.jpg) Crak de Montréal – Montreal Castle
High on a rock in Jordan, the ruins of a Crusader-built fortress sit on the eastern flank of the Holy Lands, overlooking historical trading and pilgrimage routes between Egypt and Syria. A Crusader castle? It didn’t feel real to me; it was as if the pictures in an old children’s storybook had come to life.
My visit to Shobak Montreal Castle – now known as Qal’at ash-Shawbak in Arabic (the nomenclature and spellings vary wildly) – caused me to take a deep-dive back into my vinyl collection to find my copy of Chris de Burgh’s Crusader (1979). While that set the mood, I still needed internet searches to flesh-out my scant knowledge of the history.
The Crusades were essentially religious wars focused on holy sites considered sacred by both Christians and Muslims. Jerusalem was under Muslim rule for hundreds of years, but when the Arabic Fatimid Caliphate lost control of the city to the expanding Oghuz Turkic Seljuq Dynasty in 1073, Christian pilgrims to the city started reported increased difficulties, and the Byzantium Eastern Roman Empire felt under threat.
Byzantine Emperor Alexios I requested military support from Western Christians in 1095. Pope Urban II, head of the Catholic Church responded by advocating an armed ‘pilgrimage’ to Jerusalem, and the First Crusade (1096–1099) began. By 1099, the Kingdom of Jerusalem, a Crusader state was declared, and was under Christian control.
Baldwin I was one of the most successful commanders of the First Crusade and the second Christian ruler of Jerusalem. Part of his strength was in his diplomatic skills, but he also consolidated and expanded his domain by building and/or strengthening a number of fortresses. These included Montreal Castle, which he built on a rocky, conical mountain near Shobak.
Finished in 1115, the castle secured Christian control of the caravan routes between Syria and Egypt until it fell to Ayyubid Sultan Saladin (Salah al-Din) in 1189 – after almost two years of siege. The Ayyubid Sultans held the fortress until it was stormed by the Mamluk Sultan Baybars in 1261.
The castle is mostly in ruins, which to my mind adds to its charm and sense of history. Remains of a curtain wall and two chapels date to the Crusaders. The Mamluks renovated and decorated towers and walls around the 14th century, and carved inscriptions can be seen on these today.
The castle is just 30 km (19 mi) north of Wadi Musa where we had spent a couple of days rambling around Petra, so the morning sun was straight into our eyes from the east when we arrived, ready to explore a very different period in Jordanian history.
.jpg) The Old King’s Highway
The highway we are on follows the principal caravan route between Syria and Egypt and has been in use since time immemorial. The castle on the rock commands a view in all directions. It was originally named Mont Real or Mons Regalis (Royal Mountain) in honor of the King of Jerusalem Baldwin I and his contribution to its construction. .jpg) Hills and Valleys
Known as Qal’at ash-Shawbak in Arabic, the ancient fortress sits at the eastern side of the Arabah Valley.  Visitors Centre
The closer we are, the higher the castle looks. It sits at 1330 m (4364 ft) above sea level – but I’m not sure how far the valley drops. Textures
This dry and rocky terrain lacks a reliable source of water, so somehow the builders sank a well shaft down to a water vein inside the rock. Accessed by 375 steps, this allowed the castle defenders to retrieve water without being exposed to attack, and was one of the reasons it held out against siege longer than the nearby castle of Kerak. Once were Houses
Stone cottages blend into the hillside. Striated Hills and Ruins Castle Courtyard
Local handicrafts are on display in the outer courtyard. The Landscape Below
The dry land east of the River Jordan stretches out in all directions. Square Tower
The Arabic inscription on this tower built by the Mamluks refers to Sultan Husam al-Din Lajin (1297-1298). Fallen Arches Above
The delicate remains of vaulted arches are quite beautiful. Arched Entry
The ruins are an interesting mix of smoothly carved bricks and rough hewn stones, … Bricks and Rubble
… and they stretch out further than I first expected. Saladin’s Soldier
Men around the site are dressed as Muslim soldiers of the period. Portrait of a Medieval Soldier People in a Tunnel Tunnel towards the Light On the Ruined Walls Scorpion in the Sand
Three of Jordan’s fourteen species of scorpions are venomous; I stayed well clear of this one! Arches in the Crusader’s Church Break Time
Back at one of the arches, a soldier takes a break from his hot helmet. Looking out of the Dark
Another tunnel leads into a small room … The Baths
… that has been partly reconstructed, and once contained the baths. Wadi Dana
We leave the castle, and drive a half hour north to the Dana Visitor Center, where we can once again look back over that stark but beautiful landscape. The rule of the Ottomans continued over the castle until the Arab Revolt of 1916, when local sheikhs took control. Until the 1950s, the castle was the private residence of a few local families.
 Although various international and interdepartmental agencies have made plans for the restoration of the buildings, little has been accomplished.
I think I like it better that way!
Photos: 17October2019
Posted in Architecture,History,Jordan,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Christian,environmental portrait,history,Jordan,landscape,muslim,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Pancha Rathas
Carved out of a single pink granite outcrop, the five distinctive monuments in this complex resemble the wooden chariots (rathas) of their day. They have stood here since the 7th century, and have weathered two tsunamis and constant salt winds from the nearby Bay of Bengal. I’m not sure what impressed me most: the artistic beauty; the architectural complexity; or the mind-boggling age.
Mahabalipuram (Thirukadalmallai, Mamallapuram), one of the oldest cities in India, is a coastal town on the Bay of Bengal in Tamil Nadu, and home 40 ancient monuments and temples dated to the 7th and 8th centuries. UNESCO- listed as the Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram since 1984, these buildings includes ten major rathas (temples in the form of chariots), ten mandapas (cave sanctuaries), two rock bas-reliefs, and three structural temples. Some of the structures were left unfinished, giving modern historians insight into how they were constructed.
Touted as fine examples of classical Indian architecture, these monuments were built during the Pallava dynasty. This dynasty existed from 275 CE to 897 CE, coming to major prominence in South India between the 6th and 9th centuries CE. The Pallavas were noted for their patronage of Hindu temple architecture and for the fine abilities of their craftsmen. In the words of UNESCO: “The influence of the sculptures of Mahabalipuram, characterized by the softness and suppleness of their modelling, spread afar to places such as Cambodia, Annam and Java.”
I didn’t visit all 40 structures. But, with a tour guide and a small group, I did spend several hours exploring this magnificent collection of rock carvings. It was a complete contrast to Chennai, where we had been the day before (see: A Colourful Past and Present)!
Do join me:
Morning Sea Fog
Our first stop was at the aptly-named Shore Temple, built between 700 and 728 CE. You can just see the waters of the Bay of Bengal behind the fence. Family of Visitors
I love how so many Indians are willing to let perfect strangers take their pictures! Shore Temples
The three temples at the complex are built on the same platform; the larger two of these are dedicated to Shiva and the small third shrine, between the two, is dedicated to a reclining Vishnu. Pilgrims in Red and Yellow
Pilgrimage to sacred places is a cornerstone in Hindu practice – and Mahabalipuram is one of many Indian places on the target list. Visitors to the Temples
Pilgrims often wear auspicious red or saffron. Plenty of other local visitors – including school groups – are around as well. Shore Temple Roof
This is one of the oldest structural (as opposed to rock-cut) stone temples in Southern India, built with blocks of granite in the Dravidian architectural style. Indian Palm Squirrel – Funambulus Palmarum Shore Temple Repairs
Considered the finest early example of medieval southern Indian architecture, after standing by the sea for over 12 centuries, it needs some support and structural repair. Shore Temple Water Tank
From the water tank, we get a good view over the temple complex. Pancha Rathas
A short distance away, we enter a grouping of extraordinary monolithic structures: the Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots). They are generally believed to have been carved during the reign of Narasimhavarman I (630–668 CE), but some historians attribute the monuments to Narasimhavarman II (690–725 CE). Draupadi Ratha Doorway
This unfinished structure is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Durga; because they were never finished, the rathas were never consecrated, and therefore are not strictly ‘temples’. Nandi
As the sacred bull of the God Shiva, Nandi often makes an appearance at Hindu sites. Pilgrims at the Elephant
The site is lively with visitors and pilgrims. The beautifully carved two-storey, Vesara-style ratha next to the elephant here is Nakula Sahadeva, and stands almost 5 m (6 ft) high. Yudhishtir Ratha
Each of the five monuments in the complex resembles a wooden ‘chariot’ (ratha) – like the palanquins or howdahs used to transport people or deities. Where they are unfinished, you can see how the ratha and the plinth have been carved into a single, long granite monolith. Pilgrim Family at the Pancha Rathas Yudhishtir Ratha from the Side
Walking along the outer perimeter of the site, I got a whole new appreciation for the intricate designs. Bhima Ratha
The largest of the rathas, Bhima is 14 m (46 ft) long and about 7.6 m (25 ft) high and wide. Unlike the other buildings, this ratha has no inscriptions or sculptures. Kolam Lady
Outside the complex, I stopped to appreciated the rice-flour designs called Kolam, a traditional decorative art originating in Tamil Nadu. Every morning, women draw designs in front of their doorways to bring prosperity to their homes. Stone Carver
I also had a chat with a local craftsman – possibly a long descendent of those who created these impressive sites. Krishna Mandapa (Cave)
A short distance away, we find more beautiful carvings telling stories from Hindu mythology and showing scenes of everyday life in 7th-century Tamil Nadu. This complex and extensive rock-cut cave was completed in the mid-7th century. Descent of the Ganges or Arjuna’s Penance
Considered one of the largest bas-relief works in the world, this intricately chiseled artwork covers two large boulders of pink granite and measures 15 by 30 metres (49 ft × 98 ft). It depicts the elaborate story of how Bhagiratha, a legendary king in Hindu literature, brought the Ganga River to earth to purify the ashes of his relatives, thereby releasing them from their sins. The Ganesha Ratha
Our walk around the property leads us past the back of another elegant ratha. Krishna’s Butterball
This boulder and the optical illusion it creates gives tourists some light relief. The name refers to Krishna’s favourite food; it is also called the Stone of the Sky God. Measuring 6 m (20 ft) high and 5 m (16 ft) wide, this precarious-looking rock has been unmoved by kings or earthquakes for as long as anyone can remember. Adi Varaha Perumal Cave Temple
The last rock-cut cave temple I visited is also the oldest. Dedicated to Vishnu and dated to around 650 CE, the strikingly beautiful and elaborate relief sculptures inside show the God in various different manifestations: here he is a boar, lifting Bhudevi – the mother earth Goddess – up from the sea. Goats in the Garden
Outside the caves, goats wander around the protected domain … Mahabalipuram Street
… and in the seaside resort beyond, modern life goes on.
It is a remarkable collection of monuments – truly an historic and beautiful legacy in stone.
Until next time,
ॐ
Photos: 20January2023
Posted in Architecture,India,TravelTags: architecture,hindu,hinduism,history,India,Photo Blog,sculpture,temple,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
View from the Kangarutha Walking Track
Being an island, Australia has no shortage of breathtaking coastal views, like this one near Tathra in the Far South Coast of NSW. I’m very lucky: I live in a region with a magnificent coastline, lined with national and civic parks which are criss-crossed by walking trails.
Even so, I have to be reminded to get out of my own immediate back yard from time to time!
That is why I am so pleased that my local branch of the National Parks Association of NSW facilitates bimonthly bush walks, providing the impetus to stretch out a little.
Tathra is a seaside town just 45 minutes north of me here on the Sapphire Coast. It sits on a stunning headland, nestled between two National Parks: Mimosa Rocks National Park to the north and Bournda National Park to the south. That makes it a good starting point for many hikes.
Our group met there last Sunday to walk along a section of the Wharf to Wharf Walk, a 27 kilometre coastal walk between the historic Tathra and Merimbula wharves. Officially opened in June 2021, the walk links pre-existing trails that run through public coastal reserves, flora reserves, beaches, and across the varied terrain in Bournda National Park.
The track took us south from Tathra Headland to Boulder Bay in Bournda National Park, following part of the Kangarutha Track and a small portion of the Wharf to Wharf Walk. It is generally considered a moderately challenging 7 km (4.3 mi) route, with a lot of steps up and down, but the views are glorious, and provide a good excuse to stop and catch your breath. Still, I have to confess: three days later, my calves still hurt!
It was a real contrast to the last walk I did with the group in this locality: an easy 4.7-km out-and-back trail near Tanja, from Middle Beach to Gillards Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park. Mind you, that one was in the middle of summer. As high temperatures can make any walk more difficult, caution is always advisable.
Join me for two, distinctly different walks in the same general area.
Middle Beach
It is a short from the car park to Middle Beach, … Walkers on Middle Beach
… where our walk takes us across the sandy beach that borders the Pacific Ocean. Nature’s Artworks : Driftwood Rocks on Middle Beach
Looking south along the rugged coastline, we can just see Tathra on the horizon. Lacy Patterns
Wind, water, and time have worked into the rocks, … Patterned Rock
… leaving behind wonderful designs. Jagged Rocks at the end of Middle Beach At The Lookout
We take time to enjoy a last look over the beach … Twisted Grey Mangrove – Avicennia Marina
… before heading into the forest between the ocean and Middle Lagoon. These beautiful, twisting trees are the most common mangroves found along the mainland coast, and the only ones that thrive in these cooler climate zones. Pied Oystercatcher
Oystercatchers look for food in the saltbush on the shore of the lagoon. Views from the Tathra Headland
The other, more recent walk started further south in Tathra itself. The Wharf to Wharf Walk
This section of the Wharf to Wharf track hugs the cliff edges, … Boulder in the Grass
… giving us views over the lichen-covered rocks that have tumbled down. David Gallan
These wild places remain – and have been made accessible – because of volunteers and activists who lobby on behalf of our natural spaces. National Parks Association of NSW member Dave updates us on current issues. Walkers in the Tea-Trees
Much of the bush up here on the sandy cliffs is melaleuca (myrtle – myrtaceae) mixed with the coast banksia (Banksia integrifolia). Towards Kianinny Bay
Looking south from above Kianinny Bay, the coastline is pretty spectacular. A sailboat, tiny in the offshore waters, enjoys a different perspective to ours. Kianinny Boat Ramp
As we round the bend and before we drop back down to water-level, the boat ramp comes into view. Sea Urchins
While most of the fishermen off the Kianinny Boat Ramp are recreational, there are some commercial operators taking advantage of these beautiful waters. Goanna – Varanus Varius
Not far from the Kianinny Bay picnic area, a sharp-eyed walker spots a large lace monitor lizard – or goanna. Nature’s Sculpture – Tree Roots Stairs Up
On the other side of the parklands around the Kianinny Boat Ramp, we finally meet the Bournda National Park. Here, the relatively-new Wharf to Wharf walk picks up the long-standing Kangarutha Track. Blue Stars – Isotoma Axillaris
Flowers are a good excuse to take a breath-break after a difficult uphill section! Into Boulder Bay
After all the up-hill, we have a steep drop into Boulder Bay. Rounded Boulders
It is easy to see how the bay gets its name! The rocks and boulders are smoothed by years of tidal action. Back Up!
Although we have walked the whole 9 km (5.6 mi) track before (see: Walking the Kangarutha Track), on this occasion, we lunched at Boulder Bay and then retraced our steps. Echidna – Tachyglossidae
Although commonly quite shy, we managed a good look at this echidna in the shadows off the track. Coastal Views
When we are almost back at the carpark in Tathra, I continue to admire the coast – and to take virtually the same pictures as I took on the walk out.
This coastline is always beautiful – and walking it in good weather is hard to beat!
Until next time,
Happy Walking!
Photos: Mimosa Rocks National Park 17January2021 and Bournda National Park 19March2023
Ponies in the Rain
The Ghorepani Circuit is rocky and steep; unfortunately for us, it was also wet! (iPhone6) “Life is a journey, not a destination.”
– Ralph Waldo Emerson, Self-Reliance
They say that getting there is half the fun and that the journey is more important than the destination.
That may well be true, but it helps to keep the destination in mind when you need the motivation to keep going on a hard slog!
We were walking around the Ghorepani Circuit in the Annapurna region of the Himalaya. This typically five-day trek is one of the easiest that Nepal has to offer.
Cautionary note: ‘easiest’ does not mean easy! I had walked the circuit before when I was younger and fitter (see: Heaven and Hard Work), but had clearly forgotten how hard it was.
I was struggling.
Mind you, it is normal for me to have difficulty on even a slight incline – and then make it up on the flats or downhill. Unfortunately, in the Himalaya, there are no flats! What was more alarming was that my husband, who was usually a slow but strong and steady walker, was also battling. Fortunately for us both, most of the other walkers in our small group – coordinated by photographer Gavin Gough under the local guidance of Angfula Sherpa – were in our general age-bracket, and no one was in a hurry.
Our walk was made more challenging and uncomfortable by a drizzling mist – or actual rain – across most of those first two days. Many times, I was so tired, wet, and uncomfortable that I relied on my old iPhone6 rather than pulling my cameras out from under their water-proof covers.
But, Nepal has to be one of my favourite places on the planet, and a hike in the Himalaya is worth the wet, the cold, and the fatigue.
Preparing the Bags – Nayapul (2070m)
Spare a thought for the porters! As heavy as my cameras and day-pack felt, it is nothing compared to the bundle of overnight bags that the porters carry for us along the same route. Still, conditions have improved markedly, and everyone with us was equipped with proper clothing and footwear. (iPhone6) Toddler in the Doorway
This is one of the most popular trekking routes, and the locals are used to tourists. Even so, people watch for their doorways and windows as we pass. Modi River
I had clear memories of the stretch alongside the river: that’s how I realised we had done the circuit the other way around last time! The First of Many Steps!
It is always reassuring to know you are on the right track. Mind you, from this year, international visitors will not be allowed to trek without a licenced porter or guide (see: No More Solo Treks). (iPhone6) The Group
Our trekking registration cards – complete with photos – had been duly stamped, so our little group of six visitors and two Nepali Sherpas was ready to enter the Conservation Area. Waterfall on the Bhurung(di) River
Rivers criss-cross and tumble: fresh, foaming mountain water is everywhere. Buildings in the Rice
The Annapurna Conservation Area was established in 1985 and seeks to balance the needs of humans – especially those who have lived here for generations – with environmental protections. Buildings in the Terraces
Homes and gardens cling to the steep and terraced mountainside … Rocky Valley
… and rivers rush through the rocky valley below. Shelter on a Hill A Wet Walk
Spring is ‘pre-monsoon’ season, and it is not meant to be rainy! Clinging to the Hillside
Small villages like Tikhedhunga (1520m) dot our path. The infrastructure and accommodation is vastly improved since I was here last. (iPhone6) Prayer Flags
A bridge takes us across the Bhurung Khola (River) … (iPhone6) Over the Bhurungdi River
… and gives us a great view of the waterfalls far below. (iPhone6) Goat
We pass plenty of livestock as we continue to make our way to our first overnight stop. (iPhone6) Breakfast
After a welcome sleep in Ulleri (2020m), we set off early. Locals are still eating their morning breakfast and drinking their morning coffee. White Bricks and Blue Doors
Since my first trip to Nepal, I have associated this blue with the region: it is the most common paint colour and found everywhere. Buffalo Hoofs
We come across a group of villagers butchering and distributing parts of a slaughtered buffalo. A plastic sheet serves as an abattoir. Blue Roofs
The path continues to rise to Banthanti … School Children – Banthanti (2210m)
… where the children are setting off for school. Rhododendron Arboreum
Our path takes us through a forest of oak and rhododendron. Native to the High Himalayas, the rhododendron is Nepal’s national flower. Another Hill – Another Guesthouse Small Waterfall – Large Boulders Another Small Waterfall
I lost count of the waterfalls – large and small – that we passed. Pebbles in the River
The waters are crystal clear. The Little Hamlet of Nangge Thanti (2430m) Always Up! Houses in the Mists Rough Shale Steps
Thank heavens for my hiking pole. By this stage, I could barely lift my feet! Welcome to Ghorepani (2860m)
This is a scene I remember from the last trip: traders have long watered their ponies in Ghore (horse) Pani (water). As we – thankfully – reached our evening accommodation and dried our socks around the fireplace, I still had the destination in mind: the next day we would climb Poon Hill (Watch this space!), from whence, if the weather cooperated, we would have stunning views over the Annapurna Range.
Once I was showered (the availability of hot running water is another improvement in the region since my last visit), and seated with a glass of wine and a bowl of surprisingly-good pasta, I was happy.
For all my grumbling along the way, it was a beautiful walk.
I’d say: “I’d do it again!” but I’m truly not sure I could.
Photos: 19-20March2017
Posted in Landscapes,Nepal,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,landscape,National Park,nature,Nepal,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Bull Fresco
Bulls – mythical and real – played a central role in ancient Minoan culture. The North Portico of the Palace of Knossos features a tribute to one such magnificent beast. I always struggled with Greek mythology: there was an irrationality and impetuosity to the behaviour of the Gods that didn’t sit well with my conservative upbringing. And, having been trained to ‘be good’ and to ‘work hard’, the concept of being unable to escape one’s fate – regardless of one’s behaviour – was an anathema!
But, whether it was old black-and-white films on television, or the stories we read at school, those ancient tales were inescapable.
Do you remember Ariadne?
Ariadne was a Cretan princess who gave a ball of golden thread (or jewels, depending on the version) to Theseus, an Athenian prince, so that he might find his way out of the labyrinth after slaying Asterion, better known as the Minotaur: a rapacious beast that was half man, half bull, and who just happened to be Ariadne’s half brother.
Let me go back a few steps:
Minos, Ariadne’s father, was the son of Zeus and Europa. His ascension to the throne was under some challenge, so after he became the king of Crete and the surrounding Aegean islands, he prayed to the God of the Sea, Poseidon, to send him a sign of favour. Poseidon sent a snow-white bull, which Minos was meant to sacrifice. But, the new king thought he could substitute a less beautiful animal.
Naturally, Poseidon noticed. In order to punish Minos, he made the king’s wife, Pasiphaë, fall in love with the bull. The product of that union was the Minotaur (Minos’ Bull), an unnatural beast with a human body and the head and tail of a bull. As he grew, the Minotaur became ferocious and devoured humans for food. Minos ordered a specially designed labyrinth be constructed to contain the beast, and protect the people.
Meanwhile, Androgeus, a son of King Minos, was murdered by the Athenians. The king was understandably angry, and led a war against Athens. Rather than sacking the city after defeating it, Minos demanded that Athens send several youths and maidens to Crete every few years to be sacrificed to the Minotaur. On one occasion, Theseus, son of Aegeus, the king of Athens was among these offerings.
Ariadne fell in love with Theseus at first sight and – according to some stories – provided him a sword and ball of thread so that he could slay the Minotaur and retrace his steps out of the labyrinth. What happens next is fuzzy: Theseus either abandons Ariadne on Naxos, or has her killed … She’s either mortally wounded by Perseus, or ends up married to Dionysus, god of the grape harvest, and having lots of children.
The other thing that isn’t clear is whether the labyrinth actually existed. Because, surprisingly, the mythical King Minos’ palace at Knossos did. The site was rediscovered in 1878 by amateur archaeologist Minos Kalokairinos and excavated by the British archaeologist Arthur Evans and his team.
As if to lend credence to the mythology around this Minoan palace – originally built around 1900 BC – its size and complexity far exceeded the later archaeologists’ expectations. The palace was said to have been designed by the famous architect Daedalus with such complexity that no one who entered could find their way out. The Greeks called the palace of Minos ‘Labyrinth’ and described it as an enormous building with countless rooms and corridors. So, if the lower levels are not the labyrinth of the Minotaur, they are at the very least, an impossible maze!
Come explore:
Minos Kalokairinos (1843 – 1907)
At the entry to the grounds, there are two busts honouring the men who excavated the site. Minos Kalokairinos, born in Crete, was the businessman and amateur archaeologist who first found the ancient Palace of Knossos in 1878. Sir Arthur Evans (1851–1941)
Arthur Evans was a British archaeologist and pioneer in the study of Bronze Age Aegean civilization. From 1900, his team spent more than 30 years team carefully excavating and documenting the Knossos site. Evans is still widely admired for his approach, which ushered in new era of systematic archaeological enquiry. Kouloures
Arthur Evans called the circular subsurface pits with stone walls kouloura, after the round loaves of Greek bread. Constructed between 1850 and 1750 BC, the pits are believed to be storage containers, but experts don’t know if they held rubbish, grain, or water. Stone Foundations
In its time, Knossos was the ceremonial and political centre of Minoan civilization and culture. The city covered 10 km2 (3.9 sq mi), and the palace itself was 14,000 m2 (150,000 sq ft). Palace Ruins
Arthur Evans made rather extensive early 20th century restorations on parts of the palace’s most significant structures. While this allows visitors to appreciate the size of the site and the sophistication of the architecture, it also makes it hard to appreciate what is original: … Earthquake-Proof Cedar Columns
… for example, this graceful upside-down-fluted column of wood is almost 4000 years old and virtually earthquake proof! View from the Palace
The palace sits on Kephala Hill, overlooking mountains and olive groves. Over the Ruins
The surprisingly modern-looking complex of stone and unbaked brick stretches out all around. Ruins and Remains
The height and complexity of Minoan architecture is recognised as being well ahead of its time: this palace was four stories high in some parts. It was built some time between 1650 BC and 1450 BC, after the earlier buildings were destroyed during the Middle Minoan II period – probably by an earthquake. Around the Ruins South Propylon
The palace must have been a colourful place: everywhere you look, there are remains of frescos, painted in naturally-derived colours. The subjects included scenes of daily life, and depictions of legendary creatures, animals, rocks, vegetation, and marine life. Throne Room
This unique central room in the palace dates to the mid-second millennium BC. It is speculated that the slim alabaster throne – flanked by a fresco of mythical griffins – was a seat for the goddess, who would have received supplicants and sacrifices here. (iPhone12Pro) Storage Pots
The West Magazine comprises 19 oblong storerooms containing large earthenware jars – some lined with alabaster to make them watertight. Old Stones
From inside the grounds we see the South Entrance from the opposite side. The Grand Staircase
Looking down through the layers of relatively small, multi-functional rooms within the palace, you can see how it came to be called a labyrinth. Ground Plan
The almost-square complex stretches out around a large central court. North Propylon
Our circuit of the site brings us out past the North Portico, where the remains of that wonderfully vibrant Cretan bull still charges across the plaster. Bulls Head in the Giftshop
As I said earlier, bulls feature in every aspect of Minoan (and Cretan) life. Bull-Leaping Fresco
A few days later, in the wonderful Heraklion Archaeological Museum, I got to examine more closely remnants of original frescos recovered from the palace. This fascinating example shows the most popular athletic feat at the time: bull-leaping. Bull-Leaping Sculpture
This piece of ‘modern art’ from the museum blew me away! Dated between 1600-1450 BC, this ivory figurine of a bull-leaper depicts the difficult and dangerous effort required to successfully leap the animal: some have suggested that the bull and the acrobat become as one, possibly giving rise to the Minotaur story. I’m not sure about the Minotaur myth, but I came away with a small understanding of how the Minoan civilization contributed to Greek – and later European – architecture, and its place in Crete’s wonderful and varied history (see: Chapels, Caves, and Windmills).
And, I’ve developed an enormous appreciation for the beauty of Minoan art.
Photos: 05September2022
Posted in Architecture,Crete,HistoryTags: animals,architecture,blog,Cretan,Crete,Greece,Photo Blog,ruins,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
