Views over rocky outcrops from from the Kangarutha Walking Track, NSW Australia

View from the Kangarutha Walking Track
Being an island, Australia has no shortage of breathtaking coastal views, like this one near Tathra in the Far South Coast of NSW.

I’m very lucky: I live in a region with a magnificent coastline, lined with national and civic parks which are criss-crossed by walking trails.

Even so, I have to be reminded to get out of my own immediate back yard from time to time!

That is why I am so pleased that my local branch of the National Parks Association of NSW facilitates bimonthly bush walks, providing the impetus to stretch out a little.

Tathra is a seaside town just 45 minutes north of me here on the Sapphire Coast. It sits on a stunning headland, nestled between two National Parks: Mimosa Rocks National Park to the north and Bournda National Park to the south. That makes it a good starting point for many hikes.

Our group met there last Sunday to walk along a section of the Wharf to Wharf Walk, a 27 kilometre coastal walk between the historic Tathra and Merimbula wharves. Officially opened in June 2021, the walk links pre-existing trails that run through public coastal reserves, flora reserves, beaches, and across the varied terrain in Bournda National Park.

The track took us south from Tathra Headland to Boulder Bay in Bournda National Park, following part of the Kangarutha Track and a small portion of the Wharf to Wharf Walk. It is generally considered a moderately challenging 7 km (4.3 mi) route, with a lot of steps up and down, but the views are glorious, and provide a good excuse to stop and catch your breath. Still, I have to confess: three days later, my calves still hurt!

It was a real contrast to the last walk I did with the group in this locality: an easy 4.7-km out-and-back trail near Tanja, from Middle Beach to Gillards Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park. Mind you, that one was in the middle of summer. As high temperatures can make any walk more difficult, caution is always advisable.

Join me for two, distinctly different walks in the same general area.

Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Middle Beach
It is a short from the car park to Middle Beach, …

Walkers on Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Walkers on Middle Beach
… where our walk takes us across the sandy beach that borders the Pacific Ocean.

Driftwood on Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Nature’s Artworks : Driftwood

Rocks on Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Rocks on Middle Beach
Looking south along the rugged coastline, we can just see Tathra on the horizon.

Lacy patterned rock, Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Lacy Patterns
Wind, water, and time have worked into the rocks, …

Lacy patterned rock, Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Patterned Rock
… leaving behind wonderful designs.

Rocks on Middle Beach in Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Jagged Rocks at the end of Middle Beach

Walkers at a wooden lookout, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

At The Lookout
We take time to enjoy a last look over the beach …

Twisted grey mangroves, Middle Lagoon, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Twisted Grey Mangrove – Avicennia Marina
… before heading into the forest between the ocean and Middle Lagoon. These beautiful, twisting trees are the most common mangroves found along the mainland coast, and the only ones that thrive in these cooler climate zones.

Pied oystercatcher in the saltbush on the shore of Middle Lagoon, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Pied Oystercatcher
Oystercatchers look for food in the saltbush on the shore of the lagoon.

Views over rocky outcrops from the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

Views from the Tathra Headland
The other, more recent walk started further south in Tathra itself.

Views over rocky outcrops from the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

The Wharf to Wharf Walk
This section of the Wharf to Wharf track hugs the cliff edges, …

Boulder in a rocky cove, the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

Boulder in the Grass
… giving us views over the lichen-covered rocks that have tumbled down.

Portrait: man in a Shorebird hat, the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

David Gallan
These wild places remain – and have been made accessible – because of volunteers and activists who lobby on behalf of our natural spaces. National Parks Association of NSW member Dave updates us on current issues.

Walkers in the tea-trees, the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

Walkers in the Tea-Trees
Much of the bush up here on the sandy cliffs is melaleuca (myrtle – myrtaceae) mixed with the coast banksia (Banksia integrifolia).

Views over Kianinny Bay from the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

Towards Kianinny Bay
Looking south from above Kianinny Bay, the coastline is pretty spectacular. A sailboat, tiny in the offshore waters, enjoys a different perspective to ours.

Kianinny Boat Ramp from the Wharf to Wharf Walk, NSW Australia

Kianinny Boat Ramp
As we round the bend and before we drop back down to water-level, the boat ramp comes into view.

Tubs of sea urchins, Kianinny Boat Ramp, Tathra NSW

Sea Urchins
While most of the fishermen off the Kianinny Boat Ramp are recreational, there are some commercial operators taking advantage of these beautiful waters.

Goanna in the sand, Kianinny Bay, Tathra NSW

Goanna – Varanus Varius
Not far from the Kianinny Bay picnic area, a sharp-eyed walker spots a large lace monitor lizard – or goanna.

Tangled tree roots, Kianinny Bay, Tathra NSW

Nature’s Sculpture – Tree Roots

Wooden-edged steps up into Bournda National Park from Kianinny Bay, Tathra NSW

Stairs Up
On the other side of the parklands around the Kianinny Boat Ramp, we finally meet the Bournda National Park. Here, the  relatively-new Wharf to Wharf walk picks up the long-standing Kangarutha Track.

Blue stars in bloom on a patch of rock, the Kangarutha Track, NSW Australia

Blue Stars – Isotoma Axillaris
Flowers are a good excuse to take a breath-break after a difficult uphill section!

Overlooking Boulder Bay from the Kangarutha Track, NSW Australia

Into Boulder Bay
After all the up-hill, we have a steep drop into Boulder Bay.

Boulder Bay on the Kangarutha Track, NSW Australia

Rounded Boulders
It is easy to see how the bay gets its name! The rocks and boulders are smoothed by years of tidal action.

Wooden-edged steps up from Boulder Bay, Tathra NSW

Back Up!
Although we have walked the whole 9 km (5.6 mi) track before (see: Walking the Kangarutha Track), on this occasion, we lunched at Boulder Bay and then retraced our steps.

Echidna in the leaf litter, Kangarutha Track, NSW Australia

Echidna – Tachyglossidae
Although commonly quite shy, we managed a good look at this echidna in the shadows off the track.

Views over rocky outcrops from the Wharf to Wharf Walk, near Tathra, NSW.

Coastal Views
When we are almost back at the carpark in Tathra, I continue to admire the coast – and to take virtually the same pictures as I took on the walk out.

Text: Take only Pictures

This coastline is always beautiful – and walking it in good weather is hard to beat!

Until next time, 

Happy Walking!

Photos: Mimosa Rocks National Park 17January2021 and Bournda National Park 19March2023 

Ponies in the rain on the Ghorepani circuit, near Hille, Nepal

Ponies in the Rain
The Ghorepani Circuit is rocky and steep; unfortunately for us, it was also wet! (iPhone6)

“Life is a journey, not a destination.”

– Ralph Waldo Emerson, Self-Reliance

They say that getting there is half the fun and that the journey is more important than the destination.

That may well be true, but it helps to keep the destination in mind when you need the motivation to keep going on a hard slog!

We were walking around the Ghorepani Circuit in the Annapurna region of the Himalaya. This typically five-day trek is one of the easiest that Nepal has to offer.

Cautionary note: ‘easiest’ does not mean easy! I had walked the circuit before when I was younger and fitter (see: Heaven and Hard Work), but had clearly forgotten how hard it was.

I was struggling.

Mind you, it is normal for me to have difficulty on even a slight incline – and then make it up on the flats or downhill. Unfortunately, in the Himalaya, there are no flats! What was more alarming was that my husband, who was usually a slow but strong and steady walker, was also battling. Fortunately for us both, most of the other walkers in our small group – coordinated by photographer Gavin Gough under the local guidance of Angfula Sherpa – were in our general age-bracket, and no one was in a hurry.

Our walk was made more challenging and uncomfortable by a drizzling mist – or actual rain – across most of those first two days. Many times, I was so tired, wet, and uncomfortable that I relied on my old iPhone6 rather than pulling my cameras out from under their water-proof covers.

But, Nepal has to be one of my favourite places on the planet, and a hike in the Himalaya is worth the wet, the cold, and the fatigue.

A Nepali porter bundling bags at the start of the Ghorepani trek.

Preparing the Bags – Nayapul (2070m) 
Spare a thought for the porters! As heavy as my cameras and day-pack felt, it is nothing compared to the bundle of overnight bags that the porters carry for us along the same route. Still, conditions have improved markedly, and everyone with us was equipped with proper clothing and footwear. (iPhone6)

Nepali toddler in the doorway, Ghorepani trek.

Toddler in the Doorway
This is one of the most popular trekking routes, and the locals are used to tourists. Even so, people watch for their doorways and windows as we pass.

Modi River near Naya Pul, Nepal

Modi River
I had clear memories of the stretch alongside the river: that’s how I realised we had done the circuit the other way around last time!

Signpost for Ghorepani painted on the steps, Birethanti Nepal

The First of Many Steps!
It is always reassuring to know you are on the right track. Mind you, from this year, international visitors will not be allowed to trek without a licenced porter or guide (see: No More Solo Treks). (iPhone6)

Group shot in front of the Annapurna Conservation Area sign, Nepal

The Group
Our trekking registration cards – complete with photos – had been duly stamped, so our little group of six visitors and two Nepali Sherpas was ready to enter the Conservation Area.

Waterfall on the Bhurungdi River near Birethanti, Nepal

Waterfall on the Bhurung(di) River
Rivers criss-cross and tumble: fresh, foaming mountain water is everywhere.

Homes, green rice, and terraces, Birethanti Nepal

Buildings in the Rice
The Annapurna Conservation Area was established in 1985 and seeks to balance the needs of humans – especially those who have lived here for generations – with environmental protections.

Homes and terraces, Birethanti Nepal

Buildings in the Terraces
Homes and gardens cling to the steep and terraced mountainside …

Homes, terraces, and a rocky river valley, Birethanti Nepal

Rocky Valley
… and rivers rush through the rocky valley below.

Shelter with a thatched roof, Birethanti Nepal

Shelter on a Hill

Trekkers in raincoats on the Ghorepani circuit, near Hille, Nepal

A Wet Walk
Spring is ‘pre-monsoon’ season, and it is not meant to be rainy!

Tikhedhunga from the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Clinging to the Hillside
Small villages like Tikhedhunga (1520m) dot our path. The infrastructure and accommodation is vastly improved since I was here last. (iPhone6)

Prayer flags on bridge fencing, Tikhedhunga Nepal

Prayer Flags
A bridge takes us across the Bhurung Khola (River)(iPhone6)

Waterfall on the Bhurung River, Tikhedhunga Nepal

Over the Bhurungdi River
… and gives us a great view of the waterfalls far below. (iPhone6)

Goat on a steep slope, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Goat
We pass plenty of livestock as we continue to make our way to our first overnight stop. (iPhone6)

Nepali woman in a headscarf with a bowl of food, Ulleri Nepal

Breakfast
After a welcome sleep in Ulleri (2020m), we set off early. Locals are still eating their morning breakfast and drinking their morning coffee.

White brick building with blue doors and shutters, Ulleri Nepal

White Bricks and Blue Doors
Since my first trip to Nepal, I have associated this blue with the region: it is the most common paint colour and found everywhere.

Buffalo hoofs from a slaughtered buffalo, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Buffalo Hoofs
We come across a group of villagers butchering and distributing parts of a slaughtered buffalo. A plastic sheet serves as an abattoir.

Guesthouse with blue paint and roof, Banthanti Nepal

Blue Roofs
The path continues to rise to Banthanti

School children on the path, Banthanti Nepal

School Children – Banthanti (2210m)
… where the children are setting off for school.

Red rhododendron blossom, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Rhododendron Arboreum
Our path takes us through a forest of oak and rhododendron. Native to the High Himalayas, the rhododendron is Nepal’s national flower.

Guesthouse at the top of steep steps, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Another Hill – Another Guesthouse

Small Waterfall on the Bhurungdi River, Nepal

Small Waterfall – Large Boulders

Small Waterfall on the Bhurungdi River, Nepal

Another Small Waterfall
I lost count of the waterfalls – large and small – that we passed.

Waters of the Bhurungdi River, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Pebbles in the River
The waters are crystal clear.

Nangge Thanti, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

The Little Hamlet of Nangge Thanti (2430m)

A trekker on a steep path, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Always Up!

Houses on a hillside, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Houses in the Mists

Rhododendron forest, the Ghorepani circuit, Nepal

Rough Shale Steps
Thank heavens for my hiking pole. By this stage, I could barely lift my feet!

Welcome to Ghorepani (2860m)
This is a scene I remember from the last trip: traders have long watered their ponies in Ghore (horse) Pani (water).

As we – thankfully – reached our evening accommodation and dried our socks around the fireplace, I still had the destination in mind: the next day we would climb Poon Hill (Watch this space!), from whence, if the weather cooperated, we would have stunning views over the Annapurna Range.

Once I was showered (the availability of hot running water is another improvement in the region since my last visit), and seated with a glass of wine and a bowl of surprisingly-good pasta, I was happy.

Sign-Off-Namaste

For all my grumbling along the way, it was a beautiful walk.

I’d say: “I’d do it again!” but I’m truly not sure I could.

Photos: 19-20March2017 

  • Kevin - March 16, 2023 - 1:16 pm

    Nice set of pictures Ursula. Can’t believe it was 6 years ago! So much has happened since. If possible, could you send me a copy of the group shot? Thanks, Kevin.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - March 16, 2023 - 9:25 pm

      Done! It’s always great to have you on board.ReplyCancel

Bull fresco on the North Portico of Knossos, Crete Greece

Bull Fresco
Bulls – mythical and real – played a central role in ancient Minoan culture. The North Portico of the Palace of Knossos features a tribute to one such magnificent beast.

I always struggled with Greek mythology: there was an irrationality and impetuosity to the behaviour of the Gods that didn’t sit well with my conservative upbringing. And, having been trained to ‘be good’ and to ‘work hard’, the concept of being unable to escape one’s fate – regardless of one’s behaviour – was an anathema!

But, whether it was old black-and-white films on television, or the stories we read at school, those ancient tales were inescapable.

Do you remember Ariadne?

Ariadne was a Cretan princess who gave a ball of golden thread (or jewels, depending on the version) to Theseus, an Athenian prince, so that he might find his way out of the labyrinth after slaying Asterion, better known as the Minotaur: a rapacious beast that was half man, half bull, and who just happened to be Ariadne’s half brother.

Let me go back a few steps:

Minos, Ariadne’s father, was the son of Zeus and Europa. His ascension to the throne was under some challenge, so after he became the king of Crete and the surrounding Aegean islands, he prayed to the God of the Sea, Poseidon, to send him a sign of favour. Poseidon sent a snow-white bull, which Minos was meant to sacrifice. But, the new king thought he could substitute a less beautiful animal.

Naturally, Poseidon noticed. In order to punish Minos, he made the king’s wife, Pasiphaë, fall in love with the bull. The product of that union was the Minotaur (Minos’ Bull), an unnatural beast with a human body and the head and tail of a bull. As he grew, the Minotaur became ferocious and devoured humans for food. Minos ordered a specially designed labyrinth be constructed to contain the beast, and protect the people.

Meanwhile, Androgeus, a son of King Minos, was murdered by the Athenians. The king was understandably angry, and led a war against Athens. Rather than sacking the city after defeating it, Minos demanded that Athens send several youths and maidens to Crete every few years to be sacrificed to the Minotaur. On one occasion, Theseus, son of Aegeus, the king of Athens was among these offerings.

Ariadne fell in love with Theseus at first sight and – according to some stories – provided him a sword and ball of thread so that he could slay the Minotaur and retrace his steps out of the labyrinth. What happens next is fuzzy: Theseus either abandons Ariadne on Naxos, or has her killed … She’s either mortally wounded by Perseus, or ends up married to Dionysus, god of the grape harvest, and having lots of children.

The other thing that isn’t clear is whether the labyrinth actually existed. Because, surprisingly, the mythical King Minos’ palace at Knossos did. The site was rediscovered in 1878 by amateur archaeologist Minos Kalokairinos and excavated by the British archaeologist Arthur Evans and his team.

As if to lend credence to the mythology around this Minoan palace – originally built around 1900 BC – its size and complexity far exceeded the later archaeologists’ expectations. The palace was said to have been designed by the famous architect Daedalus with such complexity that no one who entered could find their way out. The Greeks called the palace of Minos ‘Labyrinth’ and described it as an enormous building with countless rooms and corridors. So, if the lower levels are not the labyrinth of the Minotaur, they are at the very least, an impossible maze!

Come explore:

Bust of Minos Kalokairinos, Knossos, Crete Greece

Minos Kalokairinos (1843 – 1907)
At the entry to the grounds, there are two busts honouring the men who excavated the site. Minos Kalokairinos, born in Crete, was the businessman and amateur archaeologist who first found the ancient Palace of Knossos in 1878.

Bust of Sir Arthur Evans, Knossos, Crete Greece

Sir Arthur Evans (1851–1941)
Arthur Evans was a British archaeologist and pioneer in the study of Bronze Age Aegean civilization. From 1900, his team spent more than 30 years team carefully excavating and documenting the Knossos site. Evans is still widely admired for his approach, which ushered in new era of systematic archaeological enquiry.

Kouloura at Knossos, Crete Greece

Kouloures
Arthur Evans called the circular subsurface pits with stone walls kouloura, after the round loaves of Greek bread. Constructed between 1850 and 1750 BC, the pits are believed to be storage containers, but experts don’t know if they held rubbish, grain, or water.

Stone foundations, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Stone Foundations
In its time, Knossos was the ceremonial and political centre of Minoan civilization and culture. The city covered 10 km2 (3.9 sq mi), and the palace itself was 14,000 m2 (150,000 sq ft).

Ruins of the Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Palace Ruins
Arthur Evans made rather extensive early 20th century restorations on parts of the palace’s most significant structures. While this allows visitors to appreciate the size of the site and the sophistication of the architecture, it also makes it hard to appreciate what is original: …

Wooden Column, the Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Earthquake-Proof Cedar Columns
… for example, this graceful upside-down-fluted column of wood is almost 4000 years old and virtually earthquake proof!

View from the Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

View from the Palace
The palace sits on Kephala Hill, overlooking mountains and olive groves.

Brick remains, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Over the Ruins
The surprisingly modern-looking complex of stone and unbaked brick stretches out all around.

Wooden Column, the Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Ruins and Remains
The height and complexity of Minoan architecture is recognised as being well ahead of its time: this palace was four stories high in some parts. It was built some time between 1650 BC and 1450 BC, after the earlier buildings were destroyed during the Middle Minoan II period – probably by an earthquake.

Stone and brick remains, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Around the Ruins

Fresco of people with pitchers, South Propylon, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

South Propylon
The palace must have been a colourful place: everywhere you look, there are remains of frescos, painted in naturally-derived colours. The subjects included scenes of daily life, and depictions of legendary creatures, animals, rocks, vegetation, and marine life. 

Throne Room, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Throne Room
This unique central room in the palace dates to the mid-second millennium BC. It is speculated that the slim alabaster throne – flanked by a fresco of mythical griffins – was a seat for the goddess, who would have received supplicants and sacrifices here. (iPhone12Pro)

Storage Pots in the West Magazine, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Storage Pots
The West Magazine comprises 19 oblong storerooms containing large earthenware jars – some lined with alabaster to make them watertight.

Layers of rooms, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Old Stones
From inside the grounds we see the South Entrance from the opposite side.

Layers of rooms, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

The Grand Staircase
Looking down through the layers of relatively small, multi-functional rooms within the palace, you can see how it came to be called a labyrinth.

Stone and brick remains, Palace of Knossos, Crete Greece

Ground Plan
The almost-square complex stretches out around a large central court.

Bull fresco on the North Portico of Knossos, Crete Greece

North Propylon
Our circuit of the site brings us out past the North Portico, where the remains of that wonderfully vibrant Cretan bull still charges across the plaster.

Bulls head in the giftshop, Knossos, Crete Greece

Bulls Head in the Giftshop
As I said earlier, bulls feature in every aspect of Minoan (and Cretan) life.

Bull-Leaping fresco, Heraklion Archaeological Museum, Crete Greece

Bull-Leaping Fresco
A few days later, in the wonderful Heraklion Archaeological Museum, I got to examine more closely remnants of original frescos recovered from the palace. This fascinating example shows the most popular athletic feat at the time: bull-leaping.

Bull-leaping sculpture, Heraklion Archaeological Museum, Crete Greece

Bull-Leaping Sculpture
This piece of ‘modern art’ from the museum blew me away! Dated between 1600-1450 BC, this ivory figurine of a bull-leaper depicts the difficult and dangerous effort required to successfully leap the animal: some have suggested that the bull and the acrobat become as one, possibly giving rise to the Minotaur story.

I’m not sure about the Minotaur myth, but I came away with a small understanding of how the Minoan civilization contributed to Greek – and later European – architecture, and its place in Crete’s wonderful and varied history (see: Chapels, Caves, and Windmills).

And, I’ve developed an enormous appreciation for the beauty of Minoan art.

Photos: 05September2022

Johnstone Strait from Sayward, BC Canada

Johnstone Strait
Fading into the mists, a deep and narrow glacier-carved passage runs between Sayward, here on the east coast of Vancouver Island, and neighbouring Hardwicke Island and the British Columbia mainland.

It was meant to be my reward: a road trip into new territory after an emotionally difficult period. So, I was driving north up Vancouver Island, off Canada’s west coast, in order to catch a ferry. This stop was merely a random pause – not a ‘destination’ at all.

Isn’t it often the way? The journey can take on more importance than the end-point. (Mind you, the intended goal was indeed phenomenal – watch this space!)

During my last rainy days in Nanaimo (see: Neck Point Park), I had booked accommodation in Sayward by phone: basing my choice purely on price and the distance between locations. So, I had no expectations when I pulled a short way off the North Island Highway and landed in a lush green valley, surrounded by mountains and tall trees that disappeared into dancing mists. Enchanting! 

A mere ten minutes further on, I found the little village itself and the charming working port on Kelsey Bay – and stunning views over Johnstone Strait. The almost-constant rain was like a soft enveloping mist and only added to the ethereal quality of the landscape.

I was hooked! And became determined to get back there.

One day …

In the meantime, I can look at the photos and dream.

Low tide looking east over Oyster Bay, BC Canada

Oyster Bay
I’ve stopped here before: the view across the Strait of Georgia to the snow-capped mountains on the British Columbia mainland always takes my breath away. (iPhone12pro)

Driftwood on the low tide of Oyster Bay, BC Canada

Driftwood
This is logging country, and everywhere you go, break-away stumps and weathered logs are washed up onto the shore like Nature’s own sculptures. (iPhone12pro)

Johnstone Strait
The next day, I grab the cameras and drive to the end of Sayward Road where there are views over Kelsey Bay and across the Strait.

Boats in the Kelsey Bay Marina, BC Canada

Kelsey Bay Marina
This is a small but strategically-placed marina with both private and government facilities.

Provincial Park Sign, Kelsey Bay, BC Canada

Provincial Park Sign
Historic Yorke Island is somewhere there to the north, accessible only by boat. Perhaps I can explore it some other time!

Douglas firs in the mist, Kelsey Bay, BC Canada

Mist in the Treetops
In the other direction the mountains rise steeply, with their tall Douglas firs swathed in the descending clouds.

Stone wall breakwater, Kelsey Bay Marina, BC Canada

Breakwater
The breakwater on one side of the small harbour is a stone wall; …

Old ship on the breakwater, Kelsey Bay Marina, BC Canada

Old Ship on the Breakwater
… on the other side, old rusting hulls protect the small harbour from the busy log-booming grounds next door.

Canadian Coast Guard leaving Kelsey Bay Marina, BC Canada

Coast Guard
During the summer months a Canadian Coast Guard Inshore Rescue Boat Station is located here. I watched as the small crew – all well rugged up against the cold – went through their pre-launch procedures and finally took their inflatable craft out on the water.

Machinery moving logs in a wet yard, Kelsey Bay, BC Canada

Moving Logs
The noisy timber yard is busy and fascinating to watch.

Cormorant Rocksculpture by Howard Lobb, Kelsey Bay, BC Canada

Cormorant Rock
A 2018 sculpture by Howard Lobb sits outside the yard.

Wet purple leaves, timber yard in the background, Kelsey Bay, BC Canada

Leaves on the Harbour
I leave the wet harbour behind, and go in search of a nearby walking trail.

Log bridge on the H

Logs and Leaves on the Log Bridge
AllTrails leads me to the H’Kusam Bay Access Trail ….

Overgrown H

Wet and Overgrown
… which, unfortunately for my boots and trousers, is muddier and more overgrown than I was led to expect.

Detail: white thimbleberry flowers, H

 Rubus Parviflorus
It is very early summer, so the indigenous raspberry-like thimbleberry fruit are not out yet. Fortunately, their canes reaching across the path have no thorns.

Detail: Roberts geranium in flower, H

Geranium Robertianum
The wet ground is host to the introduced Roberts geranium.

Tree branches covered in Usnea lichens, H

Maple under Moss
In the tall, dark forest, grandfather’s beard (Usnea) drapes the trees all around me.

Detail: unripe salmonberries, H

Salmonberries
Unlike the thimbleberries, the native salmonberries (Rubus spectabilis) are starting to fruit.

Detail: salmonberry flowers and fruit, H

Salmonberry Flower and Fruit
Berries and shoots are still used by some Native American people.

Detail: tree trunk and new growth, H

Small Cedar – Large Cherry
The forest is a rich mix of evergreen conifers and deciduous trees.

Pacific banana slug on the path, H

Pacific Banana Slug (Ariolimax Columbianus)
I have to watch my feet: the under-used trail is home to many creatures.

View over H

The Bay in Sight
Finally! The destination is in sight below. But, I’m wet and running out of time, and according to my running app, I have already walked far enough to be in the middle of the bay!

Detail: raindrops and new needles on a fir, H

Wet Fir
So, I turn around and make my way back through the wet woods.

Detail: curling fern, H

Fern
Ferns of all types thrive in this wet maritime climate.

Greenery on the H

Forest Tangle
As I tread gingerly through the tangle, across boggy ground, I reflect that a little bit of maintenance would make this walk a LOT more enjoyable.

Mist over the green floodplain of an estuary to the Salmon River, Sayward BC Canada

Elk Creek / Salmon Estuary
The next morning, a local took me around to visit other mist-enveloped sights. Thanks to local benefactors, and management by First Nations, government, and business interests, these wetlands around the estuaries into the Salmon River are protected in perpetuity. (iPhone12Pro)

Fallen logs on the green floodplain around the Salmon River, Sayward BC Canada

Fallen Logs and Tall Trees
There was an elk across the river from us! It was too far away for the phone camera to capture, but I was thrilled: it was the icing on a magnificent landscape. (iPhone12Pro)

Text: Take only PicturesIt was with some regret that I drove away from this little gem of a valley.

But, I’m determined to return – and perhaps make a better job of accessing the waterways and trails on offer! I might even put down roots.

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 01-03June2022

The Monastery, Petra, with tourists in the forecourt, Jordan

Ad Deir (The Monastery), Petra, Jordan
It’s a hot, steep, and dusty climb to The Monastery, one of Petra’s most magnificent monuments. The 2000+ year-old  carved structure stands 45 meters (148 ft) tall and 50 meters (160 ft) wide, dwarfing the tourists in the forecourt.

Petra! It was a dream come true.

This ‘rediscovered’ ancient city was built by the Nabateans some time around 300 B.C. Situated roughly halfway between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea in what is now Jordan, the city was at an important trading crossroads between Arabia, Egypt, and Syria-Phoenicia. It grew rich from hosting passing caravans laden with frankincense, myrrh, and exotic spices.

In addition to being a busy, lived-in space and the capital of the Nabatean Empire, Petra was a place of reverence and worship. UNESCO-listed for “Outstanding Universal Value” since 1985, and considered ‘one of the world’s richest and largest archaeological sites’, the dramatic landscape of variegated sandstone is dotted with soaring temples and tombs which are half-built, half-carved into the surrounding mountains and gorges.

One of the most elaborate of these temples is Ad Deir (ad-Dayr, el-Deir), the Monastery: a façade believed to have been carved out of the sandstone rock face for religious purposes. It dates to the 1st century BC and was dedicated to Obodas I. At 45 meters (148 ft) tall and 50 meters (160 ft) wide, it is Petra’s largest monument – and is breathtakingly beautiful in its Hellenistic-inspired simplicity.

Ad Deir is most easily reached via an old processional path: the Petra Monastery Trail. The track is 2.5km (1.6 miles) return from the end of the Petra Main Trail (4km / 2.5mi) at the ancient city center. The internet differs regarding the difficulty of the access: it is variously rated as a ‘medium walk’ or a ‘steep climb’, with between 850 and 900 uneven stone steps climbing almost 200 m (72 ft).

I was determined to make the trek, but was feeling somewhat daunted by the heat, my own limitations, and by those reports. So, I allowed ample time, packed plenty of water, and carried my hiking pole (my knees do not like stairs!). I had arrived into Petra early morning, and after walking through the Siq, I hiked from The Great Temple up and around the Byzantine Church (see: Patterns in the Siq) before starting out for the Monastery.

The Monastery Trail was hot – and it was steep and uneven. But, I had my cameras and there was so much to see that I could stop to take pictures whenever I needed a breather.

To be honest, I can’t remember how long it took me, but it was SO worth it!

The Great Temple, Petra Jordan

The Great Temple
My walking loop around the Byzantine Church ended back at The Great Temple (see: Patterns in the Siq), the largest freestanding architectural complex in Petra. Started some time toward the end of the 1st century BC, it is believed to have been completed in the first century CE, under the King Aretas IV. It was only uncovered in 1993, and in spite of the name, it is thought to have been a royal reception hall.

Column pieces outside the Great Temple, Petra Jordan.

Ancient Rubble
The whole site is still undergoing careful excavation; archaeologists estimate that only five percent of the city has been uncovered.

Flat-fronted building nested into a cliff, Petra Jordan.

Hut in the Hill
Some of the structures built into the sandstone cliffs look quite recent.

Donkeys and their handlers on the path to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Donkeys on the Path
For those who don’t want to walk, there are donkeys for hire – but they look so dainty that forcing them to carry over-sized tourists seems cruel.

Multi-hued cliffs along the Processional Stairway, Petra Jordan.

Multi-Hued Landforms and Stairs

Procesional Stairs to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

The Procesional Stairs
The lower stairs are quite level-looking, but you still have to watch for loose stones and donkey turds.

Large leaning rocks on the path to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Worn Stairs
Before long, however, the steps become more treacherous …

Large leaning rocks on the path to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Leaning Rocks
… and you have to thread yourself through tunnels …

Walkers in front of large leaning rocks on the path to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Walkers on the Path
… created by large, leaning boulders.

Red striped rocks along the Procesional Stairs to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Colourful Rocks and Greenery
I just couldn’t get over the beauty of the striations and colours in the sandstone.

Weathered entrance to a carved chamber along the Procesional Stairs to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Weathered Entrance to a Rock Chamber
Tombs and rock chambers are dotted all over the hillside.

Trail to Ad Deir, Petra Jordan.

Trail to Ad Deir
The path continues upward.

Donkeys with passengers on the trail to Ad Deir, Petra Jordan.

Donkeys on the Up-Hill
Personally, I enjoy a walk, and wouldn’t entertain riding one of these dainty donkeys – especially when there are still reports of poor treatment.

Woman with her display of shawls, trail to Ad Deir, Petra Jordan.

Shawls and Carpets on the Steps
Nestled into corners, Bedouin traders are ready to tempt you with their wares.

Red striped rocks along the trail to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Swirls of Colour

Saddled donkey, Trail to Ad Deir, Petra Jordan.

Donkey Waiting
You can change your mind about donkey transport at many points up the hill.

Portrait: Young Bedouin with his earpods, Trail to Ad Deir, Petra Jordan.

Bedouin with his Earpods
The traditionally nomadic Arabs who have long inhabited these desert regions have embraced the modern age.

The Monastery, Petra, Jordan

The Monastery
And finally! There it is!!

Brass Arabic coffee pot and a cup at the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Coffee at The Monastery
What better reward for a hot, hard walk? I treated myself to an Arabic coffee and sat in awe of that magnificent carved sandstone monument. (iPhone6)

Sign on the rocks above the Monastery, Petra Jordan

“The Best View in the World”
It is hard to argue with the sign …

Looking down over the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Overlooking the Monastery and the Hills of Petra
… when it leads you to this!

Donkey on the rocks above Petra, Jordan

Another Donkey
This donkey seems to be enjoying the view as well.

Portrait of a young Bedouin in a keffiyeh, Petra, Jordan

Portrait of a Young Bedouin

Man on a donkey, path to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Man on a Donkey
Too soon it is time to work my way back down the hill – trying to stay out of the way of the donkey trains as I go.

Portrait of an elderly Bedouin woman, Petra Jordan

Portrait of an Elderly Woman

Donkeys on the trail to Ad Deir, Petra, Jordan

Donkeys on the Trail to Ad Deir
There are still plenty of people climbing the trail as I pick my way carefully down.

Carved and sculptured rocks along the trail to the Monastery, Petra Jordan

Nature’s Artworks : Sandstone Sculptures

Actors in Roman uniform and tourists on the Petra Main Trail, Jordan

Heading Back
Back in the centre of the ancient city, actors in Roman uniform who are returning to the Great Temple share the path with tourists.

Woman on a pony, Petra Jordan

Me on a Bedouin Pony

There is a clear demarcation of animals at Petra: the donkeys handle outer trails; camels are found around the Treasury; horse carts travel through the Siq, and ponies operate between the entrance, and the start of the Siq

There are ongoing concerns about animal treatment at the site, but these days there are mechanisms for reporting animal abuse, and handlers are aware that the spotlight is on them. 

A pony ride to or from the Visitor Center is included in the entry fee – with the caveat that you tip the owner $5US! I had reservations about using my ride ticket … but, I had walked a lot, and was hot and tired – and the handler was very persuasive!

When in Petra

Until next time,

Happy Trails!

Pictures: 16October2019