Portrait: young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Hindu Priest Making Offerings
Time and space have a different meaning on the banks of the river named for the Sacred Mother Ganga. Every nook and cranny along the ghats of Varanasi houses a priest or acolyte or religious ascetic, engaged in meditation or study or constructing ritual offerings.

I was already in love with India when I made my first visit to Varanasi. That magical northern city exceeded my already-high expectations and left an indelible impression.

The spiritual capital of India, Varanasi (Benares, Banaras, Kashi), sits on the left bank of the Ganga (Ganges) in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh. Dating back to the 11th century B.C, it is one of the seven sacred Hindu cities. We first arrived at the ghats, the stairs leading down to Ganges, in the dry heat of the afternoon. The air seemed to vibrate with electricity, and in this holiest part of the holiest of cities, it was easy to believe that this energy can infuse you with its special magic.

Varanasi presents a unique combination of physical, metaphysical and supernatural elements. According to the Hindu mythology, Varanasi liberates soul from human body to the ultimate…. a dip in the holy Ganges …is believed to absolve one from all sins.

Certainly, the Varanasi ghats attract a range of people – most with lifestyles very different from my own. I found myself slowing down and musing about the nature of human existence and endeavour. As I watched people engaging in their spiritual practices, I had a visceral understanding of how different our perspectives on the world, and our place in it, really can be.

It was a long time ago now. If there is an up-side to our Covid-closed borders and seemingly endless lock-downs, it is the time to revisit old photos and relive memories.

Of course, as I’ve said before, going back to old photos is always risky! I’ve reprocessed these, as when I took them I was not using Lightroom. They were taken on an old camera that was always a bit ‘soft’ on focus, and some of my settings were questionable. But, I hope they convey something of the pulsating heat, and the magical spirit of the place.

Revisiting them certainly put a smile on my face.

Golden grain fields in Uttar Pradesh, India.

North Indian Fields
As we ride the rails southeast from Delhi to Varanasi across the fertile Indus-Gangetic Plain, I’m reminded of how much space there still is in the second-most populous country in the world.

Harvested grain in Uttar Pradesh, India.

Grain Stacks
Indian agriculture is labour-intensive, employing over 40% of the country’s workforce.

Schoolgirls in uniform, Varanasi, India.

Schoolgirls
By contrast to the open countryside, the streets of Varanasi are narrow and full of daily life, …

Buildings on the ghats, Varanasi, India.

On the Ghats
… and the buildings on the ghats stretch off shoulder-to-shoulder into the hazy distance.

Boats on the Assi Ghat, Varanasi, India.

Boats on Assi Ghat
The ghats are haphazard, and dirty – and quite magical. Going from south to north, Assi Ghat is the first of the 88 or more.

People in a row boat on the Ganges, Varanasi, India.

Boats on the Ganges
The heat and the smells envelope me as I watch life unfold.

Three wooden rowboats on the Ganges, Varanasi, India.

Three Boats on the Ganges

Ganga Mahal from the ghat, Varanasi, India.

Gangamahal Ghat
The unique old buildings add to the feeling of timelessness. The Ganga Mahal (palace) was built in 1830 CE by the Narayan dynasty.

Man in seated in a niche, Tulsi Ghat, Varanasi, India.

Man in a Niche : Tulsi Ghat
Every niche houses a mystic …

Orange shrine, Varanasi Ghats, India.

God in a Niche
… or a sacred shrine.

Young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Priest Making Offerings
A bit further along, I came upon a young Hindu priest constructing the complex offerings to the Mother. We silently acknowledged each other, and he went back to his work as I watched and photographed.

The hand of a Hindu Priest placing incense, Varanasi ghats, India

Burning Incense

Young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Flowers and Smoke
The offerings contain a number of elements – which were later explained to me by a lovely young woman in Haridwar (see: Street Scenes and Portraits).

Hindu prayer book behind a seated priest, Varanasi ghats, India

Hindu Prayer Book

Young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Hindu Priest
The process continued, and the candle and incense burned. The kumbh (copper pot) sits ready with sacred water from the filthy river.

Pilgrims walking on the Varanasi ghats, India

Pilgrims on the Ghats
Everywhere I look, there are pilgrims and sadhus with their swags; who knows how far across India they have travelled to be here.

Vaccharaja Ghat buildings, Varanasi, India

Candy Colours on Vaccharaja Ghat

Boy on a bicycle, Varanasi ghats, India

Everyday Life

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Boats tied Up
All along the cluttered waterfront, dilapidated wooden boats wait for work.

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Pastel Paint
I am captivated by the colours …

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Rough Wood
… and the textures.

Buffalo on the Varanasi ghats, India.

Buffalo on the Ghat
Buffalo wander freely …

Cows and boats on the Varanasi ghats, India.

Cows on the Ghats
… and cows sit contentedly at the water’s edge.

Buffalo in the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India.

Buffalo in the Ganges
This stretch of river near the cremation ghats is full of buffalo escaping the heat, …

Boy jumping into the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India.

Boys Splashing in the Ganges
… and the local children join them.

Man bathing on the , Varanasi ghats, India.

Ablutions
To bathe in the Ganges is to wash away your sins – making it an attractive proposition in spite of the unholy pollution of the water.

Clay cups of water and milk, Varanasi, India.

Clay Cups
This was the trip that I learned how wonderful masala chai – made with buffalo milk – truly is. Like the milk and water in this picture, it is served up in little single-use clay cups: when you finish, you smash your container on the ground.

Dog on the steps, Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Dog on the Ghats
They told me that the masala chai here at Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat was the best: I can’t disagree!

Shiva shrine, Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Shiva Shrine
I sat in the shade with my spiced tea, marvelling at the confusion of the colours …

Portrait: Indian Woman in a red ghoonghat, Varanasi ghats, India.

Indian Woman in Red
… and the welcoming warmth of the smiles.

Portrait: solemn Indian girl, Varanasi ghats.

The Chai Wallah’s Daughter
Education is compulsory and free in India for children aged 6 to 14, but opportunities are still limited, depending on the class you are born into.

Revitalised by my rich tea, I continued my explorations (watch this space!).

Given the opportunity, I would go back in a shot. Magic. Just magic. People say that there is something in the air in Varanasi. Certainly, my impressions of the city have never left me.

Until next time,

‘Let it be so.’

Photos: 09April2010

  • […] I was captivated: the dry heat was uplifting, the air was electric, and the people were both fascinating and welcoming (see: Life on the Ghats). […]ReplyCancel

  • Graham - June 5, 2024 - 1:14 pm

    I arrive in Varanasi on October 9
    I can’t wait to experience meeting a Hindu priest this will fulfil my life I have 5 weeks to see and pray 🙏ReplyCancel

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
Could a wildflower be more elegant? The Sierra lily, also known by the common name Kelley’s lily, grows up to two meters tall in the wetlands of the High Sierra.

There is a special magic about alpine flowers in their natural habitats!

They are ruggedly unique, suited to their particular alpine environments, and yet delicate in their beauty. Whether it is in the Swiss Alps (see: Rainy Alpine Hillsides) or the Snowy Mountains of Australia (eg: Alpine Flowers and Summer Snow), there is something uplifting about fields and meadows of seasonal wildflowers.

So, I was thrilled when a friend of mine wanted to organise a week or two of wildflower photo-walks near her homes in the Eastern Sierras while I happened to be in North America. When the time came, our other intended photography-companions ended up elsewhere, so it was just the two of us following the hiking trails and seeking out the sights of Mono and Madera Counties, high in the mountains of California (see: Waters and Wildflowers).

Of course, you can never predict the best time for wildflowers, as they depend on the elevation, the depth of the winter snows and length of the winter season, and the timing and generosity of the spring showers. Still, California’s tourism trades on “blooms” and advertises the flowers of Mono County as arriving late May, hitting their peak late in June, and lasting through July. Hedging our bets, we’d planned my trip for mid-July, and the flowers did not disappoint.

We were based in the town of Mammoth Lakes, and had spent the morning hiking and photographing in the Devils Postpiles National Monument (see: Devils Postpiles and Rainbow Falls). From there, it was a short drive to the Red’s Meadow Area of Inyo National Forest. This is access point for the Agnew Wildflower Loop, an easy one kilometre (0.6 m) loop through lush, upper-montane grasses, and a variety of wildflowers.

When I’d had my fill of lilies in the Agnew Meadow, we drove the twenty minutes across to the base of the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, and took the gondola up the hill to see what was blooming there.

Agnew Meadow is at 2316 m (7600 ft) elevation; the base of Mammoth Mountain is 2743 m (9000 ft), and the top of the Panorama Gondola is 3369 m (11,053 ft). Naturally, flowers growing so high above the tree line are going to be compact and low to the ground, and therefore less ‘showy’ than the Sierra lilies on the Agnew Wildflower Loop. I loved them anyway – but was disappointed not to be able to get names for most of them!

Join me for some summer blooms in the Eastern Sierras:

Signboard: Agnes Meadows Wildflower Walk, Inyo National Forest California USA

Agnes Meadows Wildflower Walk
This area is known for larkspur, lupine, lilies, columbine, and Indian paintbrush – some of which we didn’t see.

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
To my mind, the beautiful blooms of the Kelley’s lilies more than made up for any missing flowers in the mix!

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

A Single Bloom
The large, bell-shaped, yellow to orange flower has six long stamens hoping to attract swallowtail butterflies for pollination.

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

An Inflorescence
Each lily stem can produce up to 25 golden flowers.

Swamp Onion in bloom, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Swamp Onion (Allium Validum)
The common swamp onion – also known as wild onion, Pacific onion, and Pacific mountain onion – is native to the west coast mountains of North America.

Common yarrow in Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Common Yarrow – Achillea Millefolium
A member of the aster family, the tall, white yarrow has a long blooming season.

Purple Monkshood, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Monkshood – Aconitum Columbianum
I had trouble distinguishing the monkshood from the larkspur and lupine, but – based on the leaves – I’m pretty sure I’m right about this one.

Golden Buttercups, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Golden Buttercups – Ranunculus Occidentalis

Yosemite Onion, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Yosemite Onion – Allium Yosemitense
Or another swamp onion? I’m going by the colour, but to my eye, it could be either – or something else entirely!

California corn lily, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

So Pretty – So Poisonous!
The California corn lily or California false hellebore (Veratrum californicum) is a tall, pretty, and extremely poisonous plant native to these hight mountain meadows.

The mountains of Inyo National Forest California USA

Over the Mountains
As we drive out of the meadow and back to Mammoth for lunch before ascending the mountain, we get views over the rocky crags and pine forests.

A Panorama Gondola car, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Panorama Gondola
The cable car up Mammoth Mountain takes us from 2743 m (9000 ft) to 3369 m (11,053 ft).

Empty ski chairs, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Summer Ski Slopes
The ride up the hill affords some great views …

View through the top gondola station, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Through the Gondola Station
… before landing us at the top station.

Gondolas, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Gondolas on the Mountain
The mountain rises high above the township below, …

Patch of snow, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Summer Snow
… and the views extend in all directions.

Dirtbike riders at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Dirt Bike Riders on the Slope
Like many other ski resorts, Mammoth Mountain has gone to some lengths to attract summer visitors.

Low rise alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Low Rise Alpine Flowers
I loved the fuzzy, curling leaves on these little yellow flowers. I think they are one of the many hymenoxys genus, but I can’t find an exact match.

Tiny yellow and red succulents at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny Succulents
In this high and arid environment, plants need to be low and compact to survive.

Lakes Basin from the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Lakes Basin from the Mountain

Low rise alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Sunny Yellow Flowers
Another lovely yellow flower; probably another hymenoxys.

Purple flowers in the gravel at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Purple Flowers in the Gravel
This tiny little flower reminds me of the monkeyflower group – but again I could find no match on line.

Small round yellow flower at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny Flowers Standing Tall

Tiny white alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny White Alpine Flowers
I think these pretty little flowers are ‘Moonbeams’ (Clematis x cartmanii).

Three cyclists at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Cycles at the Top of Mammoth

Mammoth statue, Mammoth Lakes, California, USA

Mammoth Sculpture
After descending Mammoth Mountain, we pause to admire the giant mammoth statue outside the Visitors’ Center.

Fresh air, alpine walks and wildflowers –

Who could ask for more?

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 17July2013

The National Museum of Oman from the road, Muscat.

Museum and Mountains
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman is like a symbol of Muscat, or of Oman as a whole: modern architecture based on traditional Omani Arabic principles, surrounded by an oasis of lush gardens and rugged, arid hills – and watched over by medieval Portuguese forts.

Muscat, the Sultanate of Oman’s capital and most populous city, has been known as an important trading seaport since at least the early 1st century. Hemmed in by the rugged Western Al Hajar Mountains, the sheltered port city lies on the Arabian Sea along the Gulf of Oman, where the waters lead east to the Indian Ocean, and west to the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf.

The original tribal dwellers of this strategically important location were challenged by the Neo-Persian Empire in the 3rd century CE, but the influence of the Al-Azd tribal Arab dynasty continued to grow until the First Imamate was established in the 9th century. The Portuguese conquered Muscat in 1507, built fortresses – which still stand – to protect their trading routes, and maintained a hold on the city against challenges from Persia and the Ottoman Turks for over a century.

By the early 1600s, the balance of power shifted again, from the Persians and the Portuguese to local Omanis, but infighting and conflict continued until the emergence of the Al Bu Sa‘id dynasty in 1749. This family has ruled Oman ever since.

Oman might be the oldest independent state in the Arab world, but it is a bundle of contradictions. The country is an absolute monarchy, and although the current ruler Haitham bin Tarik Al Said is described as “outward-looking and Western-oriented”, as with any autocracy, civil and human rights can be ignored with impunity.

But, the country has come a long way. Until the overthrow of Sultan Said bin Taimur, who ruled from 1932-1970, the country was closed to any outside influences. In spite of considerable proceeds from the export of oil, the people suffered high mortality rates. There were only three schools, the literacy rate was 5%, and there were only 10 kilometres (6 mi) of paved roads. By contrast, in 2010, after forty years of rule by his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the United Nations ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development.

This development is not unbridled, however. While new buildings look to safety and function, they are also expected to conform to design and height restrictions, and must be in “harmony with the elements of Islamic and Arab Omani architecture”. As a consequence, Muscat’s urban landscape consists of modern low-lying white buildings that blend seamlessly with historical architecture and the landscape.

Oman’s return to modern development and an outward-looking economy make it a comfortable place to visit. Tourism is the fastest-growing industry, and provided one respects local rules and traditions, the country feels safe and hassle-free.

Certainly, Muscat was a pleasure to explore, with plenty to see.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Prayer Hall, Muscat Oman

Prayer Hall
Our first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around the magnificent interior. This intricate 21 tonne carpet took four years to make, and the 14 metres (46 feet) tall Italian-made central chandelier includes 600,000 Swarovski crystals.

Inside the Muhammad al-Amin Mosque, Muscat Oman

Inside the Mosque Muhammad al-Amin
We then spent time exploring the slightly more modern marble-clad Muhammad al-Amin Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces).

As Sultan Qaboos Port across the Muttrah Corniche, Muscat Oman

Sultan Qaboos Port
Muscat clings to the waterfront. The Muttrah Corniche follows the outlines of the Sultan Qaboos Port. The wealth here is evidenced in the two royal yachts sitting in the harbour.

Entry to Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Entry to Mutrah Souq
Regardless of vagaries of spelling, the Muttrah Souk is a delight to wander around.

Snuff Tins, Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Snuff Tins
It is one of the oldest marketplaces in the Arab world, and although there are some products aimed at tourists, it clearly is a local market.

Trinkets, jewels and lamps for sale in a crowded stall, Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Trinkets, Jewels and Gems
Every square inch is full of fascinating products, and the while the shopkeepers are friendly, they weren’t intrusive.

Arabic coloured glass lanterns, Mutrah Souq, Muscat Oman

Traditional Glass Mosaic Lanterns

Mutrah Souk aisle, Muscat Oman

Souk Corridor
It was hot outside, but the wide lanes of the souk were actually relatively cool and restful – and the whole place smelled delightfully of Frankincense.

Intricate gold jewellery, Muscat Oman

Gold Finery
There is some real money in this city! I settled for a couple of scarves.

Mutrah Fort, Muscat Oman

Mutrah Fort
Back on the waterfront, we found a local place to eat lunch under the watchful eye of the tower built by the Portuguese in the 1580s as part of the city fortifications.

Waterfront Fish Sculpture, The Corniche, Muscat Oman

Waterfront Fish Sculpture

The Corniche, Muscat Oman

The Corniche
The roadway along the waterfront is flanked with beautifully tiled walkways which culminate in parks on the points.

Dhow moored in the harbour, Muscat Oman

Dhow in the Harbour
Oman takes great pride in its boatbuilders, and traditional wooden dhows are still used for fishing and tourism.

Riyam Incense Burner, Muscat Oman

Riyam Incense Burner
High above a waterfront park, a watchtower that looks like an incense burner was built in 1990 to celebrate Oman’s 20th National Day.

View over Old Muscat, Oman

View over Old Muscat
From a hillside vantage point, we look over the forts and buildings of the old city.

Two Omani women in black Burqa at the Sidab Womens Group, Muscat Oman

At the Sidab Women’s Group
A bit further up the hill, we stopped in at the Sidab Women’s Sewing Group, a poverty alleviation initiative, where we admired local textiles …

Omani coffee pot and cups, Sidab Womens Group, Muscat Oman

Kahwa at the Sidab Womens Group
… and of course, were offered coffee. In Oman, coffee – kahwa or qahwa in Arabic – is blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon, and served with fresh dates as a ritual ‘welcome’. I loved it!

Minaret and mountains, Old Muscat, Muscat Oman

Minaret and Mountains
Back on the road, we head into Old Muscat

Al Alam Palace Gate, Old Muscat, Oman

Al Alam Palace Gate
… past the colourful gate to the old palace, …

White wall with arched entries, Old Muscat Oman

White Wall
… and past classic white-washed walls.

Al-Mirani Fort from the Corniche, Old Muscat Oman

Al-Mirani Fort
The old city is separated from the rest of modern Muscat by coastal mountains – and Portuguese walls and forts.

Colourful Nubian Ibex sculptures, Bait Al Zubair Museum, Muscat Oman

Nubian Ibex (Capra Ibex Nubiana)
Outside the Bait Al Zubair Museum, we find colourful models of the native desert-dwelling goats …

Relief Model of Old Muscat, Bait Al Zubair Museum, Oman

Relief Model
… and a model of the old city as it would have looked in 1625 when the encircling walls were finished.

Omani Khanjar, The National Museum, Oman

Omani Khanjar
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman was established in 2013 …

Carved Arch, The National Museum, Oman

Carved Arch
… as a showcase for the country’s cultural heritage …

Magan Boat, The National Museum, Oman

Bronze Age Magan Boat
… and history, back to the earliest settlement.

Door handle detail, The National Museum, Oman

Omani Door Handle
Beautifully carved wooden doors and their heavy ornamentation feature everywhere in the country.

Jewellery displays, The National Museum Oman

Desert Jewels – The National Museum

Muscat harbour silhouetted against a sunset, Oman

Sunset over Muscat
For a different perspective on the city, I took a sunset cruise in an old dhow (Watch this Space!). You can just see the incense burner and city fortifications against the darkening sky.

Text: Happy TravelsCertainly a culturally rich and fascinating place!

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 20 and 26October2019

Portrait: Kara youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Kara Youngster : Dus Village
The Kara are a beautiful people. and photographing them with the benefits of a black cloth and an off-camera flash is a real joy.

The Lower Omo Valley in south west Ethiopia is a photographer’s dream. It might be off the beaten track and hard to get to, but it is home to 16+ ethnic groups, each with their own distinctive customs, dress, and body art, so once you are there, you are spoiled for choice of subjects.

The tribal people in this region have learned that their tourism ‘value’ is in their appearance, and they generally charge visitors ‘per click’ for pictures made of them. While this is entirely fair, it removes the opportunity to make truly environmental pictures: the people in these remote villages are acutely aware of the camera, and will ‘pose’ at every opportunity.

So, if they are going to pose anyway, why not make use of the black cloths and off-camera flashes that someone has transported into the middle of the jungle!

I was comfortably lodged in the heart of Kara tribal territory on the south bank of the Omo River, at a mobile camp organised by Grand Holidays Ethiopia. The campsite was close to Dus Village, the largest of three Kara villages in Ethiopia: a half-day’s drive from power, running water, and the market town of Turmi. I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour, and he and some of the other participants had brought flash units with them.

Our location gave us exceptional access to the village, and we visited a number of times, at all times of day (see: Kara Village). The Kara are known for their beautiful body- and face-paint, which they apply to each other for fun, decoration, and artistic expression – even if there are no photographers around, and even when there is no special occasion to celebrate.

Join me for some flash – and some environmental – portraits of these beautiful people.

Portrait: Kara youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Youngster in Face Paint
The Kara people love their beads and face paint.

Portrait: Smiling Kara Youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Smiling Kara Youngster
With no common language, and the Kara’s serious attitudes about photography, it was hard to get a relaxed pose – so I was very happy with this gorgeous smile.

Young Kara woman being face-painted, Dus Village Ethiopia

Painting Guinea Fowl
Outside our makeshift studio, young women are helping each other get ready. Guinea-fowl spots are one of the most popular design elements.

Portrait: Kara woman in cowrie shell, beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Cowrie Shells and Beads
Kara women love their beads. Like their Hamar cousins, they wear goatskin smocks, trimmed with cowrie shells.

Portrait: Kara woman in cowrie shell, beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Face Paint and Ochre
They take pride in their face paint, and – also like the Hamar – they dress their hair in an ochre and fat paste.

Portrait: Kara man against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Man
There is a simple elegance in these people’s faces.

Portrait: Kara man against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Man in Hands
The face-and-body paint styles take a variety of forms. Hand prints are a popular body-paint motif. I love that clear, direct gaze.

Portrait: Old Kara man in a feathered cap and clay face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Old Kara Man
The feathered clay cap this man is wearing is proof that he has made a kill in the past year or two: either of an enemy, or of a dangerous animal.

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Woman in a Beaded Headdress

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Beads and Spots

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Sideways Glance

Portrait: Kara mother and toddler, Dus Village Ethiopia

Mother and Toddler
Back outside in the village, people pose in front of their woven grass houses.

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

The Soccer Match
On a flat patch of dusty ground, …

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Jump Shot
… a group of young men in bare feet or flip-flops …

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Ball Skills
… chase an under-inflated soccer ball.

Kara youths playing ball, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Playing Ball
I can’t figure out the rules – if there are any – of the game they are playing, …

Kara youths playing ball, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Eyes on the Ball
… but there is no mistaking their skill and enthusiasm.

Kara women and toddlers in a group, face painting, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Face Painting
The afternoon draws on and people continue to gather in clusters to apply face paint.

Kara women and toddler, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Mother in Corn Rows
All around the village, young mothers …

Kara women and toddler, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Mother in Traditional Dress
… are happy to show off their children.

Portrait: Three young Kara men, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Young Kara Men

Kara girls in face paint, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Girls and their Instas
As the light started falling, I pulled out my Fujifilm Instax camera and – once they realised what was happening – the young women clamoured to get their own instant pictures to keep. They are so used to having their pictures ‘taken’; having them given back to them was a nice change!

I lost all my new ‘best friends’ as soon as I ran out of Instax film!

Text: Keep smilingBut, it was time to move on anyway: the young men were about to bring home the goats.

More on that later. Until then,

Keep Smiling!

Pictures: 21October2018

Basalt bricks in front of the Devils Postpile, California USA

Devils Postpile National Monument 
The regular-shaped basalt bricks tumbled all over the ground at the Devils Postpile are as impressive as the 18 metre (60 foot) ridge of columnar basalt behind them.

California’s Eastern Sierra region is a remote and vast wilderness, lightly populated and replete with extensive rugged and magnificent terrain. Sitting in the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada, the mountains here rise steeply from the prairies and deserts to the east.

The largest industry in the Eastern Sierra is tourism: based in tiny localities and small cities, and focused on getting people into the extensive national parks, national forests, state parks, and protected wilderness areas. You could get lost for days and weeks on the back-country hiking paths and trails.

Fortunately for me, you can access some pretty uniques and remarkable places with short walks as well!

I was staying with a fellow-photography-enthusiast at her home in Mammoth Lakes, in Mono County California (see: Waters and Wildflowers). Well known as a winter skiing base, the town also provides easy access to nearby summer trails.

It was a short, early-morning drive to next-door Madera County and the Devils Postpile parking lot. From there, it’s a delightful walk into the expansive Inyo National Forest, the fabled Ansel Adams Wilderness, and the Devils Postpile National Monument. Our 8.5 km (5.3 m) part-circuit and part out-and-back walk took us to the magnificent formation of basalt columns known as the Devils Postpile (How I wished for an apostrophe and a hyphen, but that is American English for you!), leading us along a short section of  the John Muir Trail/Pacific Crest Trail before we branched off towards the very pretty Rainbow Falls

The Devils Postpile sits at 2286 m (7500 ft), which is higher than mainland Australia’s highest mountain, so the extra 230 m (758 ft) gain and loss of elevation on our walk slowed me down … as did the scenery along the way.

Join me for a walk in the High Sierras.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

Devils Postpile
It’s a short walk from the carpark to the lofty, 18 m (60 ft) columns of strikingly symmetrical basalt rising above us. The Postpile faces west, and we hadn’t checked the Photographer’s Ephemeris, so of course, the sun was in our eyes and the rocks were bathed in shadow.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

At the Base of the Devils Postpile
According to radiometric dating, the formation was created by a lava flow just under 100,000 years ago. It is thought that the lava that makes up the Postpile was at the bottom of the mass, allowing it to cool slowly and evenly, which gives rise to the long symmetrical columns.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

Trees on the Postpile
Basalt columns are a common feature resulting from volcanos, but this is considered one of the world’s finest examples due to its hexagonal regularity and lack of horizontal joining.

Fireweed in a tangle of undergrowth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fireweed (Chamaenerion Angustifolium)
When we leave the Postpile cliff behind, we follow the path through a tangle of undergrowth and flowers …

Jagged fallen tree trunk, Devils Postpile, California USA

Nature’s Sculpture
… and artfully sculpted fallen timbers.

Dried pine needles against a blue sky, Devils Postpile, California USA

Dried Bits against the Sky
This is an arid – and often fire-ravaged – region. Drought and the consequent rise of mountain pine beetles have also taken their toll.

Hikers in the woods, Devils Postpile, California USA

Walkers in the Woods
These are conifer forests of tall pine and fir trees.

Burned logs, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Burned Logs
The 1992 Rainbow Fire here in the Inyo National Forest was started by a lightening strike, and burned out 8000 acres of forest.

Charred tree and new growth, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Rainbow Fire Totem
Charred trees still stand as markers amid the new growth. In areas of ‘high severity fire’ the regrowth has been sparse and limited to certain species.

Detail: burned tree trunk, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Like a Burned Totem
The charred timber of this standing tree trunk is like an elaborate sculpture.

Signpost entry to Ansel Adams Wilderness, California USA

Ansel Adams Country
Photography enthusiasts know the name Ansel Adams: American landscape photographer and environmentalist. This 93,698 ha (231,533 acre) wilderness area was named for him after his death in 1984. It spans the Inyo National Forest, the Sierra National Forest, and includes nearly all of Devils Postpile National Monument.

New growth and old damage on a hill, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fledgeling Pine
Conifers are slow-growing, so damage takes a long time to regenerate.

New growth and old damage on a hill, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Old Damage
Burned out, blown down, and/or rotting tree trunks provide animal homes and ground nutrients.

Fireweed in a tangle of undergrowth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fireweed (Chamaenerion Angustifolium)

Middle Fork San Joaquin River, Inyo National Forest, California USA

In the Inyo National Forest
The name Inyo comes from a Native American word meaning “dwelling place of the great spirit.” As we walk along the Middle Fork San Joaquin River, I can easily imagine spirits living here.

View over the top of Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Top of Rainbow Falls
After a 4 km (2.5 mi) walk, we reach the top of these very pretty 30 m (101 ft) falls.

Stony Pathway at Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Stony Pathway at Rainbow Falls
In the right light, rainbows form in the spray at the bottom of the falls. We weren’t lucky enough to find any.

Hiker in the wildflowers, Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Katy on the Path
Wildflowers are in bloom everywhere.

Yellow daisies at the base of a tree, Devils Postpile, California USA

Nature’s Artworks
The extreme climate leads to twisted trees and hardy flowers; …

Yellow daisies at the base of a tree, Devils Postpile, California USA

A Natural Bouquet
I think these are a type of Hymenoxys.

Pearly Everlasting closeup, Devils Postpile, California USA

Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea)

Horse riders advancing Inyo National Forest, California USA

Riders in the Forest
This is a shared track, …

Horse riders retreating, Inyo National Forest, California USA

On the Dusty Trail
… as we are reminded when a trail ride goes past.

Hexagonal columns of basalt at the top of the Devils Postpile, California USA

Columnar Basalt
Our return trail takes across the top of the Devils Postpile,

Tops of the hexagonal columns of basalt at the the Devils Postpile, California USA

Polygonal Shapes
… giving us a bird’s eye view of the tops of the contracted basalt columns.

Tops of the hexagonal columns of basalt at the the Devils Postpile, California USA

On Top of the Postpile
The cooled remnants of the lava flow have been carved, shaped, and polished by the powerful erosive forces of wind, water, earthquakes, and glaciers over the last 80,000 to 100,000 years.

Portrait: Forest Ranger, Devils Postpile, California USA

Ranger Michael
As we walk back down the Postpile, we come across Ranger Michael, who is explaining how to tell the difference between the two main trees in the forest: lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta) and Jeffrey pines (Pinus jeffreyi).

Fresh pine growth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Pine Needles
Unfortunately, I have forgotten which is which!

Devils Postpile, morning, California USA

Devils Postpile
We get one last (slightly better lit) look at the Postpile before returning to our car.

Text: Take only Pictures

As much as it would have been better to have done our homework, and to have explored this area in better-angled sunlight, it is better to have the sun in your eyes than not to go at all! 

And, to paraphrase Hellen Keller, if you keep your face to the sun, you’ll never see the shadows.

Keep Smiling!

Photos: 17July2013