Marble gateway to the Temple Of Apollo with the city behind, Naxos Greece

The Temple Of Apollo
The Portara, a giant marble gateway built in 530 BCE, is all that remains of an unfinished temple dedicated to Apollo. Today, it is a popular sunset spot and frames the 13th century Venetian ⁩⁦castle⁩⁦ and the modern tourist city of Chora (Naxos), Greece.

The Greek island of Naxos is a joy to visit. It lived up to its reputation as destination with a fascinating history, fabulous scenery, and wonderfully fresh food.

Naxos‘ long history stretches back across time – and even before recorded time: the young god Zeus was reputed to have been raised here – and one story says that Ariadne, the Minoan princess who helped Theseus escape the labyrinth on Crete (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace), was abandoned here.

Even the more prosaic history dates almost 200,000 years in the form of early Neanderthal tools found on the island. The Bronze age Cycladic civilisation (3100–c. 1000 BCE) is evidenced to have thrived here. Later, around 500 BCE, Naxos was considered the most prosperous of the Greek islands. After its rule under the Byzantine Empire, it was regularly raided by the Saracens who left their artistic influences behind in 10th century frescoes. Like much of this area, Naxos was under the influence of the Venetians from the early 13th century, and a fortified castle and sections of walls from those times exist to this day. The Ottomans ruled from 1566 until the revolution of 1821; the island became a formal part of the Greek State in 1835.

The largest of the Cycladic islands, Naxos has ability to be self sufficient. It is the most fertile of the islands, and unlike the others, has a good supply of fresh water thanks to Mount Zeus (1004 metres or 3294 feet) acting as a raincloud-trap. Its rich and varied agriculture has led to a number of niche food products – some of which we tried: a delicious dinner of regional specialties on the first evening; an explanation and sampling of rich and flavoursome olive oils; a tasting of kitron, the unique local liqueur made from citron (Citrus Medica) leaves; and a lunch we prepared ourselves from organically grown produce (see: From the Farm to the Table).

Truly, the whole visit was a treat. Do come along:

Silhouetted people exiting a ferry onto Naxos, Greece

Unloading into Naxos
We enjoyed a short morning crossing on the Blue Star Ferry from Paros (see: An Evening on Paros) to Naxos. (iPhone12Pro)

Golden light over the arched entry to the Galaxy Hotel, Naxos Greece.

Golden Hour
Like every other place I stayed in Greece, the Galaxy Hotel on Saint George Beach in Naxos was a delight. (iPhone12Pro)

Greek Orthodox church, Naxos Greece

Greek Orthodox Church
In the evening, we took a stroll through the town of Naxos – also called Chora. Naturally, the local square features a typical blue and white church. (iPhone12Pro)

Red sky behind sailboats on Naxos Harbour, Greece

Evening on Naxos Harbour
The sun is catching the clouds over the water as we walk around the harbour …

View of Naxos from the Temple of Apollo, Greece

Naxos from the Temple of Apollo
… … and across the narrow causeway to the islet of Palatia – the site of an unfinished Ancient Greek temple. (iPhone12Pro) 

Marble gateway to the Temple Of Apollo in evening light, Naxos Greece

Dwarfed by the Gateway
The visitors to the site are dwarfed by the massive scale of the Portara. This giant marble doorway is the only remaining part of the unfinished Temple of Apollo. Built in 530 BCE, it stands around 6 metres (20 feet) high and 3.5 metres (11 feet) wide; each of the carved pillars weighs about 18 tonnes.

Woman posing in an Aegean sunset, Naxos Greece

Sunset over the Aegean
According to one myth, this is the islet where Theseus abandoned Ariadne, the Minoan princess, after he killed the Minotaur on Crete (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace). Today, Palatia is a popular sunset spot. (iPhone12Pro)

Marble gateway to the Temple Of Apollo in evening light, Naxos Greece

Sundown on the Temple
The sun drops into the sea, and we head back to the main island for the night. (iPhone12Pro)

Old olive press and other tools, Eggares Olive Oil Museum, Naxos Greece.

Old Olive Press
The next morning we drove to a nearby farming village and visited the small Eggares Olive Oil Museum.

Portrait: young Greek man, Eggares Olive Oil Museum, Naxos.

Explaining the Press
There, we were given an explanation of traditional extraction methods, and better yet: plenty of different types of olive oil to sample.

View down to the coast from the hills of Naxos, Greece.

View from the Bus
After our cooking class and lunch in Galini Village (see: From the Farm to the Table), we drove south towards Halki (Chalkio or Chalki) in the centre of the island. (iPhone12Pro)

Inside the museum at Vallindras Kitron Distillery, Halki Naxos Greece.

The Historic Vallindras Kitron Distillery
Halki was once the capital and main trade centre of Naxos.

Inside the museum at Vallindras Kitron Distillery, Halki Naxos Greece.

Old Equipment
Our first stop there was at the historic Vallindras Kitron Distillery

Portrait: Blond woman in a mask, Vallindras Kitron Distillery, Halki Naxos Greece.

Hostess
… where we are told the history of the distillery, and offered a tasting of kitron, the unique citrus liqueur made from the leaves of the local citron tree.

Tower, Saint George Diasoritis, Halki Naxos Greece.

Church Tower
Halki is home to over 30 Byzantine churches. We took a short walk to one of them: the 11th century Church of Saint George Diasoritis.

Church of Saint George Diasoritis, Halki Naxos Greece.

Church of Saint George Diasoritis
This pretty little church was build to the cross-in-square or crossed-dome plan that was the predominant architectural style of its day. Basically, an internal structure shaped like a cross is topped with a dome.

Church of Saint George Diasoritis, Halki Naxos Greece.

The Diasoritis Church
The inside of the church is decorated with stone mouldings and priceless old frescos.

Old olive tree outside the Church of Saint George Diasoritis, Halki Naxos Greece.

Old Olive Tree
This region – Tragea – is the centre of olive cultivation on the island. The church sits in a grove of very old trees.

Narrow laneway, Halki Naxos Greece

Halki Lane
It is a short walk from the church back to town, following narrow lanes of houses … 

Walking street, Halki Naxos Greece

Halki Street
… into cobbled streets full of shops and restaurants.

A display of local herbs, Halki Naxos Greece

Herbs
It is hot, and the air is fragrant.

The three bells, the Church of Panagia Protothrone, Halki Naxos Greece

“Ring the Bells”
It was the ringing of the bells that drew me to the Church of Panagia Protothrone. This small whitewashed church is thought to have been built during the first half of the 9th century. (iPhone12Pro)

People at courtyard tables in afternoon light, Halki Naxos Greece.

Halki Courtyard
You are never far from food and drink – providing the taverna or coffee shops aren’t observing the 2-5pm messimeri, or quiet time.

People walking in a Halki Street under a bright sun, Naxos Greece.

Sun over a Halki Street
The afternoon sun is still high and bouncing off the time-worn whitewashed walls as we leave the charming village behind and return to our bus.

So far, I was enchanted by this beautiful island – and I still had another day to explore its offerings.

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 21-22September2022

 

View from the Tedli Saddle, Morocco

On the Path
This was one of the few flat sections on the 12 kilometer (7 mile) hike from the Kasbah in Imlil to a lodge in the tiny village of Aït Aïssa. There is nothing easy about hiking in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. But, the views are worth it!

Any visitor to these pages knows I love hiking.

But, if the truth be told, I don’t always love it while I’m doing it!

I discovered very quickly that there is nothing easy about hiking in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. The ground is steep, covered in rubble, strewn in rubbish, and dotted with mule and donkey droppings. Even after the ‘moderate’ hike around the Imlil Valley (see: Walking Around Imlil Valley) the day before, I had been exhausted.

My guide – a guide is a necessity in these mountains – my guide had assured me I’d be fine on our second trek: a roughly (and rough!) 12 kilometer- (7 mile-) journey from the Kasbah where I was staying in Imlil to a lodge in tiny village of Aït Aïssa. But, Alltrails lists a similar route (see: Imlil – Tizi Oussem) as ‘challenging’. Even though they are talking about a full round-trip, and I was only going half way on a slightly longer route, I knew I’d struggle with the uphills.

And it’s almost all uphill!

I got off to a very slow start, cursing and grumbling constantly under my breath with every painful footfall; my guide was well ahead of me most of the way, and my mule was long gone. I stopped regularly: to catch my breath, to have some water, to take pictures, and to adjust my poor feet – which, in spite of wonderful boots, were cramping up.

So, I was not a happy trekker.

But the views were magnificent – and taking pictures every five minutes made a good excuse to let my blood pressure normalise.

When I arrived at my designated lunch stop, I was hot, tired, footsore – and about an hour late. I can’t really blame it on the altitude: my starting point in Imlil sits around 1,800 metres (5,900 ft) above sea level. According to my walking app, we gained 848 metres (2782 feet) across the whole trek, and lost almost the same!

Lunch – when I finally got it – was restorative: my muleteer had prepared the most wonderful Moroccan salad with finely diced vegetables, sliced cheese and tinned tuna. Naturally, there were olives. Plus, a hot dish of beans – and more importantly, coffee.

The second half of the walk was easier, and even included some downhill sections to test my thighs and knees. I dragged myself into the Azzaden Trekking Lodge only half an hour behind the ‘average’ time. But, I was exhausted, and wondering how I would ever get myself up the stairs for dinner!

I’ve done all the hard work: come along and enjoy the scenery:

Mount Toubkal in morning light from Kasbah du Toubkal, Imlil Morocco.

Morning in The Kasbah
The sun has reached North Africa’s highest peak, the mighty Toubkal (4167 m – 13671 ft) in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. Our garden, below, still sits in shadows as I make my way to the dining room for my pre-trek breakfast. (iPhone15Pro)

Back Down to Imlil Valley

Back Down to Imlil Valley
It feels as if I’m getting nowhere – just one foot after the other, slowly. But, just half an hour after starting, the valley is already stretching out behind us.

Mountain road up the Tedli Saddle, Morocco

Mule and Handler
The occasional narrow road winds between villages as we cut steeply up the slope on walking trails and goat tracks.

Mule with a burden, Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Pack Mule

View over mountains from the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

The Rocky Path
The narrow path leads ever higher, …

Mature pine cones and needles, Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Pine Cones
… into pine forests. Aleppo (Pinus halepensis Mill.) and Brutia (Pinus brutia) pines are both common here. I think this is the latter.

Small trees in a rocky landscape, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Colourful Hills
The surrounding landscape is dramatic and subtly beautiful at the same time.

Small trees in a rocky landscape, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Nature’s Artworks : Patterns in Stone

Mud brick animal pens, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Animal Pen
Shepherds here follow a pattern of transhumance (seasonal migration) and often pen the animals at night for safety.

View over Imlil Valley from the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

The Valley Behind
We have entered Toubkal National Park. The valley we started out in has receded into the distance and is about to disappear completely as we round the shoulder of the mountain. It is hot: the sun is high and there is not a cloud in sight.

Tuft of yellow grass in rough rocks, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

An Arid Environment
This area gets snow and ice in winter, so it’s hard to know how much of the loose scree underfoot is ‘normal’ and how much is earthquake damage from the year before.

Old man on a mule, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Muleteer

View from the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

In the Middle
In the saddle between the mountains, we finally get a break for lunch.

View from the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Rocks, Rocks, and More Rocks

Winding path, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

The Path
The path stretches out forever and I could be alone on the mountain. In actuality, my guide is somewhere in front, out of sight, and my muleteer is behind, still packing up after our lunch stop.

View into the distance from the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

To Forever …
The colours are amazing, stretching out to the layered horizon.

Goat in afternoon sun, Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Goat

Spanish juniper, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Spanish Juniper – Juniperus Thurifera
We are in the lower reaches of what is called the Mediterranean High Atlas Juniper Steppe. While Spanish juniper – which is native to Morocco – can grow to 20 metres (66 feet) in height, in these rocky, windswept regions they are low to the ground and twisted by the elements.

Broken juniper trunk, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Natures Artworks : Tortured and Twisted
The juniper trees make wonderful sculptural shapes.

View over the Azzaden Valley from the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Tizi Oussem Village
Villages cling to both sides of the Azzaden Valley – still a long way in the distance.

Rocks on the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Boulder on the Hillside

Terraces, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Terraced Fields

Terraces, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

More Terraces
Farming here is labour intensive!

Apple tree leaves overhead, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Under the Apples
This is apple country – and the path takes us downhill and into an orchard.

Rough mud brick compound, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

Mud Brick Compound

A man and his laden mule, the Tedli Saddle trek, Morocco

My Muleteer
Given how slow I had been before lunch, my muleteer expressed surprise when he finally caught up with us in the afternoon.

Broken buildings, the Azzaden Valley, Morocco

Into a VIllage
This area was hard-hit by the earthquake in September 2023. Looking at the the mud-brick construction, it is easy to understand the ruinous effects of the shallow magnitude-6.8 quake.

Old man walking on a road, Azzaden Valley, Morocco

Old Man Walking
We are back in civilization – where there is a narrow paved road, and people going about their lives.

People walking on a road, Azzaden Valley, Morocco

On the Road
My guide assures me we are close … but he has been saying that for a while!

Mud-brick buildings, Azzaden Valley, Morocco

Buildings on the Edge
It is hard to tell which buildings are still in use.

Young boys with makeshift toys, Aït Aïssa, Morocco

Boys at Play
This blew my mind! When was the last time you saw a child using a cardboard fruit crate as a wagon?

Young boy with an inner tube toy, Aït Aïssa, Morocco

Running the Hoop

Azzaden Trekking Lodge on a hillside, Aït Aïssa, Morocco

Azzaden Trekking Lodge
Finally! My destination. Naturally, it is up a hill!!

I limped in, bone-weary and mildly sunburnt.

Text: Happy Walking!But, my room included an ensuite with a spa bath!

After a long soak, and a delicious tagine dinner, the hard work was forgotten, and I had nothing but good to say about the day.

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Pictures: 10October2024

Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Pont Valentré Valentré Bridge
What could be more French? A picturesque fortified stone-arch bridge seems to rise out of the grapes growing along the banks of the Lot River in Cahors. Part of the UNESCO-listed pilgrim path to Santiago de Compostela, this medieval bridge has been in use since 1350.

I always laugh when people ask me if I have walked “The Camino”.

Exactly which caminino (“way”) do they mean?

Most people are referring to the Camino de Santiago de Compostela – the Way of St. James – a vast network of pilgrims’ paths leading to the shrine of the apostle James in the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain.

Santiago de Compostela was known to Christians since the early in the 9th century, when presumed relics of Saint James the Great were discovered there. It then became a major Christian pilgrimage destination. In 1492, Pope Alexander VI officially declared the Camino de Santiago to be one of the “three great pilgrimages of Christendom”. In 1998, the French Way and the Northern Routes in Spain – and some of the important historic monuments along those paths – were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for their historical significance to Christianity.

I have been on sections of the French and Spanish parts of this “Northern Way” before (eg: Toulouse and España Verdi). It has always been serendipitous: I certainly haven’t ever set out to walk the countless miles that make up the full Camino network!

On a rainy autumn visit to the medieval town of Cahors, in the Occitan Region of Southern France, I was delighted to discover myself once again “On the Way”.

One of the UNESCO-listed structures on the Northern Way is the magnificent Pont Valentré, a 14th-century bridge that crosses the Lot River and leads walkers south to Toulouse and onward to the Spanish pilgrim paths.

I settled for walks along the river banks and across this impressive, fortified stone-arch bridge.

Bring an umbrella and come along!

Wet green walkway along the Lot River, Cahors France

Pathway along the Lot River
It was a rainy afternoon – but it was still a charming walk along the Lot River. There, an old friend introduced me to some of the delights of Cahors, in the south of France. (iPhone15Pro)

Our Lady of St Georges Church, Cahors France

Église Notre Dame de Saint Georges – Our Lady of St Georges
Here, where a natural spring rose, there was once a chapel. The current cut-stone and slate building became a parish church in 1795.

La Maison De L

The Weir
We watch the tourist boats on the Lot River heading towards the locks.

Pont Valentré, Cahors France

The Fortified Valentré Bridge
This magnificent bridge has six large Gothic arches, spanning 172 meters (564 ft) across the river.

Pathway at the foot of the the Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Walkway under the Pont Valentré
Up close, the rustic bridge is quite beautiful – and is clearly a remarkable feat of engineering for its time.

Pedestrians on the Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Foot Bridge
Today, this well-preserved historic monument is only open to foot traffic.

Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Along the Lot River
The skies were full of rain when I approached the bridge the next morning.

Close-up: Raindrops on American pokeweed, Cahors France

American Pokeweed – Phytolacca Americana

Building at the Fontaine des Chartreux, Cahors France

Fontaine des Chartreux
Across the river, the rough stones of the pumphouse building at the Chartreux fountain stand out against the steep mountainside.

Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Valentré Bridge
It is such an elegant building! Considered to be the best preserved medieval bridge in France, the structure remained largely unchanged until 1870, when it was fully renovated by architect Paul Gout. In the style that was popular in the 19th century, he exaggerated the military characteristics somewhat.

A golden shell marking the Way of St. James, Pont Valentré, Cahors France

The Golden Shell
At the base of the bridge, I find a shell. The scalloped shell is an iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago – the Way of St. James: it is a metaphor for the many different routes pilgrims follow to arrive at their destination. Medieval pilgrims often wore shells on their cloaks or hats during their walks.

River Lot through an arch, Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Under Pont Valentré
Under the bridge, the vegetation is green and the waters are calm.

Raindrops on Atlantic ivy, Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Atlantic Ivy – Hedera Hibernica
The intermittent rains collects on the bridge approaches.

View of the Cahors riverfront, Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Along the River
Once on the bridge, it is worth looking back at the curve of Cahors.

Black stairs to a Pont Valentré tower, Cahors France

Stairs to the Tower
How many feet have trodden these stairs over the centuries?

Side wall, Pont Valentré, Cahors France

A Blackened Wall
The patina of time is everywhere.

The Lot River from the Pont Valentré, Cahors France

From Pont Valentré
The waters above the weir are glassy-calm.

A tower of the Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Through the Arch

Through a window of la Maison de l

La Maison de l’Eau – The Pump House
Built in 1853, the water-pumping station that supplied all of Cahors still has its original machinery – but it now operates as a museum and exhibition space. It was closed when I was there, so I contented myself with looking through the windows and back to the bridge.

Pont Valentré from Quai Albert Cappus, Cahors France

Pont Valentré from Quai Albert Cappus

La Fontaine des Chartreux, Cahors France

La Fontaine des Chartreux – the Chartreux Spring
Roman coins dating to the 1st century BCE attest to the significance that the Romans themselves attributed to these waters. Before that, the Cadurci – one of the last Celtic tribes to resist the Roman invasion into southern France – worshipped Divona, the Goddess of waters, here.

Bridge, la Fontaine des Chartreux, Cahors France

Old Stones at the Chartreux Spring

Maidenhair fern in the rocks, la Fontaine des Chartreux, Cahors France

Maidenhair Fern
New growth finds a way in old stones.

Le Pont de Chemin de Fer de Cahors, France

Le Pont de Chemin de Fer de Cahors
A little further down the Lot River, the railway bridge crosses.

Pont Valentré from Avenue Mermoz Collinot, Cahors France

Pont Valentré from Avenue Mermoz Collinot
On my way back, I walk past the entry to the bridge to have a look at the weir on the other side; …

Apartment units on the Lot River, Cahors France

French Housing on the Waterfront
… the housing overlooking the river had me daydreaming.

Ah! La France! This was only one bridge in Cahors, and I had the rest of the town to explore …

Until then,

Bon Voyage!

Photos: 25-26September2024

Portrait: Man painting stage makeup on his face, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Preparing to be “Pacha”
It takes a long time to get into character for a traditional Kathakali performance. At the Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala, much of the preparation takes place on stage, so visitors can watch some of the complex process.

It was hot. And dark. And chaotically noisy.

And, I loved every minute of it!

To a non-Indian, a Kathakali dance performance can best be described as a Punch and Judy show on steroids.

One of India’s many forms of regional classical dance, Kathakali is unique to Kerala on India’s southwestern Malabar Coast. After spending a magically quiet time on the Kerala Backwaters with a small group, experiencing the evening Kathakali performance in Fort Kochi was a complete contrast!

The name comes from the Malayalam words katha (കഥ), meaning a story, conversation, or traditional tale, and kaḷi (കളി) meaning a performance or play. As with other Indian dance forms, the story-telling dance-drama involves complex stylised movements and hand gestures, as well as intricate eye- and facial-expressions, all of which take years to master.

Kathakali performances developed out of temple and folk arts, and date back to early Hindu texts. With traditional themes from folk stories, religious legends, and the Hindu epics, the narratives all centre around the eternal fight between good and evil.

Traditionally, the shows started at dusk and continued through until dawn, or even ran over several nights, starting at dusk each day. Modern productions are shorter: the one I attended at the Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala, was a one-hour introductory performance, aimed at visitors. Before the actual show – from about 5pm – the artists applied their own and each other’s makeup on stage, so you could watch some of the lengthy and exacting process involved in getting ready. Then, a narrator/host had one of the performers demonstrate the eye, face, hand and body movements intended to convey specific meanings – all to a cacophony of cymbals and drums.

On this particular night, the performance itself was “Kiratham”: a popular piece written by Irattakkulangara Rama Warrier, who is believed to have lived in the first half of the 18th century. Broadly, it involves a fight between Arjunan (Arjuna), a prince and expert archer, and the Lord Shiva, one of the principal Gods of the Universe. Other characters include Parvathi, Shiva’s consort/wife; and King Duryodhana and his emissary Mookasura, who has taken the form of a wild boar. Shiva disguises himself as a forest-dwelling hunter, the boar is killed, fights ensue, arrows turn into flowers, and a bow is destroyed. It is all very noisy and confusing, but in the end, everyone is forgiven and lives happily …

So, never mind the story – come meet the performers:

View over the stage of the Great K.V Kathakali Center, Fort Kochi India, where artists are getting into makeup.

The Theatre
Seating in the two-story Great K.V Kathakali Center theatre is assigned, but I took the opportunity to wander around before the actual performance.

View over the stage of the Great K.V Kathakali Center, Fort Kochi India, where artists are getting into makeup.

Concentration
On the stage, the performers – traditionally all males – get into their stylised makeup.

Portrait: Man painting stage makeup on his face, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Green Paint
Pacha (green) characters are usually pious, gentle, and noble. This face will eventually become Parvathi, Shiva’s consort.

Hands applying a Chutti to Arjunan, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Paste and Paint
The Chutti worn by some characters is a white raised structure around the jawline to enhance facial contours and reflect low lighting. They were originally made from rice powder paste, but are now built from paper.

Yellow Paint and Black Eyeliner
The makeup goes on one layer at a time.

Face paint accessories, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Accoutrements
Some places now rely on acrylic paints, while traditional makeup uses coconut oil as a base, with powdered stones to make the yellow, green, and reds; lime and rice flour for the white; and gingelly oil to make the black.

Hands applying a Chutti to Arjunan, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Perfecting Arjunan’s Chutti

Hands applying white paint to Shiva, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Painting White over the Black
Although black is often used to represent evil and wickedness, in this case the character is Shiva, in his forest-dweller disguise.

White dusted flowers stamped on the floor, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Sacred Floor Decorations
Our host/narrator stamps rice flour or chalk in front of the stage. In South India, you see new patterns on people’s doorsteps every morning: they bring prosperity and protect the home.

Portrait: Man painting stage makeup on his face, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Pretty in Green

Man in yellow paint demonstrating eye movements, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Demonstrating Eye Movements
The facial expressions and eye movements are quite dramatic – I got dizzy watching this man point his eyes in all directions!

Man in yellow paint demonstrating foot movements, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Demonstrating Postures
Every movement is accompanied by tambour drums and clanging cymbals.

Arjunan with his bow and arrow, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Arjunan the Archer
The actual play starts with Arjunan, a great archer, who apparently suffers from excessive ego.

Arjunan on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Arjunan
Dancers wear metal tips on the fingers of their left hands to make the hand gestures more visible.

Arjunan on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Performance
Arjunan climbs onto a box – perhaps to demonstrate his pride.

Shiva and Parvathi on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Shiva and Parvathi
Parvathi, looking very mischievous, persuades Shiva to act against Arjunan. 

Shiva and Parvathi on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

The Disguise
To catch Arjunan, Shiva and Parvathi disguise themselves as forest dwellers.

Shiva and Parvathi on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Forest Dwellers

Shiva, Parvathi and Arjunan on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Shiva, Parvathi and Arjunan
Once they meet Arjunan, a disguised boar is killed and Arjunan fights with Shiva, not knowing who he is.

Parvathi on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Parvathi
It all gets very confusing: Parvathi turns arrows into flowers and persuades Shiva to forgive Arjunan.

Actors on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Conference
In the end, all is forgiven …

Arjunan on stage, Great K V Kathakali Center in Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Repentant
… and Arjunan is granted a magic arrow, to be used for Good.

Truly, I was lost most of the time! Even with the narration, much of what I was seeing made no sense.

But the colour and costuming alone made it worthwhile.

Although I was happy to get back out to the relative quiet of an Indian street, I booked myself a seat at another performance another evening.

Text: Keep smilingUntil then, 

Keep Smiling!

Pictures: 30January2023

Portrait: Leesa Gentz singing, Cascades, Thredbo Australia

The Blues in Pink
The Thredbo Blues Festival in Kosciuszko National Park, Australia, always features some of my favourite artists, like Leesa Gentz – who we see here belting out an original from Hussy Hicks.

Fresh air, mountain walks, and music – it doesn’t get much better than January in Thredbo!

This year marked the 30th iteration of the Thredbo Blues Festival: three days of quality music in Thredbo Village: Australia’s highest alpine resort (albeit not very high!), known for its skiing in winter and hiking and mountain biking in summer.

Although I haven’t made it to all 30 festivals (by a long shot!), I have attended a few (see: Thredbo Blues), and always really look forward to attending. This year, I was lucky enough to have a couple of friends join me, and we enjoyed the mountain as much as the music. With 23 bands and multiple venues to choose from, we got plenty of exercise negotiating the extensive site.

Photographically, this festival is always a challenge: cramped spaces make for difficult angles and the lighting shoots off in all the wrong directions! One minute I’m in bright sunlight and the next minute I’m in a darkened bar. For me, that is part of the fun: trying to come up with new perspectives on often-difficult subjects.

Let me know what you think!

Owen Campbell Trio, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Owen Campbell Trio
The festival always kicks off on the Friday afternoon with an open-air performance in the Village Square.

Owen Campbell, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Owen Campbell
It might still be summer, but the weather can be cold here in the mountains.
I first saw Owen Campbell here – many, many years ago.

Portrait of a guitarist, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Guitarist

Darren Jack in the Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Darren Jack
Indoors, the window shades against the sun make it feel like late night …

Portrait: Darren Jack in the Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

In the Schuss Bar
… as Darren Jack pounds out his powerhouse guitar and vocals.

Hussy Hicks, Cascades Restaurant, Thredbo Australia

Hussy Hicks
We have a dinner-show in the Cascades Restaurant.

Julz Parker on guitar, Cascades Restaurant, Thredbo Australia

Julz Parker
I make sure to catch Hussy Hicks any time I can!

Portrait: Leesa Gentz on percussion, Cascades, Thredbo Australia

Leesa Gentz

Bondi Cigars on the Kosciuszko Room Stage, Thredbo Australia

The Bondi Cigars in the Kosciuszko Room
As far as I could tell, it was an all-Australian line up this year, with many of the performers doubling up to help each other out.

Portrait: James Southwell, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Australia

James Southwell
Shane Pacey, the usual frontman for the Bondi Cigars, is struggling with a double hip replacement; James Southwell who also performed as a solo act, stepped in.

Portrait: Leanne Paris on keyboard, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

Leanne Paris
Downstairs in the Keller Bar

Portrait: Mal Eastick on guitar, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

Mal Eastick
… a full band has the crowd on their feet.

Sheet music on a stand, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

Music
The music continued well into the night – but we had to go home to bed for the early start the next day.

Foreday Riders, Alpine Bar, Thredbo Australia

Foreday Riders
We were back bright and early Saturday. Brothers Jeff King (guitar) and Ron King (harmonica/vocals) formed this band in 1967. I first saw them at the Basement in Sydney back in the 1980s.

Robert Susz on harmonica, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Robert Susz
I also remember the Mighty Reapers from the 1980s. On Saturday morning, they were playing in the Thredbo Village Square.

People on a foggy chairlift, top of the Kosciuszko Express, Thredbo Australia

On the Chairlift
We had a lunch-date in Australia’s highest restaurant; unfortunately, we rode into cloud at the top of the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift and so didn’t get much of a view on the way up the mountain!

Rory Ellis on guitar, Eaglesnest, Thredbo Australia

Rory Ellis
This is another of my favourite performers, and I was happy to introduce his growling-deep vocals and wonderful story-telling to my friends.

Top of the Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

Rocky Trail Down the Ramshead
Although I could have taken the chair back down the mountain, I always opt to walk the four kilometre (2.5 mile) track.

Top of the Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

Into the Woods
Fortunately, the weather cleared while we were enjoying our lunch performance.

Colourful snow gum trunk, Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

The Colours of the Snow Gum
I’m quite sure this trail gets steeper and rougher every year!

Silver gum trees, Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

Ghost Gums

Grass trigger plant in bloom, Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

Grass Trigger Plant – Stylidium Graminifolium
Many of the plants here are endemic to Australia.

Blue flax lily grass, Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

Blue Flax Lily Grass – Dianella Tasmanica

Silver snow daisy amongst bushes, Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

The Colours of the Bush
The silver snow daisies (Celmisia tomentella) finished early this year; I was lucky to find one late-bloomer.

Butterfly of a brown caterpillar, Merritts Nature Track, Thredbo Australia

Brown Caterpillar – Heteronympha Solandri

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick in the Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Genevieve Chadwick
Back in the Schuss Bar, Julz Parker is helping Genevieve Chadwick on guitar.

Alan Britton on bass, Cascades, Thredbo Australia

Bass Player in Blue
We headed back to the Cascades Restaurant for another dinner performance; this time it was the Bondi Cigars, with Alan Britton on bass and Frank Corby on drums.

Portrait: Roshani, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Roshani
Rhythm, soul, and folk blues performer Roshani opened Sunday with a wonderful rendition of Amazing Grace.

Portrait: Julz Parker on guitar, Merritts, Thredbo Australia

Julz Parker
We took the gondola up to Merritts for some blues in the sunshine with Hussy Hicks.

Portrait: Minnie Marks on guitar, Merritts, Thredbo Australia

Hussy Hicks
Minnie Marks swaped out her drum kit for a turn on lead guitar.

Bek Jensen Duo in the Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Bek Jensen Duo
How many times have I walked up and down those (and other) stairs this weekend?

Frank Sultana Blues Band, Alpine Bar, Thredbo Australia

Frank Sultana Blues Band
These Delta-inspired tunes were a treat!

Frank Sultana Blues Band, Alpine Bar, Thredbo Australia

Drum Solo
Adrian Herbert rounded out Frank Sultana’s set.

The Foreday Riders, the Lounge Bar, Thredbo Australia

Old Standards
In the Lounge Bar, the King brothers take us through the blues classics.

Portrait: Ron King on harmonica, Lounge Bar, Thredbo Australia

Ron King on Harmonica

Portrait: Steve Edmonds singing, Lounge Bar, Thredbo Australia

Steve Edmonds
Also fronting his own band during the festival, Steve filled in for Shane Pacey in the Foreday lineup.

Portrait: Nathan Cavaleri singing, Lounge Bar, Thredbo Australia

Nathan Cavaleri
This was one act I had to catch before heading home: I last saw Nathan as a young teen, on stage with the inimitable B B King!

There was a lot more music, but we were flagging.Text: To the Music

I headed back down the mountain with a song in my heart.

Until next time –

Keep Dancing!

Pictures: 17-19January2025