Portrait: Kara Youth in white and black beads, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Youth in Beads
Although the Kara people of the Lower Omo Valley love their face and body paint, one of my favourite pictures from their village is this one of a clean-skinned youth, free of clay paint and ritual scarring.

Ethiopia is a big country: at 1,104,300 sq km, it is number 28 in the world in terms of area. And, it remains – despite recent progress in alleviating extreme poverty – one of the poorest countries in the world (CIA World Factbook).

So, local infrastructure is not what it might be, and the country is not particularly easy to get around!

This inaccessibility has to be a help to the 16+ distinctive ethnic groups who live in the far reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley. I was there on a Piper Mackay photographic tour with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the tutelage of photographer Ben McRae. We had taken a short flight into the Great Rift Valley from Addis Ababa some days before, and had visited the Dorze people (see: Roadside and Village Portraits) before overnighting in Arba Minch. From there, we enjoyed the scenic drive south into the beautiful Omo Valley, where our base was in Turmi. Over the next days, we visited Hamar (e.g.: Visit to a Hamar Village, Face in a Hamar Village; Hamar Village Portraits; and Morning Portraits), Daasanach (see: A Visit to the Daasanach) and Arbore (e.g.: Portraits in an Arbore Village; and Arbore Village Portraits) villages.

What continued to amaze me was how distinctive each of these groups was!

On our sixth day in the country, we hopped into four-wheel drives after breakfast, and drove north again, deep into the heart of Kara (Karo) territory. A beautiful, fully equipped campsite had been set up for us (Grand Holidays Ethiopia) in shady forested clearing along the Omo River, not far from Dus Village. This gave us unique access to the Kara people, Ethiopia’s smallest ethnic group, but possibly one of the most popular. They are well known for their decorative face- and body-painting in chalk and ochre.

There are about 100,000 members of the Kara ethnic group, but most live in South Sudan or the Central African Republic. In Ethiopia, there are only about 1400, living across three villages on the left bank of the Omo River. As speakers of an Omotic language, they are loosely affiliated with the Hamar people; this puts them at odd with the more aggressive and more numerous Nilo-Saharan-speaking Nyangatom who live on the other side of the river.

Join me on an excursion into Kara territory.

Portrait: Ethiopian woman in cornrows, Buska Lodge, Turmi

Worker – Buska Lodge
After breakfast in Turmi, we farewell the staff there and hit the road. (iPhone6)

Dirt road, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples

Driving Ethiopian Roads
The roads on the east side of the Omo River into Kara territory are dirt tracks …

Dusty car driving into the jungle, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples

Dusty Tracks
… that lead into the jungle. At one point we had to stop and remove fallen trees before we could pass.

Mobile tent camp outside Dus Village, Ethiopia

Dus Mobile Camp
After a challenging drive, it was lovely arriving at our beautiful campsite, which was set up and ready for us in a shady clearing in the forest along the Omo River in the heart of Kara land.

Inside a large tent, outside Dus Village, Ethiopia

Home Away from Home
My tent in the Dus Camp was airy and spacious.

Rain clouds over Dus Kara Village, Ethiopia

Dus Kara Village
When we drove to the nearby Kara village in the afternoon, the rains came …

Villagers in clay paint crowded onto a building porch, Dus Ethiopia

Escaping the Rain
… and the locals huddled under the eaves of a community building to protect their face- and body-paint. Kara people enjoy decorating their bodies and faces daily with coloured ochre, white chalk, yellow mineral rock, charcoal, and pulverised iron ore.

Kara man in clay paint on a building porch, Dus Ethiopia

Kara Man
Kara men paint their faces and bodies in white chalk on special occasions. A brief gap in the rain allows a natural-light shot of a man in his ceremonial paint.

Kara village in the open plains, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Kara Village
The rains have made little impression on the dry landscape. Although all the homes are the traditional conical huts (ono) we saw on entering the village, there are a few more modern buildings scattered around, …

A simple schoolhouse, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Looking into the Schoolhouse
… including a simple schoolhouse.

Looking out through the Schoolhouse Windows, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Looking out through the Schoolhouse Windows
With the weather being so chancy, we take shelter in the school and set up a a black cloth and a soft-box lighting system to take some “studio” shots of the youngsters who have gone to so much trouble with their body art.

Portrait against black: painted Kara girl in red and yellow beads, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Kara Girl
Men, women, boys, and girls, all engage in creating and wearing symbolic and artistic body and/or face decorations.

Composite portrait: two painted Kara children, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Painted Children
The decorations can be elaborate and detailed, or rough, but striking paintings traced with the palms or fingers.

Portrait against black: painted Kara girl in red and yellow beads, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Kara Youth in Beads and Paint
The patterns can change daily, and there is a vast lexicon of painting motifs to choose from.

Composite portrait: two painted Kara children, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Face Paint and Beads
Even so, some common themes emerge.

Early morning landscape, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Dawn in the Dus Village
We returned to the village early the next morning to learn more about the Kara and their customs.

Ceremony House, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Ceremony House
Only initiated men are allowed into this structure – in fact, only initiated men …

Portrait: Kara man face paint and ostrich feather, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Kara Elder in his Ostrich Feather
… like this elder, are even allowed to touch it! A friendly, but watchful, eye was kept on us, lest we got too close.

Kara man, two women and babies, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Kara Family

Portrait: Two Kara men face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Men in Body Paint
With these men side by side, you can see the different body paint patterns in use.

Portrait: Kara man face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Man in Face Paint
The notch in the man’s left ear was given to him after initiation to symbolise his ability to listen to tribal secrets.

Portrait: Kara woman in face paint and flowers, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Woman with Flowers
Men and women make an incision below their bottom lip and often insert straw or wood – or in this case flowers – into it.

Portrait: young Kara woman in beads and face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Pensive Young Woman

Portrait: Kara man with an AK47 in a Skull Cap and face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Automatic and a Skull Cap
Kara share many similarities with their Hamar cousins. Men who have killed an enemy from another tribe or a dangerous animal are entitled to wear an ochre clay cap with an ostrich feather. All men need to own an AK47 before they marry, so they can prove their ability to protect their village and herds.

Portrait: Young Kara woman in a hut, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Young Woman in a Hut
The huts are hot and dark, even mid-morning. With a helper and an off-camera flash, I manage a few shots of this solemn young woman before we all have to get outside where it is slightly cooler.

The Kara are a beautiful and fascinating people – fortunately, with our tents set up so close, we were able to return to this village several times.

In this era of being confined within my own borders, I look forward to reviewing more of my photos from these visits.

Text: Keep smilingUntil then,

Keep Smiling!

Photos: 19-20October2018

Headless torso of a pharaoh holding two anks, Karnak Egypt

Headless Pharaoh
Holding tightly to a pair of ankhs, or the keys of life, a headless statue stands tall in the Karnak temple complex near Luxor, Egypt.

So much of Ancient Egypt was about one’s relationship to the Gods and the afterlife. And, so much art and architecture dedicated to these relationships remains to be explored today.

From the mind-blowing pyramids at Giza (see: Stories in Ancient Stone) to the amazing tombs in the Valley of the Kings (see: The Writing on the Walls, and Take me to the Afterlife) and the stunningly beautiful mortuary temple for Hatshepsut (see: The Queen who would be Pharaoh), every hieroglyph, every statue, and every wall and column says something about the Egyptians’ complex belief system about immortality.

Nowhere is this more in evidence than at Karnak, a temple complex on the east bank of the Nile River, just 2.5 km north of Luxor. Part of the UNESCO-listed “Ancient Thebes with its Necropolis”, this crumbling collection of temples, chapels, pylons, and other buildings, stretches over two square kilometres, forming the largest temple complex in Egypt and one of the largest in the world. The Temple of Amun-Ra at the heart of the Karnak complex vies with Angkor Wat in Cambodia for position as the largest single religious building in the world.

Added to and altered for well over a thousand years, the site has been called a great historical document in stone. From the beginning of the Middle Kingdom (2040 – 1782 BCE), through the New Kingdom (1570 – 1069 BCE) and into the Ptolemaic Dynasty (323 – 30 BCE), successive Egyptian rulers affixed their own architectural stamps to the complex, defacing the contributions of their predecessors and building over ruins of monuments in honour of the God Amun-Ra thought to date to the Old Kingdom (c. 2613 – c. 2181 BCE). Even Alexander the Great left his mark here, decorating an inner chapel.

The temples are principally dedicated to the Theban god-triad: Amun, the father-god, god of the sun; Mut, mother-goddess and god of ‘everything’ in the world; and Khonsu, lunar child-god, god of the moon.

Join me for a wander around this extraordinary complex:

Luxor on the Nile, Egypt

Morning on the Nile
Staying on a boat on the Nile made me feel like I was in the middle of an Agatha Christie novel. (iPhone6)

Model of Karnak, Karnak Temple Complex, Egypt

Model of Karnak
At the entry to the extensive Karnak Temple Complex, visitors get a chance to appreciate an overview.

Tourists walking to and from the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Entering Karnak
The First Pylon, a monumental gateway of tapering towers leading into the temple complex, was the last pylon to be built at Karnak, and was never finished and decorated.

Criosphinxes and the walkway to the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Rams at the Entrance to Karnak
The entry to Karnak is flanked by criosphinxes, sphinxes with the bodies of lions and the heads of rams. The god Amun is depicted as having the head of a ram with curved horns.

Criosphinx, Karnak Egypt

Criosphinx
Weathered and worn, each criosphinx protects a small figures of a Pharaoh – thought by most to be Ramses II – in the pose of Osiris.

Criosphinxes and the walkway to the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Phalanx of Criosphinxes
The row of ram-headed sphinxes leads the eyes to one of the obelisks on the site.

Tourists walking to and from the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Sun through the Gates
It is nine o’clock in the morning. It seems only fitting that the sun should greet us as we enter the first gate into a temple dedicated to the sun god.

Sparrow in a wall of heavy bricks, Karnak Egypt

Sparrow in the Wall

Tourists in the First Court, Karnak

The First Court
Once we are through the massive pylon, the space opens out.

Tourist in the entry to the Barque Shrines of Seti II, Karnak Egypt

Barque Shrines of Seti II
Barque stations or shrines were resting places for the statues of the gods when they were journeying outside the temple during festival processions. The First Court houses the shrines of Seti II and Ramses III. I liked leaving people in my pictures: it allowed me to appreciate the grand scale that even these smaller temples are built on.

Man with a broom in the First Courtyard, Karnak Egypt

Sweeper in the Courtyard
More criosphinxes grace the courtyard.

Egyptian guides in the Courtyard, Karnak

Guides in the Courtyard
When I visited, tourism was still down following the Arab Spring, and many guides hung around chatting and hoping for work. I can’t imagine how they are managing this year!

Hieroglyphs on the Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Hieroglyphs on the Pillars
Intricate detail is everywhere; it is too much to take in! The guide books recommend you visit more than once.

Tourist in a entry to a shrine, Karnak Egypt

Tourist in a Courtyard
Doorways and portals lead off in all directions.

Looking up through the Pillars of the Hypostyle Hall, Karnak Egypt

Pillars of the Hypostyle Hall
The Hypostyle Hall – literally, a great hall whose roof rests on pillars or columns – it truly amazing!

Top detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Sandstone Pillars
The 134 sandstone columns represent papyrus stalks, as they reach for the sky where the roof once was.

Detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Writing on the Pillars
At the beginning of creation, Amun arose from the waters of chaos in the primeval papyrus swamp.

Detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Hieroglyphs on the Pillars
Every square inch tells a story.

Detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Sandstone Stories
According to scholars who can actually read them, the reliefs and inscriptions in the Great Hypostyle Hall provide us with an encyclopedia of Egyptian civilisation.

Pharaoh in a nook between Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Pharaoh in the Nook

Hatshepsut

Hatshepsut’s Obelisk
Hatshepsut had two obelisks created for Karnak – this 0ne, the tallest surviving ancient obelisk on earth – still stands.

Hatshepsut

Obelisk in the Blue
An obelisk is a tall, four-sided, narrow, tapering monument which ends in a pyramid-like shape at the top. Obelisks symbolised rebirth and were used as funerary monuments. Pairs were also placed at the entrances of temples. Each obelisk was carved from a single piece of stone – typically red or rose granite from the quarries at Aswān – and then moved to its location and raised onto a base.

Detail: Hatshepsut

Hieroglyph Detail
Obelisks are carved with hieroglyphs that include religious dedications to the sun god and commemorations of the rulers – in this case Hatshepsut.

Blue hieroglyphics, Karnak Egypt

Iconography
Protected portions of the complex retain some of the original colour. These must have been brilliantly vibrant when they were fresh!

Painted iconography, Karnak Egypt

Inside Alexander’s Temple
One of the most colourful corners of the complex is the sanctuary decorated by Alexander the Great.

Visitors walking through the Akh Menou Temple, Karnak Egypt

Akh Menou Temple
Otherwise known as the Festival Hall of Thutmose III, the morning sun is already hot when we walk through the Akh Menou Temple,

Hieroglyphic light and shadow on rocks, Karnak Egypt

Patterned Shadows
… and the shadows are strong. (iPhone6)

Seated Pharaoh Thutmose III, Karnak Egypt

Seated Pharaoh
Tuthmosis III (also known as Thutmose III, 1458-1425 BCE) was the 6th king of Egypt’s 18th Dynasty. Stepson to Hatchepsut, he became a great military and was one of Egypt’s most effective rulers.

A date palm and a faceless pharaoh: it seemed a fitting last image from a temple complex with more stories than I can comprehend.

But, learning some of the history of Ancient Egypt through its sculpture, art, and architecture is an absolute joy!

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

I look forward to the days when we can explore again.

Until then,

Safe Travels!

Pictures: 08October2019

View of riverside valley forest, and surrounding mountains, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

On the River
Snow-capped mountains in the background, a forest dominated by drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees in the foreground, and mountain waters at our feet: this is the beautiful Eastern Sierras during a less fiery season.

For the last three weeks, fires have been raging across the Western States of the USA: in Oregon, California, and Washington millions of acres of land have been razed, more than 30 people have been killed, and thousands of homes have been lost.

I’ve been watching in horror as the images coming out of the conflagrations remind me of what we endured here in Australia at the beginning of this year, and may well be facing again soon.

It has also been personalised for me, as at least one friend was among the tens of thousands of people under evacuation orders in California. Fortunately for her, the winds shifted in time, her house was saved, and she and her animals were able to return to her home in the hills outside of Coleville, CA. But, the Slink Fire – last reported at 26,752 acres – was within two miles of the front door of her house: a place I once stayed.

It was mid-summer when I visited many years ago: July, which is rated as the hottest – but one of “the most pleasant months in Mono County”. The moisture from the winter snows had not yet been sucked out of this end of the Antelope Valley: the grass was green and the mountain flowers were out.

On our first day in the vicinity, we went on several short drives and medium hikes. We drove
into the Stanislaus National Forest, about an hour south of Coleville. There we hiked up into the Sonora Pass (elevation 9628 (2935 metres)) and onto a portion of the fabled Pacific Crest Trail in search of views and wildflowers. We drove back north in the late afternoon to explore some local mining history at the Golden Gate Stamp Mine, and then enjoyed evening views over the Eastern Sierras.

Fortunately for me, I was a bit fitter then than I am today: even the passes in California are higher than Australia’s tallest mountain! The Sonora Pass Pacific Crest Trail climbs 1,500 feet (457 metres) in the first two miles (3.2 km) before levelling out and traversing the flank of Leavitt Peak (11,569 ft – 3526 m), the highest mountain in the area. So, I used the wildflowers as a good excuse to stop and catch my breath!

Do join me:

Appaloosa horse in the Antelope Valley, CA USA

Appaloosa
Not far from here, there are bands of wild horses roaming in the mountains. This beauty in the lush Antelope Valley, however, is not one of those!
Side note: California has not one but three localities called “Antelope Valley”! This one, high in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, stretches from Mono County, where we are here, into neighbouring Nevada.

View over the West Walker River CA USA

View over the West Walker River
Our first stop is at a vantage point, where there are views over the farms and ranches in the Antelope Valley, and over the West Walker River as it flows towards Nevada.

Silver Lupine in flower, CA USA

Silver Lupine – Lupinus Albifrons
It is here that we are treated to our first wildflowers: the showy white-leaf bush lupine, or evergreen lupine, is native to California and Oregon.

Hairy Mule

Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss
Named for their long, hairy leaves that resemble the ears of the work animals commonly used in early mining here, hairy mule’s ears are members of the sunflower family.

Hairy Mule

Mule’s Ears on the Track
Clumps of plants find a home on the dry and rocky earth …

Pine Forest, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Pine Forest
… and the tall, straight pines stretch out around us.

Small waterfall over large boulders, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Small Waterfall
The waters that start with snow-melts high in the mountains rush down noisily over massive boulders in the many creeks.

Hiker walking into the woods, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Into the Woods
Our pathway takes up up over more boulders …

Alpine clearing, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Alpine Meadow
… and into clearings …

Lemmon

Lemmon’s Rubberweed – Hymenoxys Lemmonii
… of fallen logs and alpine flowers. Also known as Lemmon’s bitterweed, Lemmon’s rubberweed is a member of the daisy family native to the western United States.

Mountain Coyote Mint, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Mountain Coyote Mint – Monardella Odoratissima
As we walk up the Sonora Pass Trail, we find more unique wildflowers. Mountain beebalm or mountain pennyroyal is a perennial which grows in mountain forests and sagebrush scrub.

Scarlet trumpet flowers, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Skyrocket – Ipomopsis Aggregata
My favourite of the wildflowers here is a member of the phlox family commonly known as scarlet trumpet or skyrocket. Apparently it is one of the most common western wildflowers, but we didn’t see that many.

Indian Paintbrush, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja

Mules Ears on the Ridge

A man and a dog on a walking path, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

A Walker on the Track

White Prickly Poppy, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

White Prickly Poppy – Argemone Albiflora
Another of my favourites was the widely-distributed American-native bluestem prickly poppy.

Green pool in a mountain stream, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Glacial Waters
There are a number of glaciers high in these mountains, contributing rich green colours to some of the creek pools.

Post and bush on sandy ground, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Post and Bush
The eastern Sierra Nevada mountains and the Great Basin are in a rain shadow, which is largely responsible for the arid climate. Winters might be cold and wet, but summers are typically hot and dry.

Pine needles and pine cones, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Forest Floor
Pine needles and pine cones litter the ground underfoot.

Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

Golden Gate Mine
Later the same day, just a short drive out of Walker, we visited the Golden Gate Mine.

Detail: Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

Golden Gate Mine Detail
In surprisingly good condition, this stamp mill operated from 1903 to 1939.

Detail: Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

Golden Gate Stamp Mine
The ten-stamp mill pulverised the ore with a deafening noise that could be heard for miles.

Detail: Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

“Joshua Hendy Iron Works”
The Joshua Hendy Iron Works was an American engineering company that was once a world leader in mining equipment.

Initials in a poplar trunk, Walker CA USA

Leaving One’s Mark
No matter where you are in the world, you find the marks of those who have gone before!

Windswept pine trees on a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Strange Pines on the Ridge
Our last stop of the day was on a ridge nearby, …

Windswept pine trees on a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Windswept Trees
… where the cross-winds strip the trees of moisture, and the updrafts stole my favourite fedora.

Colourful craggy boulders on a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Rocks on the Ridge
Mosses and lichens colour the rocks, …

Bleached and twisted tree against a blue sky, Coleville CA USA

Nature’s Sculpture
… old trees are left like skeletons against the blue skies, …

View over the Antelope Valley from a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Overlooking the Antelope Valley
… and the views go on forever.

Text: Take only Pictures

Endless views …

… and endless walking possibilities!

Not today, unfortunately with ongoing fires and compromised air quality. I do wish our leaders would learn from the current catastrophic blazes and make some positive changes for the future!

I’m not holding my breath.

Pictures: 14July2013

  • […] How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers). […]ReplyCancel

Portrait: Indian woman in a red Ghoonghat, Haridwar.

Woman in a Red Ghoonghat
India is about colour: everywhere you look, people in colourful clothing contrast wildly with colour-washed walls and chaotic backgrounds.

India is an intensely sensory experience.

For me – a Westerner who grew up in a conservative culture of lowered voices and subdued shades in the northern prairie lands of snow and open spaces – the colours, the smells, the heat, and the press of the crowds in India can quickly lead to sensory overload. This is especially true during festival times.

But, I love it!

Here in Australia at the moment – thanks to the Novel Coronavirus – we are entering our sixth month of restricted movements, with the Australian borders closed to virtually all international travel in or out. Even our internal borders are closed, and many communities are enduring weeks of strict lockdown. All my travel plans for the the year have had to be postponed or cancelled.

So, the only way I can travel is vicariously by exploring archives of old images. What better antidote for Social Distancing than to return to pictures I took during what has been called the world’s biggest religious gathering: India’s Kumbh Mela.

The Kumbh Mela or Kumbha Mela is a major Hindu pilgrimage and festival. According to the story, back when the gods lived on the earth, they fought continuously with demons over a pot (kumbha) of amrita, the nectar or elixir of immortality. During the struggle, drops of the elixir fell on four earthly sites: Allahabad (the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna Sarasvati Rivers), Haridwar (Ganges), Nashik (Godavari), and Ujjain (Shipra). Roughly every three years, the Sun, the Moon, and Jupiter line up over one of these sites, and the associated rivers turn back into the original primordial nectar. Pilgrims bathing in the sacred waters at these auspicious times are eternally blessed by the divine, and their sins are washed away.

So, when the Hindu Holy Men calculate the propitious dates, the Hindu pilgrims come. They come from all over India. They come to bathe and pray, and they come to transport water from the sacred rivers home with them.

I – along with photographers Gavin Gough and Matt Brandon and a small group of intrepid photography enthusiasts – was one of the more than 10 million people who descended upon the ancient city of Haridwar in Uttarakhand, North India to attended the 2010 Kumbh Mela

There, amid the crush of bodies, my cameras and I revelled in the colours of the occasion.

Indian woman in colourful ghoonghats outside a shop, Haridwar.

Colours of India
Colour is everywhere: in the bright and wildly patterned saris and ghoonghats (headscarves), in the vibrantly painted walls of the old brick buildings, and in the chaotic array of goods for sale.

Detail: Shisha Mirror Embroidery, India

Shisha Mirror Embroidery
Many of the fabrics people wear are elaborately embroidered with rich threads and and small mirrors.

Portrait: Indian woman in a cream headscarf, Haridwar

Pilgrim in Cream
Even the more subdued colours are lit up by the smiles of their wearers.

Portrait: Indian woman in a Lace Trim Bordered headscarf, Haridwar

Lace Trim Border
Cotton lace edging frames faces and contrasts with the main fabric.

Detail: Hands and gold bangles of an Indian woman, Haridwar

Hands
Women carry their wealth in the gold bangles they wear. More than one woman I met thought me rather ‘poor’ because of the lack of gold jewellery on my person!

Portrait: sadhu in orange, with dreadlocked hair, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Orange
The Holy Men come in a range of colours and styles. Check out that hair!

Portrait: smiling Indian woman in purple and green headscarf, Haridwar

Colourful Scarf
Everywhere I go, I meet smiling faces and a direct gaze.

Orange bridge over the Ganges, Haridwar

Orange Bridge over the Ganges
Even the bridges across the sacred mother Ganga are brightly painted.

Sadhu walking with a stick, Haridwar India

Sadhu on the Move
Some of the pilgrims have walked for days to get here …

Portrait: smiling Indian woman in a red and green headscarf, Haridwar

Time Out
… so a break with friends is always welcome.

An Indian police officer overlooking the Kumb Mela tent village, Haridwar.

Overlooking the Camp
To handle the massive influx of humanity, a vast tented camp area has been set up. Monitoring is low-key, and performed by local police in subdued uniforms.

Lady in Red
Sheer fabrics often act as a face cover – but the gaze is still direct.

Colourful fabrics hanging on a clothesline, Haridwar India

Fresh Laundry
Saris, turbans, and ghoonghats all require metres of colourful cloth.

Portrait: Indian woman in a red bindi and headscarf, Haridwar

Women in Bindis
Red forehead dots (bindis) placed on the third eye of spiritual sight are commonly worn by married women, particularly Hindus and Jains, across the subcontinent.

Portrait: Smiling sadhu in a Tilaka, Haridwar India

Sadhu in a Tilaka
While bindis have a range of uses and meanings, tilak or tilaka are more specific, acting as a holy mark of religious affiliation. The three lines are a reminder of the various sacred triads in Hindu thought.

Portrait: Indian child in dark sunglasses, Haridwar

Child in Sunnies
Pilgrims come in all ages.

Portrait: Indian women in colourful headscarves, Haridwar

Women in a Tent
In the dim shade of fabric tent a group of women have gathered. They invite me to join them.

Portrait: Indian woman in a purple tent, Haridwar

Woman in a Purple Tent
The purple fabric contrasts with the women’s colourful headscarves.

Portrait: Indian woman in a colourful headscarf, Haridwar

Colourful Woman
The woman are all smiles and chatter …

Portrait: Indian woman in a purple tent, Haridwar

Indian Woman
… and there is plenty of food and drink in the tent with them.

Portrait: Indian woman in a blue ghoonghat, Haridwar

Woman in Blue

Portrait: Indian woman in yellow, Haridwar

Young Woman in Yellow
The purple fabric casts interesting lights on the young women in the tent.

A corrugated iron fence and three women seated in saris, Haridwar India

A Splash of Sari Colour
Back outside, the light and heat bounce off the corrugated iron sheeting that lines the corridors of the pilgrim’s camp.

Portrait: Indian Mother and Daughter in the bright light of noon, Haridwar India

Mother and Daughter

Crowds on the bathing ghats, Haridwar India

On the Bathing Ghats
In Hindi, a ghat is the “river landing stairs”, and the place where pilgrims gather to bathe in the Ganges as it races past.

Portrait: Young woman on the Ghats, Haridwar

Young Woman on the Ghats

Portrait: Woman in an Ornamental Bindi, Haridwar India

Woman in an Ornamental Bindi

Portrait: Indian woman in a colourful headscarf, Haridwar

The Face of Experience

Rusty bars outside the rail line, Haridwar India

Rusty Rails
Away from the ghats, crowds are thinner, but the colours and textures continue.

Child on a blue and yellow balcony, Haridwar India

Child on a Balcony
As I make my way back through the arterial roads, a child watches my retreat from overhead.

It was time for me to return to the relative quite of my small room.

As I said, as much as I love the colours of India, they overwhelm me, and I have to retreat.

But, I’ll be back!

As soon as our travel bans are lifted …

Photos: 13April2010

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach
Fraser Island, off Southern Queensland’s east coast, is home to several packs of wild dingos (Canis lupus). This makes the UNESCO-listed sand island one of the best places in Australia to see them in their natural habitat.

Fraser Island is a unique and wonderful place; it is a poem in sand, punctuated by the occasional sculptured rock.

I’m not much of a geology student, but the landscape of Fraser Island is a living, pulsing thing that transcends time. As written in the UNESCO-World Heritage listing, the “immense sand dunes are part of the longest and most complete age sequence of coastal dune systems in the world and are still evolving”. The system dates back at least 700,000 years, and some of the dunes may be 400,000 years old. The sculpting of the magnificent silica sand blows by the wind is ongoing today, changing the island’s profile as we watch (see: Airways, Highways, and Waterways).

The world’s largest sand island, Fraser Island was formed over hundreds of thousands of years as winds, ocean currents, and waves swept sands north from the continental shelf of Eastern Australia, and deposited them over the remenants of an ancient terrain of sedimentary rocks from the Cretaceous age and volcanic rocks from the Mesozoic or Tertiary periods. The outcrops that have resurfaced –  including the volcanic formations at Indian Head, Middle Rocks and Waddy Point – only add up to a very small portion of the island’s total 184,000 hectares of land mass.

Some of the older, underlying layers of sands have been stained shades of yellow, brown, and red by the iron-rich minerals deposited with them. When portions of those layers of sand are compressed and bound together with clay, they form a weakly consolidated mass. Over thousands of years, rain and wind have rubbed surface layers away, exposing this soft older core; at The Pinnacles this has resulted in subtly coloured sculpted forms.

Sand is notoriously low in the nutrients essential to plant growth, but in spite of this, Fraser Island is home to a diversity of spectacular vegetation (see: Into a Pristine Past). This, in turn has evolved to support a range of insects, reptiles, amphibians, birds, and almost 50 identified species of mammals – including the iconic Australian dingo (Canis lupus).

There are 25 – 30 stable individual dingo packs on Fraser Island, which gives the visitor a good likelihood of spotting at least one. To preserve their ‘wildness’ it is an offence to feed, harm, or encourage them. The animals on the island have not crossbred with domestic or feral dogs as extensively as mainland populations, and so are thought to be the purest strain on the eastern Australian seaboard – and possibly in the country.

Come and enjoy the landscapes of Fraser Island, and some of the flora and fauna that live there.

Seventy Five Mile Beach from a tour bus window, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Seventy Five Mile Beach from the Bus
Where else in the world is a straight sandy beach part of the national highway system? Seventy Five Mile Beach Road, also known as the Fraser Island Beach Track, runs almost the entire length of the island along the east coast. (07June2019)

People at the entry to the Pinnacles, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

The Pinnacles Entry
At the entry to The Pinnacles walkway, visitors read how the coloured sands were formed when the Rainbow Serpent of the Butchulla people was killed by his lover’s jealous husband.

the Pinnacles, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

The Pinnacles
Also called Coloured Sands, the 72 different colours counted in The Pinnacles are from the different levels of iron in the sand and clay – or they might be from the thousands of pieces of shattered Rainbow Serpent that fell to the earth.

Person on the sandy pathway through the Pinnacles, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Pathway at the Pinnacles
The coloured sandstone layers were muted under the overcast sky. The trail is lined by she-oaks and pandanus palms.

Tyre tracks in white sand, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Treads in the Sand : Middle Rocks
All the roads on Fraser Island are sand. You need a 4WD, a special permit, and a fair bit of skill to navigate them.

People on the Walkway to Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Windswept Walkway : Middle Rocks
Not far from The Pinnacles, but in a very different vegetation zone, we follow a windswept wooden walkway to Champagne Pools.

View of Indian Head from Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

View to Indian Head
Much of the small percentage of rock found on Fraser Island is here on the east coast. From the boardwalk, we can look south to Indian Head

View to Waddy Point from Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

View from the Walkway
… and north to Waddy Point.

People on the Rocks at Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Look, but don’t swim!
The waters around Fraser Island are home to marine stingers, dangerous currents, and a large shark population.

Stairs at Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Stairs at Champagne Pools
The pools at Waddy Point are sandy-bottomed and almost completely surrounded by shallow rocks, making them the only place on the island where swimming in ocean water is safe, and allowed.

People on the Rocks at Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

On the Rocks
The sharpness of the vocanic rocks that surround the Champagne Pools are in stark contrast with the beautiful silica sand most of the island is made from.

Two young women in the water, Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Champagne Pools
Every crashing wave aerates the water in the pools like a delightful jacuzzi.

Two young women in the water, Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Girls in the Bubbles

Yellow flowers, Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Flowers on the Track
The short “Imagine Walk” at Middle Rocks is lined with flowers …

Banksia
… and low shrubs.

Pink Pig Face, Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Pig Face – Carpobrotus Glaucescens

Yellow Guinea Flower, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Guinea Flower – Hibbertia

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Dingo on the Beach
It is an offense to feed the animals, but this one still thought she might find some scraps from our picnic lunch.

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Wild Dingo – Canis Lupus
They are such intelligent looking creatures! While dingos don’t generally attack humans, they can be dangerous, especially to small children.

Rocks on Indian Head, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Viewpoint on Tukkee Wurroo – Indian Head
The rocky outcrop at Tukkee Wurroo is very different in colour and texture from that at Middle Rocks.

White-bellied Sea Eagle, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

White-Bellied Sea Eagle
A sea eagle circles overhead …

Waves on the Rocks, Indian Head, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waves on the Rocks
… and the sea foams below.

Looking south over Fraser Island from Indian Head, Queensland Australia

Fraser Island Landscape
Looking south from the vantage point of Indian Head, you can see how swathes of vegetation alternate with stretches of bare sand.

Walkway at Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Walkway at Eli Creek
Our last stop was at Eli Creek

Young women in bathing suits on the Walkway, Eli Creek Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Girls on the Walkway
… where a 200m wooden walkway takes you up the island’s largest freshwater creek.

Walkway at Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waters under the Walkway
They say the waters in the creek take more than a 100 years to filter through the sand, making them among the purest of the world.

People walking in Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Austra

People in the Creek
It was raining while we were there – which is hardly a problem if you plan to walk downstream …

Two young women riding inner tubes, Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Rafting on Eli Creek
… or raft down the fast-moving waters. The creek pours up to four million litres of water into the ocean every hour.

Catamaran on the Great Sandy Strait, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Evening on the Great Sandy Strait
Sadly, it was time to leave the island. The light was low over the waters as we waited for the ferry back to the mainland.

It is truly a rich and beautiful island, worthy of its UNESCO listing, and of our respect and protection.

Text: Take only Pictures

As the Queensland Government Parks say, the challenge is to balance the conservation of the region’s natural and cultural assets with increasing demands for access and tourism.

I hope they manage, because I want to go back!

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 08June2019