.jpg) Bushy Needlebush – Hakea Sericea
Although it is part of Metropolitan Melbourne, it is easy to lose yourself in nature on the Mornington Peninsula. It is very easy to find interesting and diverse walks into the woods and wetlands of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. Although it is only an hour south of Melbourne City Centre, you feel like you are a world away.
But, there is no need to rough it here: the region is also home to more farm-to-table speciality restaurants and boutique vineyards than you can possibly sample in a short stay. The accommodation I had booked for my week in the region was in a central location on the compact peninsula, making all corners accessible. Armed with a terrific map highlighting places of interest – including for shopping and eating – and describing a variety of walks (see: Mornington Peninsula), I was able to plan my time around foods I wanted to sample.
I was staying next to the Eagle Ridge Golf Course, so I enjoyed daily morning and evening walks around the landscaped greens. I also spent time exploring the region’s history (see: A Walk into the Past) and some of the different preserved and recovered landscapes (see: Red Hill Rail Trail and Endeavour Fern Gully).
On my fourth full day on the Mornington, I walked just over six kilometres (4 miles), out and back on the Balcombe Estuary Boardwalk beside Balcombe Creek. After this meandering stroll into saltmarsh and bushland, I returned to Mount Martha for local wine and flavoursome Italian-style wood-fired pizza made with regional produce and cheese. I think I ate much more than my walked had earned me!
On my last day, I lunched at the hatted-restaurant at Pt Leo Estate, and wandered through their Sculpture Garden (see: Pt Leo Estate). I decided to check out the nearby Coolart Homestead, and explore the wetlands there in the remains of the winter afternoon light before heading back to my room.
Join me!
.jpg) Eagle Ridge Golf Course
My morning walks around the beautifully-landscaped golf course were a pleasure. (iPhone12pro) .jpg) Entry at Mount Martha
The hardest park of any walk is getting started! I parked on the wrong side of the estuary at first, and had to consult with locals about where best to put my car.  “Purple Swamp Hen”
Once on the path everything is well signposted: including with metal signs letting you know what birds to look out for. Balcombe Boardwalk
The boardwalk makes life for mums with strollers a breeze! The walkway was in good condition, and I passed many people making use of it. Balcombe Creek
Little detours in the walkway take you down to the water’s edge … Cormorant on the Creek
… where there is plenty of waterbird life to enjoy. Native Scrub Grey Shrike Thrush
I’m always excited when I catch even part of a bird in the wild! Colluricincla Harmonica
Used to people here, this one sat and watched me for a while – from a safe distance. Graffiti on the Cluster Pine
The texture in the the cluster pine (pinus pinaster) bark allows room for people to leave their marks. Pine against the Sky
These trees, native to the Mediterranean, grow to reach 20–35 m (66-115 ft) tall. Protecting Nests
Volunteers engage in a variety of activities – including installing plastic sleeves to prevent ground-based creatures like feral cats from attacking precious hollows and nesting sites. She Oak Needles
I love casuarinas, and I loved finding out that they were named for way their needles resemble the feathers of cassowary birds. (iPhone12pro) Eastern Yellow Robin – Eopsaltria Australis
Another bird! The eastern yellow robin lives only in the southeastern regions of Australia. Coolart Homestead
Dating from 1895, this late Victorian-era family home is usually open to the public. Managed by Parks Victoria, the heritage estate is currently undergoing renovations. Morning Flight
Ibis by local sculptor and potter Heather Ellis adorn a pond outside. Pine Cones
A network of walking tracks criss-cross the 87.5 hectare (216 acre) property, taking in coastal woodlands, wetlands, lagoons, and formal gardens. Like a Bear in the Woods
I followed the Woodland Walk. It was late in the day, and I imagined I saw creatures in the weathered stumps. Into the Woods
According to the website, the dominant trees here are manna gums, drooping she-oak, and coast banksia. Tree Trunks Rising Winter Light on the Wetlands
Several creeks and waterways – some of them estuarine – intersect the property, and the open waters of the Western Passage are just a short distance away. Overgrown Pathway
The recent strict and lengthy lockdowns have taken their toll: clearly not many people have been able to use these pathways, and they have become quite overgrown. Still Life Found
I love the natural patterns and shapes one finds in the landscape. Pergola : Eagle Ridge Golf Course
There is just enough light left in the winter evening sky for another stroll around the golf club before dinner. (iPhone12pro)  Truly, some very different terrains!
And, some wonderful meals between walks.
I was sorry to leave the peninsula behind!
Pictures: 22-23June2021
Spinning Wool above Ollantaytambo
Behind these women in their colourful traditional Quechua clothing, you can see the intricately fitted bricks leading up the hillside to the tambo, or inn, built during the time of Pachacutec (1438 – 1471), the ninth ruler of the Inca state. When you are trekking at altitude in Nepal, the Sherpas will tell you: Go high, sleep lower. In the Peruvian Andes, the guiding companies seem to take the opposite approach.
Cusco, in the south-east of Peru, is the starting point for most Inca Trail tours. This little city in the Central Peruvian Andes sits at 3350 metres (2 miles) above sea level, while the surrounding towns like Pisac or Urubamba at 2,900m (9,514ft), Ollantaytambo at 2,792m (9160ft), or even Machu Picchu at 2,400m (7,874ft), are lower. So, for our first three days in the Andes, we slept high (not very well, I might add!) and toured lower.
At the time of our trip to Peru, my husband and I were living in Bangkok – which at 1.5 m (5 feet) above sea level is as low as you want to get – especially in rainy season! Fortunately, like most other Inca Trail tour companies, ours gave us two full days to acclimatise.
Cusco and its surrounds are historically and culturally fascinating, and time there is easily filled! We spent our first day walking around the city itself, and visiting the remains of Inca sites nearby (see: Cusco, Heart of the Inca Empire).
On this, our second day, we were heading a little further afield, into the Sacred Valley.
Unfortunately, the pictures that I took were on my very first little digital camera and often fall into the: ‘What was I thinking?’ category. I often can’t crop them into a more modern 2×3 format because I have filled the frame so completely. I am horrified by how many feet I have cut off!
But, they are fond memories of a unique place.
What I never could come to grips with in the region was the smell! I eventually identified it as alpaca and/or llama. It can only be described as being like rancid oil and it permeated everything, even the tap water – which we naturally were warned not to drink, but nonetheless washed in – and was especially strong in the woolen clothing worn by the local people.
Join me in Cusco’s Sacred Valley:
Llama
Our first stop of the day was at the Awana Kancha Llama Farm. I knew from meeting a guanaco (Lama guanicoe) in Patagonia (see: Patagonia’s Autumn Colours) that llamas weren’t the only camelids in South America, … Camelids
… but I was surprised by the range – all of which were on display at the farm. Llama Portrait
They are all very affectionate – but smelly! Their soft but strong wool is known for its warmth. Natural Wool Dyes
The centre seeks to maintain and foster ancestral knowledge. Traditional Andean Weaving
They are working to preserve traditional techniques for the production of textiles … Young Quechua Weaver
… and to make sure that younger generations understand the meanings in the complex patterns. Grazing Llama
The Awana Kancha project is an association of several communities; as well as rescuing ancestral traditions, they provide economic opportunities to hundreds of local families. The shop was full of traditional fibres made into modern products, and I couldn’t resist going home with a beautifully knitted alpaca evening cape. Písaq /Pisac and the Sacred Valley
Before descending into the valley and crossing the Urubamba or Vilcamayo River, we admire the town of Pisac from above. Peruvian Pink Peppercorn Tree – Schinus Molle Pisac Church
The little church here is more modest than those we had visited in Cusco the day before! Vegetable Market
I love the colour and chaos of village markets – and the insight they give you into local foods. Heritage Corn
A quick internet search tells me there are 55 corn varieties in Peru! Woolen Weaves
The market is full of wonderful woven fabrics in rich colours and lively Peruvian patterns. Embroidered Appliqués Little Cutie Cheese and Onion Bread Turnovers
Fresh and hot from the clay oven, these were delicious! Ollantaytambo and Pinkuylluna
Further up the valley, we come to Ollantaytambo, which was an Inca administrative, religious, agricultural, and military complex. The mountain looming up behind is Pinkuylluna, which features grain storehouses and the face of Tunupa. It is believed that the face is natural, rather than man-made. His eyes appear to open or close depending on the light and shadows. Storehouses
The storehouses were built out of fieldstones to keep grain. The high altitude and dry mountain air kept the produce fresh; when the Spanish arrived, the Inca had enough food stored for more than six years. Ollantaytambo
The town of Ollantaytambo is home to two massive Inca ruins, those storehouses up on Pinkuylluna, and the ruins of a 15th-century fortress built by emperor Pachacuti. Gate to the Tambo or Inn
We walked up the Ollantaytambo side, to the entry gate to what was believed to be a travellers inn above the city. Stonework
The stonework around the inn is another example of Inca precision. A Fertile Plateau
The fertile valley below us is the product of the meeting of the Patakancha and Willkanuta rivers. Cactus Graffiti
People the world over feel the need to leave their mark! Houses at Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is said to be the only remaining example of pre-Columbian urban planning. The buildings and courtyards as well as the narrow lanes have their original form. Terraces at Ollantaytambo
From the bottom of the river valleys, extensive andenes, or agricultural terraces, rise all the way up the surrounding hills. They permit farming on otherwise unusable terrain, and create micro-climates, allowing farmers to grow a range of crops at different altitudes.
Village Well More Stairs Fertile Valley
The altitude and the stairs took their toll, and returning to Cusco, we were glad to admire the fertile valley from the comfort of our bus! 
It was a fascinating insight into an almost-lost culture, and helped prepare us for the trek were were about to undertake.
Until next time –
¡ Salud !
Pictures: 06April2006
Posted in Animals,Architecture,Peru,TravelTags: animals,architecture,arts and crafts,environmental portraits,people,Peru,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Palacio de la Magdalena – Magdalena Palace
The Cantabrian city of Santander has some wonderful architecture. This eclectic palace was built between 1908 and 1912 on the site of an old fort on a peninsula jutting into Santander Bay. Between 1913 and 1930, it was the summer home of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. With the declaration of the Second Spanish Republic in 1931, the space was given back to the city, and still operates as a conference and meeting facility. The little city of Santander with its sheltered natural harbour on the Bay of Biscay has a long and rich history. It is thought to have been the location of the 26 BC Roman port: Portus Victoriae Iuliobrigensium, but no definitive archaeological evidence has been found. The first documentary mention of the settlement was in 1068, although it is believed to have been inhabited much longer. By the later Middle Ages, it had become an important port for the Castile region, and was also a centre for trade with the New World, officially becoming a city in 1755.
Unfortunately, the much of the medieval city centre was razed by the Great Fire of 1941, which burned for two days and left thousands of families homeless (q.v.: My Santander).
Even so, some historical buildings remain, and walking around the edge of the old city, where it wraps itself around the Bay of Santander, is a joy – the first part of which I have documented previously (see: Art and Architecture in Santander).
I was particularly delighted to spend time on the Magdalena Peninsula, which is the site of an historic royal palace, an extensive public park, sculpture gardens, the three Cantabrian galleons which sailed in Columbus’s wake, two beaches, a lighthouse, and even a small zoo!
Join me for a lovely city walk.
Gran Casino – Plaza de Italia
This plaza, named for the Italian legionaries who helped in the Spanish Civil War, houses the Gran Casino building, designed by Santander architect Eloy Martínez del Valle (1870 – 1939) and opened in 1916. Painter Enrique Gran (1928 – 1999)
On the coast walkways high above the Playa del Camello, two sheet-metal sculptures by Colombian artist Enrique Grau (1920 – 2004) depict and frame a local painter. Calle Juan de Borbón – Península de la Magdalena
The road into the Magdalena Peninsula is stately – as befits the royalty once housed here. It is named for Juan de Borbón y Battenberg (1913 – 1993), head of the Spanish Royal House between 1941 and 1977. Those were the days of the Second Spanish Republic under General Franco, so he never actually reigned. Parque Juegos Magdalena – Magdalena Playground
When this was the Royal Family’s summer home, the buildings in the background were the Royal Stables – designed by Santander-born architect Javier González de Riancho (1881 – 1953) to look like an English medieval village. When the palace itself was used for summer university courses, the stables were converted to house students. Tren Turistico Peninsula de la Magdalena
A charming tourist train takes visitors around the peninsula. En Memoria de las Víctimas del Terrorismo – In Memory of the Victims of Terrorism
In a large green space, the 2005 rusty-iron sculpture by Spanish artist Agustín Ibarrola (1930 – ) commands attention. Parque Marino – Marine Park
Calling this a zoo – or even a mini-zoo – is a bit of a stretch, but the small collection of animals (seals, sea lions, and penguins) from Spanish territories in the New World is no doubt popular with families. Grey Seals – Halichoerus Grypus
They are mesmerising: I spent some time watching the seals swim their laps. Seawater Splash
The park been built into the rocks of the cliff, and pumps fresh seawater into the enclosures. Humboldt Penguins – Spheniscus Humboldti
A pair of South American penguins made an appearance … South American Sea Lions – Otaria Flavescens
… and the sea lions lolled around, doing very little. Museo El Hombre y la Mar – Man and the Sea Museum
Rather a grand title for a small area! I’m not entirely sure if this is a replica of La Balsa, or the actual raft built by Santander-born sailor, scientist, and adventurer, Vital Alsar Ramirez (1933 – 2020). After reading about the Kon-Tiki expedition, he was determined to duplicate it. In 1970, he and this raft sailed 161 days and 13,800 kilometres (8,600 miles) from Ecuador to Australia. Mermaid Figurehead from the Marigalante
The museum houses three full-size replicas of Christopher Columbus’ caravels. In 1977, Ramirez sailed these ships across the Atlantic Ocean in celebration of the original 1492 – 1493 voyage. La Isla de Mouro – Mouro Island
The views from the peninsula are beautiful – in all directions. Palacio de la Magdalena – Magdalena Palace
My walk – clockwise around the peninsula – brings me to the sprawling T-shaped royal summer residence, designed by local architects Javier González de Riancho and Gonzalo Bringas Vega (1880 – 1943). The design blends French, English, and local influences in honour of Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg (1887 – 1969), Queen Consort, wife of King Alfonso XIII of Spain, and granddaughter of of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom. El Coloso
The lawns around the palace are dotted with sculptures, like this one … The Colossus
… in granite by contemporary Spanish artist Francisco Leiro Lois (1957 – ). ATIOS
Another granite piece installed as part of the “Sculpture 88” exhibition, is this piece by Manuel Paz Mouta (1957 – ). In the background, the metallic piece called Untitled by Tom Carr (1956 – ) is commonly referred to as Tela de Araña or ‘Cobweb’. Los Niños de Cantabria a Félix – Félix’s Cantabrian Children
Felix Rodriguez de la Fuente (1928 – 1980) was a Spanish naturalist and broadcaster best known for his TV show El Hombre y la Tierra – Man and Earth. Fuente y Humilladero de la Virgen del Mar – Fountain and Shrine of the Virgin of the Sea
Off the peninsula and back on the Queen Victoria Avenue, Spain’s Catholicism is on prominent display, … Iglesia San Antonio (Padres Capuchinos) – Church of San Antonio (Capuchin Fathers)
… and churches are everywhere around the city. Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía – Parish Church of Santa Lucía Bell-Tower : Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía Plaza de Pedro Velarde (Plaza Porticada – Porticoed Square)
After the Great Fire of 1941, Santander needed extensive rebuilding. Inspired by the 18th century customs office which was destroyed in the fire, architects Javier González de Riancho, Rafael Huidobro, and Valentín del Noval designed this square in neoclassical Herrerian style. Pedro Velarde, for whom the square is named, was a Cantabrian hero of the Spanish War of Independence. Catedral de Santander – Santander Cathedral
The Plaza Porticada is made up of two buildings. Through the gap between them, we can see Santander’s Gothic cathedral, more properly known as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Santander, or “Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary of Santander”. Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Anunciación – Our Lady of the Annunciation Parish
In the other direction, another church. Casa Consistorial de Santander – Santander City Council
The town hall building was started in 1897, and was expanded between 1963 and 1967. It is described as being modernist and eclectic in style. The Ingenious Knight of La Mancha
My last stop before boarding my airport shuttle was a complete change of pace! A road and pedestrian tunnel called the Passage of Pain (el Pasaje de Peña) doubles as an exhibition space. When I visited, it was decorated with children’s artworks illustrating scenes from Don Quixote. (iPhone6) 
When I went to retrieve my luggage and wait for my shuttle, I was pleasantly tired. It had been a lot of walking.
But well worth it!
Until next time…
Photos: 29September2019
Posted in Architecture,Spain,TravelTags: animal park,animals,architecture,landscape,Photo Blog,Santander,sculpture,Spain,travel,Travel Blog,urban,Ursula Wall
The Bridge Overhead
The iconic Capilano Suspension Bridge in North Vancouver is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Vancouver. I can’t count how many times I have crossed it with visitors to the region. “It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men’s hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from old trees, that so wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit.”
– Robert Louis Stevenson
That Robert Louis Stevenson quote is on a signboard along one of the winding paths through the old-growth temperate rainforest in the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. There is something majestic and awe-inspiring about the tall trees of Canada’s West Coast: Douglas firs, western red cedars, maples, and birch are the most visible among the 40 different species of native varieties growing here.
This canyon is one of those iconic places that – while it attracts throngs of international visitors – says ‘home’ to me.
The Capilano Canyon in North Vancouver has been crossed by a 140 metre (460 ft) suspension bridge since 1889. The original bridge was constructed of hemp ropes with a deck of cedar planks. This was replaced in 1903 – and many times since – with wire cable bridges. The current steel cable bridge, built in 1956, was truly tested in 2006, when, during a winter storm after an unusually cold, wet season, a massive Douglas fir tree was uprooted. The top of the tree snapped off and landed in the canyon 70 metres (230 feet) below, but about 17 tons of tree hit the bridge with the estimated force of a fully laden gravel truck travelling at 100 km/h (60 miles/h).
The bridge survived.
I don’t remember paying entry the last time I visited, so I was rather shocked at the prices now; then again, it’s been six years since my last trip ‘home’ (see: Woods and Waterfalls) and I think my last stop at the canyon was many years before that! The bridge is on private land and the surrounds have been expanded over the years. The current owner has held the property since 1983, and opened Treetops Adventures in 2004. This added a network of seven suspended footbridges up to 30 metres (98 ft) above the forest floor. According to information signposts on site, this series of walkways, suspended between old-growth Douglas firs, was entirely crafted by hand to avoid damaging them. Without using any nails or large machinery, the trees were encircled with specially designed steel collars that spread the pressure and weight out equally.
Come explore!
Lions Gate Bridge
This says ‘home’ to me: driving through Stanley Park towards Vancouver’s iconic bridge over the Burrard Inlet. When it was opened in 1938, it was the longest suspension bridge in the British Empire. (iPhone12Pro) Kia’palano Totems
Since 1935, the local First Nations people, the Kia’palano – meaning “beautiful river” – have been invited to place their artwork to the park. Welcome Totem (iPhone12Pro) Artworks (iPhone12Pro) The Capilano Suspension Bridge
The 140 metre (460 ft) suspension bridge stretches off into the distance; people cling to the sides as it bounces and sways. Capilano River
The river tumbles over rocks about 70 metres (230 ft) below us, … Up River
… which gives you an idea how tall those magnificent trees are! Common Periwinkle – Vinca Minor
Although the tree-tops are the draw-card in the park, and although this is an invasive species, I still had to admire the flowers at ground level. Periwinkle were introduced to BC as an ornamental ground cover, but they escaped into the wild where they thrive in the kind of shaded, moist conditions that forest-sheltered waterways like this provide. Little Creek
The Nature’s Edge Boardwalk takes one past a number of watercourses that tumble over low falls … Almost Abstract : Pond Reflections
… or collect in small pools that reflect the green around them. (iPhone12Pro) Little Waterfall
I’m loving the long exposure app on my iPhone. It sure beats dragging a tripod around! (iPhone12Pro) Western Skunk Cabbage – Lysichiton Americanus
Fortunately, this native perennial has a very mild scent compared to the real thing! Ferns, Moss, and Fallen Logs
Cut pieces from fallen trees provide nutrients to the rich life in the understory. Flora
I never succeeding in identifying this. Any answers? Ivy on a Stump Roots of Fallen Tree
I love the rich greens of the moss and ferns everywhere. In the Treetops
A stairway takes you up to the Treetops Adventure, where seven suspension bridges lead you around the mid-story among the 250 year-old Douglas-firs. Treetops Adventure
The viewing platforms are attached using an adjustable and moveable tree collar system that uses no bolts or nails and can accommodate the ongoing growth of the trees. Bigleaf Maples – Acer Macrophyllum
With the colder-than-usual weather, the spring bloom on the trees is later than normal. Maple Flowers
Maple trees bear thousands of flowers which hang straight down like an old lace. Walkways Every-Which-Way
From the viewing platforms, we can look down through the tall trunks to the boardwalk below. Ferns and Rivulets
After traversing the seven suspension bridges overhead, I descend back to new pathways through the mossy forest floor. (iPhone12Pro) Father and Daughter Pretend-/Fishing
A cabin at the edge of one pond epitomizes the ‘summer cabins’ that were part of the mythology of my youth. Activity sheets are given out to youngsters in the park and are wonderfully engaging – including measuring your own height against the growth rate of different trees. The reward is a wildflower seed-encrusted paper bracelet that can be planted. As an educator, I was suitably impressed! Peaceful
The green of the tall trees and their reflections in the still ponds make the environment peaceful – even though there are a lot of people around. Western Skunk Cabbage
The beautiful, but odorous, skunk cabbage is everywhere in the creeks. Back on the Bridge
The suspension bridge takes me back to the other side where the new ‘Clifftop’ walk beckons, but my car also waits to take me to the ferry north. Given the focus the park places on respect, education, and conservation, I felt so much better about the entry price!
It truly is money well spent to save this beautiful old forest, and to share its importance with the decision-makers of the future.
“A grove of giant redwoods or sequoias should be kept just as we keep a great or beautiful cathedral.”
– Theodore Roosevelt
Pictures: 06May2022
Tomb Façade – Little Petra
Some time between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD, the Nabataeans – an ancient tribe of Arabian nomads – carved buildings into the sandstone walls of the Siq al-Barid, or Cold Canyon, in Jordan. Even without the elaborate tomb and temple architecture carved into the walls of the sandstone canyons, this mountainous desert terrain – high above sea level – is magnificent.
Adding in the majestic artifacts created over two thousand years ago renders the landscape truly awe-inspiring!
A few hours north of Wadi Rum (see: A Morning in Wadi Rum) and south of the Dead Sea, this high plateau honeycombed with sandstone formations is punctuated with natural and man-made caves and structures.
This is Little Petra: known in Arabic as Siq al-Barid, or Cold Canyon. Six kilometres (four miles) north of the centre of Petra, this smaller – but still amazing – site is included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site-listing for its cultural, archaeological, historical, and aesthetic value.
The buildings were carved out by the Nabataeans (Nabateans) some time between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD. The Nabataeans were a fiercely independent nomadic Bedouin tribe who emerged as a distinct civilization between the 4th and 2nd centuries BCE. The Nabataean Kingdom controlled many of the trade routes between the Arabian and Sinai Peninsulas, bringing its people considerable wealth and influence across the ancient world.
Although no one is sure, archaeologists believe Little Petra was a suburb of Petra, the Nabataean capital, and was meant to house visiting Silk Road traders. The cool of the canyon would have been a perfect place for long-distance travellers to stop: to the east, the Arabian Desert opens up. To the west, the rugged terrain drops down into the Jordan Rift Valley, with lands as low as 400 metres (1,300 ft) below sea level. The immediately surrounding plains were fertile, allowing visiting animal trains to graze extensively, and allowing agriculture – including wine-grape growing – to flourish.
As the name implies, this site is much smaller than Petra itself (Watch this space!). I was pleased that I got to see it before setting foot in the larger and busier archaeological grounds: it allowed me to appreciate its beautiful Hellenistic-influenced architecture without being completely overwhelmed!
Join me on a tour:
Petra Hills
The sign outside the Sita Bazaar – next to the Petra Viewpoint where we alighted our bus for a comfort stop – calls this the “Third Best View in the World.” Wadi Musa – The Valley of Moses
This is a biblical landscape: you can walk down through the valley, past the rock from which Moses reputedly struck water, and on to the Nabataean complex of Petra. Entry to Little Petra
We drove past the bustling town of Wadi Musa and the larger archaeological site of Petra, and parked on the gravel and sand outside Little Petra. Entrance to the Triclinium
We are immediately greeted with the large, rock-cut tomb with a classical façade that sits at the outside of the site. Sometimes called the triclinium (a room containing couches along three sides), the chamber inside was never finished, so the building would never actually have been used as a burial place. Entrance to the Tomb
The rock-cut doorway features two flat relief pillars with quarter columns and Nabataean capitals. The frieze over the doorway incorporates the classical Greco-Roman decorative style adopted by the Nabataeans. Bedouin Souvenirs
There is no entry charge to this site: even the souvenir stands are low-key. Entry to Siq al-Barid
The entry to the canyon is so narrow that we wait for others to exit before trying to get through. Souvenirs or Artifacts Through the Canyon
We work our way through the steep-sided canyon … Through the Siq
… before coming out into more-open areas. Guide in a Cave Room
Our local guide gave us an explanation of what archaeologists think these areas were for. Cave Rooms
There are carved cave entrances everywhere. Woman Spinning
In yet another cave, an Arab woman in Nabataean costume demonstrates how to spin wool. Coffee, Tea, and Trinkets View from the Biclinium
The second, wider, area of Siq al-Barid contains a two-storey rock structure which we access via carved external stone stairs, and which gave us good views over the cliffs on the opposite side. Painting in the Biclinium
The room here contains Nabataean paintings on the stucco walls and ceiling, in what is called a Hellenistic Alexandrian style. Textured Canyon Walls
The walls of the canyon are so textured and pock-marked that the man-made features blend in with those created by nature, … Stairs
… but the natural cliffs are extensively carved with cisterns, cave rooms, and weathered stairways leading in all directions. Rock-cut Staircase
A narrow, steep, and well-worn stairway leads to the top of the canyon … Carved Key
… where I am greeted with ancient artifacts, … View Across the Hills
… and views across the jagged sandstone crags … The Next Wadi
… and into the next rugged wadi, or dry river valley. Kettle on the Fire
There is also the opportunity for a cup of coffee or tea. Back in the Siq al-Barid
I made my way – very carefully – back down the treacherous stairway to the canyon floor … Caves and Cloths
… and back past the two-story biclinium to find my way out of the little complex. I was so glad to have visited this amazing site!
Looking back at my pictures of these two-thousand year-old structures, I continue to be astounded by the engineering abilities and architectural creativity of these ancient people.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 15October2019
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