Portrait: Kara youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Kara Youngster : Dus Village
The Kara are a beautiful people. and photographing them with the benefits of a black cloth and an off-camera flash is a real joy.

The Lower Omo Valley in south west Ethiopia is a photographer’s dream. It might be off the beaten track and hard to get to, but it is home to 16+ ethnic groups, each with their own distinctive customs, dress, and body art, so once you are there, you are spoiled for choice of subjects.

The tribal people in this region have learned that their tourism ‘value’ is in their appearance, and they generally charge visitors ‘per click’ for pictures made of them. While this is entirely fair, it removes the opportunity to make truly environmental pictures: the people in these remote villages are acutely aware of the camera, and will ‘pose’ at every opportunity.

So, if they are going to pose anyway, why not make use of the black cloths and off-camera flashes that someone has transported into the middle of the jungle!

I was comfortably lodged in the heart of Kara tribal territory on the south bank of the Omo River, at a mobile camp organised by Grand Holidays Ethiopia. The campsite was close to Dus Village, the largest of three Kara villages in Ethiopia: a half-day’s drive from power, running water, and the market town of Turmi. I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour, and he and some of the other participants had brought flash units with them.

Our location gave us exceptional access to the village, and we visited a number of times, at all times of day (see: Kara Village). The Kara are known for their beautiful body- and face-paint, which they apply to each other for fun, decoration, and artistic expression – even if there are no photographers around, and even when there is no special occasion to celebrate.

Join me for some flash – and some environmental – portraits of these beautiful people.

Portrait: Kara youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Youngster in Face Paint
The Kara people love their beads and face paint.

Portrait: Smiling Kara Youngster against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Smiling Kara Youngster
With no common language, and the Kara’s serious attitudes about photography, it was hard to get a relaxed pose – so I was very happy with this gorgeous smile.

Young Kara woman being face-painted, Dus Village Ethiopia

Painting Guinea Fowl
Outside our makeshift studio, young women are helping each other get ready. Guinea-fowl spots are one of the most popular design elements.

Portrait: Kara woman in cowrie shell, beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Cowrie Shells and Beads
Kara women love their beads. Like their Hamar cousins, they wear goatskin smocks, trimmed with cowrie shells.

Portrait: Kara woman in cowrie shell, beads and face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Face Paint and Ochre
They take pride in their face paint, and – also like the Hamar – they dress their hair in an ochre and fat paste.

Portrait: Kara man against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Man
There is a simple elegance in these people’s faces.

Portrait: Kara man against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Man in Hands
The face-and-body paint styles take a variety of forms. Hand prints are a popular body-paint motif. I love that clear, direct gaze.

Portrait: Old Kara man in a feathered cap and clay face paint, Dus Village Ethiopia

Old Kara Man
The feathered clay cap this man is wearing is proof that he has made a kill in the past year or two: either of an enemy, or of a dangerous animal.

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Woman in a Beaded Headdress

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

Beads and Spots

Portrait: Kara woman against black, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Sideways Glance

Portrait: Kara mother and toddler, Dus Village Ethiopia

Mother and Toddler
Back outside in the village, people pose in front of their woven grass houses.

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

The Soccer Match
On a flat patch of dusty ground, …

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Jump Shot
… a group of young men in bare feet or flip-flops …

Kara youths playing soccer, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Ball Skills
… chase an under-inflated soccer ball.

Kara youths playing ball, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Playing Ball
I can’t figure out the rules – if there are any – of the game they are playing, …

Kara youths playing ball, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Eyes on the Ball
… but there is no mistaking their skill and enthusiasm.

Kara women and toddlers in a group, face painting, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Face Painting
The afternoon draws on and people continue to gather in clusters to apply face paint.

Kara women and toddler, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Mother in Corn Rows
All around the village, young mothers …

Kara women and toddler, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Mother in Traditional Dress
… are happy to show off their children.

Portrait: Three young Kara men, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Young Kara Men

Kara girls in face paint, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Girls and their Instas
As the light started falling, I pulled out my Fujifilm Instax camera and – once they realised what was happening – the young women clamoured to get their own instant pictures to keep. They are so used to having their pictures ‘taken’; having them given back to them was a nice change!

I lost all my new ‘best friends’ as soon as I ran out of Instax film!

Text: Keep smilingBut, it was time to move on anyway: the young men were about to bring home the goats.

More on that later. Until then,

Keep Smiling!

Pictures: 21October2018

Basalt bricks in front of the Devils Postpile, California USA

Devils Postpile National Monument 
The regular-shaped basalt bricks tumbled all over the ground at the Devils Postpile are as impressive as the 18 metre (60 foot) ridge of columnar basalt behind them.

California’s Eastern Sierra region is a remote and vast wilderness, lightly populated and replete with extensive rugged and magnificent terrain. Sitting in the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada, the mountains here rise steeply from the prairies and deserts to the east.

The largest industry in the Eastern Sierra is tourism: based in tiny localities and small cities, and focused on getting people into the extensive national parks, national forests, state parks, and protected wilderness areas. You could get lost for days and weeks on the back-country hiking paths and trails.

Fortunately for me, you can access some pretty uniques and remarkable places with short walks as well!

I was staying with a fellow-photography-enthusiast at her home in Mammoth Lakes, in Mono County California (see: Waters and Wildflowers). Well known as a winter skiing base, the town also provides easy access to nearby summer trails.

It was a short, early-morning drive to next-door Madera County and the Devils Postpile parking lot. From there, it’s a delightful walk into the expansive Inyo National Forest, the fabled Ansel Adams Wilderness, and the Devils Postpile National Monument. Our 8.5 km (5.3 m) part-circuit and part out-and-back walk took us to the magnificent formation of basalt columns known as the Devils Postpile (How I wished for an apostrophe and a hyphen, but that is American English for you!), leading us along a short section of  the John Muir Trail/Pacific Crest Trail before we branched off towards the very pretty Rainbow Falls

The Devils Postpile sits at 2286 m (7500 ft), which is higher than mainland Australia’s highest mountain, so the extra 230 m (758 ft) gain and loss of elevation on our walk slowed me down … as did the scenery along the way.

Join me for a walk in the High Sierras.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

Devils Postpile
It’s a short walk from the carpark to the lofty, 18 m (60 ft) columns of strikingly symmetrical basalt rising above us. The Postpile faces west, and we hadn’t checked the Photographer’s Ephemeris, so of course, the sun was in our eyes and the rocks were bathed in shadow.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

At the Base of the Devils Postpile
According to radiometric dating, the formation was created by a lava flow just under 100,000 years ago. It is thought that the lava that makes up the Postpile was at the bottom of the mass, allowing it to cool slowly and evenly, which gives rise to the long symmetrical columns.

Devils Postpile, early morning, California USA

Trees on the Postpile
Basalt columns are a common feature resulting from volcanos, but this is considered one of the world’s finest examples due to its hexagonal regularity and lack of horizontal joining.

Fireweed in a tangle of undergrowth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fireweed (Chamaenerion Angustifolium)
When we leave the Postpile cliff behind, we follow the path through a tangle of undergrowth and flowers …

Jagged fallen tree trunk, Devils Postpile, California USA

Nature’s Sculpture
… and artfully sculpted fallen timbers.

Dried pine needles against a blue sky, Devils Postpile, California USA

Dried Bits against the Sky
This is an arid – and often fire-ravaged – region. Drought and the consequent rise of mountain pine beetles have also taken their toll.

Hikers in the woods, Devils Postpile, California USA

Walkers in the Woods
These are conifer forests of tall pine and fir trees.

Burned logs, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Burned Logs
The 1992 Rainbow Fire here in the Inyo National Forest was started by a lightening strike, and burned out 8000 acres of forest.

Charred tree and new growth, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Rainbow Fire Totem
Charred trees still stand as markers amid the new growth. In areas of ‘high severity fire’ the regrowth has been sparse and limited to certain species.

Detail: burned tree trunk, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Like a Burned Totem
The charred timber of this standing tree trunk is like an elaborate sculpture.

Signpost entry to Ansel Adams Wilderness, California USA

Ansel Adams Country
Photography enthusiasts know the name Ansel Adams: American landscape photographer and environmentalist. This 93,698 ha (231,533 acre) wilderness area was named for him after his death in 1984. It spans the Inyo National Forest, the Sierra National Forest, and includes nearly all of Devils Postpile National Monument.

New growth and old damage on a hill, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fledgeling Pine
Conifers are slow-growing, so damage takes a long time to regenerate.

New growth and old damage on a hill, Inyo National Forest, Devils Postpile, California USA

Old Damage
Burned out, blown down, and/or rotting tree trunks provide animal homes and ground nutrients.

Fireweed in a tangle of undergrowth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Fireweed (Chamaenerion Angustifolium)

Middle Fork San Joaquin River, Inyo National Forest, California USA

In the Inyo National Forest
The name Inyo comes from a Native American word meaning “dwelling place of the great spirit.” As we walk along the Middle Fork San Joaquin River, I can easily imagine spirits living here.

View over the top of Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Top of Rainbow Falls
After a 4 km (2.5 mi) walk, we reach the top of these very pretty 30 m (101 ft) falls.

Stony Pathway at Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Stony Pathway at Rainbow Falls
In the right light, rainbows form in the spray at the bottom of the falls. We weren’t lucky enough to find any.

Hiker in the wildflowers, Rainbow Falls, Devils Postpile, California USA

Katy on the Path
Wildflowers are in bloom everywhere.

Yellow daisies at the base of a tree, Devils Postpile, California USA

Nature’s Artworks
The extreme climate leads to twisted trees and hardy flowers; …

Yellow daisies at the base of a tree, Devils Postpile, California USA

A Natural Bouquet
I think these are a type of Hymenoxys.

Pearly Everlasting closeup, Devils Postpile, California USA

Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea)

Horse riders advancing Inyo National Forest, California USA

Riders in the Forest
This is a shared track, …

Horse riders retreating, Inyo National Forest, California USA

On the Dusty Trail
… as we are reminded when a trail ride goes past.

Hexagonal columns of basalt at the top of the Devils Postpile, California USA

Columnar Basalt
Our return trail takes across the top of the Devils Postpile,

Tops of the hexagonal columns of basalt at the the Devils Postpile, California USA

Polygonal Shapes
… giving us a bird’s eye view of the tops of the contracted basalt columns.

Tops of the hexagonal columns of basalt at the the Devils Postpile, California USA

On Top of the Postpile
The cooled remnants of the lava flow have been carved, shaped, and polished by the powerful erosive forces of wind, water, earthquakes, and glaciers over the last 80,000 to 100,000 years.

Portrait: Forest Ranger, Devils Postpile, California USA

Ranger Michael
As we walk back down the Postpile, we come across Ranger Michael, who is explaining how to tell the difference between the two main trees in the forest: lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta) and Jeffrey pines (Pinus jeffreyi).

Fresh pine growth, Devils Postpile, California USA

Pine Needles
Unfortunately, I have forgotten which is which!

Devils Postpile, morning, California USA

Devils Postpile
We get one last (slightly better lit) look at the Postpile before returning to our car.

Text: Take only Pictures

As much as it would have been better to have done our homework, and to have explored this area in better-angled sunlight, it is better to have the sun in your eyes than not to go at all! 

And, to paraphrase Hellen Keller, if you keep your face to the sun, you’ll never see the shadows.

Keep Smiling!

Photos: 17July2013

Rotunda in Queens Park, Maryborough Australia

Rotunda in Queens Park
Queens Park in Maryborough was established in 1860, with many of the trees being planted soon after. The lace-trimmed ornamental band rotunda with its cast iron ogees was originally exhibited at the Glasgow International Exhibition in 1888. It was erected in the park in 1890, and I can easily imagine it as a setting for a Mary Poppins fantasy scene.

It was pure serendipity that lead me to spend two nights in the little city of Maryborough, in Southern Queensland, Australia.

I had spent two days on a tour of Fraser Island off Australia’s east coast (see: Living Sands and Rock), and the ferry was scheduled to return to the mainland early evening. I was heading back through Brisbane, some 300 km south, and didn’t fancy driving too far in the dark.

It was after I decided to make nearby Maryborough my stop-over that I read about the Mural Trail. I had really enjoyed hunting out the murals in the little town of Chemainus on British Colombia’s Vancouver Island some years before (see: The Little Town that Did!): so I booked an extra night to allow me a full day in the city.

The Murals of Maryborough were launched in 2015, and the Central Business District now features 37 murals and installations. They depict whimsical and serious stories from Maryborough’s colourful past as an industrial city: building naval ships, sugar-mill machinery, and railway rolling stock; and as one of Australia’s largest ports: serving as a commercial and immigration hub.

Ideally situated on what is now called the Mary River, there is evidence of human habitation in this region stretching back at least 6,000 years. Maryborough was first settled by Europeans in 1847, making it one of Queensland’s oldest and most historic cities. Known as a ‘Heritage City’, it is home to a number of fine old buildings that are listed on the Fraser Coast Heritage Register. And, for serious history buffs, the city and its surrounds is home to a number of quality museums and collections on a range of topics.

Serendipity.

Such a Mary Poppins kind of word …

And, as it happens, P. L. Travers, author of that magical book – a favourite of mine from my late-childhood – was born, as Helen Lyndon Goff, in Maryborough in 1899. She grew up in the Australian bush before going to boarding school in Sydney, and then emigrating to England at the age of 25. Although the fictional Banks family lived in Depression-era London, Travers drew a lot of inspiration from her family and her early surrounds. Tributes to this legacy live on in the city’s buildings, murals, sculptures, and even in the annual Mary Poppins festival in July.

Come with me on a hunt for some stories in art and architecture – and just a smidgen of history:

Clock tower, Maryborough City Hall, Queensland AU

Maryborough City Hall
Any walking tour of Maryborough is best started by collecting maps at the Maryborough Visitor Information Centre, located in the distinctive American-Colonial style City Hall (1908) ;on Kent Street. The elegant clock was added in 1935.

St Paul

St Paul’s Anglican Church
A short walk around the corner, we come to the heritage-listed church (1878) and hall (1921).

Gum tree trunk and the Maryborough Railway Station, Queensland AU

Gorgeous Gum Tree Trunk
I can’t guess at the age of this beautiful eucalyptus tree on Lennox Street, …

Maryborough Railway Station behind a tree, Queensland AU

Maryborough Railway Station
… but the elegant heritage-listed timber railway station complex behind it dates to 1882.

Electric car-charging station, Maryborough Queensland AU

Electric Charging Station
Even a city that takes pride in its heritage can look to the future!

Brave Lexie and

Brave Lexie and ‘Foxie’
– by Brian Tisdall
The first mural I find is on the wall of the Maryborough Fire Station and recognises the bravery of 12-year-old Lex Casperson. In 1927, he and his dog ‘Foxie’ saved his two brothers and a sister from a house fire.

Ellena Street Pavement fly wheel sculpture, Maryborough Queensland AU

Ellena Street Pavement Art and Sculpture
– by Susie Hansen
As a tribute to Maryborough industry, this half fly wheel that was part of the gas engine in the powerhouse of Walkers Ltd – a local engineering company that built ships and railway locomotives – is part of a street installation.

J M Monsour
The Monsour family was at the forefront of Maryborough commerce for many years. Cousins Fred and JM both built two-story shop-houses on Adelaide Street. This one, built in 1914, houses the ‘The Bee Hive’ emporium on the ground floor, and residential accommodation upstairs.

Bronze shoe sculpture, Adelaide Street, Maryborough Queensland AU

Shoes and Stays
– by Mela Cooke / April Spadina
A bronze shoe sculpture sits outside Langers Broadway Shoe Store, a family-run business for almost a century.

The Whip Cracker mural on red bricks, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Whip Cracker
– by Shanay Scarlet
Country towns love their colourful characters! Barbara Dalton was a whip-cracking part of the Dalton Family Whip Cracking Show, which performed at the local markets.

Mirror image of the Prime Minister Fisher mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Prime Minister Fisher
– by Brian Tisdall
Queenslander and founding member of the local Labor Party, Andrew Fisher (1862-1928) served as Australia’s Prime Minister and Treasurer for three terms between 1908 and 1915. We are not looking at the mural – which is across the road – but at its reflection.

The Legends of Moonie Jarl book cover, Maryborough Library, The Legends of Moonie Jarl book cover, Maryborough Library, Queensland AU

The Legends of Moonie Jarl
– by Fiona Foley
First published in 1964, this was the first book written and illustrated by Indigenous Australians. The mural, unveiled outside the library in 2016, depicts the cover of the book of Butchulla creation stories about K’gari (Fraser Island) told and illustrated by Maryborough-born siblings Wilf Reeves and Olga Miller.

Comet Man mural and the laneway behind, Maryborough Queensland AU

Comet Man and Horsburgh Lane
– by Nigel Zschech
While scanning the western skies with binoculars, amateur Maryborough astronomer Mervyn Jones found an unnamed comet on 1 July 1967. In the laneway behind him, you can see the mural dedicated to the endangered Mary River turtle.

The Girl and the Croc mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Girl and the Croc
– by Dan Krause
This whimsical mural in Horburgh Lane was inspired by a photograph taken in the early 1900s of a girl sitting on a four metre crocodile. It is believed the croc was one shot in the Mary River and on display at the Iindah Sugar Plantation in 1903.

Mary Poppins crossing, Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins Crossing
On the corner of Kent and Richmond Streets, the pedestrian crossing lights are little figures of Mary Poppins,

Mary Poppins statue, , Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins Statue
– Dr Rhyl Hinwood AM
… and a statue of the nanny, as she is depicted in the books, watches over. This location was chosen because the building behind – formerly the Australian Joint Stock Bank – is where Travers Robert Goff was an unsuccessful (and, reputedly, alcoholic) bank manager and where author Helen Lyndon Goff (P.L. Travers) was born in 1899.

Old Customs House, Maryborough Queensland AU

Old Customs House
Built in 1899, this beautiful heritage-listed building with its terracotta-clad Dutch-gabled roof now houses a Portside heritage interpretative centre. On the corner opposite, you can see the quirky stainless steel, bronze, copper, and electro-mechanical match-making machine – an installation by artist Russell Anderson.

The Kanaka Memorial, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Kanaka Memorial
In the late 1850s, the Mary River region was found to be ideal for the cultivation of sugar cane. As sugar became more profitable, plantation owners too often relied on importing cheap, sometimes blackbirded, labour from islands in the South Pacific. The first South Sea Islander workers arrived in Maryborough in 1867, and before the practice was stopped in 1904, some 50,000 Kanakas passed through here. This memorial on the Mary River Parklands pays tribute to their cultural heritage, their huge contribution to local economic development, and the appalling ways in which they were treated – leading to their death rates being 400% higher than white Australian workers.

The Post Office and Hotel, Bazaar St, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Post Office (1866) and Post Office Hotel (1889)

Mary Poppins mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Mary Poppins
– by Steve Falco
This mural depicts a number of the magical episodes that take place in the Mary Poppins books.

HealthPro Pharmacy, Maryborough Queensland AU

Colourful Pharmacy

The Dong Sisters mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

The Dong Sisters
– by Dan Krause
The daughters of Chinese migrants who came to Maryborough in search of gold in the 1870s, Ellen and Maud Dong were born in their parents’ home near here.

Part of the Dong Sisters mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

A Dong Sister
– by Dan Krause
The family turned to market gardening, and in 1915, the sisters took over the business of selling vegetables, plants and seeds to the Maryborough community.

Electricity Box painted as a genie in a turban, Maryborough Queensland AU

Electricity Box
Even the Maryborough electrical boxes have their own personalities.

Old Customs House, Maryborough Queensland AU

“Portside”
Old Customs House is so intriguing: it looks different from every angle!

Flight Commander Frank Lawrence mural Maryborough Queensland AU

Flight Commander Frank Lawrence
– by Benjamin Higgins
This mural on the side of the Maryborough Military and Colonial Museum commemorates the city’s most decorated World War II veteran.

Tubby Clayton mural, Maryborough Queensland AU

Tubby Clayton
– by Akos Juhasz
Army Chaplain, Maryborough-born Reverend Philip Thomas Byard “Tubby” Clayton co-founded Talbot House, a place of respite for Allied troops serving on the Western Front during World War I.

St Mary

St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church
The first Roman Catholic services were conducted in 1852 by a visiting Father James Hanley from Brisbane in the house of the local chief constable. The now-heritage-listed St Mary’s Roman Catholic Church was finally built on donated land between 1869 to 1872.

St Mary of the Cross
– by Patrick Phillips
Mary MacKillop was declared Australia’s first saint in 2010. In 1870, the Sisters of St Joseph – the religious order she founded – established a school and residence in Maryborough: the Catholic Church’s first formal education presence in the area.

Clock tower, Maryborough City Hall, Queensland AU

Maryborough City Hall
I end my explorations in the same place I started: at the City Hall.

There are whole chapters behind any one of these, and the many other stories illustrated around the city, and you could easily spend days exploring the richly diverse history.

Text: Happy Rambling

But, I had other places to be, so I pointed the car south, leaving Maryborough behind.

Happy Rambling!

 

Photos: 09June2019

Indian Women in a queue, Haridwar India

Women in a Queue
The crush of people in the streets of Haridwar during a Kumbh Mela is almost unimaginable – but most of them are happy and smiling. Crowds are a such a normal state of affairs during the festival that I can’t remember what these people were lined up for!

It is heartbreaking watching the situation in India with the Kappa and Delta B.1.617 variants of COVID-19 sweeping through the population and devastating communities. First detected last October, the variants – and the societal factors enabling them – have caused a huge second wave of infections and resulted in around 4000 deaths per day at the peak in May (see: Worldometer).

The mass of people who attended the Haridwar Kumbh Mela celebrations between January and April this year has been blamed – at least in part – for this deadly wave. Denial of the event’s potential as a super-spreader has also been rife: back in March, India’s Prime Minister Modi invited devotees to the festival, assuring them it was “clean” and “safe”, and only after the festival’s biggest days – and the illness and hospitalisation of a number of saints and seers – suggested that  attendance should, in future, only be “symbolic”.

As I have written before (see: Haridwar Mela) the Kumbh Mela – literally “festival of the pot” – is one of the most holy Hindu religious festivals and pilgrimages, rotating every three years or so across four sacred river locations. The faithful believe that when they bath in these rivers on the auspicious days, they will be absolved of sins and delivered out of the cycle of birth and death.

They travel all across the country for the privilege – and this year many took COVID-19 home with them, while still denying its existence or impact (see: Guardian: Superspreader).

Of course, many people took heed, and the number of participants was well down on previous melas, with 3.1 million people bathing on the most auspicious day of April 12th. The last time the Kumbh Mela was in Haridwar, back in 2010, an estimated 10 million bathed in the Ganges on the sacred day of April 14th. UNESCO has inscribed the mela as the largest peaceful congregation of pilgrims on earth.

The many pilgrims I met while I was wandering the streets and festival campgrounds of Haridwar in 2010 were open and welcoming. For many of them, it was a once in a lifetime experience, and they were overwhelmingly  happy to be there.

Portrait: Hindu woman in a blue ghoonghat, Haridwar India

Woman in a Blue Ghoonghat
Everywhere I go, I am met with beautiful smiles.

Hindu men in the street reading their papers, Haridwar

Reading the Paper

Hindu sadu in the street, Haridwar India

Sadhu Walking

Indian men in a queue, Haridwar India

People in a Queue
There are crowds everywhere: if I look out of the city …

The backs of Indian people walking in a Haridwar street, India

The Crush in the Streets
… or towards the river-front, the streets are full.

Ghats along the Ganges River, Haridwar India

Along the Ganges
Some of the ghats along branches of the river are quiet – the main bathing sites are elsewhere. That bamboo fencing on the other side of the ghats is for crowd management.

Indian men exchange of money for food, Haridwar India

Food Stall
With millions of people on the move, you need food – and the street venders are doing a brisk trade.

Portrait: Hindu man in white headscarves and glasses, Haridwar India

Man in White

Portrait: Hindu woman in brown scarf and blouse, Haridwar India

Woman in Brown

Portrait: Hindu man in colourful scarves, Haridwar India

Smiling Man in Scarves
I am always touched and amazed by how generous Indian people are: cheerfully interacting with me and allowing me to make their portraits.

Elegant older woman in saffron a ghoonghat, Haridwar India

Elegant Woman in Yellow

Smiling woman in red a ghoonghat, Haridwar India

Woman in Red

Hindu men in the Haridwar camps, India

Men in the Camps
It’s hot on the dusty walkways that lead to temporary camp that houses the mass of humanity.

Sadhu in a saffron topknot, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Saffron
The sadhus fascinate me: …

Sadhu in a yellow turban, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Yellow
… even those travelling together are so different.

Guru in meditation on a platform, Haridwar India

Guru on a Platform
Inside the camp area, gurus, saints, and seers all have their own large tented areas – and their own disciples.

Man doing laundry in a bucket, Haridwar camps, India

Doing Laundry
This might be a temporary space, but everything is quite orderly, and everyday lives continue.

Tent and hanging cloths, Haridwar camps, India

Tent and Cloths

Woman hanging cloths, Haridwar camps, India

Hanging Laundry

Seated smiling sadhu in yellow tilaka, Haridwar camps, India

Smiling Sadhu

Portrait: Sadhu in red and gold tilaka, Haridwar camps, India

Sadhu in Red and Gold

Group of seated men and women in a tent, Haridwar camps, India

Group in a Tent
What amazed me about this group is how well the men sit cross-legged – I don’t think you’d find a group of Westerners who could sit so comfortably!

Portrait: Indian man in white hair and beard with tilaka paste on his hands, Haridwar camps, India

Applying Tilaka

Elegant older Indian in hot pink ghoonghat, Haridwar camps, India

Woman in Pink

Women walking in the lanes between tents, Haridwar camps, India

In the Camps

Mountains in the background of the Ganges, Haridwar

Mountains in the Background
The mountains rise up into the hazy air behind the Ganges River – and the ghats below are crowded with people.

Crowded train platform, Haridwar India

Waiting for the Train
All those pilgrims who come into the city for the mela have to leave again – …

Crowded train platform, Haridwar India

The Long Wait
… so the railway station was packed with travellers and their belongings.

Crowded train platform, Haridwar India

A Train is Coming!

The joy so many people took in attending this religious gathering was palpable. Given that it only happens every twelve years, I can understand people’s reluctance to forgo their planned pilgrimages.

But, this year’s participants and their communities have paid a high price.

 

Photos: 15April2010

Carved marble dome, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Carved Domes
The delicately carved marble domes of the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, high on a hill in Muscat, are a magnificent example of modern Islamic architecture.

Mosques – masjed or masjid – are a prominent feature in any Islamic landscape (eg.: Jama Mosque). With their beautiful domes, their graceful arches, and their soaring minarets, these houses of Muslim worship draw attention upwards and engender admiration, reverence and calm.

During a short stay in Muscat, capital city of the Sultanate of Oman – a Muslim country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula – I spent the morning in two of the cities largest and most beautiful mosques: the Sultan Qaboos Mosque or Grand Mosque, and the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque.

Non-Muslim visitors (in modest dress, of course) are only welcomed into these holy places during restricted hours, but I had a local guide to maximise my time and to explain what I was seeing.

Traditionally, Islam doesn’t allow the depictions of human or animal figures in religious art, in part because of the prohibition against idolatry and the fear that people will respect or worship the creation whilst forgetting the Creator, and in part from the belief that the creation of living things is God’s prerogative as the divine musawwir (maker of forms, artist).

So, the beauty of mosques is in their architectural structures, and in the richly complex and intricate patterns that decorate them.

The typical mosque form includes ten elements (see: Rethinking the Future), comprising: domes, usually as a part the roofs and often with an oculus to let in light; arches, generally marking the entrances to buildings and rooms; muqarnas, a type of honey-combed ornamental vaulting on the underside of domes or arches, from the Arabic word ‘qarnasi ’meaning ‘intricate work’; tall minarets, often with balconies; a mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque which faces Mecca and marks the direction for prayers; Arabesque art; a rectangular or square hypostyle hall; courtyards; gardens; and an iwan, a rectangular hall with walls on three sides and one open side.

The decoration of mosques relies on three principle motifs: complex tessellations of geometric patterns; arabesques inspired by the curving and branching of plants; and stylised calligraphy of religious texts in Arabic.

Exploring the beautiful Indian sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world, and the newer marble-clad Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, we can see all of these elements in situ.

Distant approach to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Approaching the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
On the walk up to the Grand Mosque, we get a sense of space, and can appreciate the architectural elements of the surrounding gardens, the dome, and a minaret. The mosque was built between 1994 and 2001 using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone.

The dome of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque from the entry, Muscat Oman

Dome in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
The beautiful filigree dome rises 50 metres (160 ft) above the floor of the main musalla or prayer hall.

Portrait: Male Omani, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oma

Omani Guide
Our guide, Said (from NTT Oman), wearing his blue and white muzzar, gives us a briefing before we go inside.

Arches inside the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Repeated Patterns 
With the minaret in the background, the arches inside the mosque are reflected in the shiny patterned floor in the foreground.

Lamps and arched ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Lanterns Above
Intricate patterns are everywhere I look – in the ceiling and the filagree lamps above …

Stained glass arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Stained Glass Arch
… and in the colours of the lead-light glass in windows.

Painted Patterned Ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Inlayed Patterned Ceiling

Omani man in a thawb, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Omani Man in a Thawb

Light and Dark

Dome and Blue Sky, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Dome and Blue Sky

Arch and Lamp, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Lamp

 Arch and Minaret, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Minaret

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall
The gold-plated Swarovski crystal chandelier at the centre of the prayer hall is 14 metres (46 feet) tall, and until 2007, was the largest in the world. 

Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arches and Chandeliers
A number of smaller chandeliers of the same design decorate and light the building.

People and the Mihrab, Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Mihrab
The mihrab (or qibla wall) indicates the direction to the Kaaba in Mecca. The honeycomb muqarna above it symbolises the complexity of Islamic ideology.

Outdoor arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch to the Outside
Delicately carved arches frame the surrounding mountains.

Holy Books, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Holy Books

Seated woman, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Woman at Rest

Arched Corridors, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arched Corridors

Outside the prayer hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Gardeners in the Courtyard
The main musalla or prayer hall is 74.4 by 74.4 metres (244 by 244 feet) square, and can hold over 6500 worshippers.

The Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Bright White
A short drive away, the magnificent marble-clad Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque is smaller and newer than the Grand Mosque. Sometimes called the Bahwan Mosque after its benefactors, it sits up on a hill and can be seen from all parts of the city.

Elaborate Interior, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Elaborate Interior

Omani guide with a holy book, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Guide with a Holy Book
Said shows us one of the many ornately decorated religious books at the mosque.

Filigree Lamps in the Ladies Prayer Hall, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Filigree Lamps
Men and women are separated during prayer. The Ladies Prayer Hall is empty and dimly lit when we enter.

Marble portico, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Riwaq
Arcades or porticos, open on at least one side, are a common element in Islamic architecture and design.

Mosque Library
Countless gilded volumes fill the shelves of library.

Portrait: two young Omani men at a library table, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Religious Students
Two of the scholars in the library are happy to take a break from their work and chat with us.

Marble minarets against a blue sky, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Marble Minarets
All the columns and walls of the mosque are cladded with white Italian Carrara marble, so it shines in the morning sun. At night, the mosque is bathed in blue floodlights.

These two mosques are truly beautiful examples of Islamic architecture – and were quite a delicate contrast to the many Omani forts I later visited.

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

 

Pictures: 20October2019

  • […] HallOur first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around […]ReplyCancel

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  • Dhanika Ranasinghe - November 14, 2021 - 8:14 am

    Accidentally dropped into your page while looking for some photos of Al Ameen Mosque. As one of the architects heavily involved in the design & construction of the Al Ameen Mosque, I felt extremely happy to see your post, which is very accurate.

    As you have written, both Grand Mosque & Al Ameen Mosque have somewhat similar architectural language/ features. It is no wonder when both were designed by the same architect !!!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 14, 2021 - 9:04 am

      Hi Dhanika,
      So lovely of you to stop in and leave a comment – how wonderful that you are involved in creating such beautiful buildings! I’m very glad you didn’t find any errors in the text – I am pretty careful. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Tesis Early Oman | geoabbasid's Blog - September 9, 2022 - 10:17 am

    […] Lines and Curves and Sacred Spaces: Two Muscat Mosques, Oman. ursulas weekly – link. […]ReplyCancel