal group or … [not] at the traditional time of year.” But, even with responsible operators, visitors can get caught up in local disputes. I have personally been contacted by someone who said the mudmen whose photos I shared previously (see: Asaro Mudmen), were not entitled to the representation; I referred him back to my local contact, as I’m in no position to judge!
In spite of the Highlands being a field-study goldmine for burgeoning anthropologists all through the 20th century (including for one of my favourite tutors back at university), I have found getting any in-depth information on-line about individual tribes difficult. (I found one lengthy and not particularly helpful monograph written by a Lutheran minister who lived and worked in Simbu Province for 40-odd years – but little else.) Even when I have looked up the sing sing group names as written on the cardboard signboards, I have found little or no information. Plenty of poorly-captioned pictures exist, and tourist-operator blurbs saying: “Little is known about …”, referring to this tribe or that. Different variations of custom-origin stories get cut-and-pasted from one site to the next, but with the dearth of substantial information, it is no surprise that cultural appropriation takes place in a land where open tribal warfare still exists.
So, although I was at the Mount Hagen Cultural Show, one of Papua New Guinea’s most popular cultural events, with photographerKarl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, and with the guidance of a well-credentialed local operator, I can’t speak to the bonafides of the tribal people I met and photographed. Nor can I tell you much about the “why” of most of their particular customs and festival attire.
I can, however, share a wonderful glimpse into a unique tribal world of fiercely guarded, proud traditions.
Join me!
Skeleton in the Smoke Outside the Kagamuga Showgrounds, Chimbu people from Simbu Province get ready for their parts as skeletons and fire-makers.
Simbu/Chimbu Woman It is not uncommon for women to have small facial tattoos, and to wear their net bilum bags on their heads; …
Simbu Woman … it is also not uncommon to see warm smiles, stained by the ubiquitous betel nut.
Painting the Skeleton I have shared a story of the origins of skeleton-men and pictures of their preparation before (see: Bugamo Skeleton Men).
Man Painting a Young Skeleton Body-painting for the sing sing takes a lot of time and patience.
Skeleton Skull I loved watching the quiet stoicism displayed by the youngsters …
Eyes of the Skeleton … as they submitted to the long task of sing sing preparation.
Painting Skeleton Hands
Skeleton Boy Everyone is at a different stage of readiness.
Skeleton Preparations I saw no female skeletons – and I don’t believe they exist – but I did see women assisting with the painting.
Mindima Firemakers This man, from the same group, tried to explain to me the relationship between the skeletons and the fire-makers, but my tok pisin was not up to understanding his story. I did get the part where he explained how careful one had to be with the fire-pot-headdress, so as not to burn oneself!
Mindima Firemaker The evidence of a lifetime of betel-nut chewing is everywhere; …
Betel-Nut Sellers … betel nuts, seeds of the areca palm, are also everywhere. This man was hoping I’d have a cigarette for him! Tobacco is as popular as betel chew.
Police Special Services Division As the competing tribes get ready for the festival, the police presence is conspicuous and well armed – but friendly.
Crafting a Mud Mask In another quadrant of the paddock, a man fashions a ferocious mud mask.
Mud Mask Although there are various explanations for the origins of these frightening – but hot and cumbersome – headdresses, the most convincing one relates to the pre-colonial custom of disguising oneself when conducting raids against neighbouring tribes to prevent being recognised and thus making retaliation impossible.
Little Mudmen Today, small versions are made to be sold as souvenirs.
Model Masks Like the real masks – which are often embedded with boars’ teeth – the grotesque models show a lot of variety.
Final Preparations Once their bodies are coated in mud and their masks are on, the men are ready to head to the parade ground – …
Asaro Mud Men … – pausing briefly to have their pictures taken.
Omo Masalai from Simbu Looking like something from The Walking Dead, and followed by some sort of fur-covered demon, members of one group march toward the fair grounds.
Omo Masala Skeletons Skeletons follow closely behind.
Mindima Firemaking In contrast with the skeletons, the firemakers feature stripes instead of bones, making me think of men in old-fashioned prison garb.
Nursing the Flames The next day I went back to the same area to see if I could get a better explanation of the Mindima firemaking.
Concentration I found no one to speak with: these people are among the 120,000 native-Kuman speakers, and may or may not have Tok Pisin as a second language. English is well down the list!
Mindima Child Making Fire So, I cannot tell you why these people transport fire on their heads.
Skeletons in the Grass Meanwhile, another group of skeleton men are ready to take their place on the parade grounds, …
Skeletons on the Warpath … where, rather than being zombie-like, …
Skeletons on the Attack … they leap around in a menacing manner.
It is easy to see how these warring tribes were able to intimidate each other in the past.
At least today it is mostly in good humour and for show.
Rapperswil Rose Garden and Altstadt From the Lindenhof – the Linden Courtyard, a public square on a a moraine hill above Rapperswil – we get views down over the wine-grape terraces to the famous rose gardens. The rooftops of the Old City almost obscure Lake Zurich, which sits between us and the surrounding mountains.
Travel in Europe is such a joy!
Everywhere you go, there are beautifully-maintained, fresh and green outdoor public spaces, and well-preserved and integrated historical buildings.
Take Rapperswil on Lake Zurich in Switzerland, for example. Part of the municipality of Rapperswil-Jona, this is a town I probably would never have heard of, had we not been staying with friends who live there! While it may not be at the top of the Swiss “must visit” list, there was still plenty to do and see, both in the town and nearby (e.g.: Weekly Wanders: Around Lake Zurich).
An early-August Sunday brought rains, but we went ahead with our scheduled lunch cruise on nearby Lake Zug, knowing that the boat had plenty of cover. We chose to amend our afternoon outdoor plans, and instead, stopped in to see the Black Madonna (no photos allowed!) in the Kloster Einsiedeln, an expansive Baroque building housing a Benedictine Monastery on a site dating back to 934.
The next day dawned clear and sunny: perfect for a short walk up nearby Bachtel Mountain (1,115 m) to climb the Bachtelturm, a 60 m tall radio tower affording views across the Zürcher Oberland, and then to enjoy lunch nearby.
After lunch on the mountain, we returned to Rapperswil to explore the historic Altstadt (Old City). Rapperswil is called the “Town of Roses” (Rosenstadt) for the flowers on the city crest, but it also takes enormous pride in the three designated rose gardens that are open to the public; August is the perfect month to appreciate the vast array of varieties.
Join me for some lesser-known Swiss sites:
Rainy Reflections on Lake Zug The weather might have been disappointing, but I love the layered reflections you can get in low light. (iPhone5)
“Golden Lady Fountain” I was lucky to have my umbrella-holder with me: the rains came down as I tried to get an angle I liked on the ornate golden statue of the Madonna in front of the Baroque Einsiedeln Abbey.
Golden Crown No photos are allowed inside, so you have to imagine the elaborately dressed Black Madonna in her Chapel of Grace – or look up a stock photo. The current statue – one of about 400–500 Black Madonnas in Europe – was brought to Einsiedeln in 1466. Her colour is said to be from years of candle smoke.
Einsiedeln Abbey The abbey complex is huge, and houses a monastic community, an extensive library, and even a stables. It is still an important pilgrimage stop on the Way of St. James.
Signposts The weather was a beautiful contrast the next day – perfect for starting a hike to one of the many designated points in the surrounding Swiss Alps.
Dogs on the Hill There were plenty of companion animals out waiting for their owners in the fresh air.
View from Bachtelturm Bachtel Tower is a 60 m (200 ft) tall radio tower. The viewing platform half-way up yields panoramic views over the countryside.
Shingled Rooftops Early afternoon back in Rapperswil, we enjoy more wonderful views: this time over the old city from the Lindenhof– the Linden Courtyard.
Linden Leaves A native to Europe, the linden tree is highly valued in folk medicine. Its flowers, leaves, and bark are all used in herbal infusions.
Lindenhof These beautiful spreading deciduous trees give this vantage point over Rapperswil its name: the Linden Courtyard.
Down through the Vines Steep staircases lead down from the courtyard through the grapes to the rose garden below.
Old World Ivy
Angel Watching over Fallen Brothers Part of the way down the hill, the Capuchin Friary, established in 1606, sits overlooking Lake Zurich.
Antoniusgrotte – St. Anthony’s Grotto Votive candles are the only light inside the grotto dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua.
Rapperswil Roses Along with the grotto, the rose gardens of the Kapuzinerkloster – the Capuchin Monastery – are a popular pilgrimage destination.
Trellises – Rosengarten From the rose gardens, we can look back up over the vines to the towers of the Rapperswil Castle.
House Front : Hintergasse
Hauptplatz to the Castle Clock Tower The old streets up to the castle are charming.
“Swiss Cheese” The Stadtmuseum (City Museum) Rapperswil-Jona is located across three medieval buildings dating back to 1492 and joined together with an extension called “Janus”. The modern space, completed in 2011, makes me think of player pianos and Swiss cheese.
The thought of Swiss cheese made me hungry. It was definitely time for afternoon coffee!
And, as is the case in most parts of Europe, the coffee shops were ready with their fragrant brews to revive us.
[…] WaterfrontWe, however, are crossing the lake the long way: by boat. On the harbour, we get a lovely view of the ships in the port, the beautiful old buildings dating back to the 1200s, and the castle at the top of the hill that we walked around on another day (see: The Roses of Rapperswil). […]ReplyCancel
Kara Man in Face Paint The Kara in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley love their jewellery and body art. Men have their left ears notched after initiation and wear special clay caps when they have killed a dangerous animal or an enemy from another tribe.
With about 1400 individuals living across three villages, the Kara are the smallest discrete ethnic group in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley.
They are closely related to the Benna-Bashada-Hamar group and share many linguistic features and cultural practices with these tribes. For example, their young men take part in the Bula, or Pilla, or Bull-jumping ceremony: jumping over the backs of a row of cattle several times in a row to mark their coming of age (see: Coming of Age in a Hamar Village). The women’s skirts and hairstyles resemble those of the Hamar, and the men in both tribes use clay to construct their elaborate headdresses to signify their status, attractiveness, and bravery.
Some stories say that at one time the Kara were connected with the Hamar, but the two tribes migrated in different directions: the Hamar – whom the Kara call “mountain dwellers” – moved up onto the hills in search of better lands and pastures, and the Kara moved downstream towards the Omo River; Kara means “fish” in the local language. The two groups maintain a symbiotic trade relationship.
This is not the case with the more aggressive and more numerous Nilo-Saharan speaking Nyangatom who live on the other side of the river – on lands the Kara say were once theirs. Inter-generational tribal conflicts have continued for decades, and include cattle rustling and bloody battles. Every self-respecting Kara man owns an AK-47.
The Kara are probably best known for their decorative face- and body-painting in chalk and ochre. I’ve shared some pictures of the tribal and their remote village before (see: Visits to a Kara Village).
Come meet a few more of these fascinating people!
Grass Shelter on the Omo Dus Village, the largest of the three Kara villages, sits on the east bank of the beautiful Omo River Valley.
Elder and the Ceremony House Only initiated men are allowed into this open structure where the men discuss tribal matters and make community decisions.
Old Man in Silhouette
Young Man in Profile
Warrior in Feathers and Beads The clay skullcaps that the men wear attached to their hair can take up to three days to construct and need to be replaced after three-to-six months. The men are allowed to wear them for up to a year after a kill to celebrate their bravery.
Men in Body Paint I’ve posted a similar picture of these men previously (Visits to a Kara Village) because I like how they show the contrasting styles of body-patterns in use.
Almost Abstract : Body Paint The Kara paint themselves daily, building up their preferred design in white chalk, coloured ochre, yellow mineral rock, charcoal, and/or pulverised iron ore.
Time and Focus Men and women alike love layers of beads. I didn’t see any mirrors: …
Young Women Face Painting … I did see a lot of people painting each other.
Bottom Lip Incision It is not uncommon for Kara women, men, and even children, to wear a nail, a stick, or a piece of grass sticking out of their chin through an incision made under their bottom lip.
Spurting Liquid It is also not uncommon to see people expelling liquid through this incision.
Dus Woman with a Gourd Calabash gourds are common utensils in the village.
Woman Preparing Sorghum Women and children sit in the dirt, going about their daily chores.
Hand in the Sorghum Kara are primarily an agriculture-based society, growing sorghum, corn, pumpkin, and beans – some of which they trade with the Hamar.
Hands in the Sorghum Sorghum is a versatile grain, and is a dietary staple for the Kara.
Woman and Child Sorghum is cooked into the daily porridge, using milk or water. It is also fermented to produce the local beer.
Still Life Found : Clay Pots on the Ground
Men in Red All over the world, young men love their sporting gear.
Smiling Ethiopian Man That smile! And those distinctive Ethiopian curls.
Women and Children All around the village, women and their children gather in groups.
Boys outside the Bar Meanwhile, a group of young men is gathered with their beers outside one of the community buildings. It is barely seven thirty in the morning!
Still Life Found : Bowl and Bales
Mother and Child Flowers and grass are inserted into lip and ears, …
Woman with Flowers … or tucked into headbands.
Warrior Ostrich feathers are a finishing touch to the warriors’ clay skullcaps.
Elegant Woman in a Hut How I wished I could have had a proper conversation with some of these women! (Off-Camera Flash)
Mother and Infant in a Hut The huts are hot and dark, even in the mid-morning, and there is not much in the way of “belongings” inside. (Off-Camera Flash)
Young Woman in a Hut This is another face I’ve shared before (Visits to a Kara Village): I just loved her solemn expression. (Off-Camera Flash)
Woman in Spots There is a cheeky flirtatiousness in some of these expressions; I can’t help but wonder what these women think as they meet our gaze.
As the smallest tribal group, the Kara have learned to negotiate trade – and peaceful co-existence – with their more-numerous neighbours.
They are also trading with us: marketing their unique appearance for small handfuls of tourist dollars.
I can’t help but wonder how much of their cultural heritage they can preserve into the future.
And, I wonder what they actually think about it all!
[…] Our camp was close to Dus Village, the largest of three Kara villages in Ethiopia; the majority of Kara people live in South Sudan or the Central African Republic. Some of the villagers helped around the camp, or sat in the shade, engaging in their beading or face- and body-painting. This added to my feeling of being in the middle of things. Our location also meant we were able to visit the village a number of times, and therefore could spend time with the locals as they went about their daily lives (see: Visits to a Kara Village and The Kara of Dus Village). […]ReplyCancel
[…] side of the Omo River – on lands the Kara say were once theirs. As I have written before (see: The Kara of Dus Village), inter-tribal conflicts have continued for generations. Men need to show their ability to […]ReplyCancel
Oil Lamps and a Peacock Feather On the night of the Māgha Pūjā full moon, a Tibetan monk and a Buddhist devotee light oil lamps against the darkness over Boudha Stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Candlelight is a powerful symbol in many spiritual practices around the world.
In Christianity, the candle stands for light and the spirit of truth in the darkness of life; in Hinduism, light is a strong symbol of hope and prosperity; in Buddhism, burning candles evoke the state of impermanence and change, and represent the enlightenment of the Buddha. In some meditation practices, candle flames are used to focus attention and quiet the mind.
Candlelight is calming by its very nature. Even in secular communities, candles are lit to set an atmosphere of quiet. I always think of them this time of year as I contemplate life, while one calendar year slips into the next.
Some years ago, I was in Nepal as part of a photographic group with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz. Our principal accommodation was within a short walk of the UNESCO-listedBoudhanath (or BouddhaStupa), one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. I took the opportunity to visit this magnificent place many times during my stay (e.g.: Prayers in the Eyes of the Buddha and Light a Candle) and never ceased to marvel at it – or at the devotion of the many pilgrims who visited at all hours of the day and night.
Our trip to Nepal was timed to take in Holi, the joyful Hindu festival of colours, which takes place on the full-moon evening of the month of Phalguna or Phalgun on the Hindu calendar (see: Joy among the Ruins).
Full moons are celebrated across many religious traditions, and that particular full moon also marked Māgha Pūjā, the second most important festival on the Theravada Buddhist calendar, and Chötrul Düchen, one of the four major observances on the Tibetan Buddhist calendar. In both cases, the dates are said to correspond with significant events in the life of the Buddha, and the rituals involve the lighting of lamps.
So, naturally, Buddhist pilgrims had come from all over to circumambulate the sacred stupa, pay their respects, offer up prayers, and light oil lamps – all under the watchful eyes of Boudhanath.
Join me in some quiet reflection as we end a year that has been extremely challenging for most of us.
Boudhanath in the Last Sun The eyes of the Boudha Stupa are watchful as the narrow laneways darken in the afternoon light.
Filling Oil Lamps In the approach to the temple entrance, trestle tables are full of burning lamps that people have lit on their way in.
Lamp Seller People are happy to take a moment out to smile for the visitors.
Tending the Oil Lamps The attendants keep an eye on the process, moving spent lamps for refilling.
Prayers Once you light your lamp, you can make your prayers – for yourself or for others.
Crowd around the Stupa In the early evening, the grounds are already crowded. Pilgrims to the stupa typically circumambulate clockwise three times while praying and chanting. Each circuit is roughly 150 metres (164 yards).
Bonfire Sparks fly from a bonfire outside one of the side temples.
Profile in Candle Light Although candle light plays havoc with camera settings, I love the soft glow is casts on people’s faces.
Two Women in Candle Light
Lights on the Stupa As darkness envelopes us, the lights come on around the 36 metre-high (118 ft) stupa.
Woman Lighting Lamps There is a steady hum of noise from the chanting pilgrims around the stupa, but the mood is quiet.
Couple Lighting Lamps
Dad Lighting Lamps Everyone is warmly dressed against the cold of an early spring night.
Friends around the Flames
Buddhist Monk Lighting Candles
Candlelit Smile No one seems remotely disturbed by the presence of me and my cameras.
A Peacock Feather in the Oil The peacock represents purity and long life or immortality in Buddhism. The feathers are often used in purification ceremonies.
Lighting Lamps
Lights in his Eyes
Namaste Prayers
The Eyes of the Bouddha There is soft illumination on the stupa, putting a mesmerising glow in those iconic eyes.
Meeting the Monk A woman namastes one of the many monks in the surrounds. After living in Thailand for so long, I don’t pass one without doing the same.
Boudhanath under Lights The stupa is quite beautiful with its coloured garlands and soft floodlights …
Full Moon over Boudhanath … and the Māgha Pūjā moon rises in the background.
This year’s December full moon has just passed, and January 2021 is upon us. May you light a candle against the darkness –
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
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Very tasty!
