Carved marble dome, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Carved Domes
The delicately carved marble domes of the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, high on a hill in Muscat, are a magnificent example of modern Islamic architecture.

Mosques – masjed or masjid – are a prominent feature in any Islamic landscape (eg.: Jama Mosque). With their beautiful domes, their graceful arches, and their soaring minarets, these houses of Muslim worship draw attention upwards and engender admiration, reverence and calm.

During a short stay in Muscat, capital city of the Sultanate of Oman – a Muslim country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula – I spent the morning in two of the cities largest and most beautiful mosques: the Sultan Qaboos Mosque or Grand Mosque, and the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque.

Non-Muslim visitors (in modest dress, of course) are only welcomed into these holy places during restricted hours, but I had a local guide to maximise my time and to explain what I was seeing.

Traditionally, Islam doesn’t allow the depictions of human or animal figures in religious art, in part because of the prohibition against idolatry and the fear that people will respect or worship the creation whilst forgetting the Creator, and in part from the belief that the creation of living things is God’s prerogative as the divine musawwir (maker of forms, artist).

So, the beauty of mosques is in their architectural structures, and in the richly complex and intricate patterns that decorate them.

The typical mosque form includes ten elements (see: Rethinking the Future), comprising: domes, usually as a part the roofs and often with an oculus to let in light; arches, generally marking the entrances to buildings and rooms; muqarnas, a type of honey-combed ornamental vaulting on the underside of domes or arches, from the Arabic word ‘qarnasi ’meaning ‘intricate work’; tall minarets, often with balconies; a mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque which faces Mecca and marks the direction for prayers; Arabesque art; a rectangular or square hypostyle hall; courtyards; gardens; and an iwan, a rectangular hall with walls on three sides and one open side.

The decoration of mosques relies on three principle motifs: complex tessellations of geometric patterns; arabesques inspired by the curving and branching of plants; and stylised calligraphy of religious texts in Arabic.

Exploring the beautiful Indian sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world, and the newer marble-clad Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, we can see all of these elements in situ.

Distant approach to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Approaching the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
On the walk up to the Grand Mosque, we get a sense of space, and can appreciate the architectural elements of the surrounding gardens, the dome, and a minaret. The mosque was built between 1994 and 2001 using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone.

The dome of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque from the entry, Muscat Oman

Dome in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
The beautiful filigree dome rises 50 metres (160 ft) above the floor of the main musalla or prayer hall.

Portrait: Male Omani, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oma

Omani Guide
Our guide, Said (from NTT Oman), wearing his blue and white muzzar, gives us a briefing before we go inside.

Arches inside the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Repeated Patterns 
With the minaret in the background, the arches inside the mosque are reflected in the shiny patterned floor in the foreground.

Lamps and arched ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Lanterns Above
Intricate patterns are everywhere I look – in the ceiling and the filagree lamps above …

Stained glass arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Stained Glass Arch
… and in the colours of the lead-light glass in windows.

Painted Patterned Ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Inlayed Patterned Ceiling

Omani man in a thawb, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Omani Man in a Thawb

Light and Dark

Dome and Blue Sky, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Dome and Blue Sky

Arch and Lamp, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Lamp

 Arch and Minaret, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Minaret

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall
The gold-plated Swarovski crystal chandelier at the centre of the prayer hall is 14 metres (46 feet) tall, and until 2007, was the largest in the world. 

Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arches and Chandeliers
A number of smaller chandeliers of the same design decorate and light the building.

People and the Mihrab, Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Mihrab
The mihrab (or qibla wall) indicates the direction to the Kaaba in Mecca. The honeycomb muqarna above it symbolises the complexity of Islamic ideology.

Outdoor arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch to the Outside
Delicately carved arches frame the surrounding mountains.

Holy Books, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Holy Books

Seated woman, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Woman at Rest

Arched Corridors, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arched Corridors

Outside the prayer hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Gardeners in the Courtyard
The main musalla or prayer hall is 74.4 by 74.4 metres (244 by 244 feet) square, and can hold over 6500 worshippers.

The Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Bright White
A short drive away, the magnificent marble-clad Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque is smaller and newer than the Grand Mosque. Sometimes called the Bahwan Mosque after its benefactors, it sits up on a hill and can be seen from all parts of the city.

Elaborate Interior, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Elaborate Interior

Omani guide with a holy book, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Guide with a Holy Book
Said shows us one of the many ornately decorated religious books at the mosque.

Filigree Lamps in the Ladies Prayer Hall, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Filigree Lamps
Men and women are separated during prayer. The Ladies Prayer Hall is empty and dimly lit when we enter.

Marble portico, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Riwaq
Arcades or porticos, open on at least one side, are a common element in Islamic architecture and design.

Mosque Library
Countless gilded volumes fill the shelves of library.

Portrait: two young Omani men at a library table, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Religious Students
Two of the scholars in the library are happy to take a break from their work and chat with us.

Marble minarets against a blue sky, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Marble Minarets
All the columns and walls of the mosque are cladded with white Italian Carrara marble, so it shines in the morning sun. At night, the mosque is bathed in blue floodlights.

These two mosques are truly beautiful examples of Islamic architecture – and were quite a delicate contrast to the many Omani forts I later visited.

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

 

Pictures: 20October2019

  • […] HallOur first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around […]ReplyCancel

  • […] a day of exploring Muscat at ground level (see: Sacred Spaces and Between the Past and the Future), I had the chance to take a sunset cruise on the Arabian Sea […]ReplyCancel

  • Dhanika Ranasinghe - November 14, 2021 - 8:14 am

    Accidentally dropped into your page while looking for some photos of Al Ameen Mosque. As one of the architects heavily involved in the design & construction of the Al Ameen Mosque, I felt extremely happy to see your post, which is very accurate.

    As you have written, both Grand Mosque & Al Ameen Mosque have somewhat similar architectural language/ features. It is no wonder when both were designed by the same architect !!!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 14, 2021 - 9:04 am

      Hi Dhanika,
      So lovely of you to stop in and leave a comment – how wonderful that you are involved in creating such beautiful buildings! I’m very glad you didn’t find any errors in the text – I am pretty careful. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Tesis Early Oman | geoabbasid's Blog - September 9, 2022 - 10:17 am

    […] Lines and Curves and Sacred Spaces: Two Muscat Mosques, Oman. ursulas weekly – link. […]ReplyCancel

Bright green house front with plants on the porch, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Cheerful House Front
The narrow streets and laneways of Colombo’s Slave Island district are full of colourful buildings that speak to the area’s rich multicultural heritage.

A walking tour with a companion and a camera is a great way to get to know a section of city, and to absorb the local colour and history. 

I was lucky enough to have a friend who had been living and working in Colombo, Sri Lanka, for a few years before I visited the city. As two photography enthusiasts who hadn’t seen each other for many years and had plenty to talk about, we had a wonderful time alternating coffee, lunch, and dinner stops with some serious photo-walking around the city. After a morning of chasing Buddhas in two of Colombo’s very eclectic temples (see: Buddhas of Colombo), and a lunch break, we went for a wander through the suburb of Slave Island.

More commonly known to those who live there as Kampong Kertel or Kompanna Veediya, during the period of British colonial rule (from 1796 to around 1865), this Colombo district was called Slave Island in reference to the slaves held there under Portuguese colonial rule (1505- 1638).

The Portuguese, who first arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, brought around 1,600 ‘Kaffir’ East African slaves from Goa to what was then Ceylon. The popular story is that in the 18th century, under Dutch rule, the Kaffir population had grown to larger numbers, giving them a sense of strength: they mounted an insurrection, resulting destruction of property and deaths. After subduing the riot, the Dutch started housing the Kaffirs on an island in Beira Lake, which at the time was full of crocodiles.

According to one academic article I found (GHCC Annual Lecture 2019), this whole story is apocryphal. But, the name itself stuck – even after the area was connected by bridges and causeways to the rest of the city.

Today, Slave Island is part of Colombo’s Postal District 2, and is predominantly a re-developed commercial area with hotels, shopping centres and street-food stalls. But, there are still narrow laneways packed with colourful homes, and multi-story shop-houses. The area is known for its multicultural heritage, and remains a mix of Malay, SinhaleseTamil, as well as minority cultural groups. IslamicBuddhistHindu, and Christian houses of worship sit in close proximity to each other.

Join us for a wander through the streets and laneways of Slave Island:

Arched windows on an empty building, Colombo Sri Lanka

Empty Building
Many of the buildings in District 2 stand deserted and peeling.

Wall art, Park Street Mews Colombo Sri Lanka

Park Street Mews
Other parts of District 2 have been redeveloped. The Mews is a cluster of old warehouses that has been turned into a vibrant collection of restaurants, bars, and event spaces. (iPhone6)

Golden statue in front of the arched window of the Holy Rosary Church, Slave Island Colombo

Holy Rosary Church
Roughly 11% of Colombo’s population is Roman Catholic. This charming little church in Slave Island is popularly know as the Infant Jesus Church.

Rio Cinema building, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Rio Cinema
I love the textures of this old building. It opened in February 1965 screening South Pacific – and finishing out its days showing pornographic films. The building was looted and burned during the 1983 riots, and now stands as an empty shell and an occasional venue for pop-up exhibitions, art festivals, and music gigs.

Sri Murugan Temple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Sri Murugan Temple
Down a narrow laneway, and with Colombo’s Lotus Tower in the background, …

Murugan Temple Bell Tower, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Bell Tower
… we find Sri Murugan Temple, one of Slave Island’s Hindu temples.

Fat deity with musical instruments, Sri Murugan Temple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

A Musical Deity
Every surface of the temple is decorated with creatures …

Hindu Gods, Sri Murugan Temple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Deities in an Alcove
… and colourfully painted figures depicting Hindu stories.

Al Qadir Hanafi Jummah Masjid, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Al Qadir Hanafi Jummah Masjid
Down another laneway, a beautifully painted mosque calls people to prayer.

Blue House Front, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Blue House Front
So many of the old homes are beautifully kept …

Rough wall in green and purple, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Colours on a Wall
… and the colours and textures of the old walls are visually interesting.

Tuk Tuks in the Street, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Tuk Tuks in the Street
Everywhere I look, on the arterial roads …

Child on a Bicycle in a laneway, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Child on a Bicycle
… and down winding lanes, life is happening.

Street Art, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Street Art

Black and white flip-flops on a red step, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Stillife Found : Shoes on the Step
Shoes are not worn indoors in Southeast Asia, so there is footwear to be found on every front step.

Activity in the Street, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

A Hive of Activity

People in the Street, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

In a Hurry

Six seated girls, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

The Cousins
I was really pleased to come across these young girls – and their mothers – before it got too dark.

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a blue top, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Girl in Blue
Cousins and siblings, they are growing up as friends in this small neighbourhood.

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a pink flowered top, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Girl in Florals
They were great fun …

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a green flowered top, Slave Island Colombo

Girl in Green
… and enjoyed posing, …

Portrait: Sri Lankan girl in a denim top, Slave Island Colombo

Girl in Denim
… and showing the results on the back of the camera to their mothers.

Man on a yellow balcony, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Man on a Yellow Balcony
Overhead, the neighbours were curious.

Sri Lankan woman and girl on a purple balcony, Slave Island Colombo, Sri Lanka

Woman and Girl on a Balcony

Sundown over Beira Lake, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sundown over Beira Lake
The afternoon grew late, and the sun dropped behind the high rises in the redeveloped end of Slave Island. (iphone6)

There are those that say that the buildings in the remaining old sections of Slave Island are not properly maintained and are run down. There is certainly the risk that the push towards urban renewal will destroy the cohesive streets and charming character of the traditional shophouse-style buildings.

The neighbourhood was a joy to wander through, and the people we met were friendly and welcoming – something often lost in those shiny new high rises.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 10November2018

Crystal Crag and reflection in Lake Mary, California USA

Crystal Crag and Lake Mary
The icy waters of Lake Mary in California’s Mammoth Lakes Basin are a perfect reflecting pool for the unusual granite rock-tower behind.

California’s Eastern Sierras are a jaw-droppingly beautiful outdoor playground.

How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers).

July, when I visited, is the hottest month of the year in these mountains, but the air cools dramatically overnight. It was cold (about 8°C; 47°F) and dark when we got up on my second morning in Coleville. With our cameras and tripods in tow, we set off on a short drive and brisk walk to watch the sun rising over a river bend, high in the Sonora Pass.

Locals will tell you this is the best place in California to live. Mono County is more than 50 times less densely populated than the state as a whole, and clearly appeals to a younger demographic (see: Towncharts: Mono). What it lacks in population, it makes up in unique outdoor beauty. Lee Vining, where we stopped for lunch, for example, is a locality of less than 200 people! But, being on the southwest shore of Mono Lake, near the east entrance of Yosemite National Park, and a short drive from the Bodie State Historic Park (see: Light, Lines and Reflections), it survives on tourism.

The town of Mammoth Lakes, with a population of just over 8,000, is more substantial – but still surrounded by wild beauty that is popular in every season. We spent that evening and the next several days based there before returning to Coleville (population <500).

This is arid country, with most of its precipitation falling as winter snows, so we had crisp, clear skies for our walks among the seasonal flowers. Do join us:

Sunrise view of riverside valley forest, and surrounding mountains, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

A Bend in the River
Drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees cling to the rocky riverbanks here, where a low shutter speed slows down the racing waters. In the predawn light, you can just see the snow on the mountains in the distance.

Closeup: pine needles, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Pine Needles
Looking at the dried out needles at the end of these branches, you can understand how fires tore through this region in August-September of 2020.

Photographer with a tripod, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Photographer in the Frame

Sunrise view of riverside valley forest, and surrounding mountains, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Morning Sun on the Mountains
Just after six in the morning, a golden glow touches the mountains in the background.

Morning sun rays behind a dark hill, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

Sun Below the Horizon
Finally! The sun breaks over the trees and sagebrush behind us.

Prospector mannequin, Whoa Nellie Deli, Lee Vining, CA USA

“Prospector Pete”
This is mining country: silver ore was found in Mono County in 1862, and gold was discovered shortly after. The shop at the Whoa Nellie Deli, in Lee Vining where we stopped for lunch on our way to Mammoth Lakes, pays tribute to the old prospectors. (iPhone4S)

A dirt walking track in the Sierras, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Afternoon in the Sierras
Once we are settled into our accommodation in Mammoth Lakes, we set out again on a late afternoon hike.

Trees and mountains, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Trees in the Hills
The skies are clear and the air is hot and dry.

European Starling in a pine tree, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

European Starling – Sturnus Vulgaris
I was so excited to spot some wildlife – until I realised it was an introduced common starling!

Indian Paintbrush, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja
Wildflowers dot the hills and line the tracks.

Hairy Mule’s Ear, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss

White Wildflowers, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

White Wildflowers
I couldn’t find a name for these flowers – ironically, there is a picture of them in the Bishop California wildflower brochure, but even there, they are not labeled.

Upended tree stump, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Natures Artwork

Common gorse, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Gorse
As pretty as it is, common gorse is considered an invasive plant in California.

House rooftops on a ridge, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

A Big Backyard
Even around housing developments, there is a real sense of space.

Stump in Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Stump in the Lake
Our last stop – late in the day – was at Lake Mary, the largest of the of the Mammoth Lakes.

Fly fisherman, Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Fly Fishing
The freshwater lake is popular for fishing …

Fly fisherman, Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Got One!
… for rainbow, brook, and brown trout.

Lake Mary from the west, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Lake Mary from the West
We were there to collect a family member who was practicing for an ironman swim in the mile-wide waters.

Canopy boat on a dock, Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Boat on Lake Mary
On the last day of our stay in Mammoth Lakes, we made another trip to Lake Mary – this time in the early morning. The lake has two marinas, and little rented kayaks were already out on the water. (iPhone4S)

Crystal Crag and reflection in Lake Mary, California USA

Crystal Crag
At 3159 metres (10364 feet), the granite rock tower on Crystal Crag is a challenging, but popular, climb starting from nearby Lake George.

Mountain from Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Kayak on Mary Lake
We opt for more sedate activities.

Kayaks on the shores of Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Kayak Colours
There are plenty of rentals available if you don’t have your own boat. I love the colours and patterns they make in the almost-still waters.

Trees and mountains and Lake Mary, Mammoth Lakes, CA USA

Lake Mary Stillness
Our endurance swimmer, in his full-body wetsuit against the cold, hardly disturbs the morning peace. (iPhone4S)

California Milkweed, Coleville, CA USA

California Milkweed (Asclepias californica)
Later, as evening falls, we are back in Coleville for a last walk …

Moonrise in the Eastern Sierras Coleville, CA USA

Moonrise in the Eastern Sierras
… and to watch the moon rise over the surrounding hills. (iPhone4S)

I live at sea level these days, and my morning walks are mostly on the flat, so walking in the Sierras where our starting-points were between 1600 – 2900 metres was a challenge!

Text: Take only PicturesBut, it was well worth the effort.

I’m so glad I have the photos to look back on: with our Australian borders locked down tight, it will be a long time before I get back there – or anywhere else!

Happy Travels …

Photos: 15 and 21July2013

Arched stone bridges on a canal, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

Waterways and Bridges
Amsterdam lives up to its reputation as a city of canals and bicycles. The city sits about two metres below sea level, and is criss-crossed by waterways and bridges.

The Netherlands is known for its flat landscape punctuated by canals and dikes.

If fact, I was taught at school that dyke was a Dutch word. While it is true that dijk (pronounced ‘dyke’) is a common word in Dutch, it comes from the same Old German word that gave English ‘ditch’.

Sadly, the little Dutch boy who put his finger in a hole in a dyke to keep his town from flooding is virtually unknown in the Netherlands: this story was popularised by American author Mary Mapes Dodge and probably based on a French children’s tale, Le Petit Éclusier, first seen in the mid-1800s.

So, a few myths shattered!

And, contrary to our expectations, even though it was spring and we had seen plenty of tulips and windmills in Belgium the day before (see: Flanders Fields and Beaches), we saw none on our day’s stop in Holland.

We were on our last days on a small ocean cruiser, having come from the Mediterranean, up the Atlantic, through the English Channel and into the North Sea. Amsterdam was the penultimate stop before we departed the ship in Bergen, Norway, and we were determined to make the most of it.

Amsterdam has more than 100 km (60 mi) of canals – more than Venice – so exploring the downtown in a glass-topped canal boat is the perfect way to get a leisurely view of some of the city’s beautiful, narrow-fronted gable houses. In the Middle Ages, the city was surrounded by a moat called the Singel; this now forms the innermost horseshoe-shaped ring around the city. The Singelgracht, together with the Keizersgracht, Herengracht, and Prinsengracht, comprise the UNESCO-listed Amsterdam Canal District: designed at the end of the 16th century, built in the 17th century, and later lauded as a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering, town planning, and a rational programme of construction and bourgeois architecture.

Unfortunately, our canal boat broke down half way through our morning, leaving us stranded before we got to see some of the sights: like the Sloten Windmill made famous by Rembrandt. The timing of our rescue transport meant we missed the afternoon tour we had planned. 

But, we did ride some of the canals and walked some of the tree-lined streets. Do come along!

The National Maritime Museum, Amsterdam The Netherlands

The National Maritime Museum
It is only fitting, in a city surrounded by water and in a country built on its ships, that the first building we pass as we bus into the city is the National Maritime Museum. Originally built in 1656, and reconstructed and modernised in 2011, the building sits on an artificial island constructed over 1800 wooden piles driven into Amsterdam Harbour. One of the many exhibits in the collection is the replica of the three masted Dutch East India Company vessel Amsterdam, which sank in 1749. (iPhone6)

Dutch guide in a red jacket, canal boat, Amsterdam The Netherlands

Viking Cruise Guide
Our guide escorts us from the bus to our canal boat …

Rijksmuseum from the canal, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Rijksmuseum
… and we chug through the 17th century UNESCO-listed canal system and past old buildings, like the 19th-century Dutch national museum dedicated to arts and history.

View through a canal boat window, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Layers – Canal Boat on a Canal
It was a glorious spring day and the sun shimmered through the fresh green leaves and bounced off the water. Although Amsterdam is fabled for its rainy weather, we were spared!

Pancake restaurant from the canals, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Amsterdam from the Canals
Classic Dutch pancakes, or pankoeken, are a popular treat.

Portrait: Dutch woman at the helm of a canal boat, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Our Skipper
It must run in families: our skipper’s father also worked on the canal boats.

Canal junction, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Water, Water …
The waters go on forever. Four of these canals form the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) of Amsterdam, but unless I have unique buildings as reference points, I can’t remember which one we were on at any given time.

Circle Line canal boat and arched bridges, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Circle Line and Bridges
This may be the land of Rembrandt, but these waterways make me think of the much later Impressionists.

Westerkerk on the Prinsengracht, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Westerkerk on the Prinsengracht
The Renaissance-style Western Church was built between 1620 and 1631.

Westerkerk, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

The Westertoren
At 87 meters (285 feet), the western tower is the highest church tower in Amsterdam. The crown at the top of the spire is modelled on the Imperial Crown of Austria of Maximilian I.

On the Prinsengracht, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Dappled Light

Dutch Delft in a shop, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Dutch Delft
Our boat stopped to let us explore some of the local shops.

Portrait: blond Dutch boatman, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Blond Boatman
Meanwhile, other boats and their skippers chug past us; there are countless tours running on canals.

Anne Frank House, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Anne Frank House
The 17th-century canal house that reputedly hid Anne Frank during World War II was opened as a museum on 3 May 1960.

Bridge over a canal, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

On the Bridges
Cars are discouraged in the inner city; pedestrians and bicycles abound.

Two women in a small Canal Tour boat, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

With a Boat and a Map
Many tourists explore the city on their own.

Houseboat on a canal, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Houseboat
The canals are lined with houseboats – many are residences or rentals.

Amsterdam Centraal Railway on the water, The Netherlands

Amsterdam Centraal Railway
Opened in 1889, the rambling Gothic -Renaissance Revival railway station was designed by Pierre Cuypers – the same architect responsible for the Rijksmuseum we saw earlier. I particularly liked the wind-indicator clock on the central tower.

Amsterdam Visitor Centre on the water, The Netherlands

Amsterdam Visitor Centre
The rather beautiful wooden information centre is a short walk from the railway station.

Sea Palace, Lake IJ, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Sea Palace
On the way back to our ship, we pass a complete contrast in architecture: Europe’s first floating restaurant – the three-story floating pagoda-style Asian restaurant on Lake IJ.

Bicycle and row housing, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Bicycles
After lunch on our ship, we walked back into the old city.

Old Amsterdam from Zeeburg, The Netherlands

Bicycle Parking
Bicycles are everywhere! The towers of the 19th century Basilica of Saint Nicholas and the 15th century Schreierstoren sit in the background.

Recycled Plastic Boat, Oostertoegang, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Recycled-Plastic Boat
Europe has always done better with waste than many other parts of the developed world: these boat on the Oostertoegang are a good example.

The Schreierstoren, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

The Schreierstoren
Known as the Weeping Tower, this 15th tower was part of the medieval city wall around Amsterdam. It was from here that Henry Hudson set sail in 1609, eventually ‘discovering’ New Amsterdam (New York) on the Hudson River.

Red Door at the Schreierstoren, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Red Door at the Schreierstoren
In various places around the old city, I looked at metal plaques thinking they would afford me information; they were commercial sign boards!

Kloveniersburgwal, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Kloveniersburgwal
The canals look different from the ground than they do from the water.

EYE Film Institute Netherlands, Amsterdam

EYE Film Institute Netherlands (2012)
While Amsterdam is generally associated with medieval and Dutch Golden Age architecture, as our ship pulls out of the cruise terminal we catch glimpses of the city’s more modern conceptions.

Although we didn’t see as much as we would have liked, we got a brief taste of the city. 

And – luckily for us – Amsterdam didn’t live up to another attribute in its reputation: it didn’t rain!

All in all, a pleasant visit.

Photos: 25April2018

Portrait: A young Kara girl in beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Youngster
A young girl from Dus Village, in the remote reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, meets the camera with bold confidence.

The Kara/Karo people, a small tribe of Omotic people, living on the east bank of the Lower Omo River in Ethiopia, are perhaps best known for their love of beads and face paint.

With fewer than two thousand members, the Kara are one of the smallest tribes in the region. They are related to the Hamar (see: The Hamar), and share some linguistic features and cultural practices with the Hamar-Banna-Bashada tribal cluster. The Kara fish, raise goats, and farm sorghum, trading with the Hamar and the Dassanech (see: A Daasanach Village) for other necessities.

This relationship with the Hamar is a double-edge sword, bringing the Kara into ongoing conflict with the much bigger and more aggressive Nyangatom tribe who live on the other side of the Omo River – on lands the Kara say were once theirs. As I have written before (see: The Kara of Dus Village), inter-tribal conflicts have continued for generations. Men need to show their ability to protect the village and herds, and must own an AK47 before they are allowed to marry (see: Men and Goats and Dust). 

I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour, and the Kara residents of Dus Village were more than welcoming to us. This area is remote, even by Ethiopian standards, with no wired electricity or running water, and certainly no “tourist accommodation”. Thanks to Grand Holidays Ethiopia, we were comfortably lodged in a mobile campsite, complete with portable toilets and showers, deep in the heart of Kara territory.

This meant we had proximity to the largest of the three Kara villages. We visited it several times (eg: Visits to a Kara Village) and spent some meaningful time with these beautiful people in their own environment.

Do join me:

Kara villagers in blankets, early morning, Dus Village Ethiopia

Morning in Dus Village
It is early morning on the plateau at the edges of Dus Village. People wrapped in blankets are gathered around as the village chiefs deal with miscreants involved in a minor conflict the day before.

Kara men on their stools, early morning, Dus Village Ethiopia

Men in the Morning
The men sit on their small stools carved from acacia wood as they await the decision of the arbitrators.

Three Kara children in Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kids in the Village
The many young children in the village are both shy and curious.

Two Kara children in Dus Village, Ethiopia

Friends in the Beads
It’s very early, and the sun is just sneaking past the conical huts.

Portrait: Old Kara woman in tartan cloth, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Old Woman in Tartan Cloth

Portrait: Kara mother and child, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Mother and Child
Kara women often crop their hair close at the sides, tie it into knots at the top, and like the Hamar, dress it with ochre.

Kara woman with three young children, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Mother and Children
Beads and babies are everywhere.

Portrait: Elegant young Kara woman in a cloth, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Elegant Young Woman
Most people are wrapped in cloths against the morning chill.

Portrait: Old Kara woman in cloth, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Old Woman
There is a regal bearing to these people as they go about their early morning routines.

Portrait: Kara man in profile, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Man in Profile
They are a good looking people, …

Portrait: Kara man in a plaid cloth, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Man in Blue
… and meet the camera’s gaze unselfconsciously.

Portrait: Young Kara man wrapped in a white sheet, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Striped Sheets and Shadows

Young Kara boy at a grain store, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Young Boy at a Grain Store

Portrait: Young Kara boy in ochre body paint, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Boy in Ochre
Kara body art encompasses a range of styles, from smeared clay to elaborate paint. I had to admire the strong wicker weaving pattern that went into the elevated grain storage containers.

Morning on the Omo River, Dus Village Ethiopia

Morning on the Omo River
It is a beautiful spot on the river – but it is not an easy life.

Two Kara women at the Omo River, Dus Village Ethiopia

Women at the Omo River
Kara livelihood is determined by the rhythms of the floods along the Omo River; when the inundation of water recedes, the Kara pierce the rich mud with sticks and plant their crops, using a practice little changed in hundreds of years.

Portrait: Kara woman in layered beads, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Woman
The morning sun shines brightly on the skin of the young women.

Portrait: Grand Holidays Ethiopia Guide, Dus Village

Ethiopian Guide
Our guide was as knowledgeable as he was good looking. Each tribe and every village has a different set of rules for visitors and pricing code for photographs, and he helped us navigate it all smoothly.

Goat among the grain stores, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goat among the Grain Stores
The prevalence of tsetse fly, which attacks large cattle, lead the Kara to focus on goats and sheep, which are less vulnerable. They keep a few cattle, but that meat is reserved for special occasions.

Portrait: Kara children in face paint, Dus Village, Ethiopia.

Children in Spots

Portrait: Two Kara Children with face paint and a goat, Dus Village, Ethiopia.

Children with a Goat
The children are well aware that posing with a cute kid makes them more attractive to tourists, and they will therefore earn more birr.

Portrait: Kara woman in bangles and beads, Dus Village Ethiopia

Woman in Bangles
Both men and women love their jewellery. Like the Hamar, Kara women wear a goatskin smock, bordered with cowrie shells and embroidered with beads for special occasions.

Portrait: Kara woman in beaded headdress and necklaces, Dus Village Ethiopia

Woman in Beads
It is common for Kara women, men, and even children, to wear a nail, a stick, or a piece of grass sticking out of their chin through an incision made under their bottom lip.

Portrait: Kara child in face paint, Dus Village, Ethiopia.

Beads and Circles

Kara woman with a hand full of grain outside her hut, Dus Village, Ethiopia.

Woman with Grain
Kara housing is very like that of the Hamar: upright wooden poles are woven together and covered with a layer of mud, and topped with a conical roof made of straw and tree branches.

Portrait: Kara child in face paint and beads, Dus Village, Ethiopia.

Red, Blue, and White Beads
Face paint and body paints are made from pulverised local white chalk, yellow mineral rock, red iron ore, and black charcoal.

Portrait: Kara child in face paint and beads, Dus Village, Ethiopia.

Girl in Spots and Beads
These lovely designs are chalk and mineral rock with ochre.

The village offers up endless photographic possibilities, but it was almost nine am, and time for our breakfast.

Text: Happy RamblingBut, we’d be back!

Until then, 

Happy Rambling!

Photos: 21October2018