Rocky outcrops and blue and white waters from the Bermagui Coast Walk, NSW Australlia

Rocky Outcrop
The views over the Sapphire Coast from the Bermagui Coast Walk in the far south of New South Wales on a sunny spring day are breathtaking.

If you are going to be locked in your own region because of Covid-19 border controls, it helps to have a magnificent back yard!

For most of the past almost-two years, those of us in Australia – like people in much of the rest of the world – have been under some level of travel restriction. Part of this period, I couldn’t venture further than five kilometres from home, and even then only for ‘essential purposes’. 

Fortunately, I live in a beautiful area, and unlike last year, this year we weren’t hampered by raging bush fires. There were windows of opportunity when the boundaries expanded slightly, and I took advantage of those when I could.

Back in July, the walking group of my regional branch of the National Parks Association was able to meet up – in a Socially-Distanced manner, of course – for a short walk in Ben Boyd National Park, which is literally on my doorstep. 

I’ve done this walk before (see: In the Aussie Bush), but what amazes me when I looked back over the pictures from both visits, is how many differences there were in what caught my attention. Both times I’ve done this undulating 6 kilometre (return) walk, we started at Haycock Point picnic area, had our picnic lunches on Barmouth Beach, and then returned.

Two eastern grey kangaroos, Haycock Point, NSW Australia.

Roos in the Grass
On a flat area just north of our starting spot at the Haycock Point picnic area, a couple of eastern grey kangaroos (macropus giganteus) are resting in the grass.

Haystack Rock off Haycock Point, NSW Australia.

Haystack Rock
Haycock Point gives us views over the rock platform to the dome-shaped Haystack Rock. The iron-oxide that colours these red, riverine rocks is a relic of the atmospheric oxygen from the Devonian Age.

Rocky coast north of Haycock Point, NSW Australia.

Colours of the Sapphire Coast
The variations of the blues in the waters are impressive against the layers of colour in the rocky coast.

Colourful lichens on a large boulder, Haycock Point walking track, NSW Australia.

Colourful Lichens and Tumbled Rock
The fungus on the boulders, and the shrubs on cliff face, are a veritable patchwork of hues and textures.

New Holland honeyeater, Haycock Point walking track, NSW Australia.

New Holland Honeyeater – Phylidonyris Novaehollandiae

Haystack Rock and coast from north of Haycock Point, NSW Australia.

The Jagged Shore
From the cliff tops, a break in the heath, banksia, and gum trees, allows us views back over the coast to Haystack Rock. The SS Empire Gladstone survived World War II only to ground – without loss of life, fortunately – on the rocks on the south side of this spit in 1950. The sunken ship is now a popular dive site.

Arched rock, Haycock Point walking track, NSW Australia.

Arched Rock Lookout
Shortly, we come to another break in the overgrowth, where we have views over an unnamed arch of rock.

Arched rock, Haycock Point walking track, NSW Australia.

The Unnamed Arch
This unusual rock arch is just one of the many craggy sculptures created by the eroding forces of the ocean.

The mouth of the Pambula River, Haycock Point walking track, NSW Australia.

Pambula Beyond
Around the next bend, the colours of the water deepen at the mouth of the Pambula River, and parts of the small town of the same name come into view.

View down over the red rocks on Barmouth Beach from Haycock Point walking track, NSW Australia.

Red Rocks on Barmouth Beach Below

Silver Gull on Barmouth Beach, NSW Australia.

Silver Gull – Chroicocephalus Novaehollandiae
A hopeful gull watches us as we lunch.

After lunch on the beach, we walked back the way we had come … 

Some months later, in spring – and after another lockdown spell – I had the opportunity to do a walk that I had always promised myself: overlooking the Horse Head Rock near Wallaga Lake.

My walking companion and I started with a late lunch in Bermagui before driving a short way north and parking the car at Hayward Point. From there, we picked up the walking track that follows the old Tilba Road. In spite of being unpaved until 1963, this was the main road into Bermagui from the north-south Princes Highway. It threaded its way between the Long Swamp Nature Reserve and the Pacific Ocean. Sections of the road washed away in the 1970s, before it finally became a cycle- and waking-track.

View of Bermagui from Hayward Point, Old Tilba Road, NSW Australia

Bermagui to the South
We start our walk at Hayward Point, where we can look south over the beach to the little coastal town of Bermagui

View north from Hayward Point, Old Tilba Road, NSW Australia

North from Hayward Point
… and north along the empty sandy coastline.

Landscape: Waters west of Horseshoe Bay, Bermagui NSW Australia

Long Swamp Flora and Fauna Reserve
After walking a short way, we are on a slight ridge with water on both sides: Hayward Beach drops down to Horseshoe Bay and the Pacific Ocean on the right, and Long Swamp stretches out along the left.

Coastal Banksia, Bermagui, NSW Australia

Coastal Banksia – Banksia Integrifolia

Yellow Pig Face flower, Tilba Road, Bermagui NSW Australia

Pig Face Yellow – Lampranthus Glaucus
When we come back into the open, pig face – or ice flowers – are defending the sands from erosion.

Branching trees over a walking track, Bermagui, NSW Australia

Branching Trees
The path leads us under the trees, …

Camel Rock, Bermagui Coastal Walk, NSW Australia

Camel Rock
… and back to the cliffs overlooking the aptly-named Camel Rock.

Rocks on the Sapphire Coast, Bermagui Coastal Walk, NSW Australia

Rocks on the Sapphire Coast
Even the unnamed rocks are pretty impressive!

Daisies on the path, Bermagui Coastal Walk, NSW Australia

Daisies on the Path

Horsehead Rock, Bermagui Coastal Walk, NSW Australia

Horse Head Rock
The next feature is the one I have been waiting for: Horse Head Rock, which is believed to be approximately 500 million years old!

Landscape: View over the sandbar between the ocean and Wallaga Lake, Bermagui Coastal Walk, NSW Australia

Sandbar and Wallaga Lake
Our walking path ends near Murunna Point, where we admire the sand bar that keeps Wallaga Lake separated from the Pacific Ocean

Sea eagle in a blue sky, Bermagui Coastal Walk, NSW Australia

White-Bellied Sea Eagle – Haliaeetus Leucogaster
… and a white-bellied sea-eagle circles overhead. Raptors always get my attention, and although I never get ‘the shot’ I want, I love watching them soar.

Landscape: pastoral land, Cobargo-Bermagui Road, NSW Australia

Cobargo-Bermagui Road
As stunning as the coastal walks are, driving home through the verdant fields is just as beautiful! (iPhone12Pro)

 

Wherever you have found yourself in this strange andText: Safe Travels! Ursulalocked-down world, I hope you have some natural beauty to comfort you, and blue skies overhead.

Until next time –

Stay Safe!

Photos: 18July2021 and 22October2021

Tiled roofs and cobbled streets, Bryggen, Bergen Norway

Looking into Bryggen Laneways
The old streets of Bergen’s Hanseatic Wharf district are narrow, cobbled, and winding – and busy with visitors exploring Bryggen‘s history and shops.

It was raining.

But that didn’t stop the residents of Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city, from coming out into the streets and public spaces to celebrate their cultural heritage. I was very lucky with the Sunday I had by myself exploring the delightful city: a local troupe was performing traditional folk dances under the protective roof of the central railway station, and the Buekorps – the Bow Corps or Archery Brigade – were marching through the city.

The Buekorps is a peculiarly Norwegian concept that was once active across other cities, but is now unique to Bergen. The tradition dates back to the 18th century when local boys would imitate the adult militia soldiers performing close-order drills. By the 1850s, the boys had organised themselves into bataljoner (battalions) and built their own “fortresses” from which to engage in “warfare” against children from other neighbourhoods. Today, members range in age from about 7 to 20, with the first girls being admitted in 1991. On special days during spring – especially on May 17th, Norwegian Constitution Day – the children march through the streets with wooden guns, swords, and drums.

Even away from the dancers and the marching children, the streets of this UNESCO World Heritage City and European City of Culture were a delight to explore. I had gained an overview of some of the surrounding hills the day before (see: Overlooking Bergen), so I was looking forward to wandering the steep cobbled streets at my own pace.

Do join me!

Two small blond Norwegian girls in folk costume, Bergen

Little Girls in Costume
I was lucky: my hotel was near the train station, and when I went in to check it out (and to escape the rain), some delightful Norwegian children in their plaits and embroidered reindeer boots were waiting to dance.

Small Norwegian girls and a female teacher in folk costume, Bergen

Enthusiasm!
The enthusiasm of these little girls, as they performed their traditional folk dances with their teacher, was infectious!

Folk Dancing Circle, Bergen train station Norway

Children’s Folk Dancing Circle

Portrait of a female Norwegian folk dancer, Bergen train station

Portrait of a Folk Dancer
The next group to perform were women, with flower wreaths on their heads, …

Female Norwegian folk dancers, Bergen train station

Swirling Skirts
… and with plaited hair and long skirts flying.

Two female Norwegian folk dancers, Bergen train station

Folk Dancers
High kicks featured, …

A female Norwegian folk dancer, Bergen train station

Dancer in a Red Bodice
… as did a joyful attitude.

A male Norwegian folk dancer, Bergen train station

The Dancing Suitor
This was a couple’s dance, but the woman and man did a solo turn …

A Norwegian couple folk dancing, Bergen train station

Joyful Couple
… before joining together in a cheerful and lively pantomime.

Street art of a troll and a wolf, Danckert Krohn Seniorsenter, Kong Oscars gate, Bergen Norway

Street Art
I left the shelter of the station to climb a hill through the old city – where I came upon my first fearsome troll of the day. Trolls are a feature of Scandinavian folklore and Old Norse mythology. They live in isolated rocks, mountains, or caves… and on the sides of some Bergen buildings.

Molløesmauet Street, Bergen Norway

Steep Streets
The cobbled streets are steep and narrow as they wind and zig-zag up the hillside.

View over St. John

Johanneskirken Standing Tall
The views back down over the city make the climb worth it. The red brick Gothic-revival St. John’s Church, built in 1894, stands out below.

View over St. Paul

St. Paul’s Church and Bergen Harbour
Colourful walls and rooftops lift any gloom from the lowering sky …

Knitted skirts around tree trunks, Bergen Norway

Knitted Trees
… and knitted skirts around some of the trees are positively cheerful.

View over Christi Krybbe Skoler and Bergen, Norway

Over Bergen Rooftops
From another vantage point, we can see Christi Krybbe Skoler, the oldest existing elementary school in Scandinavia, and the two towers of the oldest existing building in Bergen: Mariakirken (St Mary’s Church), built in the 12th century.

The old Skansen fire station, Bergen Norway

Skansen Brannstasjon
Inspired by 17th- and 18th-century panel architecture, the old Skansen fire station was actually opened in late 1903.

Bergen Harbour from Øvre Blekeveien, Norway

Bergen Harbour from Above

Cobbled Pathways
I work my way back down the hill using cobbled pathways between tall buildings.

Øvre Blekeveien and Ole Eides Gate, Bergen Norway

Øvre Blekeveien and Ole Eides Gate

Magnolia blooms in the narrow streets of Bergen, Norway

Spring Magnolias
Magnolia blooms signal spring.

Bust of Audun Hetland, Bergen Norway

Audun Hetland (1920 – 1998)
A bust in a street near Bryggen celebrates a Bergen-born Norwegian illustrator.

Woman in red in the rainy courtyard outside St. Marys Church, Bergen Norway

Rainy Courtyard
When I get back down to the courtyard outside St. Marys Church, light rains have settled in again.

St. Mary

Mariakirken
The Romanesque-style St. Mary’s Church is a basilica-shaped stone church with two towers. The oldest remaining building in Bergen, it was started in the 1130s and finished some time before 1250.

The wooden door of St. Mary

St. Mary’s Church Door
The German merchants during the Hanseatic era (1356 – 1862) used this church, leading it to be called the “the German church” (Tyskekirken).

Black metal door latch, St. Mary

St. Mary’s Church Door Latch

Wooden walkways through Bryggen, Bergen Norway

Tyskebryggen – “German Bryggen”
Narrow old wooden walkways wind through the UNESCO heritage-listed Hanseatic commercial buildings in Bryggen. They are slippery when wet – and a fire-hazard when dry.

Customers outside the 3 Kroneren Pølsebu sausage stand, Kong Oscar gate Bergen Norway

3 Kroneren Pølsebu
It was well past lunch time when I got back to the centre of the old town, but this historic sausage shop was still doing a brisk trade. In operation since 1948, the ‘three kroner’ sausages have gone up since then. There is a huge selection of international treats to chose from, but when in Norway... I had the reindeer sausage with loganberry – and it was delicious!

Youths of the Buekorps, Bergen Norway

Youths of the Buekorps
By early afternoon, groups of uniformed and ‘armed’ youths were walking into the city centre to form their battalions.

Portrait: Boy of the Buekorps, Bergen Norway

Portrait of Young Buekorps Boys
Each troupe has their own colours and insignia. Some of the children look very young!

A child

Back Lanes
It’s the everyday sites that attract my eye: like this child’s bicycle in a graffitied laneway.

Museum Lepramuseet St. Jorgens Hospital, Bergen Norway

St. Jorgens Hospital
St. Jørgen’s Hospital, one of Scandinavia’s oldest hospital complexes, was established in the early 1400’s. This well-preserved building was built in the 18th-century and was a residential treatment facility for people with leprosy from the 1870’s until the death of the last two residents in 1946.

Museum Lepramuseet
The Leprosy Museum was established in 1970 in this hospital complex. The museum recognises the thousands of people who suffered from the illness in Norway. Bergen-born Norwegian physician Gerhard Armauer Hansen (1841 – 1912) discovered the bacterial cause of leprosy, the Mycobacterium leprae, in 1873. This lead to better treatments and ultimately a vaccine and a cure.

Youths of the Buekorps drumming in a street, Bergen Norway

Buekorps in the Street
Back in my room in the late afternoon, I can see the drummers, still marching in the wet street below.

Glassware on a small candlelit table, Bergen Norway

Koselig or Hygge
Downstairs in the dim dining room, I am met with shining glassware on tables set with candles and flowers, and chairs draped in comforting sheepskins: the kind of scene that invites the warm cozy feeling that the Norwegians call koselig, and the Danish introduced to the world as hygge. (iPhone6)

The Danish word hygge comes from a sixteenth-century Norwegian term, hugga, meaning “to comfort” or “to console,” and is related to the English word “hug.”

That dining room – and a wonderful meal – chased away any chill remaining from being out in the wet streets, and was a fitting end to a lovely couple of days exploring Bergen.

Like a warm hug.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 28April2018

People at the feet of the seated Colossi outside the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt

Temple of Ramesses II – Abu Simbel
Visitors are dwarfed by the 20-metre (65 foot) seated Colossi that the Pharaoh Ramesses II had built in his own honour.

The archaeological remains and artefacts that survive to attest to the richness of the almost 30 centuries of civilisation we now call Ancient Egypt (3100-333 BC ) are mind-boggling.

That people between 3000 and 5000 years ago conceived of – and built – the pyramids, tombs, mausoleums, and temples, that scatter along the Nile amazes me. That they built them so well that these structures endure for us to explore and enjoy today is just astonishing!

I was awestruck by each and every archaeological site, but one of my favourites was at Abu Simbel.

Abu Simbel sits 280 kilometres south of Aswan, in what is now the Aswan Governorate of Upper Egypt. During the rule of Pharaoh Ramesses II (1303-1213 BC) – also known as Rameses and Ramses – this was Nubia, and the southern limit of Egyptian control at the time. Ramesses II is often regarded as the greatest pharaoh of the Ancient Egypt’s New Kingdom  (1570- c. 1069 BCE). He built a number of temples to impress and intimidate his trading partners and enemies, and to memorialise and deify himself: the most prominent of these are the two temples at Abu Simbel.

The rock-cut temples were originally constructed over three thousand years ago, between 1264 and 1244 BC. The larger of the two, the Great Temple, was dedicated to Ramesses II himself, and the Small Temple, also known as the Temple of Hathor, was dedicated to his chief wife Queen Nefertari. As impressive as these are, over time they fell into disuse. They were almost completely buried in sand when they were rediscovered in 1813. The story goes that a Swiss explorer was led to the site by an Egyptian-Nubian boy called Abu Simbel. By 1909, the sand had been removed, and the site became a popular attraction.

Then, with the building of the world’s largest embankment dam, the 4,000 metres (13,000 ft) long Aswan High Dam – between 1960 and 1970 – the temples were at risk of being lost under the rising waters of Lake Nasser. The Egyptian Government, with the assistance of UNESCO, managed to source international funding to rescue these two temples and the Temple Complex at Philae (see: The Sacred Temple of Isis). Between 1964 and 1968 the Abu Simbel temples were cut into 20 to 30 ton sections, moved and reassembled in the current location which is an artificial cliff 210 m (688ft) back from and 65 m (213 ft) above their original position, and then surrounded by an artificial stone mountain. Getting the orientation right was critical, because the temples were aligned to allow the rising or setting sun to reach the central chamber on the anniversaries of Ramesses II’s ascension to the throne and on his birthday.

The feat of engineering that successfully relocated the temples – and the magnificence of the original temples themselves – is recognised by the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the “Nubian Monuments from Abu Simbel to Philae”.

Although it is possible to drive the 300 km (168 mile) from Aswan to Abu Simbel, we took an early morning 30-minute flight to the nearby small airport: to my mind, this made the whole trip even more exotic.

It truly is a marvel worth visiting!

Bare, sandy approach to the Temples of Abu Simbel Egypt

Can you Feel the Heat?
Aswan is known for its hot desert climate. It is just after ten o’clock on an October morning: the sun is high in a cloudless sky, and heat radiates from the unshaded sandy terrain.

Front of the Great Temple of Rameses II, Abu Simbel Egypt

Great Temple of Rameses II
As you round the bend, the front of the temple commands the scene. Standing at 33 metres (108 feet) high and 38 metres (125 feet) wide, the Great Temple dwarfs the visitors in the forecourt.

Front of the Queen Nefertari Temple At Abu Simbel, Egypt

The Temple of Hathor – The Small Temple
The nearby temple dedicated to the the Nubian Queen Nefertari, the favourite wife of Rameses II, has six 10-metre (33 foot) statues standing in niches across the front.

Three standing statues at the front of the Queen Nefertari Temple At Abu Simbel, Egypt

Outside the Small Temple
Each side of the temple doorway a carved relief of Queen Nefertari is flanked by two statues of Rameses II. It is unusual in Egyptian art for pharaohs to be depicted in the same scale as their wives – and is further demonstration of his esteem for her.

The head of Ramesses II outside the Small Temple,Abu Simbel, Egypt

Ramesses II outside the Small Temple
In spite of the passage of time, there is a rough-hewn beauty to the original sandstone the temples were carved into.

Mural reliefs in the hypostyle hall, Temple of Hathor, Abu Simbel Egypt

Hypostyle Hall – The Temple of Hathor
The logic escapes me: I could take photos with my phone quite freely inside the temples – but not with my cameras. (iPhone6)

Hathor Column in the hypostyle hall, Temple of Hathor, Abu Simbel Egypt

Hathor Column: Hypostyle Hall

Mural reliefs in the Temple of Hathor, Abu Simbel Egypt

Tourists, Columns, and Art

Mural reliefs in the Temple of Hathor, Abu Simbel Egypt

Wall Art Inside the Nefertari Temple
Anyone who knows how to ‘read’ these stories could spend hour in here: I just admired the designs and colours. (iPhone6)

Visitors to the Abu Simbel, Egypt

Visitors to the Site
Back outside in the heat and glare, it’s a short walk between temple entrances.

People on the path to the seated Colossi outside the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt

Great Temple
The four seated 20-metre (65 foot) Colossi of Ramesses II are imposing as you approach them.

Three of the seated Colossi outside the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt

Temple of Ramesses II
The reconstruction and renovation allows a sense of ‘age’ as well as timelessness.

Horus with the solar disk of the God Ra, the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt.

Horus
The temple was originally built by Ramesses II to commemorate his victory at the Battle of Kadesh (1274 BC), and is dedicated to the himself and the ancient Egyptian Gods of Amon, Ra, and Ptah. Here, Horus wears the solar disk of the God Ra.

Mut-Tuy and graffiti on a Calossi leg, the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt.

Mut-Tuy and Graffiti
At the feet of the Colossi, small figures of members of the Pharaoh’s family. I think this worn figure is the mother of Rameses II.

Queen Nefertari under the knee of a Calossi leg, the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt.

Queen Nefertari – Left
Tucked under the Pharaoh’s knees on either side of the entry, …

Queen Nefertari under the knee of a Calossi leg, the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt.

Queen Nefertari – Right
… the favourite wife stands like mirror images.

Sculpture of Horus in front of a tablet of hieroglyphs, the Great Temple, Abu Simbel Egypt.

Horus and Hieroglyphs

The head of Ramesses II outside the Great Temple, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Ramesses II
There is a modern, minimalist, beauty in these ancient figures.

Osirian column of Ramesses II, Hypostyle Hall, Great Temple, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Hypostyle Hall
Inside the Grand Temple, beautiful Osirian columns represent Ramesses in his deified form. (iPhone6)

Gods seated in the Inner Sanctuary, Great Temple, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Inner Sanctuary : House of the Gods
At the heart of the temple, Ramesses II, Ptah (God of creation), Amun (The Creator God), and Ra (Sun God) sit in the dark where the sun only reaches two days a year.

Visitors in a dark corridor, Great Temple, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Inside the Main Temple
Even with soft modern lighting, the corridors are dim. On the end wall, Amun, the creator God is just visible with his two tall plumes on his head.

Mural in the Transverse Chamber, Great Temple, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Transverse Chamber Inside Abu Simbel
Endless stories cover the walls inside the temple: tales of battles and treaties, of divine offerings and rituals. (iPhone6)

Mural in the Transverse Chamber, Great Temple, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Murals in the Transverse Chamber
It would take forever to ‘read’ all the stories. (iPhone6)

Stone cairn on Lake Nasser, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Cairns on Lake Nasser
Outside, more modern people have left their mark.

Stone cairns on Lake Nasser, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Behind the Temples
I have some time before I have to meet my bus, so I follow the path that leads around the mountain and behind the temples.

Alabaster and painted metal trinkets, Abu Simbel, Egypt

Souvenirs
There are always souvenir shops between a temple and the exit! I don’t mind: even when I have no intention of buying anything, I like to admire the handicrafts on offer.

Sand and water from an airplane window, Abu Simbel, Egypt

… And Back Again!
Too soon we are back on the road, and then in the air, heading north to Aswan. (iPhone6)

Some Ancient Egyptian concepts of life, afterlife, and eternal life, are quite foreign to most of us now. Still, Pharaoh Ramesses II’s attempt to achieve immortality through his colossal stone statues and magnificent temples has been – at least partially – successful.

Those who built in granite achieved works – beautiful pyramids, beautiful works – so that their builders should become gods.

Text: Happy Travels

Whether he secured deity or immortality, we will never know.

But, he certainly lives on in his buildings – and in my memories.

Pictures: 11October2019

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Feathers, Shells, and Face Paint
These Western Highland women have spent hours getting ready – but now they can sing, dance, and enjoy themselves – which is what the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is all about.

Papua New Guinea is known for its colourful tribes. Even the official government tourism site features different tribal groups in their elaborate tradition costumes and face paint.

Of course, the country is also known for its ongoing inter-tribal animosities. Tribal warfare continues to be the subject of regular news reports and academic study.

Papua New Guinea sing sings are gatherings of tribes or villages to show off their distinct culture, dance, and music. The Mount Hagen sing sing started back in the early 1960s, before Independence, as a peacekeeping effort to foster understanding between sparring tribes. The colonial administrators hoped to reduce tribal fighting by promoting positive forms of competition.

Today, this popular event takes place every year on the Saturday and Sunday of the third weekend of August at the Kagamuga Showground in Mount Hagen. Cash prizes and significant prestige are still available to the ‘winners’ in terms of dance, performance, and traditional costume. The festival attracts up to 100 distinctive cultural groups from the Western Highlands Province, and from all over the rest of the country, and is a popular stop on tourist itineraries. As well as bringing in tourist dollars, this festival – and others like it – help to keep indigenous languages and culture alive by valuing the external expressions of these timeless traditions, and encouraging participation by younger community members.

Some years ago, I was at the Mount Hagen Sing Sing Festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts. We spent significant time watching and photographing while the disparate groups they got ready for their performances. The array of distinctive tribal costumes, face-paints, and headdresses was just amazing (see: Mount Hagen)!

The main show runs from about 9am to 2pm, and it was now the last day; I spent the morning in the nearby school where a number of Western Highland troupes were putting the final touches on their outfits and paint (see: Portraits on a Rainy Morning).

When I returned to the main show grounds, it was just in time for the last dances – and a few more colourful portraits.

Join me!

Western Highlands women in festival costume dancing in a school grounds, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Women’s Practice Session
In a corner of the school yard near the Mount Hagen Sing Sing Festival Showgrounds, a Western Highlands women’s group put in a last-minute practice.

Close-up: Pink feathers and fur strung with shells, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Feathers, Fur, and Shells
The women’s heavy and elaborate neck scarves are made from colourful cuscus fur interlaced with different types of shells.

Three Western Highland women standing tall against an overcast sky, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Tall against the Sky
The women stand proud in the face paint, tall feathered headdresses, heavy shell necklaces and and kina-shell breast plates.

Portrait: Two Police Special Services Division officers in uniform, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Local Forces
A short walk away in a large paddock, a number of tribal groups are getting ready. The police presence is conspicuous and well armed …

Portrait: Two Police Special Services Division officers in uniform, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Police Special Services Division
… but friendly.

Western Highland man in black and yellow face paint, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Yellow and Black
A bilum is an iconic Papua New Guinean string bag made using a knotless netting technique. The same skill goes into making the colourful hats that are stuffed with moss (or other materials) and often decorated with beads, leaves, and feathers.

Western Highland men applying face paint, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Concentration
Everyone is concentrating on their small, hand-held mirrors. I love the bikini-clad young lady pictured on this one.

Carved and painted tribal shields, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Tribal Shields
On the way into the show grounds, a number of local items are on display and for sale: carvings; paintings; bilum bags; woven sisal, seagrass, and cane products; and leather goods.

Moikep man in face paint playing a bamboo flute, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Moikep Bamboo Flute Group
Inside the show grounds, colour and sound is everywhere – …

Moikep man playing a bamboo flute, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Moikep Man on a Bamboo Flute
… but not every group is here to dance, and not every performer is in costume.

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Western Highland Women Dancing
After they have done a few laps around the exhibition space, the different groups continue dancing in their own little corners – …

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Red White and Blue
… – somehow managing to ignore competing songs and rhythms just a few feet away.

Sleeping Western Highlands child in face paint, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Tuckered Out
Not everyone can last the distance!

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Same, Same, but Different!
I thought this was the same group I had watched practicing at the school – but they are not! There are small, but significant differences in their headdresses and face paint. And of course, the songs and dances are different.

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Mindima Woman
In a similar fashion, these headdresses resemble those from Jiwaka, the next province to the west. But, the women’s hand-written cardboard sign identified them as the Mindima Women’s Group, which is from nearby Chimbu (Simbu) Province.

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Last Song : Last Dance

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Huge Headdress
The Chimbu are known for their huge headdresses made from bird of paradise feathers which can be up to one meter long.

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Feathers
I’m always staggered by the number of rare parrots and other bird parts that make it into these fantastic ceremonial headdresses. Fortunately, they are usually well looked after between festivals, so new headdresses are not needed every year.

Man and young woman from the Kerapia Boys Hela Wigman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Kerapia Boys Hela Wigman
As I’ve spoken about before, the Wigmen from Hela Province grow their own hair to make their elaborate headdresses. The young woman’s hat, on the other hand, is constructed from fur and feathers.

Western Highland boy in face paint and moss, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Western Highlands Boy

Western Highland man in face paint and high hat, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Western Highlands Man
Some of the men’s headdresses stand incredibly tall – and it’s hard to get the whole thing into one shot as they loom against the sky. Fortunately, the festival has wrapped up – as it looks like it is going to rain again!

It certainly is – as advertised – a cultural festival for the senses! The kaleidoscope of colours and noise stayed with me for a long time after the last dance was finished.

Text: Keep smilingI think we were all winners.

Until next time,

Keep Smiling!

Pictures: 20August2017

Colourful kites in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kites over Colombo
It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon, and families were flying colourful kites over Galle Face Green in Colombo’s Fort District.

Colombo, the commercial capital of Sri Lanka, is a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural city of 5.6 million. Thanks to its large natural harbour and its strategic position along the East–West sea trade routes, the city has a long and colourful history, some of which is still evidenced in the historic colonial buildings dotted between temples and modern sky scrapers.

Colombo was known to Indian, Greek, Persian, Roman, Arab, and Chinese traders for over 2,000 years. Arab traders – whose descendants make up 9.2% of the Sri Lankan population today – settled in the region in the 8th century AD. The Portuguese arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, establishing a small trading post and laying the foundations for a fort in 1517. This harbour-front area is still called Fort District, even though nothing remains of the fortifications that were elaborated many times over the years: by the original Portuguese, the Dutch, and finally the British, who pulled down the ramparts 1879 when attack by sea was no longer a real threat.

As Colombo’s central business district, Fort features a number of imposing modern high-rises as well as impressive examples of original colonial architecture. What draws locals to the area, however, is the Galle Face Green, the city’s largest open space, stretching for 500 m (1,600 ft) between the multi-story buildings along Galle Road and the foreshore of the Indian Ocean. The Galle Face Green Promenade, was set aside and built in 1859 during the British colonial era (see: Wikipedia).

I was lucky enough to have a friend living and working in the city when I visited some years ago, and as she too is a photography-enthusiast, she guided us to the best districts to walk around. We spent the weekend chatting as we alternated photo-walks with coffee-stops around the city: the temples and narrow streets of Slave Island on the Saturday (see: Buddhas of Colombo and Slave Island Streets) and the streets and parklands of Fort District on the Sunday – culminating at the historic Galle Face Hotel for sunset drinks and flag ceremony.

Do come along!

World Trade Center towers from inside the Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo Sri Lanka

Old Dutch Hospital
We started our Fort photowalk with coffee at the Old Colombo Dutch Hospital – built-for-purpose some time before 1681, and now retrofitted as an upmarket shopping precinct. In contrast to the clay tiles on the roof of the old low-rise building, the shiny towers of Colombo’s World Trade Center rise 43 stories up into the air.

Cargills (Ceylon) Limited building, Colombo Sri Lanka

Cargills (Ceylon) Limited
Once the home of the Dutch military commander of Galle Fort, the building here was acquired by the Cargills company in 1896, and rebuilt between 1902 and 1906. I don’t know how close the current version is to the original: there is a foundation stone dated 1684 preserved inside.

Sri Lanka Port Authority, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Port Authority

Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple with the sun behind, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare
The stupa-shape of this temple just off the busy Lotus Road interchange drew us in. (iPhone6)

Buddhas in the Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas around the Stupa
We did a short circuit to pay our respects, …

Man and woman in conversation on a bench, Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

In Conversation
… and left the locals to their afternoon chat.

Dredging viewed through a fence, Fort, Colombo Sri Lanka

Development through the Fence
Colombo is a city of waterways: here we are looking towards the Indian Ocean, as we cross over the canal leading out of Beira Lake. (iPhone6)

Man and woman in conversation on stone steps, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

On the Steps
The bridge takes us straight onto Galle Face Green.

Vendor with pinwheels on Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Galle Face Beach and Green
There is debate as to how this 5 ha (12 acre) ocean-side urban park came by its name. The space was originally set aside so that the Dutch cannons could watch over the sea and was laid out as a promenade by the British in 1859. The building in the background is our destination for sunset drinks: the Galle Face Hotel – established in 1864.

Motion blur: Pinwheels spinning in the wind, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Pinwheels in the Wind
This urban park stretches 500 m (1,600 ft) along the coast, and is a popular destination for the city’s residents.

Colourful kite in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kite over Colombo
The sky overhead was full of colourful kites, and I was a little envious, as I’ve never succeeded in flying one.

Young girl in a hijab flying a kite, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

l Flying a Kite
Even with better-constructed versions than the ones I tried to make as a child, some people still had trouble getting them off the ground.

Kites in the sky over the Grand Hyatt, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kites over the Grand Hyatt

Family walking, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Family in the Park

Kite flying in front of Colombo Palaza Tower, Galle Face Green, Sri Lanka

Kite on Colombo Palaza Tower

Young girl in a fancy dress, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Trying to Fly
I enjoyed watching this little one as she tried to get her kite off the ground.

Woman in a hijab and a girl in a fancy dress, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

When the Grownups Take Over
The look on her face when mum stepped in to ‘help’ was priceless.

Spiderman kite in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Spiderman Flying Free
This was my favourite: I love how Spiderman is hanging onto his web.

Woman and a lifeguard tower in afternoon sun, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Woman and a Watchtower
The lowering sun turns the lifeguard chair liquid …

Sun behind the Sri Lankan flag, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Sunset in the Flag
… and sets fire to the Sri Lankan flag.

Palm Trees reflected in a glass tabletop, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

Palm Trees in the Table
The elegant Galle Face Hotel is one of Sri Lanka’s oldest and most popular hotels. We found a table in the outdoor courtyard. (iPhone6)

Two men, one in tartan one in hotel uniform, exiting Galle Face Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

Piper Playing
In true post-colonial glory, every evening two men come out of the hotel, …

Two men, one in tartan one in hotel uniform, at the Galle Face Hotel flagpole, Colombo Sri Lanka

The Flag is Down
… and as the pipes play and the sun sets, the Sri Lankan flag is lowered …

Men at the Galle Face Hotel flagpole after sunset, Colombo Sri Lanka

Evening Piper at the Fort
… and solemnly carried back indoors.

My visit happened to be on November 11th: Remembrance Day in my world, so even though I was in a very different place, while I was listening to a piper at sunset, I could only reflect on Laurence Binyon’s poem For the Fallen, and “…remember them.”

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaIt was a poignant end to a lovely afternoon.

Wishing you and yours

Safe Travels!

Photos: 11November2018