Early morning shadows over Early morning shadows over Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Campsite in Wadi Rum
I’m not a morning person – but when you go to sleep in a Bedouin tent in the shadows of the towering red rocks of Wadi Rum, getting up early to explore is the only option!

Everyone I know who had ever visited Wadi Rum in the south of Jordan has come away awestruck.

As did I.

It is the most extraordinary landscape: steep sandstone cliffs rising tall and textured out of a flat sandy valley with colours changing every moment from warm yellows and rusty browns through to the more striking and dominant pinks and reds. Petroglyphs, inscriptions, and archaeological ruins give witness to 12,000 years of human occupation, and today the area is scattered with goat-hair tents, corrugated iron structures, and small villages of concrete houses. The 74,180 hectares (183,300 acres) of unique, UNESCO-World Heritage listed desert landforms comprising the Wadi Rum Protected Area (WRPA), is dotted with Bedouins, dressed in thoab – long flowing cotton robes, wearing red-and-white checkered keffiyeh scarves on their heads, and riding or leading their dromedary camels.

This was where British Army Colonel T. E. Lawrence – later known to the world as Lawrence of Arabia – was based during the First World War and the Arab Revolt of 1916–1918. The descriptions of this landscape in his book the Seven Pillars of Wisdom verge on poetry. The movie Lawrence of Arabia (1962) is drawn from that autobiographical book, and filmed in this very place. Who can forget those stunning visuals! The desert itself is alive with character. Remnants of Lawrence’s time here remain across the landscape – adding to the rich and complex history of the region.

Wadi Rum is one of Jordan’s most popular tourist attractions, and I was thrilled to be able to visit. Like many, I had been entranced by the desert as a child. I was mesmerised by the flowing sands and the expanses of space and sky depicted in the movie – which I was allowed to watch with my parents at a drive-in as a youngster when it first came out because were were learning about ‘Arabia’ in school. While I certainly didn’t understand the plot details or the subtleties of character, I was captivated enough to later read a biography of T. E. Lawrence’s life, and to watch the movie many more times.

I was travelling with a small group, and our base was one of the several semi-permanent tent and bubble-pod campsites nestled into the bottom of the escarpments and managed by the local Zalabieh Bedouins. The timing of my trip was exceptionally lucky: on the day of our arrival into the wadi – a valley, ravine, or channel that is dry except during heavy rains – we experienced a rain- and hail-shower, which made the red sands even more dramatic (see: Desert Rains and the Seven Pillars of Wisdom). Given that Wadi Rum receives only 14 days of rain each year, this was a real treat!

I was certainly looking forward to exploring further.

A waning gibbous moon over Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan

A Waning Gibbous Moon over Wadi Rum
When I peaked out of my tent at 0630 in the morning, an almost-full moon was still over the mountains opposite my campsite.

Early morning shadows over Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Morning over Wadi Rum
I climbed up the escarpment behind my tent and the autumn sky got lighter very quickly. Wet patches still sat on the sandy ground from the rains the afternoon before.

Rough rocks in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Rough Rocks in the Wadi
Wadi Rum is sometimes called the Valley of the Moon because of its rugged landscape. It has been the setting for a number of movies – especially for science fiction films purportedly set on Mars.

Personal bubble accommodation, Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Personal Bubble
Accommodation domes inspired by The Martian – which was one of many movies filmed here – allow views of the surrounding mountains and the normally clear, starry night skies.

Dromedary camels resting on the red sands of Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camels Waiting
Dromedaries are so ubiquitous in this region …

Dromedary camels resting on the red sands of Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camels in the Wadi
… that they are commonly known as Arabian camels. These are waiting for tourists.

Portrait: Bedouin man in a Keffiyeh with a cigarette, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Smoke Break
The word bedouin comes from the Arabic badawī, meaning “desert dweller”. There are six Bedouin tribes that still live around here: many operate a variety of tourism ventures.

Tourists on the back of open trucks, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Desert Transport
The wadi seems to go on forever, and there are no set roads. Bedouin 4x4s are on hand to make their own tracks and ferry tourists around.

Portrait: Two Bedouin men, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Bedouin Drivers
I couldn’t resist a quick picture of our drivers …

Dromedary camels resting on the red sands of Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camels in the Wadi
… when we arrived at another camp …

Dromedary camels and tourists, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camel Rides
… where camel wait and groups of tourists come and go.

Young Bedouin men, tourists and camels, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Young Men in a Big Landscape
That sky! And, the dramatic mountains of the wadi stretch out forever.

Portrait: Two young Bedouin men, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Young Camel Handlers
The red keffiyeh scarf is traditional to many parts of the Southern Arabian Peninsula. It has historically been worn by Bedouins to represent the red of the Arabian deserts.

Tourists camel-riding in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Tourists in the Wadi
Finally, it is our turn! It might be a bit kitsch and touristy, but I do love a camel ride. (iPhone6)

Tourists camel-riding in Wadi Rum, Jordan

A Group of Riders in the Wadi
There is fair gap between us and the group of tourists in front of us.

Camel tracks in the red sand of Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camel Tracks
It is actually not that easy handling bulky digital SLR cameras from camelback!

Landscape in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Morning Sun on the Sands
The colours change every minute in the shifting light. This landscape is so large, it dwarfs us all.

Tourists camel-riding towards Wadi Rum Village, Jordan

Coming into Town
After a short while, Wadi Rum Village comes into view in the distance.

A rider and extra camel, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Taking Camels Back to the Camps
As we approach the small town, other camels are led back into the protected area. In some spots, the granite rock shows through the sandstone cliffs.

Young Bedouin man, tourists and camels, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camels and Handler
I always find the hardest part of a camel ride is the dismount!

Camel portrait, Wadi Rum, Jordan

Camel Portrait
I get one last close up of my camel before getting back into the air-conditioned bus that has been waiting for us here, just outside the WRPA.

A Bedouin walking with three camels, Wadi Rum Village, Jordan

Wadi Rum Village

Refurbished locomotive, Wadi Rum Railway Station, Jordan

Train Engine
Our last stop before leaving this magnificent area was along the Ottoman-built Hejaz Railway, where a refurbished locomotive harks back to the origins of the modern Middle East: …

Poster inside Inside Wadi Rum Railway Station, Jordan

Inside Wadi Rum Railway Station
… the year was 1916, and T. E. Lawrence was assisting his Bedouin allies stage the Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire.

It was a sublime experience – taking me back to memories of childhood, and magical desert dreams.

No wonder everyone is in awe of this magnificent landscape!

Photos: 15October2019

Nepali woman cleaning tumbled bricks, Changunarayan Temple, Nepal

One Brick at a Time
Rebuilding the earthquake-ravaged UNESCO-listed Changunarayan Temple in Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley is a labour-intensive exercise.

The historical inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley in Central Nepal are the Newar (Newari) people.

The region sits at the crossroads of Indian and Tibetan culture, and while the people speak a Tibeto-Burman language, their culture has been strongly influenced by Indian religious and social institutions.

Most Newari people – over 80% – identify as Hindu, but Siddhartha Gautama, the Lord Buddha, was born at nearby Lumbini in 623 B.C, and Nepal was a centre of Buddhism until 880 A.D. Across the 2000 years that the two religions have had influence in the country, there has been a great deal of intermingling of Hindu and Buddhist traditions, woven together with a continued presence of older, animistic beliefs. Today it is not uncommon for people of both faiths to worship at the same temples.

The UNESCO World Heritage Convention has recognised that: both [Hindu and Buddhist] religions prospered in Nepal and produced a powerful artistic and architectural fusion beginning at least from the 5th century AD, but truly coming into its own in the three hundred year period between 1500 and 1800 AD. This recognition has led to temples, shrines, and other buildings in seven Monument Zones’ in the Kathmandu Valley being heritage-listed for their representation of Newari cultural traditions and outstanding craftsmanship.

The seven sites include the Durbar Squares of Kathmandu (see: Durbar Square, Kathmandu), Patan (see: Patan: Valley of Devotion and Feeding Birds and Rebuilding Ruins), and Bhaktapur (see: Living Heritage and Earthquake Ruins); the Buddhist temples of Boudhanath (see: Boudhanath) and Swayambhunath (see: Prayers, Rains, and Ruins); and the Hindu temple of Pashupati (see: Faith, Faces, and Fakes).

The seventh site is perhaps lesser-know to foreign visitors: the Hindu temple in the municipality of Changunarayan (Changu Narayan) in Bhaktapur District, a short distance due east of Kathmandu.

The two-storey roofed Changunarayan Temple stands on a high plinth of stone and is built in what has been described as a distinctly Nepali style. It is considered to be the oldest temple in Nepal, and houses a stone inscription pillar erected in 464 AD by the first historical king of Licchavi (present-day Nepal) King Manadeva. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, and is dotted with fifth-century stone inscriptions related to this blue God of the Hindu Trimūrti. The main temple and surrounding buildings are decorated with fine examples of Newari stone, wood, and metal craftsmanship. I was particularly taken by the ceramic tiles – which I have seen more often in North Indian architecture.

Unfortunately, the April 2015 Nepal earthquake did enormous damage to the ancient buildings here, as it did to much of the rest of the country. When I visited in 2017, broken buildings and piles of bricks were still all around.

Somehow, in spite of the damage, and the hardships they must have been suffering, the people were still smiling. One back-breaking load of bricks at a time, they were busy rebuilding their homes and precious temples.

Man on a walkway outside Changunarayan Temple complex, Nepal

Sign Posting
Outside the Changunarayan Temple complex, we can look east towards Nagarkot, and down the hill to the municipality of Changunarayan.

Man and woman putting old bricks into a wheelbarrow, Changunarayan, Nepal

Rubble in a Barrow
Fallen bricks from tumbled buildings are all around.

People repairing a ruined building, Changunarayan, Nepal

Rebuilding
Rebuilding involves a lot of manual labour – but there is no shortage of people pitching in.

Newari woman seated outside a house in a street, Changunarayan, Nepal

Woman in the Street
In the streets, people sit and take time out …

Woman washing dishes outside a house in a street, Changunarayan, Nepal

Washing in the Street
… or get on with their daily tasks.

Woman washing dishes outside a house in a street, Changunarayan, Nepal

Washing Dishes

Portrait: Newari woman in a street, Changunarayan, Nepal

Woman in Red

Sunapati Thanka Painting School, Changunarayan, Nepal

Sunapati Thanka Painting School
The Mandir Walkway runs from the eastern gate up to the temple area. Traditional Buddhist and Hindu thangkas (tangkas, thankas, or tankas) and geometric mandalas are on sale.   

Close up: Hand painting a thangka, Changunarayan, Nepal

Painting a Thanka
Thangkas and mandalas are visual representations of the universe. They serve as a guide on the spiritual journey to enlightenment.

Portrait: Smiling woman with her unfinished mandala, Changunarayan, Nepal

Painting Student
Thangkas and mandalas follow strict guidelines around colours, proportions, and geometric patterns. Painting them takes skill, patience, and practice. The school here attracts students from around the world.

Portrait: Newari woman outside a marionette shop, Changunarayan, Nepal

Shop Keeper
Newari people are known for their fine craftsmanship, so the walking street is lined with fascinating shops.

Carved Hindu masks, shopfront, Changunarayan, Nepal

Gods and Demons
Carved Hindu masks of some of the more popular deities are among the items on sale.

Portrait: Man and Child, Changunarayan, Nepal

Man and Child
The street is also lined with locals, happy to chat …

Portrait: Old woman, Changunarayan, Nepal

Old Woman
… and engage with our cameras.

Napali woman seated with a book, Changunarayan, Nepal

Studying Ayuvedic Herbal Science
At the top of the road, I came across a woman studying her Ayuvedic herbal medicine text. While the book was written in Nepali, it included the Latin names, so I learned that the leaves she was working with come from the the sal tree (shorea robusta). In Nepal, the sal tree is a major commercial timber used in construction. The leaves, seeds, and resin also have multiple uses.

Portrait: Newari woman outside a home, Changunarayan, Nepal

Newari Woman in Red
Like many of the people I met, she had relatives working and studying in Australia, and we chatted for a while.

Changunarayan Temple with scaffolding, Nepal

Roof Repairs
Changunarayan Temple sits atop a hill, at an elevation of 1543m (5062ft). Considered to be the oldest temple in the country, Changunarayan is dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu. It was badly damaged by the earthquake in 2015, and repairs were ongoing when we visited. 

Roof strut depicting Vishnu, Changunarayan Temple, Nepal

Roof Strut
Fortunately, the roof struts with their wonderfully intricate carvings depicting the 10 incarnations of Vishnu have survived …

Stone Deity, Changunarayan Temple, Nepal

Stone Deity
… as have the magnificent wooden and stone carved reliefs that decorate the outside of the buildings.

Small Changunarayan Temple buildings, Nepal

Inside Changunarayan Temple 
The small Chhinnamasta Temple in the courtyard of Changunarayan Temple honours the goddess Chhinnamasta Devi.

Colourful tiles and votive candles, Changunarayan Temple, Nepal

Colourful Tiles
The shrines in the temple complex are interesting, …

Nepali people moving building materials on the roof of a temple, Changunarayan, Nepal

Moving Materials on the Roof
… but I was actually more interested in watching all the people hard at work repairing their precious heritage.

Nepali woman with a basked on her back and a head strap, Changunarayan, Nepal

A Heavy Load
Using head straps, the women transport load after load …

Nepali woman with a basked on her back and a head strap, Changunarayan, Nepal

Wooden Stairway
… up and down the stairs.

Portrait: Nepali woman with a basked on her back and a head strap, Changunarayan, Nepal

The Next Load
Masks against the dust and cotton gloves are all that count as protective equipment.

Nepali woman cleaning tumbled bricks, Changunarayan Temple, Nepal

Cleaning Bricks
This was pre-covid: that mask is meant to protect the wearier against the brick dust generated as she cleans tumbled bricks.

Three men on a rooftop, Changunarayan Temple, Nepal

Engineers on the Roof
On top of one of the buildings, men from The Heritage and Environment Conservation Foundation Nepal, which auspiced the repairs, check out the work.

According to the Atlas Obscura, the repair works were finished by November – that is, eight months after these pictures were taken.

Sign-Off-Namaste

Clearly all that hard, personal labour paid off!

Until next time,

Namaste!

Photos: 14March2017

Conifers low over a walking path, Merricks Victoria, Australia

Shaded Rail Trail
Warm enough in the winter sun, and soft with pine needles underfoot, the converted railway line between Merricks and Red Hill, Victoria, is a pleasure to walk.

Melbourne’s Mornington Peninsula is the very best of boutique backyards!

Part of Metropolitan Melbourne, this magical peninsula just over an hour south of the city centre is home to history (see: Point Nepean National Park), wild places, cool-climate vineyards, and countless farm-to-table restaurants. 

Last winter I managed to squeeze a visit to the region between Covid-19 lockdowns: while we have all been doing it tough, Melbourne shut down six times for a total of 267 days. At one point it was leading the world for the dubious status of having the most cumulative time in lockdown.

When I was there, restaurants were still operating on strict Covid spacing rules, so I had to make sure to think ahead and book my lunch and dinner spots carefully. What a good excuse to plan my day around food! Fortunately, the local tourism authority (Mornington Peninsula) produces a terrific map which includes a variety of walks, so I could earn my meals. After all, the best place to be during a pandemic is out of doors.

One of the walks I enjoyed was the thirteen kilometres (8 mi) up-and-back the Red Hill Rail Trail. Once upon a time this was a railway line, taking fresh apples and other farm produce to the markets in Melbourne. The line closed in 1953, and eventually was reclaimed as an equestrian, walking, and cycling trail. 

The next day, I sampled more local wine and produce at Foxeys Hangout before taking a short (2 km; 1.2 mi) afternoon stroll around Endeavour Fern Gully, the 27-hectare (66 acre) National Trust property preserving the last pocket of the Mornington Peninsula’s original lush rainforest habitat.

Join me for a couple of walks in very different vegetation zones:

Walking track signposts, Merricks Victoria, Australia

Signposts
Naturally, I didn’t see this sign until after I had parked my car at Merricks General Wine Store. Still, I was planning to eat there later!

Close-up: pine needles, Merricks Victoria, Australia

In the Pines
A thick growth of pine trees keeps the track shaded and soft with fallen needles underfoot.

Rows of bare vines, Merricks Victoria, Australia

Winter Vines
This is cool-climate wine country, growing pinot noir and chardonnay in particular. But, it is winter: the vines are trimmed back and nothing is growing at the moment.

Dog walkers on the Merricks - Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Dog Walkers
It is a Sunday: everyone is out with their dogs.

Close-up: yellow wattle in flower, Merricks - Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Australian Green and Gold
A number of wattle varieties flower in autumn and winter, so the bush is always colourful.

Horse riders, Merricks - Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Shared Pathway
Although most path-users are on foot, there are a number cycling, and a few on horseback.

Horse grazing, Merricks - Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Paddocks
Horses graze in nearby paddocks. I’m told there is a deer farm near here; I didn’t see it.

Pittosporum berries, Merricks - Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Pittosporum Berries

Vines and poles against a blue sky, Merricks - Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Vines and Poles
I love the patterns made by the bare vines against the sky.

Mural of a locomotive, Red Hill, Victoria, Australia

Red Hill Mural
At the turning-point of my walk, I come across the mural on the side of the Red Hill Trading Company depicting the old steam locomotive that operated this rail line.

Willie wagtail in the pittosporum, Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Willie Wagtail – Rhipidura Leucophrys
On the walk back, I try to catch the little Willie wagtail – Australia’s largest fantail – chirping in the pittosporum.

Path into a pine wood, Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Pine Forest
The shadows have lengthened in the tall pine forest … 

Fallen log, Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Fallen Log
… and the fallen logs are left to nurture the darkening ground.

Fairy mushroom, Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Fairy Mushroom
Apparently these are quite common, but I only know them from children’s story books, so I was enchanted.

Eastern yellow robin, Red Hill Rail Track, Victoria, Australia

Eastern Yellow Robin – Eopsaltria Australis
Birds are not my forté, so I was happy to spot this little fellow – and even more thrilled to get a photo!

Grassy entry to Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Into Endeavour Fern Gully
The start of the 2 kilometre (1.2 mi) walk around Fern Gully was a bit vague and very wet. I was glad to be bearing sturdy shoes.

Elevated walkway around Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Walkway around Endeavour Fern Gully
Once I was into the property, the elevated walkway was easy to navigate, …

Fern information sign, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Fern Information
… and well marked with interpretive signage.

Tree ferns, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Path in the Ferns
It was lush, and cool, and quite magical!

Close-up: temperate-climate fern frond, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Fern Patterns
I was entranced by the patterns in the tough, but delicate looking ferns …

Detail: manna gum trunk, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Manna Gum – Eucalyptus Viminalis
… and by the colours in the tall gum trunks.

Detail: peeling ribbon gum, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Peeling Bark
It is for good reason that manna gums are also called ribbon gums.

Gum Forest, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Gum Forest
Dappled light plays with the patterns on the tree trunks.

Detail: green moss on stringybark trunk, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Messmate Stringybark – Eucalyptus Obliqua
Long shadows allow mosses and lichens to flourish.

Gum Forest, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Tall Trees
There was a time when most of Mornington Peninsula was covered with indigenous bushland like this.

Gum Leaves in the Sun

Yellow wildflower, Endeavour Fern Gully, Red Hill Victoria, Australia

Murnong Yam Daisy?
I took this photo as I was leaving Fern Gully because I thought it was a Murnong yam daisy – a popular Indigenous bush tucker – but now I’m not so sure. It might just be a dandelion!

Wildflower or weed?

To me it is all the same, in the search for light, patterns, and colours.

It is all natural beauty – and in the picturesque Mornington Peninsula, it is all around: preserved and yet accessible.

Until next time, 

Tread softly!

Pictures: 20-21June2021 

Train going into a tunnel on the Flåmsbana, Norway

A Tunnel on the Flåmsbana
It is only a 20.2-kilometer (12.6 mi) trip, but the rail descent from Myrdal, Norway, to Flåm in the valley below, takes in 20 tunnels and some magnificent scenery.

Norwegian tourism sites are quick to tell you that a trip on the Flåmsbana – the Flåm Railway – is one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, and it certainly is impressive!

I love train travel, and European trains are an absolute treat.

The Flåm Railway line takes less than an hour each way, but it is one of Norway’s most popular attractions, and has earned its mention in Lonely Planet and National Geographic travel guides.

The Flåmsbana is an engineering marvel that took 20 years to build. First opened in 1941, the 20.2-kilometers (12.6 mi) of winding standard-gauge track comprises 20 tunnels – many of which were built by hand, and some of which house the Flåm River, rather than the train itself. With a top gradient of 5.5 percent (1:18), it is one of the steepest adhesion-type railways in the world, and is the steepest standard-gauge railway in Europe.

As the the train drops 866 meters (2,841 ft) between its endpoints at Myrdal, a stop along the Bergen – Oslo line, and the tiny village of Flåm, which sits at sea level in the valley below, it winds through a jaw-dropping landscape of steep-sided mountains, picturesque hamlets, and stunning waterfalls.

Come ride the rails with me!

Myrdal Railway Station, Norway

Myrdal Railway Station
The Flåm train timetable dovetails with the train service that runs between Bergen and Oslo. My starting point was Bergen; the little mountain station of Myrdal at the head of the Flåm line is just under two hours east.

Afternoon sun-flare over Myrdal Station, Norway

Sun over Myrdal Station
In my head it was Spring, but the afternoon sun angled low as we pulled out of the station. We are a long way north – 60 degrees north, to be precise – and the Norwegians call this season ‘late winter’. Indeed, there were very few signs of Spring around under the piles of snow!

Flåm River Valley from the train, Norway

Bridge Pylons
Before long, we have stunning views down into the river valley far below.

People and a train at the Kjosfossen Station, Norway

Kjosfossen Station
We emerge from our first tunnels for a photo-stop at Kjosfossen.

Kjosfossen from the train platform, Norway

Kjosfossen
The afternoon sun was not my friend! It worked against me as I tried to pick out the details around this waterfall system. The very-noisy Kjos Waterfall drops a total of 225 m (738 ft), with the longest drop being 93 m (305 ft).

Rail-Line on the hill above Kjosfossen, Norway

Rail-Line on the Hill
Looking up in the other direction, you can see the trussed rail line above, giving you an idea how far we have dropped already. Zig-zagging up on the right is the 100-year old Rallarvegen, or Navvies Road, a 20-switchback construction/access road that is now a popular cycling track.

Inside a Flåm train compartment, Norway

Back inside the Flåmsbana
The vintage train compartments are designed to look old-fashioned, but they are clean, spacious, and comfortable, with large viewing windows (little use in the many tunnels!). I have this carriage almost all to myself!

Hills and valleys, Flåmsbana, Norway

Hills and Valleys
Emerging from yet another tunnel, it is clear that we are lower down the mountain. Waterfalls are everywhere, …

Red-painted wooden buildings in a valley, Flåmsbana, Norway

Red Buildings in the Valley
… as are small settlements.

Flåmsbana train approacing a tunnel, Norway

Towards another Tunnel

Brekkefossen from the train, Flåmsbana, Norway

Brekkefossen
Another wonderful waterfall comes into view. I walked to this one the next day, as part of my stay in Flåm (see: A Walk in a Norwegian Wood).

Flåm Valley from the train, Flåmsbana, Norway

Flåmsdalen – Flåm Valley
Here at the base of the mountains and at the head of the head of the Aurlandsfjord (see: On Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord), the grass is green and the land is clearly fertile.

Flåm School from the train, Flåmsbana, Norway

Flåm Skule – Flåm School
All the buildings are tidy, and cheerfully painted to ward off the long shadows and the longer winters.

Flåm Museum, Flåm, Norway

Flåm Museum
Two days later, I was ready to get back on the train to head up the hill. I had time for a short stop at the free museum …

NSB El 9 Engine, Flåm Museum, Flåm, Norway

NSB El 9 Engine
… which outlines the history of the area and of the railroad. This is one of the retired electric locomotives originally purpose-built for the Flåm line – custom-made for steep hills and slow speeds.

Flåm from the Train
I discovered later that I took almost exactly the same pictures going up the hill as I had going down – but the midday-light was quite different. Perhaps it’s not so surprising, though: Flåm truly is a picturesque village!

Brekkefossen from the train, Flåmsbana, Norway

Brekkefossen – Again!

Trains head-to-head at Berekvam, Flåmsbana, Norway

Trains Meeting
Berekvam, roughly halfway between top and bottom, is the only point on the line with double tracks; …

Flamsbana engine, Berekvam, Flåmsbana, Norway

Modern Flåmsbana Engine
… so, this is the only place you want to see another train coming towards you! The new engines are several generations ahead of the ones we saw at the museum.

Two women in a train carriage, watching another train pass, Flåmsbana, Norway

Trains Passing

Waterfall in the valley, Flåmsbana, Norway

Waterfall in the Valley

Kjosfossen Power Station from the train station, Flåmsbana, Norway

Kjosfossen Power Station
Built during World War II, this hydroelectric power plant keeps the electric Flåm Railway running.

Flåm River Valley from the train, Norway

Pylons over the Valley

Conductor on the Vatnahalsen platform, Flåmsbana, Norway

Conductor at Vatnahalsen
The penultimate stop is at Vatnahalsen, where a number of passengers detrain for a stay at an upmarket hotel nearby.

Couple taking pictures in front of the Flåm train, Myrdal, Flåmsbana, Norway

Snaps in the Show
By the time we reach Myrdal to reconnect with the main line, a fluffy flurry of snow is falling.

No wonder the Norwegians call it ‘Late winter’!

Text: Happy Travels

But is certainly is beautiful – even in the cold.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 29April2018 and 01May2018

Ibn Tulun Mosque from the Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo Egypt

Ibn Tulun Mosque and the Mosque of Sarghatmish Framed
From the 17th-century Egyptian roof terrace of the Gayer-Anderson Museum, two of Cairo’s neighbouring mosques are so close you can almost touch them. (iPhone6)

The centre of Cairo, Egypt’s sprawling and populous ancient capital on the banks of the Nile River, is so dense with vibrant culture and UNESCO- listed history as to be overwhelming.

So, it pays to sample small sections at a time.

The Al-Sayeda Zainab Governorate is one of the city’s oldest and most crowded neighbourhoods. This district centres on – and is named for – the eponymous mosque reputedly built over the gravesite of Sayyida Zaynab, granddaughter of the Islamic prophet Muhammad.

Our focus, however, is another medieval mosque nearby. The Mosque of Ibn Tulun is almost as old, and arguably more famous. Originally built between 876 and 879 AD, this mosque – which has been restored several times – featured in the James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me, as well as in the video games Serious Sam 3: BFE and Tomb Raider: The Last Revelation.

In medieval times, it was common practice to build private homes against the outer wall of a mosque, and by the 1900s this mosque could barely be seen from the outside. In 1928, the Committee for the Conservation of Arab Monuments organised the demolition of all but two of these houses: the “House of the Cretan woman” (Bayt al-Kritliyya), built in 1632, and the adjacent Beit Amna bint Salim, built in 1540. At some point in time, a bridge between the two structures was added at the third floor level, and this combined building was considered to be worthy of protection.

After the property was restored, a retired collector and self-described ‘Orientalist’, Major R.G. Gayer-Anderson, was given permission to live in the house by the Egyptian Government. He oversaw the installation of electricity and plumbing and filled the home with some of his extensive collection of art, furnishings, and carpets. After living there between 1935 and 1942, he returned to England and gifted the house and its contents back to the government. Noted for being one of the best-preserved examples of 17th-century domestic architecture left in Cairo, and now named the Gayer-Anderson Museum, the house is open to the public, and is accessible through the outer walls of the mosque.

I was traveling in Egypt with a small group, and we had flown back from Aswan that morning (see: Boats on the Nile). Fortified by lunch at one of the Gad chain of cheap and tasty Egyptian fast-food restaurants, we set off to explore the mosque and neighbouring museum.

On a photographic note: I wasn’t allowed to use my cameras inside the museum, but for some reason, iPhones were permitted!! The lens in my old iPhone6 was a long way from the modern iterations of camera phones; even so, I hope the pictures give you an idea of the richness of the architecture and artifacts.

Men at a GAD grill, Cairo, Egypt

Fresh Fast Food
What could be better than Shawarma – hot spiced rotisseried meat, sliced with fresh salad and dressing into a warm pita wrap? (iPhone6)

View of an ancient mosque from the street, Cairo Egypt

Ancient Mosque from the Bus
From the road, you can get a sense of how these old buildings all butt up against each other.

The ziyada, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

The Ziyada
The entrance to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun takes you into a large ziyada, or empty space between the mosque and the surrounding buffer wall. On the right hand side, an entry leads into the mosque itself. The portal directly in front of us takes us into the Gayer-Anderson Museum.

Wall detail in the ziyada, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Textured Walls in the Ziyada
The walls around the space show their age – and the intricate detailing that went into their construction.

Visitors at the inner entrance to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Visitors at the Inner Entrance to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun

Metal hanging lamp, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Lamp
Everywhere you look in the Gayer-Anderson Museum, some magnificent old detail catches your eye. (iPhone6)

Detail: Wooden window lattice, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Wooden Window Lattice (iPhone6)

Ghostly reflection and a silver candlestick holder, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Ghostly “Selfie”
I’m not big on selfies, but when intricate silver artifacts are encased in glass, it is hard to avoid! (iPhone6)

Silhouetted urn in a latticed window, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Silhouetted Urn
Latticed windows look out at the crowded city around us; … (iPhone6)

Man on the phone on his terrace, from the Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Life on the Rooftops
… a city where everyday life goes on.

Inlaid chest of drawers, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Inlaid Chest of Drawers (iPhone6)

Bastet and Neferti statues in silhouette, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Bastet and Nefertiti
Guarded by a Mashrabiya screen, these backlit figures of the cat goddess Bastet and Queen Nefertiti are replicas; Gayer Anderson donated the original Late Period bronze cat to the British Museum. (iPhone6)

Replica Neferti statue in silhouette, Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

Nefertiti Bust
This replica queen is modelled on the original that has lived in the Neues Museum in Berlin since its discovery in 1912. (iPhone6)

The ziyada, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Towards the Mosque
Back in the ziyada, Ibn Tulum Mosque’s famously distinctive brick minaret with its external spiral staircase stands out.

View over Mosque of Ibn Tulun from the minarette, Cairo Egypt

Quba from the Minaret
The climb up the minaret is worth your while, affording views back over Cairo’s largest mosque, the crowded old city, and the hills beyond.

The Sarghatmish Madrasa from the minarette of Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Geometric Patterns – Sarghatmish Madrasa
The tower also gives views over other mosques, …

The Sarghatmish Madrasa from the minarette of Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Finials on the Sarghatmish Madrasa
… near …

Mosques from the minarette of Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Mosques in the Distance
… and further away.

Decorated arches inside the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Arches
The repeated arches inside the mosque are decorated with floral and geometric designs in the abbasid style.

The Quba of Mosque of Ibn Tulun framed by an arch, Cairo Egypt

Quba Framed

Portrait: Young Woman seated against a pillar, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Young Woman at the Mosque
The people who are visiting the mosque are as interesting to me as the architecture.

Kufic Calligraphy, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Kufic Calligraphy
The main mihrab – or niche indicating the qibla, the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca, is topped with the Muslim profession of faith: ‘There is no God but God’.

Portrait: three young women in hijabs, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo Egypt

Young Women
These young women were part of a university group visiting the mosque, and were a delight to chat with.

Text: Happy Travels

It is always wonderful finding locals to interact with! They bring the architecture of these ancient places to life.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 12October2019