The Theater, Petra Jordon

Petra Theater
The monumental theater at Petra is a semicircular auditorium carved directly into the rosy rock. Stonemasons’ marks date the original theatre to the early first century AD, but it was then expanded after the Roman annexation in 106 AD. Older tombs, the remains of which can be seen on the smoothed back wall, were sliced into to make more space.

It was not yet 7:30am. I’m not a morning person, but I was excited!

Our bus was already in the car park outside the Petra Visitor Centre. In an attempt to beat the heat and the crowds, my fellow travellers and I were making our way into this magical ancient city early. We had gone on a walk as far as The Treasury with our guide the afternoon before (see: Petra: Nabataean Marvel), and had our tickets and our maps in hand for a day of independent exploration.

It is hard to know which is more beautiful: the colourful, variegated rocks themselves, or the magnificent Hellenistic architecture that is half-built, half-carved into the surrounding mountains and gorges. The city of Petra was both a necropolis and a busy, lived-in space: the Nabateans (Nabataeans) buried their dead in intricate tombs that were cut out of the rock, but they were also active traders, living onsite and growing wealthy through hosting passing caravans laden with frankincense, myrrh, and exotic spices. After the Roman annexation, the city’s temples and theater were further expanded; during the later Byzantine period, a colonnaded street and churches were added.

Petra was already an established city and the capital of the Nabatean empire before the 1st century BC. The Nabateans were masters at managing water: they built dams to slow flash-flooding; cisterns to store water though long droughts; and conduit systems to manage the flow around the network. The city – particularly this ingenious water management system – was significantly damaged by the Galalea earthquakes in 363 AD, making it unable to support its previous population. Mostly deserted by the 7th century, this once prosperous site was almost forgotten until a Swiss explorer – posing as an Arab – persuaded a Bedouin guide to take him to the ‘lost city’.

Of course, the city was not lost to those Bedouin who continued to live there until they were forcibly removed in 1985 – in time for UNESCO to list Petra and its Bedouin heritage for “Outstanding Universal Value”. Today, a few traders, souvenir sales-people, and pony-ride operators, still camp out in the area.

Almost 50,000 foreigners visit each year. Some years ago, I was happy to finally be one of them! Do join me for some exploration:

People on the path towards the Siq, Petra Jordan.

Walking into Petra
It is an almost two-kilometre walk through some of the more-than-a-thousand tombs in Petra to the start of the Siq – the kilometre long gorge – to the heart of the city.

Portrait: young Bedouin man in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Bedouin Selling Silver
Inside the Siq, Bedouin hawkers have local products for sale.

Walkers in the Siq, Petra Jordan

In the Siq
The Siq is stunningly beautiful a natural geological phenomenon.

Textured canyon walls, Petra Jordan

Textured Canyon Walls
All around Petra, the rocks are endlessly intriguing.

Two Bedouin men in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Cleaners In the Siq
The colours and patterns of the canyon walls change at every turn.

Greenery in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Greenery in the Siq

Sandstone camel feet in the siq, Petra Jordan

Caravan Relief
These larger-than-life camel feet are part of what was a camel caravan relief sculptured in sandstone.

Walkers in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Lines and Curves
On both sides of the passage, there are rock-cut water channels from the original Nabatean water conduit system.

Walkers in the Siq, Petra Jordan

Another bend in the Siq

Narrow spot in the Siq, Petra Jordan

The Gorge Narrows
In places, the Siq is only 3–4 m (10–13 ft) wide.

Street of Facades, Petra Jordan

In the Street of Façades

Tomb BD 69 in the Street of Facades, Petra Jordan

Tomb BD 69 in the Street of Façades
Considering these tombs were probably built between the last third of the 1st century BC and the middle of the 1st century AD, the carving is remarkably detailed.

Tomb BD 70 in the Street of Facades, Petra Jordan

Colours and Textures on Tomb BD 70

The Theatre, Petra Jordon

The Theatre
I love the rose colour of the seats in the cavea and the colourful striations in the rock face in the back around the ‘windows’ into the old tombs that were sliced open when the theater’s auditorium was enlarged.

Camels and caves, Petra Jordon

Camels and Caves

Royal Tombs, Petra Jordon

Royal Tombs
High on the western slope of the Jabal al-Khubtha, the impressive façades of some large mausoleums are carved into the rock.

The Urn Tomb, Petra Jordon

The Urn Tomb – Tomb BD 772
These elaborate tombs are believed to be royal, but there is insufficient archaeological evidence to tie them to particular rulers.

Royal Tombs, Petra Jordon

Jabal al-Khubtha
The Urn Tomb is flanked to the left by the Silk or Streaked Tomb (BD 770). On the left of that is the Corinthian Tomb (BD 776), so called because of its capitals. The Palace Tomb (BD 765) rounds the hill.

Detail: Capitals and bricks on the Colonnaded Street, Petra Jordon

Colonnaded Street
Beautifully carved capitals lie tumbled on the old street that was refurbished by the Romans.

The Qasr al-Bint at the end of the road, Petra Jordon

Temenos Gate and the Qasr al-Bint
Dedicated to the Nabataean God Dushara, the 1st century square building beyond the gate was the city’s most important temple.

Donkeys outside the cella of the Qasr al-Bint, Petra Jordon

Donkeys and the Qasr al-Bint
Tourists are not allowed in the CellaThe Cult Chamber of the Qasr al-Bint – and it is fenced off.

View over the Back Exit to Petra, Jordon

Back Exit
As I hike up the hill to The Church, I have good views over the Petra hills and the back exit to the Archaeological Park.

Byzantine Church, Petra Jordan

Byzantine Church
This Byzantine-era Petra Church was built in 5th Century AD after the destruction of previous buildings.

Mosaic floor, Byzantine Church, Petra Jordan

Early 6th Century Mosaics
These mosaics in the northern aisle depict a wide variety of everyday things including animals, people, pottery, seasons, plants, etc.

Capital, Byzantine Church, Petra Jordan

Capital
The south aisle contains intricately carved capitals as well as mosaics.

Path from the Church, Petra Jordon

Path from The Church
On my return to the main walkway, I pause to look back to the dramatic rocks on the hills around the church.

It was time for a break and a Jordanian coffee before starting out on the steep Ad-Deir Trail towards the Monastery – but that’s for another time.

Text: Happy RamblingUntil then, 

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 16October2019

Newari man and woman bricklaying on an upper story of a Bungamati house, Nepal

Working Together
A husband and wife have their hands full rebuilding the wreckage of their home in Bungamati, Nepal, almost two years after the devastating earthquake in April, 2015.

In the traditional town of Bungamati – or Amarapur – in the fertile Kathmandu Valley about nine kilometres to the south of Kathmandu, people live and farm simply, much as they have for generations. These are the Newars (Newari): the historical inhabitants of the region.

This settlement site has probably existed since at least the Kirati period (800 BC–300 AD), with concrete evidence dated to 605 AD, in the form of a stele dedicated to King Amshuverma who reigned during the Licchavi Kingdom (400 to 750 CE).

This traditional antiquity comes at a price. Most of the houses were made of traditional mud and brick, so the April 2015 Nepal earthquake (also known as the Gorkha earthquake) caused massive damage – including the destruction of the Machhindranath Temple, which was the central ritual focus of town. According to one site: Machindranath … before modern-day Hinduism and Buddhism, was the most revered God in this part of the world.

I was on a workshop with photographers Jack Kurtz (sadly, now deceased) and Gavin Gough and was visiting some of the historic Newar villages in the region (see: Making Mustard Oil). At that time, almost two years after the earthquake, Bungamati’s residential homes and historic monuments remained in ruins.

All the restoration work that I could see was being done manually, and much of it seemed to be undertaken by the property holders themselves. Although touted as a centre for traditional Nepali woodcarving (more on that some other time), the town had clearly not received the support necessary to rebuild, and many people were still living in damaged buildings or temporary housing.

And yet, life goes on and people keep smiling. Join me for a walk in the ruins.

Dirt road into Bungamati, Nepal.

Bungamati Street
We entered the historic little centre via a dusty road flanked by piles of construction materials and buildings in disrepair.

Damaged house front, Bungamati, Nepal

Shells of their Former Selves
It is hard to believe people have had to winter here for two seasons already.

Corrugated tin and bags of cement, Bungamati, Nepal

Building Materials
The whole main street is still a construction site.

Bags of cement and sand at a house front, Bungamati, Nepal

Cement and Sand

Woman in a upstairs window, Bungamati, Nepal

Woman in a Window
Even surrounded by cracking walls and damaged, but beautiful carved timberwork, people still have time to smile at the stranger.

Padlock on a weathered door, Bungamati, Nepal

Door Lock

Piled red bricks, Bungamati, Nepal

Brick Pile
Even the making of the bricks that have been delivered here is a labour-intensive local industry.

Newari man and woman bricklaying on an upper story of a Bungamati house, Nepal

Rebuilding Home
I love the details that have gone into these buildings! Although small government grants were promised to families in the town, they were slow to be delivered.

Damaged brick multi-story building, Bungamati, Nepal

Damaged Multi-Story Home

Men playing cards, Bungamati street, Nepal

The Card Game
Still, people are making the best of it – gathering to play cards and socialise.

Man

Hands at Cards

Men playing cards, Bungamati street, Nepal

Winner Takes All
I never figured out quite what they were playing, but they were clearly enjoying themselves.

Shrines in wall niches, Bungamati, Nepal

Wall Shrines
Hindu worship is a cornerstone of everyday life.

Portrait: grandpa and baby, Bungamati street, Nepal

Grandpa and Baby
Everywhere in the streets the life of extended families goes on …;

Woman doing laundry, Bungamati street, Nepal

Doing Laundry
… as do everyday chores!

Portrait of a Newari woman, Bungamati, Nepal

The Laundress

Portrait: a Newari family sitting on their doorstep, Bungamati, Nepal

Generations on the Stoop

Newari man in flip-flops angle grinding pipe in a Bungamati street, Nepal

Angle Grinding in the Street
Workplace Occupational Health and Safety has a whole different meaning here!

Woman in a upstairs window, Bungamati, Nepal

Another Woman in a Another Window

Portrait: Old Newari man with a cigarette, Bungamati, Nepal

Sitting on the Stoop

Corn drying on a balcony rail, Bungamati, Nepal

Drying Corn
The lands around here are fertile, …

Carrots and greens, Bungamati, Nepal

Fresh Vegetables
… so at least there is no shortage of wholesome food!

Decorated hut of brick and corrugated galvanized steel, Bungamati

Quonset Hut and Propane
As charming as these makeshift shelters are, I have difficulty imaging surviving a Nepali winter in one!

Decorated hut of brick and corrugated galvanized steel, Bungamati Nepal

Laundry outside a Quonset Hut
But, people are clearly making the best of a bad situation.

Young Newari man unloading a brick truck, Bungamati, Nepal

Unloading Bricks
Meanwhile, the work goes on …

Young Newari man unloading a brick truck, Bungamati, Nepal

Moving Bricks
… without gloves …

Young Newari man unloading a brick truck, Bungamati, Nepal

Bricklayer
… or proper footwear.

Newari men unloading a brick truck, Bungamati, Nepal

Portrait of Bricklayers

Newari man and woman bricklaying on a roof of a Bungamati house, Nepal

Couple on the Roof
Everywhere I look, work is going on.

Newari men at a worksite, Bungamati, Nepal

Workers at the Brick Piles
At another work site, a lot of people are hard at work.

Portrait: Newari women in headscarves and face masks, Bungamati, Nepal

Women at Work
As much work as there is to do, the women are happy take a break and smile.

Portrait: Newari woman in a headscarf, Bungamati, Nepal

Woman at the Brick Pile

Puppy at a worksite, Bungamati, Nepal

Puppies in the Ruins

Sign-Off-NamasteI can’t help but admire the resilience of these people as they rebuild their homes and lives.

And, I love the smiles.

Photos: 15March2017

A woman in a hat seated amid flowering billy buttons, Top Hut TSR, NSW Australia

A Moment’s Pause
A visitor to the Top Hut Travelling Stock Reserve near Adaminaby, NSW, sits amid the flowering billy buttons (Craspedia globosa) and takes in the scene.

There is something so cheerful and optimistic about native wildflowers blooming in their natural environment.

There is also something hopeful about the metaphorical blank-page of possibilities as we turn the calendar from one year into the next at New Year’s. That is why I’ve chosen to share these pictures of some recovered native grasslands in the Monaro Tablelands

November is the best time for wildflowers on the Monaro, so, along with other members of the Far South Coast Branch of the National Parks Association, I joined a Monaro Native Grasslands tour facilitated by Upper Snowy Landcare. Many of the participants on the trip were also members of Friends of Grasslands (FoG): dedicated and extremely knowledgeable volunteers who help preserve and nurture these pockets of wild, natural space. 

It is wonderful how time slows down on a grassland. I breathed in the surrounding landscape, and sought out the spring flowers blooming there. The more you look, the more you see! 

Enjoy a brief foray among these precious native Australian plants:

Landscape: Trees in a row behind the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Adaminaby Golf Course
It’s hard to see this as a 9 hole golf course, but it is! And some of the participants on the Native Grasslands tour were locals who play here regularly.

Landscape: Trees in a row behind the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Trees on the Horizon
The line of evergreens is testament to years of modern-era land use. Even so, this land was identified as being home to native plants and species and in need of protection.

Flowering billy buttons, Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Billie Buttons – Craspedia Globosa
Back in 1999, money was provided through the Threatened Species Network (TSN) Community Grants Program under the Natural Heritage Trust (NHT) to conserve the habitat of the Monaro golden daisy; we didn’t see any here, but there were plenty of billy buttons in bloom.

Picnic Baskets on the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Picnic Baskets on the Adaminaby Golf Course

Highland golden moths in bloom, Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Highland Golden Moths – Diuris Monticola
Australia is home to the world’s most diverse terrestrial orchids and about 80 percent of these plan are endemic. Many are small and delicate: it was someone with sharp eyes that first spotted these on the golf course.

Women on the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Women in the Field
I love these hills: they roll off into the distance in a patchwork of subtle colours.

A women on the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

In the Billy Buttons

Portrait: a man with a microphone on the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

David Eddy
A local representative from the State Government Local Land Service (LLS) was on hand to talk about the management strategies for the Monaro Grasslands.

View from the Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Paddocks

Gorse bitter-pea in the grass, Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Gorse Bitter-Pea – Daviesia Ulicifolia
The undulating hills provide micro zones that are host to different plant combinations.

Sheep sorrel in the grass, Adaminaby Golf Course, NSW Australia

Sheep Sorrel – Rumex Acetosella
This edible plant, native to Europe and Asia, has made a home for itself in many parts of Australia.

The Big Trout sculpture, Adaminaby NSW Australia

The Big Trout
The group made a brief pit-stop in Adaminaby. I’ve shared pictures of this local landmark before (see: In Search of Gold). The 10-metre-high fibreglass sculpture is a tribute to the area’s popularity as a fishing spot . (iPhone12Pro)

Monaro golden daisy in bloom, Adaminaby NSW Australia

Monaro Golden Daisy
Our next stop was on the verge of an old country road, where the Monaro golden daisy (Rutidosis leiolepis) was in bloom. Considered a species at risk, these are found in scattered patches here on the Monaro plains, and in low sub-alpine sections of Kosciuszko National Park.

Chamomile sunrays in bloom, Adaminaby NSW Australia

Chamomile Sunray
We also found small clumps of delicate-looking chamomile sunray (Rhodanthe anthemoides), another endemic Australian native.

Top Hut Travelling Stock Reserve in bloom, Adaminaby NSW Australia

Top Hut Travelling Stock Reserve
Our last stop was at the colourful Top Hut TSR, where all manner of plants stretched out before us. These reserves are a network of parcels of Crown land that the grazing industry traditionally used to move sheep and cattle around – often following traditional Aboriginal pathways. In NSW, the National Parks Association of NSW (NPA) has worked to protect the biodiversity and cultural heritage inherent in these lands. This plot is managed by the local Friends of Grasslands (FoG) group.

White hoary sunray in bloom, Top Hut TSS NSW Australia

Hoary Sunray
There we found one of my favourite Australian natives: the endangered perennial everlasting daisy known as a hoary sunray (Leucochrysum albicans).

Murnong yam daisy in bloom, Top Hut TSS NSW Australia

Murnong Yam Daisy
Hard to distinguish from dandelion until you look at the leaves, the murnong (Microseris lanceolata) has an edible tuberous root, and was a staple food for the local Aboriginal people until the introduction of sheep rendered it virtually extinct. Although they are cultivated as Bush Tucker, they are hard to find in the wild.

Buttercups in bloom, Top Hut TSS NSW Australia

Common Buttercup – Ranunculus Lappaceus

Portrait: a man with a microphone on the Top Hut TSS, NSW Australia

Local Landholder
A farmer from a neighbouring property talks about how he integrates sustainable land practices in his management practices.

A woman in a hat seated in grass, Top Hut TSS, NSW Australia

Lauren Van Dyke
The co-ordinator of the Upper Snowy Landcare Network watches on.

Rosetted cranesbill in bloom, Top Hut TSS NSW Australia

Rosetted Cranesbill – Geranium Antrorsum

Sunrays and Billy Buttons in bloom, Top Hut TSS NSW Australia

Sunrays and Billy Buttons

Weeping Snow Gums on a hillside, Adaminaby, NSW Australia

Weeping Snow Gums – Eucalyptus Lacrimans

People walking on the Top Hut TSS, NSW Australia

Walking the Land
These landholders are six- or seventh-generation farmers in this region, and had no shortage of things to talk about.

It was such a pleasure being out on the land on this beautiful day. I learned so much about the precious plants thriving on a landscape that I have driven across so often, and  I can’t help but admire the work that these dedicated people are doing to preserve them into the future.

I can only hope they succeed!

Hoary sunrays in bloom, Top Hut TSS NSW Australia. Text: Happy New Year

Pictures: 26November2022

The Sydney Opera House, Sydney Harbour, Australia.

The Sydney Opera House
Even on overcast days, I love the iconic Opera House – with or without an incoming cruise boat in the background.
(22November2012 -Canon DIGITAL IXUS)

As someone born and raised in the colder reaches of the Northern Hemisphere, I spent much of my life dreaming of a White Christmas. I still have difficulty associating the festive season with hot nights and Summer in the City.

But I love the city of Sydney in the Antipodean summer – and some years I manage to catch some of the Christmas decorations. When my children were small, we would journey into the CBD to enjoy the wonderful Christmas displays in the front windows of the upmarket department stores and to wander around their expansive and magical Santa Departments.

When my husband and I returned to the city after many years of living in Thailand, I went in search of these decorations – only to find the city much changed! (See: Searching for Christmas Spirit).

So, most years now, rather than hunting out the decorations on my regular November and December forays downtown, I treat any finds as serendipitous. I have revisited some (very) old photos from years past in a renewed hunt for some Sydney Christmas Spirit.

Do join me!

Aerial shot over Sydney, Australia

Over the City
Flying into Sydney is almost always a joy; the red tile roofs and greenery make for beautiful contrasts.
(24November2013 – iPhone 4S)

Sydney Port Corporation tugboat spouting water, Sydney Harbour, Australia.

Dancing Waters
I love sitting in Circular Quay over dinner or coffee: there is always a lot of activity to watch on the waters of Sydney Harbour.
(22November2012 – Canon DIGITAL IXUS)

Cruise boats and the Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Opera House, Australia

Watching the Big Ships
People line the waterfront of Bennelong Point outside the Opera House to watch the cruise boats make their stately way into the Overseas Passenger Terminal just around the bend.
(22November2012 -Canon DIGITAL IXUS)

Grace Bros. Broadway, Sydney Australia

Grace Bros. Broadway
Not to be confused with the fictional Grace Brothers from British television, Grace Bros was an Australian department store chain founded in 1885. This building on Broadway – completed in 1923 – was the flagship store. The eighth floor was an exhibition space, and before the building was closed in 1992, my children and I would take the train in from the suburbs on school holidays to visit the latest toy and/or Lego expo there.
(22November2012 – iPhone 4S)

Red flame tree flowers with Sydney Tower in the background, Hyde Park Australia

Sydney Tower Wrapped in Flame
Although the surrounding newer highrises compete, this observation and communications tower – variously known as Westfield Tower, Centrepoint Tower, or AMP Tower – is still my CBD touchstone. Here, I’m looking at it through the early summer flowers of a native Illawarra flame tree (Brachychiton acerifolius) in Hyde Park.
(22November2012 – iPhone 4S)

The Archibald Fountain, Hyde Park Sydney, Australia

The Archibald Fountain
Great Britain, the ‘Old Country’ of colonial days, is heavily referenced in the classical architecture and Anglo place names everywhere around the CBD. In the centre of Hyde Park, we have the Archibald Fountain with the Gothic-style St Mary’s Cathedral in the background.
(22November2012 – iPhone 4S)

Sculpture: Water, Fire and Earth in Hyde Park, Sydney Australia.

Water, Fire and Earth
But, Hyde Park also features some more modern depictions of the past: this sandstone sculpture by Gerard Havekes (1925 – 2011) pays tribute to pioneers: a fisherman who is looking to the future and new horizons, a woman protecting the fires of intuition, initiative, and progress, and a farmer who symbolises the efforts that developed the country.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Christmas decoration on an artificial tree, Hyde Park, Sydney Australia

Hyde Park Tree
Every year an artificial tree is erected in the park; I always try to take selfies in the shiny baubles.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

The University of Sydney, Australia

The University of Sydney
Founded in 1850, Sydney University is the oldest university in Australia; we often went past the sandstone buildings on our morning walks during city-stays.
(24November2012 – iPhone 4S)

Sculpture: The Student, University of Sydney, Australia

The Student
Even the ‘modernist’ public artwork around the old University of Sydney campus is established. This sculpture of a student hunched over a book by sculptor and teacher Tom Bass was acquired by in 1953.
(24November2012 – iPhone 4S)

A pseudo-gas lamp and the Sydney Harbour Bridge against a blue sky, Sydney Australia

Bridge in the Gas Lamp
When you are on Circular Quay, it feels as you could touch the Harbour Bridge directly overhead.
(18December2012 – Canon EOS 5D Mark II)

Cruise ship docked on Sydney Harbour, Australia

Cruise Ship
Gleaming ships in front the Museum of the Contemporary Art add to the summer atmosphere around Circular Quay.
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

The Sydney Harbour Bridge against a blue sky, Sydney Australia

Bridge-Climb
High overhead, a group of climbers are strapped in safely.
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

Young women on The Rocks side of Sydney Harbour, Australia

Photography Homework
Like Grecian nymphs in their summer dresses, a couple of young women set up a camera on the foreshore at The Rocks.
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

A newlywed couple have their wedding photos on Hickson Road with the Opera House in the background, Australia.

Wedding Couple
(18December2012 – iPhone 4S)

People upstairs, under the Opera House sails, Sydney Australia

People at the Opera House
(25November2013 – iPhone 4S)

Inflated santas, Darling Harbour Sydney Australia

Ho Ho Ho!
Darling Harbour always has a slightly irreverent take on Christmas!
(06December2014 – iPhone 5)

Overhead stylised christmas tree lights, Sydney street, Australia

Christmas Lights
After dark, the city shines.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Colourful Christmas projections, Sydney street, Australia

Christmas Projections
A colourful Pitt Street corner.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Grahame

Grahame’s Corner
The classical façade of the late 19th century heritage-listed commercial and office building known as Grahame’s Corner makes a great canvas for a 21st century seasonal light show.
(05December2014 – iPhone5)

Text: May the Spirit of the Season be with You.

 

So, it’s a Happy Christmas from the City of Sydney, and a Very Merry Christmas from me.

May the spirit of the season be with you always.

Happy Holidays!

 

 

Grass growing on the Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales

The Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales
There is something serene (and surreal!) about wandering over Roman ruins that are half submerged in grassy fields. During the Middle Ages, this amphitheatre was known as King Arthur’s Round Table, and it has since featured in a number of Arthurian legends.

The expanse of the Roman Empire always astonishes me.

From Hadrian’s Wall and the Antonine Wall in Great Britain, to the southern reaches of what is now Egypt; from the Atlantic Ocean to territories west of the Mediterranean – at its largest, the Empire ruled over 5 million square kilometres (almost 2 million square miles).

But what impresses me even more that the size of their jurisdiction is the legacy that they left behind. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a number of Ancient Roman archaeological sites across Europe and into the Middle East (eg: Roman Ruins) and I’m continually amazed by the engineering prowess that led to some of those impressive structures.

Of course, you don’t maintain a territory of that size without an army.

The Roman legionary were considered the foremost fighting force in the world in their day, with historians praising their effectiveness centuries after their time. As well as being professional heavy infantryman, legionaries were expected to acculturate the conquered population and to serve as a policing force. They also built the large public works projects, such as walls, bridges, and roads – the remnants of which can still be seen across their empire.

Roman Britain was home to three permanent legionary fortresses: the best preserved of these is Isca Augusta or Isca Silurum in what is now Caerleon in South Wales. Isca was founded in 74 or 75 AD and remained the headquarters of the Legion II Augusta until at least 300 AD. It remained relatively undisturbed under the fields and town of Caerleon until full-scale excavations began in 1926. Today, the on-site National Roman Legion Museum displays some of the finds.

My husband and I visited this site many years ago, and marvelled at the immense natatio, or open-air swimming pool, and the only Roman legionary barracks still on view in Europe.

Join us for a short tour of the museum, the baths, and the grounds of the fort itself.

Graphic of the Roman Empire under the Emperor Hadrian, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

The Roman Empire under the Emperor Hadrian

Portrait: Model of a Roman Centurion, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Roman Centurion
Meet Rufinius Primus, a Centurion from the late first century AD. His effigy takes pride of place in the National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales, and his mark is on some of the building stones recovered at the site. His magnificent transverse-crested helmet is one of the signs of his rank.

Model of a Roman Centurion, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Rufinius Primus
Unlike legionary soldiers, Rufinius wears a mail shirt (lorica hamata). Centurions carried a vine-stick (vitis): as a symbol of authority, and to mete out corporal punishment.

Model of a Roman Legionary, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Legionary Soldier
Soldiers in the early Roman Empire wore red or undyed (off-white) woolen tunics under their armour; red was associated with blood and courage.

Detail: Roman legionary plated armour, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Legionary Shoulders
Legionary soldiers usually wore overlapping-plated body armour (lorica segmentata).

A Legionary helmet, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Legionary Helmet
Equipment – especially helmets – was extremely variable, and was often handed down through families. This helmet, with the nose guard, is a style found all across the Empire.

Pottery jug, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Pottery Jug
Exhibits in the museum give a glimpse into everyday life.

Brass handled pot, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Brass Pot

Display of Roman coins, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Roman Coins

Two simple men carved in stone, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Men in Stone
Some of the recovered items have been eroded by time.

Roman lettering on a stone slab, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Roman Lettering
Other stonework is like new.

Roman mosaic floor tiles, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

Mosaic Floor Tiles
The mosaic floors typical of the era feature beautiful motifs. This 3rd century AD example is said to be from the Legion headquarters.

The Roman barracks, Caerleon Wales.

The Barracks
These are the only visible remains of Roman Legionary Barracks in Europe. Each of the barracks at Caerleon housed 80-100 men and featured a veranda, red-tiled roof, and greenish glass windows. Four of the original 60 housing blocks remain.

The Roman ruins and modern housing, Caerleon Wales.

The Neighbours
Imagine having a priceless archaeological ruin in your backyard!

Man walking on the Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales

Exploring Caerleon
The misty rain keeps everything green!

Excavated ruins, Caerleon, Wales

Excavated Ruins
At the original ground level, you get a better sense of how things once were.

Entrance to the Amphitheatre, Caerleon, Wales

Entrance to the Amphitheatre

Wooden carving of a woman serving food, Caerleon, Wales

Serving Woman
A modern depiction of a server from the Roman occupation.

Roman Bath, Caerleon, Wales

Roman Bath
The recovered remains of the Roman baths were fascinating: in use from around 74 AD to 287 AD, the complex contains chambers for hot and cold baths, exercise rooms, and this open-air swimming pool. The changing rooms were warmed by an underfloor heating system and lead pipes were used to transport water.

Roman helmet on display, Roman Bath, Caerleon, Wales

Another Roman Helmet
The enclosed bathhouse has a number of items that were found in the vicinity on display, including grooming implements and even this remarkable helmet.

Leather Roman military sandals, Caerleon, Wales

Roman Sandals
You just can’t go past a good leather Roman military sandal!

It was a fascinating glimpse into a world long-gone.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 19July2012