Portrait: two Huli Wigmen and a woman in yellow face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Wigmen – and a Woman
The Huli are one of the most numerous tribes in Papua New Guinea. With their unique face painting and elaborate headdresses, they are also one of the most distinctive.

Papua New Guinea is fascinating!

Home to just over nine million people, at last estimate there were over 7000 different cultural groups with almost 850 distinct languages being spoken. The country is routinely touted as the most linguistically diverse place on the planet.

Of course, with the pressures of the modern world, and the double-edged sword that is ‘education’, the ability to speak Indigenous languages is declining precipitously in the younger generation. And, when language is lost, the finer understandings about aspects of one’s culture, traditional skills and crafts, and one’s place in the natural environment are also lost.

Papua New Guinea’s constitution declares the desire for traditional villages and communities to continue to function as viable units of society and efforts are made in the struggling education system to keep indigenous languages and culture alive.

Sing sings, gatherings of tribes or villages to show off their distinct culture, dance, and music, are a powerful means of passing on traditions to the younger generation. I was at the Mount Hagen Sing Sing Festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts. The array of distinctive tribal groups was mind boggling (see: Mount Hagen)!

With over 250,000 members at the 2011 census, the Huli people from Hela Province in the Southern Highlands are one of the largest ethnic groups – and certainly one of the most distinctive (see: Meet the Huli Wig Men). Unknown to Europeans until 1934, they are believed to have lived in their region for many thousands of years. Their reputations as fearless warriors has helped keep their cultural and linguistic traditions intact.

Traditionally, Huli men and women live separately, with strict gender divisions in roles and responsibilities. Children live with their mothers while young, and at seven or eight years old, boys are sent to live with their fathers. Around puberty, they enter enter bachelor school – or Wig School – where they to learn how to become men. At this time, they start growing their hair – using a combination of magic and a special diet – to be made into the fabulous wigs that they known for. Most Huli men cultivate more than one wig, with some designed for ceremonial uses and others for everyday wear. Each wig takes up to 18 months to grow and shape, and the young men are forbidden from any physical contact with women while they are undergoing this process. All a man’s wigs must be completed before he is allowed to marry.

Given the strict rules under which these wigs are created, I was surprised to find young women among the Huli sing sing group at Mount Hagen, albeit without the over-sized wigs under their feathered headdresses – and no amount of searching the internet shed any light on how this had come about.

Do join me in admiration of their wonderful face paint and ornate wigs!

Huli warrior in a wig and face paint, Paiya Village, PNG

Betel Stain and Bird Feathers
Even in soft feathers and a big smile – stained with the ubiquitous betel chew – Huli men are a fearsome sight.

Huli warrior in a ceremonial wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Ceremonial Winged Wig
Huli wigs are crafted into different shapes: ceremonial wigs sweep up like the wings of a bird. The cassowary quill through the nose is traditional decoration.

Huli Woman in a headdress and red and yellow face paint, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Woman
Although the women’s headdresses are as elaborate in their concoctions of bird-parts and feathers, they are built on a foundation of cuscus fur rather than human hair.

Huli Woman in a headdress and red and yellow face paint, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Woman in Face Paint
The bright yellow clay, called Ambua, is considered sacred in Huli culture. Red ochre adorns the whole body. Of course, for sing sing displays, these colours are just as likely to be store-bought.

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Flowers and Feathers
Everlasting flowers and bits of greenery can be included in the intricate wig decoration.

Huli Wigman

Wigman’s Hornbill
Huli men wear hornbill beaks flanked with boar’s tusks on their backs. The beaks symbolise strength and courage in battle.

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Warrior

Huli men in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Feathers Galore
I have said it before: given the number of parrot and bird of paradise feathers that go into sing sing costumes, it is a wonder any birds survive in the wild!

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

“Kerapia Boys”
A hand-written cardboard sign identified this group as the “Kerapia Boys”. I couldn’t find them on the map!

Huli man and young women in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

“Kerapia Boys Hela Wigmen”
The Kerapia Boys included at least two young women and several very young boys.

Huli men and women, Mount Hagen PNG

Family Portrait
Not everyone is a performer!

Huli Wigmen and women in a sing sing circle, Mount Hagen PNG

Kundu Drums
Each small locality has their own traditional chant and drum rhythm, …

Huli Wigmen and women in a sing sing circle, Mount Hagen PNG

Wigmen Drumming
… and the Mt Hagen show ground is a cacophony of sound, and movement, and colour.

Huli man and young women in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Women with the Wigmen

Huli men and a young woman in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Shell Necklaces and Feathers

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

A Clear, Strong Gaze
These are a strong people – and it is good to see them passing their culture on to their young children; …

Huli Boy in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Boy
… some of whom are still far too young for Wig School.

Culture is never static.

Including young women and boys in the expression of age-old traditions would seem to be a sign that Huli culture is moving forward.

To the Future (text)If the Huli can maintain important traditions while embracing the future and becoming more inclusive to the desires and competencies of different individuals within their community, I’m all for it!

Pictures: 18-20August2017

Metal silhouette sculptures of Australian soldiers, Fort Nepean, Mornington Peninsula Victoria

Soldiers at Fort Nepean
Port Phillip, in Greater Melbourne, was once the most heavily fortified port in the Southern Hemisphere. Here at Fort Nepean, Australian soldiers watched over the city until after World War II.

Point Nepean National Park is a special place with a long and visible history. It sits at the very edge of Melbourne, Victoria: the city wraps itself around Port Phillip, and from the southeast tip here at Point Nepean, you can almost throw a stone across the Victory Bight to the southwestern Melbourne suburb of Queenscliff.

For at least 6000 years, this has been part of the traditional country of the Bunurong People. A number of Aboriginal sites have been identified here, including coastal shell middens which might point to seasonal gathering-places for indigenous people – and certainly reflect their food-gathering practices.

I didn’t see any of these.

I did, however, see plenty of historic examples of European settlement in the region. There is scattered archeological evidence of pastoral and lime-burning practices dating to the 1830s. Shepherd Hut, which includes sections from 1845, is one of the earliest intact limestone building in Victoria and a rare example of employee housing.

The eponymous Quarantine Station was used from 1852 to 1979, and then became the home of an Army Officer Cadet School and the School of Army Health. Defensive structures dating from the 1880s through the 1940s are dotted around the park.

In more recent history, Australia lost Prime Minister Harold Holt here in December 1967. He went swimming at Cheviot Beach and was never seen again. Convention suggests he drowned; conspiracy theories speculate otherwise.

As well as being historically significant, the whole Port Nepean National Park area is a natural treasure. Although the wildlife isn’t as visible here as on Phillip Island – the peninsula just east of here (see: Sleepy Koalas and Moulting Penguins) – bandicoot and black wallaby live in these native bush lands. The park is criss-crossed with pleasant walks – and high enough to afford panoramic views in all directions. Only a one- to two-hour drive from the inner-city suburbs of Melbourne, these long-time Commonwealth and Defence lands were returned to the Victorian State Government after years of protracted political disputes and arguments about costs, including debates over who would pay for the clearance of unexploded ordnance.

Today, the Victorian Heritage Department says that “Point Nepean Defence and Quarantine Precinct is of archaeological, aesthetic, architectural, historical, scientific and social significance to the State of Victoria.”

It is well worth exploring.

Coles Track to Fort Nepean, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Sandy Track
From the carpark at the Gunners Cottage – built in the early 1900s – it is easy to pick up Coles Track towards Fort Nepean.

Myrtle-leaf Milkwort, Coles Track, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Myrtle-leaf Milkwort (Polygala Myrtifolia)
Native to South Africa, milkworts thrive in these sandy coastal soils.

Myrtle-leaf Milkwort, Coles Track, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Myrtle-leaf Milkwort Flower
As pretty as it is, the milkwort is listed by government agencies as an invasive weed.

Coles Track to Fort Nepean, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Through the Moonah Woodland
Coles Track was expanded to service a telephone wire to the Fort as part of Melbourne’s defence system during World War II. A number of German and Japanese destroyers, submarines, and other military craft, operated in Australian waters between 1940 and 1945, threatening the shipping industry and the war effort.

View south over the Point Nepean, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Over the Peninsula
Water is visible on both sides: on the south we can see Bass Straight across the melaleuca trees.

View of the rocks off Cheviot Beach, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Cheviot Beach
These are wild waters. The beach is named for Victoria’s worst shipwreck, the SS Cheviot, which hit a reef in 1887, resulting in 35 of the 59 passengers drowning.

Plaque to Prime Minister Harold Holt on Cheviot Hill, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Plaque : Cheviot Hill
Australia’s Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared while swimming in these rough waters in 1967.

View of the rocks off Cheviot Beach, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Surf off Cheviot Beach

Container ship on Bass Strait, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Container Ship
Bass Strait is a busy shipping lane.

View of the rocks off Cheviot Beach, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

View from Cheviot Hill

Walkers on Defence Road, Point Nepean National Park, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

On Defence Road
No private vehicles are allowed this far into the National Park, but a periodic shuttle runs up and down for those who don’t want to join the walkers.

Barred window inside Fort Pearce, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Inside Fort Pearce
Tunnelled into the hillside, Fort Pearce was established in 1911.

Barred window inside Fort Pearce, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Underground
Part of Port Phillip’s defence system, the gun emplacements, underground ammunition storage, and tunnels at Fort Pearce were abandoned at the war’s end in 1945. Nature reclaimed them, and volunteers later spent years removing the sand and vegetation.

View over the coast from Fort Pearce Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Lookout below the Fort

World War I gun emplacement, Fort Pearce, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

World War I Gun Emplacement
The gun pits for the Mk VII guns were built in 1911. The munitions magazine is between the pits.

View over the coast from Fort Pearce Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

From Fort Pearce
The fort affords wonderful views back over the dramatic cliffs.

Sea fog over Port Phillip Bay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Port Phillip Bay
In the other direction, afternoon sea fog hangs over Greater Melbourne.

Landscape looking back over Point Nepean, Victoria Australia

Looking back over Point Nepean
From Fort Nepean, you can look back over the National Park and Port Phillip Bay.

Waters on the shore of Nepean Bay from Fort Nepean, Victoria Australia

Nepean Bay Beach
These are reasonably sheltered waters, popular for swimming – but has to be wary of the strong currents and rips.

A Post in Nepean Bay, from Fort Nepean, Victoria Australia

A Post in Nepean Bay
The colours and textures in the protected waters are stunning.

Ground-cover succulent with yellow flowers at Point Nepean, Victoria Australia

Yellow-Flowered Succulent
My walk back towards Eagle’s Nest takes me through beautiful vegetation …

Hideaway on a sandy pathway, Point Nepean National Park, Victoria Australia

Hideaway on the Cliffs
… and along sandy paths. The hill at Eagle’s Nest is now home to a large radar tower – but was once the site of Australia’s largest disappearing gun: built in 1889.

Quarantine Station, Point Nepean National Park, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

On the Windy Cliffs
My last stop in the National Park was at the Quarantine Station, established in 1852 – in what was then a very remote location – to house new arrivals to Australia and protect the country from introduced diseases. It was the first permanent quarantine base in Victoria and one of the earliest and most substantial in Australia. (What a shame we don’t have something like this today!)

Quarantine Station, Point Nepean National Park, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

The Quarantine Station
The station was closed for quarantine purposes in 1980, but you can still wander around the nearly-50 heritage-listed buildings.

Although I only walked about eight kilometres, with the hills there was more altitude-gain than I am currently used to!

Text: Happy Walking!

Fortunately, the charming Melbourne suburb of Portsea, right next door to the park, was once again open for cautious business after a three-week Covid-19 lockdown.

The only thing better than a history-rich hike is the coffee you reward yourself with afterwards.

Happy Walking!

Pictures: 19June2021

Apples growing in an orchard with Lake Zurich behind, Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland.

Apples in an Orchard
With Lake Zurich in the background, the orchards around the Bächlihof Farm at Jona are a perfect spot for a Swiss National Day breakfast. (iPhone5)

August 1st is Swiss National Day, and thanks to William Tell, Switzerland’s independence will always be associated with apples.

Who doesn’t know the story of that legendary Swiss hero? That mountain man, that peasant from Bürglen in the canton of Uri, who resisted the commands of a tyrannical overlord, and was then forced to shoot an apple from the head of his son. By shooting straight and true with his crossbow, he succeeded – and became a symbol of the struggle for political and individual freedom against autocracy. In some stories, he used a second arrow to kill the tyrant – sometimes named as Baron Gessler.

What a pity it never happened!

The events are said to have occurred on 18 November 1307 in Altdorf (German for ‘old village’). The first fleeting reference to William Tell is in a 1470 manuscript, and in 1550, historian Aegidius Tschudi elaborates on the tale and credits it as the start of the fight for Swiss independence.
But, representatives of the three forest cantons of Schwyz, Altdorf and Uri actually signed the original Oath of Rütli at the beginning of August in 1291 (see: In Search of William Tell). Resisting the rule of the House of Habsburg (Hapsburg), the fiercely independent people who had settled in these narrow Alpine valleys managed to cooperate among themselves and build the foundations of the Swiss Confederation (see: Swiss National Day).

Meanwhile, the apple story has appeared in the folklore of a number of nations, and a remarkably similar story to the William Tell tale was told in Denmark in the 12th century. But, don’t argue about that with a Swiss! Although Tell might have not been an actual person, his persona is central to Swiss identity. To this day, the Swiss pride themselves as people who value their independence and are prepared to stand against oppression.

Some years ago, we were staying with friends in Rapperswil-Jona on Lake Zurich (see: Lake Zurich) when Swiss National Day rolled around. It was, of course, a Public Holiday, and an ‘adventure farm’ nearby was putting on a breakfast in honour of the day. So, we started our day surrounded by orchards of apples and other fruits, and sampling the glorious pastries made from them.

Then, like any good Swiss, we went for a walk. We meandered pleasantly past typical low-country villages, medieval churches and ancient pilgrim pathways. In the charming harbour of Rapperswil-Jona, we boarded a boat, and motored two hours across Lake Zurich, to the city of Zurich itself. There, we lunched at a popular traditional Swiss restaurant in the Old Town and wandered the ancient streets before returning home by train.

Everything seems so delightfully close and easy to get to in Europe!

Red apples in neat rows, Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland.

Apple Orchard
Safe under the bird-netting at the Bächlihof Farm, row after row of apples are trained up poles.

A clump of Nashi pears growing on Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland

Nashi Pears (Pyrus Pyrifolia)
Apples are not the only fruit trees growing on these extensive grounds.

A clump of Damson plums growing on Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland.

Damson Plums (Pyrus Pyrifolia)
I love the colour of these beautiful plums. They are made into Slivovitz (plum brandy) all over Europe.

Apples growing in an orchard, Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland.

Apples
There are several apple types growing here: they all look delicious.

Pears growing in an orchard, Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland.

Pears

Wooden

Schopf
The wooden function buildings at the Bächlihof Swiss Farmhouse are quite elegant in their simplicity.

Swiss cakes and pastries, Bächlihof Farm, Jona Switzerland.

Cakes and Pastries
Inside Heugade, some of that fruit has been baked into wonderful pastries that are part of our National Day buffet breakfast.

A girl with a pony on a path through the green, Jona Switzerland.

A Girl and a Pony
We might be only 40km from Zurich, but the walkways around Lake Zurich have a very rural/small-town feel.

House in a field, Busskirch, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

House in a Field
Busskirch is a small but historic village on the northern shore of the lake, within the local municipality of Rapperswil-Jona.

St. Martin church on the green, Busskirch, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

St. Martin Busskirch
The early medieval parish church of St. Martin is popular for weddings because of its pastoral charm and idyllic location on the lake.

Statue of Joseph, entry to St. Martin Busskirch, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

St. Joseph
The largest religious group in Switzerland is Roman Catholic, and St. Martin Busskirch is one of the oldest churches here.

Tidy graveyard, St. Martin Busskirch, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Tidy Graveyard
The small Busskirch cemetery rests over the remains of a 1st to 4th century Roman building. Swiss graveyards are strictly controlled and immaculately maintained. To deal with lack of space, burial plots are on a 25-year lease. After that time, plots are emptied and readied for the next burial.

Pink Japanese Anemone, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Pink Japanese Anemone (Anemone Hupehensis)
I associate Switzerland with flowers: hedges, window boxes and garden beds – everywhere.

Swan and cygnets, Lake Zurich, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Family Outing
A family of mute swans (Cygnus olor) wander through grass along the lake’s edge.

Sculpture in the garden, Fachhochschule Ostschweiz Campus Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Sculpture in the Garden
Our lake-side walk takes us past the University of Applied Sciences Rapperswil Campus (Fachhochschule Ostschweiz Campus RJ), where some beautiful, large sculptures rise out of the gardens of grass and sunflowers.

Rusty sculpture outside Fachhochschule Ostschweiz Campus Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Rusty Curves
I love the texture of the rusty metal, and the luscious curved lines.

Holzbrücke Rapperswil-Hurden wooden pedestrian bridge, Switzerland.

Holzbrücke Rapperswil-Hurden
This is the narrowest spot on the lake, and two bridges cross from here. This wooden pedestrian bridge between the Rapperswil and the village of Hurden stands in the place of bridges dating back to time immemorial. Prehistoric timber piles discovered on the other side of the lake date back to 1523 BC.

Water around the pylons under the Seedamm, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Under the Bridge
The other lake crossing here is more modern in conception: the Seedamm, is part bridge and part artificial causeway.

Port waterfront, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Waterfront
We, however, are crossing the lake the long way: by boat. On the harbour, we get a lovely view of the ships in the port, the beautiful old buildings dating back to the 1200s, and the castle at the top of the hill that we walked around on another day (see: The Roses of Rapperswil).

Historic Rapperswil waterfront buildings from Lake Zurich, Switzerland.

Rapperswil Waterfront
On the water, we get a whole different view of that wonderful medieval architecture that gives the little city its character. Hotel Schwanen is in a building dating to 1233. The Curti House to the left, dates back to the 16th century, with mosaics and paintings added in 1894.

Tourist boat on Lake Zurich, Switzerland.

Tourist Boats on Lake Zurich
We are not the only boat on the lake.

Cottage on Lake Zurich from the water, Switzerland.

Cottage on Lake Zurich
Our boat makes a short stop on the opposite side of the lake …

Woman on the waterfront, from the water, Switzerland.

Woman on the Waterfront
… and passes a number of other piers …

Into the Limmat River, Zurich, Switzerland.

Limmat River
… before cruising into the river outfall at the southern part of the city of Zurich.

Limmat River Waterfront, Zurich Switzerland.

Limmat River and the Waterfront
The church clock of St. Peter is the largest tower clock face in Europe, with bells dating to 1880. Consecrated in 1706, St. Peter was the first church in Zurich built under Protestant rule.

the Hans Waldmann statue with The Grossmünster behind, Zurich Switzerland

The Grossmünster and the Hans Waldmann Statue
Die Altstadt (“the old town”) of Zürich dates before 1893, and every brick has a story to tell. Foreground here is the 1937 equestrian monument to Hans Waldmann (1435 – 1489). He was a Swiss military leader and mayor of Zurich. In the background, we see the Romanesque-style Grossmünster, a Protestant church built between 1100 and 1220.

Dolce&Gabbana bags, shopfront, Zurich Switzerland.

Dolce&Gabbana
The historic city houses some very up-market shops!

Locks on a bridge over the Limmat, Zurich Switzerland.

Freunde für Immer – Friends Forever
All over Europe, bridges strain under the weight of locks put in place by friends and lovers.

‘Guardian Angel’
In the Zurich railway station, a piece by French-American sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle watches over us.

Text: Happy RamblingBack on the balcony at the home of our hosts in Rapperswil-Jona, nature treated us to a late afternoon rainbow over the lake, and the municipality treated us to fire works after dark.

A full – and very SwissNational Day indeed!

Pictures: 01August2014

Portrait: young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Hindu Priest Making Offerings
Time and space have a different meaning on the banks of the river named for the Sacred Mother Ganga. Every nook and cranny along the ghats of Varanasi houses a priest or acolyte or religious ascetic, engaged in meditation or study or constructing ritual offerings.

I was already in love with India when I made my first visit to Varanasi. That magical northern city exceeded my already-high expectations and left an indelible impression.

The spiritual capital of India, Varanasi (Benares, Banaras, Kashi), sits on the left bank of the Ganga (Ganges) in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh. Dating back to the 11th century B.C, it is one of the seven sacred Hindu cities. We first arrived at the ghats, the stairs leading down to Ganges, in the dry heat of the afternoon. The air seemed to vibrate with electricity, and in this holiest part of the holiest of cities, it was easy to believe that this energy can infuse you with its special magic.

Varanasi presents a unique combination of physical, metaphysical and supernatural elements. According to the Hindu mythology, Varanasi liberates soul from human body to the ultimate…. a dip in the holy Ganges …is believed to absolve one from all sins.

Certainly, the Varanasi ghats attract a range of people – most with lifestyles very different from my own. I found myself slowing down and musing about the nature of human existence and endeavour. As I watched people engaging in their spiritual practices, I had a visceral understanding of how different our perspectives on the world, and our place in it, really can be.

It was a long time ago now. If there is an up-side to our Covid-closed borders and seemingly endless lock-downs, it is the time to revisit old photos and relive memories.

Of course, as I’ve said before, going back to old photos is always risky! I’ve reprocessed these, as when I took them I was not using Lightroom. They were taken on an old camera that was always a bit ‘soft’ on focus, and some of my settings were questionable. But, I hope they convey something of the pulsating heat, and the magical spirit of the place.

Revisiting them certainly put a smile on my face.

Golden grain fields in Uttar Pradesh, India.

North Indian Fields
As we ride the rails southeast from Delhi to Varanasi across the fertile Indus-Gangetic Plain, I’m reminded of how much space there still is in the second-most populous country in the world.

Harvested grain in Uttar Pradesh, India.

Grain Stacks
Indian agriculture is labour-intensive, employing over 40% of the country’s workforce.

Schoolgirls in uniform, Varanasi, India.

Schoolgirls
By contrast to the open countryside, the streets of Varanasi are narrow and full of daily life, …

Buildings on the ghats, Varanasi, India.

On the Ghats
… and the buildings on the ghats stretch off shoulder-to-shoulder into the hazy distance.

Boats on the Assi Ghat, Varanasi, India.

Boats on Assi Ghat
The ghats are haphazard, and dirty – and quite magical. Going from south to north, Assi Ghat is the first of the 88 or more.

People in a row boat on the Ganges, Varanasi, India.

Boats on the Ganges
The heat and the smells envelope me as I watch life unfold.

Three wooden rowboats on the Ganges, Varanasi, India.

Three Boats on the Ganges

Ganga Mahal from the ghat, Varanasi, India.

Gangamahal Ghat
The unique old buildings add to the feeling of timelessness. The Ganga Mahal (palace) was built in 1830 CE by the Narayan dynasty.

Man in seated in a niche, Tulsi Ghat, Varanasi, India.

Man in a Niche : Tulsi Ghat
Every niche houses a mystic …

Orange shrine, Varanasi Ghats, India.

God in a Niche
… or a sacred shrine.

Young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Priest Making Offerings
A bit further along, I came upon a young Hindu priest constructing the complex offerings to the Mother. We silently acknowledged each other, and he went back to his work as I watched and photographed.

The hand of a Hindu Priest placing incense, Varanasi ghats, India

Burning Incense

Young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Flowers and Smoke
The offerings contain a number of elements – which were later explained to me by a lovely young woman in Haridwar (see: Street Scenes and Portraits).

Hindu prayer book behind a seated priest, Varanasi ghats, India

Hindu Prayer Book

Young Hindu Priest making offerings to the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Hindu Priest
The process continued, and the candle and incense burned. The kumbh (copper pot) sits ready with sacred water from the filthy river.

Pilgrims walking on the Varanasi ghats, India

Pilgrims on the Ghats
Everywhere I look, there are pilgrims and sadhus with their swags; who knows how far across India they have travelled to be here.

Vaccharaja Ghat buildings, Varanasi, India

Candy Colours on Vaccharaja Ghat

Boy on a bicycle, Varanasi ghats, India

Everyday Life

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Boats tied Up
All along the cluttered waterfront, dilapidated wooden boats wait for work.

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Pastel Paint
I am captivated by the colours …

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Rough Wood
… and the textures.

Buffalo on the Varanasi ghats, India.

Buffalo on the Ghat
Buffalo wander freely …

Cows and boats on the Varanasi ghats, India.

Cows on the Ghats
… and cows sit contentedly at the water’s edge.

Buffalo in the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India.

Buffalo in the Ganges
This stretch of river near the cremation ghats is full of buffalo escaping the heat, …

Boy jumping into the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India.

Boys Splashing in the Ganges
… and the local children join them.

Man bathing on the , Varanasi ghats, India.

Ablutions
To bathe in the Ganges is to wash away your sins – making it an attractive proposition in spite of the unholy pollution of the water.

Clay cups of water and milk, Varanasi, India.

Clay Cups
This was the trip that I learned how wonderful masala chai – made with buffalo milk – truly is. Like the milk and water in this picture, it is served up in little single-use clay cups: when you finish, you smash your container on the ground.

Dog on the steps, Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Dog on the Ghats
They told me that the masala chai here at Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat was the best: I can’t disagree!

Shiva shrine, Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Shiva Shrine
I sat in the shade with my spiced tea, marvelling at the confusion of the colours …

Portrait: Indian Woman in a red ghoonghat, Varanasi ghats, India.

Indian Woman in Red
… and the welcoming warmth of the smiles.

Portrait: solemn Indian girl, Varanasi ghats.

The Chai Wallah’s Daughter
Education is compulsory and free in India for children aged 6 to 14, but opportunities are still limited, depending on the class you are born into.

Revitalised by my rich tea, I continued my explorations (watch this space!).

Given the opportunity, I would go back in a shot. Magic. Just magic. People say that there is something in the air in Varanasi. Certainly, my impressions of the city have never left me.

Until next time,

‘Let it be so.’

Photos: 09April2010

  • […] I was captivated: the dry heat was uplifting, the air was electric, and the people were both fascinating and welcoming (see: Life on the Ghats). […]ReplyCancel

  • Graham - June 5, 2024 - 1:14 pm

    I arrive in Varanasi on October 9
    I can’t wait to experience meeting a Hindu priest this will fulfil my life I have 5 weeks to see and pray 🙏ReplyCancel

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
Could a wildflower be more elegant? The Sierra lily, also known by the common name Kelley’s lily, grows up to two meters tall in the wetlands of the High Sierra.

There is a special magic about alpine flowers in their natural habitats!

They are ruggedly unique, suited to their particular alpine environments, and yet delicate in their beauty. Whether it is in the Swiss Alps (see: Rainy Alpine Hillsides) or the Snowy Mountains of Australia (eg: Alpine Flowers and Summer Snow), there is something uplifting about fields and meadows of seasonal wildflowers.

So, I was thrilled when a friend of mine wanted to organise a week or two of wildflower photo-walks near her homes in the Eastern Sierras while I happened to be in North America. When the time came, our other intended photography-companions ended up elsewhere, so it was just the two of us following the hiking trails and seeking out the sights of Mono and Madera Counties, high in the mountains of California (see: Waters and Wildflowers).

Of course, you can never predict the best time for wildflowers, as they depend on the elevation, the depth of the winter snows and length of the winter season, and the timing and generosity of the spring showers. Still, California’s tourism trades on “blooms” and advertises the flowers of Mono County as arriving late May, hitting their peak late in June, and lasting through July. Hedging our bets, we’d planned my trip for mid-July, and the flowers did not disappoint.

We were based in the town of Mammoth Lakes, and had spent the morning hiking and photographing in the Devils Postpiles National Monument (see: Devils Postpiles and Rainbow Falls). From there, it was a short drive to the Red’s Meadow Area of Inyo National Forest. This is access point for the Agnew Wildflower Loop, an easy one kilometre (0.6 m) loop through lush, upper-montane grasses, and a variety of wildflowers.

When I’d had my fill of lilies in the Agnew Meadow, we drove the twenty minutes across to the base of the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, and took the gondola up the hill to see what was blooming there.

Agnew Meadow is at 2316 m (7600 ft) elevation; the base of Mammoth Mountain is 2743 m (9000 ft), and the top of the Panorama Gondola is 3369 m (11,053 ft). Naturally, flowers growing so high above the tree line are going to be compact and low to the ground, and therefore less ‘showy’ than the Sierra lilies on the Agnew Wildflower Loop. I loved them anyway – but was disappointed not to be able to get names for most of them!

Join me for some summer blooms in the Eastern Sierras:

Signboard: Agnes Meadows Wildflower Walk, Inyo National Forest California USA

Agnes Meadows Wildflower Walk
This area is known for larkspur, lupine, lilies, columbine, and Indian paintbrush – some of which we didn’t see.

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
To my mind, the beautiful blooms of the Kelley’s lilies more than made up for any missing flowers in the mix!

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

A Single Bloom
The large, bell-shaped, yellow to orange flower has six long stamens hoping to attract swallowtail butterflies for pollination.

Sierra lily blooms, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

An Inflorescence
Each lily stem can produce up to 25 golden flowers.

Swamp Onion in bloom, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Swamp Onion (Allium Validum)
The common swamp onion – also known as wild onion, Pacific onion, and Pacific mountain onion – is native to the west coast mountains of North America.

Common yarrow in Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Common Yarrow – Achillea Millefolium
A member of the aster family, the tall, white yarrow has a long blooming season.

Purple Monkshood, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Monkshood – Aconitum Columbianum
I had trouble distinguishing the monkshood from the larkspur and lupine, but – based on the leaves – I’m pretty sure I’m right about this one.

Golden Buttercups, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Golden Buttercups – Ranunculus Occidentalis

Yosemite Onion, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

Yosemite Onion – Allium Yosemitense
Or another swamp onion? I’m going by the colour, but to my eye, it could be either – or something else entirely!

California corn lily, Agnew Meadow, Inyo National Forest California USA

So Pretty – So Poisonous!
The California corn lily or California false hellebore (Veratrum californicum) is a tall, pretty, and extremely poisonous plant native to these hight mountain meadows.

The mountains of Inyo National Forest California USA

Over the Mountains
As we drive out of the meadow and back to Mammoth for lunch before ascending the mountain, we get views over the rocky crags and pine forests.

A Panorama Gondola car, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Panorama Gondola
The cable car up Mammoth Mountain takes us from 2743 m (9000 ft) to 3369 m (11,053 ft).

Empty ski chairs, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Summer Ski Slopes
The ride up the hill affords some great views …

View through the top gondola station, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Through the Gondola Station
… before landing us at the top station.

Gondolas, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Gondolas on the Mountain
The mountain rises high above the township below, …

Patch of snow, summer, Mammoth Mountain California USA

Summer Snow
… and the views extend in all directions.

Dirtbike riders at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Dirt Bike Riders on the Slope
Like many other ski resorts, Mammoth Mountain has gone to some lengths to attract summer visitors.

Low rise alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Low Rise Alpine Flowers
I loved the fuzzy, curling leaves on these little yellow flowers. I think they are one of the many hymenoxys genus, but I can’t find an exact match.

Tiny yellow and red succulents at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny Succulents
In this high and arid environment, plants need to be low and compact to survive.

Lakes Basin from the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Lakes Basin from the Mountain

Low rise alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Sunny Yellow Flowers
Another lovely yellow flower; probably another hymenoxys.

Purple flowers in the gravel at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Purple Flowers in the Gravel
This tiny little flower reminds me of the monkeyflower group – but again I could find no match on line.

Small round yellow flower at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny Flowers Standing Tall

Tiny white alpine flowers at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Tiny White Alpine Flowers
I think these pretty little flowers are ‘Moonbeams’ (Clematis x cartmanii).

Three cyclists at the top of Mammoth Mountain California USA

Cycles at the Top of Mammoth

Mammoth statue, Mammoth Lakes, California, USA

Mammoth Sculpture
After descending Mammoth Mountain, we pause to admire the giant mammoth statue outside the Visitors’ Center.

Fresh air, alpine walks and wildflowers –

Who could ask for more?

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 17July2013