Landscape, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Sagebrush and Jagged Peaks
Pack a good pair of walking boots: this is uneven terrain. But the hot afternoon air smells beautiful, and the views are stunning.

Mono County in California’s Eastern Sierra region is an outdoor paradise: crystal clear glacial lakes and rivers that attract fly fishing enthusiasts; jagged, steep mountain peaks that are magnets for rock climbers and mountaineers; high alpine meadows, dotted with unique wildflowers which photographers flock to enjoy; salt lakes and their colonies of birds that draw bird watchers from all over the globe; and countless hiking trails meandering through National Parks, State Forests and local reserves.

Basically, one is spoiled for choice!

I was lucky: I was visiting a friend who lives in the area, so I didn’t have to think or make decisions. I just put on my hiking boots, strapped on the cameras, and followed her lead.

One of our hikes was on the Virginia Lakes Trail in the Hoover Wilderness, a short drive away from the hamlet of Lee Vining. Although the 13.0 kilometre out-and-back trail is rated as moderate, at 3000 metres (9,846 feet), the trailhead is higher than our tallest mountain in Australia! I live at sea level, so I felt every inch of the 710 m (2330 ft) gain in altitude along the way. One blog site even warns hikers to watch for signs of altitude sickness on the trail (see: Another 100 Feet).

Virginia Lakes is the collective name given to a basin of lakes, connected by Virginia Creek. This hike starts near Big Virginia Lake, and passes a number of the other small lakes on the way to a scenic pass with panoramic views. Serious hikers can continue along the Pacific Crest; we turned around at Frog Lakes.

It is a very pretty hike – and the walk back was easy!

View down from Mono Lake Vista Point, California USA

Mono Lake Vista Point
It is a short drive into the hills above Mono Lake, where we had spent the morning watching the California gulls (see: Mono Basin and Mono Lake).

View over Big Virginia Lake from the Virginia Lakes Trail, California USA

Virginia Lakes
The walk starts near the Virginia Lakes Resort – and skirts the northeast of the aptly named Big Virginia Lake.

Fishermen, Big Virginia Lake from the Virginia Lakes Trail, California USA

Anglers
Virginia Lakes is popular for fishing, boating, and camping.

Fisherman, Big Virginia Lake, California USA

Catch of the Day?
Fly fishing for trout is an art – but I’m not sure this fish counts!

Landscape, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Virginia Lakes Surrounds
It amazes me how these tall pines find a foothold in this steep and stony terrain.

Mountain Monardella, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Mountain Monardella – Monardella Odoratissima
Pockets of wildflowers are tucked into the rocky ground, creating fragrant bouquets all around us.

Virginia Creek, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Running Water
We are within sight – or at least earshot – of Virginia Creek for most of our walk.

Landscape, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Pathway through the Scree
Parts of the trail are steep and covered in loose stone; I was glad for good boots and a walking stick. The wildflowers make a good excuse to stop and catch ones breath!

Landscape, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Water in the Valley Below
When you look back, you can see how far you have climbed.

Asters, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Asters

Pine Branches, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Pine Branches

Wildflowers, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Crimson Columbine (Aquilegia Formosa) and Yosemite Onion (Allium Yosemitense)
Wildflowers in every shape and colour are everywhere we look.

Sierra Tiger Lily, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Sierra Tiger Lily – Lilium Parvum

California Corn Lily, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

California Corn Lily – Veratrum Californicum
Native to these high mountain meadows, this beautiful plant is extremely poisonous.

Woods and grass along a rocky creek bed, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

In the Woods
Some parts of the trail are surprisingly damp and green.

Miner

Miner’s Cabin
After we have passed Blue Lake, we come to an old miner’s cabin. It is currently in a state of disrepair and poles propped to one side keep it from tumbling over completely.

Roof beam, Miner

Miner’s Cabin Roof Detail

Empty tins inside the miner

Empty Tins Inside

Cooney Lake, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Cooney Lake
It is a moderately steep climb up the hills to the next lake in the chain, Cooney Lake (3122 m – 10,244 ft).

Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Virginia Lakes Trail
The track continues up through tilted granite, with mountains scarred by ancient avalanches in the background.

Rocks and Milkweed, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Rocks and Milkweed
Even the seemingly inhospitable granite is home to wildflowers.

Mountain Pride in bloom, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Mountain Pride – Penstemon Newberryi

Woods and mountains, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Along the Trail

Tree roots and sage brush, Virginia Lakes Trail, Mono County California USA

Nature’s Sculpture: Fallen Wood and Sage

View over Big Virginia Lake from the Virginia Lakes Trail, California USA

Fishing on Big Virginia Lake
Back on Big Virginia Lake, the anglers are still fishing. Gas-powered boats aren’t allowed on these lakes, so it is beautifully quiet.

I took fewer photos on the return trip, as there was less need for me to stop to catch my breath! This made the return walk much quicker than the hike up.

Text: Take only Pictures

It truly was a beautiful walk, and we had perfect weather.

Even so, my poor legs and lungs were happy to make it back down the trail in one piece!

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Pictures: 19July2013

Portrait: Mike Elrington on stage, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Mike Elrington
The joyful passion of blues and roots performer Mike Elrington, as he sings on stage with the frenetic powerhouse band that is 19-Twenty, is what makes festivals so special!

The annual Thredbo Blues Festival combines two of my favourite things: mountains and music.

Every summer, the delightful village of Thredbo, tucked into the unique alpine flora and fauna of the Kosciuszko National Park, plays host to this eponymous weekend festival. Restaurants, pubs, and public spaces, give themselves over to musicians and music-lovers from near and far.

Well, almost every summer! Last year the festival was cancelled on account of the coronavirus that has turned all our lives upside down. The year before that, the weekend was in limbo until less than three days before it was due to start because of raging bush fires encroaching on the village itself (see: Singing the Blues). Even this year, under the cloud of Omicron, it was scheduled later in January than usual – perhaps in the hope that the rising waves of infection would peter out? – and its actual commencement was by no means certain until the last minute.

The performers on the line-up this year were all local, as our international borders are still effectively closed. There were also last-minute programme changes when musicians were either diagnosed with covid-19 or were deemed to be ‘close contacts’. Fortunately, this country is blessed with a depth of wonderful talent, so while the range of bands on offer might have been reduced, the quality didn’t suffer.

The festival did finally go ahead, but it was under somewhat restrictive guidelines: audience numbers were greatly reduced and room capacities were enforced; temperature checks and venue check-ins were in place; the audience was (mostly) to remain seated. Masks were required indoors, unless we were seated – when we are presumably less infectious – and while the performers could (obviously) sing, we weren’t allowed to.

Oh, and no dancing!

But, it was worth it to be back around live music. In fact, it was so uplifting that at one point, I found myself being hugged by a total stranger! So much for social distancing. Of course, I duly monitored for symptoms afterwards … But, we are all SO tired of the rules!

Join me for some music, and a walk in the mountains. Just refrain from singing along, please.

Summer pathway overlooking Lake Jindabyne, NSW Australia

Morning Walk – Jindabyne
The festival provides me a good excuse (as if I need one!) to spend a few days in the nearby town of Jindabyne. This year, the lake is overflowing after unseasonable rains. (iPhone12Pro)

Michelle Van der Meer & The Midnight Ramblers, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Michelle Van der Meer & The Midnight Ramblers
After the requisite welcome by festival organisers, the music kicked off Friday evening with Michelle Van der Meer & The Midnight Ramblers in The Pub.

Portrait: Michelle Van der Meer, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Michelle Van der Meer
An award-winning blues vocalist, Michelle is backed up by some well-known faces on the Australian scene …

Portrait: George (Medicine Man) Rigatos, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

George (Medicine Man) Rigatos
… including passionate guitarist, bassist, and singer George Rigatos.

Portrait: Alison Penney , Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Alison Penney
Much-loved boogie-piano player Ali Penney has lost none of her dazzle – in spite of recent serious illness.

Portrait: Rory Ellis, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Rory Ellis
Across ‘town’, gravel-voiced story-teller Rory Ellis packed out the room.

The Blues Preachers, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

The Blues Preachers
In another venue, I joined Brother John (John Morris) on slide guitar and Captain Bluetongue (Craig Lyons) on harmonica for some classic gospel-blues over dinner.

19-Twenty on stage, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

19-Twenty
News of the high-energy performances and superb musicianship of 19-Twenty had preceded them: I was part of a long queue outside the bar where they were playing.

Portrait: Kane Dennelly and a female vocalist, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022,

Kane Dennelly and a Guest Vocalist
Thanks to sound amplification – and a long (200mm) lens – I was able to enjoy them from outside the door.

Portrait: Mike Elrington on stage, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Mike Elrington with 19-Twenty

Portrait: Simon Kinny-Lewis on stage, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Simon Kinny-Lewis
I kicked off Saturday morning at the outdoor Alpine Bar where Simon Kinny-Lewis was clearly having fun …

Close-up: Simon Kinny-Lewis

Simon Kinny-Lewis on Guitar
… with his contemporary blues guitar.

Portrait: Drummer Tony Boyd, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Tony Boyd
Drummer Tony Boyd was everywhere I looked, providing the backbeat for a number of groups. Fortunately he’s a pleasure to watch and listen to!

Chairlift on the Ramshead, Thredbo Australia

Chairs on the Ramshead
My next venue was Australia’s highest restaurant, the Eagles Nest, which sits near the top of the Ramshead at 1937 metres (6355 feet). It is a steep, five kilometre walk up the hill, or a 15 minute chair ride. (iPhone12Pro)

Portrait: Fiona Boyes, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Fiona Boyes
At the top of the hill, I get to enjoy a lunch – and Fiona Boyes, whose stories I enjoy as much as her music and unique guitar collection.

Misty view over Thredbo from the top of the Kosciuszko Chair, Australia

Thredbo in the Mist Below
When the lunch-performance has finished, the mists have closed in and rain is threatening.

Grasses in the mist at the top of the Kosciuszko Chair, Australia

Grasses in the Mist
But, I am determined to walk down the Merritts Nature Track– about a two hour steep descent – regardless of the weather.

Silver Snow Daisies on the Ramshead, Merritts Nature Track, Australia

Silver Snow Daisies on the Ramshead
My favourite flowers, the silver snow daisies (Celmisia tomentella), seem to be late this season.

Bench on the path, Merritts Nature Track, Australia

Bench on the Path
I love this walk, but it feels steeper every year!

Trigger Plant, Merritts Nature Track, Australia

Trigger Plant – Stylidium Armeria

Yellow daisy wildflower, Merritts Nature Track, Australia

Floral Sunshine
There are countless varieties of daisy – and other wildflowers – growing along the path; many are endemic to this region.

Portrait: Lloyd Spiegle, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Lloyd Spiegle
I make it down the hill in time to catch Lloyd Spiegle – another wonderful performer whose storytelling is as enjoyable as his guitar stylings.

Drum kit and microphone set up in the Cascades Restaurant, Alpine Hotel, Thredbo Australia

Set Up in the Cascades Restaurant
One of the things I like about restaurant gigs is being there early, and getting a sort of ‘backstage’ vibe.

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick on stage, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Genevieve Chadwick
This is a performer I’ve caught many times now: she never disappoints!

Candles and Stewart D’Arrietta on piano, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Candle Light
My last stop for the evening was in the Lounge Bar, ….

Portrait: Stewart D’Arrietta on piano, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Stewart D’Arrietta
… where Stewart D’Arrietta, with his husky voice, was re-interpreting the songs of Tom Waits and Randy Newman.

Gondolas in the rain, Thredbo, Kosciuszko National Park Australia

Gondolas on the Hill
Sunday morning it was raining again. Fortunately, my plan was to try out the brand-new gondola, and enjoy the performers at Merritts Mountain House. (iPhone12Pro)

Kate Lush Band, Merritts Mountain House, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Kate Lush Band
First up was the Kate Lush Band, …

Portrait: Kate Lush, Merritts Mountain House, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Kate Lush
… with Kate Lush on vocals …

Portrait: Steve Edmonds, Merritts Mountain House, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Steve Edmonds
… and the fabulous Steve Edmonds on guitar.

Portrait: Drummer Tony Boyd, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Tony Boyd
The ubiquitous drummer Tony Boyd was hiding in the background, and stayed there …

Portrait: Simon Kinny-Lewis on stage, Thredbo Blues Festival 2022, Australia

Simon Kinny-Lewis (Again)
… as support for Simon Kinny-Lewis, who was the next performer. His set finished just before we all got temporarily trapped on the mountain top by lightening storms!

We did get down the mountain, eventually, and there were more wonderful artists …

Wombat on a dark road, Thredbo, Kosciuszko National Park Australia

No Entry!
… but I’ll leave you with this image of a wandering wombat, caught in my headlights as I make my way off the mountain for the last time. (iPhone12pro)

Text: To the Music

It was a joyous break from the lock-down routine.

Let’s hope that next year we can dance again!

Until then,

Enjoy the Music!

(Pictures: 27-30January2022)

 

Sailboats on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Sailboats on Dickson Inlet
In the relatively sheltered waters of Dickson Inlet in Port Douglas, sailboats are moored or anchored, protected from the cyclones that hit this coastline any time from the beginning of November through to the end of April.

In some parts of the Tropics, they call it Rainy Season. In the northern reaches of Australia, it is simply The Wet.

On a daily basis, the skies open, and it doesn’t rain, so much, as pour. I first experienced this when visiting my son in Darwin, NT, many years ago: mid afternoon, it was like having a warm bathtub dumped over your head. Regular activity goes into hiatus as visibility is reduced to almost nothing and you are soaked to the skin in an instant.

Visiting Tropical Far North Queensland during the Wet Season comes with risks – but I had cabin fever, and the timing of my road trip north was determined by windows of opportunity in the rolling Covid-19 lockdowns and the availability of accommodation.

There are advantages to travelling in the low season: while it is very hot, very humid, and very wet, the crowds are definitely fewer, the accommodation is cheaper, and the vegetation and waterways come to life.

Last February, I managed to organise myself a week’s accommodation in Port Douglas, a civilised little resort town a mere stone’s throw from the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Daintree National Park on one side and Great Barrier Reef on the other. I was determined to make the most of my time in the north and mapped out my time accordingly. I had made a day trip to the Great Barrier Reef from Airlie Beach a few days before on my drive north (see: The Heart of the Reef), so I was focussed on inland pursuits. On my first days in town, I took a segway tour of Four Mile Beach and rafted down the Mossman River – two activities which were great fun, but didn’t lead to photographs I’d care to share!

For a change of pace, I booked onto a late-afternoon trip on the Lady Douglas, a beautiful riverboat offering tours up the Dickson Inlet and around the Port Douglas waterfront. The ecological significance of the red mangroves and other salt-tolerant vegetation has been recognised, and the branching network of channels that make up Dickson Inlet are now part of the Estuarine Conservation Zone of the Great Barrier Reef Coast Marine Park.

Join me in a glass of wine and a lovely evening cruise:

Boats in the marina off Wharf Street, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Marina off Wharf Street
The coastal town of Port Douglas in tropical Far North Queensland has always attracted sport fishers: there are some beautiful powerboats in the marina.

The Lady Douglas riverboat, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

The Lady Douglas
I’m heading for the classic Lady Douglas riverboat for a late afternoon cruise.

Portrait: Lucas Agrums on the Lady Douglas microphone, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Lucas Agrums
Skipper, engineer, and co-owner Lucas keeps us entertained with his amusing and knowledgeable commentary as he guides the riverboat up Dickson Inlet / Packers Creek.

Sailboats moored on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Sailboats in the Estuary
As we make our way upstream, (iPhone12Pro)

Sailboat moored on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Sailboat in the Estuary
… we find the mangrove-covered banks lined with luxurious sailboats.

Sailboat moored on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Battened Down
Boat after boat is battened down in preparation for the summer storms.

Sailboats moored on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Storm Clouds over the Inlet
For the storms will come! The only questions are about the strength and timing of each afternoon squall.

Two men in a tinnie on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Tinnie on Dickson Inlet
Water-ferry services must do a roaring trade here: some of the moored boats are a long way from the mouth of the inlet.

Sailboat moored in the mangroves, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Waves and Ripples
The chugging of our motor as we wend our way up the inlet is mesmerising.

Mangroves, Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Red Mangroves – Rhizophora Stylosa
The Dickson Inlet is estuarine, flooding with sea water regularly. With their well-adapted root systems, the mangroves that thrive along the shoreline are well suited to periodic inundations with saline waters.

Whimbrel in the mangroves, Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Whimbrel in the Mangroves
Their aerial roots help them cope in oxygen-poor soils: branching stilt roots allow the trees to stay upright, while stabilising the coastline and providing a nutrient-rich habitat for other creatures.

Sailboat on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Schooner on Dickson Inlet

Radjah Shelducks against a cloudy sky, Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Radjah Shelducks – Radjah Radjah
Overhead, a flight of Burdekin ducks gets my attention.

Masked lapwings, Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Masked Lapwings – Vanellus Miles
The plovers on the banks are much more common – and twice as noisy!

Crocodile eyes in the mangroves, Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Little Croc in the Mangroves
Although this is crocodile territory – and deadly attacks on humans happen every few years or so – the best we saw on our trip was this little baby, only showing his eyes above the surface.

Sailboats moored on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Boats on Dickson Inlet
I lost count of the sailboats we saw, stretching well up-river.

Sailboat moored on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Sailboat in the Rain
As we worked our way back towards the mouth of the inlet, the rains came in. Fortunately, we were well protected!

Small bird perching on a sailboat, Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Small Bird Perching
The inlet is rich with foods for small birds.

Sailboat on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Dreamy Boat in the Rain
We come out of the estuary and into more open waters, and the mountains slide off into the distant rains.

Sailboat and dinghy on Dickson Inlet, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Boat and Dinghy
All manner of boats hunker down.

Portrait: woman behind the bar, the Lady Douglas, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Keeping an Eye on Things

Man in blue raincoat and hat fishing in the rain, Port Douglas, Queensland

Mad Dogs and Fishermen
Not many people are out and about in the evening downpour.

Port Douglas Wharf and Storage Shed in the rain, Queensland AU

Port Douglas Wharf and Storage Shed
The historic wharf was built in 1904 and heritage-listed in 1992 for demonstrating aspects of Queensland’s history.

Rain and rocks, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia.

Rain and Rocks
With one last look over the rainy waters, we head back to dock.

I love the perspective you get on a place when you see it from the water, and I thoroughly enjoyed my rainy evening in the Port Douglas mangroves.

Text: Safe Sailing

Of course, although the boat was sheltered, my walk home was not.

I’m so lucky that tropical rains are warm!

Safe Sailing

Photos: 22February2021

Walkers on the Vega de Sotres, Picos de Europa, Asturias Spain.

Vega de Sotres
A late-afternoon Spanish sun slants over walkers on an ancient track in the magnificent Picos de Europa in Asturias.

This is a long way from the Southern Spanish beaches of the Costa del Sol that are favoured by crowds of Northern European visitors who want to sit in the sun!

Here, at the opposite end of the country – in Asturias, Northern Spain – stunning craggy mountains rise up in all directions. The wilds are punctuated only by small mountain villages and collections of ancient shepherd’s huts, connected by narrow winding roads and walking tracks. Thanks to a typical Atlantic climate, temperatures tend to be moderate, and there is a chance of rain or snow throughout most of the year. Visitors to this part of the country are looking for rugged outdoor activities like mountain climbing, canyoning, kayaking, and hiking.

The Picos de Europa are part of the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. They stretch across the autonomous communities of Asturias, Cantabria, and León, and are almost wholly contained within an eponymous national park. First established in Cantabria in 1918, and expanded to its current size in 1995 and 2014, the park achieved UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status in 2003.

The almost 650 square kilometre (just under 250 square miles) park includes 11 rural villages, making it Spain’s only inhabited nature reserve. People have lived in this demanding environment for many generations. They still make artisanal foods and drinks, operate traditional cottage industries, and follow their herds of goats and lambs into the wild pastures – all while surrounded by over 200 jagged limestone peaks higher than 2000 metres (1.24 miles), and divided from their neighbours by deep and spectacular gorges. The region is isolated enough that it is still reputedly home to Cantabrian brown bears (Ursus arctos pyrenaicus) and Iberian wolves (Canis lupus signatus) – not that we ventured far enough into the more remote regions to spot any! On one walk, however, we did see a small herd of the more common rebeccos (Cantabrian chamois – Rupicapra pyrenaica parva).

I was in the region for an Introductory Spanish course at the Peak Me language school in Panes, not far outside the Picos de Europa National Park. Our small group did class work in the mornings, and then went for hikes in the afternoons with a guide from Canoe Adventure Trophy.

The tiny village of Panes is well placed to take advantage of some well-marked walks through the magnificent scenery nearby. On our third afternoon, for example, we drove north and then walked a section of trail along the Cantabrian Coast (see: An Afternoon Walk in España Verde). And, the town itself – especially with its arboretum, the Botanical Garden of Panes, a project developed over the previous five years by the Peñamellera Baja City Council – was a great place for my morning walks, and longer explorations.

On our penultimate day at the school, we took our last walk into the Picos de Europa, following a section of the Vega de Sotres and the Ruta de la Reconquista.

Do join us!

Panes Botanical Gardens and mountain backdrop, Asturias Spain.

Panes Botanical Gardens
Our class orientation walk took us past the wonderful green spaces along the Deva River (iPhone6).

Iglesia de San Andres de Sieḥu in Panes, Asturias Spain.

Iglesia de San Andres de Sieḥu
Panes has several churches – I’m not sure if this Medieval stone building is still operational (iPhone6).

Walkers in the narrow back streets of Panes, Asturias Spain.

Village Walk
The back streets are narrow and winding, crowded with tall, colourful buildings (iPhone6).

Ermita de San Juan de Ciliergo, Panes Asturias Spain.

Ermita de San Juan de Ciliergo
Another walk takes me past the ruins of an old church, first built in 1184. (iPhone6)

Old stone home compound, Panes Asturias Spain.

“A Little Estate”
Outside the main street of Panes, the properties – mostly farms and apple orchards – look quite historic.

View over Panes Asturias Spain.

Panes
From the hills, there are nice views back over the town and the mountains.

Views over the hills around Panes through a wooden-frame window, Asturias Spain.

Classroom Daydreams
Even while class is in session, I can enjoy views over the nearby hills (iPhone6).

Tunnel house, Puente Poncebos, Asturias Spain

Tunnel House
In the afternoon, we follow the road into the Picos de Europa, past an extraordinary tunnel house, high over the Río Cares in Poncebos (iPhone6).

Walker on the Vega de Sotres, Picos de Europa, Asturias Spain.

On the Vega de Sotres
Our transport drops us just outside the village of Sotres, and our guide Vivi leads off down the trail.

Invernales del Texu stone cottages, Sotres Spain

Invernales del Texu
We pass a collection old cabins and livestock barns or majadas, built by local shepherds as ‘winters’ to protect themselves – and their goats and sheep – from the inclement mountain weather. Buildings like these are still in regular use (see: The Last of the Vegas de Sotres).

Cows on the Vega de Urriellu, Sotres, Spain

Cows on the Bend
There is a fork in the trail: that path follows the Vega de Urriellu to Pandébano and beyond, …

Spanish guide in front of a signboard, Sotres Asturias.

Nuestro Guíe Vivi – Our Guide Vivi
… whereas we are following another section of La Ruta de la Reconquista (The Reconquest Route).
After a battle in Covadonga in 718 to reclaim the Peninsula from the Muslim conquest, a handful of Cantabrian and Asturian rebels who were cornered fled across the Picos de Europa using this route. Unfortunately, they were ultimately buried by a landslide in Cosgaya.

Jagged rocks high up around Vega de Sotres, Spain

Jagged Rocks
Classified as alpine karst, the meadows are punctuated by jagged limestone peaks and rivers of scree.

Walkers on the Vega de Sotres, Spain

Walkers on the Path
The Río Duje is far below us as we find a good pace downhill. Coming back might not be so easy!

Jagged rocks and grass, Vega de Sotres, Spain

Grassy Slope
These mountain grasses are what attracted the wandering shepherds.

Jagged rocks high up around Vega de Sotres, Spain

Rocky Ridge
Glaciers rolled through these mountains – leaving behind jagged ridges above, racing rivers below, and some perennial snow patches hidden away.

Water spring, Vega de Sotres, Spain

No Ensucien el Agua – Don’t Dirty the Water

Invernales del Texu stone cottages, Vega de Sotres, Spain

Stone Buildings – Stony Crags
More of the Invernales del Texu to protect shepherds against the cold. According to Wikipedia, the walls are [made] without mortar, but they look pretty solid.

Cantabrian chamois on a grassy hill, Vega de Sotres, Spain

Rebeccos
If you squint, you’ll see the Cantabrian chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica parva) on the hill; it is starting to darken, and they are a fair distance.

Jagged rocks high up around Vega de Sotres, Spain

Rocky Bight
As we make our way back up the hill, the shadows lengthen …

Invernales del Texu stone cottages, Sotres Spain

Huts in the Valley
… and the last light barely warms the rocky mountaintops.

Old farmer in blue coveralls with a cow, Vega de Sotres, Spain

Apples for the Cows
This man was originally from the French end of these northern mountains and valleys, so I was able to chat with him. He told me he comes out every day to make sure the nursing mums get a fresh apple or two to supplement their diets.

Mountaintops over the roofs, Sotres, Asturias Spain

Mountaintops and Rooftops
When we return to our starting point, our van is waiting to drive us to Sotres, which, at 1050 metres (3445 feet), is the highest village in Asturias.

Peña Castil Hotel and Highway CA-1, Sotres Spain

Main Street – Sotres
It is seven-thirty in the evening – but the Spanish eat dinner late, so we stop for a quick drink in the charming hotel that is named for the nearby mountain, Peña Castil.

Text: Happy Walking!Back in Panes, I have time for a shower before we head to a restaurant across the river to partake of the local specialties – notably the local cheeses and natural cider (sidra). This cider has to be poured from a great height to oxygenate it – and then must be drunk in one go, as soon as it is poured.

When in Asturias

 

Pictures: 23-28September2019

Feluccas sailing on the Nile at Aswan, Egypt

Feluccas on the Nile
It’s a trick of perspective: these traditional wooden sailing boats on the Upper Nile at Aswan seem to dwarf the grand hotels on the waterfront and the multi-level floating cruise boats docked along the shoreline.

There is something magical about being on the water!

I especially love the different perspective it give to an unfamiliar landscape when I’m travelling.

The Nile River is the very heart of Egypt’s civilisation and history: when in Egypt, a boat trip on the Nile is a must. Tourist riverboats cruise between Luxor and Aswan, and I had enjoyed my trip south, up the river, sipping G&Ts like someone out of an Agatha Christie novel as the fertile banks slipped past (see: Peregrine Egypt). Our cruise boat was currently rafting up against another, larger one, in Aswan, and we had shuttled to smaller wooden outboard vessels for the trip further up-river to the sacred Temple of Isis (see: The Temples of Philae).

It was late afternoon, and we were to be treated to a peaceful sail on a traditional felucca around the many islands scattered across the relatively shallow waters here, just below the Aswan Low Dam.

Feluccas are traditional wooden sailing boats with oars and a latin-rig triangular sail set on a long yard, mounted at an angle on the mast. Feluccas are an iconic sight on this part of the Nile, where they have plied the waters since the time of the Pharaohs: stepping aboard one is like stepping back in time. With their flat bottoms and low draft, they can silently sneak into shallows and over sandbars, getting close to the banks of the river and the shorelines of the many islands.

Our trip took us around islands full of birdlife, and allowed us views up to the historic 7th-century fortress Monastery of St Simeon and to the more modern Aga Khan Mausoleum on the western bank. Feluccas rely on the northerly currents and the predominantly southerly breeze: because the wind usually subsides at night, we were docked back in Aswan before dark.

The next evening, after a fabulous morning exploring the temples at Abu Simbel (see: Abu Simbel), we were on the water again: this time in a simple wooden outboard to be ferried to a Nubian village for dinner in a local home.

All part of the Upper Nile experience!

Cruise boat tied up on the Nile at Aswan, Egypt

Nile River Cruise Boat
Multi-story cruise boats operate like floating hotels up and down the river between Aswan and Luxor. This one was my home for four magical nights.

Tourist boats on flat grasslands, Aswan Egypt.

Tourist Boats
On one of the many islands in the Nile, simple wooden boats – of the type we took to the Philae Temples that morning (see: The Temple of Isis) – are tied up and waiting for customers.

Little Egret, Nile riverside, Aswan Egypt

Little Egret – Egretta Garzetta
The egret watching the water from the dock is a long way from white: probably a function of the pollution in the air and water.

Seated man in a white galabeya, Aswan Egypt

Man on the Phone
Many local men still wear the galabeya (or jellabiya), the traditional loose-flowing Egyptian kaftan that originated here in the Nile Valley.

Felucca on the dock at Aswan, Egypt

Felucca on the Dock
On the dock, our boatman is unfurling the large triangular canvas sail on our boat in preparation for our arrival.

Two men on a felucca on the dock at Aswan, Egypt

Men on a Felucca
Preparing the boat for sailing takes some co-ordinated work.

Man in a white galabeya seated on a felucca, Aswan Egypt

Boatman on the Tiller
Once the the boat is out in the wasters of the Nile, our boatmen get to relax a bit.

Feluccas sailing on the Nile at Aswan, Egypt

Felucca in Aswan
It is a beautiful afternoon, and we are not the only felucca on the river.

Man in a white galabeya seated on a felucca, Aswan Egypt

Afternoon Stillness

Black-winged stilt, The Nile, Aswan Egypt.

Black-Winged Stilt – Himantopus Himantopus
Some of the islands here in the Nile, just below the Aswan Low Dam, host a rich variety of birdlife.

Purple heron in the reeds, The Nile Aswan Egypt.

Purple Heron – Ardea Purpurea
Egypt is home to a number of bitterns, egrets, and herons. This purple heron is almost hidden in the grass, …

Grey heron in the reeds, The Nile Aswan Egypt.

Grey Heron – Ardea Cinerea
… and a grey heron nearby stands out less than the garbage in the river.

Egyptian geese on a rocky outcrop in the Nile, Aswan Egypt

Egyptian Geese – Alopochen Aegyptiaca
Also known as Nile geese, these strikingly beautiful birds blend in with the rocks in the river.

Felucca and an islands in the Nile, Aswan Egypt

Felucca and Islands in the Nile

Monastery of St Simeon, West Bank of the Nile, Aswan Egypt.

Camel on the West Bank
High on the desert dunes, we can see the outlines of the abandoned 7th-century fortress Monastery of St Simeon.

Portrait: man on a drum in a felucca, Aswan Egypt

Boatman on a Drum
In the afternoon sun, our boatman entertains us with traditional Nubian music.

Pied kingfisher in dark grass, Aswan Egypt

Pied Kingfisher – Ceryle Rudis
Hiding on the darkening shoreline, a pied kingfisher watches for prey.

Aga Khan Mausoleum, West Bank of the Nile, Aswan Egypt.

Aga Khan Mausoleum
The mausoleum of Aga Khan III, the 48th Imam of the Ismaili sect, also known as Sir Sultan Muhammed Shah (1877 – 1957), sits high on a hill.

Felucca at the West Bank of the Nile in the twilight, Aswan

Felucca in the Twilight
As the light drops over the Nile

Man in a white galabeya on the tiller of a felucca, Aswan Egypt

Boatman in the Twilight
… our boatman steers us home for dinner.

Man in a green galabeya on the tourist boat dock, Aswan Egypt

Man on the Dock
The next evening, after a morning at Abu Simbel (see: Abu Simbel), we are back on the docks to get on different type of Nile tourist boat.

Felucca on the Nile, Aswan, Egypt

Felucca on the Nile
Lateen-rigged boats dot the water.

Portrait: Nubian boatman on The Nile, Aswan Egypt

Nubian Boatman
Our boat pulls away from Aswan

Mural on the adobe walls going into the Nubian Village, Aswan Egypt

Mural at the Entry
… and drops us at the Nubian Village on the other side of the river.

Twilight moonrise, Nubian Village, Aswan Egypt

Moonrise
As twilight falls, the moon rises over the narrow streets and painted multi-story buildings.

Adobe house, Nubian Village, Aswan Egypt

Adobe Building
Like many of the buildings in the Nubian village, our host’s house is colourfully patterned adobe.

Portrait of a Nubian man in a colourful room, Aswan Egypt

Our Host
It is too dark inside to get a good photograph of our Nubian host, but not quite dark enough to dim the wildly colourful walls.

After dinner, we made our way back through dark, narrow streets to the wharf to ride our boat back to Aswan on the other side of that mighty magic river.

Text: Safe Sailing

Like traveller have for centuries …

Until next time,

Safe Sailing!

Photos: 10-11October2019