Water merging into air over a Dead Sea landscape, Jordan.

The Dead Sea
It’s a magnificent landscape: desert light shimmers over the dense salty waters of the Dead Sea in Jordan.

Jordan is one of those places where I’d go back.

I’ve had a lifelong love of deserts, and a fascination with Lawrence of Arabia. So, to walk and camel-ride in Lawrence’s boot-steps in the magically beautiful sculpted desert landscape of Wadi Rum was an absolute dream-come-true (see: Desert Rains and the Seven Pillars of Wisdom; A Morning in Wadi Rum). I also  loved the stories, the colours, and the textures of the breathtakingly beautiful Nabatean cities of Petra and Little Petra (see: Nabatean), and could have used more time in that whole area.

At just over 89,000 square kilometres of semi-arid country, Jordan is relatively small. But, it sits at the crossroads of Asia, Africa, and Europe, and has borne witness to at least 200,000 years of civilisations and migrations. The evidence of this history that still sits on the landscape just is amazing! As well as the Nabateans, the Romans left their mark (see: Ancient Jerash) – as did the early Christians (see: Shobak and Mosaics and Churches). Today’s population of 10 million people is 98% ethnic Arab; although about 84% of people live in the cities, they still cherish their nomadic desert roots. This is evident in all aspects of culture, food, art, and dress.

I only spend a week in the country, but with a small bus and a good guide, we criss-crossed north-to-south and back again, taking in a wide variety of sites, and stopping at some roadstops full of fascinating offerings for tourists.

My last afternoon was spent at the Citadel, an archeological park at the center of downtown Amman which epitomises the long and varied history of the country. Although most of the ruins and structures still visible at the site are from the Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods, evidence of Neolithic and Bronze Age inhabitation has also been found on the hill.

Join me on some Jordanian roads and road stops

Commercial hangers, Queen Alia International Airport, Jordan

On the Tarmac
Even from the airplane window as you land at the Queen Alia International Airport, you get a sense of a modern world blending into a desert landscape. (iPhone6S)

Straight highway lined with light poles, Jordan.

View from the Bus
Jordan has a relatively modern educational system, which probably helps with maintaining decent roads and infrastructure.

Ornate inlaid furniture on display, Midway Castle, Jordan

Ornate Inlaid Furniture – Midway Castle
There some extraordinary things for sale at the various highway rest stops! (iPhone6S)

Bowl of red spice surrounded by souvenirs and gifts, Dead Sea Gift Shop, Jordan.

Spices and Resins
Spices and scents are available everywhere – as are cremes, lotions, clothing, and souvenirs. (iPhone6S)

Portrait: Palestinian man in a red and white keffiyeh, Jordan

Our Guide
On our bus rides, our guide kept us oriented, educated, and entertained …

Straight highway in front of colourful desert mountains, Jordan.

Scenes from the Bus
… as the magnificent desert landscapes flew past. This is around Wadi Rum, where rock mountains and mesas were thrown high above sea level by tectonic shifts, and carved by millenia of fierce winds and blowing sand.

Mountains east of the Dead Sea Highway, Jordan

Valley Gulf
At a roadstop further north, near the top end of Valley Gulf, the sculpted mountains rise in the east over the Dead Sea Highway.

South end of the Dead Sea from a bus window, Jordan

Almost Abstract : Scenes from a Bus
Floating off into a haze of heat and power lines, the south end of the Dead Sea comes into view.

Turquoise Dead Sea water bordered by sandstone cliffs, Jordan

Edge of the Dead Sea
The high mineral content of the Dead Sea makes for rich colours in the early afternoon light.

Lot

Lot’s Wife
On the other side of the road stands Lot’s wife, who, according to the Book of Genesis, was turned into a pillar of salt for looking back at Sodom.

Steps down to the beach, Dead Sea Spa Resort, Jordan

Down to the Beach
Once we are checked into our room for the night, we can walk down to the Dead Sea itself.

Beach umbrellas at the Dead Sea Spa Resort, Jordan

Beach on the Dead Sea
Between climate change and excess use of water up-stream, the Dead Sea is receding dramatically – and the walk across the beach is a lot further than it used to be. Israel is hiding a short distance away, in the heat haze on the horizon.

People floating in the sparkling waters of the Dead Sea, Jordan.

That’s Me – in the Dead Sea!
When in Jordan … you have to cover yourself in black mud, and have a float … It is actually harder than it looks! If you are not careful, you can be flipped over.

Night lights over Amman from the Grand Palace Hotel, Jordan.

Night Lights
By complete contrast, Amman, the capital of Jordan, is vibrant and modern.

People on a rooftop bar at night, the Grand Palace Hotel, Amman Jordan.

The Beautiful People After Dark
With a population of over 4 million, it houses almost 40% of Jordan’s population, and is the fifth-largest city in the Arab world.

Night time view from the Grand Palace Hotel, Amman Jordan.

Blue Amman
The roof of our hotel gives me a good view over the darkening city.

Stone information panels, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Information Panels
The Amman Citadel, in the middle of downtown, has a long history of occupation by many civilizations. Stylish stone information signs as you enter the site outline some of this history. The Greeks called the city Philadelphia; the Rashidun Caliphate took the city from the Byzantines in the 7th century CE and restored its ancient Semitic name of Amman.

In the ruins on the Amman Citadel, Jordan.

In the Ruins
A large part of the Citadel has not been excavated; ruins scatter the ground and the unfinished Roman Temple of Hercules sits at the height.

Ruins of the Temple of Hercules, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Temple of Hercules
According to an inscription, this temple was built some time between 162 and 166 CE. Archaeologists believe it was not finished, and that it suffered later earthquake damage.

Amman

The Roman Theatre
Where you had Romans, you had a theatre! The city has grown around this 6,000-seat, 2nd-century theatre, which sits on a hill opposite the Amman Citadel.

Pillars at the Roman Temple of Hercules, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Pillars at the Roman Temple of Hercules

Gateway of the Umayyad Palace, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Gateway of the Umayyad Palace
The palace here was built between 661 and 750 CE, during the second caliphate after the death of the prophet Muhammad. Much of the palace is in ruins, but the domed entrance, known as the “kiosk” or the “monumental gateway”, has been restored.

Carved walls inside the Umayyad Palace, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Patterns in the Ancient Walls

Amman from inside the ruins of the Umayyad Palace, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

City from the Ruins
Looking out from where the 8th century palace once was, you can see where the new and vibrant city rises.

Gateway of the Umayyad Palace, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Gateway from inside the Umayyad Palace

Pillars at the Roman Temple of Hercules, Amman Citadel, Jordan.

Columns and Walls
The layers of age and human history here are mind boggling.

Man preparing a bread roll for customers, Hashem Restaurant Amman, Jordan

“Fast Food”
One of the joys of travel is taste-testing the local foods.

Mezze plates, Amman Jordan

At the Hashem Restaurant
A Jordanian favourite is Levantine mezze, so it is only appropriate that we enjoy that for our last supper.

Yellow and white taxi, Amman, Jordan

Colourful Cab
One of the things that distinguishes cities from each other is the colour and make of their local taxis.

Queen Alia International Airport, Amman Jordan

Queen Alia International Airport
The airport rolls across the landscape like the waves of sand in the desert. (iPhone6S)

And just like that, the beauty, diversity, and historic richness of this little country in the desert disappears through the airplane window.

I’d love to go back!

Photos: 13-20October2019

Vegetables in the Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Colours in the Market
Even in the very early hours of morning, there is colour and movement everywhere you look in the Goubert Market in Old Pondicherry, India.

Any visitor to these pages knows I love markets.

I love the insight they give into the lives of the locals: What foods do they eat? How do they barter or trade? How do they engage with (or not!) the foreigner in their midst? How do they interact with each other? I love the apparent chaos: the cacophony of colours and smells; the crowded aisles and alleys; the constant motion; the noise …

Of course, it is only chaos to the outsider. When I stand back and watch, is is quite apparent that the locals all know what they are doing and where they should be. I am the one at risk of getting in the way.

I always marvel at how welcoming (and patient) stall holders are with this outsider trying to make pictures in the gloom, or under horrible fluorescent lights; I struggle with my heavy old cameras, trying to frame shots in impossible spaces and stay out of the way of shoppers and porters at the same time.

I’m never completely happy with the results, but I always hope to at least catch some of the essence of the experience.

Early one morning in January, I had the opportunity to spend some time in the historic Goubert Market in Heritage Town, Puducherry. I was staying nearby, in a beautiful colonial building in the heart of the French Quarter of what was, until 2006, known as Pondicherry. We had arrived the evening before from neighbouring Tamil Nadu, after stopping to explore the historic stone monuments at Mahabalipuram (see: Stories in Stone).

Originally called the Grand Bazaar, the market was established in 1826 under the French at the edge of the French Quarter. It was renamed for Édouard Goubert, who – in the early 1960s – was the mayor and first chief minister of Pondicherry. Popularly known as Periya Kadai (பெரிய கடை), which is Tamil for ‘big store’, it is one of the oldest markets in the city. Reputedly busy all day, almost everything you can think of is on offer, but it is especially known for its fresh fish from the Bay of Bengal.

We arrived early, and it was already bustling with activity.

Dark street, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Pondicherry Market
The sun is not yet up when we arrive before 7am at the already-bustling Goubert Market in Old Pondicherry.

Butchers, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Butcher
It is dark – very dark – inside. One report I read suggested that crumbling infrastructure was causing problems for the traders and customers alike (The Hindu). These butchers are working in rather questionable conditions.

Hessian bags of produce, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Onions in the Market
Every space is filled: big bags of fresh produce line the aisles.

Crowded market aisle, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Shopping in the Market
Shoppers jostle with vendors in the narrow laneways.

Baskets of produce, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Splashes of Colour
The saris are as colourful as the fruits and vegetables.

Betel shop, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Betel Shop
I’m always amazed at how everywhere you look in India, you see men reading the newspaper. The betel leaves for sale here are used to wrap paan or gutkha: a mixture of areca nut, herbs, spices, and often tobacco, for chewing.

Fresh silver fish, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Fresh Fish
We are on the Bay of Bengal, so the market features a variety of freshly-caught fish.

Woman in a green sari, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Woman in Green
Historically, it is the men who do the fishing here and the women who take care of the sales.

Two women seated at wooden cutting blocks, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Fish Vendors
Everyone has their posters or shrines to their favourite Gods decorated with fresh flowers.

Woman cutting fish, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Cutting Fish
That knife is serious business!

Woman peeling prawns, Goubert Market, Puducherry, Indi

Peeling Prawns
There is plenty to do, even when there are no immediate customers.

Seated fish vendors, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Women at the Fish Market

Woman selling prawns, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

More Prawns – More Fish

Two women in saris seated in a crowded parking area outside Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Tea Break
Outside the covered market, a couple of women take a break.

Men with a tanker truck outside Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Water Truck?
I have no idea what is going on here, but I loved the look of these vehicles.

Man seated on the ground with hats for sale, Puducherry, India.

Selling Hats, Etc.
In the streets outside the market, more vendors attempt to make sales.

Man pouring coffee from a height, Puducherry, India.

Chai Wallah
Actually, the wallah here is making coffee, not tea, but the process is the same. I love watching how they pour the hot drinks from a height; it is meant to add froth and cool the milky liquid a bit.

Man with a cart laden with oranges, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Selling Oranges
Fresh fruit and vegetables are everywhere in the old streets.

Truck full of watermelon, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Watermelon Truck

Worn buildings, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Textured Buildings
We were meant to be admiring the Franco-Tamil architecture and the UNESCO-endorsed restorations in Vysial Street, but many more of the buildings were in need of a lot of work. I did love the textures and colours, though.

Cauliflower for sale, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Cauliflower for Sale
More fresh vegetables! Notice the QR code on the tree: you can pay by phone!

Parked shiny new scooters, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Candy-Coloured Scooters

Fruit and vegetables store, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Corner Market
I love how the shops all spill onto the road!

Fruit and vegetable store, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

More Colour and Activity

Fish in coriander sauce, Palais de Mahe, Puducherry India

Fish in Coriander Sauce
After seeing all that fresh food on offer, it was only right that later on, our lunch was tasty fresh fish pieces in a fragrant and colourful coriander sauce.

Text: Bon Appétit

Until next time,

Bon appétit!

Pictures: 22January2023

View across False Creek from Fairview, Vancouver BC Canada

False Creek
With its numerous waterways, tall waterfront buildings, and a snow-dusted mountain backdrop, Vancouver is beautiful any time of year. But, cherry blossoms and fresh growth make spring special.

I was so grateful!

Vancouver is a beautiful city. and it has always had a magical place in my childhood, adolescent, and young-adult memories. For much of my young life I either lived nearby, or visited often.

Last year, I went back for the first time in many many years. And, although it was as special as I remembered, it was wet – even by coastal BC standards – and much of the time I was struggling with sodden shoes and an inside-out umbrella (see: A Wet Spring in Vancouver).

This year, however, the weather was beautiful!

I had jet-lag and a cold, but even so, I got out every day and felt happy as I wandered the nearby streets, taking pleasure in the many outdoor spaces on offer.

On a photographic note: I made the decision not to unpack the cameras until I had a car. Looking back on the photos now, I notice two things in particular: 1) because I generally take iPhone shots with the purpose of uploading onto iNstagram in square format (see: Ursula_in_Aus), I ‘see’ things differently with the phone than I do with the cameras. So, the photos often don’t translate terribly well to the 2×3 format that I prefer for the blog. And 2), as good as iPhone photos look on the device, when I’m processing them later in Lightroom, they don’t have the same depth and richness that DSLR camera photos have.

Still, wandering the streets in the sunshine made me smile – and I hope you do too!

Traffic on Cambie Street, Vancouver BC Canada

Cambie Street
Even on a nice spring day, there can be a fair bit of cloud obscuring those mountains to the north. 

Lawn Daisies, Vancouver BC Canada

Lawn Daisies – Bellis Perennis
As a child, I loved trying to make daisy chains with these tiny flowers. Although I have seen them in other parts of the world, they always say Vancouver to me. 

Cherry blossoms, Vancouver BC Canada

Cherry Blossoms
A Vancouver spring means pink blossoms on the 40,000-or-so cherry trees around the city.

Looking north over False Creek, Vancouver BC Canada

View over False Creek
Even with a typical low-hanging cloud, the high rises on the other side of False Creek stand out, and you get a sense of the mountains behind them. 

Cherry blossoms, Vancouver BC Canada

More Cherry Blossoms 

Canada geese and goslings, Vancouver BC Canada

Canada Geese and Goslings
What says spring like baby chicks? But a warning: a Canada goose (Branta canadensis) can be extremely aggressive if you get too close!

Burrard Street Bridge over False Creek, Vancouver BC Canada

Burrard Street Bridge
Built in the 1030s, this Art Deco style bridge is part of my memory landscape.

Fresh red and yellow capsicum, Granville Island Public Market, Vancouver BC Canada

Capsicum (or Red Pepper)
The Granville Island Public Market is a great place for lunch and coffee, for fresh foods, and for interesting art.

New maple leaves and flowers, Vancouver BC Canada

New Maple
Winters in Canada – even on the reasonably temperate West Coast – can be long; …

New conifer buds, Vancouver BC Canada

New Fir (or Spruce?)
… that is one of the reasons spring is such a joy.

View north from Little Mountain, Vancouver BC Canada.

Vancouver Harbour and North Vancouver
I made a point of visiting Little Mountain. Even though it sits at only 125 m (410 ft), you get great views over the rest of the city.

View over Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver BC Canada.

Queen Elizabeth Park
The gardens on Little Mountain are always a treat. I was especially pleased to recognise this location when I was watching the 1986 movie ‘The Boy Who Could Fly’ with my children in Australia.

Metal sculpture covered in locks, Vancouver BC Canada.

Love in the Rain (2016)
These quirky metal people by Bruce Voyce are billed as Vancouver Park Board’s first love lock sculpture.”

Entry to the VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Entry to the VanDusen Gardens
Even though this botanical garden opened in 1975, it was my first visit to the space. The beautiful wood and glass entry point and Visitor Centre was opened in 2011.

A pot of tulips, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Tulips
After a long walk to get there, I enjoyed a coffee, a baguette, and some people-watching before taking on the 22 hectare (55 acre) park.

Orange and Yellow tulips, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Orange and Yellow Tulips
I love spring bulbs – and these are gorgeous.

Fountain, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Fountain
With plenty of water features, the gardens are a delight to explore – especially on such a sunny, blue-sky day.

Sculpture of two stylised people, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Confidence (2012) by Michael Dennis
The gardens feature a number of sculptures; this beautiful work in red cedar was one of my favourites. Trails run off in all directions.

Pacific dogwood blossoms, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Pacific Dogwood
The blossom of western flowering dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) is the floral emblem of British Columbia – and another sign of spring.

Tulips and trees, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Tulips and Trees

Red tulips, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Red Tulips

Wooden owl next to a pathway, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Wooden Owl
Although this charming owl is frequently photographed, I couldn’t learn anything about its provenance.

Gitksan Totem Poles, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Gitksan Totem Poles
The Gitksan Totem Poles, on the other hand, have an explanatory sign next to them. These story poles are by Gitxsan Nation master-carvers. The Mosquito People (1986) on the left, is by Earl and Brian Muldoe and tells the origin story of mosquitoes.

Al of the Gispudwada (1976)
This story pole by Arthur Sterritt describes, in complex detail, the origin of the Black Bear Crest of the Orca Clan.

Waterfall, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Waterfall

Maidenhair and wood anemone, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Shaded Spaces
Maidenhair and wood anemone find a shaded spot beneath the trees, …

Wooden bench on a pathway, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Wooden Bench
… and dappled light plays across a wooden bench.

Green grass aside a small stream, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Stream and Garden

Giant red wooden chairs, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Red Chairs

Pink bleeding heart flowers, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Bleeding Heart – Dicentra Spectabilis
This is one of those plants that lends itself to flights of imagination!

Cars driving north on Lions Gate bridge, Vancouver BC Canada.

Lions Gate Bridge
Unfortunately, I couldn’t stay in the city forever. Heading north over the Lions Gate always signals that I am leaving Vancouver behind.

Text: Keep smiling

Blue skies (mostly), sunshine, and spring flowers in the beautiful city of Vancouver – it doesn’t get much better, and it certainly had me filled with gratitude …

And Smiling!

Photos: 09-12May2023

Scaramella Semibastion, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Scaramella Semibastion
The beautiful colours of the Mediterranean Sea belie the long and painful history of Spinalonga in Crete: once a Venetian fortress and later a leper colony.

I fell in love with Crete.

Greece’s southernmost district, Crete is the country’s largest and most populous island. Nestled between the Aegean and Libyan Seas, it is home to a magnificent coastline and beautiful beaches (eg: Preveli Beach). Populated since time immemorial, there is evidence of human settlement as early as 130,000 years ago. Buildings and ruins date across civilizations (eg: Rethymnon and Lasithi), and even enter into mythology (see: The Minotaur, Mythology, and an Ancient Palace).

What was even greater for me as a solo-traveler staying a bit off the beaten track without a car was that the guided bus trips around the island were a reasonable price! Of course, it is a big island, and I couldn’t see everything, but I did my best to pack in as much as I could.

My third Orange Travel bus tour took me to Spinalonga, a rocky island off the east coast of Crete’s Lasithi Prefecture.

Originally fortified by the Cretans to protect the city of Olous – now sunken ruins under Elounda Bay – the island became deserted in the 7th century following repeated raids across the Mediterranean by Arab pirates.

The Venetians took charge of Crete in 1204. By the mid-15th century, they began to construct salt-pans in the shallow and salty waters around the area of Elounda. The consequential commercial importance of this eastern region, and the rising threat of Turkish invasion, led the Venetians to hire an engineer – Genese Bressani – in 1578 to plan the fortification of Spinalonga.

It is the remains of these magnificent fortifications that give the barren island its distinctive appearance today.

In 1715, the Ottoman Turks captured Spinalonga, thereby taking over the last remaining Venetian fortress in Crete, and remained on the island until 1903 – long after the Christian Cretan insurgents had regained the rest of Crete. From that time until 1957, Spinalonga was used as a leper colony. When the identification of the mycobacteria causing leprosy finally led to effective treatments, people were no longer isolated in the same way, and the only resident remaining on the island was a Greek Orthodox priest. He stayed there until 1962 to observe the Orthodox rituals of commemorating all buried people at regular periods after their death.

Our guide accompanied us through the old village, giving us detailed explanations of the architecture and usage – most of which I have forgotten – before setting us loose. I used my free time to walk around the battlements along the island perimetre, where I admired the contrasts of the rough building stones and the arid, rocky landscape with the jewelled hues of the surrounding sea. 

Join me!

Tourist Boat, town of Plaka behind, Crete Greece.

Tourist Boat – Plaka
Tourist boats for Spinalonga leave from the coastal towns of Agios Nikolaos, Elounda, and Plaka.

Ticket salesman in a booth, Plaka, Crete Greece.

Ticket Salesman
We originally got off our bus in Elounda, only to be told the waters on that side were not good and we would meet our boat in Plaka. The boat was not there when we arrived, giving me time to people-watch, …

Spinalonga across the water and rocks from Plaka, Crete Greece.

Spinalonga on the Horizon
… to explore the Plaka waterfront, and to try to get a feel for that rocky island not far away.

Boat Archangelos on the waters off Plaka, Crete Greece.

Archangelos Coming In
Finally! Our pretty little boat arrives, …

Tourists boarding the boat Archangelos, Plaka, Crete Greece.

Getting on Archangelos
… and our busload boards.

Prow of a tourist boat and Spinalonga, Crete Greece.

Prow toward Spinalonga
Eventually we set off …

The Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga from the water, Crete Greece.

Those Colours!
… and the impressive Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga comes closer.

Plaka as seen from Spinalonga, Crete Greece.

Looking Back
Plaka nestles into the hillside behind us.

Door and windows onto a room full of tourists in Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Doors and Windows
Inside the fortress site, doors, windows, and archways lead off in all directions.

Lines and shadows over an arched doorway, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Lines and Shadows
Parts of the village have been renovated over the years, first by the Ottoman, and later by the leper community.

Stairs around a courtyard, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Stairs and Courtyard

Empty windows framing a roofless room with prickly pear growing, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Prickly Pear
Some drought-hardy plants survive amid the ruins.

Fig growing on a stairway, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Ancient Tree

Tour guide with her arm in a sling, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Eva
Our guide was a bit of a character!

Archway onto a courtyard full of tourists in Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Corridors through Ancient Stones

Wood and stone inside Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Greenery Takes Hold
Contrasts and textures are everywhere.

Roofless rooms with dry grasses growing, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Old Layers
Light and heat work their way into the old roofless rooms.

Wooden beams over a stairway, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Lines and Shadows and Beams

Historic Venetian tiles in a museum, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Historic Venetian Tiles

Rooms and walkways, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Inside the Ruins
The honeycomb of stairways and half-ruined walls seems to be endless.

Man on a ladder, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Mason
The work to keep the ruins upstanding …

Man on a bench, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Workman at Rest
… is relentless and tiring.

Outside the fortress walls, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Outside the Fortress Walls

Ruined rooms and walls, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Old Homes

Wheelbarrow in the ruins of Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Tools of the Trade

Tour guide with her arm in a sling, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Our Guide at Rest

Watch tower, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Watch Tower
Spinalonga is a seaward bastion-type fortress. The fortified walls, which once housed 35 cannons, were so well built that today it is considered one of the best-preserved fortresses in the Mediterranean Sea.

Buildings on the rugged hillside of Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Colourful Rocks
The landscape is indeed rugged, and the buildings here on the east side of the island blend in. At the top of one hill, the round Mezzaluna Barbariga keeps watch; further down, the plain-looking, later-built, Church of St Georgios keeps the faith.

Turquoise waters off the battlements of Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Waters off the Battlement
In the other direction, the fortress walls stand against the Mediterranean.

Church of St Georgios, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Church of St Georgios
As I walk back up the hill, the plain design of the Greek Orthodox church, built around 1661, is more evident. The inside is equally simple.

Leper cemetery on Donato Bastion, Spinalonga, Crete Gree

Leper Cemetery on Donato Bastion
Spinalonga was one of the last active leper colonies in Europe. Near the church, a leper cemetery was constructed on the old Venetian Donato Bastion.

Tourist boats, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Boats Waiting
As I rounded the last bend, I could see tour boats below: I had just enough time for a coffee and a comfort stop …

Travel operator counting passengers onto a boat: Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Counting Passengers
… before being counted back onto the Archangelos for the journey back.

Tour boat heading back to Plaka, Crete Greece

Boat Returning to Plaka
Ours is not the only tour boat heading to the main island.

The Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga from the water, Crete Greece.

Spinalonga from the Water
I appreciate that marvelous Venetian fortress so much more now, after exploring some of its nooks and crannies.

In 1970 the island was declared as a protected archaeological site, and in 2014 it was submitted (so far, without success) for World Heritage Listing.

Text: Stay Well - Ursula

With its magnificent landscape, architecture, and unique history, the island is definitely worthy of attention and protection. 

Here’s hoping none of us have to go through what those with leprosy endured!

 

Photos: 06September2022

A pelican with an open beak, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Australian Pelican (Pelecanus Conspicillatus)
Animals are SO improbable!

“A funny old bird is a pelican.
“His beak can hold more than his belican.
Food for a week
“He can hold in his beak,
“But I don’t know how the helican.”

– Dixon Lanier Merritt

I do love a good zoo!

I especially love zoos where the enclosures are respectful of the animals, their habitats, and of the visitors who come to see them and learn about them. Unlike some of the zoos of the past, modern organisations put a lot of energy into research and animal welfare, as well as education and conservation. They design enclosures that connect people with nature while allowing the animals to be sufficiently stimulated and comfortable with being on public view.

I enjoy visiting zoos in different places: they offer the opportunity for a lovely walk in a semi-natural space. I  always marvel at how different localities have approached the design problems of managing limited room and turning it into suitable climate zones for their animal populations. Balancing aesthetics, safety, animal comfort, and visitor engagement is a constantly evolving field.

Naturally, I usually take my cameras wherever I visit. It amazes me how bizarre and different various animals are, and I’m always on the lookout for their defining colours, textures, and patterns (see: Teeth, Claws, and Colourful Patterns or A Tale of Two Tarongas).

Many years ago, my husband and I spent some time in Adelaide, South Australia, and used the occasion to visit the Adelaide Zoo, ‘one of Adelaide’s most iconic attractions … [and] home to more than 2,500 animals and 250 species. Over the years I’ve returned to the photo-set many times – so many times that Lightroom has had frequent upgrades in the interim – but have never quite pulled it all together.

Until now.

Join me in marvelling at some weird and wonderful natural decorations.

Downtown Adelaide buildings reflected in each other, SA Australia

Almost Abstract : The City Reflected
Patterns seemed to be the theme of this particular Adelaide visit: even on our morning walks, it was the geometric shapes and urban abstracts that caught my eye. (iPhone4S)

Cones and leaves of the Wollemi pine against a white sky, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Prehistoric Trees Overhead
Critically-endangered and legally protected Wollemi pine trees (Wollemia nobilis) are members of the 200-million-year-old Araucariaceae family. Described as a living fossil, prior to their rediscovery in 1994, the trees were only known through fossil records that date about two million years old.

Close up of spotted park on a gum tree, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Nature’s Artwork : Magnificent Bark
All the trees around us have a style of their own. I think this eucalyptus is a spotted gum (Corymbia maculata).

Pale lily in the Lily House, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pale Water Lily – Nymphaea sp
Our first stop was in the Lily House; …

Pale lily in the Lily House, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

In the Lily House
… I’ve always loved delicate-looking but hardy water lilies.

Capybara, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Capybara – Hydrochoerus Hydrochaeris
I first saw greater capybara in their native South America. Just from the posture of this giant rodent, you can get a sense of their enormous size: they grow up to 1.3 metres (4.3 feet) long and can weigh up to 79 kg (174 pounds).

A giant panda, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Panda Dreaming
Adelaide is the only place in the southern hemisphere to house – in specially built enclosures – giant pandas (Ailuropoda melanoleuca).

A giant panda, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Inside – Outside : Panda Reflected
 The Chinese government loaned Wang Wang and Fu Ni to Adelaide Zoo in 2009 as part of a global giant panda breeding program. So far, there has been no luck in producing babies. 

Emu portrait, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Emu – Dromaius Novaehollandiae
Emus are fascinating-looking creatures. Their fluffy feathers feature a unique double plume: emu and their cousins the cassowary are the only birds in the world that have two feathers of the same length originating from the one quill.

Tasmanian devil, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Tasmanian Devil – Sarcophilus Harrisii
It is hard to photograph these feisty little endangered balls of furry energy: they are rarely still for long. Although they only grow to five to 14 kilograms (11 to 30 pounds), with their sharp, shearing teeth and powerful jaws, they are the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial.

Bush Thick Knee, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Bush Thick Knee – Burhinus Grallarius
Also called bush stone-curlews, these distinctive long-legged shorebirds are endemic to Australia.

Pelicans on a pond, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pelican Pond
We arrived at the pelican pond just before feeding time; …

A pelican in profile, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pelican Portrait
… that gave me the chance for a closer look at the textures in that extraordinary beak with its hook, and the bird’s feathers.

Pelicans in an enclosure, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pelicans Feeding
The birds were too fast for me to catch the flying fish thrown by the keepers …

Pelicans in an enclosure, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Those Bills!
… but I did get to marvel at those amazing beaks!

Little wattlebird, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Little Wattlebird – Anthochaera Chrysoptera
Zoos always attract local, non-captive visitors.

Two little penguins, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Little Penguins – Eudyptula Minor
It may well be anthropomorphising, but there is something about the antics of the native-Australian fairy penguins that always makes me smile!

Portrait: a black alpaca, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Those Eyes! Those Lashes!!
Domesticated thousands of years ago for their wonderful wool, the faces of South American alpaca (Lama pacos) have to be part of their appeal.

African wild dog, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

African Wild Dog – Lycaon Pictus
That is the shade of perspex between us and the painted dogs; today they roam wild(er) in the affiliated Monarto Safari Park.

Malayan tapir, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Malayan Tapir- Tapirus Indicus
Endangered in the wild, Asian tapirs are the only tapir species outside of the Americas – and with their three back toes and long proboscis definitely qualify as odd-looking and unique!

Green frog in a man

Frog with a Reptile Keeper
We made a point of arriving at the reptile house in time for the keeper presentation. I didn’t take notes, but I think this is a magnificent tree frog (Ranoidea splendida).

Blue-tongued skink in a man

Blue-Tongued Skink
Every Australian is familiar with the friendly blue tongue lizard (Tiliqua scincoides).

Yellow corn snake in a man

Yellow Corn Snake – Pantherophis Guttatus
These colourful beauties, on the other hand, are dangerous invaders, and are illegal to import or own domestically.

Magpie-lark, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Magpie-Lark – Grallina Cyanoleuca
As we are leaving, we come across another pretty little uncaged native bird.

It was a most enjoyable way of spending a few hours.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 08February2014