Misfat Al Abriyeen With a 300-plus-year history of human settlement and agriculture, this is an area known for its incredible mud architecture and its traditional Omanifalaj irrigation system.
Nestled at the foot of the Hajar Mountains are some of the oldest villages in Oman.
This is a rugged, desert region with little rainfall. Settlements could only survive where ground water was available. But, where water was found, it was ingeniously managed. Using a type of irrigation system developed 5000 years ago in Persia, UNESCO-World Heritage Listed water channels in the north of Oman date back to 500 AD.
Called aflaj (plural) or falaj, from the classical Arabic meaning “split into parts”, the system uses gravity to channel water from underground sources or springs and then divides it among community members to support crops and domestic use. This allowed the development of agriculture and gave rise to permanent villages. Watchtowers and forts were built in defensive positions near or overlooking the sharia (distribution point: literally “the clear, well-trodden path to water”) and falaj channels.
My visit to Oman included a walk around Misfat Al Abriyeen (Misfat al Abriyyin) in the Al Hamra region. This traditional village built into a mountainside has a 300-year history and is known for its mud buildings, which use giant boulders as foundations. It is also home to some of the more than 3,000 aflaj still functioning in the country.
We drove to a viewpoint over the town from the nearby mountain of Jebel Shams (see: The Grand Canyon of Arabia), before taking a walk through the steep and narrow ancient streets.
A Rugged Landscape Looking across the arid foothills around Jebel Shams, you get a feel for how difficult early life must have been for the semi-nomadic tribes who settled near here.
Misfat al-Abriyeen and Al Hamra Small mountain villages, with their clever management of spring water, have become oases in an otherwise arid landscape.
Rocky Terrain The rocks tumbled around the mountain village of Misfat Al Abriyeen are a sample of the those used to construct the ancient buildings we are about to walk through.
Rustic Door Oman is known for its doors, which range from simple bolted wood …
Coloured Patterns … to colourful patterned confections in painted iron.
Locked?
Workmen This village is very lived-in; keeping the ancient buildings maintained must require a lot of effort!
Narrow Laneway Narrow lanes and steep stairs wind off from the main path …
Boy in the Street There aren’t many people around, but we spot a few.
Unripe Pomegranate As we follow a water canal down the hill, our path is lined with greenery.
Playing in the Falaj A small tank built into the falaj system …
Boys in the Falaj … makes an ideal spot to play and cool off.
Metal Door
Village on the Hill We’ve descended a fair distance from our starting point.
Staircase What comes down, must go up!
Metal Window Shutters I use another ornate metal design as an excuse to pause on the ascent.
Building on a Cliff The incredible mud-brick and stone buildings use the hulking boulders of the terrain for their foundations.
Date Palms Dates are central to Omani life, and palms are the most visible trees in the plantations that also contain mangoes, bananas, papayas, pomegranates, and citrus fruits.
Brick Wall and More Stairs
House Front A decade ago many of the old houses were abandoned, but the rise in tourist visitors is bringing locals back to renovate their old houses and make an additional income.
Window Rails
Pots for Sale Tourism has revitalise the local crafts …
Pots in the Wind … and plenty of beautiful clay pots are available for purchase.
Palms and a Village At the top of the hill, we get a look over the newer city before heading back to our car.
Misfat Al Abriyeen is a beautiful mud village, blending seamlessly into the very rocks of the mountainside around it, and nourished by the falaj that runs through it.
Fairmont Château Lake Louise Originally built as a luxury destination hotel by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the early 1900s, the Château Lake Louise stands as a stately beacon to days gone by.
Lake Louise in Alberta’s Banff National Park has always held an attraction for me. When I was a child, we would camp in the vicinity regularly. Many years later, my husband and I treated ourselves to a winter stay at the majestic Fairmont Château Lake Louise and I was able to introduce him to this beautiful area.
This last Northern summer, as part of a Western Canadian road trip (see: A Mountain Village in Spring), I stayed in the township of Lake Louise for a few days: not in the luxurious Château, but in the more modest Lake Louise Inn downtown. Naturally, the first thing I did was check out the walking trails. I discovered that the Louise Creek Trail would take me up to the Château and allow me to revisit my memories.
AllTrails call it a “moderately challenging” 6.9 kilometre (4.3 mile) “out and back” trail; I clocked 14.71 kilometres (9.1 miles) on my walking app, and was very ready to put my feet up at the end. But, it’s a delightful climb along the rushing creek – and to see the magnificent hotel at the end was a real treat.
Join me for a walk in the Canadian woods:
Lake Louise Inn Encircled by the majestic Canadian Rockies, the Inn is a sprawling accommodation a short walk from town centre.
Columbian Ground Squirrel – Spermophilus Columbianus There is plenty of wildlife around the grounds.
Crossing the Bow River Originating here in the Canadian Rockies, the Bow River winds through the National Park and the Alberta foothills towards the South Saskatchewan River to the east.
Island in the Bow From the highway bridge, there are beautiful views upriver, …
The Bow from the Bridge … and down.
A Fork in the Trail The trails are well marked – but some are closed off for the season.
Louise Creek Trail My trail leads off into the woods, …
Small Orchids … with small flowers in the leaf litter at the sides.
Tumbling Water Most of the trail follows the creek …
Louise Creek … which rushes down to reach the river.
Stairs over the Highway The trail leads up …
Tunnel … and then under the highway.
White Water in Louise Creek
New Growth
The Winding Path
Deer Lodge The trail approaches the highway, and buildings come into sight.
Château Lake Louise Finally! The château rises up at the end of a long driveway.
Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel – Callospermophilus Lateralis Small ground squirrels run around the property …
Curiosity … and look to see if food is on offer.
The Bridge There are a lot of tourists around, and the day-carpark is full.
The Lake The glacial waters stretch out to the mountains …
Canoes on the Lake … and are full of boaters.
Water on the Rocks The way back seems shorter than the way out, …
Back on the Bow … and before long I was on the bridge over the river.
Walkers in the Canyon The hike through the Samaria Gorge, in the rugged mountains of southern Crete, is stunning – but exhausting. I was told it was 18 kilometres (11 miles) in length – but with the hills, and the extra walk to town, my walking app logged 32 kilometers!
I have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew. This is never more obvious than when I select walks to do while I’m travelling.
Take Crete, for example: on my first day on the ground after many hours in transit, I had booked myself onto a bus trip that included a 7.6 kilometre (4.6 mi) hike with a 270 m (886 ft) drop and rise (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest). Add a midday Mediterranean sun and I turned tomato-red and thought I was going to die!
Naturally, I did not learn my lesson. Three days later, I was on another bus, heading to the top of the Samaria Gorge – also in southern Crete. AllTrails, who are known to underestimate rather than overestimate difficulty, list this as a 14.5 km (9 mi) ‘challenging’ route. On the plus side, much of the track is downhill – steeply downhill. On the minus side, there is a long walk to town once the actual gorge is finished, and if you don’t make it to Agia Roumeli for the evening ferry, you are stranded!
Don’t get me wrong, I love walking. But, I no longer have the knees or the stamina I once had, and I found myself quite anxious the night before my trip.
But, I finished. I couldn’t have done it without a walking stick for the steep and rocky downhill sections – of which there are many – and I had to adjust my boots more than once.
Orthodox Church – Lakkoi Xania I had my nose pressed to the window for most of my bus trips across Crete – each view was more dramatic than the last! (iPhone12pro)
Ξυλόσκαλο – Xyloskalo – Wooden Staircase The northern entrance to the track starts at about 1250m (4100 ft) and drops steeply into the gorge.
Looking through the Samaria Gorge The gorge cuts through the rugged White Mountains. At 16 km (10 mi), it is the longest in Europe. Stunning views from near the top of the hike make a good excuse to stop for a moment!
Steep Stairs The first 6 km (3.8 mi) of the trail zig-zag down a steep cobbled staircase. Good boots are a must!
Fire-Fighting Equipment This was a year before Greece suffered devastating wildfires; clearly the National Parks are prepared.
More Down … The track continues down, but is softer underfoot where generations of trees have dropped their needles.
Mule on the Trail The track can be quite hazardous, and there are mules at the ready in case someone needs rescuing. I didn’t see anyone making use of them: one woman fell and required first aid the day I hiked the path, but I think she managed to walk out herself.
Two Kilometres (1.24 Miles) Only two! My walking app says three – and my knees already say five.
Rocky Walk Most of the uphill sections ae mercifully short.
Nature’s Sculpture – Twisting Tree Trunk Samaria cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var. horizontalis) have strong horizontal branches that give the tree a bulky shape. They can live two to three hundred years.
Rocky Cairn Humans seem to feel the need to mark their passing: small cairns dot the countryside.
Artesian Waters There are a number of fresh springs along the route – I think this one is the Spring of Riza Sykias.
Agios Nikolaos Church This little Greek Orthodox chapel marks the first official rest stop and the end of the steepest sections of track. It wasn’t open, but is was still a lovely spot for a quick break. Nearby, old ruins are believed to be from an ancient shrine to Apollo.
Artesian Pool All the springs have no swimming signs clearly posted.
Autumn Leaves on the Water The water is drinkable – and incredibly clear.
Flowering Sea Squill – Drimia Maritima
View over the Scree Clearly, there is still more descending to do! Some say the gorge was created by a small river running between the White Mountains (Lefká Óri) and Mt. Volakias. Others credit the influence of tectonic processes more than two million years ago.
Walled Gardens in Samaria The settlement here was populated until 1962, when the Samaria National Park was formed, and the villagers were moved out.
Bridge to the Samaria Settlement The buildings here remain – but little was open except the toilet blocks. I sat on a garden wall, enjoyed my packed lunch, and retied my boots before setting off again.
Valley of the Gorge The valley starts out wide enough, dwarfing the walkers picking their way over the rough rocky ground.
Walkers in the Canyon Soon, however, the canyon walls close in.
Walls of the Gorge The limestone and dolomite are carved by glacial action and other elements of time.
Afternoon Sun Walkers are warned to wear sunscreen and hats: the noon sun is hot on the bare stones.
Contrasts The early afternoon sun can no longer reach sections of the narrow canyon floor.
Slabs and Scree The landscape is rugged and still changing. In the winter months, the hike is closed due to the high risk of flash flooding along the Samaria River. Even in spring and autumn, waters can rise suddenly. In 1993, some walkers were washed out to sea and drowned.
Walkers on a Bridge As we approach the narrowest sections of the gorge, bridges keep our feet dry …
Water in a Weathered Cleft … and protect the pristine spring waters from pollution.
Nature’s Artworks : Water and Rock
Curving Walkway Autumn maples bend over the track
Winding through the Canyon The narrowest part of the gorge is 11.5 km (7.15 mi) in from the beginning at the north entrance.
In the “Gate” or the “Iron Gate” According to the official sign, the distance between the walls here is as little as three meters (10 ft), and they rise up to 300 meters.
Light at the end of the Canyon The canyon walls reduce in height, and the end is in sight.
Walk to Town There is a shuttle bus to Agia Roumeli, but there was a long queue and I would have had to wait at least a half hour. I must say the walk felt longer than it was!
I made it into town with time for a meal of stuffed vegetables and a well-earned glass of wine before I had to meet the ferry.
It is a stunningly beautiful area and I’m very glad I walked it.
Women in the Bay of Bengal A day at the beach has a whole different meaning in Pondicherry, the French Riviera of the East, in South India.
Puducherry / Pondicherry, in Peninsular India, is known for its colonial charm.
The colonial period there began in 1521 with the Portuguese – the first Europeans to conduct textile trade in the region. The Dutch and the Danes followed in the 17th century, but it was the French who had the most enduring influence after they built a settlement there in 1674. In spite of some back-and-forthing with other European powers, the region remained predominantly in French hands until 1954, when Puducherry and the other territories of French India were completely transferred to the Republic of India.
But the wide boulevards, some of the buildings, and many of the cultural influences, remain. Many roads and districts still have French names. Boutiques and cafés in the flower-lined streets and monuments along the promenade on the waterfront add to the colonial charm. No wonder this famous beach town is called the French Riviera of the East.
The region is also a spiritual haven: the city’s architectural monuments bear testament to the ongoing importance of imported Catholic practices alongside older Hindu and Muslim traditions. One of India’s most important ashrams, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, is tucked into the city streets, and the affiliated experimental township of Auroville (City of Dawn) is located nearby.
I was travelling with a small group across South India. On our first day in the Union Territory of Puducherry, we drove the short distance to Auroville to spend the morning visiting this fascinating experimental community. Founded in 1968 by the spiritual guru and yoga teacher, Mirra Alfassa, it is dedicated to the vision of Sri Aurobindo (1872 – 1950), Indian philosopher, yogi, maharishi, poet, journalist, and nationalist. It was he who first called Alfassa ‘La Mère’, The Mother; he considered her to be his yogic equal.
On our next day, we visited a local wet market (see: Morning in Goubert Market) and the historic Vedapureeswarer Temple and Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (see: Candy Coloured Temples and Churches), before being let loose to our own devices after lunch.
The Banyan Tree Banyan trees are regarded as sacred in India; this one is over 100 years old, and was defined as Auroville’s geographic centre after it was found on an otherwise barren plateau overlooking the Bay of Bengal.
Round Rocks – Round Tree The complex was conceived by Mirra Alfassa and designed by French architect, Roger Anger (1923 – 2008).
Taking in the Matrimandir The spiritual heart of Auroville is the Matrimandir, “a symbol of the Divine’s answer to man’s aspiration for perfection”.
Visitors to the Dome Visitors come from all over; only those who have sought permission ahead of time are allowed inside the Matrimandir and its immediate surrounds – where silence is maintained.
Water Lily – Nymphaeaceae – Wealth The Mother named 12 qualities and assigned a colour to each. She also assigned a spiritual significance to over 800 flowers. “True wealth is the wealth that one offers to the Divine.”
Orchid Tree – Bauhinia purpurea L. These are the flower of Hong Kong, and always bring to my mind the struggles there. The Mother defined butterfly-tree flowers as symbols of “Stability in the higher vital”.
Pondicherry Beach Our accommodation in Pondicherry’s French Quarter was wonderfully located: after lunch, I tumbled out the door and onto the famous beach.
Promenade Beach It is the middle of winter – but we are in the tropics, and average January temperatures range between lows of 22°C (71°F) and highs of 28°C (83°F). Even so, you won’t see nudity or skimpy bathing suits here!
Old Port Pier Locals are proud of their beach, but looking south towards the Old Port Pier, you can take in the litter left behind, and the thinning of the once-broad strip of sand that has suffered ongoing erosion in spite of attempts to save it.
Couple on the Rocks
Gandhi On Beach Road, the white granite structure sheltering the bronze statue of independence leader Mahatma Gandhi is partially obscured by nearby scaffolding.
Old Lighthouse A 29 m (95 ft) lighthouse, built in the 1830s, stands watch.
Jawaharlal Nehru Statue A statue to Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of Independent India stands on a pedestal nearby.
The Water Tank In Bharathi Park, young men gather around the shell-shaped reverse-osmosis water tank.
‘State Symbols Of Puducherry’ The park is delightful to walk around – and is interspersed with educational signboards.
Buddha and a Bodhi Tree
Couple on a Wooden Bench Back on the beach, more couples enjoy time on the waterfront.
Scooter in the Street Some of the terraces in the old town look tired and worn, but still elegant.
Shopping for Trinkets The area between the park and the beach is a mecca of sand toys, wind chimes, and other trinkets.
Clay Wind Chimes
Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple A 34 m (110 ft) tall five-tiered rajagopuram – the ornate monumental entrance gateway tower – leads into a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu.
Inside the Temple In the style typical of Dravidian temple architecture, the roofs of the shrines inside are colourfully decorated with stories of the Gods.
Painted Ceiling Colourful mandalas adorn the ceilings.
Bell Tower
Vishnu on a Dome
Immaculate Conception Cathedral Not far away, I come across the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception. Built in Portuguese-style in 1791 by French Jesuits, it is one of the city’s many different places of worship.
Nandi – Shiva’s Devotee Even away from the temples and churches, much of the art has a religious reference.
Rickshaws and Motorcycles
Although I was underwhelmed by the once-famous beach itself – the grey overcast of winter and the ubiquitous litter present everywhere in India probably coloured my view – I thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon walk appreciating the city’s architecture and history.
A Cairn on the Canyon Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’ at Jebel Shams is the second deepest canyon in the world – after the one in Arizona, USA.
I knew virtually nothing about Oman before travelling there – my aim was a long-awaited trip to Egypt (eg: Souvenirs of Egypt) and Jordan (eg: Postcards from Jordan), and I had the chance to tack another stop onto my journey.
Oman has a subtropical dry climate, and is defined as being 82 percent desert; given that it is tucked at the bottom of the Arabian Peninsula, I was expecting – and got – a magical desert sojourn (eg: Life in the Desert). The roads were smooth and straight, making touring easy. Once we were away from the rugged coastline, much of the landscape was rocky and flat, interspersed with date groves and forts. I visited a lot of forts! We had visited one that very morning (see: Jabreen Castle).
The remaining 15 percent of the country is mountainous. The Hajar range – running parallel to the northern coastline of Oman – is home to Jebel Shams (جَبَل شَمْس – Mountain of Sun), the country’s highest peak (3018 meters, 9902 feet), and the Al Nakhur (Al Nakhr) Canyon.
This canyon is also known as Wadi Nakhar, Wadi Ghul, and/or the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Arabia/Oman. It is well named! This gorge, which runs through the valley at the base of Jebel Shams and into the Western Hajar Mountains, is at least 500m (1640 ft) long, and up to 1,000m (3281 ft) deep. The top of Jebel Shams is home to a military installation, and access to that side of the canyon is restricted; the vantage point we drove to was on a high plateau opposite the mountain peak.
You can hike along the bottom of the Wadi Ghul / Wadi Nakhr gulley, or along the top on the 4km (2.5m) out-and-back Jebel Shams Balcony Walk (see: ZigZagonEarth Jebel Shams). Our driver gave us a short briefing and left us to our own devices at the top of the plateau, where I happily wandered taking photos.
Rocky Hillside from the Car Because of the brick construction of those buildings, I’m not sure if that is one of the abandoned villages in the area, or if it is still inhabited. This region was once home to dozens of remote mountain settlements, but in the early 2000s the Government of Oman moved most of the inhabitants to less remote locations.
Roadworks Most of the roads I traveled on in Oman were smooth bitumen highways. In this region, however, heavy annual rains destroy the road surface, so it is graded, but there is no effort to pave it in between seasons.
Nature’s Still Life Found Small shrubs cling to the granite boulders at the top of the lookout-plateau.
The Canyon The patterns and striations in the walls of the canyon are mesmerising.
Military Installation The white domes on the top of Jebel Shams are rather other-worldly.
Stripes Those layer of rock speak to the pressures of inconceivable time!
Overhanging Lookout Ledge There are no guard rails; …
People on Top … anyone with severe vertigo might want to re-think their visit.
Small Shrubs
Into Forever The canyon walls and the blue mountains float off into the distance, …
Patterned Rock … while the unique patterns on the rocks here on the plateau catch my attention.
Don’t Look Down! The wadi – a ravine or channel that is dry except in the rainy season – winds through the valley far below.
Slabs in the Sun
Cairn Against the Sky
An Otherworldly Landscape Powerlines run alongside the dirt road: the area is not completely isolated.
Tumbled Blocks
On the Track Goats mingle with the tourists on the rocky paths.
Men on the Lookout In one of the few fenced areas on the plateau …
Guides Chatting … local drivers catch up on the news.
Rocky Landscape When my travel companion and I have had our fill of the canyon rim, we drive back west – through more rocky terrain.
It is a stark, but beautiful landscape; this imposing gorge is well worth exploring.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Until next time,
It is a stark, but beautiful landscape; this imposing gorge is well worth exploring.
