Houseboat in the Wetlands Like a dream, a houseboat – and its reflection – glide through the backwaters around Vembanad Lake in Kerala, South India.
I’ve said it before: being on and around the waters of Vembanad Lake in Kerala, South India had a soporific effect on me (see: On the Kerala Backwaters). The heat – and the haze that the heat produced on the water – and soft chugging of the motors of the river traffic had me feeling like I was in a dream. Tropical plants adorned the gardens either side of the waterways, and birds were everywhere. Brightly dressed local residents went about their daily lives in small boats and on walkways at the water’s edge.
I knew this region from other people’s photographs, and was finally getting to visit for myself!
I was travelling with a small group, so all the details were looked after for me. We had spent the night in the beautiful CGH Earth Coconut Lagoon resort in Kottayam district on Vembanad Lake. This area is home to a huge variety of bird life which takes sanctuary in the protected neighbouring wetlands.
The resort offered a guided pre-dawn nature walk, so I set my alarm and got up early to join in. As we walked around the grounds and onto the neighbouring sanctuary, a huge array of birds and plants were pointed out to us. Unfortunately, my telephoto lens is by no means bird-worthy, especially in the low light of morning – but I made several attempts to capture some of the species we spotted.
Mid-morning, our group transferred from the resort to kettuvallam – traditional Kerala houseboats – that were to be our homes for the afternoon and overnight. We cruised slowly through the rivers and canals off Vembanad Lake, taking in the colourful life on the banks of the Pamba River before parking at a mooring as the sun went down.
Join me on the waterways of Kerala.
Indian Crow – Corvus Splendens So ubiquitous around India that the locals call this a house crow or common crow, these greynecked crows struck me as remarkably uncommon! The variants I was used to seeing in North America, Australia – and even Thailand – were pure glossy black.
Asian Openbill – Anastomus Oscitans January is dry season in Kerala, but there is still a lot of water in the landscaped trenches around the resort – making a good spot for a small stork to search for food. The sun hasn’t risen high enough to penetrate the haze and murk of the morning.
Red Water Lily – Nymphaea Rubra The lilies are just opening up to the new day.
Houseboat in the Morning In the low light of morning, Kerala’s famous houseboats are already on the move.
A Stream of Asian Openbills I love the different formations that the birds make overhead in the hazy morning sky.
Asian Openbill – Anastomus Oscitans I manage to pull one in on the zoom; the open beak of this distinctive small stork is just visible.
Indian Pond Heron – Ardeola Grayii Often called a ‘paddybird‘, this small heron is found everywhere in South Asian rice fields.
Purple-Rumped Sunbird – Leptocoma Zeylonica High overhead, we spot a sunbird – probably a male – in the trees.
Powder-Puff Tree – Barringtonia Racemosa The flowers in the resort gardens are much easier to catch!
Kingfisher on a Pole The poles in the floating mass of water hyacinth provide a great perch for birds on the lookout for food.
Two Men in a Boat There is a steady stream of boat traffic on the water. I love how the background fades into the heat-haze.
Full Boat Some of the beasts seem dangerously overloaded!
Cattle Egret – Ardea Ibis I love watching these birds in flight.
Like a Minimalist Painting
Viewing Platforms There are a few hides in the wetlands for serious bird watchers.
Cannonball Tree – Couroupita Guianensis I love these unique flowers. But, I keep watch for any over-hanging fruit: they are called ‘cannonball’ for a reason!
Life on the Water’s Edge Later in the day, we boarded our small houseboats, and set off through the Alleppey Backwaters.
Houseboats on the Pamba River These popular waterways are a labyrinthine network of interconnected canals, rivers, lakes, and inlets, stretching over 900 kilometers.
Pedestrian Bridge The waterways are bustling with movement and crowded with buildings.
Couple on the Bridge
Houseboats and Transport Boats
Women Walking on the Edge Everywhere we look, there is colour and activity.
Women Working The waterways are the centre of daily life.
Doing Laundry
Colourful Tourist Boats Tourism is a major contributor to Kerala’s income.
Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus) – I Think? The sky is alive with raptors.
Houseboat at Rest As the day draws to a close, the the houseboats pull into their allocated berths for the night.
Boatman The boatmen make sure the vessels are securely tied up …
Sundown on the Houseboats … and the waterways go quiet.
We ate our wonderful South Indian meal on our houseboat as the sun went down over the Kerala Backwaters and then spent the night in air-conditioned comfort.
The Water Pavilion of Lotus Fragrance The Chinese Garden of Friendship in Darling Harbour was gifted to Sydney by her Chinese sister-city of Guangdong in Guangzhou (Canton). It was formally opened in 1988 during the Bicentennial celebrations – and is where my husband and I later married.
I ♥️ Sydney!
Not only is it an aesthetically beautiful city, but every part of it is home to encapsulated memories I’ve collected over many years.
I get into Sydney at least four times a year: for dance, music, theatre, and/or to catch up with former work friends. One of the great joys of not living in the suburbs anymore is having to stay in the city itself for events – rather than just making the long drive in from the outskirts. This makes city trips events in themselves.
I was cleaning up some photo catalogues and came across a set of pictures from a trip many years ago. We had only recently moved back to Australia and had some appointments in the Central Business District. So, we made the day’s drive north, and stayed in nearby Haymarket.
Haymarket is home to Sydney’s vibrant Chinatown and some of the city’s best markets. It is a short walk from the iconic Town Hall and Queen Victoria Building, and next door to the wonderful Darling Harbour.
Darling Harbour is a waterway that runs along the west of Sydney’s city centre. The lands either side have been re-invented many times over the years, but have operated as a pedestrian and tourist precinct since the 1980s. When my children were school-aged, we would visit regularly during school holidays to take part in the free entertainment that was on offer in the summer. I still like walking around there, any time of year (see: Searching for Christmas Spirit).
The Darling Harbour precinct is currently home to restaurants, bars, a casino, entertainment venues, convention and exhibition spaces, a nightclub, the Australian National Maritime Museum, an IMAX theatre, a Madame Tussauds, the Wildlife Sydney Zoo, and the Sea Life Sydney Aquarium among other attractions. My favourite place within it is the Chinese Garden of Friendship – which is where my husband and I had our wedding.
Join me for a few photographic impressions and memories:
George Street From our hotel eyrie n …
Hay Street … we can watch the world below.
“The Challenge” Our morning stroll takes us through the Hordern Arcade in World Square, where we stop to admire the bronze bull created by Alan Somerville in 1999. The plaque reads: The bull, a mythological beast, is the embodiment of spirituality and symbolises the qualities of strength, endurance and tenacity necessary in meeting the many challenges encountered in achieving success.
Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca These adaptable native birds, locally known as ‘bin chickens’ for their propensity to search for food in the rubbish, are a familiar part of the Australian natural landscape.
Willows Weeping The tranquil Chinese Friendship Gardens are a tribute to Chinese heritage and culture, and a recognition of that community’s contribution to commercial and social structures in Australia.
The Twin Pavilion The heritage-listed 1.03-hectare (3-acre) garden is modelled after the classic private gardens of the Ming dynasty in China.
Stone Pagoda The garden combines the elements of water, plants, stone, and architecture, attempting to balance the contradictory opposites of yin and yang.
Reading Brook Pavilion Every window frames a scene.
Pomegranate –Punica Granatum The garden was designed and planted by Chinese landscape architects using plants sourced in New South Wales – including many exotic species.
Autumn Zephyrlily – Zephyranthes Candida
Lily Pond
Around the Pond It truly is a tranquil place …
Rooftops and Well-Groomed Plants … and feels miles away from the modern bustle of Sydney.
Gabe in the Gardens We always took pleasure in revisiting.
Almost Abstract – Gardens through the Glass Every new view is a delight.
The Dragon Wall From across the pond, we can admire the ornate, double sided and free-standing glazed terracotta screen. From the government of Guangdong, the wall depicts two dragons – representing New South Wales and Guangdong – in search of the pearl of wisdom. In the background, Sydney Tower rises against the sky, as if to remind us where we are.
Water Park Especially in the heat of summer, the water park in Darling Harbour is attractive to visitors – particularly young ones.
Intermittent Water Spouts These dancing waters were one of my children’s favourite features in the extensive playground area.
The Royal Clock in QVB The nearby Queen Victoria Building is a beautiful block-long heritage-listed late-nineteenth-century building, full of very up-market shops and some interesting novelties. On the hour, the Royal Clock on the upper level rotates through six scenes from English royal history. This one is the execution of King Charles I in 1649.
King Harold Dying at the Battle of Hastings in 1066 Every scene is mesmerising: each mechanical performance is heralded and accompanied by trumpeters at the tops of the clock’s outer turrets.
Queen Victoria Outside the building, the Queen is not amused, and the sky darkens.
We hightailed it back to our hotel before the rains came.
L’Acteur Grec – The Greek Actor – Arthur Bourgeois (1838-1886) This is Paris in autumn: the timeless statues and monuments stand against the golden leaves and rainy skies. Here, in the Luxembourg Garden, a wonderful bronze man rehearses his lines with the dome of the pantheon in the background.
I had forgotten how much I love Paris!
It felt like forever since I had spent time in that wonderful city – and indeed, my last post from there dates to the summer of 2010 (see: Just another Monday Morning) .
These days, I never know how I’m going to feel after squashy plane trips. So, to give myself potentially-needed recovery time after the long travel time from Australia to Europe, I booked two nights in Paris before my onward connections. I found accommodation in the 5th arrondissement: in the heart of the city and within walking distance of the major sights and the direct metro line to and from the airport.
It was a northern autumn, and the skies threatened rain most of my stay. I made the decision to leave the cameras packed, and set off on foot with just my iPhone15Pro – and an umbrella just in case!
Come explore some central Parisian streets and gardens:
People in Motion My plane landed ridiculously early – and by 7am my bags and I were on the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) in the Charles de Gaulle Airport and ready to speed our way into the city.
Welcome to Paris! As I rolled my bags through the streets of the city, I couldn’t help but admire the historic architecture – and remember my first-ever trip to the city, which was before bags had wheels! This, the Church of the Val-de-Grâce, was built between 1645 and 1665, and is part of the Museum Of The Armed Forces Health Service complex.
Part of the Public Consciousness Joan Of Arc is known as the Liberator of France. This depiction, by Émile François Chatrousse (1829-1896) is on the Boulevard Saint-Marcel.
In the Jardin des Plantes. Old monuments and tributes to famous personages are everywhere. This one is French sculptor Emmanuel Frémiet (1824 – 1910) by Henri Léon Gréber (1854 – 1941).
The Mexican Hothouse It is hard to believe that this beautiful glass-and-metal confection is almost 200 years old! Designed by Charles Rohault de Fleury (1801 – 1875), it was finished in 1836.
Naturalist Georges Louis Leclerc the Comte De Buffon (1707 – 1788) by Jean Marius Carlus (1852 – 1930) The Jardin des Plantes started life as a medicinal garden in 1640 under King Louis XIII. Later, under the direction of the noted naturalist Buffon, who ran the gardens from 1739 to 1788, they became Europe’s most eminent centre of scientific study of natural history.
Who knew there were so many kinds of Sunflowers? The gardens make for a pleasant environment to walk off jet lag!
A Paris Rain Fortunately, the afternoon rain didn’t last much longer than my coffee!
A Treat on every Building
An Umbrella in the Autumn Rain
The Pont Marie from the Quai des Célestins With the Seine meandering all through the city Paris, it is a city of waterways and old bridges.
A Just Reward I’m so glad I’m no longer a strict vegetarian! Paris is all about food – and this confit du canard was wonderful!
Beautiful Buildings against the Sky
Église Saint-Médard France is still largely Catholic and there is a church on every corner.
Mother Mary The Chapel of the Virgin is an 18th century addition to this 15th century church.
The Archangel and the Saint This bas-relief by Adolphe Verrebout (1847 – 1892), shows Saint Michael appearing to Joan of Arc.
Au Jardin De Mouffetard One of the many things I love about France is the small markets with fresh food.
Oysters at the Poissonnerie Saint Médard All the shops invite you to think about your next meal.
Stone Dome The dome of the monumental Panthéon commands attention at the top of little Rue D’Ulm..
The Panthéon This monument, built between 1758 and 1790, has a confused history. Originally meant to be a church dedicated to Saint Genevieve, it later became a mausoleum for the remains of distinguished French citizens – including Voltaire, Emile Zola, Jean Moulin and Marie Curie.
Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712—1778) by by André Bizette-Lindet (1906 – 1998) In the Place du Pantheon, a sculpture depicts the influential Swiss-born philosopher, writer, and political theorist.
The Faune Dansant The Dancing Faun by Eugène Louis Lequesne (1815 – 1887) is one of many sculptures in the gardens.
Gendarmerie Two police officers walk the beat in the in the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg.
La Fontaine Medicis One of the features of the Jardin du Luxembourg is the beautiful Medici Fountain. Built in 1620, the fountain – like the nearby palace and the garden as a whole – was originally commissioned by Marie de’ Medici, the widow of King Henry IV of France and the regent for King Louis XIII. Today, the gardens and palace are owned by the French Senate.
Dôme des Invalides This is a sight I look for on all my stays in Paris: the gilded dome of the tallest church building in the city.
Hôtel National des Invalides Les Invalides was originally a hospital and a soldiers’ retirement home. Today, the complex also contains museums and monuments relating to French military history.
Plat du Jour Every meal in Paris is an event! I found a busy restaurant, and treated myself to the daily special: a wonderful hot goat’s cheese salad, followed by this sea bream fillet with roasted vegetables in a citrus sauce. Delicious!
Next Stop: La Tour Eiffel The iconic tower is a must-see in Paris.
Olympic Remains Paris was still on a high following their hosting of the Summer Olympics.
The Eiffel Tower I’ve been up the tower in the past, so I was happy to admire it from outside the barriers.
La Dame de Fer – The Iron Lady The lacy metal tower was designed and built by engineer Gustave Eiffel (1832 – 1923) for the 1889 World’s Fair and to mark the centennial anniversary of the French Revolution.
Sous la Pluie In the evening it rained again – but that only helps the lovers!
They do say Paris is for lovers – but then, who doesn’t love Paris?
I certainly smiled the whole time I was walking through the elegant streets and parks.
Mother and Cub Grizzly You could hear a pin drop on our idling boat in Khutzeymateen Inlet as we watched a female grizzly with her male cub digging for clams on the foreshore in the distance.
We’re going on a bear hunt.
We’re going to catch a big one.
What a beautiful day!
We’re not scared.
– Michael Rosen
We were going on a bear hunt – in search of grizzlies (Ursus arctos horribilis) in the Canadian wilds – from the safety of the water.
I had booked myself onto a cruise with Prince Rupert Adventure Tours, out of the northern-coastal British Columbia city of Prince Rupert (see: Butze Rapids) and into the Khutzeeymateen Provincial Park, also known as Khutzeymateen/K’tzim-A-Deen Grizzly Sanctuary.
Our 72-foot catamaran, the Inside Passage, headed out of rainy Prince Rupert, north through Chatham Sound, and followed the Khutzeymateen Inlet into the rugged coastal mountain valley that currently houses a population of approximately 50 grizzly bears.
Khutzeymateen is a native Tsimshian word meaning ‘a confined space for salmon and bears’. The lands here have been the traditional territories of the Coast Tsimshian (Metlakatla and Lax Kw’alaams First Nations) since time immemorial. In 2008, the Khutzeymateen Inlet Conservancy was established to ensure the protection of grizzly habitat, while maintaining the traditional social, ceremonial, and cultural land uses of the First Nations.
The Conservancy also oversees the development of responsible recreational opportunities and sustainable resource use. Commercial bear-viewing guides, like those I was travelling with, are licenced through the park management.
Let’s go hunt some bears!
Ferry Port It was a rainy morning on the harbour. Prince Rupert is the rainiest city in Canada, so you have to expect it!
Young Guide Once installed on our comfy passenger catamaran, we are given the usual briefing about facilities and safety aboard the vessel.
Green Island We pull away from the port and into the cloud-covered, island-dotted, rainy channels.
Tall Trees and Rough Rocks This is wild country: there are no roads and very few small communities.
On the Bridge Our man on the helm keeps a close watch on the waters.
The Texture of Trees
Bear in the Distance How sharp are your eyes? Our first grizzly is a long way away, ambling through the impossibly-green grass on the shoreline of our first cove.
Reflections of Trees As we back out of the cove, I amuse myself by enjoying the patterns of the old growth temperate rainforest on the waters.
Khutzeymateen Chanel The mountains – some of them snow-dusted – rise steeply all around us.
Almost Abstract : Waves on Shore The colours and patterns in the waters are magnificent. Those are Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) and Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis) growing to the water’s edge.
Nature’s Artworks : Reflections in the Wake There are those who believe that the fluid patterns reflected in BC waters had a strong influence on traditional native art.
Mountains Behind The landscape is so large!
The Inside Passage Our cheerful yellow catamaran stands out against the overcast sky.
Ship’s Bell
Bear on the Shoreline Our eagle-eyed skipper has found another bear – this one close enough I can see the frightening length of its claws!
Bear on the Move The local grizzlies have not been out of hibernation long; they prowl the shoreline in search of food and mates. The speed with which this one moves gives me pause!
Boats and Boathouse
Lens Envy! Our skipper is carrying some heavy fire-power – a 400mm lens with an extender. I’m so jealous! There was a cushioned cradle on the bow so he could stabilize the heavy lens and the resulting shots were beyond anything I could manage with my little rig!
Keeping Watch The staff know which of the bears have been seen recently, and keep a close watch on the shoreline.
Wake Patterns
Landscape on the Sound
Chewing Grass I think this beautiful blond bear was my favourite.
Teeth S/he might be grazing on the rich grasses in the the intertidal wetlands, but you can just see the long incisors and imagine the damage they could do.
Grizzly in the Grass We never got very close to the next bear, who was eating grass next to a pretty creek.
Watching a Bear You can see how far away we’ve had to stop! It is important that the visitors don’t disrupt the bears’ natural behaviours.
A Mouth full of Grass
Mother and Cub This duo was digging for clams – another popular grizzly food.
Bald Eagles Incoming When we were almost back at port, we were cued to expect something special. The sky above us filled with raptors.
Bald Eagle Diving The operators had thrown some pork fat into the waters, and bald eagles swooped in from all directions to feed.
Competition The fight for the scraps was fierce!
Eagle on the Wing The speed and focus of the incoming birds was absolutely exhilarating!
Back in Prince Rupert Harbour
Watching the grizzlies was a special privilege, and we were very lucky to see as many as we did.
I was just as taken by the waterscapes along the way – and watching those bald eagles swoop and dive was absolutely thrilling!
A Winding Street in Lefkes Even when the autumn evening light is fading; even where the paint and wash are peeling, Paros in the Greek Cyclades is a joy.
I loved Greece!
Each day seemed better than the last.
A trip to the Greek Cyclades had been on my wish-list forever. I finally managed to get there as tourist destinations were welcoming travellers back after long months of Covid-19 restrictions. With a small group organised by Intrepid, I had arrived on Paros by ferry one warm autumn day and had spent the early afternoon exploring the island’s main town of Parikia (see: A Slice of Paradise). It was already after 5PM when we all set off in a minibus to have a look at the rest of the island.
But, even in September, the days are long over the Aegean Sea: we were bestowed with beautiful weather and nice light as we drove to the centre of the island to the mountain village of Lefkes, and then north to the harbourside fishing village of Naoussa (Naousa).
Both villages date back to medieval times and are best explored on foot.
The tiny village of Lefkes (population: 611) is quintessentially Cycladic, with narrow laneways of whitewashed buildings trimmed in blue. Once the capital of the island, many of the old and somewhat dilapidated buildings seem deserted – but even they are picturesque and framed by colourful splashes of bougainvillea.
Naoussa is a beautiful fishing village sitting on a large bay in the northern part of the island. The remains of a late 13th century Venetian castle in the port attest to the town’s long history. Naoussa is larger (population: 3,134) and more upmarket than Lefkes: the waters are crowded with colorful wooden boats and the foreshore is packed with tables belonging to the restaurants and bars fronting the harbour. Its charming winding streets and alleyways are dotted with tiny shops, bars, and restaurants. After dark, the nightclubs cater to the party crowd.
Come explore:
Ancient Olive Tree We stopped briefly in the Anelipsi area, outside Lefkes, to admire an ancient olive tree. I don’t know how old it is – there is one on Crete estimated to be to be 4,000 years old – but it is certainly battle-scarred. (iPhone12Pro)
Church of Agia Triada We also have views over the main church of Lefkes: the unique Greek Orthodox Church of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), built from marble between 1830 and 1835.
Lefkiano Restaurant Courtyard Lefkes is an archetypal Cycladic village boasting small squares, narrow and twisting stone laneways, traditional whitewashed buildings, and plenty of contrasting blue trim.
Duranta Erecta Flowering plants and shrubs are everywhere.
Another Square Streets wander of in all directions and every square invites you to shop or sit for a wine or coffee.
Local in a Laneway
Ruins Even the tumbled-down abandoned buildings have charm!
Cats on the Stairs There are cats everywhere in Greece – and they all look well cared for.
Paved Laneway The historic Church of Agia Triada commands attention in the small town. (iPhone12Pro)
Young Women in the Square
Church of Agia Triada The impressive Byzantine basilica has been listed as a monument of special significance by the Greek Ministry of Culture. Much of the main building is made from the locally-sourced precious Parian marble, known for its fine-grained semi-transparent luminescence.
Belltower The elegant bell towers stand out against the Aegean sky.
Orthodox Church in the Countryside From the hillside, there are views back down over village churches …
Windmill on the Hill … and up over the stone fences to a traditional whitewashed windmill.
Paved Street Even in the evening shadows, the bougainvillea brightens the narrow streets.
Scenes From A Bus : Rocky Walls along the Byzantine Road Back in the bus and heading north, we were able to see the ancient road that links the towns of Lefkes and Prodromos. Dating to 1000 CE, the road, which is paved with marble, is now a popular hiking trail. (iPhone12Pro)
Sunset on the Harbour We arrived in Naoussa just in time to watch the sun drop over the harbour.
Naoussa Town Square The falling light doesn’t slow the activity in the streets. (iPhone12Pro)
The Venetian Fort In the old fishing harbour, tourists clamber over the remains of a 15th century Venetian fortress.
Agios Faneromeni (Panagía) Orthodox Church Warm light bathes all the white buildings that line the waterfront.
Greek Orthodox Chapel of Agios Nikolaos This small church right on the harbor serves sailors in what is still a traditional fishing village. The courtyard is full of early diners from a nearby restaurant.
Naoussa Harbourfront The waterfront is packed with buildings, and the sea wall is full of restaurant tables.
Evening over Naoussa
Sunset on the Naoussa Harbour The water is quiet as the evening puts on one last display of magnificent colour.
It is time for us to return to our hotel in Parikia.
I absolutely loved Paros with its charming Cycladic villages and wonderful landscape.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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I absolutely loved Paros with its charming Cycladic villages and wonderful landscape..jpg)
