In the Courtyard of the Temples of Philae – Agilkia Island I never quite got the picture I wanted: one that conveyed the dry heat and the magical wonder of wandering among ancient stone structures.
Every day I spent in Egypt was more amazing than the last!
It was day six – and my Nile riverboat had spent the last few days making it’s way south, up river (see: Kom Ombo Egypt). Our boat had rafting up against another one the evening before in the ancient city of Swenett, now known as Aswan. After an early breakfast, my fellow passengers and I disembarked and found a mini-bus to take us to the Marina Philae Temple, where countless simple wooden boats were waiting to take tourists the twelve kilometres further up river to the sacred Temple of Isis – also known as the Philae Temples.
Build during Egypt’s Greco-Roman Period, the complex was started in 280 BCE, during the reign of Ptolemy II, and finished by his successor, Ptolemy III Euergetes. It was built on the island of Philae, which was sacred to the Goddess Isis from early Egyptian times and was said to be one of the burial-places of Osiris. The temple is dedicated to the Gods Isis, Osiris, and Horus and the walls are covered in scenes illustrating the story of Isis bringing Osiris back to life, giving birth to Horus, and mummifying Osiris after his death.
Perhaps more amazing than the original structures, however, is that fact that the historic buildings were saved from inundation by the floodwaters resulting from Egypt’sHigh Dam project. A campaign launched by UNESCO in 1960 lead to an international rescue operation: between 1972 and 1980, the temples at Philae were broken up into carefully numbered sections, and were moved and re-erected in the same relative positions on the nearby island of Agilika. This relocation effort – and the original historic value of the temples themselves – is recognised by the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the “Nubian Monuments from Abu Simbel to Philae”.
The temple has been called one of the gems of Upper Egypt for its carved pylons; I enjoyed the locals, the coffee, and the markets just as much!
Trinkets on the Foreshore It is a short bus trip to the boat dock above the Aswan Low Dam, where souvenir sellers and boat operators wait for business.
Tourist Boats on the Nile The wooden boats are simple, …
Keeping Watch … but is is a lovely trip across the reservoir above the Aswan Low Dam …
Boats and the Island … and around Agilkia Island.
Boats and Philae Temple Complex From the Nile, we can see part of the temple complex – which was rebuilt at exactly the same orientation as it originally sat on the island of Philae.
Boatman Many of the people in this region are Nubians – descendants of an ancient African civilisation dating back to at least 2500 BC.
Introduction to the Temple of Philae An information board greets us on arrival at the temple complex.
Forecourt The colonnaded main courtyard leading towards the First Pylon and into the Temple of Philae gives us time to appreciate its symmetry and scale. Behind the columns on the right are priests’ rooms.
The First Pylon The temple entranceway, with its two towers and central doorway, stand an impressive 18 metres (60 feet) tall.
Frieze Relief – West Tower The whole entry (and indeed, the whole complex) is richly engraved with stories of the Gods and rulers.
Wall Frieze
Horus in a Pschent Horus, the falcon-headed God, features often in the wall art. Here he is wearing the combined crown of Upper and Lower Egypt.
Hathor The columns leading up to the Second Pylon are topped with images of Hathor, the mother Goddess who created and maintained all life on earth, in her bovine animal form.
The Second Pylon The second doorway leads into the inner sanctum of the temple.
Coptic Cross amongst the Ankhs The temple was transformed into a Christian place of worship during the early Byzantine Empire under the Coptic Bishop Theodore (AD 379-395). (iPhone6)
‘Modern’ Graffiti The island of Philae was rediscovered by European Egyptologists in the 1820s, and tourists soon followed.
Exiting the Temple Outside, the sun has climbed into a cloudless sky, and temperatures are heading past the mid 30s (95°F).
Photos in the Courtyard Visitors take each other’s pictures in the courtyard in front of Trajan’s Kiosk, named for Roman Emperor Trajan (98 to 117 AD), even though sections pre-date him. Locals call it the Pharaoh’s Bed.
Boat off the Island Boats continue to ferry people back and forth, …
Vendors … and locals happily pose for pictures.
Barista I head into the shops …
Cezves : Cooking Coffee … for a well-earned Egyptian (Turkish) coffee.
Colourful Spices and Scents I also check out the spice market, …
Explaining the Range … wait while the shop-keeper explains the different grades of spices and beans to another woman, …
Spice Vendor … and then buy small bags of dried frankincense and myrrh sap to take home.
Young Boatman Soon it is time to find our boat again, …
Buildings on the Shore … and head back the mainland.
Every time I open my little bags of fragrant sap, I am transported straight back to the heat and the history of this temple complex in Upper Egypt.
[…] to source international funding to rescue these two temples and the Temple Complex at Philae (see: The Sacred Temple of Isis). Between 1964 and 1968 the Abu Simbel temples were cut into 20 to 30 ton sections, moved and […]ReplyCancel
The Minarets from Minaret Vista High in California’s Eastern Sierras, the Minaret Vista (2,824 m – 9,265 ft) allows you to lookout over the Ritter Range and the jaggedly-sharp peaks of the Minarets (right hand side) in the Ansel Adams Wilderness.
The Eastern Sierra region of California is well known for its magnificent scenery, encompassing unique desert valleys, rugged alpine peaks, vestigial salty inland seas, and lakes of crystal glacial origins.
With millions of acres reserved within national parks, national monuments, state forests, and local reserves, much of it is considered ‘backcountry’, obtainable only by means of long hikes, climbs, skis, snowshoes, horseback, or all-terrain vehicles.
But, some of it is so accessible it almost feels like cheating!
The name “Eastern Sierra” is given to California’sMono and Inyo Counties, nested in the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range whose very name (Spanish: sierra “jagged mountain range” and nevado “snowy”) speaks to its wildness. This is sparsely populated country with a youthful population and a plethora of outdoor activities.
I was staying with a friend at her place in Mammoth Lakes, on the eastern side of the lava dome complex that is Mammoth Mountain – California’s highest ski resort. We had driven past the entry to the Minaret Vista lookout the day before on our short drive west to the Devils Postpile, where we took the hike to Rainbow Lake (see: The Devils Postpile), before walking around Agnew Meadow (see: Wildflowers). We passed it again, on our way back to the starting-point for the gondola to the top of Mammoth Mountain (see: Wildflowers).
But, on this morning, we drove 15 minutes directly to Minaret Vista – and the views were right there!
Sitting on the back side of Mammoth Mountain, Minaret Vista is billed as the highest drivable lookout in the Mammoth Lakes area. You don’t have to leave your car for extensive views over the Ritter Range, a sub-range of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The most impressive of these are the jagged pinnacles of granite, named ‘The Minarets’ in 1868 by the California Geographical Survey.
Of course, we did get out of the car: dragging our tripods to the outlook, and wandering around the mountainside to appreciate the rocks and flora.
Do come along:
Minaret Vista Just a short drive from the Mammoth Mountain Inn, there is a well-marked turn-off for the viewpoint. (Phone5)
Summer Wildflowers Clumps of Indian paintbrush (Castilleja) and sulphur-flower buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum) dot the viewing area.
Morning Sunburst It is just after 7.30 in the morning, and the sun angles low through the tangled plant-life.
Pine on the Ridge Lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta) – also known as twisted pines – command the ridge.
Pollen Cones Lodgepole pines have both pollen cones – which these are – and seed cones.
Brewer’s Lupine – Lupinus Breweri Because of the altitude, many of the plants stay low to the ground, …
Rocky Ground … clinging to the gravelly plateau as the jagged peaks of the Minarets float off into the distance.
A Colourful Palette
Sulphur-Flower Buckwheat – Eriogonum Umbellatum
Chip The views extend over the mountains across the valley.
Blue Skies and Red Rocks Nature does a better job than any landscape gardener …
Rock Garden … when it comes to mixing subtle colours and creating beautiful spaces.
Sagebrush and Indian Paint Brush
Lichen on the Rough The rough rocks make a great canvas for multi-coloured lichens and low-growing alpine plants.
Mountains behind the Ridge
View from the Minaret Vista Mountains and lakes roll off in all directions.
Butterfly Mariposa Lily – Calochortus Venustus These areas are home to a number of unique plants, endemic to the region …
Butterfly Mariposa Lily – Calochortus Venustus … like the beautiful Leichtlin’s mariposa, native to the Sierra Nevada.
Twilight over Mammoth Lakes In the evening, on the other side of Mammoth Mountain, we watch the twilight darken over Mammoth Lakes …
Mammoth Moonrise … and the half-moon rise over the bluffs behind us.
Ritual Flames Varanasi is an ancient and sacred city imbued with religious symbolism. At the holy Dasaswamedh Ghat, young priests perform the Gangaaarti every evening at sunset.
(Click for: Ganga Aarti : Sacred Hindu Chants)
It is said that Lord Shiva, one of the Trimurti, the Hindu trinity, created the city of Kashi (Varanasi) with his hands. That is why Varanasi, one of India’s seven holy cities, is said to be the country’s spiritual capital.
The holiest parts of this sacred city are along the ghats – the stairs – leading down to Ganges, the river known in India as the goddess GangaMa or “Mother Ganges.”
I was captivated: the dry heat was uplifting, the air was electric, and the people were both fascinating and welcoming (see: Life on the Ghats).
For devout Hindus,Varanasi is a centre devoted to the cycle of life and death.
Reincarnation is a key belief within Hinduism. All life goes through birth, life, death, and rebirth, in the cycle of samsara; when a living being dies, its atman (inner self or soul) will be reborn or reincarnated into a different entity, depending on its karma from its previous life. However, if one is lucky enough to die in Varanasi and to be cremated on one of the two designated ghats: Manikarnika Ghat or Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat, one achieves moksha—liberation from reincarnation and direct entry to nirvana.
Even if you don’t die in Varanasi, if you have bathed in the Ganges there – especially on auspicious days – you will be washed of your sins, giving you a better starting point for the next life.
As the sun sets in Varanasi, the Ganga Aarti is performed at Dasaswamedh Ghat. An aarti is a devotional ritual that uses fire as an offering; a form of Ganga Aarti takes place every evening at three holy cities on the Ganges: Haridwar, Rishikesh, and Varanasi. The one in Varanasi takes about 45 minutes, and is a colourful, highly choreographed, and beautiful ritual of worship dedicated to River Ganga, Surya – the setting sun, Agni – the fire and Lord Shiva.
It was the high point of my first day along the Varanasighats, and an experience that has stayed with me since.
Wood and Scales The funeral pyres on Harishchandra Ghat are a smoky reminder of life’s limits. A traditional Hindu funeral pyre needs six hours and 500–600 kilograms (1,102–1,323 pounds) of wood to burn a body completely – and clearly the keepers of the sacred fires measure this out carefully.
Woodpile and a Nanny A goat with her full udder is like a symbol of new life as she walks past the funeral wood. I watched a few families as they sent one of their relatives off. We were asked not to photograph the actual pyres – and respected that request – but a Dom community member (the sect of hereditary undertakers) was happy to explain the rituals surrounding the cremations as they happened.
Holy Person in a Yellow Turban On a balcony in the building next door, …
Religious Contemplation … a holy person sits in in quiet contemplation.
Kedar Ghat A little further north, Kedareshwar Temple rises in all its colourful glory.
Ganges Waterfront The river curves off into the hazy distance …
Boats on the Ganges … with beautiful wooden boats lining the edge.
Colourful Homes – Narad Ghat Between the palaces and temples, domestic buildings rise in a colourful tumble.
Man in a Checked Dhoti People from all walks of life are seated on the steps below.
Water Buffaloes and a Common Crow
Sadhus in Orange The sadhus are endlessly fascinating. I quickly discovered that sharing a cup of masala chai (spiced tea) with them was a great icebreaker.
Bicycle in a Laneway
Women in a Doorway In the streets behind the ghats, …
Chai Wallah … everyday life goes on.
Blue Boats I loved the wooden boats on the foreshore of the Ganges.
Blue and Red Boat Their colours and textures were wonderful.
Elderly Man in a White Hat
White Hair and White Beard
Dashashwamedh Ghat As the sun drops lower in the sky, the last of the bathers in the waters finish up …
Mother and Daughter … and spectators of all ages find seats on the ghat where the Ganga aarti will soon be performed.
Twilight Preparations The priests of Gangotri Seva Samiti set the stage for the Ganga aarti on Dashashwamedh Ghat.
Candelabra
Religious Trinkets
Watching from the Water Many spectators opt for a seat in one of the boats in the river. I was lucky: an Indian woman who had scored an excellent position level with the priests invited me to sit with her and her family.
Big Eyes
Flower Seller
Flower Offerings The sellers have prepared offerings that can be lit and set afloat for the Mother Ganges.
Bells and Flames The Ganga Aartistarts soon after sunset and lasts for about 45 minutes. Once the young pandits have prepared all the necessary paraphernalia, they sit in meditation. Then, they start a chant of mantras while circling small flames and ringing brass bells.
Bells and Incense The fragrance of incense permeates the still-warm evening air, and the chime of bells continues.
Bells and Smoke The bells are said to create an ‘auspicious sound’ which aligns the chakras, and the incense represents a purified state of mind.
Ceremonial Brass Lamps An aarti is essentially a Vedic fire ritual, using fire as an offering to the Goddess Ganga. Once lit, the multi-tiered brass lamps are impressive.
Like Feathers Towards the end of arati yak-tail fans (chanvar) are waved to send the element of air back to its source.
Kids on the Steps The children in the audience are as transfixed as I am.
Bowing Down
Woman on the Ghats When the last notes die down, I say a heartfelt thank you to the lovely woman who, after arriving an hour early on the ghat to secure her spot, so generously shared it with me.
With the drone of the music still ringing in my ears, and the soft smell of incense clinging to my skin, I walked back to my room in a happy daze.
Varanasi gets into your soul.
It certainly captivated me, and shifted my perspective on life. And death.
[…] Ganga Aarti on Dashashwamedh Ghat attracts both pilgrims and tourists in great numbers (see: Life and Death on the Varanasi Ghats), the devotional rituals along the river start before […]ReplyCancel
Uluru under the Strut Glowing red in the afternoon light, that magic sandstone monolith at the heart of Australia rises up 348 m (1142 ft) out of the surrounding plains – and extends even further underground.
In these days of rolling lockdowns and seriously curtailed travel, flying feels like a thing of the past.
But, last year in October, I managed to get on not one, but two different airplanes in the space of a few days.
Like most travellers with international itineraries, I was flattened in 2020 when Covid-19 pulled the rug out from under all my plans, and left me – and everyone else in Australia – self-distancing at home. Now, eighteen months later, international borders are still effectively closed and interstate travel within the country is severely restricted.
But, there have been small windows of opportunity, and I managed to squeeze a package deal to the Ayers Rock Resort in the red heart of Australia into one of these openings (see: Weekly Wanders Yulara).
It’s a three-hour and twenty-minute flight from Sydney to Ayers Rock/Connellan Airport in Yulara, Northern Territory: it is easy to forget how big Australia actually is! It felt strange walking around the unusually quiet Kingsford Smith Airport, mindfully keeping my mask on and skirting around others at a respectful ‘social’ distance. Of course, once on the airplane, we were packed in like sardines, as per normal on a low-cost airline! Deplaning took forever, as everyone had to ‘prove’, via bank statements, etc, that they hadn’t been in any declared areas of concern.
This part of the Red Centre – the vast, red, sandy plain in central Australia – is formally recognised by UNESCO World Heritage for both its natural and cultural values. It has been home to the Indigenous Anangu people since Dreamtime, and features in countless ancient stories they have handed down explaining the origins and nature of the “spectacular geological formations” that are found here. For, rising out of a red landscape that is flat and empty out to the horizons in all directions, are two incredible ancient rock formations: Uluru, the 348 m (1,142 ft) high sandstone monolith, and Kata Tjuta, the 36 domes of conglomerated sand, pebbles, and cobbles.
Both these timeless and magnificent formations are contained within the Uluru-Kata Tjuta (formerly the Uluru (Ayers Rock – Mount Olga)) National Park, which is jointly managed by the Anangu people – the traditional owners – and Parks Australia.
It was just after lengthy lockdowns and the resort was quiet without the usual international visitors. The Anangu Cultural Centre was off-limits to us ‘outsiders’ to protect the small Indigenous community from possible infection. So, I booked everything else I could get my hands on. I didn’t have to think twice about taking advantage of the scenic flights available over the area! After all, it had taken me a long time to get there – it might be a long time before I was back.
On the day of my arrival, I wandered through the Field of Lights. The next day, I explored the resort, taking in a talk on bush tucker and other activities (Watch this space!), and went for a sunset camel ride. I watched the sunrise and walked into the Walpa Gorge in Kata Tjuta, and I planned to walked around the base of Uluru the day after my sunset flight. (Watch this space!)
It is amazing how different these magnificent rock formations are in every light and from every angle! Join me in the air:
Pilot Chris Chris welcomes us to the brightly decorated, Australian-manufactured, Gippsland Aeronautics G8.
Safety Briefing Before we board, Chris shows us how to operate the doors in an emergency.
Ayers Rock Scenic Flights I was originally booked on the little Cessna sitting on the Ayers Rock (Uluru) Airport tarmac.
Helicopters at the Airport It’s that time of day: all the scenic flights are out. After we clear the runway, two helicopters take off below us.
Uluru The 500+ million year-old sandstone monolith, known variously as Uluru and Ayers Rock, rises dramatically out of the vast red desert plain.
Kata Tjuta Chris wants to make the most of the last available light, so we make our way to Kata Tjuta – 25 km (16 mi) east of Uluru – first. (iPhone6)
Kata Tjuṯa Domes In Pitjantjatjara, one of the two principle Aboriginal languages in this region, Kata Tjuṯa means ‘many heads’.
Kata Tjuta and Uluru The 36 conglomerate domes that make up what is also called the Olgas were formed roughly 600 million years ago and stretch across almost 22 square kilometres (8.37 sq mi). Uluru looks small in the distance.
Kata Tjuṯa / Mount Olga I had enjoyed sunrise over these domed rock formations and walked in amongst them that very morning (see: Walpa Gorge); they look very different from the air.
Kata Tjuta under the Wing The local Aboriginal Anangu people have lived in this area for more than 22,000 years, and since 1995 Kata Tjuta is being used again for cultural ceremonies. There are many Dreamtime legends (creation stories) told here, but because this is a place of sacred ‘men’s business’, most of them are not disclosed to outsiders – particularly women.
Shadows on Kata Tjuta The light drops quickly, and the shapes of the boulders soften as we move away.
Golden Light When we turn back towards Uluru, the lowering sun sets fire to the wings of our plane, …
Uluru in Colour … and turns the red plain purple.
The Red Centre Between 500 and 400 million years ago, this whole area was covered by a sea. It is easy to imagine, as we look at the waves of arid sand and rock below.
Uluru in the Afternoon Sun All of Uluru is sacred to the local Pitjantjatjara, but some parts are more secret than others: out of respect, pilots do not overfly certain parts of the rock.
Uluru in the Last Light As we fly closer to the darkening rock, we can see the closed Aboriginal community of Mutitjulu behind it.
Like a Dream In the other direction, Kata Tjuta fades into the clouds …
Kata Tjuta from the Air … and silhouettes against the darkening sky.
Sunset OK – it’s not the best sunset shot I’ve ever made, but it’s the best ‘sunset over Kata Tjuṯa from the air’ shot I could manage!
Twilight over Yulara and Uluru
Touchdown! All too soon, it is getting dark, and we are back on the ground.
I was still floating on air when I got back to the resort in time for dinner.
I do love small planes – and these rocks are magnificent.
Goatherds at Sundown Every day, Kara boys and men bring the goats back into the Dus Village compound for the night. The older males carry their AK-47s to protect the precious herds against wild animals and marauding rival tribes.
Life in for the semi-nomadic Kara(Karo) people in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley is simple – simple, but not easy.
There is no electricity and no running water. The people live in dark, circular huts made from sticks and grass. Tradition dictates one’s place and ritual determines one’s behaviour. Every day, the women grind sorghum on large stones to make meal for the staple diet of porridge. And, every day, the boys and men look after the precious goats.
Tsetse flies, which spread African Trypanosomiasis – or ‘sleeping sickness’, are prevalent in the region. So, the Kara focus on goats and sheep, which are less vulnerable to the illness than larger livestock. They do keep a few cattle, but that meat is reserved for special occasions.
The Kara are a small group who maintain friendly, symbiotic relations with the neighbouring and loosely-related Hamar, Banna, Dassanetch, and Arbore tribes. However, they cultivate ongoing animosities with the Mursi and Nyangatom: the Nyangatom live across the Omo River, occupying territory the Kara believe is theirs, and bloody skirmishes are not uncommon.
For this reason, and for the protection of the herds, every young man must own an AK-47 before he is allowed to marry. He is expected to demonstrate his ability to protect his village, his family, and the herd that represents his wealth.
Like the other Omo Valley ethnic tribes, the Kara are happy to earn money from tourists who come to photograph their creative body- and face-paint, and to learn about their daily practices and customs. But, the three little Kara villages are hard to get to, even by Ethiopian standards. Grand Holidays Ethiopia organised and set up a mobile campsite, complete with generators and portable showers, so that our group – travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour – could stay several days in the heart of Kara territory in comfort.
This proximity had allowed us to visit the largest Kara settlement, Dus Village, a number of times. Sadly, it was our last full day there. After a morning of portraiture (see: Tribal Portraits), I was off to make a second attempt at capturing the daily activity of bringing the goats home at sundown (see: Men and Goats and Dust).
Join me in the dust of the plateau above the beautiful Omo River:
A Gun and a Baby Goat The gentle way in which this man is carrying a baby kid belies his status as a proven warrior: his feathered clay cap tells us he has been responsible for a kill of an enemy or dangerous animal in recent times.
Kara Warrior with a Kid I don’t know why this kid is being so tenderly carried, when the rest of the herd walks.
Kara Goatherd A young lad in body paint uses a switch …
Herding Goats … to keep the precious herd moving.
Kara Goatherd in Stripes Barefoot and bare chested, the young goatherds in their body paint and wrap skirts …
Young Kara Goatherd … keep the goat herd together and compact.
Warrior with Goats and an AK-47 In spite of the prevalence of Kalashnikovs – and warriors who have demonstrated their deadliness – I never felt remotely at risk with these people.
Goatherd with a Kalashnikov
Silhouetted Goatherd As the afternoon sun drops in the sky, …
Goatherd at Sundown … the goats and the goatherd are silhouetted in the last light.
Goatherd and Goats The late afternoon sun creates interesting lighting effects.
Goats in the Dust The animals are quite large, and many have beautiful markings.
Goatherd with his a Stool The men in the Omo Valley all carry their small stools carved from acacia wood; these are also used as headrests when the men are out with the flocks.
Goats on the Plateau Looking back away from the sun, the herd is bathed in afternoon light.
Goats at Sunset
Goats like Scherenschnitten As a child, I was fascinated by scherenschnitten: German scissor-cut outlines in black paper. As I lay in the dust, watching the herd silhouetted against the evening sky, I was reminded of that traditional art.
Guns and Goats The evening sun sends its last rays over the horizon.
Twilight in the Dust A stool and gun – what more could a warrior want?
Goat Herders on the Plateau The last light angles over the herd on the plateau above the village, …
Water Tower … setting a red glow behind the village water tower.
I was sad to farewell these beautiful people and to pack up my wonderful tent in the dappled jungle clearing …
But, while we were off on another adventure tomorrow, the Kara men and boys would – once again – be looking after their goats and sheep.
[…] Thought to number about 30,000 people across South Sudan and Ethiopia, the Nyangatom have a reputation for being aggressive, and conflicts between themselves and neighbouring tribes are not uncommon. The village I visited on the west bank of the Omo River was on contested lands that was reputedly taken from the Kara people in bloody battle (see: Goats and Guns at Sunset). […]ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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They still smell glorious!
Truly a magnificent landscape!
[…] to source international funding to rescue these two temples and the Temple Complex at Philae (see: The Sacred Temple of Isis). Between 1964 and 1968 the Abu Simbel temples were cut into 20 to 30 ton sections, moved and […]