.jpg) Soldiers at Fort Nepean
Port Phillip, in Greater Melbourne, was once the most heavily fortified port in the Southern Hemisphere. Here at Fort Nepean, Australian soldiers watched over the city until after World War II. Point Nepean National Park is a special place with a long and visible history. It sits at the very edge of Melbourne, Victoria: the city wraps itself around Port Phillip, and from the southeast tip here at Point Nepean, you can almost throw a stone across the Victory Bight to the southwestern Melbourne suburb of Queenscliff.
For at least 6000 years, this has been part of the traditional country of the Bunurong People. A number of Aboriginal sites have been identified here, including coastal shell middens which might point to seasonal gathering-places for indigenous people – and certainly reflect their food-gathering practices.
I didn’t see any of these.
I did, however, see plenty of historic examples of European settlement in the region. There is scattered archeological evidence of pastoral and lime-burning practices dating to the 1830s. Shepherd Hut, which includes sections from 1845, is one of the earliest intact limestone building in Victoria and a rare example of employee housing.
The eponymous Quarantine Station was used from 1852 to 1979, and then became the home of an Army Officer Cadet School and the School of Army Health. Defensive structures dating from the 1880s through the 1940s are dotted around the park.
In more recent history, Australia lost Prime Minister Harold Holt here in December 1967. He went swimming at Cheviot Beach and was never seen again. Convention suggests he drowned; conspiracy theories speculate otherwise.
As well as being historically significant, the whole Port Nepean National Park area is a natural treasure. Although the wildlife isn’t as visible here as on Phillip Island – the peninsula just east of here (see: Sleepy Koalas and Moulting Penguins) – bandicoot and black wallaby live in these native bush lands. The park is criss-crossed with pleasant walks – and high enough to afford panoramic views in all directions. Only a one- to two-hour drive from the inner-city suburbs of Melbourne, these long-time Commonwealth and Defence lands were returned to the Victorian State Government after years of protracted political disputes and arguments about costs, including debates over who would pay for the clearance of unexploded ordnance.
Today, the Victorian Heritage Department says that “Point Nepean Defence and Quarantine Precinct is of archaeological, aesthetic, architectural, historical, scientific and social significance to the State of Victoria.”
It is well worth exploring.
.jpg) Sandy Track
From the carpark at the Gunners Cottage – built in the early 1900s – it is easy to pick up Coles Track towards Fort Nepean. .jpg) Myrtle-leaf Milkwort (Polygala Myrtifolia)
Native to South Africa, milkworts thrive in these sandy coastal soils.  Myrtle-leaf Milkwort Flower
As pretty as it is, the milkwort is listed by government agencies as an invasive weed. Through the Moonah Woodland
Coles Track was expanded to service a telephone wire to the Fort as part of Melbourne’s defence system during World War II. A number of German and Japanese destroyers, submarines, and other military craft, operated in Australian waters between 1940 and 1945, threatening the shipping industry and the war effort. Over the Peninsula
Water is visible on both sides: on the south we can see Bass Straight across the melaleuca trees. Cheviot Beach
These are wild waters. The beach is named for Victoria’s worst shipwreck, the SS Cheviot, which hit a reef in 1887, resulting in 35 of the 59 passengers drowning. Plaque : Cheviot Hill
Australia’s Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared while swimming in these rough waters in 1967. Surf off Cheviot Beach Container Ship
Bass Strait is a busy shipping lane. View from Cheviot Hill On Defence Road
No private vehicles are allowed this far into the National Park, but a periodic shuttle runs up and down for those who don’t want to join the walkers. Inside Fort Pearce
Tunnelled into the hillside, Fort Pearce was established in 1911. Underground
Part of Port Phillip’s defence system, the gun emplacements, underground ammunition storage, and tunnels at Fort Pearce were abandoned at the war’s end in 1945. Nature reclaimed them, and volunteers later spent years removing the sand and vegetation. Lookout below the Fort World War I Gun Emplacement
The gun pits for the Mk VII guns were built in 1911. The munitions magazine is between the pits. From Fort Pearce
The fort affords wonderful views back over the dramatic cliffs. Port Phillip Bay
In the other direction, afternoon sea fog hangs over Greater Melbourne. Looking back over Point Nepean
From Fort Nepean, you can look back over the National Park and Port Phillip Bay. Nepean Bay Beach
These are reasonably sheltered waters, popular for swimming – but has to be wary of the strong currents and rips. A Post in Nepean Bay
The colours and textures in the protected waters are stunning. Yellow-Flowered Succulent
My walk back towards Eagle’s Nest takes me through beautiful vegetation … Hideaway on the Cliffs
… and along sandy paths. The hill at Eagle’s Nest is now home to a large radar tower – but was once the site of Australia’s largest disappearing gun: built in 1889. On the Windy Cliffs
My last stop in the National Park was at the Quarantine Station, established in 1852 – in what was then a very remote location – to house new arrivals to Australia and protect the country from introduced diseases. It was the first permanent quarantine base in Victoria and one of the earliest and most substantial in Australia. (What a shame we don’t have something like this today!) The Quarantine Station
The station was closed for quarantine purposes in 1980, but you can still wander around the nearly-50 heritage-listed buildings. Although I only walked about eight kilometres, with the hills there was more altitude-gain than I am currently used to!
Fortunately, the charming Melbourne suburb of Portsea, right next door to the park, was once again open for cautious business after a three-week Covid-19 lockdown.
The only thing better than a history-rich hike is the coffee you reward yourself with afterwards.
Happy Walking!
Pictures: 19June2021
Posted in Australia,History,Landscapes,Nature,TravelTags: Australia,history,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Apples in an Orchard
With Lake Zurich in the background, the orchards around the Bächlihof Farm at Jona are a perfect spot for a Swiss National Day breakfast. (iPhone5) August 1st is Swiss National Day, and thanks to William Tell, Switzerland’s independence will always be associated with apples.
Who doesn’t know the story of that legendary Swiss hero? That mountain man, that peasant from Bürglen in the canton of Uri, who resisted the commands of a tyrannical overlord, and was then forced to shoot an apple from the head of his son. By shooting straight and true with his crossbow, he succeeded – and became a symbol of the struggle for political and individual freedom against autocracy. In some stories, he used a second arrow to kill the tyrant – sometimes named as Baron Gessler.
What a pity it never happened!
The events are said to have occurred on 18 November 1307 in Altdorf (German for ‘old village’). The first fleeting reference to William Tell is in a 1470 manuscript, and in 1550, historian Aegidius Tschudi elaborates on the tale and credits it as the start of the fight for Swiss independence.
But, representatives of the three forest cantons of Schwyz, Altdorf and Uri actually signed the original Oath of Rütli at the beginning of August in 1291 (see: In Search of William Tell). Resisting the rule of the House of Habsburg (Hapsburg), the fiercely independent people who had settled in these narrow Alpine valleys managed to cooperate among themselves and build the foundations of the Swiss Confederation (see: Swiss National Day).
Meanwhile, the apple story has appeared in the folklore of a number of nations, and a remarkably similar story to the William Tell tale was told in Denmark in the 12th century. But, don’t argue about that with a Swiss! Although Tell might have not been an actual person, his persona is central to Swiss identity. To this day, the Swiss pride themselves as people who value their independence and are prepared to stand against oppression.
Some years ago, we were staying with friends in Rapperswil-Jona on Lake Zurich (see: Lake Zurich) when Swiss National Day rolled around. It was, of course, a Public Holiday, and an ‘adventure farm’ nearby was putting on a breakfast in honour of the day. So, we started our day surrounded by orchards of apples and other fruits, and sampling the glorious pastries made from them.
Then, like any good Swiss, we went for a walk. We meandered pleasantly past typical low-country villages, medieval churches and ancient pilgrim pathways. In the charming harbour of Rapperswil-Jona, we boarded a boat, and motored two hours across Lake Zurich, to the city of Zurich itself. There, we lunched at a popular traditional Swiss restaurant in the Old Town and wandered the ancient streets before returning home by train.
Everything seems so delightfully close and easy to get to in Europe!
Apple Orchard
Safe under the bird-netting at the Bächlihof Farm, row after row of apples are trained up poles. Nashi Pears (Pyrus Pyrifolia)
Apples are not the only fruit trees growing on these extensive grounds. Damson Plums (Pyrus Pyrifolia)
I love the colour of these beautiful plums. They are made into Slivovitz (plum brandy) all over Europe. Apples
There are several apple types growing here: they all look delicious. Pears Schopf
The wooden function buildings at the Bächlihof Swiss Farmhouse are quite elegant in their simplicity. Cakes and Pastries
Inside Heugade, some of that fruit has been baked into wonderful pastries that are part of our National Day buffet breakfast. A Girl and a Pony
We might be only 40km from Zurich, but the walkways around Lake Zurich have a very rural/small-town feel. House in a Field
Busskirch is a small but historic village on the northern shore of the lake, within the local municipality of Rapperswil-Jona. St. Martin Busskirch
The early medieval parish church of St. Martin is popular for weddings because of its pastoral charm and idyllic location on the lake. St. Joseph
The largest religious group in Switzerland is Roman Catholic, and St. Martin Busskirch is one of the oldest churches here. Tidy Graveyard
The small Busskirch cemetery rests over the remains of a 1st to 4th century Roman building. Swiss graveyards are strictly controlled and immaculately maintained. To deal with lack of space, burial plots are on a 25-year lease. After that time, plots are emptied and readied for the next burial. Pink Japanese Anemone (Anemone Hupehensis)
I associate Switzerland with flowers: hedges, window boxes and garden beds – everywhere. Family Outing
A family of mute swans (Cygnus olor) wander through grass along the lake’s edge. Sculpture in the Garden
Our lake-side walk takes us past the University of Applied Sciences Rapperswil Campus (Fachhochschule Ostschweiz Campus RJ), where some beautiful, large sculptures rise out of the gardens of grass and sunflowers. Rusty Curves
I love the texture of the rusty metal, and the luscious curved lines. Holzbrücke Rapperswil-Hurden
This is the narrowest spot on the lake, and two bridges cross from here. This wooden pedestrian bridge between the Rapperswil and the village of Hurden stands in the place of bridges dating back to time immemorial. Prehistoric timber piles discovered on the other side of the lake date back to 1523 BC. Under the Bridge
The other lake crossing here is more modern in conception: the Seedamm, is part bridge and part artificial causeway. Waterfront
We, however, are crossing the lake the long way: by boat. On the harbour, we get a lovely view of the ships in the port, the beautiful old buildings dating back to the 1200s, and the castle at the top of the hill that we walked around on another day (see: The Roses of Rapperswil). Rapperswil Waterfront
On the water, we get a whole different view of that wonderful medieval architecture that gives the little city its character. Hotel Schwanen is in a building dating to 1233. The Curti House to the left, dates back to the 16th century, with mosaics and paintings added in 1894. Tourist Boats on Lake Zurich
We are not the only boat on the lake. Cottage on Lake Zurich
Our boat makes a short stop on the opposite side of the lake … Woman on the Waterfront
… and passes a number of other piers … Limmat River
… before cruising into the river outfall at the southern part of the city of Zurich. Limmat River and the Waterfront
The church clock of St. Peter is the largest tower clock face in Europe, with bells dating to 1880. Consecrated in 1706, St. Peter was the first church in Zurich built under Protestant rule. The Grossmünster and the Hans Waldmann Statue
Die Altstadt (“the old town”) of Zürich dates before 1893, and every brick has a story to tell. Foreground here is the 1937 equestrian monument to Hans Waldmann (1435 – 1489). He was a Swiss military leader and mayor of Zurich. In the background, we see the Romanesque-style Grossmünster, a Protestant church built between 1100 and 1220. Dolce&Gabbana
The historic city houses some very up-market shops! Freunde für Immer – Friends Forever
All over Europe, bridges strain under the weight of locks put in place by friends and lovers. ‘Guardian Angel’
In the Zurich railway station, a piece by French-American sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle watches over us.  Back on the balcony at the home of our hosts in Rapperswil-Jona, nature treated us to a late afternoon rainbow over the lake, and the municipality treated us to fire works after dark.
A full – and very Swiss – National Day indeed!
Pictures: 01August2014
Hindu Priest Making Offerings
Time and space have a different meaning on the banks of the river named for the Sacred Mother Ganga. Every nook and cranny along the ghats of Varanasi houses a priest or acolyte or religious ascetic, engaged in meditation or study or constructing ritual offerings. I was already in love with India when I made my first visit to Varanasi. That magical northern city exceeded my already-high expectations and left an indelible impression.
The spiritual capital of India, Varanasi (Benares, Banaras, Kashi), sits on the left bank of the Ganga (Ganges) in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh. Dating back to the 11th century B.C, it is one of the seven sacred Hindu cities. We first arrived at the ghats, the stairs leading down to Ganges, in the dry heat of the afternoon. The air seemed to vibrate with electricity, and in this holiest part of the holiest of cities, it was easy to believe that this energy can infuse you with its special magic.
Varanasi presents a unique combination of physical, metaphysical and supernatural elements. According to the Hindu mythology, Varanasi liberates soul from human body to the ultimate…. a dip in the holy Ganges …is believed to absolve one from all sins.
Certainly, the Varanasi ghats attract a range of people – most with lifestyles very different from my own. I found myself slowing down and musing about the nature of human existence and endeavour. As I watched people engaging in their spiritual practices, I had a visceral understanding of how different our perspectives on the world, and our place in it, really can be.
It was a long time ago now. If there is an up-side to our Covid-closed borders and seemingly endless lock-downs, it is the time to revisit old photos and relive memories.
Of course, as I’ve said before, going back to old photos is always risky! I’ve reprocessed these, as when I took them I was not using Lightroom. They were taken on an old camera that was always a bit ‘soft’ on focus, and some of my settings were questionable. But, I hope they convey something of the pulsating heat, and the magical spirit of the place.
Revisiting them certainly put a smile on my face.
North Indian Fields
As we ride the rails southeast from Delhi to Varanasi across the fertile Indus-Gangetic Plain, I’m reminded of how much space there still is in the second-most populous country in the world. Grain Stacks
Indian agriculture is labour-intensive, employing over 40% of the country’s workforce. Schoolgirls
By contrast to the open countryside, the streets of Varanasi are narrow and full of daily life, … On the Ghats
… and the buildings on the ghats stretch off shoulder-to-shoulder into the hazy distance. Boats on Assi Ghat
The ghats are haphazard, and dirty – and quite magical. Going from south to north, Assi Ghat is the first of the 88 or more. Boats on the Ganges
The heat and the smells envelope me as I watch life unfold. Three Boats on the Ganges Gangamahal Ghat
The unique old buildings add to the feeling of timelessness. The Ganga Mahal (palace) was built in 1830 CE by the Narayan dynasty. Man in a Niche : Tulsi Ghat
Every niche houses a mystic … God in a Niche
… or a sacred shrine. Priest Making Offerings
A bit further along, I came upon a young Hindu priest constructing the complex offerings to the Mother. We silently acknowledged each other, and he went back to his work as I watched and photographed. Burning Incense Flowers and Smoke
The offerings contain a number of elements – which were later explained to me by a lovely young woman in Haridwar (see: Street Scenes and Portraits). Hindu Prayer Book Hindu Priest
The process continued, and the candle and incense burned. The kumbh (copper pot) sits ready with sacred water from the filthy river. Pilgrims on the Ghats
Everywhere I look, there are pilgrims and sadhus with their swags; who knows how far across India they have travelled to be here. Candy Colours on Vaccharaja Ghat Everyday Life Boats tied Up
All along the cluttered waterfront, dilapidated wooden boats wait for work. Pastel Paint
I am captivated by the colours … Rough Wood
… and the textures. Buffalo on the Ghat
Buffalo wander freely … Cows on the Ghats
… and cows sit contentedly at the water’s edge. Buffalo in the Ganges
This stretch of river near the cremation ghats is full of buffalo escaping the heat, … Boys Splashing in the Ganges
… and the local children join them. Ablutions
To bathe in the Ganges is to wash away your sins – making it an attractive proposition in spite of the unholy pollution of the water. Clay Cups
This was the trip that I learned how wonderful masala chai – made with buffalo milk – truly is. Like the milk and water in this picture, it is served up in little single-use clay cups: when you finish, you smash your container on the ground. Dog on the Ghats
They told me that the masala chai here at Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat was the best: I can’t disagree! Shiva Shrine
I sat in the shade with my spiced tea, marvelling at the confusion of the colours … Indian Woman in Red
… and the welcoming warmth of the smiles. The Chai Wallah’s Daughter
Education is compulsory and free in India for children aged 6 to 14, but opportunities are still limited, depending on the class you are born into. Revitalised by my rich tea, I continued my explorations (watch this space!).
Given the opportunity, I would go back in a shot. Magic. Just magic. People say that there is something in the air in Varanasi. Certainly, my impressions of the city have never left me.
Until next time,
‘Let it be so.’
Photos: 09April2010
Posted in India,Religious Practice,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,India,religion,Religious Practice,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Varanasi,worship
Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
Could a wildflower be more elegant? The Sierra lily, also known by the common name Kelley’s lily, grows up to two meters tall in the wetlands of the High Sierra. There is a special magic about alpine flowers in their natural habitats!
They are ruggedly unique, suited to their particular alpine environments, and yet delicate in their beauty. Whether it is in the Swiss Alps (see: Rainy Alpine Hillsides) or the Snowy Mountains of Australia (eg: Alpine Flowers and Summer Snow), there is something uplifting about fields and meadows of seasonal wildflowers.
So, I was thrilled when a friend of mine wanted to organise a week or two of wildflower photo-walks near her homes in the Eastern Sierras while I happened to be in North America. When the time came, our other intended photography-companions ended up elsewhere, so it was just the two of us following the hiking trails and seeking out the sights of Mono and Madera Counties, high in the mountains of California (see: Waters and Wildflowers).
Of course, you can never predict the best time for wildflowers, as they depend on the elevation, the depth of the winter snows and length of the winter season, and the timing and generosity of the spring showers. Still, California’s tourism trades on “blooms” and advertises the flowers of Mono County as arriving late May, hitting their peak late in June, and lasting through July. Hedging our bets, we’d planned my trip for mid-July, and the flowers did not disappoint.
We were based in the town of Mammoth Lakes, and had spent the morning hiking and photographing in the Devils Postpiles National Monument (see: Devils Postpiles and Rainbow Falls). From there, it was a short drive to the Red’s Meadow Area of Inyo National Forest. This is access point for the Agnew Wildflower Loop, an easy one kilometre (0.6 m) loop through lush, upper-montane grasses, and a variety of wildflowers.
When I’d had my fill of lilies in the Agnew Meadow, we drove the twenty minutes across to the base of the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, and took the gondola up the hill to see what was blooming there.
Agnew Meadow is at 2316 m (7600 ft) elevation; the base of Mammoth Mountain is 2743 m (9000 ft), and the top of the Panorama Gondola is 3369 m (11,053 ft). Naturally, flowers growing so high above the tree line are going to be compact and low to the ground, and therefore less ‘showy’ than the Sierra lilies on the Agnew Wildflower Loop. I loved them anyway – but was disappointed not to be able to get names for most of them!
Join me for some summer blooms in the Eastern Sierras:
Agnes Meadows Wildflower Walk
This area is known for larkspur, lupine, lilies, columbine, and Indian paintbrush – some of which we didn’t see. Sierra Lily (Lilium Kelleyanum)
To my mind, the beautiful blooms of the Kelley’s lilies more than made up for any missing flowers in the mix! A Single Bloom
The large, bell-shaped, yellow to orange flower has six long stamens hoping to attract swallowtail butterflies for pollination. An Inflorescence
Each lily stem can produce up to 25 golden flowers. Swamp Onion (Allium Validum)
The common swamp onion – also known as wild onion, Pacific onion, and Pacific mountain onion – is native to the west coast mountains of North America. Common Yarrow – Achillea Millefolium
A member of the aster family, the tall, white yarrow has a long blooming season. Monkshood – Aconitum Columbianum
I had trouble distinguishing the monkshood from the larkspur and lupine, but – based on the leaves – I’m pretty sure I’m right about this one. Golden Buttercups – Ranunculus Occidentalis Yosemite Onion – Allium Yosemitense
Or another swamp onion? I’m going by the colour, but to my eye, it could be either – or something else entirely! So Pretty – So Poisonous!
The California corn lily or California false hellebore (Veratrum californicum) is a tall, pretty, and extremely poisonous plant native to these hight mountain meadows. Over the Mountains
As we drive out of the meadow and back to Mammoth for lunch before ascending the mountain, we get views over the rocky crags and pine forests. Panorama Gondola
The cable car up Mammoth Mountain takes us from 2743 m (9000 ft) to 3369 m (11,053 ft). Summer Ski Slopes
The ride up the hill affords some great views … Through the Gondola Station
… before landing us at the top station. Gondolas on the Mountain
The mountain rises high above the township below, … Summer Snow
… and the views extend in all directions. Dirt Bike Riders on the Slope
Like many other ski resorts, Mammoth Mountain has gone to some lengths to attract summer visitors. Low Rise Alpine Flowers
I loved the fuzzy, curling leaves on these little yellow flowers. I think they are one of the many hymenoxys genus, but I can’t find an exact match. Tiny Succulents
In this high and arid environment, plants need to be low and compact to survive. Lakes Basin from the Mountain Sunny Yellow Flowers
Another lovely yellow flower; probably another hymenoxys. Purple Flowers in the Gravel
This tiny little flower reminds me of the monkeyflower group – but again I could find no match on line. Tiny Flowers Standing Tall Tiny White Alpine Flowers
I think these pretty little flowers are ‘Moonbeams’ (Clematis x cartmanii). Cycles at the Top of Mammoth Mammoth Sculpture
After descending Mammoth Mountain, we pause to admire the giant mammoth statue outside the Visitors’ Center. Fresh air, alpine walks and wildflowers –
Who could ask for more?
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 17July2013
Museum and Mountains
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman is like a symbol of Muscat, or of Oman as a whole: modern architecture based on traditional Omani Arabic principles, surrounded by an oasis of lush gardens and rugged, arid hills – and watched over by medieval Portuguese forts. Muscat, the Sultanate of Oman’s capital and most populous city, has been known as an important trading seaport since at least the early 1st century. Hemmed in by the rugged Western Al Hajar Mountains, the sheltered port city lies on the Arabian Sea along the Gulf of Oman, where the waters lead east to the Indian Ocean, and west to the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf.
The original tribal dwellers of this strategically important location were challenged by the Neo-Persian Empire in the 3rd century CE, but the influence of the Al-Azd tribal Arab dynasty continued to grow until the First Imamate was established in the 9th century. The Portuguese conquered Muscat in 1507, built fortresses – which still stand – to protect their trading routes, and maintained a hold on the city against challenges from Persia and the Ottoman Turks for over a century.
By the early 1600s, the balance of power shifted again, from the Persians and the Portuguese to local Omanis, but infighting and conflict continued until the emergence of the Al Bu Sa‘id dynasty in 1749. This family has ruled Oman ever since.
Oman might be the oldest independent state in the Arab world, but it is a bundle of contradictions. The country is an absolute monarchy, and although the current ruler Haitham bin Tarik Al Said is described as “outward-looking and Western-oriented”, as with any autocracy, civil and human rights can be ignored with impunity.
But, the country has come a long way. Until the overthrow of Sultan Said bin Taimur, who ruled from 1932-1970, the country was closed to any outside influences. In spite of considerable proceeds from the export of oil, the people suffered high mortality rates. There were only three schools, the literacy rate was 5%, and there were only 10 kilometres (6 mi) of paved roads. By contrast, in 2010, after forty years of rule by his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the United Nations ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development.
This development is not unbridled, however. While new buildings look to safety and function, they are also expected to conform to design and height restrictions, and must be in “harmony with the elements of Islamic and Arab Omani architecture”. As a consequence, Muscat’s urban landscape consists of modern low-lying white buildings that blend seamlessly with historical architecture and the landscape.
Oman’s return to modern development and an outward-looking economy make it a comfortable place to visit. Tourism is the fastest-growing industry, and provided one respects local rules and traditions, the country feels safe and hassle-free.
Certainly, Muscat was a pleasure to explore, with plenty to see.
Prayer Hall
Our first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around the magnificent interior. This intricate 21 tonne carpet took four years to make, and the 14 metres (46 feet) tall Italian-made central chandelier includes 600,000 Swarovski crystals. Inside the Mosque Muhammad al-Amin
We then spent time exploring the slightly more modern marble-clad Muhammad al-Amin Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces). Sultan Qaboos Port
Muscat clings to the waterfront. The Muttrah Corniche follows the outlines of the Sultan Qaboos Port. The wealth here is evidenced in the two royal yachts sitting in the harbour. Entry to Mutrah Souq
Regardless of vagaries of spelling, the Muttrah Souk is a delight to wander around. Snuff Tins
It is one of the oldest marketplaces in the Arab world, and although there are some products aimed at tourists, it clearly is a local market. Trinkets, Jewels and Gems
Every square inch is full of fascinating products, and the while the shopkeepers are friendly, they weren’t intrusive. Traditional Glass Mosaic Lanterns Souk Corridor
It was hot outside, but the wide lanes of the souk were actually relatively cool and restful – and the whole place smelled delightfully of Frankincense. Gold Finery
There is some real money in this city! I settled for a couple of scarves. Mutrah Fort
Back on the waterfront, we found a local place to eat lunch under the watchful eye of the tower built by the Portuguese in the 1580s as part of the city fortifications. Waterfront Fish Sculpture The Corniche
The roadway along the waterfront is flanked with beautifully tiled walkways which culminate in parks on the points. Dhow in the Harbour
Oman takes great pride in its boatbuilders, and traditional wooden dhows are still used for fishing and tourism. Riyam Incense Burner
High above a waterfront park, a watchtower that looks like an incense burner was built in 1990 to celebrate Oman’s 20th National Day. View over Old Muscat
From a hillside vantage point, we look over the forts and buildings of the old city. At the Sidab Women’s Group
A bit further up the hill, we stopped in at the Sidab Women’s Sewing Group, a poverty alleviation initiative, where we admired local textiles … Kahwa at the Sidab Womens Group
… and of course, were offered coffee. In Oman, coffee – kahwa or qahwa in Arabic – is blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon, and served with fresh dates as a ritual ‘welcome’. I loved it! Minaret and Mountains
Back on the road, we head into Old Muscat … Al Alam Palace Gate
… past the colourful gate to the old palace, … White Wall
… and past classic white-washed walls. Al-Mirani Fort
The old city is separated from the rest of modern Muscat by coastal mountains – and Portuguese walls and forts. Nubian Ibex (Capra Ibex Nubiana)
Outside the Bait Al Zubair Museum, we find colourful models of the native desert-dwelling goats … Relief Model
… and a model of the old city as it would have looked in 1625 when the encircling walls were finished. Omani Khanjar
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman was established in 2013 … Carved Arch
… as a showcase for the country’s cultural heritage … Bronze Age Magan Boat
… and history, back to the earliest settlement. Omani Door Handle
Beautifully carved wooden doors and their heavy ornamentation feature everywhere in the country. Desert Jewels – The National Museum Sunset over Muscat
For a different perspective on the city, I took a sunset cruise in an old dhow (Watch this Space!). You can just see the incense burner and city fortifications against the darkening sky.  Certainly a culturally rich and fascinating place!
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 20 and 26October2019
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