.jpg) Men in the Street
During the Kumbh Mela, the Haridwar streets were full of life and people. India is in the news at the moment – because of Covid.
In spite of the fast-tracking of any vaccines the country can get hold of, a second wave of virus variants is sweeping the country. India now has the second-highest number of Covid cases in the world, and their public and private hospital systems are completely overwhelmed.
Couple this with a huge disparity in access to health, nutrition, and welfare services according to one’s place among the steeply-separated socio-economic classes – and the country’s inability to maintain any kind of preventative measures – and you have a recipe for disaster.
I was amazed to read that the state governments had refused to call off this year’s weeks-long Hindu festival of Kumbh Mela in Haridwar. Indian cities – including the sacred city of Haridwar – are wonderfully crowded and chaotic at the most ‘ordinary’ of times, and an unimaginable crush (see: A Crush of Happy Humanity) during a Kumbh Mela.
As I’ve written before (eg: Faces in the Crowd), a Kumbh Mela is a Hindu festival that takes place roughly every three years at one of four sacred pilgrimage sites. UNECO-listed for its rich cultural importance, this mela (festival) has been called the largest peaceful congregation of pilgrims on earth. The last was held across 55 days at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. It attracted more than 200 million people, with 50 million attending on the festival’s most auspicious day. This year, numbers are well down, but not low enough to allow for social distancing: between 3.1 and 5 million people are expected on the equivalent days (see: The Conversation; India Today).
I was at the last mela in Haridwar, Uttarakhand, and found the press of humanity in the streets quite staggering (see: Crowds on the Move). On the most auspicious day – February 14th, 2010, when the attached pictures were taken – an estimated 10 million people took their ritual bath in the Ganges.
On the busiest days, I stayed well away from the bathing ghats themselves, and instead wandered around the arterial roads as pilgrims walked in and out of the city’s centre. Many of these pilgrims were happy to chat and wanted their pictures taken.
I’m always amazed how open and friendly so many people are in these foreign environments. Either side of the main roads, people in shops, homes, and temples got on with their every-day lives, and I was often welcomed in. At one point, I was admiring the beautiful facade of a building when a teenage girl with good English came out to ask me what I was doing. When I told her I was taking pictures because the building was so lovely, she went inside and consulted with her mum. I was invited in for tea – where I got to meet some of the five generations living in the home, and was given an explanation of the ritual offerings to the Mother Ganges that I had been a part of a few days prior.
It is almost impossible to imagine this happening here in my neighbourhood!
Join me for some portraits of the locals and visitors to Haridwar:
.jpg) Riding into Haridwar
On foot or by rickshaw, the sadhus arrive into Haridwar. .jpg) A Man and his Sewing Machine
Street traders and vendors are kept busy as the pilgrims keep coming.  Street Sewing Machine
Every-day life goes on around the busy streets. Sadhu in White
There are temples and sadhus … Sadhu in Red
… in every nook and cranny I check out. Man in a Bindi
Many of the pilgrims stop for a bindi and a blessing before they continue to the bathing ghats. Old Man in Glasses Girl in Red People in the Street Housing Doorway
When I was caught photographing this lovely entry way from outside the front fence … Woman in her Doorway
… mum came out to size me up. Deciding I was harmless, she invited me in for tea! Young Woman
I then got to make portraits of her beautiful daughters against the rich textures of the outer building … Young Woman in Pink
… or against the colourful fabrics adorning the walls indoors. Auntie and her Son
It is not uncommon for extended family to have their own rooms within a shared housing complex. Smiling Young Woman The Matriarch
Several generations were under the one roof, and this was clearly the matriarch. There was an older woman in the central living room where we shared tea, but she was frail, and had clearly relinquished charge of the household. Charismatic Eyes
Back in the streets, the crowds keep walking, … Colourful Women
… or stop for a rest and a chat. Hennaed Hands
Henna is thought to bring positive spirits and good luck; the women walking into town were happy to show off their beautiful designs. Sadhu in Saffron
I find the sadhu’s endlessly fascinating … Masala Chai
… and enigmatic. Smoking his Chillum
They travel light: just a blanket, a prayer book, a small bag of personal items, a container for holy water, and a chillum: a conical clay pipe. Woman in Red
I love the vibrant colours … Woman in Yellow
… and the elegance of the women. Makeshift Campsite
The travellers make do with very little. Woman Smoking
Cigarette breaks are welcome … Smiling Girl
… and smiles are freely given. Young Friends Travelling Together Hindus believe the Ganges is holy and that bathing in it will cleanse them of their sins and bring salvation – especially during a Kumbh Mela, which some call a Festival of Immortality.
 The Uttarakhand Chief Minister has recently been quoted as saying “faith in God will overcome the fear of the virus”; let us hope the sacred waters of the Mother Ganges mitigate the “super spreader” effect that many people expect from the current mela.
Safe Travels!
Photos: 14April2010
Posted in environmental portrait,India,TravelTags: hindu,hinduism,India,Kumbh Mela,landscape,people,Photo Blog,portraits,religion,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Buddhas over Beira Lake
Colombo, commercial and legislative capital of Sri Lanka, may well be a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural city – but it was the many Buddha statues, in all their different glorious forms, that stood out most for me. Sri Lanka was a delight!
I hadn’t done any homework prior to travelling there, so it was also a delightful surprise. I expected (and got) colonial architecture and Hindu temples (see: Temples, Rains, and Ruins), but the number and variety of Buddhist sites in the country (eg: Dambulla Cave; Avukana Buddha; and Sigiriya) surprised me.
It shouldn’t have. Across the country, Buddhism is practiced by over 70% of the population, with Hinduism, Islam and Christianity splitting the other 30%.
In the Colombo Municipality area, however, this split is quite different: with Buddhism and Islam accounting for about 30% each, and Hinduism (22.6%) and Christianity (14.5%) following behind.
Even so, it was the Buddhas, in all their colourful glory and variety of sculptural styles, that stood out for me all around the city.
I went to Sri Lanka without a real plan: I had found a package deal which fit in with other travel my husband and I were committed to, and so we booked it. When the dates for the pre-paid trip finally rolled around, everything had changed, and I was travelling solo, going wherever the accommodation took me. Fortunately, in spite of a constitutional crisis and some major political upheavals while I was there (see: Parliament Dissolved), the country felt comfortable and safe, especially to an old Asia-hand.
I was particularly lucky with the Colombo stays at either end of my trip. My accommodation was wonderfully located: near enough to Viharamahadevi Park for me to walk my morning circuits there before undertaking the day’s activities. And, part of my second stop fell on a weekend, so a friend I knew living and working in the city was able to join me for some photowalks.
Come with us in search of Buddhas – and some other religious icons:
Buddha Blessings in the Morning
It was a short walk from my rooms to the spacious Viharamahadevi Park. Once there, my walking track took me past a giant golden Buddha. (iPhone6) Wedding Photos
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s most important Buddhist complexes: a place of worship and centre of learning. I walked past every day, and once was lucky enough to spot a couple in traditional dress having their wedding pictures made. (iPhone6) Elephant Head
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s oldest Buddhist temples, and is an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture. Vishnu-Buddha
The iconography inside is also a rich mix of Buddhist and Hindu traditions: not surprising, considering Prince Siddhartha’s North-Indian Brahmin roots. Prayers
Visitors to the temple pay their respects to all the icons – although there are favourites. Yellow Buddha
The temple is packed with innumerable ornate Buddha statues. Buddha with a Flame Top Knot
Looking like highly polished porcelain, this Buddha features an ushnisha, the flame-like top knot that originated in Sri Lankan Buddhist sculpture. Surrounded by Devas
Some of the Buddha images are ornate and colourful, … Devotion
… others are more subdued. Begging Bowls and Buddhas
You will always find a row of seven Buddhas in Theravada Buddhist temples: each representing a day of the week. They are sometimes in different postures according to the day. You are meant to pay respect to the statue representing the day of the week that you were born on … Bronze Buddha
… and to turn to that Buddha for advice. Ivory-Coloured Alabaster Buddha Bodhi Leaf
I took a phone-picture of the bodhi leaves for my grandson whose name is Bodhi; I then learned that this very tree was planted over a century ago as an off-shoot from the Indian tree under which the Buddha obtained enlightenment. (iPhone6) Clay Buddha
The courtyard housing the magnificent bodhi tree also houses some elegantly simple clay Buddhas. Bronze Buddha or Bodhisattva Golden Buddha
In the courtyard, we find a golden Buddha, a white stupa, and green foliage. Buddhas on the Steps
The rows of Buddha statues on a stepped wall in Gangaramaya Temple are modelled after Borobudur, the 7th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple in Magelang Regency, Central Java, Indonesia. Buddhas on the Steps Stepped Buddhas Shiva Nataraja
The dancing Lord Shiva is stepping on a demon to stamp out evil and prepare the universe for creation. Marble Buddha
This beautiful Buddha in a Chinese-style crown always made me pause as I walked past Gangaramaya Temple. Golden Buddha
Although Seema Malaka is actually a part of the Gangaramaya Temple complex, it is a short walk away. Golden Buddhas
This temple is intended to be used for meditation and rest, rather than for worship … Buddhas in a Row
… and countless Buddhas are there to watch over you … Buddhas over Beira Lake
… and to watch over the city from their vantage point in the lake. The original temple sank into the waters, so the current sanctuary was built in 1976. Stone Buddha
This serene face was my favourite, … Vishnu
… but the more colourful Hindu Gods … Ganesha
… drew more attention from locals. At the Feet of the Buddha Spiritually restored, it was time to find physical sustenance and explore some of the rest of the city.
Until next time,
Peace be with you.
Photos: 10November2018
Posted in Religious Practice,Sri Lanka,TravelTags: buddhism,buddhist,religion,Religious Practice,sculpture,Sri Lanka,temple,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Ruta de las Agüeras
Walking trails criss-cross the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. Some of these ancient routes are the pathways of medieval saints; most connect old villages; and one we found even lead us through a landscape of magical Cantabrian characters. There is something about a European woods that lends itself to cautionary tales of faeries and ogres. Away from the densely populated modern cities, there are still mountains where wolves might dwell, and winding forest paths that have been used for centuries by pilgrims, saints, and ordinary travellers.
In the days before telecommunications, this network of pathways was the only way of disseminating goods and information between towns. Today, the pathways are still used for recreation, and as a means of getting in touch with nature and with the past.
Although I’m getting older and lazier, I still love a walk in the wilds – especially through new terrain. That – and my New Year’s resolution to study a language – was what attracted me the Peak Me language school, located in Panes, in the north of Spain. When the world is not locked down by Covid-19, this school offers a “Walk-and-Talk” program of morning Spanish language classes and afternoon hikes or adventure activities with their partners at Canoe Adventure Trophy.
Unless you remember one of my previous posts from this area (see: Ruta Alevia), you’ve probably never heard of Panes, a tiny parish of 568 people in the Peñamellera Baja in Asturias. This delightful town is well situated within easy reach of the spectacular Picos de Europa mountains on one side and the stunning Atlantic coastline on the other. The local residents and businesses integrate with the language school, and cheerfully tolerate a small but steady stream of visitors with questionable Spanish skills.
Some of our group had complained of aching joints after our mountain climb (see: Ruta Alevia) the day before, so our guide selected a gentle seven kilometre meander for our second day’s outing. After our morning’s intensive class, we travelled a short distance to the region next door – to Cantabria – where we started our walk from the charming village of Cicera. Following a section of the medieval road from La Hermida to the villages of Alto Peñarrubia, we came upon the very modest Hermitage of Santa Catalina, in use in the 17- and 1800s.
We then turned uphill onto Mount Hozarco, where the beautiful deciduous Atlantic forest of oaks, beeches, and chestnut, was populated with hideous creatures apparently common in Cantabrian folklore. From there, we turned back downhill towards the spectacular Hermida Gorge, following the Las Agueras – a route that gets its name because the two ravines it links: the Navedo and the Cicera, have flowing water throughout the year.
Do join me!
Camino Signposting
Brick streets, stone buildings, and mountains lost in mist: Cicera is a traditional Cantabrian village. But, as a nod to modern times, that signboard has a QR Code! More Signposting
In theory, it should be impossible to get lost! Still, I was happy not to be walking alone as the mists surrounded us and the rains threatened. Rooftop in the Rain
Every Spanish town has a Catholic church: the clay-tiled roof of Iglesia del Carmen reaches up into the rainy sky. Iglesia del Carmen
The old stone building is quite lovely, … Cicera
… as is the pretty town below. Pastoral
Nothing says “countryside charm” like sheep on a wet hillside! Rosehips Hermitage of Santa Catalina
I actually found this cracked and ageing information sign … La Ermita de Santa Catalina
… far more visually interesting than the 17th or 18th century shrine located here. Vivi and the Signpost
Although we were meant to be practicing our newly-learned Spanish, our guide Vivi took pity on us, … Mythological Path of Mount Hozarco
… and explained, in English, about the magical Cantabrian characters who traditionally shared these woods with the local humans. Ojáncana
The first figure we come across is Ojáncana, a scary creature with wild boar tusks, and dirty and matted hair. She comes out of her cave to eat lost children. Arquetu in the Woods
Arquetu is a grumpy old man who takes care of those who have lost everything: he lends money to people foolish enough to go broke, … Arquetu and his Chest of Gold and Silver
… but he will reprimand them first, and curse them to eternal poverty if they do it a second time. El Roblón
This was my favourite of the creatures: the more subtle sight of a beautiful trunk of an old oak with arms and legs made of ash branches – with a lost child trapped within it. Walkers in the Woods
As we turn onto la Ruta de las Agüeras, we walk into a beautiful beech forest, … Stumps and Moss
… where it is cool and mossy, and soft underfoot. Fungus on the Forest Floor
Mushrooms and all kinds of fungi thrive on the damp forest floor: … Los Dedos del Diablo
… the most distinctive of these is the devil’s fingers. Also called the octopus stinkhorn (clathrus archeri), it smells like putrid flesh at maturity. Nature’s Sculptures in the Woods
The natural trees here are as wonderful as those along the community-created Mythological Path. Rushing Waters
As we drop down towards highway and the Deva River, a stream races down the hill beside the path. Walking into the Gorge
The steep limestone cliffs rise up on both sides of us and the creek below, as we get closer to the Hermida Gorge either side of the Deva River. More Signposts
Our path takes us to the edge of the N-621 highway which runs the length of the Hermida Gorge, and where our transport will pick us up and take us back to Panes.
I’m sure I learned a Spanish word or two –
and I certainly enjoyed the walk.
Until next time –
Happy Walking!
Photos: 24September2019
Ready for the Sing Sing
A young Kunai Group woman from the Western Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea is ready to perform with her tribal group. Anyone familiar with the rugged, jungle-clad terrain and dearth of infrastructure across Papua New Guinea will be horrified by the news of the recent rise of Covid-19 cases in the country (e.g. Covid Cases Triple). The very remoteness of tribal territories that helped keep the epidemic at bay until now also complicates the delivery of health services.
With a population of just over 9 million people, the country is resource-rich with forestry, agriculture, fishery, and mineral products. Even so, 80 percent of the population is classed as rural, almost 40 percent are said to be living under the poverty line, and only about 13 percent have reliable access to electricity.
Even before the current crisis, the country faced major health issues arising from communicable diseases, malaria, tuberculosis, diarrhoeal diseases, acute respiratory disease and HIV, while concurrently struggling with a critical shortage of health professionals (e.g.: Global Health Workforce Alliance)
But this is only part of the story. Papua New Guinea is one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world. That rugged terrain allowed discrete regions to develop and maintain their own unique identities and languages. There are about 840 living languages in the country – most belonging to small, tribal communities with strong internal social cohesion and maintaining a traditional, self-sustainable lifestyle based on farming, hunting and gathering.
Although it is unlikely that there are any genuinely “uncontacted” tribes left in the country, much of the interior remains under-explored and the tribal groups are poorly understood. Before the coming of Australian gold prospectors in the 1930s, the Western Highlands were thought to be uninhabited, and the Hewa people of the Southern Highlands remained uncontacted until 1975.
While the tribes are strong within themselves, inter-tribal warfare is a real and ongoing problem, only made worse by the introduction of modern weapons (e.g.: Mistaking Massacre for Tradition; Spears to Semi-Automatics).
Sing sings, festivals of song, dance and culture, were originally intended to mitigate tribal warfare and to foster greater respect and harmony between neighbouring groups. These days, sing sings have become more focussed on attracting tourists. But, they still give tribes the opportunity to meet each other, to show off their customs, and to teach their youngsters the age-old traditions.
One of the biggest annual sing sings is the Mount Hagen Cultural Show in the middle of the country. Running since the 1960s, it attracts around 100 tribal groups: many from the Western Highlands Province, some from neighbouring provinces, and even a few from Papua New Guinea’s surrounding islands. The groups compete for cash prizes which are awarded for traditional costumes and for performances.
Back in 2017, I attended the festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. The colour and noise were matched by the heat – and I loved every minute of it.
Do come along!
Western Highland Men Getting Ready
A lot of time and care goes into the face painting. Mirrors are at a premium. Unfinished Paint Baby in the Middle
Children embody the culture they grow up in; inside the festival grounds, even the youngest are included in the parades and performances. Suli Muli
The Suli Muli dancers from Enga Province are called that for the song they sing while banging their kundu drums and jumping up and down. Both men’s and women’s groups wear grass skirts and giant hats made of moss, plant fibres, or even hair. Enga Woman
With a quarter-million speakers across the Enga Province, this is the largest native ethnic and linguistic group in the country (see: Big Hats and Small Drums). Western Highland Man
The Western Highlands, which is where Mount Hagen and this annual festival are located, is one of the most culturally rich regions of the country. We can see similarities – … Western Highland Men
… and differences – in the dance troupes’ costuming and face paint styles. War Cries
Face paint was intended to intimidate enemies, and some tribal songs resemble war cries. Kunai Group
Feathers are everywhere. Another common element across many of the Western Highland groups is the ritual moka kina, a necklace or pectoral ornament made from shell, ochre and resin, and symbolising wealth. Kunai Group – Women
In this tribe, the women’s costumes are completely different from their male counterparts. Outside the Fence
These days, the Mt Hagen Cultural Show is priced out of reach for many locals, … Papuan Man
… and they have to content themselves with watching from outside. Papuan Women Keps Goose Culture Group
Wearing their elaborate headdresses and heavy necklaces of shells and fur, the groups keep coming; … Western Highlands Man Tusks and Shells
Complex necklaces of precious shells and boars’ tusks symbolise wealth and power – and bang noisily when the men dance. Kumipana Warrior Women Group
In a land with little electricity, it is no surprise that most of these groups have no digital footprint! Try as I might, I could find out nothing about this one. Kumipana Warrior Girl
This young woman has a lovely smile – making her much less frightening than she is supposed to be. Kumipana Skull Necklace
One of the boys has the skull of a small animal on his back as adornment. Red Black and Yellow
Paints used to be made from local plants and clay; today they are more likely to be store-bought. “Ekawest Culture Group”
That’s what their cardboard sign said, … Ekawest Youngster
… but I could find no trace on-line. Tomorrow’s Face
Papua New Guinea is a young country: life expectancy is 65.2, the media age is 22.4, and 35.5% of the population is under 15. Betel Smile
I’m always distressed by the effects I see everywhere of chewing betel (Areca catechu). Mother and Child Bird Colours
I’m amazed that there are any birds left on the island, given the number of bird parts and feathers that go into the costumes, but headdresses are carefully looked after from one year to the next. Pacific Island Dancers
As the afternoon wears on, the dancers break into party tunes. Alexander Pears
This is the face of the future: these young people take real pride in their culture and heritage. Tribal remoteness and lack of contact with the outside world is a double-edge sword. The Papua New Guinea Constitution explicitly recognises the importance of “traditional villages and communities [remaining] as viable units of Papua New Guinean society”, but with a young and fast-growing population – underserved by health and education services – it is hard to know how they will bridge the gap between an agrarian tribal history and a resource-rich future.
In the short term, I hope they can weather the health crisis that seems to be upon them.
Until next time.
Pictures: 19August2017
Posted in environmental portraits,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: blog,children,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Mt Hagen,Papua New Guinea,people,performers,Photo Blog,portraits,sing sing,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Heart Reef at Hardy Reef
It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful place to ride-out lockdown than Australia’s UNESCO-listed Great Barrier Reef! The statistics are staggering: the 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands that make up the Great Barrier Reef stretch across 2300 kilometres (1,429 miles) into the Coral Sea off the northeast coast of Queensland, Australia. Between 24 km (15 mi) and 240 km (386 mi) wide, this – the world’s largest coral reef system – takes in an area of 344,400 square kilometres (133,000 sq mi) and is “the only living thing on earth visible from space”.
But of course, it is not just big: it is stunningly beautiful.
Called one of the seven wonders of the natural world, UNESCO writes that the Great Barrier Reef “is of superlative natural beauty above and below the water, and provides some of the most spectacular scenery on earth.”
One of the principal reasons for affording the Great Barrier Reef UNESCO-World Heritage status in 1981 was its ecological importance. According the the World Wildlife Fund, the region is home to “more than 1,500 species of fish, 411 types of hard coral, one-third of the world’s soft corals, 134 species of sharks and rays, six of the world’s seven species of threatened marine turtles, and more than 30 species of marine mammals, including the vulnerable dugong.” Where else could you find such biodiversity?
The last time I visited the reef was some thirty-years ago. Since then, the eco-awareness of tourism infrastructure has greatly improved: the operator I travelled with on this more recent trip, Cruise Whitsundays, boasts Advanced Eco Certification and partnership with Eco Barge Clean Seas. Their giant pontoon, Reefworld, is moored above the Hardy Reef, allowing visitors close, but relatively non-invasive access to a coral wall, with its myriad of colourful fish and other marine life. I can’t scuba, but snorkelling here in a supplied stinger-suit (Beware jellyfish!) was pure joy. While I didn’t see any of the endangered sea turtles who are often sighted by swimmers here, I did meet an enormous humphead wrasse – an exciting first for me.
Join me on the reef – about three hours off the coast of Australia:
Cruise-Boat Dock
My rainy morning started at the Port of Airlie, where I pick up my transport to the reef, a Cruise Whitsundays catamaran. Dive Team
Whether it was the lack of international tourists because of Australia’s closed borders, or the fact that it is rainy season/low season, but the young staff almost outnumbered the travellers. Boats in the Whitsundays
The Whitsunday Islands are a sailor’s paradise: 74 tropical islands covered in dense rainforest and bounded by white sand beaches between the coast of Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef. A Boat Like Ours
Cruise Whitsundays operates island transfers, so we pass a cat exactly like ours as we head out. Whitsunday Islands Dive Team Member Rocky Outcrops in the Whitsundays Hamilton Island
Our first stop is the Hamilton Island port, where we exchange passengers to-and-from here and Daydream Island. Leaving Hamilton Island
Property here is mostly high-end. “Explore”
We are not the only tour boat in the region. Underwater Observatory
My first activity, once I arrive at the multilevel Reefworld facility, is to walk down to the underwater observatory. Damselfish (Neoglyphidodon Melas) Lifeguard on Duty
Other day-trippers are already in the water, and a lifeguard keeps watch over the areas marked out by swim-rope dividers. Rescue-Ready
There is great attention to safety: we were all coached in basic signals while still aboard our transfer boat. Robinson Helicopter
I had to stay dry as I had one of the four seats on a scenic helicopter flight. Brown Boobies (Sula Leucogaster)
While waiting for our turn to load, I watched the seabirds, … Black Noddy (Anous Minutus)
… many of whom weren’t remotely disturbed by our presence. Helipad in Hardy Reef
As we lift into the air and leave our helipad behind, the reef stretches out in all directions, and the exclusive double-story helipad in the heart of the reef comes into view. Hardy Reef Helipad from Above
The view is stunning, and the the colours change dramatically with every shift in light. What’s even more amazing is that this particular helipad has a luxurious boat shed underneath. Heart Reef from Above
Just 17 meters (56 feet) across, Heart Reef is a naturally formed coral outcrop. Heart Reef
The now-famous heart-shaped reef was discovered by a local pilot in 1975. For its protection, diving, snorkelling, and swimming in this immediate area is not allowed. The Next Helicopter Load
The breathtaking scenic flight is short: too soon, the next load of passengers shuttle in … Boat Operator
… and we are transported back to the main float. Brown Booby
Sea birds are all around, in the air … Seabirds
… and resting on floats … The Platform
… as we go back to the pontoon. Butterflyfish from the Sub
The colours of the reef are muted from the semi-submarine, … Yellowtail Fusiliers (Caesio Cuning)
… but amazingly vibrant in the sunlight … Almost Abstract – Feeding Frenzy
… where fish come to the surface to be fed. Me and an Endangered Humphead Wrasse
Of course, the snorkelling was the absolute highlight of the day! I got extra lucky when I met the resident Māori wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus) and one of the scuba photographers with his underwater flash was handy. This magnificent world is under threat. Even here in a designated Marine Park with World Heritage status, the reef is challenged by bleaching caused by ever-warming waters, and by reduced water quality because of dredging for port expansions, and waste-water run-off from expanding on-land developments.
Add to these stressors increased shipping activities, extreme weather events including floods and cyclone, and even illegal fishing, and it is no surprise that some scientists maintain that the Great Barrier Reef is at a critical tipping point and could disappear by 2050.
I feel so lucky to have enjoyed it!
I hope it lasts for my children’s children – and yours.
Photos: 16February2021
Posted in Animals,Australia,Landscapes,TravelTags: Australia,environmental portraits,Great Barrier Reef,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
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