Jen Mallinson Metal Bird over Tips, Panboola Wetlands Pambula NSW Australia.

Public Art – Local Heritage – Public Space
The tones of a rusty metal bird in flight compliment the grassy wetlands of Tips Billabong and the weathered boards of The Old Bar in the background.

It was a glorious Autumn day. 

The mood of the participants at the annual Ephemeral – a one day festival celebrating the ever-changing light and landscape of the Panboola Wetlands – was one of gratitude: gratitude for the weather, which was allowing us to wander and workshop outdoors in comfort; gratitude for the space, which is protected by its Environmental Organisation status; and gratitude for the community, whose members had managed to remain in good cheer, and had come together to commune, educate, and entertain. 

It has been a long couple of years in this section of the country – as it has in many parts of the world. The festival was cancelled last year because of the Covid lockdowns, and for many months before that, communities in the area were battling unprecedented fires. In the weeks before the festival, many locals were again cut off: this time by flooding caused by well-above-average rainfalls that pummelled us for days. And, while fluctuating water-levels are be expected in a floodplain, the waters swept through at such a damaging rate that even heavy benches were moved. 

Fortunately, the Panboola Wetlands are supported by an army of volunteers who swung into action as soon as the rains abated, and by the time the festival was upon us, the walking tracks and open spaces winding around 82 hectare-space looked wonderful. When I arrived on the day, shortly before the festival was due to open up to the public, yarn art and origami cranes decorated the trees, and the artists and crafts-people and volunteers were already busy setting up.

Since my first visit to the Wetlands in 2013 (see: The Pinnacles and Panboola), I’ve become a volunteer – albeit not a very regular or conscientious one. But, I’m happy to spend a few weekly hours cleaning pathways, or counting flying foxes, or weeding out invasive plant species. There is something about these lands: every time I walk onto them, I feel a lifting of my spirit.

The Ephemeral festival is a collaboration between the Lonely Arts Club Pambula and the Pambula Wetlands and Heritage Project. Through various grants from State, Regional and Local governments, it show-cases local talent and draws the community in to celebrate this unique landscape.

In years past, I’ve been away while the festival has been on, so I was looking forward to wandering with my cameras this year.

It did not disappoint!

Colourful umbrella and people, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Preparations
In the cool of the morning, crafts-people and workshop facilitators are already setting up their spaces when I arrive.

An artist and his muse in the grass, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

A Painter and his Muse
Origami cranes – part of the Community Peace & Harmony Installation – flutter from the trees as local artist Lachlan Barratt sits with a blank sheet of paper and a view he likes.

Jen Mallinson melal sculptures around Tips Billabong, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Sculpture around Tips Billabong
Award-winning sculptor Jen Mallinson has a number of her beautiful, flowing metal sculptures installed on the site.

Artist Jen Mallinson and the sculpture Aqueous, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Jen Mallinson and Aqueous
Later in the morning, I came across the artist talking about her metal sculpture to some interested visitors.

People gathered, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Coffee and Chat in the Shade
A coffee and a catch-up with friends is always popular. Hay bales are colourfully covered in fabrics to make temporary seating areas.

Julie Krone conducting a Blockprinting Workshop, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Julie Krone
New Zealand-born, local-resident artist Julie Krone conducted two popular nature-inspired block printing workshops.

Tabitha Bilaniwskyj-Zarins and people with spinning wheels, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Spinning with Tabitha Bilaniwskyj-Zarins
Meanwhile, Tabitha Bilaniwskyj-Zarins from Tabandy Farm in near-by Candelo, talks to workshop participants about spinning yarn and creating textiles.

People around a table, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Making “Postcards from Panboola”
All around the grounds, workshops have started …

Portrait: Michelle Richmond, Project Coordinator, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Keeping an Eye on Proceedings
… and Michelle Richmond, Panboola Project Coordinator can take a breath, knowing it is all under way smoothly.

Portrait: Hilary Peterson, artist, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Hilary Peterson
The workshop conducted by visual artist and Bega Valley resident Hilary Peterson

Group working on Postcards from Panboola with Hilary Peterson, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

“Postcards from Panboola”
… starts with participants exploring the textures and colours of the nature all around them.

Panboola volunteers under a marquee, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Panboola Volunteers
With coffees and smiles, volunteers sell products and hand out information.

Portrait: Sharon Stevens, artist and educator, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Artist and Educator Sharon Stevens
Several workshops target youngsters, including Botanical Drawing

Author Gabbie Stroud and youngsters, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Author Gabbie Stroud
… and Youth Writing.

Orbs by Tharwa Valley Forge in Tips Billabong, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Orbs by Tharwa Valley Forge
The midmorning sun over Tips Billabong is a sparkling contrast to the beautiful rough textures of the iron orbs, donated and installed by the Tharwa Valley Forge, Canberra.

Detail: Flowered orb by Tharwa Valley Forge, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Flowered Orb
Some of the metalworks are on dry land – where we can examine them more closely.

Sculpture: Industrial Derevolution, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Industrial Derevolution
Sculptor Mark Thompson installed his latest work (on loan) along side Tips Billabong.

Portrait: Phil Inn, Bush Poet, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Bush Poetry
Reciting the works of ‘Banjo’ Paterson, Phil Inn entertains …

Portrait: Phil Inn, Bush Poet, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Phil Inn
… among the gum trees.

Portrait: Ge Warburton, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Botanical Drawing Workshop
Trained arborist and botanical artist Ge Warburton gets her participants ….

Woman holding a banksia bloom, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Banksia – Botanical Drawing
… to really look at their specimens as they practice drawing.

Women holding banksia and gum nut flowers, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Women Drawing

Purple-painted leaf drawing, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Children’s Botanical Drawings
The children’s finished artworks are quite lovely – and the kids were rightly proud.

Hands sponging ink through a stencil, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Stencil Stamping
The group making folded postcards have finished their base painting, and are ready to overlay contrasting shapes …

Stencil work, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Postcards from Panboola
… using beautiful stencils that Hilary Peterson has pre-cut of creatures found at the wetlands.

Women working with flowers and leaves, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Wreaths and Bouquets
Working with natural materials that the Wyndham Basket Weavers have brought along, anyone interested can spin, or weave, or create wreaths or bouquets.

Young dancer performing, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

“Echo-Location”
Performances punctuate the morning. A group of children: y-fLiNG & Flux of Fling Physical Theatre, represent the creatures and moods of the wetlands.

Performers Latvian Independence Day, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Latvian Independence Day
A swan and a possum performed a few musical sets.

Origami cranes on a table, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Origami Cranes
The Community Peace and Harmony group invites people to make more cranes …

Origami crane on a string, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Crane for Peace and Harmony
… to be hung all around the venue.

Grey cloth with nature-inspired block-print, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Blockprinting with Julie Krone
I admire a piece of fabric printed by one of the women in the first blockprinting workshop …

Close-up: hands drawing a leaf on a printing block, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Drawing Printing Blocks
… before the second workshop gets underway, …

Close-up: hands carving a butterfly on a printing block, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Carving a Printing Block
… and new participants create their printing blocks.

Panboola volunteers under a marquee, Ephemeral, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Michelle and a Volunteer
I drop in for coffee, a slice of pizza, and a laugh, …

Chalk Drawings on the Path, Panboola Wetlands, Pambula NSW Australia.

Chalk Drawings on the Path
… before heading down the newly-decorated pathway, and out of the wetlands.

Chances are good that that chalk will all be gone when I next go back.

Like the seasons on the wetlands and the performances at the festival, 

It is all impermanent and fleeting.

So, enjoy!

Photos: 17April2021

Portrait: four men in a Haridwar street, India.

Men in the Street
During the Kumbh Mela, the Haridwar streets were full of life and people.

India is in the news at the moment – because of Covid.

In spite of the fast-tracking of any vaccines the country can get hold of, a second wave of virus variants is sweeping the country. India now has the second-highest number of Covid cases in the world, and their public and private hospital systems are completely overwhelmed.

Couple this with a huge disparity in access to health, nutrition, and welfare services according to one’s place among the steeply-separated socio-economic classes – and the country’s inability to maintain any kind of preventative measures – and you have a recipe for disaster.

I was amazed to read that the state governments had refused to call off this year’s weeks-long Hindu festival of Kumbh Mela in Haridwar. Indian cities – including the sacred city of Haridwar – are wonderfully crowded and chaotic at the most ‘ordinary’ of times, and an unimaginable crush (see: A Crush of Happy Humanity) during a Kumbh Mela.

As I’ve written before (eg: Faces in the Crowd), a Kumbh Mela is a Hindu festival that takes place roughly every three years at one of four sacred pilgrimage sites. UNECO-listed for its rich cultural importance, this mela (festival) has been called the largest peaceful congregation of pilgrims on earth. The last was held across 55 days at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. It attracted more than 200 million people, with 50 million attending on the festival’s most auspicious day. This year, numbers are well down, but not low enough to allow for social distancing: between 3.1 and 5 million people are expected on the equivalent days (see: The Conversation; India Today).

I was at the last mela in Haridwar, Uttarakhand, and found the press of humanity in the streets quite staggering (see: Crowds on the Move). On the most auspicious day – February 14th, 2010, when the attached pictures were taken – an estimated 10 million people took their ritual bath in the Ganges.

On the busiest days, I stayed well away from the bathing ghats themselves, and instead wandered around the arterial roads as pilgrims walked in and out of the city’s centre. Many of these pilgrims were happy to chat and wanted their pictures taken.

I’m always amazed how open and friendly so many people are in these foreign environments. Either side of the main roads, people in shops, homes, and temples got on with their every-day lives, and I was often welcomed in. At one point, I was admiring the beautiful facade of a building when a teenage girl with good English came out to ask me what I was doing. When I told her I was taking pictures because the building was so lovely, she went inside and consulted with her mum. I was invited in for tea – where I got to meet some of the five generations living in the home, and was given an explanation of the ritual offerings to the Mother Ganges that I had been a part of a few days prior.

It is almost impossible to imagine this happening here in my neighbourhood!

Join me for some portraits of the locals and visitors to Haridwar:

Two sadhus in a bicycle riskshaw, Haridwar India

Riding into Haridwar
On foot or by rickshaw, the sadhus arrive into Haridwar.

A man on his sewing machine, Haridwar India

A Man and his Sewing Machine
Street traders and vendors are kept busy as the pilgrims keep coming.

Motion blur: A man

Street Sewing Machine
Every-day life goes on around the busy streets.

Portrait: Sadhu in white, Haridwar India

Sadhu in White
There are temples and sadhus …

Portrait: Sadhu in red and orange, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Red
… in every nook and cranny I check out.

Portrait: Man in an earring and a bindi, Haridwar India

Man in a Bindi
Many of the pilgrims stop for a bindi and a blessing before they continue to the bathing ghats.

Portrait: Old man in glasses, Haridwar India

Old Man in Glasses

Portrait: Young girl in red, Haridwar India

Girl in Red

Pilgrims walking in a Haridwar street, India

People in the Street

Decorated apartment entry, Haridwar India

Housing Doorway
When I was caught photographing this lovely entry way from outside the front fence …

Woman in her doorway, Haridwar India

Woman in her Doorway
… mum came out to size me up. Deciding I was harmless, she invited me in for tea!

Portrait: Young woman, Haridwar India

Young Woman
I then got to make portraits of her beautiful daughters against the rich textures of the outer building …

Young Woman in Pink
… or against the colourful fabrics adorning the walls indoors.

Portrait: Mother and toddler son, Haridwar India

Auntie and her Son
It is not uncommon for extended family to have their own rooms within a shared housing complex.

Portrait: Smiling young woman, Haridwar India

Smiling Young Woman

Portrait: The Matriarch, Haridwar India

The Matriarch
Several generations were under the one roof, and this was clearly the matriarch. There was an older woman in the central living room where we shared tea, but she was frail, and had clearly relinquished charge of the household.

Portrait: White haired man, Haridwar India

Charismatic Eyes
Back in the streets, the crowds keep walking, …

Two seated women, Haridwar India

Colourful Women
… or stop for a rest and a chat.

Hennaed palms, Haridwar India

Hennaed Hands
Henna is thought to bring positive spirits and good luck; the women walking into town were happy to show off their beautiful designs.

Portrait: Sadhu in a saffron turban, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Saffron
I find the sadhu’s endlessly fascinating …

Portrait: Sadhu in a saffron turban, Haridwar India

Masala Chai
… and enigmatic.

Sadhu smoking his chillum, Haridwar India

Smoking his Chillum
They travel light: just a blanket, a prayer book, a small bag of personal items, a container for holy water, and a chillum: a conical clay pipe.

Portrait: Woman in red, Haridwar India

Woman in Red
I love the vibrant colours …

Portrait: Woman in yellow, Haridwar India

Woman in Yellow
… and the elegance of the women.

Man in a makeshift campsite, Haridwar India

Makeshift Campsite
The travellers make do with very little.

Portrait: Woman smoking, Haridwar India

Woman Smoking
Cigarette breaks are welcome …

Portrait: smiling girl, Haridwar India

Smiling Girl
… and smiles are freely given.

Portrait: five men in a Haridwar street, India.

Young Friends Travelling Together

Hindus believe the Ganges is holy and that bathing in it will cleanse them of their sins and bring salvation – especially during a Kumbh Mela, which some call a Festival of Immortality.

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaThe Uttarakhand Chief Minister has recently been quoted as saying “faith in God will overcome the fear of the virus”; let us hope the sacred waters of the Mother Ganges mitigate the “super spreader” effect that many people expect from the current mela.

Safe Travels!

Photos: 14April2010

The backs of seated buddhas at Seema Malaka temple, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Buddhas over Beira Lake
Colombo, commercial and legislative capital of Sri Lanka, may well be a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural city – but it was the many Buddha statues, in all their different glorious forms, that stood out most for me.

Sri Lanka was a delight!

I hadn’t done any homework prior to travelling there, so it was also a delightful surprise. I expected (and got) colonial architecture and Hindu temples (see: Temples, Rains, and Ruins), but the number and variety of Buddhist sites in the country (eg: Dambulla Cave; Avukana Buddha; and Sigiriya) surprised me.

It shouldn’t have. Across the country, Buddhism is practiced by over 70% of the population, with Hinduism, Islam and Christianity splitting the other 30%.

In the Colombo Municipality area, however, this split is quite different: with Buddhism and Islam accounting for about 30% each, and Hinduism (22.6%) and Christianity (14.5%) following behind.

Even so, it was the Buddhas, in all their colourful glory and variety of sculptural styles, that stood out for me all around the city.

I went to Sri Lanka without a real plan: I had found a package deal which fit in with other travel my husband and I were committed to, and so we booked it. When the dates for the pre-paid trip finally rolled around, everything had changed, and I was travelling solo, going wherever the accommodation took me. Fortunately, in spite of a constitutional crisis and some major political upheavals while I was there (see: Parliament Dissolved), the country felt comfortable and safe, especially to an old Asia-hand.

I was particularly lucky with the Colombo stays at either end of my trip. My accommodation was wonderfully located: near enough to Viharamahadevi Park for me to walk my morning circuits there before undertaking the day’s activities. And, part of my second stop fell on a weekend, so a friend I knew living and working in the city was able to join me for some photowalks.

Come with us in search of Buddhas – and some other religious icons:

Golden Buddha statue, Viharamahadevi Park, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddha Blessings in the Morning
It was a short walk from my rooms to the spacious Viharamahadevi Park. Once there, my walking track took me past a giant golden Buddha. (iPhone6)

Sri Lankan couple in traditional dress, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Wedding Photos
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s most important Buddhist complexes: a place of worship and centre of learning. I walked past every day, and once was lucky enough to spot a couple in traditional dress having their wedding pictures made. (iPhone6)

Elephant head on a verandah, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Elephant Head
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s oldest Buddhist temples, and is an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture.

Vishnu-Buddha under red light, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Vishnu-Buddha
The iconography inside is also a rich mix of Buddhist and Hindu traditions: not surprising, considering Prince Siddhartha’s North-Indian Brahmin roots.

Sri Lankan woman praying, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Prayers
Visitors to the temple pay their respects to all the icons – although there are favourites.

Seated Yellow Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Yellow Buddha
The temple is packed with innumerable ornate Buddha statues.

Head shot: Yellow Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Buddha with a Flame Top Knot
Looking like highly polished porcelain, this Buddha features an ushnisha, the flame-like top knot that originated in Sri Lankan Buddhist sculpture.

Ceramic Buddha surrounded by Devas, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Surrounded by Devas
Some of the Buddha images are ornate and colourful, …

Alabaster Buddha surrounded by stone, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo

Devotion
… others are more subdued.

A row of bronze Theravada Buddhas, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Begging Bowls and Buddhas
You will always find a row of seven Buddhas in Theravada Buddhist temples: each representing a day of the week. They are sometimes in different postures according to the day. You are meant to pay respect to the statue representing the day of the week that you were born on …

A bronze Theravada Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Bronze Buddha
… and to turn to that Buddha for advice.

Ivory-Coloured Alabaster Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Ivory-Coloured Alabaster Buddha

Bodhi Leaves, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Bodhi Leaf
I took a phone-picture of the bodhi leaves for my grandson whose name is Bodhi; I then learned that this very tree was planted over a century ago as an off-shoot from the Indian tree under which the Buddha obtained enlightenment. (iPhone6)

Clay Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Clay Buddha
The courtyard housing the magnificent bodhi tree also houses some elegantly simple clay Buddhas.

Head shot: Bronze Tibetan Buddha, Golden Buddha in the courtyard, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Bronze Buddha or Bodhisattva

Golden Buddha in the courtyard, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Golden Buddha
In the courtyard, we find a golden Buddha, a white stupa, and green foliage.

Buddhas on the Steps, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lan

Buddhas on the Steps
The rows of Buddha statues on a stepped wall in Gangaramaya Temple are modelled after Borobudur, the 7th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple in Magelang Regency, Central Java, Indonesia.

Buddhas on the Steps, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas on the Steps

Buddhas on the Steps, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Stepped Buddhas

Bronze Shiva Nataraja statue, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Shiva Nataraja
The dancing Lord Shiva is stepping on a demon to stamp out evil and prepare the universe for creation.

Crowned marble Buddha, Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Marble Buddha
This beautiful Buddha in a Chinese-style crown always made me pause as I walked past Gangaramaya Temple.

Golden Buddha, Seema Malaka, Colombo Sri Lanka

Golden Buddha
Although Seema Malaka is actually a part of the Gangaramaya Temple complex, it is a short walk away.

Golden Buddhas in a row, Seema Malaka, Colombo Sri Lanka

Golden Buddhas
This temple is intended to be used for meditation and rest, rather than for worship …

Golden Buddhas in a row, Seema Malaka, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas in a Row
… and countless Buddhas are there to watch over you …

The backs of seated buddhas at Seema Malaka temple, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Buddhas over Beira Lake
… and to watch over the city from their vantage point in the lake. The original temple sank into the waters, so the current sanctuary was built in 1976.

Head shot: Stone Buddha, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Stone Buddha
This serene face was my favourite, …

Vishnu in a niche, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Vishnu
… but the more colourful Hindu Gods

Ganesha in a niche, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Ganesha
… drew more attention from locals.

Stone Buddha Feet, Seema Malaka, Colombo, Sri Lanka

At the Feet of the Buddha

Spiritually restored, it was time to find physical sustenance and explore some of the rest of the city.

Until next time,

Peace be with you.

 

Photos: 10November2018

Wooden signpost and bench at a head of the Ruta de las Agüeras, Cantabria, Spain

Ruta de las Agüeras
Walking trails criss-cross the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. Some of these ancient routes are the pathways of medieval saints; most connect old villages; and one we found even lead us through a landscape of magical Cantabrian characters.

There is something about a European woods that lends itself to cautionary tales of faeries and ogres. Away from the densely populated modern cities, there are still mountains where wolves might dwell, and winding forest paths that have been used for centuries by pilgrims, saints, and ordinary travellers.

In the days before telecommunications, this network of pathways was the only way of disseminating goods and information between towns. Today, the pathways are still used for recreation, and as a means of getting in touch with nature and with the past.

Although I’m getting older and lazier, I still love a walk in the wilds – especially through new terrain. That – and my New Year’s resolution to study a language – was what attracted me the Peak Me language school, located in Panes, in the north of Spain. When the world is not locked down by Covid-19, this school offers a “Walk-and-Talk” program of morning Spanish language classes and afternoon hikes or adventure activities with their partners at Canoe Adventure Trophy.

Unless you remember one of my previous posts from this area (see: Ruta Alevia), you’ve probably never heard of Panes, a tiny parish of 568 people in the Peñamellera Baja in Asturias. This delightful town is well situated within easy reach of the spectacular Picos de Europa mountains on one side and the stunning Atlantic coastline on the other. The local residents and businesses integrate with the language school, and cheerfully tolerate a small but steady stream of visitors with questionable Spanish skills. 

Some of our group had complained of aching joints after our mountain climb (see: Ruta Alevia) the day before, so our guide selected a gentle seven kilometre meander for our second day’s outing. After our morning’s intensive class, we travelled a short distance to the region next door – to Cantabria – where we started our walk from the charming village of Cicera. Following a section of the medieval road from La Hermida to the villages of Alto Peñarrubia, we came upon the very modest Hermitage of Santa Catalina, in use in the 17- and 1800s.

We then turned uphill onto Mount Hozarco, where the beautiful deciduous Atlantic forest of oaks, beeches, and chestnut, was populated with hideous creatures apparently common in Cantabrian folklore. From there, we turned back downhill towards the spectacular Hermida Gorge, following the Las Agueras –  a route that gets its name because the two ravines it links: the Navedo and the Cicera, have flowing water throughout the year.

Do join me!

Camino signposting, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Camino Signposting
Brick streets, stone buildings, and mountains lost in mist: Cicera is a traditional Cantabrian village. But, as a nod to modern times, that signboard has a QR Code!

Regional signposting, Cicera Cantabria Spain

More Signposting
In theory, it should be impossible to get lost! Still, I was happy not to be walking alone as the mists surrounded us and the rains threatened.

Iglesia del Carmen rooftop, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Rooftop in the Rain
Every Spanish town has a Catholic church: the clay-tiled roof of Iglesia del Carmen reaches up into the rainy sky.

Iglesia del Carmen, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Iglesia del Carmen
The old stone building is quite lovely, …

Cicera rooftops, Cantabria Spain

Cicera
… as is the pretty town below.

Sheep on a hillside, Cicera Cantabria Spain

Pastoral
Nothing says “countryside charm” like sheep on a wet hillside!

Rosehips, Cicera, Cantabria Spain

Rosehips

Explanatory sign, La Ermita de Santa Catalina, Cantabria Spain

Hermitage of Santa Catalina
I actually found this cracked and ageing information sign …

La Ermita de Santa Catalina, Cantabria Spain

La Ermita de Santa Catalina
… far more visually interesting than the 17th or 18th century shrine located here.

Walking group in front of a signpost, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Vivi and the Signpost
Although we were meant to be practicing our newly-learned Spanish, our guide Vivi took pity on us, …

Woman in front of a signpost, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Mythological Path of Mount Hozarco
… and explained, in English, about the magical Cantabrian characters who traditionally shared these woods with the local humans.

Ojáncana in the woods, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Ojáncana
The first figure we come across is Ojáncana, a scary creature with wild boar tusks, and dirty and matted hair. She comes out of her cave to eat lost children.

Arquetu in the woods, , Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Arquetu in the Woods
Arquetu is a grumpy old man who takes care of those who have lost everything: he lends money to people foolish enough to go broke, …

Arquetu in the woods, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

Arquetu and his Chest of Gold and Silver
… but he will reprimand them first, and curse them to eternal poverty if they do it a second time.

El Roblón, Mount Hozarco, Cantabria Spain

El Roblón
This was my favourite of the creatures: the more subtle sight of a beautiful trunk of an old oak with arms and legs made of ash branches – with a lost child trapped within it.

Hikers in the woods, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Walkers in the Woods
As we turn onto la Ruta de las Agüeras, we walk into a beautiful beech forest, …

Large mossy stump, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Stumps and Moss
… where it is cool and mossy, and soft underfoot.

White toadstool on the forest floor, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Fungus on the Forest Floor
Mushrooms and all kinds of fungi thrive on the damp forest floor: …

Devil

Los Dedos del Diablo
… the most distinctive of these is the devil’s fingers. Also called the octopus stinkhorn (clathrus archeri), it smells like putrid flesh at maturity.

Mossy tree trunk, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Nature’s Sculptures in the Woods
The natural trees here are as wonderful as those along the community-created Mythological Path.

Water falls, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Rushing Waters
As we drop down towards highway and the Deva River, a stream races down the hill beside the path.

Hermida Gorge, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

Walking into the Gorge
The steep limestone cliffs rise up on both sides of us and the creek below, as we get closer to the Hermida Gorge either side of the Deva River.

Signposts, La Ruta de Las Agüeras, Cantabria Spain

More Signposts
Our path takes us to the edge of the N-621 highway which runs the length of the Hermida Gorge, and where our transport will pick us up and take us back to Panes.

Text: Happy Walking!

I’m sure I learned a Spanish word or two – 

and I certainly enjoyed the walk.

Until next time –

Happy Walking!

 

Photos: 24September2019

Portrait: young Melpa woman in face paint and feathered headdress, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Ready for the Sing Sing
A young Kunai Group woman from the Western Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea is ready to perform with her tribal group.

Anyone familiar with the rugged, jungle-clad terrain and dearth of infrastructure across Papua New Guinea will be horrified by the news of the recent rise of Covid-19 cases in the country (e.g. Covid Cases Triple). The very remoteness of tribal territories that helped keep the epidemic at bay until now also complicates the delivery of health services.

With a population of just over 9 million people, the country is resource-rich with forestry, agriculture, fishery, and mineral products. Even so, 80 percent of the population is classed as rural, almost 40 percent are said to be living under the poverty line, and only about 13 percent have reliable access to electricity.

Even before the current crisis, the country faced major health issues arising from communicable diseases, malaria, tuberculosis, diarrhoeal diseases, acute respiratory disease and HIV, while concurrently struggling with a critical shortage of health professionals (e.g.: Global Health Workforce Alliance)

But this is only part of the story. Papua New Guinea is one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world. That rugged terrain allowed discrete regions to develop and maintain their own unique identities and languages. There are about 840 living languages in the country – most belonging to small, tribal communities with strong internal social cohesion and maintaining a traditional, self-sustainable lifestyle based on farming, hunting and gathering.

Although it is unlikely that there are any genuinely “uncontacted” tribes left in the country, much of the interior remains under-explored and the tribal groups are poorly understood. Before the coming of Australian gold prospectors in the 1930s, the Western Highlands were thought to be uninhabited, and the Hewa people of the Southern Highlands remained uncontacted until 1975.

While the tribes are strong within themselves, inter-tribal warfare is a real and ongoing problem, only made worse by the introduction of modern weapons (e.g.: Mistaking Massacre for Tradition; Spears to Semi-Automatics).

Sing sings, festivals of song, dance and culture, were originally intended to mitigate tribal warfare and to foster greater respect and harmony between neighbouring groups. These days, sing sings have become more focussed on attracting tourists. But, they still give tribes the opportunity to meet each other, to show off their customs, and to teach their youngsters the age-old traditions. 

One of the biggest annual sing sings is the Mount Hagen Cultural Show in the middle of the country. Running since the 1960s, it attracts around 100 tribal groups: many from the Western Highlands Province, some from neighbouring provinces, and even a few from Papua New Guinea’s surrounding islands. The groups compete for cash prizes which are awarded for traditional costumes and for performances.

Back in 2017, I attended the festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. The colour and noise were matched by the heat – and I loved every minute of it.

Do come along!

Portrait: Western Highlands man in partial face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Black and White
We arrive outside the show grounds nice and early, which allows me to chat with performers while they get ready (see also: Tribal Expressions and Women of the Western Highlands).

Two Western Highland men face painting, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highland Men Getting Ready
A lot of time and care goes into the face painting. Mirrors are at a premium.

Portrait: Western Highlands man in partial face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Unfinished Paint

Toddler in a grass skirt and face piant, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Baby in the Middle
Children embody the culture they grow up in; inside the festival grounds, even the youngest are included in the parades and performances.

Suli Muli dancers from Enga Province, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Suli Muli
The Suli Muli dancers from Enga Province are called that for the song they sing while banging their kundu drums and jumping up and down. Both men’s and women’s groups wear grass skirts and giant hats made of moss, plant fibres, or even hair.

Portrait: Enga woman, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Enga Woman
With a quarter-million speakers across the Enga Province, this is the largest native ethnic and linguistic group in the country (see: Big Hats and Small Drums).

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and red hat, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highland Man
The Western Highlands, which is where Mount Hagen and this annual festival are located, is one of the most culturally rich regions of the country. We can see similarities – …

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and multicoloured hat, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highland Men
… and differences – in the dance troupes’ costuming and face paint styles.

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and feathered hat, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

War Cries
Face paint was intended to intimidate enemies, and some tribal songs resemble war cries.

Western Highlands dance group in blue skirts and red chest shields, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kunai Group
Feathers are everywhere. Another common element across many of the Western Highland groups is the ritual moka kina, a necklace or pectoral ornament made from shell, ochre and resin, and symbolising wealth.

Fluorescent feathers in the headdresses of dancing Kunai women, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kunai Group – Women
In this tribe, the women’s costumes are completely different from their male counterparts.

Papuan men outside a mesh fence, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Outside the Fence
These days, the Mt Hagen Cultural Show is priced out of reach for many locals, …

Portrait: Papuan man behind a mesh fence, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Papuan Man
… and they have to content themselves with watching from outside.

Papuan women outside a mesh fence, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Papuan Women

Women of the Keps Goose Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Keps Goose Culture Group
Wearing their elaborate headdresses and heavy necklaces of shells and fur, the groups keep coming; …

Portrait: Western Highlands Woman, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highlands Woman
… each group with something different about their face paint (see: Women of the Western Highlands).

Portrait: Western Highlands man in feathers, shells and face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Western Highlands Man

Detail: back ornamentation of tusks and shells, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Tusks and Shells
Complex necklaces of precious shells and boars’ tusks symbolise wealth and power – and bang noisily when the men dance.

Kumipana Warrior Women Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kumipana Warrior Women Group
In a land with little electricity, it is no surprise that most of these groups have no digital footprint! Try as I might, I could find out nothing about this one.

Kumipana Warrior Girl, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kumipana Warrior Girl
This young woman has a lovely smile – making her much less frightening than she is supposed to be.

Kumipana boy with the skull of a small animal on his back, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Kumipana Skull Necklace
One of the boys has the skull of a small animal on his back as adornment.

Portrait: Two Western Highland Men in face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Red Black and Yellow
Paints used to be made from local plants and clay; today they are more likely to be store-bought.

Portrait: Woman from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

“Ekawest Culture Group”
That’s what their cardboard sign said, …

Portrait: Child from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Ekawest Youngster
… but I could find no trace on-line.

Portrait: Child from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Tomorrow’s Face
Papua New Guinea is a young country: life expectancy is 65.2, the media age is 22.4, and 35.5% of the population is under 15.

Portrait: Woman from the Ekawest Culture Group, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Betel Smile
I’m always distressed by the effects I see everywhere of chewing betel (Areca catechu).

Portrait: Mother and Child in face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Mother and Child

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint and bird headdress, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Bird Colours
I’m amazed that there are any birds left on the island, given the number of bird parts and feathers that go into the costumes, but headdresses are carefully looked after from one year to the next.

Pacific Island Dancers, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Pacific Island Dancers
As the afternoon wears on, the dancers break into party tunes.

Portrait: Western Highland Man in face paint, Mt Hagen Cultural Show, PNG

Alexander Pears
This is the face of the future: these young people take real pride in their culture and heritage.

Tribal remoteness and lack of contact with the outside world is a double-edge sword. The Papua New Guinea Constitution explicitly recognises the importance of “traditional villages and communities [remaining] as viable units of Papua New Guinean society”, but with a young and fast-growing population – underserved by health and education services – it is hard to know how they will bridge the gap between an agrarian tribal history and a resource-rich future.

To the Future (text)

In the short term, I hope they can weather the health crisis that seems to be upon them.

Until next time.

 

Pictures: 19August2017