Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Feathers, Shells, and Face Paint
These Western Highland women have spent hours getting ready – but now they can sing, dance, and enjoy themselves – which is what the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is all about.

Papua New Guinea is known for its colourful tribes. Even the official government tourism site features different tribal groups in their elaborate tradition costumes and face paint.

Of course, the country is also known for its ongoing inter-tribal animosities. Tribal warfare continues to be the subject of regular news reports and academic study.

Papua New Guinea sing sings are gatherings of tribes or villages to show off their distinct culture, dance, and music. The Mount Hagen sing sing started back in the early 1960s, before Independence, as a peacekeeping effort to foster understanding between sparring tribes. The colonial administrators hoped to reduce tribal fighting by promoting positive forms of competition.

Today, this popular event takes place every year on the Saturday and Sunday of the third weekend of August at the Kagamuga Showground in Mount Hagen. Cash prizes and significant prestige are still available to the ‘winners’ in terms of dance, performance, and traditional costume. The festival attracts up to 100 distinctive cultural groups from the Western Highlands Province, and from all over the rest of the country, and is a popular stop on tourist itineraries. As well as bringing in tourist dollars, this festival – and others like it – help to keep indigenous languages and culture alive by valuing the external expressions of these timeless traditions, and encouraging participation by younger community members.

Some years ago, I was at the Mount Hagen Sing Sing Festival with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts. We spent significant time watching and photographing while the disparate groups they got ready for their performances. The array of distinctive tribal costumes, face-paints, and headdresses was just amazing (see: Mount Hagen)!

The main show runs from about 9am to 2pm, and it was now the last day; I spent the morning in the nearby school where a number of Western Highland troupes were putting the final touches on their outfits and paint (see: Portraits on a Rainy Morning).

When I returned to the main show grounds, it was just in time for the last dances – and a few more colourful portraits.

Join me!

Western Highlands women in festival costume dancing in a school grounds, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Women’s Practice Session
In a corner of the school yard near the Mount Hagen Sing Sing Festival Showgrounds, a Western Highlands women’s group put in a last-minute practice.

Close-up: Pink feathers and fur strung with shells, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Feathers, Fur, and Shells
The women’s heavy and elaborate neck scarves are made from colourful cuscus fur interlaced with different types of shells.

Three Western Highland women standing tall against an overcast sky, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Tall against the Sky
The women stand proud in the face paint, tall feathered headdresses, heavy shell necklaces and and kina-shell breast plates.

Portrait: Two Police Special Services Division officers in uniform, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Local Forces
A short walk away in a large paddock, a number of tribal groups are getting ready. The police presence is conspicuous and well armed …

Portrait: Two Police Special Services Division officers in uniform, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Police Special Services Division
… but friendly.

Western Highland man in black and yellow face paint, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Yellow and Black
A bilum is an iconic Papua New Guinean string bag made using a knotless netting technique. The same skill goes into making the colourful hats that are stuffed with moss (or other materials) and often decorated with beads, leaves, and feathers.

Western Highland men applying face paint, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Concentration
Everyone is concentrating on their small, hand-held mirrors. I love the bikini-clad young lady pictured on this one.

Carved and painted tribal shields, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Tribal Shields
On the way into the show grounds, a number of local items are on display and for sale: carvings; paintings; bilum bags; woven sisal, seagrass, and cane products; and leather goods.

Moikep man in face paint playing a bamboo flute, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Moikep Bamboo Flute Group
Inside the show grounds, colour and sound is everywhere – …

Moikep man playing a bamboo flute, Mt Hagen, Papua New Guinea

Moikep Man on a Bamboo Flute
… but not every group is here to dance, and not every performer is in costume.

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Western Highland Women Dancing
After they have done a few laps around the exhibition space, the different groups continue dancing in their own little corners – …

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Red White and Blue
… – somehow managing to ignore competing songs and rhythms just a few feet away.

Sleeping Western Highlands child in face paint, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Tuckered Out
Not everyone can last the distance!

Western Highland women dancing at the Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Same, Same, but Different!
I thought this was the same group I had watched practicing at the school – but they are not! There are small, but significant differences in their headdresses and face paint. And of course, the songs and dances are different.

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Mindima Woman
In a similar fashion, these headdresses resemble those from Jiwaka, the next province to the west. But, the women’s hand-written cardboard sign identified them as the Mindima Women’s Group, which is from nearby Chimbu (Simbu) Province.

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Last Song : Last Dance

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Huge Headdress
The Chimbu are known for their huge headdresses made from bird of paradise feathers which can be up to one meter long.

Portrait: Mindima Woman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Feathers
I’m always staggered by the number of rare parrots and other bird parts that make it into these fantastic ceremonial headdresses. Fortunately, they are usually well looked after between festivals, so new headdresses are not needed every year.

Man and young woman from the Kerapia Boys Hela Wigman, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Kerapia Boys Hela Wigman
As I’ve spoken about before, the Wigmen from Hela Province grow their own hair to make their elaborate headdresses. The young woman’s hat, on the other hand, is constructed from fur and feathers.

Western Highland boy in face paint and moss, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Western Highlands Boy

Western Highland man in face paint and high hat, Mt Hagen Festival, Papua New Guinea

Western Highlands Man
Some of the men’s headdresses stand incredibly tall – and it’s hard to get the whole thing into one shot as they loom against the sky. Fortunately, the festival has wrapped up – as it looks like it is going to rain again!

It certainly is – as advertised – a cultural festival for the senses! The kaleidoscope of colours and noise stayed with me for a long time after the last dance was finished.

Text: Keep smilingI think we were all winners.

Until next time,

Keep Smiling!

Pictures: 20August2017

Colourful kites in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kites over Colombo
It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon, and families were flying colourful kites over Galle Face Green in Colombo’s Fort District.

Colombo, the commercial capital of Sri Lanka, is a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural city of 5.6 million. Thanks to its large natural harbour and its strategic position along the East–West sea trade routes, the city has a long and colourful history, some of which is still evidenced in the historic colonial buildings dotted between temples and modern sky scrapers.

Colombo was known to Indian, Greek, Persian, Roman, Arab, and Chinese traders for over 2,000 years. Arab traders – whose descendants make up 9.2% of the Sri Lankan population today – settled in the region in the 8th century AD. The Portuguese arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, establishing a small trading post and laying the foundations for a fort in 1517. This harbour-front area is still called Fort District, even though nothing remains of the fortifications that were elaborated many times over the years: by the original Portuguese, the Dutch, and finally the British, who pulled down the ramparts 1879 when attack by sea was no longer a real threat.

As Colombo’s central business district, Fort features a number of imposing modern high-rises as well as impressive examples of original colonial architecture. What draws locals to the area, however, is the Galle Face Green, the city’s largest open space, stretching for 500 m (1,600 ft) between the multi-story buildings along Galle Road and the foreshore of the Indian Ocean. The Galle Face Green Promenade, was set aside and built in 1859 during the British colonial era (see: Wikipedia).

I was lucky enough to have a friend living and working in the city when I visited some years ago, and as she too is a photography-enthusiast, she guided us to the best districts to walk around. We spent the weekend chatting as we alternated photo-walks with coffee-stops around the city: the temples and narrow streets of Slave Island on the Saturday (see: Buddhas of Colombo and Slave Island Streets) and the streets and parklands of Fort District on the Sunday – culminating at the historic Galle Face Hotel for sunset drinks and flag ceremony.

Do come along!

World Trade Center towers from inside the Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo Sri Lanka

Old Dutch Hospital
We started our Fort photowalk with coffee at the Old Colombo Dutch Hospital – built-for-purpose some time before 1681, and now retrofitted as an upmarket shopping precinct. In contrast to the clay tiles on the roof of the old low-rise building, the shiny towers of Colombo’s World Trade Center rise 43 stories up into the air.

Cargills (Ceylon) Limited building, Colombo Sri Lanka

Cargills (Ceylon) Limited
Once the home of the Dutch military commander of Galle Fort, the building here was acquired by the Cargills company in 1896, and rebuilt between 1902 and 1906. I don’t know how close the current version is to the original: there is a foundation stone dated 1684 preserved inside.

Sri Lanka Port Authority, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Port Authority

Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple with the sun behind, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare
The stupa-shape of this temple just off the busy Lotus Road interchange drew us in. (iPhone6)

Buddhas in the Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas around the Stupa
We did a short circuit to pay our respects, …

Man and woman in conversation on a bench, Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

In Conversation
… and left the locals to their afternoon chat.

Dredging viewed through a fence, Fort, Colombo Sri Lanka

Development through the Fence
Colombo is a city of waterways: here we are looking towards the Indian Ocean, as we cross over the canal leading out of Beira Lake. (iPhone6)

Man and woman in conversation on stone steps, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

On the Steps
The bridge takes us straight onto Galle Face Green.

Vendor with pinwheels on Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Galle Face Beach and Green
There is debate as to how this 5 ha (12 acre) ocean-side urban park came by its name. The space was originally set aside so that the Dutch cannons could watch over the sea and was laid out as a promenade by the British in 1859. The building in the background is our destination for sunset drinks: the Galle Face Hotel – established in 1864.

Motion blur: Pinwheels spinning in the wind, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Pinwheels in the Wind
This urban park stretches 500 m (1,600 ft) along the coast, and is a popular destination for the city’s residents.

Colourful kite in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kite over Colombo
The sky overhead was full of colourful kites, and I was a little envious, as I’ve never succeeded in flying one.

Young girl in a hijab flying a kite, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

l Flying a Kite
Even with better-constructed versions than the ones I tried to make as a child, some people still had trouble getting them off the ground.

Kites in the sky over the Grand Hyatt, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kites over the Grand Hyatt

Family walking, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Family in the Park

Kite flying in front of Colombo Palaza Tower, Galle Face Green, Sri Lanka

Kite on Colombo Palaza Tower

Young girl in a fancy dress, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Trying to Fly
I enjoyed watching this little one as she tried to get her kite off the ground.

Woman in a hijab and a girl in a fancy dress, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

When the Grownups Take Over
The look on her face when mum stepped in to ‘help’ was priceless.

Spiderman kite in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Spiderman Flying Free
This was my favourite: I love how Spiderman is hanging onto his web.

Woman and a lifeguard tower in afternoon sun, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Woman and a Watchtower
The lowering sun turns the lifeguard chair liquid …

Sun behind the Sri Lankan flag, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Sunset in the Flag
… and sets fire to the Sri Lankan flag.

Palm Trees reflected in a glass tabletop, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

Palm Trees in the Table
The elegant Galle Face Hotel is one of Sri Lanka’s oldest and most popular hotels. We found a table in the outdoor courtyard. (iPhone6)

Two men, one in tartan one in hotel uniform, exiting Galle Face Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

Piper Playing
In true post-colonial glory, every evening two men come out of the hotel, …

Two men, one in tartan one in hotel uniform, at the Galle Face Hotel flagpole, Colombo Sri Lanka

The Flag is Down
… and as the pipes play and the sun sets, the Sri Lankan flag is lowered …

Men at the Galle Face Hotel flagpole after sunset, Colombo Sri Lanka

Evening Piper at the Fort
… and solemnly carried back indoors.

My visit happened to be on November 11th: Remembrance Day in my world, so even though I was in a very different place, while I was listening to a piper at sunset, I could only reflect on Laurence Binyon’s poem For the Fallen, and “…remember them.”

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaIt was a poignant end to a lovely afternoon.

Wishing you and yours

Safe Travels!

Photos: 11November2018

Tufas in the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Mono Lake
It is like another world: limestone tufa towers rise like strange stalagmites out of the still, salty lake waters in California’s Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve.

Mark Twain described a “solemn, silent, sail-less sea” and called it “California’s Dead Sea”.

Mono Lake is, indeed, other-worldy.

The air is hot and still: July afternoon temperatures range from the high twenties (29°C; 84°F) into the mid-thirties (35°C; 95°F) – and rapidly drop into the single digits at nightfall.

The waters are dense and still: the shallow waters that cover about 168 square kilometres (65 square miles) flow in from the surrounding mountains, but don’t flow out again. Mono Lake is the terminal lake in an endorheic basin; thanks to water evaporation into the hot, dry, desert air over the millennia, the salts and minerals that wash into it from Eastern Sierra streams have become more concentrated and now are about two and a half times as salty as the ocean, and very alkaline.

Some say the ancient lake is over 1 million years old: it was formed at least 760,000 years ago, and is among the oldest lakes in North America. Sitting at the north end of the Mono–Inyo Craters volcanic chain, it is thought to be the vestige of an inland sea.

No fish break the surface of the dense waters: there are none here. They can’t survive the hypersalinity and high alkalinity. This is home to single-celled planktonic algae, Mono Lake brine shrimp, alkali flies, and a number of nematodes. And these, in turn, are all an important source of food for migratory and nesting birds. The ancient lake literally teems with bird life, and the longer you stand on the shore, the more you see.

Perhaps the lake’s most remarkable features are the tufa towers: lumpy columns of calcium carbonate – or limestone – that rise out of the still waters like something from another world.

I was there in the early evening with a friend and a tripod: we had spent the morning at the nearby Minaret Vista (see: Minaret Vista), and were hoping for a nice sunset amongst the tufa.

Join me!

Landscape, South Tufa Area, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

An Oasis in the Desert
As we walk into the South Tufa Area, Mono Lake and the large volcanic Paoha Island within it, come into view. Naturalists lead free tufa walks here three times daily – which probably explains the clump of people in my view.

Landscape, South Tufa Area, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Mono Lake Tufa Remains
The lake was much larger once. From 1913, the city of Los Angeles diverted waters from feeder rivers, and in 1941 extended the Los Angeles Aqueduct system into the Mono Basin. By 1990, the lake had dropped 14 metres (45 feet) and had lost half its volume relative to the 1941 water level. It took concerted local effort to save the lake, and the state reserve was finally established by California in 1981. Fallen tufa from years past still litter the sandy ground.

Landscape, South Tufa Area, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

South Tufa Area
Tufas start their life underwater: calcium-rich freshwater springs bubble up from under the lake bed.

Tall Limestone Tufa, South Tufa Area, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tall Limestone Tufa
The calcium reacts with the carbonates in the lake water, combining to make calcium carbonate, or limestone. The limestone settles as a solid around the spring, and over time, builds up into a tufa tower.

Landscape, South Tufa Area, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Evening on the Tufas
These tufa towers keep growing, as spring waters continue to rise up through them, and leave more deposits as they seep through the surfaces.

People on the shoreline, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

People at the Tufas
Mountains rise up all around us.

Bird on a stone in the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Sage Thrasher (Oreoscoptes Montanus) – I Think!
The lake is a mecca for birds and bird watchers.

Birds on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Birds on Mono Lake

Moonrise over the tufa, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Moonrise over the Tufa
Behind us, the moon rises over the tufa in the south east, …

Sunburst on the Tufa
… and in the other direction, the lowering sun is reflected in the lake.

Tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufa Towers
The lengthening shadows highlight the rough surfaces of the limestone columns.

Sandpiper reflected in the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Sandpiper in the Tufa
The lake is home to sandpipers, oystercatchers, avocets, phalaropes and other long-billed, long legged waders, who all blend in with the rocks. I had trouble distinguishing one from the other!

Tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufa
The shapes reflected in the still waters are other-worldly.

Tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufa Mirrored
They seem to float on the water in the evening light.

Children collecting water from the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Children Collecting Water
At the edge of the lake, children collect water to study the brine shrimp and alkali flies up close.

Long-billed Dowitcher in the tufa, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Long-billed Dowitcher (Limnodromus Scolopaceus) or Wilson’s Phalarope (Phalaropus Tricolor) ?

Sage Thrasher in the vegetation, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Sage Thrasher (Oreoscoptes Montanus)

Tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufas on the Lakeshore

People on the shoreline, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Evening Walk around Mono Lake

California gull reflected in water, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

A Seagull in the Looking Glass
Mono Lake is home to the largest California gull (Larus californicus) nesting sites in North America, and an estimated 50,000 gulls stop here in summer.

Long-billed Dowitcher on the tufa, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Wilson’s Phalaropes (Phalaropus Tricolor

Tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufas in the Lake
The scene is primordial – or like something out of science fiction.

Osprey carrying nesting material to a tufa, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Nesting Osprey
Since the mid-1980s, osprey pairs have been nesting on tufa towers in Mono Lake.

Osprey carrying nesting material to a tufa, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Osprey Pair
Although the raptors are fish-eaters – and therefore have to hunt for food further afield – the tufa-islands provide nesting sites that ground-based predators can’t access.

Tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Jagged Tufas
With my tripod set up near the shoreline, …

Moonrise over tufas, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Moon over Mono
… I can watch the moon rise over the tufa towers …

Pink evening sky over the tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufas in the Twilight
… as the sky changes colour over the lake …

Dark twilight sky over the tufa on the lake, Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve, California USA

Tufa Island after Sunset
… and everything goes dark and quiet.

Truly, like another world.

But, full of life. Not a dead sea at all.

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 18July2013

  • […] I was visiting a friend who lives part of the year in this magnificent area. We had explored the South Tufa Area of the lake, with its otherworldly tufa towers of limestone rising out of the salty waters the evening before (see: Evening over the Tufa Towers).  […]ReplyCancel

Portrait: Nyangatom Woman in brown and white beads, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Nyangatom Woman
On the west banks of the southern Omo River, the Nyangatom tribal people continue to guard their traditions and eke out a living. Nyangatom women can wear up to 8 kg (17 lb) of beads, which they don’t remove. A young girl gets her first strand of beads from her father, and adds more every year.

Life isn’t easy in the lower reaches of Ethiopia’s South Omo Zone.

This is a harsh environment: an arid region with low annual rainfall, where indigenous groups have mastered flood-retreat agriculture on the banks of the Omo River. For generations, a number of distinct ethnic groups have managed to hold onto their languages and cultures, engaging in a semi-nomadic, predominantly pastoral lifestyle on their traditional grazing and agricultural lands.

Roads are poor, infrastructure is virtually non-existent, and towns are few and far between. This very remoteness has allowed sixteen discrete tribal groups from three different language-families to maintain their traditions. One of these groups, the Nilo-Saharan Nyangatom, arrived in the Omo Valley from northern Uganda about 150 years ago.

Thought to number about 30,000 people across South Sudan and Ethiopia, the Nyangatom have a reputation for being aggressive, and conflicts between themselves and neighbouring tribes are not uncommon. The village I visited on the west bank of the Omo River was on contested lands that were reputedly taken from the Kara people in bloody battle (see: Goats and Guns at Sunset).

I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour. We were staying in a mobile campsite in Kara territory, organised and set up Grand Holidays Ethiopia. To reach this site, we had driven some distance off the last bitumen road, bouncing across what looked like jungle-clad walking trails. Even in our four-wheel drives, we had to stop periodically to negotiate with fallen trees.

From our campsite, we set off in the relative cool of an equatorial pre-dawn to travel up the river in an outboard boat. After about 40 minutes, we pulled up onto a muddy shore, and then walked about half an hour across a cracked and barren landscape, with little growing except thorn trees.

That is where we found the Nyangatom village.

As I said: these tribes are remote!

Portrait: Ethiopian boat driver on the Omo River.

Boat Driver on the Omo River
The sun is barely sneaking over the horizon as we make our way up the Omo River from Dus Village.

Pre-dawn on the Omo River, Ethiopia

On the River
Once our noisy motor is turned off, the river falls back into stillness and silence.

Dried and cracked Omo River flood plain, Ethiopia

Nyangatom side of the River
This is territory the Kara people still believe is theirs; picturing their lush green river-side crops (see: Environmental Portraits), I think the Kara got the better end of the deal!

Nyangatom man with a herd of donkeys, Omo River, Ethiopia

Nyangatom Donkey Herd
As we approach the village, the herdsmen are taking animals out to pasture. This was the first time in the Omo that I saw a herd of donkeys. The Nyangatom use them for haulage and transport – especially when they are moving camp.

Zebu cattle, Nyangatom village, Omo River, Ethiopia

Zebu Cattle
Further south along the river, large livestock are at extreme risk from sleeping sickness carried by tse tse flies, so large herds of cows there are rare. The Nyangatom are higher up here, and had a great number of humped zebu cattle – well adapted to withstand the local climate.

Portrait: Nyangatom Youth, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Nyangatom Youth
In the cool morning air, most people carry a blanket for warmth – …

Portrait: Nyangatom Youth, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Nyangatom Boy
… or at the very least, a length of woven cloth to act as a scarf.

Portrait: Nyangatom Boy, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Nyangatom Boy-Child
The children love posing …

Portrait: Nyangatom Boy, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Nyangatom Boy in a Blanket
… for the various cameras …

Blond woman with two Nyangatom children, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Showing the Kids their Pictures
… and they love seeing the results. The tribal groups in the Omo Valley know that their appearance is of marketable value: in many places, you ‘Pay per Click’. In this village, however, our guide had negotiated a fixed price for the whole village. This gave us much more freedom to wander, and to interact with people more naturally.

Women and children in a Nyangatom kraal, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Nyangatom Kraal
The homes in the settlement are surrounded by a thorn-bush fence. The cattle have their own section of kraal – as do the other animals. Children are everywhere!

Portrait: Nyangatom Woman, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Nyangatom Woman
Nyangatom men are polygamous, with each wife having her own woven beehive hut.

Nyangatom Woman and her beehive hut, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Nyangatom Woman and her House
The flat earth between the beehive huts is neatly swept.

Portrait: Nyangatom Woman, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Bangles and Beads
Bracelets seem as popular as beads. You can see an example of scarring for beautification on this woman’s arms …

Portrait: Nyangatom Woman, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Woman in a Headband
… and this woman’s forehead. Some of the beaded necklaces are quite chunky!

Portrait: Nyangatom man, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Young Nyangatom Man
The oldest married Nyangatom man is the uncontested head of his family group. He does not have his own home: he stays with one of his wives. Younger men tend to marry in order of seniority, but even once they are married, the eldest is still the ‘owner’ of all the livestock and children. Other family members have ‘rights of use’, according to their place in the extended family.

Goats around a thorn tree, Nyangatom village, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Village Goats

Portrait: Nyangatom man sitting, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

A Stool and a Calabash
All across the Omo Valley, calabash gourds are hollowed out and dried, and used for drinking and for carrying water. I think this one was filled with fermented sorghum mash.

Portrait: Nyangatom Woman, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Woman in a Sheet
In a community with a subsistence lifestyle, every purchased product is at a premium: blankets, sheets, and shop-bought clothing around the village are all well-worn.

Man and woman squatting outside a Nyangatom home, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Outside Nyangatom Homes
Men in each tribal group have a slightly different style of wooden stool, which doubles as a head-rest. They carry these around wherever they go. Women squat or sit on the ground.

Portrait: Nyangatom Woman in a doorway, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Woman in Red White and Blue
Houses are dark, and the doorways are small and low. Like many other Nyangatom, this woman has facial scars and a small lower-lip plug.

Portrait: Nyangatom man, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Man in Green
Of course, you never quite escape the outside world! Mobile phones are an essential – …

Two Nyangatom men with guns, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Men with Kalashnikovas
… as are the AK-47s that are needed to protect/raid livestock and territory. The Nyangatom people were the first to be armed with modern weaponry, which they brought into the region from neighbouring South Sudan.

Portrait: Nyangatom old man with ritual scars, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Old Man with Ritual Scars
Not all scarring is decorative. When a Nyangatom man kills an enemy, his upper body is cut to release any bad blood. This elder took great pride in his badges of honour.

It wasn’t long after meeting this elder that – as we were in the process of leaving the village – we visitors were all corralled by a young herder with his automatic rifle over a misunderstanding about money. 

It was very surreal, and, at first I didn’t have the sense to be particularly worried. Fortunately, although the young man was quite serious, our guide was able to persuade him that we had duly paid all requisite fees (quite publicly) to the village elders for distribution.

The people here are under increasing pressure. Like the other tribes in the Lower Omo Valley, the Nyangatom have had to wrestle with the changing environment, and to fight against their neighbours, to carve out and maintain a place.

Text: Take only PicturesEncroaching ‘civilisation’ – especially in the form of a giant dam up-stream that is changing the way the river behaves – is putting their whole lifestyle at risk. 

This is a different world to the one I live in!

Who knows how much longer their world can survive.

Until next time!

Uluru from Imalung lookout, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru from the Hill
The hot air sings, the clouds roll, and Uluru stands out on the horizon almost 25 kilometres (15 miles) away from the Imalung Lookout in Yulara, Northern Territory. Even at this distance, it is thrilling! (iPhone6)

It is one of those iconic images: one of the world’s largest monoliths rising out of a sea of gravelly sand, with colours all along the red spectrum, ever changing in the light.

Uluru

Sacred to the Indigenous Anangu people, this giant sandstone rock formation was said to have been created in the very beginning of time by ancestral heroes (Tjukuritja). According to modern scientific reckoning, Uluru and Kata Tjuta – two significant geological features in the middle of Australia’s Red Centre – started to form about 550-600 million years ago.

My breath caught in my throat every time I looked up and saw it there.

Much as I had always wanted to visit this region, it’s a long way from anywhere: Australia is a BIG place. And, it’s not a cheap trip: it’s been called the most expensive destination in Australia – and Australia is an expensive place to live and travel by world standards. We had always put that trip off: we said we’d go when we were too old to fly overseas…

Then, Covid-19 happened, and the rest of the world was off-limits.

I found a package deal to the Ayers Rock Resort – the easiest way to access Uluru and Kata Tjuta – and managed to fit it in between lock-downs. Owned by the Indigenous Land and Sea Corporation, the resort comprises almost the whole outback town of Yulara, and sits a ten minute drive from the entry to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Uluru-Kata Tjuta (formerly the Uluru (Ayers Rock – Mount Olga)) National Park. The resort works in affiliation with the local Anangu people, as well as hosting training initiatives for Indigenous people from around the country.

Although there are a range of accommodation types in the complex, most of these were not operating when I was there because of the Covid-related slowdown in trade. And, the Anangu Cultural Centre was closed to protect the vulnerable local community from potential infection. (All the Indigenous employees on site were from other parts of the country). Fortunately, the restaurants, shops, galleries, and the Yulara Visitor Centre – home to the local tourism operators – were all operating, allowing me to fill my short stay with a range of activities.

Best of all, several of these activities were on-site, and included in my tariff!

My package included the mesmerising Field of Lights installation, making for a magical introduction to Uluru on arrival. I decided to save my separate sunrise excursions: into the Walpa Gorge at Kata Tjuta, and around the base of Uluru (Watch this space!), until I had acclimatised. So, I booked a sunset camel ride for my second evening, and spent my first full day just exploring the resort and immediate surrounds. 

This meant checking out the lookout five minutes from my room; taking in a talk on bush tucker; watching a demonstration of Yidaki, the traditional Aboriginal term for the didgeridoo; and joining a guided walk around the plants in the village.

Join me:

Entry decor, Sails in the Desert, Yulara NT Australia.

Sails in the Desert
The whole resort complex blends in beautifully with the surrounding landscape. (iPhone6)

Sturt

Sturt’s Desert Pea – Swainsona Formosa
Named for the notable explorer of inland Australia, Captain Charles Sturt (1795-1869), Sturt’s Desert Pea is confined to Australia, occurring in arid woodlands and on open plains. I had never seen them in their natural habitat before, and was thrilled to find them in flower.

Footprints in the Red Sand, Yulara NT Australia

Footprints in the Red Sand
I went for a morning walk around town, and crossed the road to the Imalung Lookout. Clearly, I was not the first to climb the little hill! (iPhone6)

Twisted trunks of desert oaks, Yulara NT Australia

Nature’s Sculpture
Bent and twisted trunks of desert oaks (Allocasuarina decaisneana) are littered against the waves of sand. (iPhone6)

desert oaks, Yulara NT Australia

Desert Oaks in the Red Centre
In the middle of the day, I headed back out to the open area across from the resort, where skinny desert oaks are scattered against the red sands and spinifex.

Mature desert oak, Yulara NT Australia

Desert Oak and a Blue Sky
Slow growing Allocasuarina decaisneana trees put their initial energy into a tap-root that can reach subterranean water at depths of over 10 metres (33 ft).

Bush tucker plants laid out on white basket, Arkani Theatre, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Bush Tucker
In the amphitheatre area outside the Arkani Theatre, local food-plants are laid out ahead of the daily Indigenous Bush Food Experience.

Bush tucker plants laid out on white basket, Arkani Theatre, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Ficus Brachypoda – Australian Native Fig

Bush tucker plants laid out on white basket, Arkani Theatre, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Plant Products
Local plants go into things other than foodstuffs – including the shampoos, soaps, and body lotions used all around the resort.

Bush tucker plants laid out on white basket, Arkani Theatre, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Kurrajong – Brachychiton
The seeds of the kurrajong are roasted and eaten or ground up to make flour. The rest of the plant is also used – especially to make rope and twine.

Portrait: Aboriginal man in a felt hat, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Leon
Leon talks us through the local bush foods …

Portrait: Young woman employee, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Cooking with Native Flavours
… while his companion mixes up a batch of Lemon Myrtle and Wattleseed Shortbread.

Male and female employees giving a bush tucker talk, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

In the Amphitheatre
Leon talks about the local environment; his companion finds a batch of cookies prepared earlier.

Hand holding a witchetty grub and a branch from a witchetty bush, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Witchetty Grub and Witchetty Bush (Acacia Kempeana)
Probably the best-known bush-tucker is the fat, white, wood-eating larvae of several moths.

View of Kata Tjuta through desert oaks, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Desert Oak and Kata Tjuṯa
When I walk back across the resort, the boulders of Kata Tjuṯa are just visible, some 50 kilometres (30 miles) across the plain.

Man in black playing a didgeridoo, Resort Town Square Lawn Stage, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Didgeridoo – Yidaki
After lunch, I find the Resort Town Square Lawn Stage, where the twice-daily Didgeridoo Workshop is taking place.

Portrait: Man in black playing a didgeridoo, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Didgeridoo Player
‘Didgeridoo’ is a non-Aboriginal word for a traditional wind instrument originally from East Arnhem Land in the very north of Australia. Made from naturally occurring termite-hollowed trunks of young eucalyptus trees, the instruments are now common across Aboriginal communities.

Portrait: Man in black holding a didgeridoo, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Man in Black
Using a technique of circular breathing to create a drone, the different sounds are made by continuously vibrating one’s lips.

Portrait: Aboriginal man holding leaves, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

Garden Walk
In the late afternoon, we meet Leon again, and he walks around the complex on one of the Guided Daily Walks, showing us the various plants …

Man

Collecting Seeds
… and describing their uses.

White-Plumed Honeyeater in a desert oak tree, Ayers Rock Resort NT Australia.

White-Plumed Honeyeater – Ptilotula penicillata
Leon also identified the birds I found in a desert oak tree.

I loved how the whole resort complex works together with the local environment. This harmony added to my experience of calm while I was in this magical place.

Text: Take only PicturesIt was time for me to return to my room and get ready to meet my camel for my sunset ride. Even there, the desert colours reminded me where I was.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 23-24October2020