The Sydney Opera House, Sydney Harbour, Australia.

The Sydney Opera House
Even on overcast days, I love the iconic Opera House – with or without an incoming cruise boat in the background.
(22November2012 -Canon DIGITAL IXUS)

As someone born and raised in the colder reaches of the Northern Hemisphere, I spent much of my life dreaming of a White Christmas. I still have difficulty associating the festive season with hot nights and Summer in the City.

But I love the city of Sydney in the Antipodean summer – and some years I manage to catch some of the Christmas decorations. When my children were small, we would journey into the CBD to enjoy the wonderful Christmas displays in the front windows of the upmarket department stores and to wander around their expansive and magical Santa Departments.

When my husband and I returned to the city after many years of living in Thailand, I went in search of these decorations – only to find the city much changed! (See: Searching for Christmas Spirit).

So, most years now, rather than hunting out the decorations on my regular November and December forays downtown, I treat any finds as serendipitous. I have revisited some (very) old photos from years past in a renewed hunt for some Sydney Christmas Spirit.

Do join me!

Aerial shot over Sydney, Australia

Over the City
Flying into Sydney is almost always a joy; the red tile roofs and greenery make for beautiful contrasts.
(24November2013 – iPhone 4S)

Sydney Port Corporation tugboat spouting water, Sydney Harbour, Australia.

Dancing Waters
I love sitting in Circular Quay over dinner or coffee: there is always a lot of activity to watch on the waters of Sydney Harbour.
(22November2012 – Canon DIGITAL IXUS)

Cruise boats and the Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Opera House, Australia

Watching the Big Ships
People line the waterfront of Bennelong Point outside the Opera House to watch the cruise boats make their stately way into the Overseas Passenger Terminal just around the bend.
(22November2012 -Canon DIGITAL IXUS)

Grace Bros. Broadway, Sydney Australia

Grace Bros. Broadway
Not to be confused with the fictional Grace Brothers from British television, Grace Bros was an Australian department store chain founded in 1885. This building on Broadway – completed in 1923 – was the flagship store. The eighth floor was an exhibition space, and before the building was closed in 1992, my children and I would take the train in from the suburbs on school holidays to visit the latest toy and/or Lego expo there.
(22November2012 – iPhone 4S)

Red flame tree flowers with Sydney Tower in the background, Hyde Park Australia

Sydney Tower Wrapped in Flame
Although the surrounding newer highrises compete, this observation and communications tower – variously known as Westfield Tower, Centrepoint Tower, or AMP Tower – is still my CBD touchstone. Here, I’m looking at it through the early summer flowers of a native Illawarra flame tree (Brachychiton acerifolius) in Hyde Park.
(22November2012 – iPhone 4S)

The Archibald Fountain, Hyde Park Sydney, Australia

The Archibald Fountain
Great Britain, the ‘Old Country’ of colonial days, is heavily referenced in the classical architecture and Anglo place names everywhere around the CBD. In the centre of Hyde Park, we have the Archibald Fountain with the Gothic-style St Mary’s Cathedral in the background.
(22November2012 – iPhone 4S)

Sculpture: Water, Fire and Earth in Hyde Park, Sydney Australia.

Water, Fire and Earth
But, Hyde Park also features some more modern depictions of the past: this sandstone sculpture by Gerard Havekes (1925 – 2011) pays tribute to pioneers: a fisherman who is looking to the future and new horizons, a woman protecting the fires of intuition, initiative, and progress, and a farmer who symbolises the efforts that developed the country.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Christmas decoration on an artificial tree, Hyde Park, Sydney Australia

Hyde Park Tree
Every year an artificial tree is erected in the park; I always try to take selfies in the shiny baubles.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

The University of Sydney, Australia

The University of Sydney
Founded in 1850, Sydney University is the oldest university in Australia; we often went past the sandstone buildings on our morning walks during city-stays.
(24November2012 – iPhone 4S)

Sculpture: The Student, University of Sydney, Australia

The Student
Even the ‘modernist’ public artwork around the old University of Sydney campus is established. This sculpture of a student hunched over a book by sculptor and teacher Tom Bass was acquired by in 1953.
(24November2012 – iPhone 4S)

A pseudo-gas lamp and the Sydney Harbour Bridge against a blue sky, Sydney Australia

Bridge in the Gas Lamp
When you are on Circular Quay, it feels as you could touch the Harbour Bridge directly overhead.
(18December2012 – Canon EOS 5D Mark II)

Cruise ship docked on Sydney Harbour, Australia

Cruise Ship
Gleaming ships in front the Museum of the Contemporary Art add to the summer atmosphere around Circular Quay.
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

The Sydney Harbour Bridge against a blue sky, Sydney Australia

Bridge-Climb
High overhead, a group of climbers are strapped in safely.
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

Young women on The Rocks side of Sydney Harbour, Australia

Photography Homework
Like Grecian nymphs in their summer dresses, a couple of young women set up a camera on the foreshore at The Rocks.
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

A newlywed couple have their wedding photos on Hickson Road with the Opera House in the background, Australia.

Wedding Couple
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

People upstairs, under the Opera House sails, Sydney Australia

People at the Opera House
(25November2013 – iPhone 4S)

Inflated santas, Darling Harbour Sydney Australia

Ho Ho Ho!
Darling Harbour always has a slightly irreverent take on Christmas!
(06December2014 – iPhone 5)

Overhead stylised christmas tree lights, Sydney street, Australia

Christmas Lights
After dark, the city shines.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Colourful Christmas projections, Sydney street, Australia

Christmas Projections
A colourful Pitt Street corner.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Grahame

Grahame’s Corner
The classical façade of the late 19th century heritage-listed commercial and office building known as Grahame’s Corner makes a great canvas for a 21st century seasonal light show.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Text: May the Spirit of the Season be with You.

 

So, it’s a Happy Christmas from the City of Sydney, and a Very Merry Christmas from me.

May the spirit of the season be with you always.

Happy Holidays!

 

 

Grass growing on the Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales

The Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales
There is something serene (and surreal!) about wandering over Roman ruins that are half submerged in grassy fields. During the Middle Ages, this amphitheatre was known as King Arthur’s Round Table, and it has since featured in a number of Arthurian legends.

The expanse of the Roman Empire always astonishes me.

From Hadrian’s Wall and the Antonine Wall in Great Britain, to the southern reaches of what is now Egypt; from the Atlantic Ocean to territories west of the Mediterranean – at its largest, the Empire ruled over 5 million square kilometres (almost 2 million square miles).

But what impresses me even more that the size of their jurisdiction is the legacy that they left behind. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a number of Ancient Roman archaeological sites across Europe and into the Middle East (eg: Roman Ruins) and I’m continually amazed by the engineering prowess that led to some of those impressive structures.

Of course, you don’t maintain a territory of that size without an army.

The Roman legionary were considered the foremost fighting force in the world in their day, with historians praising their effectiveness centuries after their time. As well as being professional heavy infantryman, legionaries were expected to acculturate the conquered population and to serve as a policing force. They also built the large public works projects, such as walls, bridges, and roads – the remnants of which can still be seen across their empire.

Roman Britain was home to three permanent legionary fortresses: the best preserved of these is Isca Augusta or Isca Silurum in what is now Caerleon in South Wales. Isca was founded in 74 or 75 AD and remained the headquarters of the Legion II Augusta until at least 300 AD. It remained relatively undisturbed under the fields and town of Caerleon until full-scale excavations began in 1926. Today, the on-site National Roman Legion Museum displays some of the finds.

My husband and I visited this site many years ago, and marvelled at the immense natatio, or open-air swimming pool, and the only Roman legionary barracks still on view in Europe.

Join us for a short tour of the museum, the baths, and the grounds of the fort itself.

Graphic of the Roman Empire under the Emperor Hadrian, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

The Roman Empire under the Emperor Hadrian

Portrait: Model of a Roman Centurion, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Roman Centurion
Meet Rufinius Primus, a Centurion from the late first century AD. His effigy takes pride of place in the National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales, and his mark is on some of the building stones recovered at the site. His magnificent transverse-crested helmet is one of the signs of his rank.

Model of a Roman Centurion, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Rufinius Primus
Unlike legionary soldiers, Rufinius wears a mail shirt (lorica hamata). Centurions carried a vine-stick (vitis): as a symbol of authority, and to mete out corporal punishment.

Model of a Roman Legionary, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Legionary Soldier
Soldiers in the early Roman Empire wore red or undyed (off-white) woolen tunics under their armour; red was associated with blood and courage.

Detail: Roman legionary plated armour, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Legionary Shoulders
Legionary soldiers usually wore overlapping-plated body armour (lorica segmentata).

A Legionary helmet, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Legionary Helmet
Equipment – especially helmets – was extremely variable, and was often handed down through families. This helmet, with the nose guard, is a style found all across the Empire.

Pottery jug, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Pottery Jug
Exhibits in the museum give a glimpse into everyday life.

Brass handled pot, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Brass Pot

Display of Roman coins, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Roman Coins

Two simple men carved in stone, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Men in Stone
Some of the recovered items have been eroded by time.

Roman lettering on a stone slab, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Roman Lettering
Other stonework is like new.

Roman mosaic floor tiles, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Mosaic Floor Tiles
The mosaic floors typical of the era feature beautiful motifs. This 3rd century AD example is said to be from the Legion headquarters.

The Roman barracks, Caerleon Wales.

The Barracks
These are the only visible remains of Roman Legionary Barracks in Europe. Each of the barracks at Caerleon housed 80-100 men and featured a veranda, red-tiled roof, and greenish glass windows. Four of the original 60 housing blocks remain.

The Roman ruins and modern housing, Caerleon Wales.

The Neighbours
Imagine having a priceless archaeological ruin in your backyard!

Man walking on the Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales

Exploring Caerleon
The misty rain keeps everything green!

Excavated ruins, Caerleon, Wales

Excavated Ruins
At the original ground level, you get a better sense of how things once were.

Entrance to the Amphitheatre, Caerleon, Wales

Entrance to the Amphitheatre

Wooden carving of a woman serving food, Caerleon, Wales

Serving Woman
A modern depiction of a server from the Roman occupation.

Roman Bath, Caerleon, Wales

Roman Bath
The recovered remains of the Roman baths were fascinating: in use from around 74 AD to 287 AD, the complex contains chambers for hot and cold baths, exercise rooms, and this open-air swimming pool. The changing rooms were warmed by an underfloor heating system and lead pipes were used to transport water.

Roman helmet on display, Roman Bath, Caerleon, Wales

Another Roman Helmet
The enclosed bathhouse has a number of items that were found in the vicinity on display, including grooming implements and even this remarkable helmet.

Leather Roman military sandals, Caerleon, Wales

Roman Sandals
You just can’t go past a good leather Roman military sandal!

It was a fascinating glimpse into a world long-gone.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 19July2012

The top of the Treasury, Petra Jordan

The Treasury
Who can forget their first sighting of the awe-inspiring Hellenistic-style mausoleum known as Al-Khazneh, The Treasury! Hewn out of the pink sandstone rock face, it stands almost 40 meters (121 ft) tall. The beautifully carved tholos near the top depicts two victories on either side of a female figure, believed to be the goddess Isis-Tyche.

The ancient Nabatean/Nabataean city of Petra is an absolute marvel.

UNESCO-World Heritage Listed for its “Outstanding Universal Value” and chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, the capital city that the Nabateans cut into the steep pink cliffs of iron-laden sandstone is extraordinarily beautiful.

The city is believed to have been established as early as 312 BC as a trading post by the Nabateans, an Arab Bedouin tribe who emerged as a distinct civilization between the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. These fiercely independent nomads were accustomed to living in these barren deserts that now comprise southwestern Jordan. Their skills in taking advantage of the area’s mountainous terrain, harvesting and managing rainwater, supporting agriculture, and carving stone, led to their becoming prosperous traders who established successful settlements all along the Incense Road. At its peak, the city of Petra housed between 10,000 and 30,000 residents.

In ancient times, Petra might have been approached by a track from the south or via the high plateau to the north, but most modern visitors come in from the east. Starting at the Visitor Centre and Ticket Office, a path runs down to the entry of the natural winding rocky cleft called the Siq. This 1.2km (0.75m) long gorge once had the Wadi Musa streambed running through it. The Nabataeans built a system of dams, cisterns, and conduits that diverted water, creating an artificial oasis and protecting the area from flash flooding.

Petra declined under Roman rule, in part from the gradual changes in trade routes. The Galilee earthquakes in 363 AD damaged buildings and – more importantly – the sophisticated water management system. Residents gradually moved on, and by 700 AD only a scattering of Bedouin lived in and around the city. It was subsequently forgotten by all except a few locals.

The Swiss traveller Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was the first European to describe the site after finding it during his travels of 1812. Today, more than a million tourists visit every year.

I was lucky enough to be one of those visitors in 2019, before the world stopped for Covid.

I was with a group, and had two days in the area with our guide. We started with a morning tour of the smaller – and probably younger – site of Little Petra or Siq al-Barid (Cold Canyon) (see: Little Petra). This provided a bite-sized introduction to the magnificent Nabatean architecture.

In the afternoon, we walked as  through the Siq and to The Treasury, with our guide pointing out all kinds of details which I have since forgotten. We made our way back out of the Wadi Musi on our own, knowing we’d have time to explore more fully the next day.

Join me for some first-day highlights as I walk through the stunning gorge towards the famous Treasury:

Sandstone Djinn Blocks, Petra Jordan

Djinn Blocks
Looking at the sandstone rock formations as you walk into the UNESCO site, it can be hard to discern the natural forms from those carved by the Nabateans over 2000 years ago. The Djinn Blocks are named for the djinns, the genies or spirits, who lived around here. Although no one is quite sure what the purpose of the blocks was, some suggest they are actually funerary monuments.

Obelisk Tomb, Petra Jordan

Obelisk Tomb and the Winding Path
You need water, good shoes, and a hat: it is a three kilometre walk along the Bab as-Siq, the road to the Siq, and through the canyon to the famous Treasury. But, there is plenty to look at along the way. An inscription inside this tomb close to the entry indicates it was probably built in the first century CE.

Petra landscape, Jordan

Petra Landscape

Obelisk Tomb, Petra Jordan

Obelisk Tomb
Further down the path allows a better view of the structure of the Obelisk Tomb: the lower story is a triclinium, a formal dining room for funeral banquets, and the second story contained loculi – little niches – and shaft-graves to house all the family members “forever after”.

Portrait: Bedouin man talking, Petra Jordan

Spice Seller
The Bedouins never fully left this area, and some are still enthusiastic sellers of spices and incense.

Portrait: Bedouin man talking, Petra Jordan

Kohl Eyes and a Silver Janbiya
They say Captain Jack Sparrow was modelled on Keith Richards, but I was often reminded of him here. (iPhone6)

Textured canyon walls, Petra Jordan

Textured Canyon Walls
The walls of the canyon, once we enter it, are textured by time, and punctuated with carvings.

Aedicula in the wall of the Siq, Petra Jordan

Aedicula in the Siq
I learned a lot of classic architectural terms while trying to make sense of the carvings in the sandstone! This weathered aedicula – or niche – on the north of the Siq probably contained a small shrine.

Aedicula in a boulder in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Another Aedicula
The gorge broadens out, and another aedicula is carved into a boulder in the middle. On one canyon wall there was a water-dripping shrine; on the other side there is a cistern.

Sculptured sandstone in the siq, Petra Jordan

Sculptured Sandstone in the Siq

Glimpse of The Treasury through dark canyon walls, Petra Jordan

Light at the end of the Canyon
It is hard to describe the scale of the colonnades of The Treasury, as you first glimpse them though the steep and dark canyon walls.

Glimpse of The Treasury through dark canyon walls, Petra Jordan

Through the Siq

The Treasury, Petra Jordan

Al-Khazneh – The Treasury

Rain at Al-Khazneh, The Treasury, Petra Jordan

Rain at Al-Khazneh
Although this was built as a mausoleum, legends talk of treasures hidden inside. This led to the name Khazneh el-Far’oun : “Treasury of the Pharaoh”, and the damage done by people over the years looking for riches.

Decorated camels, Petra Jordan

Camel Waiting
In the forecourt, decorated camels are ready to give rides to tourists.

Portrait: Bedouin in a black keffiyeh, Petra Jordan

Bedouin in a Black Keffiyeh

Bottles of colourful sand, Petra Jordan

Sand Art
The Outer Siq is scattered with souvenir shops showcasing Nabatean crafts, arts, and foods.

Bedouin man making sand art, Petra Jordan

Sand in a Bottle
A craftsman shows us how the bottles are made: he adds colored sand slowly with a thin stick or funnel, painting the desired picture one layer at a time.

Portrait: smiling Bedouin sand artist, Petra Jordan

Bedouin Sand Artist

Street of Facades, Petra Jordan

Street of Facades
Nabataean burial facades line both sides of the widening Siq.

Walkers in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Back into the Gorge
This is only a short introductory visit, …

Horse riders in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Riders in the Siq
… and we are soon walking back through the gorge.

People and greenery in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Greenery in the Chasm
Plants cling to life on the canyon walls where waters run down; dams like the brick one on the left here break the force of waters that rushes down into the Siq during the rainy season.

Walkers in the Siq, Petra Jordan

A Narrow Cleft
At its narrowest point the walls of the gorge are only 3 metres (10 feet) apart.

A photographer in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Last Looks
In some places, the ancient (or renovated?) road bed is still visible.

I was absolutely awestruck – and so pleased that I had the chance to return the next day and visit some of the other remarkable ruins and remains that Petra has to offer.

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 15October2019

Sailboats on False Creek from Charleson Park, Vancouver BC Canada

Sailboats on False Creek
Vancouver is a city of stylish high-rises, waterways dotted with expensive yachts, and lush urban parks.

One of the things I love about travel is the opportunity to get new perspectives on familiar places.

On several occasions over the course of my life, I have lived, studied, and worked in and around Vancouver – that densely populated metropolis on Canada’s west coast. But that was a long time ago, and on our more recent trips into the country we have spent next-to-no time in the city.

I was mapping out my first trip back to Canada in six years (thanks to Covid and other barriers) when I discovered that renting a car in Vancouver was about half the price of renting one at the airport. So, instead of whizzing through the city enroute to relatives and destinations elsewhere, as was our norm (e.g.: On the BC Ferries), I gave myself a few days downtown to recover from the fifteen hour flight and to explore.

I was thrilled to have the opportunity to play ‘tourist’ in a city I knew from the point of view of a child, an adolescent, and a young university student. So much has changed. So much was the same!

Naturally, the weather was awful. Spring on Canada’s West Coast is always wet – and this spring was wetter than usual. I ruined a pair of shoes and an umbrella! But, I did manage to get out and revisit some familiar sights.

Because of the rain, I was less inclined to pull out the big cameras, and mostly relied on the phone as I walked and bussed around some of the highlights downtown.

Lawn daisies, Vancouver BC Canada

Lawn Daisies – Bellis Perennis
These little flowers always say Vancouver to me! They remind me of childhood visits to parks in the city.

Cherry blossoms overhead, Vancouver BC Canada

Cherry Blossoms
Vancouver is home to 40,000 cherry trees, which make for beautiful spring displays. Everywhere I went, blooms were overhead – and fallen petals were on the sidewalks underfoot.

Fruit in Granville Market, Vancouver BC Canada

Granville Island Public Market
The slums, shacks, and factories that once occupied Granville Island, a peninsula in False Creek, were razed by fire in 1953. With substantial government investment between 1973 and 1982, the area was redeveloped and now houses an extensive fully enclosed food market, as well as shops, restaurants, a marina, a hotel, and other businesses.

Burrard Street Bridge, Vancouver BC Canada

Burrard Street Bridge
Granville Island is a great place to have coffee and watch the activity on False Creek. The art-deco style steel-truss Burrard Street Bridge makes a great backdrop for the many False Creek Ferries which are kept busy shuttling passengers back and forth across the water.

Queen Elizabeth Park
Vancouver has the highest population density in Canada, and the fourth highest in North America. In spite of this, it is easy to find green spaces and a feeling of quiet distance from the madding crowd.

Magnolia blossoms, Queen Elizabeth Park,Vancouver Canada

Magnolia Blossoms
Although some species of magnolias are native, I suspect this is a cultivated import.

Pacific dogwood in bloom, Queen Elizabeth Park,Vancouver Canada

Pacific Dogwood – Cornus Nuttallii
This flower is the floral emblem of British Columbia, and always reminds me of childhood.

Queen Elizabeth Quarry Gardens, Vancouver Canada

Quarry Gardens
This is an iconic Vancouver view that I remember from school visits. In Australia in the 80s, when I took my children to see ‘The Boy Who Could Fly’, I was very excited to recognise this location from a key scene.

Detail: branch of a western red cedar, Queen Elizabeth Park,Vancouver Canada

Mighty Cedars
Another iconic symbol of the Pacific Northwest, the evergreen coniferous western red cedar (Thuja plicata), used to cover this whole region.

Bronze sculpture of three people posing, Queen Elizabeth Park,Vancouver Canada

Photo Session
This delightful life-size cast-bronze sculpture by American artist Seward Johnson (1930 – 2020) was installed at the lookout here at the Bloedel Conservatory in 1984. This is the highest point in Vancouver (125 m /410 ft above sea level), allowing great views of the city, and the North Shore mountains beyond.

Trees in Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver Canada

Tree-Scape
As tempting as it might be to cut across the lawns to shorten my walk back to my accommodation, that grass is sodden!

Gastown Trolley car inside the Spaghetti Factory, Vancouver Canada

Gastown Trolley Car
The next day I set off on a bus, arriving in Gastown – the historic centre of what would later become the City of Vancouver – in time for lunch. Established in 1867 by English Captain John “Gassy Jack” Deighton, Gastown was originally a diverse community of saloons, a brothel, a Chinese laundry, a butcher shop, a missionary church, and several stores and hotels. Over a long and colourful history, the area fell into poverty and disrepute, but was recovered and transformed into a historic tourist precinct in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Tiffany lamps inside the Old Spaghetti Factory, Gastown, Canada

Tiffany Lamps
With its decor designed to reflect Gastown’s historic past, the Old Spaghetti Factory was first opened in 1970. I was so thrilled to see that the interior hadn’t changed since my Saturday evening visits in the 70s! Prices have gone up, but the menu was familiar, tasty, and great value. I think my waiter was wondering why I was so emotional.

Gastown steam clock, Vancouver Canada

Gastown Steam Clock
The old neighbourhood is a mix of real history and reconstruction. This faux-Edwardian steam clock, was designed and built by local clockmaker Raymond Saunders  in 1977 to conceal a steam vent. It whistles a tune every 15 minutes.

Gastown street scene: steam clock and light fittings, Vancouver Canada

Steam Clock and Electric Lights
Of course, the antique street lamps are no longer gas-lit, and the original maple that marked the gathering place for the first settlers burned in the Great Fire of 1886. But, the cobble streets are charming, and plenty of new maples are sending out spring shoots.

High rise apartments at the entry to Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

High-Rises and Green
My next stop was to one of my favourite places: Stanley Park, where luxury high-rises sit near the entry of the a 405-hectare public space.

Vancouver Rowing Club clubhouse, Stanley Park Vancouver Canada

Vancouver Rowing Club
Another prime piece of real estate on Vancouver Harbour is occupied by the heritage-listed VRC clubhouse, built in 1911.

High rises and Lost Lagoon, Vancouver Canada

High Rises and Lost Lagoon

Detail: Pine needles and cones, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Pine Needles in the Rain

The twisting boughs of a fallen tree, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Nature’s Sculpture
Major windstorms have reclaimed thousands of trees over the years in what is still a largely forested area. Some have been replanted, and some lay where they have fallen.

Vancouver Rowing Club on the Seawall, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Vancouver Rowing Club on the Seawall
The park is on a peninsula, and the 8.8-kilometre (5.5 mi) seawall and walkway around it makes for a lovely walk – even in this inclement weather.

Cut tulips and azalia, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Bouquet Found
Someone has left behind a small posey of spring flowers – I can’t help but wonder what the story is!

Totem poles, Brockton Point, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Totem Poles
One of my favourite places in the park is the meadow at Brockton Point, where a number of First Nations cedar totem poles have been erected. Although they are seen everywhere now, totem poles are culturally unique to the northwest coast of BC and lower Alaska.

Thunderbird House Post
A totem pole is like a coat of arms: it tells the story of a person or family. The thunderbird is often described as the most powerful of spirits, and represents power, protection, and strength. House posts were raised to support the huge roof beams in traditional longhouses. Carved by hereditary Kwakwaka’wakw chief and artist Tony Hunt in 1987, this is a replica of one crafted by artist Charlie James in the early 1900s; the original is in the Vancouver Museum.

Chief Skedans Mortuary Pole, Brockton Point, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Chief Skedans Mortuary Pole
Mortuary poles house the remains of a chief – and tell stories of his life. This particular pole was carved in 1964 by the renowned Haida artist Bill Reid (1920 – 1998) and his assistant Werner True. The original pole honouring the Raven Chief of Skedans was raised in the Haida village of Skidgate around 1870.

The Rose Cole Yelton Memorial Pole, Brockton Point, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

The Rose Cole Yelton Memorial Pole
Another thunderbird tops the tribute to Rose Cole Yelton, member of the Squamish Nation and – at the time of her passing in 2002 – the last surviving resident of the Brockton Community who lived on this site until 1935.

Brockton Point Lighthouse, Stanley Park, Vancouver Canada

Brockton Point Lighthouse
A lighthouse was first established here in 1890; this iteration was built in 1914, but has been officially inactive since 2008.

Girl in a Wetsuit on the Great Granite Boulder, Stanley Park, Vancouver

Girl in a Wetsuit
The tide is out, leaving the intertidal granite boulder on the north side of Stanley Park fully exposed. The Girl in a Wetsuit, a life-size bronze sculpture by Elek Imredy, was installed in 1972 as a nod to the (then) new popularity of scuba diving in these waters.

It was a relief to find aspects of the city as beautiful as I remembered them –

Sometimes you can go back!

Until next time …

Pictures: 03-04May2022

Overlooking Machu Picchu, Peru

Overlooking Machu Picchu – Lost City of the Incas
Nothing prepares you for the first sight of those wonderful ruins laid out before you, with the mists snaking around that incredible mountain in the background.

The guide books will tell you it takes 45 minutes to walk down from Machu Picchu into the town of Aguas Calientes.

They don’t tell you how long it takes to walk up, because trekkers normally come down through the Sun Gate and non-trekkers normal bus up the winding hill.

Unfortunately, the year we walked it, the rains had been particularly bad, and part of the trail to the Sun Gate was washed away. This meant that we had to detour down to the town of Aguas Calientes and climb or bus up to Machu Picchu from there. After walking the Inca Trail for three days, however, there was NO way we were NOT going to walk the last stretch.

We broke camp at 4:30 to prepare for the final ascent, straight up into the UNESCO-listed ‘Historic Sanctuary’ of  Machu Picchu itself. Unfortunately, both our guides – who had opted for beds in town – slept in, leaving us stranded for some time by the side of the road in the dark – looooong story. When we finally set off, residual anger mingled with anticipation and sheer grit got us up the hill in 55 minutes: a rise of over 500 meters of sweat-drenched panting steepness. At least there was no altitude to contend with! We arrived at the entry to be met with – you guessed it – more steps leading up, and up, through the agricultural terraces to the main gates.

What can I say about Machu Picchu? Pictures are just no preparation for rounding the bend, and seeing the ruins laid out in the shape of a giant condor before you, against a backdrop of that iconic mountain and the Andes. Awe inspiring – massive beyond comprehension (and I think they said more than one third was still covered over). There truly is a magical energy around the place, even for someone like myself who knew very little about it beforehand. The more we read about the design and construction after returning home with all the books we had bought, the more amazed I became.

Of course, having got there under our own steam made it even sweeter!

Welcome sign, Machu Picchu, Peru

Into the National Archaeological Park
In the early-morning dark, we cross the road from our Aguas Calientes campsite to the bottom of the stairs that will lead us up to the citadel.

Stone steps from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu, Peru

Steps Up …
It is a 500 metre (1640 feet) rise from the valley to the citadel, so naturally, we are met with more steps!

Outer perimeter, Machu Picchu complex, Peru

Outer Perimeter – Machu Picchu
At the top, we find more steps leading up, and up, through the agricultural terraces to the main gates.

Tourists above Machu Picchu, Peru

Us on Machu Picchu
And there it is – stretched out below us. After the effort we’d been through to get here, I think we can be forgiven a touristy selfie!

Machu Picchu and Little Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu
Even though we are only at 2430 m (7,972 ft), clouds cling to the mountain.

Peruvian male guide in front of Machu Picchu.

Guide Roger
Our guide updates us on what archaeologists currently believe about the construction and history of the site.

Grazing llama, Machu Picchu terrace, Peru

Grazing Llama
Site maintenance is greatly reduced when you have roving llamas keeping the grass trimmed.

Guardhouse, Machu Picchu Peru

Guardhouse
Soldiers used to guard the two main entrances to Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu
From here we get a good overview of the floorplan.

Looking down into the Temple of the Sun, Machu Picchu Peru

Temple of the Sun
It is amazing to consider that this sacred precinct, built around 1450, was supposedly put together without mortar.

Industrial and residential areas, Machu Picchu Peru

Industrial and Residential Areas
The complex is a veritable maze of buildings, stretching out neatly in all directions.

Sobralia Dichotoma Orchidaceae, Machu Picchu Peru

Sobralia Dichotoma Orchidaceae
This beautiful native plant was growing all around the site. It is one of the almost 200 classes of orchids registered in the Sanctuary.

Stone terraces, Machu Picchu Peru

Terraces
In the other direction, steep and narrow terraces built to withstand intense rains climb the mountainside. Different crops were grown at different elevations, and water was used to help regulate humidity and temperature.

Industrial and residential areas, Machu Picchu Peru

Tidy Squares

Tourists inside the Principal Temple, Machu Picchu Peru

Inside the Principal Temple
Most of the sacred areas of Machu Picchu are clustered together here in the upper town. This temple, Wayrana, or ‘a very windy place’ in Quechua, is believed to be dedicated mainly to the God Wiracocha, creator of everything in this universe.

Steps up to the Intihuatana Stone, Machu Picchu Peru

Up to the Intihuatana
From the Principal Temple, we can climb up to the Intihuatana Stone,

Intihuatana Stone, Machu Picchu Peru

Intihuatana
… the Solar Clock. Carved from one piece of rock, they say it vibrates with energy but visitors are now prevented from touching it.

Terraces at the edge of Machu Picchu Peru

Edge of the Mountain
As we walk back down, the mountain is shrouded in mists.

The Urubamba Gorge from Machu Picchu Peru

The Urubamba River
It’s a long drop to to the river below – and to the campsite we started out from.

Doorway, Machu Picchu Peru

Doorway
Machu Picchu is built on two seismic fault lines, making render and mortar virtually useless. So, Inca craftsmen shaped blocks of stone to nest together tightly without mortar.

Window on the sky, Machu Picchu Peru

Window
Doors and windows are trapezoidal – narrowing slightly from bottom to top – which also helps stabilise the structure.

Temple of the Condor, Machu Picchu Peru

Temple of the Condor
That scoop of rock below is one of the wings of the sacred condor, the messenger of the skies or heavens. It is an example of the creative use the Inca made of stones in their natural positions.

Temple of the Condor, Machu Picchu Peru

Condor Head and Beak
With a wide-angle lens I would have been able to illustrate this better: the condor’s head and beak are carved into the flat rock on the ground, and the wings rise up either side.

Royal Tomb or Cave of the Sun, Machu Picchu Peru

Royal Tomb
This is another example of creative use of rock: a small natural cave under the Temple of the Sun has an entrance carved into solid rock. It is thought to have been a mausoleum.

The mountains around Machu Picchu, Peru

Into the Valley
I just can’t get over the steepness of the mountain we are on – or of those around us!

Busy street / railway line, Aguas Calientes, Peru

Aguas Calientes
By ten thirty in the morning the hillside was overrun with tourists. Thank heavens we had had an early start! It was time to catch the bus down to town, where we were amused by this converted minibus on the rail line that doubles as a main street.

Empty Coca Cola cases, Aguas Calientes, Peru

Coca Cola
The giant Coca Cola sign welcoming us to the Cusco was the first thing I noticed from the airplane when we arrived in the Andes. It seemed fitting that empty Coke bottles would be my last image of our Inca adventure as we finished it – even though real, locally-grown coca (from which cocaine is extracted) is no longer part of the soft drink recipe.

In spite of tired muscles, I returned to Cusco feeling completely re-energized. Of course, we were all greatly improved by hot showers and clean clothes!

The next morning at breakfast, back in the same hotel we had left four days before, I jumped up and clicked my heels like Mr. Bojangles, in defiance of that woman who had DARED suggest we might not make it (see: The Inca Trail, Day 1)!

Text: ¡Salud!Difficult? Definitely! The trail was a test of physical fitness, pulmonary function, and relationships. Would I do it again? Absolutely!

Just give me another pisco sour…

Pictures: 10April2006