The Treasury Who can forget their first sighting of the awe-inspiring Hellenistic-style mausoleum known as Al-Khazneh, The Treasury! Hewn out of the pink sandstone rock face, it stands almost 40 meters (121 ft) tall. The beautifully carved tholos near the top depicts two victories on either side of a female figure, believed to be the goddess Isis-Tyche.
The ancient Nabatean/Nabataean city of Petra is an absolute marvel.
UNESCO-World Heritage Listed for its “Outstanding Universal Value” and chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, the capital city that the Nabateans cut into the steep pink cliffs of iron-laden sandstone is extraordinarily beautiful.
The city is believed to have been established as early as 312 BC as a trading post by the Nabateans, an Arab Bedouin tribe who emerged as a distinct civilization between the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. These fiercely independent nomads were accustomed to living in these barren deserts that now comprise southwestern Jordan. Their skills in taking advantage of the area’s mountainous terrain, harvesting and managing rainwater, supporting agriculture, and carving stone, led to their becoming prosperous traders who established successful settlements all along the Incense Road. At its peak, the city of Petra housed between 10,000 and 30,000 residents.
In ancient times, Petra might have been approached by a track from the south or via the high plateau to the north, but most modern visitors come in from the east. Starting at the Visitor Centre and Ticket Office, a path runs down to the entry of the natural winding rocky cleft called the Siq. This 1.2km (0.75m) long gorge once had the Wadi Musa streambed running through it. The Nabataeans built a system of dams, cisterns, and conduits that diverted water, creating an artificial oasis and protecting the area from flash flooding.
Petra declined under Roman rule, in part from the gradual changes in trade routes. The Galilee earthquakes in 363 AD damaged buildings and – more importantly – the sophisticated water management system. Residents gradually moved on, and by 700 AD only a scattering of Bedouin lived in and around the city. It was subsequently forgotten by all except a few locals.
The Swiss traveller Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was the first European to describe the site after finding it during his travels of 1812. Today, more than a million tourists visit every year.
I was lucky enough to be one of those visitors in 2019, before the world stopped for Covid.
I was with a group, and had two days in the area with our guide. We started with a morning tour of the smaller – and probably younger – site of Little Petra or Siq al-Barid (Cold Canyon) (see: Little Petra). This provided a bite-sized introduction to the magnificent Nabatean architecture.
In the afternoon, we walked as through the Siq and to The Treasury, with our guide pointing out all kinds of details which I have since forgotten. We made our way back out of the Wadi Musi on our own, knowing we’d have time to explore more fully the next day.
Join me for some first-day highlights as I walk through the stunning gorge towards the famous Treasury:
Djinn Blocks Looking at the sandstone rock formations as you walk into the UNESCO site, it can be hard to discern the natural forms from those carved by the Nabateans over 2000 years ago. The Djinn Blocks are named for the djinns, the genies or spirits, who lived around here. Although no one is quite sure what the purpose of the blocks was, some suggest they are actually funerary monuments.
Obelisk Tomb and the Winding Path You need water, good shoes, and a hat: it is a three kilometre walk along the Bab as-Siq, the road to the Siq, and through the canyon to the famous Treasury. But, there is plenty to look at along the way. An inscription inside this tomb close to the entry indicates it was probably built in the first century CE.
Petra Landscape
Obelisk Tomb Further down the path allows a better view of the structure of the Obelisk Tomb: the lower story is a triclinium, a formal dining room for funeral banquets, and the second story contained loculi – little niches – and shaft-graves to house all the family members “forever after”.
Spice Seller The Bedouins never fully left this area, and some are still enthusiastic sellers of spices and incense.
Kohl Eyes and a Silver Janbiya They say Captain Jack Sparrow was modelled on Keith Richards, but I was often reminded of him here. (iPhone6)
Textured Canyon Walls The walls of the canyon, once we enter it, are textured by time, and punctuated with carvings.
Aedicula in the Siq I learned a lot of classic architectural terms while trying to make sense of the carvings in the sandstone! This weathered aedicula – or niche – on the north of the Siq probably contained a small shrine.
Another Aedicula The gorge broadens out, and another aedicula is carved into a boulder in the middle. On one canyon wall there was a water-dripping shrine; on the other side there is a cistern.
Sculptured Sandstone in the Siq
Light at the end of the Canyon It is hard to describe the scale of the colonnades of The Treasury, as you first glimpse them though the steep and dark canyon walls.
Through the Siq
Al-Khazneh – The Treasury
Rain at Al-Khazneh Although this was built as a mausoleum, legends talk of treasures hidden inside. This led to the name Khazneh el-Far’oun : “Treasury of the Pharaoh”, and the damage done by people over the years looking for riches.
Camel Waiting In the forecourt, decorated camels are ready to give rides to tourists.
Bedouin in a Black Keffiyeh
Sand Art The Outer Siq is scattered with souvenir shops showcasing Nabatean crafts, arts, and foods.
Sand in a Bottle A craftsman shows us how the bottles are made: he adds colored sand slowly with a thin stick or funnel, painting the desired picture one layer at a time.
Bedouin Sand Artist
Street of Facades Nabataean burial facades line both sides of the widening Siq.
Back into the Gorge This is only a short introductory visit, …
Riders in the Siq … and we are soon walking back through the gorge.
Greenery in the Chasm Plants cling to life on the canyon walls where waters run down; dams like the brick one on the left here break the force of waters that rushes down into the Siq during the rainy season.
A Narrow Cleft At its narrowest point the walls of the gorge are only 3 metres (10 feet) apart.
Last Looks In some places, the ancient (or renovated?) road bed is still visible.
I was absolutely awestruck – and so pleased that I had the chance to return the next day and visit some of the other remarkable ruins and remains that Petra has to offer.
Sailboats on False Creek Vancouver is a city of stylish high-rises, waterways dotted with expensive yachts, and lush urban parks.
One of the things I love about travel is the opportunity to get new perspectives on familiar places.
On several occasions over the course of my life, I have lived, studied, and worked in and around Vancouver – that densely populated metropolis on Canada’s west coast. But that was a long time ago, and on our more recent trips into the country we have spent next-to-no time in the city.
I was mapping out my first trip back to Canada in six years (thanks to Covid and other barriers) when I discovered that renting a car in Vancouver was about half the price of renting one at the airport. So, instead of whizzing through the city enroute to relatives and destinations elsewhere, as was our norm (e.g.: On the BC Ferries), I gave myself a few days downtown to recover from the fifteen hour flight and to explore.
I was thrilled to have the opportunity to play ‘tourist’ in a city I knew from the point of view of a child, an adolescent, and a young university student. So much has changed. So much was the same!
Naturally, the weather was awful. Spring on Canada’s West Coast is always wet – and this spring was wetter than usual. I ruined a pair of shoes and an umbrella! But, I did manage to get out and revisit some familiar sights.
Because of the rain, I was less inclined to pull out the big cameras, and mostly relied on the phone as I walked and bussed around some of the highlights downtown.
Lawn Daisies – Bellis Perennis These little flowers always say Vancouver to me! They remind me of childhood visits to parks in the city.
Cherry Blossoms Vancouver is home to 40,000 cherry trees, which make for beautiful spring displays. Everywhere I went, blooms were overhead – and fallen petals were on the sidewalks underfoot.
Granville Island Public Market The slums, shacks, and factories that once occupied Granville Island, a peninsula in False Creek, were razed by fire in 1953. With substantial government investment between 1973 and 1982, the area was redeveloped and now houses an extensive fully enclosed food market, as well as shops, restaurants, a marina, a hotel, and other businesses.
Burrard Street Bridge Granville Island is a great place to have coffee and watch the activity on False Creek. The art-deco style steel-truss Burrard Street Bridge makes a great backdrop for the many False Creek Ferries which are kept busy shuttling passengers back and forth across the water.
Queen Elizabeth Park Vancouver has the highest population density in Canada, and the fourth highest in North America. In spite of this, it is easy to find green spaces and a feeling of quiet distance from the madding crowd.
Magnolia Blossoms Although some species of magnolias are native, I suspect this is a cultivated import.
Pacific Dogwood – Cornus Nuttallii This flower is the floral emblem of British Columbia, and always reminds me of childhood.
Quarry Gardens This is an iconic Vancouver view that I remember from school visits. In Australia in the 80s, when I took my children to see ‘The Boy Who Could Fly’, I was very excited to recognise this location from a key scene.
Mighty Cedars Another iconic symbol of the Pacific Northwest, the evergreen coniferous western red cedar (Thuja plicata), used to cover this whole region.
Photo Session This delightful life-size cast-bronze sculpture by American artist Seward Johnson (1930 – 2020) was installed at the lookout here at the Bloedel Conservatory in 1984. This is the highest point in Vancouver (125 m /410 ft above sea level), allowing great views of the city, and the North Shore mountains beyond.
Tree-Scape As tempting as it might be to cut across the lawns to shorten my walk back to my accommodation, that grass is sodden!
Gastown Trolley Car The next day I set off on a bus, arriving in Gastown – the historic centre of what would later become the City of Vancouver – in time for lunch. Established in 1867 by English Captain John “Gassy Jack” Deighton, Gastown was originally a diverse community of saloons, a brothel, a Chinese laundry, a butcher shop, a missionary church, and several stores and hotels. Over a long and colourful history, the area fell into poverty and disrepute, but was recovered and transformed into a historic tourist precinct in the late 1960s and early 1970s.
Tiffany Lamps With its decor designed to reflect Gastown’s historic past, the Old Spaghetti Factory was first opened in 1970. I was so thrilled to see that the interior hadn’t changed since my Saturday evening visits in the 70s! Prices have gone up, but the menu was familiar, tasty, and great value. I think my waiter was wondering why I was so emotional.
Gastown Steam Clock The old neighbourhood is a mix of real history and reconstruction. This faux-Edwardian steam clock, was designed and built by local clockmaker Raymond Saunders in 1977 to conceal a steam vent. It whistles a tune every 15 minutes.
Steam Clock and Electric Lights Of course, the antique street lamps are no longer gas-lit, and the original maple that marked the gathering place for the first settlers burned in the Great Fire of 1886. But, the cobble streets are charming, and plenty of new maples are sending out spring shoots.
High-Rises and Green My next stop was to one of my favourite places: Stanley Park, where luxury high-rises sit near the entry of the a 405-hectare public space.
Vancouver Rowing Club Another prime piece of real estate on Vancouver Harbour is occupied by the heritage-listed VRC clubhouse, built in 1911.
High Rises and Lost Lagoon
Pine Needles in the Rain
Nature’s Sculpture Major windstorms have reclaimed thousands of trees over the years in what is still a largely forested area. Some have been replanted, and some lay where they have fallen.
Vancouver Rowing Club on the Seawall The park is on a peninsula, and the 8.8-kilometre (5.5 mi) seawall and walkway around it makes for a lovely walk – even in this inclement weather.
Bouquet Found Someone has left behind a small posey of spring flowers – I can’t help but wonder what the story is!
Totem Poles One of my favourite places in the park is the meadow at Brockton Point, where a number of First Nations cedar totem poles have been erected. Although they are seen everywhere now, totem poles are culturally unique to the northwest coast of BC and lower Alaska.
Thunderbird House Post A totem pole is like a coat of arms: it tells the story of a person or family. The thunderbird is often described as the most powerful of spirits, and represents power, protection, and strength. House posts were raised to support the huge roof beams in traditional longhouses. Carved by hereditary Kwakwaka’wakw chief and artist Tony Hunt in 1987, this is a replica of one crafted by artist Charlie James in the early 1900s; the original is in the Vancouver Museum.
Chief Skedans Mortuary Pole Mortuary poles house the remains of a chief – and tell stories of his life. This particular pole was carved in 1964 by the renowned Haida artist Bill Reid (1920 – 1998) and his assistant Werner True. The original pole honouring the Raven Chief of Skedans was raised in the Haida village of Skidgate around 1870.
The Rose Cole Yelton Memorial Pole Another thunderbird tops the tribute to Rose Cole Yelton, member of the Squamish Nation and – at the time of her passing in 2002 – the last surviving resident of the Brockton Community who lived on this site until 1935.
Brockton Point Lighthouse A lighthouse was first established here in 1890; this iteration was built in 1914, but has been officially inactive since 2008.
Girl in a Wetsuit The tide is out, leaving the intertidal granite boulder on the north side of Stanley Park fully exposed. The Girl in a Wetsuit, a life-size bronze sculpture by Elek Imredy, was installed in 1972 as a nod to the (then) new popularity of scuba diving in these waters.
It was a relief to find aspects of the city as beautiful as I remembered them –
Overlooking Machu Picchu – Lost City of the Incas Nothing prepares you for the first sight of those wonderful ruins laid out before you, with the mists snaking around that incredible mountain in the background.
The guide books will tell you it takes 45 minutes to walk down from Machu Picchu into the town of Aguas Calientes.
They don’t tell you how long it takes to walk up, because trekkers normally come down through the Sun Gate and non-trekkers normal bus up the winding hill.
Unfortunately, the year we walked it, the rains had been particularly bad, and part of the trail to the Sun Gate was washed away. This meant that we had to detour down to the town of Aguas Calientes and climb or bus up to Machu Picchu from there. After walking the Inca Trail for three days, however, there was NO way we were NOT going to walk the last stretch.
We broke camp at 4:30 to prepare for the final ascent, straight up into the UNESCO-listed ‘Historic Sanctuary’ of Machu Picchu itself. Unfortunately, both our guides – who had opted for beds in town – slept in, leaving us stranded for some time by the side of the road in the dark – looooong story. When we finally set off, residual anger mingled with anticipation and sheer grit got us up the hill in 55 minutes: a rise of over 500 meters of sweat-drenched panting steepness. At least there was no altitude to contend with! We arrived at the entry to be met with – you guessed it – more steps leading up, and up, through the agricultural terraces to the main gates.
What can I say about Machu Picchu? Pictures are just no preparation for rounding the bend, and seeing the ruins laid out in the shape of a giant condor before you, against a backdrop of that iconic mountain and the Andes. Awe inspiring – massive beyond comprehension (and I think they said more than one third was still covered over). There truly is a magical energy around the place, even for someone like myself who knew very little about it beforehand. The more we read about the design and construction after returning home with all the books we had bought, the more amazed I became.
Of course, having got there under our own steam made it even sweeter!
Into the National Archaeological Park In the early-morning dark, we cross the road from our Aguas Calientes campsite to the bottom of the stairs that will lead us up to the citadel.
Steps Up … It is a 500 metre (1640 feet) rise from the valley to the citadel, so naturally, we are met with more steps!
Outer Perimeter – Machu Picchu At the top, we find more steps leading up, and up, through the agricultural terraces to the main gates.
Us on Machu Picchu And there it is – stretched out below us. After the effort we’d been through to get here, I think we can be forgiven a touristy selfie!
Machu Picchu Even though we are only at 2430 m (7,972 ft), clouds cling to the mountain.
Guide Roger Our guide updates us on what archaeologists currently believe about the construction and history of the site.
Grazing Llama Site maintenance is greatly reduced when you have roving llamas keeping the grass trimmed.
Guardhouse Soldiers used to guard the two main entrances to Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu From here we get a good overview of the floorplan.
Temple of the Sun It is amazing to consider that this sacred precinct, built around 1450, was supposedly put together without mortar.
Industrial and Residential Areas The complex is a veritable maze of buildings, stretching out neatly in all directions.
Sobralia Dichotoma Orchidaceae This beautiful native plant was growing all around the site. It is one of the almost 200 classes of orchids registered in the Sanctuary.
Terraces In the other direction, steep and narrow terraces built to withstand intense rains climb the mountainside. Different crops were grown at different elevations, and water was used to help regulate humidity and temperature.
Tidy Squares
Inside the Principal Temple Most of the sacred areas of Machu Picchu are clustered together here in the upper town. This temple, Wayrana, or ‘a very windy place’ in Quechua, is believed to be dedicated mainly to the God Wiracocha, creator of everything in this universe.
Up to the Intihuatana From the Principal Temple, we can climb up to the Intihuatana Stone, …
Intihuatana … the Solar Clock. Carved from one piece of rock, they say it vibrates with energy but visitors are now prevented from touching it.
Edge of the Mountain As we walk back down, the mountain is shrouded in mists.
The Urubamba River It’s a long drop to to the river below – and to the campsite we started out from.
Doorway Machu Picchu is built on two seismic fault lines, making render and mortar virtually useless. So, Inca craftsmen shaped blocks of stone to nest together tightly without mortar.
Window Doors and windows are trapezoidal – narrowing slightly from bottom to top – which also helps stabilise the structure.
Temple of the Condor That scoop of rock below is one of the wings of the sacred condor, the messenger of the skies or heavens. It is an example of the creative use the Inca made of stones in their natural positions.
Condor Head and Beak With a wide-angle lens I would have been able to illustrate this better: the condor’s head and beak are carved into the flat rock on the ground, and the wings rise up either side.
Royal Tomb This is another example of creative use of rock: a small natural cave under the Temple of the Sun has an entrance carved into solid rock. It is thought to have been a mausoleum.
Into the Valley I just can’t get over the steepness of the mountain we are on – or of those around us!
Aguas Calientes By ten thirty in the morning the hillside was overrun with tourists. Thank heavens we had had an early start! It was time to catch the bus down to town, where we were amused by this converted minibus on the rail line that doubles as a main street.
Coca Cola The giant Coca Cola sign welcoming us to the Cusco was the first thing I noticed from the airplane when we arrived in the Andes. It seemed fitting that empty Coke bottles would be my last image of our Inca adventure as we finished it – even though real, locally-grown coca (from which cocaine is extracted) is no longer part of the soft drink recipe.
In spite of tired muscles, I returned to Cusco feeling completely re-energized. Of course, we were all greatly improved by hot showers and clean clothes!
The next morning at breakfast, back in the same hotel we had left four days before, I jumped up and clicked my heels like Mr. Bojangles, in defiance of that woman who had DARED suggest we might not make it (see: The Inca Trail, Day 1)!
Difficult? Definitely! The trail was a test of physical fitness, pulmonary function, and relationships. Would I do it again? Absolutely!
Drawing in Ink and Wash The Panboola Wetlands are an inspiration to artists – amateur and professional alike. This participant in a workshop guided by local visual artist and arts educator Veronica O’Leary, is drawing on her natural surroundings while practicing new techniques.
It’s hard to believe it is only just over 18 months since I last posted about Panboola (see: The Ephemeral Festival) – a precious and cherished wetland reserve in my neighbourhood.
It feels much longer: probably because, like the rest of the world, we’ve been doing it tough in our corner. Much of that period, we have been subjected to Covid-19 restrictions and flooding rains – and those tribulations have come hard on the heels of long-standing drought and devastating bushfires. Natural spaces, like Panboola, have been a much-needed balm for the soul.
The wetlands only exist as a community space because one individual: local resident and animal-lover, Alexandra Seddon, originally purchased a 6-hectares lot to conserve it as a sanctuary for the resident birds. Over the years, through a variety of means, this space has been expanded. On Sunday, the 6th of November 2022, we celebrated Panboola’s 20th anniversary, happily proclaiming “20 years of connecting community through conservation”. The celebrations included exhibits, music, workshops, food (including a birthday cake), and visiting dignitaries.
Of course, the anniversary date was not exact: once again an event had been postponed (and relocated!) because of bad weather. And, while 2022 is the anniversary of the formation of the Pambula Wetlands and Heritage Reserve (PWHR), both the lands and the management of them have changed and grown over that time.
When I first looked back over the photos I had taken on the day, I was a bit alarmed that they do not give much of a ‘sense of place’, and are, instead, predominantly portraits. Upon reflection, this is probably appropriate, because it is the Management Committee, the private and civic benefactors, the paid Coordinator and unpaid volunteers, and the appreciative community, that make this space what it is.
I have posted photos of the land itself before (see: North of Eden).
This time, however, join me for a focus on the people.
Setting Up A range of community services, local artists, and regional chapters of nature organisations have set up displays or stalls, dotted around the grounds.
Kids with their Origami Under the imprimatur of the Community Peace Harmony Project, children …
Hands on the Origami … work through the steps in folding origami cranes.
A Boy and the Cranes Of course, there is always one who wants to see how to undo them!
Paper Cranes in the Trees The origami is auspiced by the Community Peace & Harmony Project.
In the Trees In addition to the cranes, the flowering trees are adorned with colourful bits of crochet in various forms.
Skittles In keeping with the philosophy of reducing environmental impact, Panboola makes lawn games like skittles – rather than fixed facilities – available.
Beyond the Path A father and daughter explore one of the moveable sculptures on display for the day.
Artist at Work Veronica O’Leary, local visual artist and arts educator, demonstrates drawing techniques in a workshop …
Panboola in Ink and Wash … that takes inspiration from the immediate surrounds: the wildlife, the flora and the landscape of the wetlands.
Drawing in Ink and Wash Workshop participants are focused and productive.
Billy and Bloom Coffee & Tea Small local businesses contribute their services at reduced prices to support the party.
Michelle Richmond’s Orb Nearby Tharwa Valley Forge runs workshops on blacksmithing, leatherwork, and metalwork – among other things. The sculptured orbs that participants have produced make a wonderful addition to the wetlands environment.
Barbara Haseloff and Dr Michael Holland Mid-morning, we are all invited back to marquee for the formal proceedings – complete with dignitaries. Our local State Parliament Member is greeted by a member of the Management Committee.
John Dawson The Committee President opens the birthday proceedings …
Robyn Kesby … and the Committee Secretary recounts the history of the wetlands.
Audience in the Tent
Dr Michael Holland Our local Member for Bega makes his remarks – talking about his personal love of wetlands and marshes.
Birthday Cake Naturally, an anniversary or birthday requires a cake – which is cut by Committee Members, past and present.
Grazing Table The free-form food table is a beautiful compliment to the natural surroundings.
Wood Carver On the wetlands, local craftsmen …
New Moon Spoons … display their wares, and demonstrate how to make them.
Layers of History The Venetian harbour of Rethymno first operated some time after 961, during the Byzantine period. Today, lined with modern cafes and tour boats, it is a place for locals to fish and tourists to wander. The Egyptian lighthouse that marks the port entrance was built some time in the 1830s.
Crete, in the Mediterranean Sea, is Greece’s southern-most administrative region and the country’s largest and most populous island. The landscape has given up artifacts that are evidence of human settlement as early as 130,000 years ago. Even today, there are ruins and buildings dating across several civilizations.
The island’s long (1,046 km (650 mi)) and beautiful coastline is bounded in the north by the Aegean Sea and by the Libyan Sea in the south. The land is craggy and mountainous: about 5 to 10 million years ago, an intense tectonic uplift of the whole Cretan area gave rise to the many gorges, caves, and plateaus found today (see: The Formation of the Cretan Gorges). A high range – comprised of six different groups of mountains – crosses the island from west to east.
The most mountainous region is Rethymno (Rethymnon), the smallest prefecture on Crete. It runs north-south, with the White Mountains forming a border in the west, and Mt. Psiloritis delineating the east.
I was there on a tour-bus day-trip. We had started in the early morning in Heraklion, the prefecture to the east, and had driven along the rugged north coast before turning at Rethymno and following the winding, precipitous mountain highway south to Preveli. Once there, I had time to walk down the steep and rocky cliff path to a beautiful beach, where I could bathe in the Libyan Sea and walk through a rare and precious forest of Theophrastus palms (Phoenix theophrasti) (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest).
The return trip followed the same narrow and winding highway north through the spectacular Kourtaliotiko Gorge (Asomatos Gorge). This time, however, we stopped briefly to admire the jagged carbonate rocks that made up the gorge and the little hermitage or chapel that is nestled into one of the sides.
We also stopped in the beautiful and historically rich capital city of Rethymno, originally founded during the Minoan civilization (3500 – 1100 BC), and still showing architectural evidence of the Venetian occupation (circa 1250 – 1646), as well as the subsequent conquest by the Ottoman Empire (1646 – 1941). I wandered the streets, admiring the abundance of local produce, the unique shopping, and the centuries of architectural history.
Coastline from the Bus As our bus takes us north, away from Preveli Beach (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest), I look back over the rugged landscape that defines southern Crete. (iPhone12Pro)
Venetian Bridge While we were driving, I was glad to catch sight of this much-photographed Venetian Bridge over the Megalopotamos River. (iPhone12Pro)
Kourtaliotiko Gorge We hadn’t been on the road long when we stopped briefly to admire the jagged rocks of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge …
Hermitage or Shrine in Kourtaliotiko Gorge … and the once-isolated shrine, nestled into the mountainside where the highway now runs.
Drivers We weren’t the only bus stopping, and our driver was happy to share a brief smoke and chat with an old friend.
Tour Guides and Bus Drivers
Fishing Boats I started my city walk in the historic Rethymno Harbour, …
Textured Walls … where old buildings speak of days gone by.
New Lamp : Old Walls
Knossos Tavern Colourful coffee shops and taverns, named for local persons and places, promise fresh and tasty food.
Archaeological Museum of Rethymno Now housing many artifacts from the ancient Minoan ruins nearby, the Church of Saint Francis dates back to the beginning of the 16th century.
Shopping Streets Tourist shops, with everything from fine gold to local herbs, are nestled into the narrow Venetian streets.
Ceramic Door Knobs
Tourist Trinkets Shops aimed squarely at tourists offer figurines depicting local heroes from Minoan and Greek mythology.
The Great Gate – Porta Guora A Venetian gate remains from a 16th century fortress …
Old City Gate … and still makes for a grand entryway into and out of the Old Town.
The Church of Four Martyrs This relatively new church, inaugurated in 1975, is built near the spot where four men from Rethymno were executed in 1824 by the Turks for refusing to convert to Islam. They were honoured as Orthodox saints in 1837.
City Park and Urban Art The nearby Rethymnon Municipal Garden is a pleasant break from the city streets. (iPhone12Pro)
Kostis Giampoudakis Identified as a local hero, Giampoudakis died while battling the Ottoman Turks as part of the Cretan rebellion in 1866 at Arkadi Monastery. (iPhone12Pro)
Ancient Fountain – New Restaurant New development in the ancient city of Rethymno has had to incorporate ancient ruins and remains. The Rimondi Venetian Fountain, with its elegant Corinthian capitals, adds a pleasant coolness to an inner-city space.
The Rimondi Fountain Eight fountains in Rethymno are preserved; this one, built in 1626, is the only one from the Venetian years. According to legend, drinking the waters here guarantee eternal youth.
Old Street with an Enclosed Balcony The Old City includes some elegant examples of Ottoman architecture.
Doorways I spent some time exploring the more “ordinary” streets in the Old City.
Street Art and Body Art The Old City is a delightful mix of preserved buildings and modern colour.
Lighthouse on Rethymno Harbour My walk finishes where I started – on the historically layered waterfront.
Fortunately, I have learned to set my walking app to trace my path when I walk through new locations. It – like Ariadne’s thread – was able to lead me back through the labyrinth of streets to the bus in time for the drive back.
And, I took a little bit of the region home with me: I am still enjoying the rich smells of the beautifully packaged Cretan mountain herbs I bought in one of the many tourist shops.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Until then,
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Sometimes you can go back!
Difficult? Definitely! The trail was a test of physical fitness, pulmonary function, and relationships. Would I do it again? Absolutely!.jpg)
