.jpg) The Bruvik Fjord from the Bergensbanen
Touted as one of Europe’s most beautiful train journeys, the train trip between Bergen and Oslo traverses some magnificent Norwegian scenery. Scandinavian travel sites call it one of Europe’s most beautiful train journeys.
Even in April and May, the season that Norwegians call ‘late winter’, the views from the train between Bergen and Oslo are magnificent, alternating between stark rugged beauty and picturesque charm.
My husband and I were travelling on a small ocean cruise from Barcelona, Spain to Bergen, Norway. When I looked at flights from Bergen to the rest of the world, I discovered none went where I wanted to go! So, if we had to travel to Oslo anyway, why not do it by rail, and enjoy some of the magnificent scenery that Western Norway offers?
I had booked part of our ticketing online through the official Norway Trains website. When the time came to travel, my husband was unable to join me – for reasons our travel insurance didn’t cover. My helper at the NSB office in Bergen credited me the unused ticket portions with good humour, excellent English, and no questions asked! I was most impressed.
The full trip connecting Norway’s two major cities – Bergen and Oslo – takes just under seven hours. I broke my journey about two hours east of Bergen, at the little mountain station Myrdal. There I was able to pick up the magnificent Flåm line (see: Down the Hill and Back Again) and enjoy a foray into the UNESCO-listed Norwegian fjord landscape (see: On Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord).
The Bergensbanen line runs a total of 496 kilometers (308 miles) through about 182 tunnels into gneiss mountains and along one of the world’s highest stretches of track across the Hardangervidda Plateau. This is an unbelievably rugged landscape, with mountains rising high and fjords cutting deep.
The construction of the railway was exceptionally challenging, needing countless man-hours in a region of high altitudes with no roads, and subject to freezing temperatures and heavy snowfall. It was built between 1875 and 1909, against a backdrop of political infighting and fiscal recession. Although the first trains ran in 1907, heavy snowfalls closed the line again for months. When the service was finally officially opened in 1909, King Haakon VII called it the Norwegian engineering masterpiece of his generation.
Today, the system is electric, and the carriages are clean, spacious, comfortable, and wifi equipped.
Add to that incomparable views, and you truly have a great trip!
.jpg) Leaving Bergen
One of the many beauties of European train travel is the ease: the Bergen Train Station was quite literally across a cobbled road from my hotel room. Bergen itself is a most delightful city (see: Cobbled Streets and Wooden Buildings) – although as we draw away from it by rail, we can’t really see the extensive UNESCO-listed historic quarters. .jpg) North Sea or Bruvik Fjord?
Before long, we are running into rugged mountains and alongside massive waterways; I don’t know where the North Sea ends and Bruvik Fjord begins.  A Dusting of Snow on Rugged Rocks
I can’t help but have admiration for the engineers who managed to build a rail line through this unremittingly rugged terrain. Hamlet from Train
Apparently there are 20-odd stops on the line (I didn’t count them). Many are at little fjord villages with limited or no road access. Settlement from the Train
Everywhere I look, the houses are neat, wooden, and cheerfully painted. Shallow Waters
At the foot of the mountains, fast, shallow rivers race across valley floors. Scenery from the Train
Just a few minutes later, and the waters look deep and quiet. Rocks and Rapids Outside Voss Station
Voss Station – in Vossevangen, a village of over 6000 people – was one of our more substantial stops. Troll at Voss Station
A tourist shop pays tribute to the Old Norse beings found all over Norway. Golden Hillside
Before long, we are back on our way. Spring has made little inroads on the grassy banks that have spent a long winter under snow. Trees and Houses
While some of the grasses have greened up, the deciduous trees are still winter-bare. April Snows
We come out of another tunnel into a winter wonderworld. (iPhone6) Bridge in the Snow
It looks like someone has been skiing across that bridge below us! Spring Snow
There is a road down there… it and the waterways stretch off through the valley and into the mountains. Upsete Station
Some of these stations are tiny: aside from one specialist tourist accommodation, there is not much else here at Upsete. I’m off at the next stop to pick up the only intersecting rail line, the Flåmsbana. Selfie : Myrdal Station
Two days later – after riding down and up again on the Flåmsbana and exploring the waterfalls and fjords of the Flåmsdalen, I’m back in Myrdal station with enough time for lunch while waiting for the next Bergensbanen east. Arrival
A light flurry of snow is falling as the train west arrives … Workers on the Platform
… and leaves again. Soon it is my turn, and we set off east. Winter Whiteout
The train emerges from a 10,300-metre-long (6.4 mile) railway tunnel into a snowy whiteout near Finse, which is the highest station, at 1,222 meters (4,009 ft). Memories of Winter
It is little wonder that polar explorers Nansen, Amundsen and Shackleton used this area as and extreme training grounds, and George Lucas chose it as the location of Hoth for Star Wars Episode V. Green Light
We are getting closer to major centres. Norwegian Woods
We travel through many miles of aptly named Norway spruce (Picea abies) and mountain birch (Betula pubescens) … Afternoon Mists
… as the sun gets lower and we get closer to Oslo. It is a marvelous journey – one I would do again.
And of course, accessing my hotel in Oslo (see: Sculptured Parks and City Spaces) from the train station was an absolute breeze!
 That’s European train travel for you.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 29April2018 and 01May2018
A Woman and her Pony
A Quechuan woman follows the classic Inca Trail, built as a communication and pilgrimage route between the 1400s and 1500s, to take her wares into the Andes. In Cusco, a woman having breakfast at our hotel was complaining about her muscle aches and pains. She had just returned from the Inca Trail, and when I said we were starting it the next day, she looked me up and down and said: “Well, I hope you are fit!” in portentous tones.
What had I let myself in for?
Before daybreak the next day, our group of six trekkers, thirteen porters, and two guides were on a bus to Ollantaytambo, the starting point. There, we bought the essentials from the local vendors: garish Machu Picchu sun-hats, bamboo walking sticks, and a supply of coca candies to supplement the Argentinean chocolate I had brought with me. We were already dressed in the ‘trekker uniform’: sturdy walking shoes, dun or khaki pants with multiple pockets and zips, and quick-dry shirts over colourful long-sleeved thermal tees. To complete the outfit, you need at least: a backpack, a drink carrier, a camera bag (I had my little Canon Ixus), and assorted jackets and/or jumpers, all attached somewhere on your person. We set off over the railway line and past the first checkpoint at Piscacucho, or Kilometer 82 (2709 m / 8888 ft), into the Machu Picchu National Park, swinging our sticks and smiling.
The smiles lasted until the first elevations and the midday rains took their toll.
The trek follows just a small part – 42 kilometers (26 miles) – of the much larger UNESCO-listed complex of roads built by the Inca throughout the Andes Mountains. The Qhapaq Ñan, as this system was known, is an extraordinary network built across one of the world’s most extreme geographical terrains.
Even though we only had to carry ‘day packs’: eight kilos of water, electrolyte drink, spare clothing, sun screen, bug repellent, toilet paper, snacks, cameras, and rain gear, you’d be surprised how quickly it starts to feel heavy!
That first morning we passed a number of people coming towards us along the trail. Had they decided to walk back after reaching Machu Picchu? No, they had succumbed to altitude sickness, and were being escorted off the track. What was particularly ominous was the fact that they were all younger than us – well, let’s be truthful; almost everyone on the track was younger than us. Altitude sickness, in its early stages takes the form of headaches (which we all suffered to a lesser or greater extent), vomiting and diarrhoea. That combined with somewhat primitive plumbing facilities, well, you don’t want to know…
When we walked it back in 2006, the trail was already strictly regulated. Only 500 people were on it at any one time: 200 tourists and guides, and 300 porters. Given that these people are divided across the three to four days it takes to walk, there are likely to be only 150 people in any particular section. As a consequence, we got to recognize some of the other trekkers, and even developed ‘friendly’ competitions between groups. Naturally, ours was the best group! We could dine-out on some of the stories of misfortunes that befell other travellers.
Starting at an elevation of 2500 metres, we walked a mere 14 kilometres that first day.
It only felt like 100!
Andes in the Clouds
The highest mountains outside of Asia, the Andes divide Peru from north to south, and command your attention wherever you are. Machu Picchu Hats
My goodness we were brave! Big smiles and silly hats: we had no idea what was in store for us. Porters Bundle the Packs
By industry standard, porters are limited to carrying 25-kilo loads. These bundles include our tents and bedrolls, a 4-kilo bag of personal belongings per tourist, and all the kitchen supplies. Camino Inka – Inca Trail
A quick group photo at Piscacucho, Km 82, and we are off. Urubamba River
The river we follow for much of our day is raging and swollen: flooding rains have washed out sections of the trail. Vegetation
The Andes are subject to clear vertical climatic zones. This middle zone has a temperate and semi-humid (tierra templada) climate, which produces a lush and varied vegetation that fascinated me. Prickly Pear – Opuntia Ficus-Indica Cactaceae
Cacti become more common as we wind upward into the higher reaches. Urubamba Valley
Already we have climbed a long way up from the Urubamba River. You can just see the ruins in the valley, and the stone terraces and storage houses on the hillside across from us. We had seen ruined storehouses up close on Pinkuylluna at Ollantaytambo the day before (see: The Sacred Valley). Our First Ruins
I believe these are the Qoriwayrachina (‘Where the Gold is Vented’) Ruins. The stonework is amazing! Local Guide Elvis Llaqtapata Terraces and Storehouses (2840 m) at Patallacta
The Inca civilization flourished between 1400 and 1533 CE and left extensive ruins behind. Roger
One of our two guides gives us a run-down of the local history. Blue-Team Porters
Meanwhile, the porters load up and set off again. Village in the Green
Rainy season runs from November through to March, so in early April everything is lush and green. Blooming Tree
The variety of plant life is amazing. Succulents on the Embankment ‘Porters!’
The rule of the track is that you give way to porters. This provides a much appreciated excuse to pause on what feels like an unremittingly upward climb. Angel’s Trumpets
Brugmansia flowers are beautiful but potentially dangerous, causing serious mental and physical reactions – or death. Shamen in the Amazon use them in controlled doses. Raining Again!
The rain makes the track extra slippery. What fun! Yellow Wildflowers
Admiring the flora gives me a opportunity to stop and rest my legs. ‘Shopping Center’
The offer to use credit cards is a joke, as the closest electricity is a half day’s walk away! Close to our Campsite
Now we just have to wait for our porters to arrive with our tents and dinner! Yellows Wildflowers – Viguiera Procumbens Asteraceae Llama Grazing
Not a great shot, but can you get anything more Peruvian than llamas grazing on the hillside in the mists? All the old guide books tell you that the trail starts at Km88, not Km82 as we had done. I could feel that extra 6 km at the end of the day!
And, Day One is the easy day: the next day we had the challenge of two mountain passes to get through.
At least there would be plenty to look at along the way!
Happy Walking!
Pictures: 07April2006
Posted in Peru,TravelTags: Camino Inka,flora,Inca Trail,landscape,Peru,Photo Blog,ruins,rural,travel,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,walk
A Woman in the Mustard Fields
As I walk through the tidy, fertile fields only a few kilometres away from the chaotically busy and densely populated urban maze that is Kathmandu, Nepal, I am surprised to experience a feeling calm and a sense of space. The small, land-locked country of Nepal contains about 0.37% of the world’s total population, and much of this is concentrated in the Kathmandu Valley.
Fortunately, this region – which is one of the most densely populated areas of Nepal – is also very fruitful.
According to ancient Buddhist scriptures, the Kathmandu Valley was a giant lake until the Bodhisattva Manjusri, a Chinese bodhisattva venerated in Mahayana and Vajrayana Buddhist traditions, cut a gap in the surrounding hills with a holy sword while on pilgrimage, thus letting the waters out.
The Gopal Banshawali (Gopal Raj Vamshavali), a 14th-century hand-written manuscript delineating the history of the ancient Nepalese kings, says it was the Hindu God Krishna who cut a gorge with his Sudarshana Chakra – a spinning, discus weapon with 108 serrated edges – to let the water out of the giant lake. Krishna then gifted the drained valley to the nomadic cow herders who lived there.
There is indeed geological evidence of an ancient lakebed where the mythical lake used to be: probably formed over one million years ago when the southern edge of the valley experienced a tectonic uplift which dammed the precursor of the Bagmati River. Fossil remains of the extinct ancestors of mammoths, hippos, and crocodiles have been found, as well as pollen-dated sediment (see: The Nepal Times). From the time of the last Ice Age, the waters slowly receded, leaving behind a richly fertile soil.
This productive soil keeps the population fed and the economy moving. Across the country, between 25 and 30 percent of GDP comes from agriculture, which provides a livelihood to well over 60 percent of the population. In the peri-urban Kathmandu Valley, vegetables are a major cash crop.
The steepness of the valley makes growing anything a labour-intensive exercise here, but the terraced mountain sides were lush and green when I visited. It was mustard season: I was told that farmers in this region rotate potato, mustard, and rice crops. In other parts of the country, you will see more maize, wheat, and buckwheat.
The municipality of Changunarayan is less than 20 kilometres (12.5 miles) east of Kathmandu , and the ancient city of Bhaktapur is only 13 kilometres (8 miles) southeast of the metropolis. Even so, the gentle seven kilometre (four mile) walk from the temple at Changunarayan (see: Changunarayan Temple) to Bhaktapur feels completely rural. The views and terrain change constantly as you meander down through tiny villages with dirt roads, tall stands of pine forest, fertile terraced fields, and tiny rural hamlets.
Do come along!
Sorting the Mustard Seed
Outside the temple at Changunarayan, everyday life and seasonal tasks take place in the streets. Watching from the Window
Local people smile as we pass – from their windows overhead … Mother and Child
… or from doorways where they sit. Pine Woods
A short time later, our track brought us to an extensive pine wood. Almost Abstract : Tall Tree Trunks
I was travelling with photographer Gavin Gough, and he made sure we had time in the forest to play … Almost Abstract : Tapering Tree Trunks
… and experiment with representations of the beautiful trees. Almost Abstract : Look Up! Almost Abstract : Find the Forest in the Trees In the Forest : Textured Tree Trunks Woman in Pink
We are not out of the woods long before we come across a small hamlet, … Women in Orange
… where the residents are happy to greet us in the road. Corrugated Shed and a Sari
The scene is rural: small rough sheds are dotted all around. Man in a Dark Shed
Surprisingly, the hardworking-farmers are not too busy to chat. Typical Nepali Scene
A double-story brick home sits on the crest of the hill and fresh green plants fill the curving terraces. I think this is rice, … Bee in the Mustard Flowers
… but elsewhere, the mustard is in bloom. Farmer in a Red Hat Woman outside a Shed
Farmers and their out-buildings are all along our path down through the terraces. Young Woman in Blue
The smiles we meet are luminous! Woman in a Red Headscarf Making Bricks
One of the other major outputs in the Kathmandu Valley is bricks: with the increasing population and the need to repair damaged buildings, brick manufacturing is a growth industry. Brickworks
Brick kilns often use lands during the dry season that are used during the wet, summer monsoon months for rice. Unfortunately, this has lead to decreased soil quality, reduced ground water, and increased air pollution. Shines at a Hindu Temple
The majority (over 80%) of residents of this valley identify Hindu, and temples and shrines are everywhere. Inlay in the Brick Wall
The treasure vase is one of the Ashtamangala, the eight auspicious signs the run through Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism. Man at the Temple Shiva Linga
The most widely followed Hindu sect in Nepal is Shaivism: the worship of Shiva. In Shaivism, a lingam or Shiva linga, is an abstract representation of Shiva. They are often joined to a base in the shape of a yoni, which represents the Goddess Shakti. Lingam Maze
Together, lingam and yoni symbolise the the divine eternal union of the feminine and the masculine forces that create and recreate all of existence. Woman Carrying Herbs
At the side of the road, a woman is gathering fodder for her goats. Walkers on the Hill
In Nepal, even a predominantly downhill trek includes steep uphill sections – and even tiny hamlets comprise large homes. These houses are probably shared across multiple generations of an extended family under one roof. Women in the Mustard Fields
Over that hilltop, the terraces of mustard plants stretch down into the next valley. Father and Son
This dad was determined to show off his son; the young lad was much less thrilled. On the Steps
At the top of the next hill, where we can look down over Bhaktapur in the distance, three friends sit for a chat. Fortunately, from that friendly front porch, our hike was a gentle downhill slope into Bhaktapur, where our transport waited to take us the short distance back to Kathmandu …
… back to that dusty, chaotic, noisy city – so geographically close to this rural environment, and yet, a world away.
Namaste!
Photos: 14March2017
Posted in Nepal,Rural,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,nature,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,rural,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Bab al-Ghuri
You can buy almost anything here at Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili Bazaar. If you search, you might even find Aladdin’s lamp in one of the shops nestled either side of this stone gate built by Sultan al-Ghuri in 1511. Two of the great joys of travel are eating and shopping!
Any visitor to these pages know I love exploring markets. I love the colour and the chaos; I love the photographic challenges they present; I love the insight they give into local people’s lives.
I don’t even mind the pseudo ‘workshop’ visits that are part of almost any organised group trip. For while they are principally aimed at the tourist’s dollars, they are also a break from the more serious museums, and give an insight into local products and craftsmanship. As the vendors hope, I often succumb to temptation – although I try to buy consumables, or small gifts, rather than collecting yet more souvenirs for my already crowded home.
After an intense morning of heat and history at the pyramids of Giza (see: Stories in Ancient Stone), I was happy to have a coffee in the air conditioned comfort of a papyrus store, where a brief explanation of how papyrus is made into paper preceded a lengthy opportunity to buy artworks or hieroglyphics. A visit to the Egyptian Museum (where I wasn’t allowed to use my cameras inside the museum, but could use my primitive old iPhone6) fleshed out some of the morning’s history.
Everywhere we went, markets beckoned, but none was more beguiling than the honeycomb of ancient streets making up Cairo’s magical, medieval Khan el-Khalili. As a centre of trade, this historic souq (souk, or marketplace) was established between 1382 and 1389. Some of the buildings and city gates that the market incorporates date back even further. The density of cultural heritage and historic Islamic, Mamluk, and Ottoman architecture found here contribute to – along with the mosque and museum we had visited that same day (see: The Gayer-Anderson Museum and Ibn Tulun Mosque) – the UNESCO’s World Heritage listing of ‘Historic Cairo’.
If you hit shopping overload, there are plenty of cafes to stop and just people-watch. We did even better! Our day – and our Egyptian sojourn – ended with a home-cooked meal with a local family in Cairo.
Join me!
Explaining Papyrus
As the tour buses role through, saleswomen are kept busy, explaining the iconography in the artworks … Cyperus Papyrus
… and demonstrating how the common Nile grass … Making Papyrus
… gets made into durable paper. Making Koshary for Lunch
If you want good, fast food, go where the locals eat! Koshary Abou Tarek in Cairo is a hive of activity, serving up Egypt’s national dish. A popular street food, koshary (kushari, or koshari) is a tasty mix of pasta, rice, and lentils, with a spicy sauce and garnish. Yum! (iPhone6) Ghosts of the Past
The Egyptian Museum is said to be the oldest archaeological museum in the Middle East, and houses the largest collection of pharaonic antiquities in the world. (iPhone6) Timeless Black Schist Triad
The age of these artworks is mind boggling! This triad depicts King Menkaure, wearing the crown of Upper Egypt (centre), flanked by the Goddess Hathor and Waset, the ancient God of Thebes. In spite of its modern appearance, it dates to around 2500 BC. (iPhone6) “Everyman”
Pharaohs are not the only ones immortalised: this painted limestone statue of Niankhre II, a physician, dates to the Fifth Dynasty (2494–2345 BC). (iPhone6) Tutankhamun’s Collar
The riches that were buried with this young pharaoh are simply awe-inspiring. (iPhone6) Glass Blowing
I love watching glass blowers as they sculpt it into wonderfuls shapes over flame. This was near the entry of a large store in Aswan selling essential oils. Ornate Glass Bottles
Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians were making perfumes at least 5000 years ago. Essential Oils
Egyptian priests used aromatic resins to sweeten the smell of sacrificial offerings, and oils have long been believed to have psychological, physiological, and spiritual healing properties. Preparing Fragrances
Today, the essential oils are packaged for tourists to take home with them. After a cooling karkade (hibiscus iced tea), we were treated to samples of healing oils and fragrances that mimicked expensive branded perfumes. Buying Fragrance
Even though I had bought frankincense resin at the markets earlier that day, neither I nor the rest of my group could resist! I’ve read many unhappy reviews from similar places in Cairo, but I can’t fault this one in Aswan: I’m still loving my ‘Secret of the Desert’ – and my ‘not-quite-Chanel’. Fresh Fruit in the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar
Markets bring a city to life! Souvenirs
Although this historical market still houses local merchants, craftsmen, and traders, … Trinkets
… much of it today targets tourists. Traditional Glass and Brass Tea Set Qalawun Complex
The souq is bounded on the west by El Moez Street – or al-Muizz Street – transliteration from Arabic is notoriously slippery. This kilometre (0.6 mile) long pedestrian street is crowded with magnificent examples of Islamic architecture. This building, named after the the seventh Bahri Mamluk Sultan Qalawun, was built between 1284–1285 and includes a hospital, a madrasa, and his mausoleum. Madrasa and Mosque of al-Salih Najm al-Din Ayyub
Directly across the street, the extensive complex started by the Ayyub Sultan As-Salih Ayyub in 1242, stands tall. El Moez Street Doorways
Shops are tucked into every nook and cranny. Craftsman in a Laneway
There are still a few craftsmen working in the narrow laneways – although fewer than in the past. Tooling Metal
I was fascinated watching the intricate work taking shape. Al-Ghuri’s Gate
The last Mamluk Sultan al-Ghuri (r. 1501–1516) redeveloped this area; the southern gate of Suq al-Nabulsi remains from that time. Living in the Old City
Houses and workshops fill the upper floors of many of the old buildings. Foods for Sale
Dates are ubiquitous in the Middle East. Another Old Gate Minaret
There are so many old mosques in in this neighbourhood, I couldn’t identified most of them, … Al-Azhar Mosque
… but the distinctive Al-Azhar Mosque marking the southern boundary of the market stands out. One of the oldest mosques in Egypt, it was originally established in 972. The three minarets make it immediately recognisable: especially the double-finial minaret of Qansah al-Ghuri. Cairo Kitchen
We finished our last day in a middle-class Cairo home, … (iPhone6) Cairo Home-Cook
… where our bubbly hostess, teacher and mother of two … (iPhone6) Cairo Dinner Table
… laid out a wonderful meal, and introduced us to her family. Last Lights on the Nile
From my hotel room, I had a last view over the majestic Nile River. I departed Egypt with several pieces of Egyptian cotton which I paid too much for – and some of it was later found to be synthetic. And, my beautiful blue-stone necklace discoloured my neck on the very first wearing!
 Caveat emptor applies even more when you know you are a target, and purchasers in foreign ports need to pay special attention to what they are buying.
But, I love my souvenirs anyway, and I’m always sorrier for the things I don’t buy. It’s all part of the fun!
Pictures: Cairo: 06October2019 and 12October2019; Aswan: 10October2019
Posted in Architecture,Egypt,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,Egypt,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,market,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Rock Pools
It is impossible to count the number of tidal rock pools on Vancouver Island’s beautiful Botanical Beach – and each one is unique in its colours and textures. It is nice when advertising slogans actually make sense and ring true!
British Columbia (BC), Canada’s western-most province, has coined the phrase: Super, Natural British Columbia. And it fits. Wherever you go, there are natural spaces of the most incredible beauty.
I had landed in Vancouver, and almost immediately headed for the woods and nature trails (see: Back in the Land of Tall Trees). I was lucky: some time later, I was visiting with ‘friends-in-the-know’ on Vancouver Island, off the west coast of BC. They took me to visit what used to be called Botanical Beach Provincial Park, but since 1996 has been subsumed under the larger Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. This magnificent coastal preserve is a two-hour drive from where I was staying in Victoria. It sits overlooking the Salish Sea – or the Strait of Juan de Fuca, depending on the age of your maps – and is accessed through the tiny community of Port Renfrew. Serious multi-day hikers know the locale because it is the trailhead for the celebrated Juan de Fuca Marine Trail and the historic West Coast Trail; even so, it is not an area I would have found by accident.
But, like every other corner of this remarkable province, it is a joy!
Botanical Beach, with its abundance of intertidal life, was identified as a notable location for the study of marine tidepools by Dr. Josephine Tildon from the University of Minnesota. The university set up a marine station in 1900 – but students had to travel by steamship from Victoria to Port Renfrew, and then walk a narrow and muddy trail (with all their scientific equipment) the rest of the way. A road was promised but never built, and the station closed in 1907.
Fortunately, we were able to drive to the trail head, from whence the beach was an easy one kilometre (0.6 miles) walk!
Come for a waterfront stroll among the tidal pools.
Western Skunk Cabbage in the Shadows
Skunk cabbages (Lysichiton americanus) are ubiquitous in the wet spaces here. They are also monocots – which I had to look up: monocotyledons are grass and grass-like flowering plants whose seeds typically contain only one embryonic leaf, or cotyledon. Helpful, right?
The contrasts between brilliant sunlight through a clear sky and dark, damp understory of a tall forest are a challenge for the camera – and for the editing process afterwards! “Scientifically Significant”
The interpretive signage along the track provides lots of useful information. Tall Trees and Alectoria Sarmentosa
I have always called it Spanish Moss – silly me! Thanks to a signboard along the track to the beach, I now know it’s a witch’s-hair lichen. The Path
We parked near the toilets; as we were about to set off, a woman asked if we’d done the track before. “It’s very muddy and slippery!” she said. … Walkers on the Path
… Lucky for us, she pointed us to a cleaner, shorter trail to the beach close by. Green Shoot in the Sun Approaching Botanical Beach
It doesn’t matter how long I spend in BC where sights like this are an everyday occurance, this kind of view always takes my breath away. A Figure on the Beach
Even if you are not alone, there is a feeling of space. Steller’s Jay in the Trees
Regularly sighted in these forests, the native Steller’s jay (Cyanocitta stelleri) was named in 1788 for Georg Steller, a naturalist who first sighted them in Alaska in 1741 from a Russian explorer’s ship. Waves on the Rocks
The soft sandstone foreshore has been pounded by the waves of the wild Pacific Ocean, carved by boulders tossed around by water, and further detailed by purple sea urchins. Bull Kelp – Nereocystis Luetkeana
More than once on this trip, I heard stories about how the over-hunting of sea otters lead to the rise in sea urchins, and the subsequent decimation of kelp forests. This then had numerous negative flow-on effects, especially – but not restricted to – the reduction in other marine life. Scientists are currently looking at ways of restoring the balance; but what would balance look like? The Eastern Shore
An unnamed (as far as I can ascertain) promontory marks the eastern end of Botanical Beach. In any event, the tide was coming in; it was time to work our way back! Tidal Rock Pool
Provincial Park rules prohibit the collecting or harming of any marine species (whether it is alive or not) … Another Rock Pool
… but the wonderful colours and textures make the urge to reach in and touch (almost) irresistible! A Little Drippy Cave
Even the vertical sandstone walls have been carved into interesting shapes. Nature’s Watercolour Pallet Rock Pool Moonscape
The incoming tide can rise quite quickly: it is time to move on, before we lose the foreshore. Mussels on a Log
Creatures are everywhere we look. Salmonberry Flower
Nothing says the Pacific Northwest like the native bramble: the salmonberry (Rubus spectabilis), which will soon be covered in delicious, raspberry-like fruit. Laurel
The laurels were also in full bloom, but I’m not so sure these are native.
We were lucky: the low temperatures that had dogged the usually warm west-coast spring were ideal for walking, and the copious rains that had been mostly unrelenting all month held off long enough for us to get back to the car for the drive back home.
Super, natural, …
Indeed!
Pictures: 16May2022
Posted in Aquaculture,Canada,Landscapes,NatureTags: BC,blog,Canada,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,Provincial Park,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk,waterscape
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