The backs of seated buddhas at Seema Malaka temple, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Buddhas over Beira Lake
Colombo, commercial and legislative capital of Sri Lanka, may well be a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural city – but it was the many Buddha statues, in all their different glorious forms, that stood out most for me.

Sri Lanka was a delight!

I hadn’t done any homework prior to travelling there, so it was also a delightful surprise. I expected (and got) colonial architecture and Hindu temples (see: Temples, Rains, and Ruins), but the number and variety of Buddhist sites in the country (eg: Dambulla Cave; Avukana Buddha; and Sigiriya) surprised me.

It shouldn’t have. Across the country, Buddhism is practiced by over 70% of the population, with Hinduism, Islam and Christianity splitting the other 30%.

In the Colombo Municipality area, however, this split is quite different: with Buddhism and Islam accounting for about 30% each, and Hinduism (22.6%) and Christianity (14.5%) following behind.

Even so, it was the Buddhas, in all their colourful glory and variety of sculptural styles, that stood out for me all around the city.

I went to Sri Lanka without a real plan: I had found a package deal which fit in with other travel my husband and I were committed to, and so we booked it. When the dates for the pre-paid trip finally rolled around, everything had changed, and I was travelling solo, going wherever the accommodation took me. Fortunately, in spite of a constitutional crisis and some major political upheavals while I was there (see: Parliament Dissolved), the country felt comfortable and safe, especially to an old Asia-hand.

I was particularly lucky with the Colombo stays at either end of my trip. My accommodation was wonderfully located: near enough to Viharamahadevi Park for me to walk my morning circuits there before undertaking the day’s activities. And, part of my second stop fell on a weekend, so a friend I knew living and working in the city was able to join me for some photowalks.

Come with us in search of Buddhas – and some other religious icons:

Golden Buddha statue, Viharamahadevi Park, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddha Blessings in the Morning
It was a short walk from my rooms to the spacious Viharamahadevi Park. Once there, my walking track took me past a giant golden Buddha. (iPhone6)

Sri Lankan couple in traditional dress, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Wedding Photos
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s most important Buddhist complexes: a place of worship and centre of learning. I walked past every day, and once was lucky enough to spot a couple in traditional dress having their wedding pictures made. (iPhone6)

Elephant head on a verandah, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Elephant Head
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s oldest Buddhist temples, and is an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture.

Vishnu-Buddha under red light, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Vishnu-Buddha
The iconography inside is also a rich mix of Buddhist and Hindu traditions: not surprising, considering Prince Siddhartha’s North-Indian Brahmin roots.

Sri Lankan woman praying, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Prayers
Visitors to the temple pay their respects to all the icons – although there are favourites.

Seated Yellow Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Yellow Buddha
The temple is packed with innumerable ornate Buddha statues.

Head shot: Yellow Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Buddha with a Flame Top Knot
Looking like highly polished porcelain, this Buddha features an ushnisha, the flame-like top knot that originated in Sri Lankan Buddhist sculpture.

Ceramic Buddha surrounded by Devas, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Surrounded by Devas
Some of the Buddha images are ornate and colourful, …

Alabaster Buddha surrounded by stone, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Devotion
… others are more subdued.

A row of bronze Theravada Buddhas, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Begging Bowls and Buddhas
You will always find a row of seven Buddhas in Theravada Buddhist temples: each representing a day of the week. They are sometimes in different postures according to the day. You are meant to pay respect to the statue representing the day of the week that you were born on …

A bronze Theravada Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Bronze Buddha
… and to turn to that Buddha for advice.

Ivory-Coloured Alabaster Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Ivory-Coloured Alabaster Buddha

Bodhi Leaves, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Bodhi Leaf
I took a phone-picture of the bodhi leaves for my grandson whose name is Bodhi; I then learned that this very tree was planted over a century ago as an off-shoot from the Indian tree under which the Buddha obtained enlightenment. (iPhone6)

Clay Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Clay Buddha
The courtyard housing the magnificent bodhi tree also houses some elegantly simple clay Buddhas.

Head shot: Bronze Tibetan Buddha, Golden Buddha in the courtyard, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Bronze Buddha or Bodhisattva

Golden Buddha in the courtyard, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Golden Buddha
In the courtyard, we find a golden Buddha, a white stupa, and green foliage.

Buddhas on the Steps, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lan

Buddhas on the Steps
The rows of Buddha statues on a stepped wall in Gangaramaya Temple are modelled after Borobudur, the 7th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple in Magelang Regency, Central Java, Indonesia.

Buddhas on the Steps, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas on the Steps

Buddhas on the Steps, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Stepped Buddhas

Bronze Shiva Nataraja statue, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Shiva Nataraja
The dancing Lord Shiva is stepping on a demon to stamp out evil and prepare the universe for creation.

Crowned marble Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Marble Buddha
This beautiful Buddha in a Chinese-style crown always made me pause as I walked past Gangaramaya Temple.

Golden Buddha, Seema Malaka, Colombo Sri Lanka

Golden Buddha
Although Seema Malaka is actually a part of the Gangaramaya Temple complex, it is a short walk away.

Golden Buddhas in a row, Seema Malaka, Colombo Sri Lanka

Golden Buddhas
This temple is intended to be used for meditation and rest, rather than for worship …

Golden Buddhas in a row, Seema Malaka, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas in a Row
… and countless Buddhas are there to watch over you …

The backs of seated buddhas at Seema Malaka temple, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Buddhas over Beira Lake
… and to watch over the city from their vantage point in the lake. The original temple sank into the waters, so the current sanctuary was built in 1976.

Head shot: Stone Buddha, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Stone Buddha
This serene face was my favourite, …

Vishnu in a niche, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Vishnu
… but the more colourful Hindu Gods

Ganesha in a niche, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Ganesha
… drew more attention from locals.

Stone Buddha Feet, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

At the Feet of the Buddha

Spiritually restored, it was time to find physical sustenance and explore some of the rest of the city.

Until next time,

Peace be with you.

 

Photos: 10November2018

Wooden signpost and bench at a head of the Ruta de las Agüeras, Cantabria, Spain

Ruta de las Agüeras
Walking trails criss-cross the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. Some of these ancient routes are the pathways of medieval saints; most connect old villages; and one we found even lead us through a landscape of magical Cantabrian characters.

There is something about a European woods that lends itself to cautionary tales of faeries and ogres. Away from the densely populated modern cities, there are still mountains where wolves might dwell, and winding forest paths that have been used for centuries by pilgrims, saints, and ordinary travellers.

In the days before telecommunications, this network of pathways was the only way of disseminating goods and information between towns. Today, the pathways are still used for recreation, and as a means of getting in touch with nature and with the past.

Although I’m getting older and lazier, I still love a walk in the wilds – especially through new terrain. That – and my New Year’s resolution to study a language – was what attracted me the Peak Me language school, located in Panes, in the north of Spain. When the world is not locked down by Covid-19, this school offers a “Walk-and-Talk” program of morning Spanish language classes and afternoon hikes or adventure activities with their partners at Canoe Adventure Trophy.

Unless you remember one of my previous posts from this area (see: Ruta Alevia), you’ve probably never heard of Panes, a tiny parish of 568 people in the Peñamellera Baja in Asturias. This delightful town is well situated within easy reach of the spectacular Picos de Europa mountains on one side and the stunning Atlantic coastline on the other. The local residents and businesses integrate with the language school, and cheerfully tolerate a small but steady stream of visitors with questionable Spanish skills. 

Some of our group had complained of aching joints after our mountain climb (see: Ruta Alevia) the day before, so our guide selected a gentle seven kilometre meander for our second day’s outing. After our morning’s intensive class, we travelled a short distance to the region next door – to Cantabria – where we started our walk from the charming village of Cicera. Following a section of the medieval road from La Hermida to the villages of Alto Peñarrubia, we came upon the very modest Hermitage of Santa Catalina, in use in the 17- and 1800s.

We then turned uphill onto Mount Hozarco, where the beautiful deciduous Atlantic forest of oaks, beeches, and chestnut, was populated with hideous creatures apparently common in Cantabrian folklore. From there, we turned back downhill towards the spectacular Hermida Gorge, following the Las Agueras –  a route that gets its name because the two ravines it links: the Navedo and the Cicera, have flowing water throughout the year.

Do join me!

Camino signposting, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Camino Signposting
Brick streets, stone buildings, and mountains lost in mist: Cicera is a traditional Cantabrian village. But, as a nod to modern times, that signboard has a QR Code!

Regional signposting, Cicera Cantabria Spain

More Signposting
In theory, it should be impossible to get lost! Still, I was happy not to be walking alone as the mists surrounded us and the rains threatened.

Iglesia del Carmen rooftop, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Rooftop in the Rain
Every Spanish town has a Catholic church: the clay-tiled roof of Iglesia del Carmen reaches up into the rainy sky.

Iglesia del Carmen, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Iglesia del Carmen
The old stone building is quite lovely, …

Cicera rooftops, Cantabria Spain

Cicera
… as is the pretty town below.

Sheep on a hillside, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Pastoral
Nothing says “countryside charm” like sheep on a wet hillside!

Rosehips, Cicera, Cantabria Spain

Rosehips

Explanatory sign, La Ermita de Santa Catalina, Cantabria Spain

Hermitage of Santa Catalina
I actually found this cracked and ageing information sign …

La Ermita de Santa Catalina, Cantabria Spain

La Ermita de Santa Catalina
… far more visually interesting than the 17th or 18th century shrine located here.

Walking group in front of a signpost, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Vivi and the Signpost
Although we were meant to be practicing our newly-learned Spanish, our guide Vivi took pity on us, …

Woman in front of a signpost, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Mythological Path of Mount Hozarco
… and explained, in English, about the magical Cantabrian characters who traditionally shared these woods with the local humans.

Ojáncana in the woods, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Ojáncana
The first figure we come across is Ojáncana, a scary creature with wild boar tusks, and dirty and matted hair. She comes out of her cave to eat lost children.

Arquetu in the woods, , Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Arquetu in the Woods
Arquetu is a grumpy old man who takes care of those who have lost everything: he lends money to people foolish enough to go broke, …

Arquetu in the woods, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Arquetu and his Chest of Gold and Silver
… but he will reprimand them first, and curse them to eternal poverty if they do it a second time.

El Roblón, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

El Roblón
This was my favourite of the creatures: the more subtle sight of a beautiful trunk of an old oak with arms and legs made of ash branches – with a lost child trapped within it.

Hikers in the woods, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Walkers in the Woods
As we turn onto la Ruta de las Agüeras, we walk into a beautiful beech forest, …

Large mossy stump, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Stumps and Moss
… where it is cool and mossy, and soft underfoot.

White toadstool on the forest floor, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Fungus on the Forest Floor
Mushrooms and all kinds of fungi thrive on the damp forest floor: …

Devil

Los Dedos del Diablo
… the most distinctive of these is the devil’s fingers. Also called the octopus stinkhorn (clathrus archeri), it smells like putrid flesh at maturity.

Mossy tree trunk, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Nature’s Sculptures in the Woods
The natural trees here are as wonderful as those along the community-created Mythological Path.

Water falls, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Rushing Waters
As we drop down towards highway and the Deva River, a stream races down the hill beside the path.

Hermida Gorge, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Walking into the Gorge
The steep limestone cliffs rise up on both sides of us and the creek below, as we get closer to the Hermida Gorge either side of the Deva River.

Signposts, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

More Signposts
Our path takes us to the edge of the N-621 highway which runs the length of the Hermida Gorge, and where our transport will pick us up and take us back to Panes.

Text: Happy Walking!

I’m sure I learned a Spanish word or two – 

and I certainly enjoyed the walk.

Until next time –

Happy Walking!

 

Photos: 24September2019

Portrait: young Melpa woman in face paint and feathered headdress, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Ready for the Sing Sing
A young Kunai Group woman from the Western Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea is ready to perform with her tribal group.

Anyone familiar with the rugged, jungle-clad terrain and dearth of infrastructure across Papua New Guinea will be horrified by the news of the recent rise of Covid-19 cases in the country (e.g. Covid Cases Triple). The very remoteness of tribal territories that helped keep the epidemic at bay until now also complicates the delivery of health services.

With a population of just over 9 million people, the country is resource-rich with forestry, agriculture, fishery, and mineral products. Even so, 80 percent of the population is classed as rural, almost 40 percent are said to be living under the poverty line, and only about 13 percent have reliable access to electricity.

Even before the current crisis, the country faced major health issues arising from communicable diseases, malaria, tuberculosis, diarrhoeal diseases, acute respiratory disease and HIV, while concurrently struggling with a critical shortage of health professionals (e.g.: Global Health Workforce Alliance)

But this is only part of the story. Papua New Guinea is one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world. That rugged terrain allowed discrete regions to develop and maintain their own unique identities and languages. There are about 840 living languages in the country – most belonging to small, tribal communities with strong internal social cohesion and maintaining a traditional, self-sustainable lifestyle based on farming, hunting and gathering.

Although it is unlikely that there are any genuinely “uncontacted” tribes left in the country, much of the interior remains under-explored and the tribal groups are poorly understood. Before the coming of Australian gold prospectors in the 1930s, the Western Highlands were thought to be uninhabited, and the Hewa people of the Southern Highlands remained uncontacted until 1975.

While the tribes are strong within themselves, inter-tribal warfare is a real and ongoing problem, only made worse by the introduction of modern weapons (e.g.: Mistaking Massacre for Tradition; Spears to Semi-Automatics).

Sing sings, festivals of song, dance and culture, were originally intended to mitigate tribal warfare and to foster greater respect and harmony between neighbouring groups. These days, sing sings have become more focussed on attracting tourists. But, they still give tribes the opportunity to meet each other, to show off their customs, and to teach their youngsters the age-old traditions. 

One of the biggest annual sing sings is the Mount Hagen Cultural Show in the middle of the country. Running since the 1960s, it attracts around 100 tribal groups: many from the Western Highlands Province, some from neighbouring provinces, and even a few from Papua New Guinea’s surrounding islands. The groups compete for cash prizes which are awarded for traditional costumes and for performances.

Back in 2017, I attended the festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. The colour and noise were matched by the heat – and I loved every minute of it.

Do come along!

Portrait: Western Highlands man in partial face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Black and White
We arrive outside the show grounds nice and early, which allows me to chat with performers while they get ready (see also: Tribal Expressions and Women of the Western Highlands).

Two Western Highland men face painting, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highland Men Getting Ready
A lot of time and care goes into the face painting. Mirrors are at a premium.

Portrait: Western Highlands man in partial face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Unfinished Paint

Toddler in a grass skirt and face piant, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Baby in the Middle
Children embody the culture they grow up in; inside the festival grounds, even the youngest are included in the parades and performances.

Suli Muli dancers from Enga Province, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Suli Muli
The Suli Muli dancers from Enga Province are called that for the song they sing while banging their kundu drums and jumping up and down. Both men’s and women’s groups wear grass skirts and giant hats made of moss, plant fibres, or even hair.

Portrait: Enga woman, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Enga Woman
With a quarter-million speakers across the Enga Province, this is the largest native ethnic and linguistic group in the country (see: Big Hats and Small Drums).

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and red hat, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highland Man
The Western Highlands, which is where Mount Hagen and this annual festival are located, is one of the most culturally rich regions of the country. We can see similarities – …

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and multicoloured hat, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highland Men
… and differences – in the dance troupes’ costuming and face paint styles.

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and feathered hat, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

War Cries
Face paint was intended to intimidate enemies, and some tribal songs resemble war cries.

Western Highlands dance group in blue skirts and red chest shields, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kunai Group
Feathers are everywhere. Another common element across many of the Western Highland groups is the ritual moka kina, a necklace or pectoral ornament made from shell, ochre and resin, and symbolising wealth.

Fluorescent feathers in the headdresses of dancing Kunai women, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kunai Group – Women
In this tribe, the women’s costumes are completely different from their male counterparts.

Papuan men outside a mesh fence, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Outside the Fence
These days, the Mt Hagen Cultural Show is priced out of reach for many locals, …

Portrait: Papuan man behind a mesh fence, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Papuan Man
… and they have to content themselves with watching from outside.

Papuan women outside a mesh fence, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Papuan Women

Women of the Keps Goose Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Keps Goose Culture Group
Wearing their elaborate headdresses and heavy necklaces of shells and fur, the groups keep coming; …

Portrait: Western Highlands Woman, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highlands Woman
… each group with something different about their face paint (see: Women of the Western Highlands).

Portrait: Western Highlands man in feathers, shells and face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highlands Man

Detail: back ornamentation of tusks and shells, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Tusks and Shells
Complex necklaces of precious shells and boars’ tusks symbolise wealth and power – and bang noisily when the men dance.

Kumipana Warrior Women Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kumipana Warrior Women Group
In a land with little electricity, it is no surprise that most of these groups have no digital footprint! Try as I might, I could find out nothing about this one.

Kumipana Warrior Girl, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kumipana Warrior Girl
This young woman has a lovely smile – making her much less frightening than she is supposed to be.

Kumipana boy with the skull of a small animal on his back, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kumipana Skull Necklace
One of the boys has the skull of a small animal on his back as adornment.

Portrait: Two Western Highland Men in face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Red Black and Yellow
Paints used to be made from local plants and clay; today they are more likely to be store-bought.

Portrait: Woman from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

“Ekawest Culture Group”
That’s what their cardboard sign said, …

Portrait: Child from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Ekawest Youngster
… but I could find no trace on-line.

Portrait: Child from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Tomorrow’s Face
Papua New Guinea is a young country: life expectancy is 65.2, the media age is 22.4, and 35.5% of the population is under 15.

Portrait: Woman from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Betel Smile
I’m always distressed by the effects I see everywhere of chewing betel (Areca catechu).

Portrait: Mother and Child in face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Mother and Child

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and bird headdress, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Bird Colours
I’m amazed that there are any birds left on the island, given the number of bird parts and feathers that go into the costumes, but headdresses are carefully looked after from one year to the next.

Pacific Island Dancers, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Pacific Island Dancers
As the afternoon wears on, the dancers break into party tunes.

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Alexander Pears
This is the face of the future: these young people take real pride in their culture and heritage.

Tribal remoteness and lack of contact with the outside world is a double-edge sword. The Papua New Guinea Constitution explicitly recognises the importance of “traditional villages and communities [remaining] as viable units of Papua New Guinean society”, but with a young and fast-growing population – underserved by health and education services – it is hard to know how they will bridge the gap between an agrarian tribal history and a resource-rich future.

To the Future (text)

In the short term, I hope they can weather the health crisis that seems to be upon them.

Until next time.

 

Pictures: 19August2017

Heart Reef at Hardy Reef, Whitsunday Islands Australia

Heart Reef at Hardy Reef
It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful place to ride-out lockdown than Australia’s UNESCO-listed Great Barrier Reef!

The statistics are staggering: the 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands that make up the Great Barrier Reef stretch across 2300 kilometres (1,429 miles) into the Coral Sea off the northeast coast of Queensland, Australia. Between 24 km (15 mi) and 240 km (386 mi) wide, this – the world’s largest coral reef system – takes in an area of 344,400 square kilometres (133,000 sq mi) and is “the only living thing on earth visible from space”.

But of course, it is not just big: it is stunningly beautiful.

Called one of the seven wonders of the natural world, UNESCO writes that the Great Barrier Reef “is of superlative natural beauty above and below the water, and provides some of the most spectacular scenery on earth.”

One of the principal reasons for affording the Great Barrier Reef UNESCO-World Heritage status in 1981 was its ecological importance. According the the World Wildlife Fund, the region is home to “more than 1,500 species of fish, 411 types of hard coral, one-third of the world’s soft corals, 134 species of sharks and rays, six of the world’s seven species of threatened marine turtles, and more than 30 species of marine mammals, including the vulnerable dugong.” Where else could you find such biodiversity?

The last time I visited the reef was some thirty-years ago. Since then, the eco-awareness of tourism infrastructure has greatly improved: the operator I travelled with on this more recent trip, Cruise Whitsundays, boasts Advanced Eco Certification and partnership with Eco Barge Clean Seas. Their giant pontoon, Reefworld, is moored above the Hardy Reef, allowing visitors close, but relatively non-invasive access to a coral wall, with its myriad of colourful fish and other marine life. I can’t scuba, but snorkelling here in a supplied stinger-suit (Beware jellyfish!) was pure joy. While I didn’t see any of the endangered sea turtles who are often sighted by swimmers here, I did meet an enormous humphead wrasse – an exciting first for me.

Join me on the reef – about three hours off the coast of Australia:

Cruise-Boat Dock, Airlie Beach Queensland Australia

Cruise-Boat Dock
My rainy morning started at the Port of Airlie, where I pick up my transport to the reef, a Cruise Whitsundays catamaran.

Four young adults in Dive Team polo-shirts, Cruise Whitsunday catamaran, Australia

Dive Team
Whether it was the lack of international tourists because of Australia’s closed borders, or the fact that it is rainy season/low season, but the young staff almost outnumbered the travellers.

Boats in the Whitsundays, Australia

Boats in the Whitsundays
The Whitsunday Islands are a sailor’s paradise: 74 tropical islands covered in dense rainforest and bounded by white sand beaches between the coast of Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef.

A Cruise Whitsunday catamaran, the Whitsundays Australia

A Boat Like Ours
Cruise Whitsundays operates island transfers, so we pass a cat exactly like ours as we head out.

Silhouetted islands in the Whitsundays, Australia

Whitsunday Islands

Young woman in a Dive Team polo-shirt, Cruise Whitsunday catamaran, Australia

Dive Team Member

Rocky islands in the Whitsundays, Australia

Rocky Outcrops in the Whitsundays

Hamilton Island port, Queensland Australia

Hamilton Island
Our first stop is the Hamilton Island port, where we exchange passengers to-and-from here and Daydream Island.

Leaving Hamilton Island
Property here is mostly high-end.

Yellow Explore boat, Whitsundays, Australia

“Explore”
We are not the only tour boat in the region.

Small tropical fish underwater, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Underwater Observatory
My first activity, once I arrive at the multilevel Reefworld facility, is to walk down to the underwater observatory.

Black damselfish with yellow tails, underwater, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Damselfish (Neoglyphidodon Melas)

Lifeguard in a tower, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Lifeguard on Duty
Other day-trippers are already in the water, and a lifeguard keeps watch over the areas marked out by swim-rope dividers.

Setting a motor on a dinghy, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Rescue-Ready
There is great attention to safety: we were all coached in basic signals while still aboard our transfer boat.

Blue 2018 Robinson R44 Rotorcraft, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Robinson Helicopter 
I had to stay dry as I had one of the four seats on a scenic helicopter flight.

Brown Boobies in flight, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Brown Boobies (Sula Leucogaster)
While waiting for our turn to load, I watched the seabirds, …

Black Noddy on a heli-deck, Reefworld, Queensland Australia

Black Noddy (Anous Minutus) 
… many of whom weren’t remotely disturbed by our presence.

Aerial view of the helipad on Hardy Reef, Queensland Australia

Helipad in Hardy Reef
As we lift into the air and leave our helipad behind, the reef stretches out in all directions, and the exclusive double-story helipad in the heart of the reef comes into view.

Hardy Reef Helipad from Above, Queensland Australia

Hardy Reef Helipad from Above
The view is stunning, and the the colours change dramatically with every shift in light. What’s even more amazing is that this particular helipad has a luxurious boat shed underneath.

Aerial view of Heart Reef, Whitsunday Islands, Queensland Australia

Heart Reef from Above
Just 17 meters (56 feet) across, Heart Reef is a naturally formed coral outcrop.

Aerial view of Heart Reef, Whitsunday Islands, Queensland Australia

Heart Reef
The now-famous heart-shaped reef was discovered by a local pilot in 1975. For its protection, diving, snorkelling, and swimming in this immediate area is not allowed.

Shuttle boat, Hardy Reef, Queensland Australia

The Next Helicopter Load
The breathtaking scenic flight is short: too soon, the next load of passengers shuttle in …

Portrait: man in a Cruise Whitsundays hat, Queensland Australia

Boat Operator
… and we are transported back to the main float.

Brown Booby in flight, Whitsundays, Queensland Australia

Brown Booby
Sea birds are all around, in the air …

Seabirds on a float, Hardy Reef, Whitsundays, Queensland Australia

Seabirds
… and resting on floats …

Platform and boats at Reefworld, Queensland Australia

The Platform
… as we go back to the pontoon.

Butterflyfish in muted underwater light on Hardy Reef, Whitsundays, Queensland Australia

Butterflyfish from the Sub
The colours of the reef are muted from the semi-submarine, …

Yellowtail fusiliers in the sunlight, Hardy Reef, Whitsundays, Queensland Australia

Yellowtail Fusiliers (Caesio Cuning)
… but amazingly vibrant in the sunlight …

Yellowtail fusiliers in a froth of water, Hardy Reef, Whitsundays, Queensland Australia

Almost Abstract – Feeding Frenzy
… where fish come to the surface to be fed.

Humphead Wrasse and snorkeler in a rash suit, Hardy Reef, Queensland Australia

Me and an Endangered Humphead Wrasse
Of course, the snorkelling was the absolute highlight of the day! I got extra lucky when I met the resident Māori wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus) and one of the scuba photographers with his underwater flash was handy. 

This magnificent world is under threat. Even here in a designated Marine Park with World Heritage status, the reef is challenged by bleaching caused by ever-warming waters, and by reduced water quality because of dredging for port expansions, and waste-water run-off from expanding on-land developments.

Text: Take only Pictures

Add to these stressors increased shipping activities, extreme weather events including floods and cyclone, and even illegal fishing, and it is no surprise that some scientists maintain that the Great Barrier Reef is at a critical tipping point and could disappear by 2050. 

I feel so lucky to have enjoyed it!

I hope it lasts for my children’s children – and yours.

Photos: 16February2021

Kara men and goats silhouetted by sundown, Dus Village Ethiopia.

Men and Goats at Sundown
As the sun drops over the dusty banks of the Omo River, Kara men and boys herd their goats back to the village compounds.

If you are carrying heavy cameras around on your travels, you want to be able to use them to full effect. Chances are there are a some “iconic” shots you hope to add to your collection of images: some of these might be staged, but others arise organically out of everyday activities. I never do enough homework before I go on trips, but I usually have a few rough ideas of images I’d like to make and techniques I want to try or practice.

For most travellers, the focus in the Lower Omo Valley in south west Ethiopia is on the the people. The region is home to 16+ ethnic groups, each with their own distinctive customs, dress, and body art. These people are fascinating to photograph, and the bright – often harsh – equatorial light provides extra challenges to keep photography enthusiasts on their toes.

I was staying several days in the heart of Kara (Karo) territory, a half-day’s drive from the market town of Turmi. Even by Ethiopian standards, this region is hard to get to, and infrastructure is almost completely absent. However, I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour, and we were lodged in relative luxury at a mobile campsite organised by Grand Holidays Ethiopia.

Our camp was close to Dus Village, the largest of three Kara villages in Ethiopia; the majority of Kara people live in South Sudan or the Central African Republic. Some of the villagers helped around the camp, or sat in the shade, engaging in their beading or face- and body-painting. This added to my feeling of being in the middle of things. Our location also meant we were able to visit the village a number of times, and therefore could spend time with the locals as they went about their daily lives (see: Visits to a Kara Village and The Kara of Dus Village).

The relaxed environment made it easier for me to focus on things I wanted to achieve photographically – particularly with respect to experimenting with light. I’ve already shared some of the deliberately underexposed pictures I made of the Mursi people in very bright light (see: Meet the Mursi); I also wanted to work with whited-out backgrounds, and get more practice with off-camera flash.

In addition, I really wanted to make some silhouettes: every afternoon, the boys and young men of the village bring the goats back to their compounds for the night. As the goats cross the flat, dry landscape, clouds of dust rise – filtering the lowering sun and creating a wonderful light. I wanted an image of the goats, and the warriors who look after them, silhouetted against the afternoon sky.

Our local guide knew when things were going to happen, and Ben had plenty of tips on how to make the most of what we were going to see.

Join me in search of portraits and silhouettes:

Portrait: Kara man with an automatic weapon, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Lale America
Lale is a bit of a legend in this region, and a wonderful ambassador for his Kara people. He was still nursing a bullet injury when I met him: inter-tribal warfare is a reality here. Men need to demonstrate their ability to protect the village and herds, and must own an AK47 before they are allowed to marry.

Woman in guinea fowl face paint, Omo River Ethiopia

Woman in Guinea Fowl Spots
The Kara people are well known for their creative face and body paint, and for their love of layered beads. They are closely related to the Benna-Bashada-Hamar group and share many linguistic features and cultural practices with these tribes. The goatskin smocks the women wear is one of the many similarities.

Woman in guinea fowl face paint, Omo River Ethiopia

Woman in Guinea Fowl Face Paint
This was my idyllic campsite on the Omo River, and this gentle Kara woman in her beautiful face paint was a regular visitor. She tied a beaded bracelet on my wrist before we left the camp: it is still intact – a semi-permanent reminder of my time here.

Portrait: Kara woman with dots around her eyes, Omo River Ethiopia

Kara Woman
Back in Dus Village, the face paint is variable, but everyone proudly wears their layers of beads.

Girl with a toddler in front of a Dus Village house, Omo River Ethiopia

Young and Younger
It is not unusual for youngsters to be charged with looking after their younger siblings.

Portrait: Girl with a toddler, Omo River Ethiopia

Girl with a Baby
Walking around the village with an off-camera flash allowed us to make portraits with lovely warm skin-tones.

Older Kara woman carrying wood, Dus Village Ethiopia

Carrying Wood
Every-day life continues around the village, but people are quite willing to pause long enough to face our cameras.

Old Kara man in body paint, with his stick and headrest, Dus Village Ethiopia

Old Man with his Stick
This old man is carrying his walking stick and his wooden headrest.

Portrait: young Kara woman with braided hair, Dus Village Ethiopia

Young Mum
I was fascinated by this young woman’s face and cornrow braids.

Kara people on the banks of the Omo River, Ethiopia

On the Banks of the Omo
The afternoon shadows grow long, but there are still plenty of people wandering around the plateau above the river.

Green crops at the edge of the Omo River, Ethiopia

Afternoon at River’s Edge
Others tend crops in the rich silt at the water’s edge down below.

Kara people outside Dus Village, Ethiopia

Outside Dus Village
It’s a beautiful environment, with stunning mountains in the background.

Two young Kara people in face paint with a kid, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kids and a Goat
The villagers get paid for every photo that is clicked, so the children grab young goats to make themselves attractive to visitors.

Small children on the bank of the Omo River, Ethiopia

Children on the Bank
Other children ignore us, as they sit on the bank watching the river flow.

A Dus Village hut and people silhouetted by afternoon sun, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Sundown Silhouettes
Late afternoon, and the dust in the air makes silhouettes out of the hut and the people – and the water tower in the background.

Old Kara warrior in profile, Omo River Ethiopia

Old Warrior in the Sunset
We’ve met this man before: in silhouette, the feather stands out from the clay skullcap that Kara men wear attached to their hair after a kill to celebrate their bravery.

Silhouettes in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Dusty Sundown

Silhouette of men and goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Men and Goats at Sundown
The dust swirls in clouds, blotting the lowering sun.

Silhouette of men and goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

An Afternoon Sunburst

Silhouette of men and goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Boys, Goats, and a Water Tower
I lay on my belly on the lowest ground I could find to try to capture the silhouettes and the wonderful sky.

Silhouette of men and goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Sunburst on the Horizon
We are very close to the equator: the sun drops quickly. The goat herd also moves quickly across the plateau.

Silhouette of men and goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Silhouettes like Scherenschnitten
The scenes formed by the moving goats remind me of traditional German scissor-cut art.

Silhouette of men and goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Goat Herd with a Gun and a Stick

Silhouette of goats in a dusty sundown, Omo River, Ethiopia

Goats
Although the Kara have a small number of cows, goats are their main livestock.

Water tower silhouetted by sunset on the Omo River, Ethiopia

Sunset on the Water Tower

Men and goats in a dusty twilight, Omo River, Ethiopia

Blue Hour
The sun drops below the horizon and the goats are almost home.

I never really got that one shot I wanted – which is probably why I took so many. I suppose I could have posed some “models”, but where is the challenge in that?

Text: Happy Travels

And, I was going back to try again the next day. 

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 20October2018

  • […] This proximity had allowed us to visit the largest Kara settlement, Dus Village, a number of times. Sadly, it was our last full day there. After a morning of portraiture (see: Tribal Portraits), I was off to make a second attempt  at capturing the daily activity of bringing the goats home at sundown (see: Men and Goats and Dust). […]ReplyCancel