Aerial view of Uluru under the strut of a small plane, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru under the Strut
Glowing red in the afternoon light, that magic sandstone monolith at the heart of Australia rises up 348 m (1142 ft) out of the surrounding plains – and extends even further underground.

In these days of rolling lockdowns and seriously curtailed travel, flying feels like a thing of the past.

But, last year in October, I managed to get on not one, but two different airplanes in the space of a few days.

Like most travellers with international itineraries, I was flattened in 2020 when Covid-19 pulled the rug out from under all my plans, and left me – and everyone else in Australia – self-distancing at home. Now, eighteen months later, international borders are still effectively closed and interstate travel within the country is severely restricted.

But, there have been small windows of opportunity, and I managed to squeeze a package deal to the Ayers Rock Resort in the red heart of Australia into one of these openings (see: Weekly Wanders Yulara).

It’s a three-hour and twenty-minute flight from Sydney to Ayers Rock/Connellan Airport in Yulara, Northern Territory: it is easy to forget how big Australia actually is! It felt strange walking around the unusually quiet Kingsford Smith Airport, mindfully keeping my mask on and skirting around others at a respectful ‘social’ distance. Of course, once on the airplane, we were packed in like sardines, as per normal on a low-cost airline! Deplaning took forever, as everyone had to ‘prove’, via bank statements, etc, that they hadn’t been in any declared areas of concern.

This part of the Red Centre – the vast, red, sandy plain in central Australia –  is formally recognised by UNESCO World Heritage for both its natural and cultural values. It has been home to the Indigenous Anangu people since Dreamtime, and features in countless ancient stories they have handed down explaining the origins and nature of the “spectacular geological formations” that are found here. For, rising out of a red landscape that is flat and empty out to the horizons in all directions, are two incredible ancient rock formations: Uluru, the 348 m (1,142 ft) high sandstone monolith, and Kata Tjuta, the 36 domes of conglomerated sand, pebbles, and cobbles.

Both these timeless and magnificent formations are contained within the Uluru-Kata Tjuta (formerly the Uluru (Ayers Rock – Mount Olga)) National Park, which is jointly managed by the Anangu people – the traditional owners – and Parks Australia

It was just after lengthy lockdowns and the resort was quiet without the usual international visitors. The Anangu Cultural Centre was off-limits to us ‘outsiders’ to protect the small Indigenous community from possible infection. So, I booked everything else I could get my hands on. I didn’t have to think twice about taking advantage of the scenic flights available over the area! After all, it had taken me a long time to get there – it might be a long time before I was back.

On the day of my arrival, I wandered through the Field of Lights. The next day, I explored the resort, taking in a talk on bush tucker and other activities (Watch this space!), and went for a sunset camel ride. I watched the sunrise and walked into the Walpa Gorge in Kata Tjuta, and I planned to walked around the base of Uluru the day after my sunset flight. (Watch this space!)

It is amazing how different these magnificent rock formations are in every light and from every angle! Join me in the air:

Young pilot standing outside a brightly decorated Ayers Rock Scenic Flight airplane, NT Australia

Pilot Chris
Chris welcomes us to the brightly decorated, Australian-manufactured, Gippsland Aeronautics G8.

Young pilot at the door of an Ayers Rock Scenic Flight airplane, NT Australia

Safety Briefing
Before we board, Chris shows us how to operate the doors in an emergency.

Ayers Rock Scenic Flights Cessna, Ayers Rock (Uluru) Airport tarmac.

Ayers Rock Scenic Flights
I was originally booked on the little Cessna sitting on the Ayers Rock (Uluru) Airport tarmac.

Helicopters at tAyers Rock (Uluru) Airport, NT Australia

Helicopters at the Airport
It’s that time of day: all the scenic flights are out. After we clear the runway, two helicopters take off below us.

Aerial view of Uluru in the evening, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru
The 500+ million year-old sandstone monolith, known variously as Uluru and Ayers Rock, rises dramatically out of the vast red desert plain.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta
Chris wants to make the most of the last available light, so we make our way to Kata Tjuta – 25 km (16 mi) east of Uluru – first. (iPhone6)

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuṯa Domes
In Pitjantjatjara, one of the two principle Aboriginal languages in this region, Kata Tjuṯa means ‘many heads’.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta and Uluru
The 36 conglomerate domes that make up what is also called the Olgas were formed roughly 600 million years ago and stretch across almost 22 square kilometres (8.37 sq mi). Uluru looks small in the distance.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuṯa / Mount Olga
I had enjoyed sunrise over these domed rock formations and walked in amongst them that very morning (see: Walpa Gorge); they look very different from the air.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta under the Wing
The local Aboriginal Anangu people have lived in this area for more than 22,000 years, and since 1995 Kata Tjuta is being used again for cultural ceremonies. There are many Dreamtime legends (creation stories) told here, but because this is a place of sacred ‘men’s business’, most of them are not disclosed to outsiders – particularly women.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Shadows on Kata Tjuta
The light drops quickly, and the shapes of the boulders soften as we move away.

Aerial view of Uluru under the strut of a small plane, Yulara NT Australia

Golden Light
When we turn back towards Uluru, the lowering sun sets fire to the wings of our plane, …

Aerial view of Uluru under the wing of a small plane, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru in Colour
… and turns the red plain purple.

Waves of red sand and rock from the air, Yulara NT Australia

The Red Centre
Between 500 and 400 million years ago, this whole area was covered by a sea. It is easy to imagine, as we look at the waves of arid sand and rock below.

Aerial view of Uluru, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru in the Afternoon Sun
All of Uluru is sacred to the local Pitjantjatjara, but some parts are more secret than others: out of respect, pilots do not overfly certain parts of the rock.

Aerial view of Uluru, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru in the Last Light
As we fly closer to the darkening rock, we can see the closed Aboriginal community of Mutitjulu behind it.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa at sunset, Yulara NT Australia

Like a Dream
In the other direction, Kata Tjuta fades into the clouds …

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa at sunset, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta from the Air
… and silhouettes against the darkening sky.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa at sunset, Yulara NT Australia

Sunset
OK – it’s not the best sunset shot I’ve ever made, but it’s the best ‘sunset over Kata Tjuṯa from the air’ shot I could manage!

Aerial view of Uluru from Ayers Rock Airport, Yulara NT Australia

Twilight over Yulara and Uluru

Ayers Rock Airport runway from the cockpit, Yulara NT Australia

Touchdown!
All too soon, it is getting dark, and we are back on the ground.

I was still floating on air when I got back to the resort in time for dinner.

Text: Happy TravelsI do love small planes – and these rocks are magnificent.

Just magic!

 

Photos: 25October2020

Goatherders silhouetted at sundown, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherds at Sundown
Every day, Kara boys and men bring the goats back into the Dus Village compound for the night. The older males carry their AK-47s to protect the precious herds against wild animals and marauding rival tribes.

Life in for the semi-nomadic Kara (Karo) people in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley is simple – simple, but not easy.

There is no electricity and no running water. The people live in dark, circular huts made from sticks and grass. Tradition dictates one’s place and ritual determines one’s behaviour. Every day, the women grind sorghum on large stones to make meal for the staple diet of porridge. And, every day, the boys and men look after the precious goats.

Tsetse flies, which spread African Trypanosomiasis – or ‘sleeping sickness’, are prevalent in the region. So, the Kara focus on goats and sheep, which are less vulnerable to the illness than larger livestock. They do keep a few cattle, but that meat is reserved for special occasions.

The Kara are a small group who maintain friendly, symbiotic relations with the neighbouring and loosely-related Hamar, Banna, Dassanetch, and Arbore tribes. However, they cultivate ongoing animosities with the Mursi and Nyangatom: the Nyangatom live across the Omo River, occupying territory the Kara believe is theirs, and bloody skirmishes are not uncommon.

For this reason, and for the protection of the herds, every young man must own an AK-47 before he is allowed to marry. He is expected to demonstrate his ability to protect his village, his family, and the herd that represents his wealth.

Like the other Omo Valley ethnic tribes, the Kara are happy to earn money from tourists who come to photograph their creative body- and face-paint, and to learn about their daily practices and customs. But, the three little Kara villages are hard to get to, even by Ethiopian standards. Grand Holidays Ethiopia organised and set up a mobile campsite, complete with generators and portable showers, so that our group – travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour – could stay several days in the heart of Kara territory in comfort.

This proximity had allowed us to visit the largest Kara settlement, Dus Village, a number of times. Sadly, it was our last full day there. After a morning of portraiture (see: Tribal Portraits), I was off to make a second attempt at capturing the daily activity of bringing the goats home at sundown (see: Men and Goats and Dust).

Join me in the dust of the plateau above the beautiful Omo River:

A Kara man with an AK-47 and a baby goat watches a herd, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Gun and a Baby Goat
The gentle way in which this man is carrying a baby kid belies his status as a proven warrior: his feathered clay cap tells us he has been responsible for a kill of an enemy or dangerous animal in recent times.

Kara Warrior with a Kid
I don’t know why this kid is being so tenderly carried, when the rest of the herd walks.

Young Kara goatherd in golden afternoon dust, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Goatherd
A young lad in body paint uses a switch …

Kara goats in golden afternoon dust, Dus Village Ethiopia

Herding Goats
… to keep the precious herd moving.

Young Kara goatherd in a striped wrap, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Goatherd in Stripes
Barefoot and bare chested, the young goatherds in their body paint and wrap skirts …

Young Kara goatherd in a striped wrap, Dus Village Ethiopia

Young Kara Goatherd
… keep the goat herd together and compact.

A Kara man with an AK-47 watches a goat herd, Dus Village Ethiopia

Warrior with Goats and an AK-47
In spite of the prevalence of Kalashnikovs – and warriors who have demonstrated their deadliness – I never felt remotely at risk with these people.

A Kara man with an AK-47 watches a goat herd, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd with a Kalashnikov

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Silhouetted Goatherd
As the afternoon sun drops in the sky, …

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd at Sundown
… the goats and the goatherd are silhouetted in the last light.

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd and Goats
The late afternoon sun creates interesting lighting effects.

Goats in the dust on the plateau, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats in the Dust
The animals are quite large, and many have beautiful markings.

Silhouetted goats and goatherd with his gun and stool in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd with his a Stool
The men in the Omo Valley all carry their small stools carved from acacia wood; these are also used as headrests when the men are out with the flocks.

Goats on the plateau, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats on the Plateau
Looking back away from the sun, the herd is bathed in afternoon light.

Silhouetted goats at sunset, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats at Sunset

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats like Scherenschnitten
As a child, I was fascinated by scherenschnitten: German scissor-cut outlines in black paper. As I lay in the dust, watching the herd silhouetted against the evening sky, I was reminded of that traditional art.

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Guns and Goats
The evening sun sends its last rays over the horizon.

A goatherd with his gun and stool in the dust, Dus Village Ethiopia

Twilight in the Dust
A stool and gun – what more could a warrior want?

Silhouetted goats and goatherds on the plateau, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goat Herders on the Plateau
The last light angles over the herd on the plateau above the village, …

Water tower silhouetted by sunset on the Omo River, Ethiopia

Water Tower
… setting a red glow behind the village water tower.

Text: Keep it Simple

I was sad to farewell these beautiful people and to pack up my wonderful tent in the dappled jungle clearing …

But, while we were off on another adventure tomorrow, the Kara men and boys would – once again – be looking after their goats and sheep.

Until next time …

Photos: 21October2018

  • […] Thought to number about 30,000 people across South Sudan and Ethiopia, the Nyangatom have a reputation for being aggressive, and conflicts between themselves and neighbouring tribes are not uncommon. The village I visited on the west bank of the Omo River was on contested lands that was reputedly taken from the Kara people in bloody battle (see: Goats and Guns at Sunset). […]ReplyCancel

Bryggen wharf from across the harbour, Bergen Norway

Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf
The colourful wooden boathouses that make up the historic harbour district of Bergen, Norway, are immediately recognisable.

It’s hard to imagine a more dramatic location for a most picturesque city!

Surrounded by steep, snowcapped mountains with glaciers tucked within them, and sliced by deep fjords and fast-running rivers, historic Bergen has long Viking roots and rich Hanseatic heritage. The iconic medieval harbour district Bryggen is immediately recognisable with its colourful collection of UNESCO-listed wooden buildings.

Norway’s second-largest city and one of North Europe’s oldest ports, the city was said to have been founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre on a Viking site, but a trading settlement was already established here in the 1020s or 1030s.

For a period in the early 13th century, Bergen functioned as the capital of the Norwegian kingdom, and it served as a major commercial hub for the Hanseatic League (1356 – 1862) of merchants from Northern Germany. The sale of stockfish (predominantly cod) from Northern Norway made the city an important Northern Europe trading centre for centuries. The Finnegården, one of the more than 60 conserved wooden buildings on the Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf now houses the Hanseatic Museum, which recreates life at the time and explores the legacy.

For me, Bergen was the last stop of a two-week cruise around the edges of Europe, starting in Barcelona (see: In the Land of Flamenco and Gaudí). Unfortunately, my husband was called back to Australia, and had to disembark at our penultimate port of Amsterdam (see: Watercolours), leaving me to complete our itinerary in Norway on my own. 

Thankfully, I already had tours in Bergen (and beyond) organised. The city was easy to navigate and enjoy – in spite of rather inclement spring weather: it sits at 60° North – less than one degree south of Anchorage, Alaska!

Join me for a rainy walk and bus trip through parts of the historic harbour, a bus ride to the vantage-point of nearby Queen Maud’s Outlook, and a funicular railway trip up Mt Fløyen, a “city mountain” in the heart of Bergen.

Looking south across Bergen Harbour, Norway

Bergen Harbour
Vågen Bay is a busy place, and home to a wide range of private, public transport, and commercial vessels.

Bryggen wharf from across the harbour, Bergen Norway

Bryggen Wharf
As our bus turns towards the Nordnes Peninsula, we get views across the harbour to those well-preserved and reconstructed UNESCO-listed boathouses of medieval Bryggen.

Bergen Harbour, Norway.

Bergen Waterfront
Under rainy clouds and behind the boathouses near the fishmarkets, we can see the tower of the stone Holy Cross ChurchKorskirken – opened in 1150.

Clarion Collection Hotel Havnekontoret, Bergen Norway

Hotel Havnekontoret
The waterfront is lined with historic buildings, including the 1920s neo-classical stone Clarion Collection hotel.

Buekorps Museum building from the bus, Bergen, Norway

Buekorps Museum from the Bus
The Buekorps, literally “Bow Corps” or “Archery Brigade” are a Norwegian regional youth organisation founded in the 1850s. The building that now houses the museum was originally built in the 1500, but damaged by fires several times in the 1600s. The current model was built after the 1702 Bergen fire. (iPhone6)

View over the North Sea from Queen Maud

Over the North Sea
Our bus picks up a connector highway, and we tunnel trough part of the neighbouring mountain before climbing up to a lookout in Helleveien, where views extend across the North Sea

Askøy Bridge from Queen Maud

Askøy Bridge
… and over to the long suspension bridge: the Askøybrua across the Byfjorden. Our vantage point is Queen Maud’s view, named for a Norwegian Queen who loved this spot.

Kjøttbasaren, Bergen, Norway

Kjøttbasaren
Back down in the old port, we walk along tiled and cobbled streets, and through ancient painted wooden and brick buildings. To me, this one looks like a traditional gingerbread house! Built between 1874-1876, the neo-Romanesque Kjøttbasaren was originally called Bergen’s Bazaar and was used to control the marketing of food. Today, the building – which was extensively renovated in 2012 – houses restaurants and a Starbucks.

The connected wooden buildings of Finnegårdsgaten, Bergen Norway

Finnegårdsgaten
The beautifully renovated attached buildings opposite house a traditional restaurant, a four-star hotel, and part of the Hanseatic Museum.

Guide with a map in the Hanseatic Museum, Bergen Norway

Inside the Hanseatic Museum
Our guide in the Hanseatic Museum points out the trading routes that the German guild of merchants dominated between the 13th and 17th centuries. In 1360 they created an overseas office here at Bryggen, …

Tourists in the Hanseatic Museum, Bergen Norway

In an Ancient Room
… and built themselves a home-away-from home.

Hanging pot, Hanseatic Museum, Bergen Norway

Hanging Pot
The dark wooden rooms of the museum are filled with artefacts to give us an insight into how these Medieval merchants lived and worked, and the mark they left on Bergen.

The Fløibanen entry, Bergen Norway

The Fløibanen
After lunch, the cloudy skies fulfil their promise of rain, and I make my way to the bottom of Bergen’s funicular railway.

Bergen houses and a tunnel and a roadway from the Fløibanen, Bergen Norway

On the Fløibanen
The cable train passes tall narrow houses and tunnels under roadways as it rises steeply up the mountainside.

A rainy Bergen from the Fløibanen, Norway

Bergen from the Fløibanen
We get some lovely views over the city – in spite of the rain – as we climb Mt Fløien.

Rainy view over Bergen from Mt Fløyen, Norway

Bergen from Mt Fløyen
Even the drizzling rain from low-lying clouds can’t diminish the view from the top.

Directional Signpost, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Directional Signpost
The highest point on Mt Fløyen – one of the seven peaks surrounding Bergen – is just under 400 metres (1,310 feet).

Wooden goathouse in the rain, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Cashmere Goathouse in the Rain
A number of walking trails – each taking about an hour – wind up to the top of the mountain where you can treat yourself at the Fløistuen shop and café.

Cashmere Goat in the Goathouse, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Cashmere Goat in the Goathouse
The presence of a number of goats on the peak, …

Troll in the playground, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Troll in the Playground
… as well as an entire Troll Forest, makes Mt Fløyen family-friendly. Trolls are an iconic feature of Old Norse folklore, fairy tales, and mythology.

Kindergarten children and teacher in hi-viz vests, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Like Herding Cats!
A class of local kindergarten children in their hi-viz vests were on an outing in the rain at the top of the hill.

A rainy Bergen from the Fløibanen, Norway

Train Down in the Rain
From top to bottom, the ride on Scandinavia’s only cable railway takes about six minutes. Naturally, the views going down are just as spectacular as they were riding up!

Lille Øvregaten Street, Bergen Norway

Lille Øvregaten
Back on solid – albeit wet and slippery – ground,  it is easy to see how fire could tear through this city so often: the cobbled streets are winding and narrow, and packed with steep timber buildings.

Gamlehaugen from a bus window, Bergen Norway

Gamlehaugen
We board our bus again, and take a drive around the outskirts of the city, where we catch glimpses of Gamlehaugen, the residence of the Norwegian Royal Family.

Salome sculpture, Clarion Hotel Admiral in Bergen, Norway

Salome
Outside the harbour-front Clarion Hotel Admiral in Bergen, Salome, a sculpture by Norwegian artist Per Ung (1933-2013), dances in a fountain in the rain.

Tourists o the Wet Waterfront, Bryggen, Norway

Tourists on the Wet Waterfront
Our bus passes through Bryggen on the way back to the cruise boat, …

Bryggen Boathouses, Bergen Norway

Bryggen Boathouses from the Bus
… giving me one last look and the heritage-listed wharf for the day.

Although I had to disembark my lovely ship, I had another day to enjoy in this picturesque old city.

Text: Happy Rambling

Now that I had an idea of the lay of the land, I was quite looking forward to exploring more on foot.

Until then,

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 27April2018 

Sunset silhouetting Riyam Incense burner and the Old Watch Tower, Muscat, Oman

Sunset over Muscat
With the jagged mountain backdrop, that giant incense burner high on a hill, and the outline of a medieval Portuguese watchtower overlooking the water, you could be nowhere else but the capital of the Sultanate of Oman.

When I’m travelling, I love to get out onto the water – or better yet, into the air – to get a different perspective on a new landscape or cityscape.

After a day of exploring Muscat at ground level (see: Sacred Spaces and Between the Past and the Future), I had the chance to take a sunset cruise on the Arabian Sea off the coast of the city in a traditional Omani dhow. When they told me that kahwa (or qahwa) – that deliciously spiced Omani coffee – and dates were included, I jumped at it!

Muscat, the Sultanate of Oman’s capital and largest city, hugs the narrow and rugged coast between the Gulf of Oman and the Al Hajar Mountains. For centuries, this strategic location – where the Gulf of Oman leads east to the Indian Ocean, and west to the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf – was almost inaccessible except by sea. 

Seafaring Yemenis were probably the first settlers here over 2000 years ago, and they continued their reliance on the oceans for their livelihood and trade. The country’s current name Oman and old Sumerian name Magan both mean ‘sea-people’ in Arabic.

In the early 16th century the Portuguese conquered the town in a bid to protect their own trade routes east. They built fortifications which still stand along the coast and harbour, but were overthrown in 1650 by the Ottoman Turks. The Omanis, under Sultan Ahmad ibn Sa’id, a direct ancestor of the present Sultan, took back control of the city in 1741.

This led to a period of economic prosperity and ongoing naval prowess, but continual infighting between ruling family members, religious leaders, and tribal chiefs eroded many of these gains. British interference fuelled rifts between Muscat and rest of Oman.

Under Sultan Said bin Taimur, who was backed by the British government and ruled between 1932 and 1970, the country was reunified. However, his hereditary kingdom was characterised as being “feudal, reactionary, and isolationist”; and “the gates into Muscat [were] locked every evening at sunset”.

Following a palace coup in 1970, his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, took over and ruled until his death in 2020. He modernised the state’s administration, introduced social reforms, and increased spending on health, education, and welfare.

But, old buildings remain, traditional dress and customs are common, and classic dhows still sit in the harbour. It was lovely to head out onto the gulf in one of these old boats – even if it was under motor rather than the old-fashioned sails!

Motor boats, Marina Bandar Rowdha, Muscat Oman

Boats and Cat Island
Under Sultan Qaboos bin Said, Oman was rated the most improved nation in the world in terms of development by the United Nations, and today it is categorised as a high-income economy. There is no shortage of modern boats in the Marina Bandar Rowdha.

Dhow in the lowering sun, Marina Bandar Rowdha, Muscat Oman

Dhow in the Lowering Sun
Men around the city are most often seen in their national dress, the dishdasha, a simple, ankle-length, collarless gown with long sleeves.
Tourism is becoming one of Oman’s largest industries, and old Arabian sailing boats are adapted to play their part.

Sooty gulls in a blue sky, Muscat Oman

Sooty Gulls – Larus Hemprichi
Gulls circle overhead …

Dhows motoring out of , Marina Bandar Rowdha, Muscat Oman

Exiting the Breakwater
… as we make our way out of the breakwater. The rocky outcrops rise dramatically from the harbour waters in front of us.

Young girl at the wheel of a dhow, Muscat Oman

Small Person : Big Wheel
The dhows must be easy to manage: the skipper hand the helm to one of our young passengers.

Cat Island, Gulf of Oman.

Cat Island
Named for the appearance of the crouching animal on the back of this rock, Cat Island signals that we are out in the gulf.

Mountains behind the Harbour, Marina Bandar Rowdha, Muscat Oman

Mountains behind the Harbour
It’s a dramatic and arid landscape rising up behind the harbour.

Al Bustan Palace, Al Bustan, Muscat Oman

Al Bustan Palace
In a domed former palace, set in gardens between the Al Hajar Mountains and the Sea of Oman, an upmarket Ritz-Carlton Hotel is a short beach-walk from the small town of Al Bustan.

Majlis Oman, Parliament building in Al Bustan

Majlis Oman
About thirty kilometres south of Muscat, Al Bustan is also home to Oman’s state council parliament buildings.

A dhow in the waters off Al Bustan, Oman

Al Bustan
We and the other tourist dhow jockey in and out of locations.

Four small sailboats, Gulf of Oman, Muscat

Small Sailboats on the Gulf

Dhow Rigging, mountains behind, Gulf of Oman, Muscat

Dhow Rigging

Al Jalali Fort from the Gulf of Oman, Muscat

Al Jalali Fort
As we turn north again, we can just see the fortifications around the Old City.

Muscat Old Cemetery from the Gulf of Oman, Muscat

Muscat Old Cemetery
Also known as the Christian Cemetery or Sa’Ali Cove Military Cemetery, this hard-to-access cove is the final resting place of one British lieutenant – a casualty of the First World War. There are ten other war-era non-service persons buried here – and a number of other people from the 1800s. The reefs meant we could get no closer.

Motor cruiser on the Gulf of Oman waters south of Muscat.

Ring of Mountains
A variety of commercial, recreational, tourism, and fishing vessels are out on the afternoon waters.

Portrait: Male Omani pouring a coffee pot, Muscat

Pouring the Qahwa
Qahwa (or kahwa) is the Arabic word for coffee: but it isn’t just coffee! In Oman, coffee is blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon – and sometimes with cloves and cinnamon as well. It is served with fresh dates (and possibly other treats) as a ritual ‘welcome’. I became quite addicted to it!

Afternoon silhouette of old Muscat from the water, Oman

Into the Afternoon Sun
The lowering autumn sun silhouettes the rugged coast and the harbour in front of us …

Al Jazira Island and Fort, Muscat Oman

Al Jazira Fort
… and turns the land and fort opposite the old city golden.

Old Muscat from the water, Oman

Old Muscat and Forts
As we round the point, it is easy to see how these forts – Al Jalali on the left and Al Mirani on the right – built by the Portuguese in the 1580s, commanded the small harbour in front of Old Muscat.

Al Alam Palace from the water, Old Muscat, Oman

Al Alam Palace
The existing Al Alam Palace, with its colourful facade, was rebuilt in 1972 and is still used for official functions.

Al Mirani Fort from the water, Old Muscat, Oman

Al Mirani Fort
The dhow continues north, giving us a closer view of one of the historic forts.

Muscat Canon Turret silhouetted by the afternoon sun, Oman

Muscat Canon Turret
As we round the next point, the lowering sun silhouettes the Muscat Canon Turret and the jagged cliffs around Muscat’s main harbour. The Sultan’s two royal yacht’s, moored in As Sultan Qaboos Port, are faintly traced out in the last light. 

Al Riyam Park from the water, Muscat Oman

Al Riyam Park
Al Riyam Park is an oasis of green between Old Muscat and Muttrah district. This is where the peace treaty was signed with the Portuguese in 1648; today it has amenities, coffee shops, and even a small amusement park.

Riyam Memorial
Built to commemorate Oman’s 20th National Day, the ornamental white watch tower at the top of the rise is designed to look like an incense burner.

As Sultan Qaboos Port at sundown, Muscat Oman

As Sultan Qaboos Port
We continue past the royal yachts in the darkening harbour …

Sunset behind mountains north of Muscat, Oman

Sunset
… to the mountains north of the city where the sun sinks, …

A dhow off the coast of Muscat in the dark, Oman

6PM
… leaving us to return to our harbour in the dark.

Text: Safe Sailing

There is definitely something magic about motoring gently back to port through a warm night on the Arabian Sea.

Wishing you safe sailing!

Pictures: 20October2019

Portrait: two Huli Wigmen and a woman in yellow face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Wigmen – and a Woman
The Huli are one of the most numerous tribes in Papua New Guinea. With their unique face painting and elaborate headdresses, they are also one of the most distinctive.

Papua New Guinea is fascinating!

Home to just over nine million people, at last estimate there were over 7000 different cultural groups with almost 850 distinct languages being spoken. The country is routinely touted as the most linguistically diverse place on the planet.

Of course, with the pressures of the modern world, and the double-edged sword that is ‘education’, the ability to speak Indigenous languages is declining precipitously in the younger generation. And, when language is lost, the finer understandings about aspects of one’s culture, traditional skills and crafts, and one’s place in the natural environment are also lost.

Papua New Guinea’s constitution declares the desire for traditional villages and communities to continue to function as viable units of society and efforts are made in the struggling education system to keep indigenous languages and culture alive.

Sing sings, gatherings of tribes or villages to show off their distinct culture, dance, and music, are a powerful means of passing on traditions to the younger generation. I was at the Mount Hagen Sing Sing Festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts. The array of distinctive tribal groups was mind boggling (see: Mount Hagen)!

With over 250,000 members at the 2011 census, the Huli people from Hela Province in the Southern Highlands are one of the largest ethnic groups – and certainly one of the most distinctive (see: Meet the Huli Wig Men). Unknown to Europeans until 1934, they are believed to have lived in their region for many thousands of years. Their reputations as fearless warriors has helped keep their cultural and linguistic traditions intact.

Traditionally, Huli men and women live separately, with strict gender divisions in roles and responsibilities. Children live with their mothers while young, and at seven or eight years old, boys are sent to live with their fathers. Around puberty, they enter enter bachelor school – or Wig School – where they to learn how to become men. At this time, they start growing their hair – using a combination of magic and a special diet – to be made into the fabulous wigs that they known for. Most Huli men cultivate more than one wig, with some designed for ceremonial uses and others for everyday wear. Each wig takes up to 18 months to grow and shape, and the young men are forbidden from any physical contact with women while they are undergoing this process. All a man’s wigs must be completed before he is allowed to marry.

Given the strict rules under which these wigs are created, I was surprised to find young women among the Huli sing sing group at Mount Hagen, albeit without the over-sized wigs under their feathered headdresses – and no amount of searching the internet shed any light on how this had come about.

Do join me in admiration of their wonderful face paint and ornate wigs!

Huli warrior in a wig and face paint, Paiya Village, PNG

Betel Stain and Bird Feathers
Even in soft feathers and a big smile – stained with the ubiquitous betel chew – Huli men are a fearsome sight.

Huli warrior in a ceremonial wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Ceremonial Winged Wig
Huli wigs are crafted into different shapes: ceremonial wigs sweep up like the wings of a bird. The cassowary quill through the nose is traditional decoration.

Huli Woman in a headdress and red and yellow face paint, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Woman
Although the women’s headdresses are as elaborate in their concoctions of bird-parts and feathers, they are built on a foundation of cuscus fur rather than human hair.

Huli Woman in a headdress and red and yellow face paint, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Woman in Face Paint
The bright yellow clay, called Ambua, is considered sacred in Huli culture. Red ochre adorns the whole body. Of course, for sing sing displays, these colours are just as likely to be store-bought.

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Flowers and Feathers
Everlasting flowers and bits of greenery can be included in the intricate wig decoration.

Huli Wigman

Wigman’s Hornbill
Huli men wear hornbill beaks flanked with boar’s tusks on their backs. The beaks symbolise strength and courage in battle.

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Warrior

Huli men in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

Feathers Galore
I have said it before: given the number of parrot and bird of paradise feathers that go into sing sing costumes, it is a wonder any birds survive in the wild!

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

“Kerapia Boys”
A hand-written cardboard sign identified this group as the “Kerapia Boys”. I couldn’t find them on the map!

Huli man and young women in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

“Kerapia Boys Hela Wigmen”
The Kerapia Boys included at least two young women and several very young boys.

Huli men and women, Mount Hagen PNG

Family Portrait
Not everyone is a performer!

Huli Wigmen and women in a sing sing circle, Mount Hagen PNG

Kundu Drums
Each small locality has their own traditional chant and drum rhythm, …

Huli Wigmen and women in a sing sing circle, Mount Hagen PNG

Wigmen Drumming
… and the Mt Hagen show ground is a cacophony of sound, and movement, and colour.

Huli man and young women in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Women with the Wigmen

Huli men and a young woman in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Shell Necklaces and Feathers

Huli man in face paint and decorated wig, Mount Hagen PNG

A Clear, Strong Gaze
These are a strong people – and it is good to see them passing their culture on to their young children; …

Huli Boy in face paint and headdresses, Mount Hagen PNG

Huli Boy
… some of whom are still far too young for Wig School.

Culture is never static.

Including young women and boys in the expression of age-old traditions would seem to be a sign that Huli culture is moving forward.

To the Future (text)If the Huli can maintain important traditions while embracing the future and becoming more inclusive to the desires and competencies of different individuals within their community, I’m all for it!

Pictures: 18-20August2017