Rock pools full of water, shells and sea creatures, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Rock Pools
It is impossible to count the number of tidal rock pools on Vancouver Island’s beautiful Botanical Beach – and each one is unique in its colours and textures.

It is nice when advertising slogans actually make sense and ring true!

British Columbia (BC), Canada’s western-most province, has coined the phrase: Super, Natural British Columbia. And it fits. Wherever you go, there are natural spaces of the most incredible beauty.

I had landed in Vancouver, and almost immediately headed for the woods and nature trails (see: Back in the Land of Tall Trees). I was lucky: some time later, I was visiting with ‘friends-in-the-know’ on Vancouver Island, off the west coast of BC. They took me to visit what used to be called Botanical Beach Provincial Park, but since 1996 has been subsumed under the larger Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. This magnificent coastal preserve is a two-hour drive from where I was staying in Victoria. It sits overlooking the Salish Sea – or the Strait of Juan de Fuca, depending on the age of your maps – and is accessed through the tiny community of Port Renfrew. Serious multi-day hikers know the locale because it is the trailhead for the celebrated Juan de Fuca Marine Trail and the historic West Coast Trail; even so, it is not an area I would have found by accident.

But, like every other corner of this remarkable province, it is a joy!

Botanical Beach, with its abundance of intertidal life, was identified as a notable location for the study of marine tidepools by Dr. Josephine Tildon from the University of Minnesota. The university set up a marine station in 1900 – but students had to travel by steamship from Victoria to Port Renfrew, and then walk a narrow and muddy trail (with all their scientific equipment) the rest of the way. A road was promised but never built, and the station closed in 1907.     

Fortunately, we were able to drive to the trail head, from whence the beach was an easy one kilometre (0.6 miles) walk!

Come for a waterfront stroll among the tidal pools.

Dappled light on skunk cabbage leaves, , Botanical Beach Provincial Park, BC Canada

Western Skunk Cabbage in the Shadows
Skunk cabbages (Lysichiton americanus) are ubiquitous in the wet spaces here. They are also monocots – which I had to look up: monocotyledons are grass and grass-like flowering plants whose seeds typically contain only one embryonic leaf, or cotyledon. Helpful, right?
The contrasts between brilliant sunlight through a clear sky and dark, damp understory of a tall forest are a challenge for the camera – and for the editing process afterwards!

Interpretive sign on the walkway, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

“Scientifically Significant”
The interpretive signage along the track provides lots of useful information.

Tall tree trunks, Botanical Beach Provincial Park, BC Canada

Tall Trees and Alectoria Sarmentosa
I have always called it Spanish Moss – silly me! Thanks to a signboard along the track to the beach, I now know it’s a witch’s-hair lichen.

The path to Botanical Beach, BC Canada

The Path
We parked near the toilets; as we were about to set off, a woman asked if we’d done the track before. “It’s very muddy and slippery!” she said. …

Walkers on the path to Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Walkers on the Path
… Lucky for us, she pointed us to a cleaner, shorter trail to the beach close by.

Green shoot of a bush on the path to Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Green Shoot in the Sun

View onto Botanical Beach from the pathway, BC Canada

Approaching Botanical Beach
It doesn’t matter how long I spend in BC where sights like this are an everyday occurance, this kind of view always takes my breath away.

Person on the sandstone waterfront, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

A Figure on the Beach
Even if you are not alone, there is a feeling of space.

Steller

Steller’s Jay in the Trees
Regularly sighted in these forests, the native Steller’s jay (Cyanocitta stelleri) was named in 1788 for Georg Steller, a naturalist who first sighted them in Alaska in 1741 from a Russian explorer’s ship.

Pockmarked sandstone waterfront, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Waves on the Rocks
The soft sandstone foreshore has been pounded by the waves of the wild Pacific Ocean, carved by boulders tossed around by water, and further detailed by purple sea urchins.

Pockmarked sandstone waterfront, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Rocks in a Tidal Pool
Ridges of shale and quartz jut up through black basalt …. It’s a pity I don’t know my basalt from my quartz!

Bull kelp on the stony beach, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Bull Kelp – Nereocystis Luetkeana
More than once on this trip, I heard stories about how the over-hunting of sea otters lead to the rise in sea urchins, and the subsequent decimation of kelp forests. This then had numerous negative flow-on effects, especially – but not restricted to – the reduction in other marine life. Scientists are currently looking at ways of restoring the balance; but what would balance look like?

Looking east ove Botanical Beach, BC Canada

The Eastern Shore
An unnamed (as far as I can ascertain) promontory marks the eastern end of Botanical Beach. In any event, the tide was coming in; it was time to work our way back!

Rock pool full of water, shells and sea creatures, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Tidal Rock Pool
Provincial Park rules prohibit the collecting or harming of any marine species (whether it is alive or not) …

Rock pool full of water, shells and sea creatures, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Another Rock Pool
… but the wonderful colours and textures make the urge to reach in and touch (almost) irresistible!

Small cave with water dripping, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

A Little Drippy Cave
Even the vertical sandstone walls have been carved into interesting shapes.

Water-filled indentations on the sandstone, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Nature’s Watercolour Pallet

Rock Pool Moonscape
The incoming tide can rise quite quickly: it is time to move on, before we lose the foreshore.

Mussels attached to a driftwood log, Botanical Beach, BC Canada

Mussels on a Log
Creatures are everywhere we look.

Salmonberry flower Botanical Beach Provincial Park, BC Canada

Salmonberry Flower
Nothing says the Pacific Northwest like the native bramble: the salmonberry (Rubus spectabilis), which will soon be covered in delicious, raspberry-like fruit.

Laurel bloom, Botanical Beach Provincial Park, BC Canada

Laurel
The laurels were also in full bloom, but I’m not so sure these are native.

Text: Take only Pictures

We were lucky: the low temperatures that had dogged the usually warm west-coast spring were ideal for walking, and the copious rains that had been mostly unrelenting all month held off long enough for us to get back to the car for the drive back home.

Super, natural, …

Indeed!

Pictures: 16May2022

Portrait:Sadhu in an orange turban and grey beard, Haridwar India.

A Penetrating Gaze
Sadhus, pilgrims, and locals alike, meet your eyes boldly in the streets of India. The county is street-portrait heaven!

India is truly a street-portrait paradise.

People are everywhere. Swathed in colourful fabrics and draped in layers of beads, they sit or stand against backgrounds of textured wash-painted buildings or rusting roller-doors, colourful ads or fading billboards. It is as if they are just waiting for an aspiring photographer to wander past! They meet your eyes unselfconsciously, and implicitly give consent to the camera lens.

This is especially true in a holy pilgrimage city like Haridwar, where the streets are full of travellers on the move. In Sanskrit, Haridwar means “The Gateway to Lord Vishnu”. Sitting on the right bank of the Ganges river – in and of itself a most sacred entity in Hindu tradition – Haridwar is one of the seven holy places (Sapta Puri) in India where Hindus can be liberated from the cycle of birth and death.

I was lucky enough to visit the city twice: the first time for the Kumbh Mela in 2010 (see: Weekly Wanders Kumbh Mela), and on this, the second occasion after the Pushkar Camel Fair (see: Weekly Wanders Pushkar) with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours.

Early one morning, I braved the November chill to wander the streets, where plenty of willing subjects greeted me and my cameras.

Balcony silhouetted, Haveli Hari Ganga, Haridwar India

The Balcony – Haveli Hari Ganga
Exploring the chaos of Indian streets can result in sensory overload very quickly! Having a centrally-located oasis to escape back to makes it manageable. (iPhone6)

Portrait: woman and child in blankets, Haridwar India

Woman and Child
It is early morning, and it is cold, but people are happy to greet me and smile for the camera.

Portrait: Old woman in a headscarf, Haridwar India

Old Woman
This elderly woman was happy to pause, …

Henna-decorated hands, Haridwar India

Hennaed Hands
… and proudly showed me her hand decorations.

Portrait: Man in a woollen hat, Haridwar India

Man in a Woollen Hat

 Portrait: Child with his tongue out, Haridwar India

Cheeky Child
Children are the same the world over!

Portrait: Man in an orange blanket, Haridwar India

Man in a Blanket
The colours in India always catch my eye – especially when they are against dark, textured backgrounds.

Portrait: Smiling man in an orange blanket, Haridwar India

Big Smile

Three men in a Haridwar street, India

In the Morning Streets
The morning light sneaks into the dark laneways where pilgrims gather to chat.

Three men walking in a Haridwar street, India

More Blankets
Who knows how far some of these pilgrims have walked?

Image of Shiva behind a screen, Haridwar India

Shiva
This is a holy city, and shrines are everywhere.

Rhesus Macaque outside a Shiva shrine, Haridwar India

Rhesus Macaque
The monkeys gather to eat the marigold offerings.

Portrait: macaque outside a Shiva shrine, Haridwar India

Rhesus Macaque – Macaca Mulatta

Women in layers of clothing, Haridwar, India

Women in the Street
People are all layered in an assortment of clothing to ward off the cold; I guess it beats carrying bags!

Portrait: Indian men in woolen hats and blankets, Haridwar

Men in Blankets
More pilgrims – wrapped up in blankets against the November morning chill – …

Indian men in woolen hats and blankets, Haridwar

Pilgrims at Rest
… rest their weary legs and walking sticks on their long journey.

Portrait:Sadhu in an orange turban and grey beard, Haridwar India.

The Eyes of a Sadhu

Portrait: Man in a long beard, Haridwar India

Man in a Long Beard
India is a country of 1.4 billion people – and they are all such individuals!

Portrait: Man in a white head wrap, Haridwar India

Waving Man
Everywhere I have been in the country, the people have been friendly and welcoming.

Lassi Shop, Haridwar, India

Lassi Shop
There are some things things that define a place: lassi – a tasty blend of yogurt, water, spices, and sometimes fruit – is so India.

Man cleaning the lassi-making equipment, Haridwar, India

Cleaning the Equipment
Raw milk is at high risk of transmitting foodborne illnesses, and this shop was taking its job of cleaning the equipment seriously.

Two shiny lassi machines, Haridwar India

Lassi Machine
This equipment was so shiny I could see the street in it!

Three men in turbans, Haridwar, India

Pilgrims
The morning light slants through the narrow streets …

Three men in turbans, Haridwar, India

Men in Turbans
… catching faces, turbans, and bare feet.
.

It was time for me to get myself some masala chai and breakfast – and to leave the pilgrims to their travels.

Until next time –

Photos: 19November2013

Bushy Needlebush – Hakea Sericea
Although it is part of Metropolitan Melbourne, it is easy to lose yourself in nature on the Mornington Peninsula.

It is very easy to find interesting and diverse walks into the woods and wetlands of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. Although it is only an hour south of Melbourne City Centre, you feel like you are a world away.

But, there is no need to rough it here: the region is also home to more farm-to-table speciality restaurants and boutique vineyards than you can possibly sample in a short stay. The accommodation I had booked for my week in the region was in a central location on the compact peninsula, making all corners accessible. Armed with a terrific map highlighting places of interest – including for shopping and eating – and describing a variety of walks (see: Mornington Peninsula), I was able to plan my time around foods I wanted to sample. 

I was staying next to the Eagle Ridge Golf Course, so I enjoyed daily morning and evening walks around the landscaped greens. I also spent time exploring the region’s history (see: A Walk into the Past) and some of the different preserved and recovered landscapes (see: Red Hill Rail Trail and Endeavour Fern Gully). 

On my fourth full day on the Mornington, I walked just over six kilometres (4 miles), out and back on the Balcombe Estuary Boardwalk beside Balcombe Creek. After this meandering stroll into saltmarsh and bushland, I returned to Mount Martha for local wine and flavoursome Italian-style wood-fired pizza made with regional produce and cheese. I think I ate much more than my walked had earned me!

On my last day, I lunched at the hatted-restaurant at Pt Leo Estate, and wandered through their Sculpture Garden (see: Pt Leo Estate). I decided to check out the nearby Coolart Homestead, and explore the wetlands there in the remains of the winter afternoon light before heading back to my room. 

Join me!

Eagle Ridge Golf Course under a winter sky, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Australia

Eagle Ridge Golf Course
My morning walks around the beautifully-landscaped golf course were a pleasure. (iPhone12pro)

Sandy Mount Martha entry to the Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Entry at Mount Martha
The hardest park of any walk is getting started! I parked on the wrong side of the estuary at first, and had to consult with locals about where best to put my car.

Rusty metal cutout of a swamp hen, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Purple Swamp Hen”
Once on the path everything is well signposted: including with metal signs letting you know what birds to look out for.

Wooden walkway, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Balcombe Boardwalk
The boardwalk makes life for mums with strollers a breeze! The walkway was in good condition, and I passed many people making use of it.

Grasses and trees reflected in Balcombe Creek, Victoria Australia

Balcombe Creek
Little detours in the walkway take you down to the water’s edge …

Cormorant and trees reflected in Balcombe Creek, Victoria Australia

Cormorant on the Creek
… where there is plenty of waterbird life to enjoy.

Evergreen leaves, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Native Scrub

Grey shrike-thrush in bush, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Grey Shrike Thrush
I’m always excited when I catch even part of a bird in the wild!

Grey shrike-thrush in bush, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Colluricincla Harmonica
Used to people here, this one sat and watched me for a while – from a safe distance.

Names written into cluster pine bark, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Graffiti on the Cluster Pine
The texture in the the cluster pine (pinus pinaster) bark allows room for people to leave their marks.

Cluster pine trunk against the sky, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Pine against the Sky
These trees, native to the Mediterranean, grow to reach 20–35 m (66-115 ft) tall.

Plastic sleeves around tree branches, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Protecting Nests
Volunteers engage in a variety of activities – including installing plastic sleeves to prevent ground-based creatures like feral cats from attacking precious hollows and nesting sites.

Close up: She oak needles, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

She Oak Needles
I love casuarinas, and I loved finding out that they were named for way their needles resemble the feathers of cassowary birds. (iPhone12pro)

Eastern yellow robin on a stump, Balcombe Creek Estuary Boardwalk, Victoria Australia

Eastern Yellow Robin – Eopsaltria Australis
Another bird! The eastern yellow robin lives only in the southeastern regions of Australia.

Coolart Homestead against a winter sky, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Coolart Homestead
Dating from 1895, this late Victorian-era family home is usually open to the public. Managed by Parks Victoria, the heritage estate is currently undergoing renovations.

Morning Flight by Heather Ellis, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Morning Flight
Ibis by local sculptor and potter Heather Ellis adorn a pond outside.

Pine cones against wild bush, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Pine Cones
A network of walking tracks criss-cross the 87.5 hectare (216 acre) property, taking in coastal woodlands, wetlands, lagoons, and formal gardens.

Stumps, trunks and undergrowth, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Like a Bear in the Woods
I followed the Woodland Walk. It was late in the day, and I imagined I saw creatures in the weathered stumps.

Trees and undergrowth, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Into the Woods
According to the website, the dominant trees here are manna gums, drooping she-oak, and coast banksia.

Trees and undergrowth, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Tree Trunks Rising

Wetlands, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Winter Light on the Wetlands
Several creeks and waterways – some of them estuarine – intersect the property, and the open waters of the Western Passage are just a short distance away.

Overgrown pathway, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Overgrown Pathway
The recent strict and lengthy lockdowns have taken their toll: clearly not many people have been able to use these pathways, and they have become quite overgrown.

Tree stump lying on the ground, Coolart Wetlands, Victoria Australia

Still Life Found
I love the natural patterns and shapes one finds in the landscape.

Eagle Ridge Golf Course under a winter sky, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Australia

Pergola : Eagle Ridge Golf Course
There is just enough light left in the winter evening sky for another stroll around the golf club before dinner. (iPhone12pro)

Truly, some very different terrains!

And, some wonderful meals between walks.

I was sorry to leave the peninsula behind!

Pictures: 22-23June2021

A woman a girl and a toddler in traditional Quechua clothing spinning wool, Ollantaytambo Peru

Spinning Wool above Ollantaytambo
Behind these women in their colourful traditional Quechua clothing, you can see the intricately fitted bricks leading up the hillside to the tambo, or inn, built during the time of Pachacutec (1438 – 1471), the ninth ruler of the Inca state.

When you are trekking at altitude in Nepal, the Sherpas will tell you: Go high, sleep lower. In the Peruvian Andes, the guiding companies seem to take the opposite approach.

Cusco, in the south-east of Peru, is the starting point for most Inca Trail tours. This little city in the Central Peruvian Andes sits at 3350 metres (2 miles) above sea level, while the surrounding towns like Pisac or Urubamba at 2,900m (9,514ft), Ollantaytambo at 2,792m (9160ft), or even Machu Picchu at 2,400m (7,874ft), are lower. So, for our first three days in the Andes, we slept high (not very well, I might add!) and toured lower.

At the time of our trip to Peru, my husband and I were living in Bangkok – which at 1.5 m (5 feet) above sea level is as low as you want to get – especially in rainy season! Fortunately, like most other Inca Trail tour companies, ours gave us two full days to acclimatise.

Cusco and its surrounds are historically and culturally fascinating, and time there is easily filled! We spent our first day walking around the city itself, and visiting the remains of Inca sites nearby (see: Cusco, Heart of the Inca Empire).

On this, our second day, we were heading a little further afield, into the Sacred Valley.

Unfortunately, the pictures that I took were on my very first little digital camera and often fall into the: ‘What was I thinking?’ category. I often can’t crop them into a more modern 2×3 format because I have filled the frame so completely. I am horrified by how many feet I have cut off!

But, they are fond memories of a unique place.

What I never could come to grips with in the region was the smell! I eventually identified it as alpaca and/or llama. It can only be described as being like rancid oil and it permeated everything, even the tap water – which we naturally were warned not to drink, but nonetheless washed in – and was especially strong in the woolen clothing worn by the local people.

Join me in Cusco’s Sacred Valley:

Llama, Awana Kancha Llama Farm, Peru

Llama
Our first stop of the day was at the Awana Kancha Llama Farm. I knew from meeting a guanaco (Lama guanicoe) in Patagonia (see: Patagonia’s Autumn Colours) that llamas weren’t the only camelids in South America,

Camelids poster, Awana Kancha Llama Farm, Peru

Camelids
… but I was surprised by the range – all of which were on display at the farm.

Llama portrait, Awana Kancha Llama Farm, Peru

Llama Portrait
They are all very affectionate – but smelly! Their soft but strong wool is known for its warmth.

Display of natural dyes, Awana Kancha Llama Farm, Peru

Natural Wool Dyes
The centre seeks to maintain and foster ancestral knowledge.

A woman in traditional Quechua clothing weaving, Awana Kancha Llama

Traditional Andean Weaving
They are working to preserve traditional techniques for the production of textiles …

A woman in traditional Quechua clothing weaving, Awana Kancha Llama Farm Peru

Young Quechua Weaver
… and to make sure that younger generations understand the meanings in the complex patterns.

Llama, Awana Kancha Llama Farm, Peru

Grazing Llama
The Awana Kancha project is an association of several communities; as well as rescuing ancestral traditions, they provide economic opportunities to hundreds of local families. The shop was full of traditional fibres made into modern products, and I couldn’t resist going home with a beautifully knitted alpaca evening cape.

Pisac and the Sacred Valley, Peru

Písaq /Pisac and the Sacred Valley
Before descending into the valley and crossing the Urubamba or Vilcamayo River, we admire the town of Pisac from above.

Pink Peruvian peppercorns, flowers and leaves, Pisac, Peru

Peruvian Pink Peppercorn Tree – Schinus Molle

Pisac Church, Peru

Pisac Church
The little church here is more modest than those we had visited in Cusco the day before!

Vegetables on a blue cloth, Pisac Market, Peru

Vegetable Market
I love the colour and chaos of village markets – and the insight they give you into local foods.

Heritage corn on a market table, Pisac Peru

Heritage Corn
A quick internet search tells me there are 55 corn varieties in Peru!

Woven woolen cloths, Pisac Market Peru

Woolen Weaves
The market is full of wonderful woven fabrics in rich colours and lively Peruvian patterns.

Colourful embroidered appliqué cloth, Pisac Market, Peru

Embroidered Appliqués

Young Quechan child, Pisac Peru

Little Cutie

Saleslady with her cheese and onion bread, Pisac Market Peru

Cheese and Onion Bread Turnovers
Fresh and hot from the clay oven, these were delicious!

Old houses of Ollantaytambo with Pinkuylluna looming behind, Peru

Ollantaytambo and Pinkuylluna
Further up the valley, we come to Ollantaytambo, which was an Inca administrative, religious, agricultural, and military complex. The mountain looming up behind is Pinkuylluna, which features grain storehouses and the face of Tunupa. It is believed that the face is natural, rather than man-made. His eyes appear to open or close depending on the light and shadows.

Sone Inca storehouses in Ollantaytambo, Peru

Storehouses
The storehouses were built out of fieldstones to keep grain. The high altitude and dry mountain air kept the produce fresh; when the Spanish arrived, the Inca had enough food stored for more than six years.

Tumbling buildings in Ollantaytambo, Peru

Ollantaytambo
The town of Ollantaytambo is home to two massive Inca ruins, those storehouses up on Pinkuylluna, and the ruins of a 15th-century fortress built by emperor Pachacuti.

Gate to the Tambo or Inn, Ollantaytambo, Peru

Gate to the Tambo or Inn
We walked up the Ollantaytambo side, to the entry gate to what was believed to be a travellers inn above the city.

Stonework around the Tambo or Inn, Ollantaytambo, Peru

Stonework
The stonework around the inn is another example of Inca precision.

Looking down over the green fields of Ollantaytambo, Peru

A Fertile Plateau
The fertile valley below us is the product of the meeting of the Patakancha and Willkanuta rivers.

Graffiti carved into cactus, Ollantaytambo, Peru

Cactus Graffiti
People the world over feel the need to leave their mark!

Houses at Ollantaytambo, Peru

Houses at Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is said to be the only remaining example of pre-Columbian urban planning. The buildings and courtyards as well as the narrow lanes have their original form.

Terraces at Ollantaytambo, Peru

Terraces at Ollantaytambo
From the bottom of the river valleys, extensive andenes, or agricultural terraces, rise all the way up the surrounding hills. They permit farming on otherwise unusable terrain, and create micro-climates, allowing farmers to grow a range of crops at different altitudes.

 

Old stone village well, Ollantaytambo, Peru

Village Well

Stairs and terraces, Ollantaytambo, Peru

More Stairs

Fertile valley around Cusco, Peru

Fertile Valley
The altitude and the stairs took their toll, and returning to Cusco, we were glad to admire the fertile valley from the comfort of our bus!

Text: ¡Salud!

It was a fascinating insight into an almost-lost culture, and helped prepare us for the trek were were about to undertake.

Until next time –

¡ Salud !

Pictures: 06April2006

Front view, Palacio de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Palacio de la Magdalena – Magdalena Palace
The Cantabrian city of Santander has some wonderful architecture. This eclectic palace was built between 1908 and 1912 on the site of an old fort on a peninsula jutting into Santander Bay. Between 1913 and 1930, it was the summer home of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. With the declaration of the Second Spanish Republic in 1931, the space was given back to the city, and still operates as a conference and meeting facility.

The little city of Santander with its sheltered natural harbour on the Bay of Biscay has a long and rich history. It is thought to have been the location of the 26 BC Roman port: Portus Victoriae Iuliobrigensium, but no definitive archaeological evidence has been found. The first documentary mention of the settlement was in 1068, although it is believed to have been inhabited much longer. By the later Middle Ages, it had become an important port for the Castile region, and was also a centre for trade with the New World, officially becoming a city in 1755.

Unfortunately, the much of the medieval city centre was razed by the Great Fire of 1941, which burned for two days and left thousands of families homeless (q.v.: My Santander).

Even so, some historical buildings remain, and walking around the edge of the old city, where it wraps itself around the Bay of Santander, is a joy – the first part of which I have documented previously (see: Art and Architecture in Santander).

I was particularly delighted to spend time on the Magdalena Peninsula, which is the site of an historic royal palace, an extensive public park, sculpture gardens, the three Cantabrian galleons which sailed in Columbus’s wake, two beaches, a lighthouse, and even a small zoo!

Join me for a lovely city walk.

Gran Casino – Plaza de Italia
This plaza, named for the Italian legionaries who helped in the Spanish Civil War, houses the Gran Casino building, designed by Santander architect Eloy Martínez del Valle (1870 – 1939) and opened in 1916.

Sheet metal sculpture of painter Enrique Gran above Playa del Camello, Santander Spain

Painter Enrique Gran (1928 – 1999)
On the coast walkways high above the Playa del Camello, two sheet-metal sculptures by Colombian artist Enrique Grau (1920 – 2004) depict and frame a local painter.

C. Juan de Borbón - Península de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Calle Juan de Borbón – Península de la Magdalena
The road into the Magdalena Peninsula is stately – as befits the royalty once housed here. It is named for Juan de Borbón y Battenberg (1913 – 1993), head of the Spanish Royal House between 1941 and 1977. Those were the days of the Second Spanish Republic under General Franco, so he never actually reigned.

Stables, Parque Juegos Magdalena, Santander Spain

Parque Juegos Magdalena – Magdalena Playground
When this was the Royal Family’s summer home, the buildings in the background were the Royal Stables – designed by Santander-born architect Javier González de Riancho (1881 – 1953) to look like an English medieval village. When the palace itself was used for summer university courses, the stables were converted to house students.

Child climbing on the Tourist Train, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Tren Turistico Peninsula de la Magdalena
A charming tourist train takes visitors around the peninsula.

Metal sculpture: En Memoria de las Víctimes del Terrorismo, Santander Cantabria Spain

En Memoria de las Víctimas del Terrorismo – In Memory of the Victims of Terrorism
In a large green space, the 2005 rusty-iron sculpture by Spanish artist Agustín Ibarrola (1930 – ) commands attention.

Parque Marino – Marine Park
Calling this a zoo – or even a mini-zoo – is a bit of a stretch, but the small collection of animals (seals, sea lions, and penguins) from Spanish territories in the New World is no doubt popular with families.

Grey seal in an outdoor pool area, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Grey Seals – Halichoerus Grypus
They are mesmerising: I spent some time watching the seals swim their laps.

Rocky animal enclosure, Parque Marino, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Seawater Splash
The park been built into the rocks of the cliff, and pumps fresh seawater into the enclosures.

Humboldt penguins, Parque Marino, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Humboldt Penguins – Spheniscus Humboldti
A pair of South American penguins made an appearance …

South American sea lions, Parque Marino, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

South American Sea Lions – Otaria Flavescens
… and the sea lions lolled around, doing very little.

La Balsa raft, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Museo El Hombre y la Mar – Man and the Sea Museum
Rather a grand title for a small area! I’m not entirely sure if this is a replica of La Balsa, or the actual raft built by Santander-born sailor, scientist, and adventurer, Vital Alsar Ramirez (1933 – 2020). After reading about the Kon-Tiki expedition, he was determined to duplicate it. In 1970, he and this raft sailed 161 days and 13,800 kilometres (8,600 miles) from Ecuador to Australia.

Original Mermaid Figurehead from the Marigalante, Muelle de las Carabelas, Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Mermaid Figurehead from the Marigalante
The museum houses three full-size replicas of Christopher Columbus’ caravels. In 1977, Ramirez sailed these ships across the Atlantic Ocean in celebration of the original 1492 – 1493 voyage.

Mouro Island from the Peninsula de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

La Isla de Mouro – Mouro Island
The views from the peninsula are beautiful – in all directions.

View up the driveway to the Palacio de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

Palacio de la Magdalena – Magdalena Palace
My walk – clockwise around the peninsula – brings me to the sprawling T-shaped royal summer residence, designed by local architects Javier González de Riancho and Gonzalo Bringas Vega (1880 – 1943). The design blends French, English, and local influences in honour of Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg (1887 – 1969), Queen Consort, wife of King Alfonso XIII of Spain, and granddaughter of of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom

El Coloso
The lawns around the palace are dotted with sculptures, like this one  …

El Coloso stone sculpture, Palacio de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

The Colossus
… in granite by contemporary Spanish artist Francisco Leiro Lois (1957 – ).

ATIOS granite sculpture, Palacio de la Magdalena, Santander Spain

ATIOS
Another granite piece installed as part of the “Sculpture 88” exhibition, is this piece by Manuel Paz Mouta (1957 – ). In the background, the metallic piece called Untitled by Tom Carr (1956 – ) is commonly referred to as Tela de Araña or ‘Cobweb’. 

Statue

Los Niños de Cantabria a Félix – Félix’s Cantabrian Children
Felix Rodriguez de la Fuente (1928 – 1980) was a Spanish naturalist and broadcaster best known for his TV show El Hombre y la TierraMan and Earth.

Fuente y Humilladero de la Virgen del Mar, Av de la Reina Victoria, Santander Spain

Fuente y Humilladero de la Virgen del Mar – Fountain and Shrine of the Virgin of the Sea
Off the peninsula and back on the Queen Victoria Avenue, Spain’s Catholicism is on prominent display, …

Front of the Iglesia San Antonio, Juan de la Cosa, Santander Spain

Iglesia San Antonio (Padres Capuchinos) – Church of San Antonio (Capuchin Fathers)
… and churches are everywhere around the city.

Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía, C. Daoiz y Velarde, Santander Spain

Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía – Parish Church of Santa Lucía

Bell-tower, Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía, C. Daoiz y Velarde, Santander Spain

Bell-Tower : Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía

Plaza de Pedro Velarde, Santander Spain

Plaza de Pedro Velarde (Plaza Porticada – Porticoed Square)
After the Great Fire of 1941, Santander needed extensive rebuilding. Inspired by the 18th century customs office which was destroyed in the fire, architects Javier González de Riancho, Rafael Huidobro, and Valentín del Noval designed this square in neoclassical Herrerian style. Pedro Velarde, for whom the square is named, was a Cantabrian hero of the Spanish War of Independence.

C. Puente to Catedral de Santander, Spain

Catedral de Santander – Santander Cathedral
The Plaza Porticada is made up of two buildings. Through the gap between them, we can see Santander’s Gothic cathedral, more properly known as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Santander, or “Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary of Santander”.

Parroquia de la Anunciación, Santander Spain

Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Anunciación – Our Lady of the Annunciation Parish
In the other direction, another church.

Casa Consistorial de Santander, Spain

Casa Consistorial de Santander – Santander City Council
The town hall building was started in 1897, and was expanded between 1963 and 1967. It is described as being modernist and eclectic in style.

Don Quixote pictures in el túnel del Pasaje de Peña, Santander Spain

The Ingenious Knight of La Mancha
My last stop before boarding my airport shuttle was a complete change of pace! A road and pedestrian tunnel called the Passage of Pain (el Pasaje de Peña) doubles as an exhibition space. When I visited, it was decorated with children’s artworks illustrating scenes from Don Quixote. (iPhone6)

Text: Happy Rambling

When I went to retrieve my luggage and wait for my shuttle, I was pleasantly tired. It  had been a lot of walking.

But well worth it!

Until next time…

Photos: 29September2019