Johnstone Strait Fading into the mists, a deep and narrow glacier-carved passage runs between Sayward, here on the east coast of Vancouver Island, and neighbouring Hardwicke Island and the British Columbia mainland.
It was meant to be my reward: a road trip into new territory after an emotionally difficult period. So, I was driving north up Vancouver Island, off Canada’s west coast, in order to catch a ferry. This stop was merely a random pause – not a ‘destination’ at all.
Isn’t it often the way? The journey can take on more importance than the end-point. (Mind you, the intended goal was indeed phenomenal – watch this space!)
During my last rainy days in Nanaimo (see: Neck Point Park), I had booked accommodation in Sayward by phone: basing my choice purely on price and the distance between locations. So, I had no expectations when I pulled a short way off the North Island Highway and landed in a lush green valley, surrounded by mountains and tall trees that disappeared into dancing mists. Enchanting!
A mere ten minutes further on, I found the little village itself and the charming working port on Kelsey Bay – and stunning views over Johnstone Strait. The almost-constant rain was like a soft enveloping mist and only added to the ethereal quality of the landscape.
I was hooked! And became determined to get back there.
One day …
In the meantime, I can look at the photos and dream.
Oyster Bay I’ve stopped here before: the view across the Strait of Georgia to the snow-capped mountains on the British Columbia mainland always takes my breath away. (iPhone12pro)
Driftwood This is logging country, and everywhere you go, break-away stumps and weathered logs are washed up onto the shore like Nature’s own sculptures. (iPhone12pro)
Johnstone Strait The next day, I grab the cameras and drive to the end of Sayward Road where there are views over Kelsey Bay and across the Strait.
Kelsey Bay Marina This is a small but strategically-placed marina with both private and government facilities.
Provincial Park Sign Historic Yorke Island is somewhere there to the north, accessible only by boat. Perhaps I can explore it some other time!
Mist in the Treetops In the other direction the mountains rise steeply, with their tall Douglas firs swathed in the descending clouds.
Breakwater The breakwater on one side of the small harbour is a stone wall; …
Old Ship on the Breakwater … on the other side, old rusting hulls protect the small harbour from the busy log-booming grounds next door.
Coast Guard During the summer months a Canadian Coast Guard Inshore Rescue Boat Station is located here. I watched as the small crew – all well rugged up against the cold – went through their pre-launch procedures and finally took their inflatable craft out on the water.
Moving Logs The noisy timber yard is busy and fascinating to watch.
Cormorant Rock A 2018 sculpture by Howard Lobb sits outside the yard.
Leaves on the Harbour I leave the wet harbour behind, and go in search of a nearby walking trail.
Wet and Overgrown … which, unfortunately for my boots and trousers, is muddier and more overgrown than I was led to expect.
Rubus Parviflorus It is very early summer, so the indigenous raspberry-like thimbleberry fruit are not out yet. Fortunately, their canes reaching across the path have no thorns.
Geranium Robertianum The wet ground is host to the introduced Roberts geranium.
Maple under Moss In the tall, dark forest, grandfather’s beard (Usnea) drapes the trees all around me.
Salmonberries Unlike the thimbleberries, the native salmonberries (Rubus spectabilis) are starting to fruit.
Salmonberry Flower and Fruit Berries and shoots are still used by some Native American people.
Small Cedar – Large Cherry The forest is a rich mix of evergreen conifers and deciduous trees.
Pacific Banana Slug (Ariolimax Columbianus) I have to watch my feet: the under-used trail is home to many creatures.
The Bay in Sight Finally! The destination is in sight below. But, I’m wet and running out of time, and according to my running app, I have already walked far enough to be in the middle of the bay!
Wet Fir So, I turn around and make my way back through the wet woods.
Fern Ferns of all types thrive in this wet maritime climate.
Forest Tangle As I tread gingerly through the tangle, across boggy ground, I reflect that a little bit of maintenance would make this walk a LOT more enjoyable.
Elk Creek / Salmon Estuary The next morning, a local took me around to visit other mist-enveloped sights. Thanks to local benefactors, and management by First Nations, government, and business interests, these wetlands around the estuaries into the Salmon River are protected in perpetuity. (iPhone12Pro)
Fallen Logs and Tall Trees There was an elk across the river from us! It was too far away for the phone camera to capture, but I was thrilled: it was the icing on a magnificent landscape. (iPhone12Pro)
It was with some regret that I drove away from this little gem of a valley.
But, I’m determined to return – and perhaps make a better job of accessing the waterways and trails on offer! I might even put down roots.
Ad Deir (The Monastery), Petra, Jordan It’s a hot, steep, and dusty climb to The Monastery, one of Petra’s most magnificent monuments. The 2000+ year-old carved structure stands 45 meters (148 ft) tall and 50 meters (160 ft) wide, dwarfing the tourists in the forecourt.
Petra! It was a dream come true.
This ‘rediscovered’ ancient city was built by the Nabateans some time around 300 B.C. Situated roughly halfway between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea in what is now Jordan, the city was at an important trading crossroads between Arabia, Egypt, and Syria-Phoenicia. It grew rich from hosting passing caravans laden with frankincense, myrrh, and exotic spices.
In addition to being a busy, lived-in space and the capital of the Nabatean Empire, Petra was a place of reverence and worship. UNESCO-listed for “Outstanding Universal Value”since 1985, and considered ‘one of the world’s richest and largest archaeological sites’, the dramatic landscape of variegated sandstone is dotted with soaring temples and tombs which are half-built, half-carved into the surrounding mountains and gorges.
One of the most elaborate of these temples is Ad Deir (ad-Dayr, el-Deir), the Monastery: a façade believed to have been carved out of the sandstone rock face for religious purposes. It dates to the 1st century BC and was dedicated to Obodas I. At 45 meters (148 ft) tall and 50 meters (160 ft) wide, it is Petra’s largest monument – and is breathtakingly beautiful in its Hellenistic-inspired simplicity.
Ad Deir is most easily reached via an old processional path: the Petra Monastery Trail. The track is 2.5km (1.6 miles) return from the end of the Petra Main Trail (4km / 2.5mi) at the ancient city center. The internet differs regarding the difficulty of the access: it is variously rated as a ‘medium walk’ or a ‘steep climb’, with between 850 and 900 uneven stone steps climbing almost 200 m (72 ft).
I was determined to make the trek, but was feeling somewhat daunted by the heat, my own limitations, and by those reports. So, I allowed ample time, packed plenty of water, and carried my hiking pole (my knees do not like stairs!). I had arrived into Petra early morning, and after walking through the Siq, I hiked from The Great Temple up and around the Byzantine Church (see: Patterns in the Siq) before starting out for the Monastery.
The MonasteryTrail was hot – and it was steep and uneven. But, I had my cameras and there was so much to see that I could stop to take pictures whenever I needed a breather.
To be honest, I can’t remember how long it took me, but it was SO worth it!
The Great Temple My walking loop around the Byzantine Church ended back at The Great Temple (see: Patterns in the Siq), the largest freestanding architectural complex in Petra. Started some time toward the end of the 1st century BC, it is believed to have been completed in the first century CE, under the King Aretas IV. It was only uncovered in 1993, and in spite of the name, it is thought to have been a royal reception hall.
Ancient Rubble The whole site is still undergoing careful excavation; archaeologists estimate that only five percent of the city has been uncovered.
Hut in the Hill Some of the structures built into the sandstone cliffs look quite recent.
Donkeys on the Path For those who don’t want to walk, there are donkeys for hire – but they look so dainty that forcing them to carry over-sized tourists seems cruel.
Multi-Hued Landforms and Stairs
The Procesional Stairs The lower stairs are quite level-looking, but you still have to watch for loose stones and donkey turds.
Worn Stairs Before long, however, the steps become more treacherous …
Leaning Rocks … and you have to thread yourself through tunnels …
Walkers on the Path … created by large, leaning boulders.
Colourful Rocks and Greenery I just couldn’t get over the beauty of the striations and colours in the sandstone.
Weathered Entrance to a Rock Chamber Tombs and rock chambers are dotted all over the hillside.
Trail to Ad Deir The path continues upward.
Donkeys on the Up-Hill Personally, I enjoy a walk, and wouldn’t entertain riding one of these dainty donkeys – especially when there are still reports of poor treatment.
Shawls and Carpets on the Steps Nestled into corners, Bedouin traders are ready to tempt you with their wares.
Swirls of Colour
Donkey Waiting You can change your mind about donkey transport at many points up the hill.
Bedouin with his Earpods The traditionally nomadic Arabs who have long inhabited these desert regions have embraced the modern age.
The Monastery And finally! There it is!!
Coffee at The Monastery What better reward for a hot, hard walk? I treated myself to an Arabic coffee and sat in awe of that magnificent carved sandstone monument. (iPhone6)
“The Best View in the World” It is hard to argue with the sign …
Overlooking the Monastery and the Hills of Petra … when it leads you to this!
Another Donkey This donkey seems to be enjoying the view as well.
Portrait of a Young Bedouin
Man on a Donkey Too soon it is time to work my way back down the hill – trying to stay out of the way of the donkey trains as I go.
Portrait of an Elderly Woman
Donkeys on the Trail to Ad Deir There are still plenty of people climbing the trail as I pick my way carefully down.
Nature’s Artworks : Sandstone Sculptures
Heading Back Back in the centre of the ancient city, actors in Roman uniform who are returning to the Great Temple share the path with tourists.
Me on a Bedouin Pony
There is a clear demarcation of animals at Petra: the donkeys handle outer trails; camels are found around the Treasury; horse carts travel through the Siq, and ponies operate between the entrance, and the start of the Siq.
There are ongoing concerns about animal treatment at the site, but these days there are mechanisms for reporting animal abuse, and handlers are aware that the spotlight is on them.
A pony ride to or from the Visitor Center is included in the entry fee – with the caveat that you tip the owner $5US! I had reservations about using my ride ticket … but, I had walked a lot, and was hot and tired – and the handler was very persuasive!
Australian Fan Palms – Licuala Ramsayi These beautiful, slow-growing palms are endemic to the Wet Tropics of north east Queensland, Australia, and are just one of the many reasons this rainforest is UNESCO-listed.
The Daintree is an ancient and magical place.
Part of the much larger Wet Tropics of Queensland World Heritage Site, the Daintree National Park comprises 1,200 km2 (463.3 sq mi) of stunningly beautiful tropical rainforest in Far North Queensland, Australia. The park is divided into two sections: along the coast, north of the Daintree River; and the Mossman Gorge section (Watch this space!), south of small towns and an agricultural area.
If there was an up-side for me to the travel restrictions placed on us during Covid-19, it was the opportunity to travel within Australia. The combination of the Far North Queensland’s Wet Season (i.e.: Low Season) and the rolling lock-downs made accommodation much more accessible and affordable. I managed to organise a week’s accommodation in Port Douglas (see: On Port Douglas Waters), giving me access to this wonderful region.
I have visited the southern section of the park before, but this was my first foray into the area north of the river – arguably the most spectacular, and certainly oldest section of rainforest. In fact, this may be the oldest surviving rainforest in the world, having existed continuously for more than 110 million years. As a consequence, these northern tropical forests have the highest concentration of primitive flowering plant families in the world.
I counted myself extra lucky when a local North-Queensland resident, who knew all the best stops, offered to show me around. This meant I got to just watch the scenery as it rolled past on the slow, windy road north. And, we explored the best boardwalks.
Do come along!
The Daintree Ferry Time slows down here: although the wait for the 15-minute cable-ferry crossing is short, it is long enough for a mental reset.
Walu Wugirriga Lookout It is a short drive from the ferry to Mount Alexandra, where the Walu Wugirriga Lookout allows for great views over the mouth of the Daintree River and out to the Coral Sea. The higher mountain on the left is Harris Peak (1068m), and Port Douglas, where I started my morning, is hiding, nestled below.
Dubuji Boardwalk A number of elevated boardwalks lead from the road to the beach; they allow visitors access while reducing the disturbance to soil and native vegetation. Dubuji means ‘place of spirits’ – and it is rather awe inspiring.
Little Red Mangrove Crabs The boardwalks also protect the small creatures – and keeps your feet dry!
Mangroves on Myall Beach Mangroves are an often-underappreciated cornerstone of estuarine or tidal ecology. They never cease to amaze me.
Cape Tribulation From parts of the walk, we can see Cape Tribulation, where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. The rocky headland was named by Lieutenant James Cook who saw this area as the beginning of all his expedition’s troubles: his ship, the HMS Endeavour, scraped a reef north east of the cape, and then ran aground on what is now called Endeavour Reef.
Myall Beach The pristine beach stretches around to the cape.
Creepers Back away from the beach, it is dark and lush, with vines and creepers everywhere.
A Dead Fan
Jungle Vines The undergrowth tangles upon itself.
Textured Tree Trunk Colours and patterns are everywhere you look.
Red Beech – Dillenia Alata
Lace Monitor – Varanus Varius As we rounded a corner, we startled a small monitor, who scuttled back into the undergrowth before I could get a good shot.
Palm Forest Sections of the Daintree are known for their fan palms – just one of about 920 different types of trees growing in Queensland’s Wet Tropics.
Australian (or Queensland) Fan Palm These native palms have spectacular circular leaves that grow up to 2 metres (6.5 ft) in diameter.
Hairy Red Pittosporum – Pittosporum Rubiginosum This tropical rainforest fruit is one of 200 pittosporums – and much more impressive than the ones that try to invade my garden, some 3000+ kilometres (1820 miles) to the south.
Through the Ferns There is always a battle for light in a rainforest.
Spring Waters Rising The creek along the Dubuji Boardwalk is spring-fed; …
Waters along the Boardwalk … although it is brown with organic matter, it is surprisingly clear.
Standing Tall in the Waters
Patterns and Contrasts I think that is a large native bee hive hiding behind the umbrella leaves.
Warning Our last stop was for a short walk along the Kulki Boardwalk, where we were reminded that one or two people – often tourists – are killed by crocodiles every year or two. (iPhone12Pro)
Incoming Ferry All too soon, it is time to catch the ferry and head back south.
First Glimpse That was the moment that I really felt I was back in India: when I caught sight – through the heavy and beautifully carved wood in a passageway – of one of the colourfully decorated roofs in the Kapaleeshwara Temple complex in Chennai.
India!
The heat, the crowds, the colours!
And, the intricately beautiful – and historic – architecture. All my previous forays into this vast and varied country have been in the north (see: Weekly Wanders India), where turbans and Mughal palaces and mausoleums are commonplace. In the south, French, Portuguese, and British influences are still much in evidence, and the Hindu temple architecture is representative of the complex Dravidian or South Indian style.
I was excited at the prospect of this trip: of getting back to the country after an almost ten year absence, and seeing a very different region. I had arrived into Chennai – “Gateway to South India” – late the night before and was now off on a tour of this eastern capital city on the Bay of Bengal … it even sounds exotic!
In the 1600s, the British called the city Madras – a shortened version of Madraspatnam, the name of the coastal fishing village where the British East India Company bought land and established a fort, factory, and trading post. But the history goes back much further, with prehistoric archaeological finds showing very early settlement, and written references to Tamil poets and kings dating to the first century. The French and Portuguese have also left their marks on the city.
Photography was disallowed or very restricted in many places. This is why I have no pictures from the soaring white Roman Catholic Basilica of San Thome Cathedral, originally built in the 16th century by the Portuguese, and rebuilt by the British in 1896. While we were there, a wedding was taking place (I think it was a wedding – it was in English, but I found the sermon hard to follow!), and local nuns were praying in a small chapel. We descended into the tomb where the Apostle St Thomas is purported to rest.
It is also why the only picture I’m sharing of the extensive property housing Government Museum and Art Gallery (or the Madras Museum) is an outdoor iPhone shot of the late-19th century British-built Museum Theatre. I cannot share with you any of the beautiful stone and bronze religious sculptures from across the Chola Dynasty (300s BCE – 1279 CE), and I would not want to show any pictures of the dusty, moth-eaten, taxidermied animals on display in the dark and worn Natural History rooms.
None of the inner temples or deities in the 16th-century Kapaleeshwarar Temple can be photographed – but there is so much going on outside in the courtyards that it is probably just as well!
Join me for a sampling of the historic buildings and bustling streets of Chennai, capital of Tamil Nadu.
The Museum Theatre Located near the entrance to the Government Museum and Art Gallery, the theatre was built by the British in the late 1800s in the Italianate style of architecture.
Time for Church Founded in 1639, Fort St George was the first English (later, British, and briefly French) fortress in India. Built inside its precincts between 1678 and 1680, St Mary’s Church is the oldest Anglican church in India.
Guard at the Gate Finding people to photograph in India is always easy!
Adjutant General Conway Statue One monument in St Mary’s is to Thomas Conway, known as “the soldier’s friend”. His lifesize statue is by noted English sculptor John Ternouth (1796–1848).
Brigadier Malcolm McNeill A soldier’s life was not always easy: this one died as a consequence of a Coup-De-Soleil, or sunburn.
Bangles and Beads The streets are lined with small shops comprising a confusion of products and colours.
Flower Lady People without shops simply work on a patch of mat in the streets.
Flower Lady and Shopkeeper All of these flowers are for sale to take as offerings to the Hindu temple nearby.
Candy Colours on the Roof Kapaleeshwarar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and stories about him and his consort Parvati, are represented in elaborate and colourful roof decorations.
The Main Tower It is believed the temple, which is in the typical Dravidian architectural style, was built in the 7th century CE. Many elements, however, have been added much later.
Nandi Shiva’svahana (mount) Nandi is an Ongole bull – an old breed of Indian cattle. This sacred bull is depicted in multiple forms around the temple.
Shiva and Parvati The details and colours around the temple are amazing. The stucco figures are painted every 12 years. Twelve years is the cycle of Jupiter, which is considered the most auspicious planet in Hindu Vedic astrology.
Friends I love that visitors to the temple are quite happy to have their pictures taken.
Shiva and the Bulls Hindu Gods are shape-shifters, appearing in multiple forms. While Shiva is usually depicted as svelte and handsome, here he takes a more rotund form.
Temple Drummer Musicians were playing at the crowded entry to one of the inner temples.
Another Dome – Another Story
Peacocks on the Roof Hindu Gods can take many forms: at this temple, Shiva’s consort Parvati is worshipped as Karpagambal. She came to Kapaleeshwara (Shiva) in the form of a peahen.
All Over the World … No matter where you go, people connect to the world through their phones.
The Old Traditions But, a few feet away, the old ways continue: this man was chanting ancient prayers from his book.
Offerings Fire holds multiple meanings and functions in Hindu traditions. Agni, (fire), is the messenger between people and their God, and allows people to see the form of the deity. (iPhone12Pro)
Lighting Lamps The women chant prayers softly as they light their lamps.
Mother and Son A pilgrimage to a special temple is often a family affair.
Shops in the Street Back in the neighbouring street, shops are selling food, flowers, and other religious offerings and paraphernalia.
Garlands The roses and jasmine in the heavy garlands give off a heady fragrance.
Shopping for Fresh Produce The fresh fruit and vegetables available in the street are almost as attractive as the garlands!
One of the many things I love about India is the colour.
Selling Wood Carvings In the historic Newari village of Bungamati, Nepal, people have lived as woodcarvers for generations.
Historically, the medieval Newar (Newari) village of Bungamati was known for its woodcarvers, its ancient temples, and its views of the surrounding mountains.
Bungamati is a tiny town of about 6,000 residents, sitting on a spur of land overlooking the Bagmati River at the southern edge of the Kathmandu Valley. When I visited, almost two years after the April 2015 Nepal earthquake, the main street of the village was still like a construction zone, with piles of rubble and buildings in states of disrepair everywhere (see: Manual Labour and Smiles).
I was in Nepal on a workshop with photographers Jack Kurtz (sadly, now deceased) and Gavin Gough, and was visiting some of the historic Newar villages in the region (see: Making Mustard Oil). We had the places we visited much to ourselves, as at that time the tourism industry had not really recovered.
Bungamati is celebrated as Kathmandu Valley’s long-established centre of wood carving, where skills and patterns have been passed down through the generations. Although the earthquake created a need to replicate traditional and elaborate doors, windows, and frames – especially on local temples and museums – people have been understandably preoccupied with clearing the debris and making their homes liveable again.
Even with these challenges, the people of Bungamati are still smiling, and many have picked up their hammers and chisels again to carve small items for sale to tourists (e.g.: Nepali Times: Reviving Woodcarving).
I was happy to walk among them, admiring their skills and handicrafts.
Carver in her Doorway Carvers work in the street,with carvings of all types on display.
Carved Door Old carvings, rich in religious symbolism, are all around, …
Old Bell … as are intricately patterned temple ornaments.
Bungamati Buildings After the earthquake of April 2015, buildings remain in states of partial ruin or repair. Stupas line the skyline.
Rubble Hindu worship is central to daily life here, and the ruination of so many temples was as heartbreaking as the damage to homes.
Woman with a Picture Life goes on on the front stoops of houses.
Shrine in the Ruins
Buddha in a Shop Religious iconography and handicrafts …
Wall Carvings … are available in the shops that line the street.
Grandma and Grandchild I have found that having photos of my grandchildren handy on my phone is a great conversation-starter – …
Kohled Eyes and Smiles … even though we have no language in common.
Bungamati Street Rubble and ruins are everywhere I look.
Lions in a Courtyard Bungarati is the birthplace of Rato Machhendranath, and the deity lived here six months out of the year. While the mythical-lion temple guards survived the earthquake, the Rato Machhendranath Temple and the Shikara-style pavilion that housed the deity were ruined.
Schoolgirl There is always something happening in the streets, with students off to school …
Man in a Woolen Cap … and people in their doorways.
Silver and Stones for Sale
Deities in Niches
Woodwork Design in Chalk A police officer sketches out a design for carving into a wooden panel.
Planning the Woodworks Design is a collaborative process.
Carving and Drawing Nearby, more artisans are at work, …
Drawing on Wood … carefully drawing …
Designing Patterns … intricate patterns …
Chiselling with a Carving Gouge … that will later be chiselled out.
Big Sister – Little Sister With grownups busy at work, children are often left in the care of older siblings.
Woman in the Street
Woman Weaving Everyone is busy with something; …
Hands at Work … floor mats made from the local grasses need to be replaced periodically.
Man Working Almost every household here is connected to woodcarving, …
Wooden Buddhas … and the products of their labours are on display.
Naturally, I couldn’t resist, and went home with a beautifully carved little Buddha for myself.
It’s a win-win really!
I get a beautiful souvenir from the source, and the village gets a small boost to its suffering tourist trade.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Until next lime,
.jpg)
