Rotunda in Queens Park, Maryborough Australia

Rotunda in Queens Park
Queens Park in Maryborough was established in 1860, with many of the trees being planted soon after. The lace-trimmed ornamental band rotunda with its cast iron ogees was originally exhibited at the Glasgow International Exhibition in 1888. It was erected in the park in 1890, and I can easily imagine it as a setting for a Mary Poppins fantasy scene.

It was pure serendipity that lead me to spend two nights in the little city of Maryborough, in Southern Queensland, Australia.

I had spent two days on a tour of Fraser Island off Australia’s east coast (see: Living Sands and Rock), and the ferry was scheduled to return to the mainland early evening. I was heading back through Brisbane, some 300 km south, and didn’t fancy driving too far in the dark.

It was after I decided to make nearby Maryborough my stop-over that I read about the Mural Trail. I had really enjoyed hunting out the murals in the little town of Chemainus on British Colombia’s Vancouver Island some years before (see: The Little Town that Did!): so I booked an extra night to allow me a full day in the city.

The Murals of Maryborough were launched in 2015, and the Central Business District now features 37 murals and installations. They depict whimsical and serious stories from Maryborough’s colourful past as an industrial city: building naval ships, sugar-mill machinery, and railway rolling stock; and as one of Australia’s largest ports: serving as a commercial and immigration hub.

Ideally situated on what is now called the Mary River, there is evidence of human habitation in this region stretching back at least 6,000 years. Maryborough was first settled by Europeans in 1847, making it one of Queensland’s oldest and most historic cities. Known as a ‘Heritage City’, it is home to a number of fine old buildings that are listed on the Fraser Coast Heritage Register. And, for serious history buffs, the city and its surrounds is home to a number of quality museums and collections on a range of topics.

Serendipity.

Such a Mary Poppins kind of word …

And, as it happens, P. L. Travers, author of that magical book – a favourite of mine from my late-childhood – was born, as Helen Lyndon Goff, in Maryborough in 1899. She grew up in the Australian bush before going to boarding school in Sydney, and then emigrating to England at the age of 25. Although the fictional Banks family lived in Depression-era London, Travers drew a lot of inspiration from her family and her early surrounds. Tributes to this legacy live on in the city’s buildings, murals, sculptures, and even in the annual Mary Poppins festival in July.

Come with me on a hunt for some stories in art and architecture – and just a smidgen of history:

Clock tower, Maryborough City Hall, Queensland AU

Maryborough City Hall
Any walking tour of Maryborough is best started by collecting maps at the Maryborough Visitor Information Centre, located in the distinctive American-Colonial style City Hall (1908) ;on Kent Street. The elegant clock was added in 1935.

St Paul

St Paul’s Anglican Church
A short walk around the corner, we come to the heritage-listed church (1878) and hall (1921).

Gum tree trunk and the Maryborough Railway Station, Queensland AU

Gorgeous Gum Tree Trunk
I can’t guess at the age of this beautiful eucalyptus tree on Lennox Street, …

Maryborough Railway Station behind a tree, Queensland AU

Maryborough Railway Station
… but the elegant heritage-listed timber railway station complex behind it dates to 1882.

Electric car-charging station, Maryborough Queensland AU

Electric Charging Station
Even a city that takes pride in its heritage can look to the future!

Brave Lexie and

Brave Lexie and ‘Foxie’
– by Brian Tisdall
The first mural I find is on the wall of the Maryborough Fire Station and recognises the bravery of 12-year-old Lex Casperson. In 1927, he and his dog ‘Foxie’ saved his two brothers and a sister from a house fire.

Ellena Street Pavement fly wheel sculpture, Maryborough Queensland AU

Ellena Street Pavement Art and Sculpture
– by Susie Hansen
As a tribute to Maryborough industry, this half fly wheel that was part of the gas engine in the powerhouse of Walkers Ltd – a local engineering company that built ships and railway locomotives – is part of a street installation.

J M Monsour
The Monsour family was at the forefront of Maryborough commerce for many years. Cousins Fred and JM both built two-story shop-houses on Adelaide Street. This one, built in 1914, houses the ‘The Bee Hive’ emporium on the ground floor, and residential accommodation upstairs.

Bronze shoe sculpture, Adelaide Street, Maryborough Queensland AU

Shoes and Stays
– by Mela Cooke / April Spadina
A bronze shoe sculpture sits outside Langers Broadway Shoe Store, a family-run business for almost a century.

The Whip Cracker mural on red bricks, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Whip Cracker
– by Shanay Scarlet
Country towns love their colourful characters! Barbara Dalton was a whip-cracking part of the Dalton Family Whip Cracking Show, which performed at the local markets.

Mirror image of the Prime Minister Fisher mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Prime Minister Fisher
– by Brian Tisdall
Queenslander and founding member of the local Labor Party, Andrew Fisher (1862-1928) served as Australia’s Prime Minister and Treasurer for three terms between 1908 and 1915. We are not looking at the mural – which is across the road – but at its reflection.

The Legends of Moonie Jarl book cover, Maryborough Library, The Legends of Moonie Jarl book cover, Maryborough Library, Queensland AU

The Legends of Moonie Jarl
– by Fiona Foley
First published in 1964, this was the first book written and illustrated by Indigenous Australians. The mural, unveiled outside the library in 2016, depicts the cover of the book of Butchulla creation stories about K’gari (Fraser Island) told and illustrated by Maryborough-born siblings Wilf Reeves and Olga Miller.

Comet Man mural and the laneway behind, Maryborough Queensland AU

Comet Man and Horsburgh Lane
– by Nigel Zschech
While scanning the western skies with binoculars, amateur Maryborough astronomer Mervyn Jones found an unnamed comet on 1 July 1967. In the laneway behind him, you can see the mural dedicated to the endangered Mary River turtle.

The Girl and the Croc mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Girl and the Croc
– by Dan Krause
This whimsical mural in Horburgh Lane was inspired by a photograph taken in the early 1900s of a girl sitting on a four metre crocodile. It is believed the croc was one shot in the Mary River and on display at the Iindah Sugar Plantation in 1903.

Mary Poppins crossing, Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins Crossing
On the corner of Kent and Richmond Streets, the pedestrian crossing lights are little figures of Mary Poppins,

Mary Poppins statue, , Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins Statue
– Dr Rhyl Hinwood AM
… and a statue of the nanny, as she is depicted in the books, watches over. This location was chosen because the building behind – formerly the Australian Joint Stock Bank – is where Travers Robert Goff was an unsuccessful (and, reputedly, alcoholic) bank manager and where author Helen Lyndon Goff (P.L. Travers) was born in 1899.

Old Customs House, Maryborough Queensland AU

Old Customs House
Built in 1899, this beautiful heritage-listed building with its terracotta-clad Dutch-gabled roof now houses a Portside heritage interpretative centre. On the corner opposite, you can see the quirky stainless steel, bronze, copper, and electro-mechanical match-making machine – an installation by artist Russell Anderson.

The Kanaka Memorial, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Kanaka Memorial
In the late 1850s, the Mary River region was found to be ideal for the cultivation of sugar cane. As sugar became more profitable, plantation owners too often relied on importing cheap, sometimes blackbirded, labour from islands in the South Pacific. The first South Sea Islander workers arrived in Maryborough in 1867, and before the practice was stopped in 1904, some 50,000 Kanakas passed through here. This memorial on the Mary River Parklands pays tribute to their cultural heritage, their huge contribution to local economic development, and the appalling ways in which they were treated – leading to their death rates being 400% higher than white Australian workers.

The Post Office and Hotel, Bazaar St, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Post Office (1866) and Post Office Hotel (1889)

Mary Poppins mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins
– by Steve Falco
This mural depicts a number of the magical episodes that take place in the Mary Poppins books.

HealthPro Pharmacy, Maryborough Queensland AU

Colourful Pharmacy

The Dong Sisters mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Dong Sisters
– by Dan Krause
The daughters of Chinese migrants who came to Maryborough in search of gold in the 1870s, Ellen and Maud Dong were born in their parents’ home near here.

Part of the Dong Sisters mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

A Dong Sister
– by Dan Krause
The family turned to market gardening, and in 1915, the sisters took over the business of selling vegetables, plants and seeds to the Maryborough community.

Electricity Box painted as a genie in a turban, Maryborough Queensland AU

Electricity Box
Even the Maryborough electrical boxes have their own personalities.

Old Customs House, Maryborough Queensland AU

“Portside”
Old Customs House is so intriguing: it looks different from every angle!

Flight Commander Frank Lawrence mural Maryborough Queensland AU

Flight Commander Frank Lawrence
– by Benjamin Higgins
This mural on the side of the Maryborough Military and Colonial Museum commemorates the city’s most decorated World War II veteran.

Tubby Clayton mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Tubby Clayton
– by Akos Juhasz
Army Chaplain, Maryborough-born Reverend Philip Thomas Byard “Tubby” Clayton co-founded Talbot House, a place of respite for Allied troops serving on the Western Front during World War I.

St Mary

St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church
The first Roman Catholic services were conducted in 1852 by a visiting Father James Hanley from Brisbane in the house of the local chief constable. The now-heritage-listed St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church was finally built on donated land between 1869 to 1872.

St Mary of the Cross
– by Patrick Phillips
Mary MacKillop was declared Australia’s first saint in 2010. In 1870, the Sisters of St Joseph – the religious order she founded – established a school and residence in Maryborough: the Catholic Church’s first formal education presence in the area.

Clock tower, Maryborough City Hall, Queensland AU

Maryborough City Hall
I end my explorations in the same place I started: at the City Hall.

There are whole chapters behind any one of these, and the many other stories illustrated around the city, and you could easily spend days exploring the richly diverse history.

Text: Happy Rambling

But, I had other places to be, so I pointed the car south, leaving Maryborough behind.

Happy Rambling!

 

Photos: 09June2019

Indian Women in a queue, Haridwar India

Women in a Queue
The crush of people in the streets of Haridwar during a Kumbh Mela is almost unimaginable – but most of them are happy and smiling. Crowds are a such a normal state of affairs during the festival that I can’t remember what these people were lined up for!

It is heartbreaking watching the situation in India with the Kappa and Delta B.1.617 variants of COVID-19 sweeping through the population and devastating communities. First detected last October, the variants – and the societal factors enabling them – have caused a huge second wave of infections and resulted in around 4000 deaths per day at the peak in May (see: Worldometer).

The mass of people who attended the Haridwar Kumbh Mela celebrations between January and April this year has been blamed – at least in part – for this deadly wave. Denial of the event’s potential as a super-spreader has also been rife: back in March, India’s Prime Minister Modi invited devotees to the festival, assuring them it was “clean” and “safe”, and only after the festival’s biggest days – and the illness and hospitalisation of a number of saints and seers – suggested that  attendance should, in future, only be “symbolic”.

As I have written before (see: Haridwar Mela) the Kumbh Mela – literally “festival of the pot” – is one of the most holy Hindu religious festivals and pilgrimages, rotating every three years or so across four sacred river locations. The faithful believe that when they bath in these rivers on the auspicious days, they will be absolved of sins and delivered out of the cycle of birth and death.

They travel all across the country for the privilege – and this year many took COVID-19 home with them, while still denying its existence or impact (see: Guardian: Superspreader).

Of course, many people took heed, and the number of participants was well down on previous melas, with 3.1 million people bathing on the most auspicious day of April 12th. The last time the Kumbh Mela was in Haridwar, back in 2010, an estimated 10 million bathed in the Ganges on the sacred day of April 14th. UNESCO has inscribed the mela as the largest peaceful congregation of pilgrims on earth.

The many pilgrims I met while I was wandering the streets and festival campgrounds of Haridwar in 2010 were open and welcoming. For many of them, it was a once in a lifetime experience, and they were overwhelmingly  happy to be there.

Portrait: Hindu woman in a blue ghoonghat, Haridwar India

Woman in a Blue Ghoonghat
Everywhere I go, I am met with beautiful smiles.

Hindu men in the street reading their papers, Haridwar

Reading the Paper

Hindu sadu in the street, Haridwar India

Sadhu Walking

Indian men in a queue, Haridwar India

People in a Queue
There are crowds everywhere: if I look out of the city …

The backs of Indian people walking in a Haridwar street, India

The Crush in the Streets
… or towards the river-front, the streets are full.

Ghats along the Ganges River, Haridwar India

Along the Ganges
Some of the ghats along branches of the river are quiet – the main bathing sites are elsewhere. That bamboo fencing on the other side of the ghats is for crowd management.

Indian men exchange of money for food, Haridwar India

Food Stall
With millions of people on the move, you need food – and the street venders are doing a brisk trade.

Portrait: Hindu man in white headscarves and glasses, Haridwar India

Man in White

Portrait: Hindu woman in brown scarf and blouse, Haridwar India

Woman in Brown

Portrait: Hindu man in colourful scarves, Haridwar India

Smiling Man in Scarves
I am always touched and amazed by how generous Indian people are: cheerfully interacting with me and allowing me to make their portraits.

Elegant older woman in saffron a ghoonghat, Haridwar India

Elegant Woman in Yellow

Smiling woman in red a ghoonghat, Haridwar India

Woman in Red

Hindu men in the Haridwar camps, India

Men in the Camps
It’s hot on the dusty walkways that lead to temporary camp that houses the mass of humanity.

Sadhu in a saffron topknot, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Saffron
The sadhus fascinate me: …

Sadhu in a yellow turban, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Yellow
… even those travelling together are so different.

Guru in meditation on a platform, Haridwar India

Guru on a Platform
Inside the camp area, gurus, saints, and seers all have their own large tented areas – and their own disciples.

Man doing laundry in a bucket, Haridwar camps, India

Doing Laundry
This might be a temporary space, but everything is quite orderly, and everyday lives continue.

Tent and hanging cloths, Haridwar camps, India

Tent and Cloths

Woman hanging cloths, Haridwar camps, India

Hanging Laundry

Seated smiling sadhu in yellow tilaka, Haridwar camps, India

Smiling Sadhu

Portrait: Sadhu in red and gold tilaka, Haridwar camps, India

Sadhu in Red and Gold

Group of seated men and women in a tent, Haridwar camps, India

Group in a Tent
What amazed me about this group is how well the men sit cross-legged – I don’t think you’d find a group of Westerners who could sit so comfortably!

Portrait: Indian man in white hair and beard with tilaka paste on his hands, Haridwar camps, India

Applying Tilaka

Elegant older Indian in hot pink ghoonghat, Haridwar camps, India

Woman in Pink

Women walking in the lanes between tents, Haridwar camps, India

In the Camps

Mountains in the background of the Ganges, Haridwar

Mountains in the Background
The mountains rise up into the hazy air behind the Ganges River – and the ghats below are crowded with people.

Crowded train platform, Haridwar India

Waiting for the Train
All those pilgrims who come into the city for the mela have to leave again – …

Crowded train platform, Haridwar India

The Long Wait
… so the railway station was packed with travellers and their belongings.

Crowded train platform, Haridwar India

A Train is Coming!

The joy so many people took in attending this religious gathering was palpable. Given that it only happens every twelve years, I can understand people’s reluctance to forgo their planned pilgrimages.

But, this year’s participants and their communities have paid a high price.

 

Photos: 15April2010

Carved marble dome, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Carved Domes
The delicately carved marble domes of the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, high on a hill in Muscat, are a magnificent example of modern Islamic architecture.

Mosques – masjed or masjid – are a prominent feature in any Islamic landscape (eg.: Jama Mosque). With their beautiful domes, their graceful arches, and their soaring minarets, these houses of Muslim worship draw attention upwards and engender admiration, reverence and calm.

During a short stay in Muscat, capital city of the Sultanate of Oman – a Muslim country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula – I spent the morning in two of the cities largest and most beautiful mosques: the Sultan Qaboos Mosque or Grand Mosque, and the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque.

Non-Muslim visitors (in modest dress, of course) are only welcomed into these holy places during restricted hours, but I had a local guide to maximise my time and to explain what I was seeing.

Traditionally, Islam doesn’t allow the depictions of human or animal figures in religious art, in part because of the prohibition against idolatry and the fear that people will respect or worship the creation whilst forgetting the Creator, and in part from the belief that the creation of living things is God’s prerogative as the divine musawwir (maker of forms, artist).

So, the beauty of mosques is in their architectural structures, and in the richly complex and intricate patterns that decorate them.

The typical mosque form includes ten elements (see: Rethinking the Future), comprising: domes, usually as a part the roofs and often with an oculus to let in light; arches, generally marking the entrances to buildings and rooms; muqarnas, a type of honey-combed ornamental vaulting on the underside of domes or arches, from the Arabic word ‘qarnasi ’meaning ‘intricate work’; tall minarets, often with balconies; a mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque which faces Mecca and marks the direction for prayers; Arabesque art; a rectangular or square hypostyle hall; courtyards; gardens; and an iwan, a rectangular hall with walls on three sides and one open side.

The decoration of mosques relies on three principle motifs: complex tessellations of geometric patterns; arabesques inspired by the curving and branching of plants; and stylised calligraphy of religious texts in Arabic.

Exploring the beautiful Indian sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world, and the newer marble-clad Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, we can see all of these elements in situ.

Distant approach to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Approaching the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
On the walk up to the Grand Mosque, we get a sense of space, and can appreciate the architectural elements of the surrounding gardens, the dome, and a minaret. The mosque was built between 1994 and 2001 using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone.

The dome of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque from the entry, Muscat Oman

Dome in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
The beautiful filigree dome rises 50 metres (160 ft) above the floor of the main musalla or prayer hall.

Portrait: Male Omani, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oma

Omani Guide
Our guide, Said (from NTT Oman), wearing his blue and white muzzar, gives us a briefing before we go inside.

Arches inside the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Repeated Patterns 
With the minaret in the background, the arches inside the mosque are reflected in the shiny patterned floor in the foreground.

Lamps and arched ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Lanterns Above
Intricate patterns are everywhere I look – in the ceiling and the filagree lamps above …

Stained glass arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Stained Glass Arch
… and in the colours of the lead-light glass in windows.

Painted Patterned Ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Inlayed Patterned Ceiling

Omani man in a thawb, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Omani Man in a Thawb

Light and Dark

Dome and Blue Sky, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Dome and Blue Sky

Arch and Lamp, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Lamp

 Arch and Minaret, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Minaret

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall
The gold-plated Swarovski crystal chandelier at the centre of the prayer hall is 14 metres (46 feet) tall, and until 2007, was the largest in the world. 

Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arches and Chandeliers
A number of smaller chandeliers of the same design decorate and light the building.

People and the Mihrab, Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Mihrab
The mihrab (or qibla wall) indicates the direction to the Kaaba in Mecca. The honeycomb muqarna above it symbolises the complexity of Islamic ideology.

Outdoor arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch to the Outside
Delicately carved arches frame the surrounding mountains.

Holy Books, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Holy Books

Seated woman, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Woman at Rest

Arched Corridors, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arched Corridors

Outside the prayer hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Gardeners in the Courtyard
The main musalla or prayer hall is 74.4 by 74.4 metres (244 by 244 feet) square, and can hold over 6500 worshippers.

The Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Bright White
A short drive away, the magnificent marble-clad Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque is smaller and newer than the Grand Mosque. Sometimes called the Bahwan Mosque after its benefactors, it sits up on a hill and can be seen from all parts of the city.

Elaborate Interior, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Elaborate Interior

Omani guide with a holy book, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Guide with a Holy Book
Said shows us one of the many ornately decorated religious books at the mosque.

Filigree Lamps in the Ladies Prayer Hall, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Filigree Lamps
Men and women are separated during prayer. The Ladies Prayer Hall is empty and dimly lit when we enter.

Marble portico, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Riwaq
Arcades or porticos, open on at least one side, are a common element in Islamic architecture and design.

Mosque Library
Countless gilded volumes fill the shelves of library.

Portrait: two young Omani men at a library table, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Religious Students
Two of the scholars in the library are happy to take a break from their work and chat with us.

Marble minarets against a blue sky, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Marble Minarets
All the columns and walls of the mosque are cladded with white Italian Carrara marble, so it shines in the morning sun. At night, the mosque is bathed in blue floodlights.

These two mosques are truly beautiful examples of Islamic architecture – and were quite a delicate contrast to the many Omani forts I later visited.

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

 

Pictures: 20October2019

  • […] HallOur first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around […]ReplyCancel

  • […] a day of exploring Muscat at ground level (see: Sacred Spaces and Between the Past and the Future), I had the chance to take a sunset cruise on the Arabian Sea […]ReplyCancel

  • Dhanika Ranasinghe - November 14, 2021 - 8:14 am

    Accidentally dropped into your page while looking for some photos of Al Ameen Mosque. As one of the architects heavily involved in the design & construction of the Al Ameen Mosque, I felt extremely happy to see your post, which is very accurate.

    As you have written, both Grand Mosque & Al Ameen Mosque have somewhat similar architectural language/ features. It is no wonder when both were designed by the same architect !!!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 14, 2021 - 9:04 am

      Hi Dhanika,
      So lovely of you to stop in and leave a comment – how wonderful that you are involved in creating such beautiful buildings! I’m very glad you didn’t find any errors in the text – I am pretty careful. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Tesis Early Oman | geoabbasid's Blog - September 9, 2022 - 10:17 am

    […] Lines and Curves and Sacred Spaces: Two Muscat Mosques, Oman. ursulas weekly – link. […]ReplyCancel

Bright green house front with plants on the porch, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Cheerful House Front
The narrow streets and laneways of Colombo’s Slave Island district are full of colourful buildings that speak to the area’s rich multicultural heritage.

A walking tour with a companion and a camera is a great way to get to know a section of city, and to absorb the local colour and history. 

I was lucky enough to have a friend who had been living and working in Colombo, Sri Lanka, for a few years before I visited the city. As two photography enthusiasts who hadn’t seen each other for many years and had plenty to talk about, we had a wonderful time alternating coffee, lunch, and dinner stops with some serious photo-walking around the city. After a morning of chasing Buddhas in two of Colombo’s very eclectic temples (see: Buddhas of Colombo), and a lunch break, we went for a wander through the suburb of Slave Island.

More commonly known to those who live there as Kampong Kertel or Kompanna Veediya, during the period of British colonial rule (from 1796 to around 1865), this Colombo district was called Slave Island in reference to the slaves held there under Portuguese colonial rule (1505- 1638).

The Portuguese, who first arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, brought around 1,600 ‘Kaffir’ East African slaves from Goa to what was then Ceylon. The popular story is that in the 18th century, under Dutch rule, the Kaffir population had grown to larger numbers, giving them a sense of strength: they mounted an insurrection, resulting destruction of property and deaths. After subduing the riot, the Dutch started housing the Kaffirs on an island in Beira Lake, which at the time was full of crocodiles.

According to one academic article I found (GHCC Annual Lecture 2019), this whole story is apocryphal. But, the name itself stuck – even after the area was connected by bridges and causeways to the rest of the city.

Today, Slave Island is part of Colombo’s Postal District 2, and is predominantly a re-developed commercial area with hotels, shopping centres and street-food stalls. But, there are still narrow laneways packed with colourful homes, and multi-story shop-houses. The area is known for its multicultural heritage, and remains a mix of Malay, SinhaleseTamil, as well as minority cultural groups. IslamicBuddhistHindu, and Christian houses of worship sit in close proximity to each other.

Join us for a wander through the streets and laneways of Slave Island:

Arched windows on an empty building, Colombo Sri Lanka

Empty Building
Many of the buildings in District 2 stand deserted and peeling.

Wall art, Park Street Mews Colombo Sri Lanka

Park Street Mews
Other parts of District 2 have been redeveloped. The Mews is a cluster of old warehouses that has been turned into a vibrant collection of restaurants, bars, and event spaces. (iPhone6)

Golden statue in front of the arched window of the Holy Rosary Church, Slave Island Colombo

Holy Rosary Church
Roughly 11% of Colombo’s population is Roman Catholic. This charming little church in Slave Island is popularly know as the Infant Jesus Church.

Rio Cinema building, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Rio Cinema
I love the textures of this old building. It opened in February 1965 screening South Pacific – and finishing out its days showing pornographic films. The building was looted and burned during the 1983 riots, and now stands as an empty shell and an occasional venue for pop-up exhibitions, art festivals, and music gigs.

Sri Murugan Temple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Sri Murugan Temple
Down a narrow laneway, and with Colombo’s Lotus Tower in the background, …

Murugan Temple Bell Tower, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Bell Tower
… we find Sri Murugan Temple, one of Slave Island’s Hindu temples.

Fat deity with musical instruments, Sri Murugan Temple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

A Musical Deity
Every surface of the temple is decorated with creatures …

Hindu Gods, Sri Murugan Temple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Deities in an Alcove
… and colourfully painted figures depicting Hindu stories.

Al Qadir Hanafi Jummah Masjid, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Al Qadir Hanafi Jummah Masjid
Down another laneway, a beautifully painted mosque calls people to prayer.

Blue House Front, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Blue House Front
So many of the old homes are beautifully kept …

Rough wall in green and purple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Colours on a Wall
… and the colours and textures of the old walls are visually interesting.

Tuk Tuks in the Street, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Tuk Tuks in the Street
Everywhere I look, on the arterial roads …

Child on a Bicycle in a laneway, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Child on a Bicycle
… and down winding lanes, life is happening.

Street Art, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Street Art

Black and white flip-flops on a red step, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Stillife Found : Shoes on the Step
Shoes are not worn indoors in Southeast Asia, so there is footwear to be found on every front step.

Activity in the Street, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

A Hive of Activity

People in the Street, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

In a Hurry

Six seated girls, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

The Cousins
I was really pleased to come across these young girls – and their mothers – before it got too dark.

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a blue top, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Girl in Blue
Cousins and siblings, they are growing up as friends in this small neighbourhood.

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a pink flowered top, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Girl in Florals
They were great fun …

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a green flowered top, Slave Island Colombo

Girl in Green
… and enjoyed posing, …

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a denim top, Slave Island Colombo

Girl in Denim
… and showing the results on the back of the camera to their mothers.

Man on a yellow balcony, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Man on a Yellow Balcony
Overhead, the neighbours were curious.

Sri Lankan woman and girl on a purple balcony, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Woman and Girl on a Balcony

Sundown over Beira Lake, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sundown over Beira Lake
The afternoon grew late, and the sun dropped behind the high rises in the redeveloped end of Slave Island. (iphone6)

There are those that say that the buildings in the remaining old sections of Slave Island are not properly maintained and are run down. There is certainly the risk that the push towards urban renewal will destroy the cohesive streets and charming character of the traditional shophouse-style buildings.

The neighbourhood was a joy to wander through, and the people we met were friendly and welcoming – something often lost in those shiny new high rises.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 10November2018

Crystal Crag and reflection in Lake Mary, California USA

Crystal Crag and Lake Mary
The icy waters of Lake Mary in California’s Mammoth Lakes Basin are a perfect reflecting pool for the unusual granite rock-tower behind.

California’s Eastern Sierras are a jaw-droppingly beautiful outdoor playground.

How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers).

July, when I visited, is the hottest month of the year in these mountains, but the air cools dramatically overnight. It was cold (about 8°C; 47°F) and dark when we got up on my second morning in Coleville. With our cameras and tripods in tow, we set off on a short drive and brisk walk to watch the sun rising over a river bend, high in the Sonora Pass.

Locals will tell you this is the best place in California to live. Mono County is more than 50 times less densely populated than the state as a whole, and clearly appeals to a younger demographic (see: Towncharts: Mono). What it lacks in population, it makes up in unique outdoor beauty. Lee Vining, where we stopped for lunch, for example, is a locality of less than 200 people! But, being on the southwest shore of Mono Lake, near the east entrance of Yosemite National Park, and a short drive from the Bodie State Historic Park (see: Light, Lines and Reflections), it survives on tourism.

The town of Mammoth Lakes, with a population of just over 8,000, is more substantial – but still surrounded by wild beauty that is popular in every season. We spent that evening and the next several days based there before returning to Coleville (population <500).

This is arid country, with most of its precipitation falling as winter snows, so we had crisp, clear skies for our walks among the seasonal flowers. Do join us:

Sunrise view of riverside valley forest, and surrounding mountains, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

A Bend in the River
Drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees cling to the rocky riverbanks here, where a low shutter speed slows down the racing waters. In the predawn light, you can just see the snow on the mountains in the distance.

Closeup: pine needles, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Pine Needles
Looking at the dried out needles at the end of these branches, you can understand how fires tore through this region in August-September of 2020.

Photographer with a tripod, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Photographer in the Frame

Sunrise view of riverside valley forest, and surrounding mountains, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Morning Sun on the Mountains
Just after six in the morning, a golden glow touches the mountains in the background.

Morning sun rays behind a dark hill, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Sun Below the Horizon
Finally! The sun breaks over the trees and sagebrush behind us.

Prospector mannequin, Whoa Nellie Deli, Lee Vining, CA USA

“Prospector Pete”
This is mining country: silver ore was found in Mono County in 1862, and gold was discovered shortly after. The shop at the Whoa Nellie Deli, in Lee Vining where we stopped for lunch on our way to Mammoth Lakes, pays tribute to the old prospectors. (iPhone4S)

A dirt walking track in the Sierras, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Afternoon in the Sierras
Once we are settled into our accommodation in Mammoth Lakes, we set out again on a late afternoon hike.

Trees and mountains, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Trees in the Hills
The skies are clear and the air is hot and dry.

European Starling in a pine tree, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

European Starling – Sturnus Vulgaris
I was so excited to spot some wildlife – until I realised it was an introduced common starling!

Indian Paintbrush, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja
Wildflowers dot the hills and line the tracks.

Hairy Mule’s Ear, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss

White Wildflowers, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

White Wildflowers
I couldn’t find a name for these flowers – ironically, there is a picture of them in the Bishop California wildflower brochure, but even there, they are not labeled.

Upended tree stump, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Natures Artwork

Common gorse, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Gorse
As pretty as it is, common gorse is considered an invasive plant in California.

House rooftops on a ridge, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

A Big Backyard
Even around housing developments, there is a real sense of space.

Stump in Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Stump in the Lake
Our last stop – late in the day – was at Lake Mary, the largest of the of the Mammoth Lakes.

Fly fisherman, Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Fly Fishing
The freshwater lake is popular for fishing …

Fly fisherman, Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Got One!
… for rainbow, brook, and brown trout.

Lake Mary from the west, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Lake Mary from the West
We were there to collect a family member who was practicing for an ironman swim in the mile-wide waters.

Canopy boat on a dock, Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Boat on Lake Mary
On the last day of our stay in Mammoth Lakes, we made another trip to Lake Mary – this time in the early morning. The lake has two marinas, and little rented kayaks were already out on the water. (iPhone4S)

Crystal Crag and reflection in Lake Mary, California USA

Crystal Crag
At 3159 metres (10364 feet), the granite rock tower on Crystal Crag is a challenging, but popular, climb starting from nearby Lake George.

Mountain from Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Kayak on Mary Lake
We opt for more sedate activities.

Kayaks on the shores of Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Kayak Colours
There are plenty of rentals available if you don’t have your own boat. I love the colours and patterns they make in the almost-still waters.

Trees and mountains and Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Lake Mary Stillness
Our endurance swimmer, in his full-body wetsuit against the cold, hardly disturbs the morning peace. (iPhone4S)

California Milkweed, Coleville, CA USA

California Milkweed (Asclepias californica)
Later, as evening falls, we are back in Coleville for a last walk …

Moonrise in the Eastern Sierras Coleville, CA USA

Moonrise in the Eastern Sierras
… and to watch the moon rise over the surrounding hills. (iPhone4S)

I live at sea level these days, and my morning walks are mostly on the flat, so walking in the Sierras where our starting-points were between 1600 – 2900 metres was a challenge!

Text: Take only PicturesBut, it was well worth the effort.

I’m so glad I have the photos to look back on: with our Australian borders locked down tight, it will be a long time before I get back there – or anywhere else!

Happy Travels …

Photos: 15 and 21July2013