Vegetables in the Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Colours in the Market
Even in the very early hours of morning, there is colour and movement everywhere you look in the Goubert Market in Old Pondicherry, India.

Any visitor to these pages knows I love markets.

I love the insight they give into the lives of the locals: What foods do they eat? How do they barter or trade? How do they engage with (or not!) the foreigner in their midst? How do they interact with each other? I love the apparent chaos: the cacophony of colours and smells; the crowded aisles and alleys; the constant motion; the noise …

Of course, it is only chaos to the outsider. When I stand back and watch, is is quite apparent that the locals all know what they are doing and where they should be. I am the one at risk of getting in the way.

I always marvel at how welcoming (and patient) stall holders are with this outsider trying to make pictures in the gloom, or under horrible fluorescent lights; I struggle with my heavy old cameras, trying to frame shots in impossible spaces and stay out of the way of shoppers and porters at the same time.

I’m never completely happy with the results, but I always hope to at least catch some of the essence of the experience.

Early one morning in January, I had the opportunity to spend some time in the historic Goubert Market in Heritage Town, Puducherry. I was staying nearby, in a beautiful colonial building in the heart of the French Quarter of what was, until 2006, known as Pondicherry. We had arrived the evening before from neighbouring Tamil Nadu, after stopping to explore the historic stone monuments at Mahabalipuram (see: Stories in Stone).

Originally called the Grand Bazaar, the market was established in 1826 under the French at the edge of the French Quarter. It was renamed for Édouard Goubert, who – in the early 1960s – was the mayor and first chief minister of Pondicherry. Popularly known as Periya Kadai (பெரிய கடை), which is Tamil for ‘big store’, it is one of the oldest markets in the city. Reputedly busy all day, almost everything you can think of is on offer, but it is especially known for its fresh fish from the Bay of Bengal.

We arrived early, and it was already bustling with activity.

Dark street, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Pondicherry Market
The sun is not yet up when we arrive before 7am at the already-bustling Goubert Market in Old Pondicherry.

Butchers, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Butcher
It is dark – very dark – inside. One report I read suggested that crumbling infrastructure was causing problems for the traders and customers alike (The Hindu). These butchers are working in rather questionable conditions.

Hessian bags of produce, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Onions in the Market
Every space is filled: big bags of fresh produce line the aisles.

Crowded market aisle, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Shopping in the Market
Shoppers jostle with vendors in the narrow laneways.

Baskets of produce, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Splashes of Colour
The saris are as colourful as the fruits and vegetables.

Betel shop, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Betel Shop
I’m always amazed at how everywhere you look in India, you see men reading the newspaper. The betel leaves for sale here are used to wrap paan or gutkha: a mixture of areca nut, herbs, spices, and often tobacco, for chewing.

Fresh silver fish, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Fresh Fish
We are on the Bay of Bengal, so the market features a variety of freshly-caught fish.

Woman in a green sari, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Woman in Green
Historically, it is the men who do the fishing here and the women who take care of the sales.

Two women seated at wooden cutting blocks, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Fish Vendors
Everyone has their posters or shrines to their favourite Gods decorated with fresh flowers.

Woman cutting fish, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Cutting Fish
That knife is serious business!

Woman peeling prawns, Goubert Market, Puducherry, Indi

Peeling Prawns
There is plenty to do, even when there are no immediate customers.

Seated fish vendors, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Women at the Fish Market

Woman selling prawns, Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

More Prawns – More Fish

Two women in saris seated in a crowded parking area outside Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Tea Break
Outside the covered market, a couple of women take a break.

Men with a tanker truck outside Goubert Market, Puducherry, India.

Water Truck?
I have no idea what is going on here, but I loved the look of these vehicles.

Man seated on the ground with hats for sale, Puducherry, India.

Selling Hats, Etc.
In the streets outside the market, more vendors attempt to make sales.

Man pouring coffee from a height, Puducherry, India.

Chai Wallah
Actually, the wallah here is making coffee, not tea, but the process is the same. I love watching how they pour the hot drinks from a height; it is meant to add froth and cool the milky liquid a bit.

Man with a cart laden with oranges, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Selling Oranges
Fresh fruit and vegetables are everywhere in the old streets.

Truck full of watermelon, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Watermelon Truck

Worn buildings, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Textured Buildings
We were meant to be admiring the Franco-Tamil architecture and the UNESCO-endorsed restorations in Vysial Street, but many more of the buildings were in need of a lot of work. I did love the textures and colours, though.

Cauliflower for sale, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Cauliflower for Sale
More fresh vegetables! Notice the QR code on the tree: you can pay by phone!

Parked shiny new scooters, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Candy-Coloured Scooters

Fruit and vegetables store, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

Corner Market
I love how the shops all spill onto the road!

Fruit and vegetable store, Heritage Town, Puducherry India

More Colour and Activity

Fish in coriander sauce, Palais de Mahe, Puducherry India

Fish in Coriander Sauce
After seeing all that fresh food on offer, it was only right that later on, our lunch was tasty fresh fish pieces in a fragrant and colourful coriander sauce.

Text: Bon Appétit

Until next time,

Bon appétit!

Pictures: 22January2023

View across False Creek from Fairview, Vancouver BC Canada

False Creek
With its numerous waterways, tall waterfront buildings, and a snow-dusted mountain backdrop, Vancouver is beautiful any time of year. But, cherry blossoms and fresh growth make spring special.

I was so grateful!

Vancouver is a beautiful city. and it has always had a magical place in my childhood, adolescent, and young-adult memories. For much of my young life I either lived nearby, or visited often.

Last year, I went back for the first time in many many years. And, although it was as special as I remembered, it was wet – even by coastal BC standards – and much of the time I was struggling with sodden shoes and an inside-out umbrella (see: A Wet Spring in Vancouver).

This year, however, the weather was beautiful!

I had jet-lag and a cold, but even so, I got out every day and felt happy as I wandered the nearby streets, taking pleasure in the many outdoor spaces on offer.

On a photographic note: I made the decision not to unpack the cameras until I had a car. Looking back on the photos now, I notice two things in particular: 1) because I generally take iPhone shots with the purpose of uploading onto iNstagram in square format (see: Ursula_in_Aus), I ‘see’ things differently with the phone than I do with the cameras. So, the photos often don’t translate terribly well to the 2×3 format that I prefer for the blog. And 2), as good as iPhone photos look on the device, when I’m processing them later in Lightroom, they don’t have the same depth and richness that DSLR camera photos have.

Still, wandering the streets in the sunshine made me smile – and I hope you do too!

Traffic on Cambie Street, Vancouver BC Canada

Cambie Street
Even on a nice spring day, there can be a fair bit of cloud obscuring those mountains to the north. 

Lawn Daisies, Vancouver BC Canada

Lawn Daisies – Bellis Perennis
As a child, I loved trying to make daisy chains with these tiny flowers. Although I have seen them in other parts of the world, they always say Vancouver to me. 

Cherry blossoms, Vancouver BC Canada

Cherry Blossoms
A Vancouver spring means pink blossoms on the 40,000-or-so cherry trees around the city.

Looking north over False Creek, Vancouver BC Canada

View over False Creek
Even with a typical low-hanging cloud, the high rises on the other side of False Creek stand out, and you get a sense of the mountains behind them. 

Cherry blossoms, Vancouver BC Canada

More Cherry Blossoms 

Canada geese and goslings, Vancouver BC Canada

Canada Geese and Goslings
What says spring like baby chicks? But a warning: a Canada goose (Branta canadensis) can be extremely aggressive if you get too close!

Burrard Street Bridge over False Creek, Vancouver BC Canada

Burrard Street Bridge
Built in the 1030s, this Art Deco style bridge is part of my memory landscape.

Fresh red and yellow capsicum, Granville Island Public Market, Vancouver BC Canada

Capsicum (or Red Pepper)
The Granville Island Public Market is a great place for lunch and coffee, for fresh foods, and for interesting art.

New maple leaves and flowers, Vancouver BC Canada

New Maple
Winters in Canada – even on the reasonably temperate West Coast – can be long; …

New conifer buds, Vancouver BC Canada

New Fir (or Spruce?)
… that is one of the reasons spring is such a joy.

View north from Little Mountain, Vancouver BC Canada.

Vancouver Harbour and North Vancouver
I made a point of visiting Little Mountain. Even though it sits at only 125 m (410 ft), you get great views over the rest of the city.

View over Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver BC Canada.

Queen Elizabeth Park
The gardens on Little Mountain are always a treat. I was especially pleased to recognise this location when I was watching the 1986 movie ‘The Boy Who Could Fly’ with my children in Australia.

Metal sculpture covered in locks, Vancouver BC Canada.

Love in the Rain (2016)
These quirky metal people by Bruce Voyce are billed as Vancouver Park Board’s first love lock sculpture.”

Entry to the VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Entry to the VanDusen Gardens
Even though this botanical garden opened in 1975, it was my first visit to the space. The beautiful wood and glass entry point and Visitor Centre was opened in 2011.

A pot of tulips, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Tulips
After a long walk to get there, I enjoyed a coffee, a baguette, and some people-watching before taking on the 22 hectare (55 acre) park.

Orange and Yellow tulips, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Orange and Yellow Tulips
I love spring bulbs – and these are gorgeous.

Fountain, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Fountain
With plenty of water features, the gardens are a delight to explore – especially on such a sunny, blue-sky day.

Sculpture of two stylised people, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Confidence (2012) by Michael Dennis
The gardens feature a number of sculptures; this beautiful work in red cedar was one of my favourites. Trails run off in all directions.

Pacific dogwood blossoms, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Pacific Dogwood
The blossom of western flowering dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) is the floral emblem of British Columbia – and another sign of spring.

Tulips and trees, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Tulips and Trees

Red tulips, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Red Tulips

Wooden owl next to a pathway, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Wooden Owl
Although this charming owl is frequently photographed, I couldn’t learn anything about its provenance.

Gitksan Totem Poles, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Gitksan Totem Poles
The Gitksan Totem Poles, on the other hand, have an explanatory sign next to them. These story poles are by Gitxsan Nation master-carvers. The Mosquito People (1986) on the left, is by Earl and Brian Muldoe and tells the origin story of mosquitoes.

Al of the Gispudwada (1976)
This story pole by Arthur Sterritt describes, in complex detail, the origin of the Black Bear Crest of the Orca Clan.

Waterfall, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Waterfall

Maidenhair and wood anemone, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Shaded Spaces
Maidenhair and wood anemone find a shaded spot beneath the trees, …

Wooden bench on a pathway, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Wooden Bench
… and dappled light plays across a wooden bench.

Green grass aside a small stream, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Stream and Garden

Giant red wooden chairs, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Red Chairs

Pink bleeding heart flowers, VanDusen Gardens, Vancouver BC Canada.

Bleeding Heart – Dicentra Spectabilis
This is one of those plants that lends itself to flights of imagination!

Cars driving north on Lions Gate bridge, Vancouver BC Canada.

Lions Gate Bridge
Unfortunately, I couldn’t stay in the city forever. Heading north over the Lions Gate always signals that I am leaving Vancouver behind.

Text: Keep smiling

Blue skies (mostly), sunshine, and spring flowers in the beautiful city of Vancouver – it doesn’t get much better, and it certainly had me filled with gratitude …

And Smiling!

Photos: 09-12May2023

Scaramella Semibastion, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Scaramella Semibastion
The beautiful colours of the Mediterranean Sea belie the long and painful history of Spinalonga in Crete: once a Venetian fortress and later a leper colony.

I fell in love with Crete.

Greece’s southernmost district, Crete is the country’s largest and most populous island. Nestled between the Aegean and Libyan Seas, it is home to a magnificent coastline and beautiful beaches (eg: Preveli Beach). Populated since time immemorial, there is evidence of human settlement as early as 130,000 years ago. Buildings and ruins date across civilizations (eg: Rethymnon and Lasithi), and even enter into mythology (see: The Minotaur, Mythology, and an Ancient Palace).

What was even greater for me as a solo-traveler staying a bit off the beaten track without a car was that the guided bus trips around the island were a reasonable price! Of course, it is a big island, and I couldn’t see everything, but I did my best to pack in as much as I could.

My third Orange Travel bus tour took me to Spinalonga, a rocky island off the east coast of Crete’s Lasithi Prefecture.

Originally fortified by the Cretans to protect the city of Olous – now sunken ruins under Elounda Bay – the island became deserted in the 7th century following repeated raids across the Mediterranean by Arab pirates.

The Venetians took charge of Crete in 1204. By the mid-15th century, they began to construct salt-pans in the shallow and salty waters around the area of Elounda. The consequential commercial importance of this eastern region, and the rising threat of Turkish invasion, led the Venetians to hire an engineer – Genese Bressani – in 1578 to plan the fortification of Spinalonga.

It is the remains of these magnificent fortifications that give the barren island its distinctive appearance today.

In 1715, the Ottoman Turks captured Spinalonga, thereby taking over the last remaining Venetian fortress in Crete, and remained on the island until 1903 – long after the Christian Cretan insurgents had regained the rest of Crete. From that time until 1957, Spinalonga was used as a leper colony. When the identification of the mycobacteria causing leprosy finally led to effective treatments, people were no longer isolated in the same way, and the only resident remaining on the island was a Greek Orthodox priest. He stayed there until 1962 to observe the Orthodox rituals of commemorating all buried people at regular periods after their death.

Our guide accompanied us through the old village, giving us detailed explanations of the architecture and usage – most of which I have forgotten – before setting us loose. I used my free time to walk around the battlements along the island perimetre, where I admired the contrasts of the rough building stones and the arid, rocky landscape with the jewelled hues of the surrounding sea. 

Join me!

Tourist Boat, town of Plaka behind, Crete Greece.

Tourist Boat – Plaka
Tourist boats for Spinalonga leave from the coastal towns of Agios Nikolaos, Elounda, and Plaka.

Ticket salesman in a booth, Plaka, Crete Greece.

Ticket Salesman
We originally got off our bus in Elounda, only to be told the waters on that side were not good and we would meet our boat in Plaka. The boat was not there when we arrived, giving me time to people-watch, …

Spinalonga across the water and rocks from Plaka, Crete Greece.

Spinalonga on the Horizon
… to explore the Plaka waterfront, and to try to get a feel for that rocky island not far away.

Boat Archangelos on the waters off Plaka, Crete Greece.

Archangelos Coming In
Finally! Our pretty little boat arrives, …

Tourists boarding the boat Archangelos, Plaka, Crete Greece.

Getting on Archangelos
… and our busload boards.

Prow of a tourist boat and Spinalonga, Crete Greece.

Prow toward Spinalonga
Eventually we set off …

The Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga from the water, Crete Greece.

Those Colours!
… and the impressive Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga comes closer.

Plaka as seen from Spinalonga, Crete Greece.

Looking Back
Plaka nestles into the hillside behind us.

Door and windows onto a room full of tourists in Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Doors and Windows
Inside the fortress site, doors, windows, and archways lead off in all directions.

Lines and shadows over an arched doorway, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Lines and Shadows
Parts of the village have been renovated over the years, first by the Ottoman, and later by the leper community.

Stairs around a courtyard, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Stairs and Courtyard

Empty windows framing a roofless room with prickly pear growing, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Prickly Pear
Some drought-hardy plants survive amid the ruins.

Fig growing on a stairway, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Ancient Tree

Tour guide with her arm in a sling, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Eva
Our guide was a bit of a character!

Archway onto a courtyard full of tourists in Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Corridors through Ancient Stones

Wood and stone inside Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Greenery Takes Hold
Contrasts and textures are everywhere.

Roofless rooms with dry grasses growing, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Old Layers
Light and heat work their way into the old roofless rooms.

Wooden beams over a stairway, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Lines and Shadows and Beams

Historic Venetian tiles in a museum, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Historic Venetian Tiles

Rooms and walkways, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Inside the Ruins
The honeycomb of stairways and half-ruined walls seems to be endless.

Man on a ladder, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Mason
The work to keep the ruins upstanding …

Man on a bench, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Workman at Rest
… is relentless and tiring.

Outside the fortress walls, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Outside the Fortress Walls

Ruined rooms and walls, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Old Homes

Wheelbarrow in the ruins of Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Tools of the Trade

Tour guide with her arm in a sling, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Our Guide at Rest

Watch tower, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Watch Tower
Spinalonga is a seaward bastion-type fortress. The fortified walls, which once housed 35 cannons, were so well built that today it is considered one of the best-preserved fortresses in the Mediterranean Sea.

Buildings on the rugged hillside of Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Colourful Rocks
The landscape is indeed rugged, and the buildings here on the east side of the island blend in. At the top of one hill, the round Mezzaluna Barbariga keeps watch; further down, the plain-looking, later-built, Church of St Georgios keeps the faith.

Turquoise waters off the battlements of Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Waters off the Battlement
In the other direction, the fortress walls stand against the Mediterranean.

Church of St Georgios, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Church of St Georgios
As I walk back up the hill, the plain design of the Greek Orthodox church, built around 1661, is more evident. The inside is equally simple.

Leper cemetery on Donato Bastion, Spinalonga, Crete Gree

Leper Cemetery on Donato Bastion
Spinalonga was one of the last active leper colonies in Europe. Near the church, a leper cemetery was constructed on the old Venetian Donato Bastion.

Tourist boats, Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Boats Waiting
As I rounded the last bend, I could see tour boats below: I had just enough time for a coffee and a comfort stop …

Travel operator counting passengers onto a boat: Spinalonga, Crete Greece

Counting Passengers
… before being counted back onto the Archangelos for the journey back.

Tour boat heading back to Plaka, Crete Greece

Boat Returning to Plaka
Ours is not the only tour boat heading to the main island.

The Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga from the water, Crete Greece.

Spinalonga from the Water
I appreciate that marvelous Venetian fortress so much more now, after exploring some of its nooks and crannies.

In 1970 the island was declared as a protected archaeological site, and in 2014 it was submitted (so far, without success) for World Heritage Listing.

Text: Stay Well - Ursula

With its magnificent landscape, architecture, and unique history, the island is definitely worthy of attention and protection. 

Here’s hoping none of us have to go through what those with leprosy endured!

 

Photos: 06September2022

A pelican with an open beak, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Australian Pelican (Pelecanus Conspicillatus)
Animals are SO improbable!

“A funny old bird is a pelican.
“His beak can hold more than his belican.
Food for a week
“He can hold in his beak,
“But I don’t know how the helican.”

– Dixon Lanier Merritt

I do love a good zoo!

I especially love zoos where the enclosures are respectful of the animals, their habitats, and of the visitors who come to see them and learn about them. Unlike some of the zoos of the past, modern organisations put a lot of energy into research and animal welfare, as well as education and conservation. They design enclosures that connect people with nature while allowing the animals to be sufficiently stimulated and comfortable with being on public view.

I enjoy visiting zoos in different places: they offer the opportunity for a lovely walk in a semi-natural space. I  always marvel at how different localities have approached the design problems of managing limited room and turning it into suitable climate zones for their animal populations. Balancing aesthetics, safety, animal comfort, and visitor engagement is a constantly evolving field.

Naturally, I usually take my cameras wherever I visit. It amazes me how bizarre and different various animals are, and I’m always on the lookout for their defining colours, textures, and patterns (see: Teeth, Claws, and Colourful Patterns or A Tale of Two Tarongas).

Many years ago, my husband and I spent some time in Adelaide, South Australia, and used the occasion to visit the Adelaide Zoo, ‘one of Adelaide’s most iconic attractions … [and] home to more than 2,500 animals and 250 species. Over the years I’ve returned to the photo-set many times – so many times that Lightroom has had frequent upgrades in the interim – but have never quite pulled it all together.

Until now.

Join me in marvelling at some weird and wonderful natural decorations.

Downtown Adelaide buildings reflected in each other, SA Australia

Almost Abstract : The City Reflected
Patterns seemed to be the theme of this particular Adelaide visit: even on our morning walks, it was the geometric shapes and urban abstracts that caught my eye. (iPhone4S)

Cones and leaves of the Wollemi pine against a white sky, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Prehistoric Trees Overhead
Critically-endangered and legally protected Wollemi pine trees (Wollemia nobilis) are members of the 200-million-year-old Araucariaceae family. Described as a living fossil, prior to their rediscovery in 1994, the trees were only known through fossil records that date about two million years old.

Close up of spotted park on a gum tree, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Nature’s Artwork : Magnificent Bark
All the trees around us have a style of their own. I think this eucalyptus is a spotted gum (Corymbia maculata).

Pale lily in the Lily House, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pale Water Lily – Nymphaea sp
Our first stop was in the Lily House; …

Pale lily in the Lily House, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

In the Lily House
… I’ve always loved delicate-looking but hardy water lilies.

Capybara, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Capybara – Hydrochoerus Hydrochaeris
I first saw greater capybara in their native South America. Just from the posture of this giant rodent, you can get a sense of their enormous size: they grow up to 1.3 metres (4.3 feet) long and can weigh up to 79 kg (174 pounds).

A giant panda, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Panda Dreaming
Adelaide is the only place in the southern hemisphere to house – in specially built enclosures – giant pandas (Ailuropoda melanoleuca).

A giant panda, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Inside – Outside : Panda Reflected
 The Chinese government loaned Wang Wang and Fu Ni to Adelaide Zoo in 2009 as part of a global giant panda breeding program. So far, there has been no luck in producing babies. 

Emu portrait, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Emu – Dromaius Novaehollandiae
Emus are fascinating-looking creatures. Their fluffy feathers feature a unique double plume: emu and their cousins the cassowary are the only birds in the world that have two feathers of the same length originating from the one quill.

Tasmanian devil, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Tasmanian Devil – Sarcophilus Harrisii
It is hard to photograph these feisty little endangered balls of furry energy: they are rarely still for long. Although they only grow to five to 14 kilograms (11 to 30 pounds), with their sharp, shearing teeth and powerful jaws, they are the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial.

Bush Thick Knee, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Bush Thick Knee – Burhinus Grallarius
Also called bush stone-curlews, these distinctive long-legged shorebirds are endemic to Australia.

Pelicans on a pond, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pelican Pond
We arrived at the pelican pond just before feeding time; …

A pelican in profile, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pelican Portrait
… that gave me the chance for a closer look at the textures in that extraordinary beak with its hook, and the bird’s feathers.

Pelicans in an enclosure, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Pelicans Feeding
The birds were too fast for me to catch the flying fish thrown by the keepers …

Pelicans in an enclosure, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Those Bills!
… but I did get to marvel at those amazing beaks!

Little wattlebird, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Little Wattlebird – Anthochaera Chrysoptera
Zoos always attract local, non-captive visitors.

Two little penguins, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Little Penguins – Eudyptula Minor
It may well be anthropomorphising, but there is something about the antics of the native-Australian fairy penguins that always makes me smile!

Portrait: a black alpaca, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Those Eyes! Those Lashes!!
Domesticated thousands of years ago for their wonderful wool, the faces of South American alpaca (Lama pacos) have to be part of their appeal.

African wild dog, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

African Wild Dog – Lycaon Pictus
That is the shade of perspex between us and the painted dogs; today they roam wild(er) in the affiliated Monarto Safari Park.

Malayan tapir, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Malayan Tapir- Tapirus Indicus
Endangered in the wild, Asian tapirs are the only tapir species outside of the Americas – and with their three back toes and long proboscis definitely qualify as odd-looking and unique!

Green frog in a man

Frog with a Reptile Keeper
We made a point of arriving at the reptile house in time for the keeper presentation. I didn’t take notes, but I think this is a magnificent tree frog (Ranoidea splendida).

Blue-tongued skink in a man

Blue-Tongued Skink
Every Australian is familiar with the friendly blue tongue lizard (Tiliqua scincoides).

Yellow corn snake in a man

Yellow Corn Snake – Pantherophis Guttatus
These colourful beauties, on the other hand, are dangerous invaders, and are illegal to import or own domestically.

Magpie-lark, Adelaide Zoo, Australia

Magpie-Lark – Grallina Cyanoleuca
As we are leaving, we come across another pretty little uncaged native bird.

It was a most enjoyable way of spending a few hours.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 08February2014

View across the Jordan River Valley from Mount Nebo.

Across the Jordan River Valley
From Mount Nebo in Jordan’s Abarim mountains, one has extensive views over the dry and rugged landscape that is the backdrop to some ancient bible stories.

It is a truly biblical landscape.

Referenced in the Old Testament, it was on this rocky desert terrain that the Hebrew prophet, teacher, and leader Moses walked, gave sermons, and ultimately died.

Moses is considered the most important prophet in Judaism and one of the most important personages in Christianity, Islam, and other Abrahamic religions. He reputedly led his people out of slavery. He is credited with writing the Torah (the first five books of the Hebrew Bible) and is said to have received the Ten Commandments from God at Mt. Sinai. Here at Mount Nebo, God putatively granted Moses a view of the Promised Land before his death.

And what a view it is!

On a clear day, you can see across the Jordan River Valley and the Dead Sea to the Palestinian city of Hebron, and to Herodium, which is now an archaeological site named for the palace of King Herod. You can see Bethlehem and Jerusalem and Jericho; familiar names to anyone raised in the Judeo-Christian traditions. You can see Lake Tiberias, perhaps better known as the Sea of Galilee, where much of the ministry of Jesus took place. Later, the Crusaders conquered cities and built castles here (see: Shobak Montreal Castle)

You don’t have to look as far, or as far back as that, to appreciate the magnificent mosaics found here. Housed on Mount Nebo in the archaeological remains of the Byzantine Basilica Memorial Church of Moses, mosaics dating from around 530 CE feature patterns, religious symbols, plants, and animals. In the nearby town of Madaba, the Greek Orthodox Saint George’s Church contains an extraordinary mosaic map depicting Jerusalem and the Holy Lands that was crafted between 542 and 570 CE.

Even when looking across the almost barren, almost boundless land, it is hard to fathom the layers of time and the momentous events that have taken place here, and grown into such legends, told and retold.

Sign outside the Memorial of Moses, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Memorial of Moses
The Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land has owned this site since 1932, so it is technically Vatican property. Over the years, extensive excavations, surveys, and preservation programs have been undertaken by archaeologists affiliated with Franciscan study institutes (see: The Memorial Church of Moses).

Mosaic of a peacock in a grapevine, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Mosaic from Khirbet al-Mukhayyat (the City of Nebo)
Dated to 565 CE, this is one of the extensive mosaics found in the nearby the Church of St. George, and moved here to the Mount Nebo Memorial access area. This peacock in a grapevine medallion is one of many animals depicted, alongside portraits of the benefactors: that is John, son of Ammonius, in the top right corner.

Structure over the excavated church remains, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Protecting the Excavated Church Remains
The original church here was built in the second half of the 4th century. Modern exploration of the site began in 1863. When the Franciscans took over, they built a shelter over the archaeological remains to protect them. This one was renovated between 2016 and 2019 CE.

People posing on the rolling stone, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Rolling Stone – the Fortified Door
In the forecourt, a rolling stone found nearby at Faysaliyah (Kufer Abu Badd) has been mounted. Tourists and pilgrims are everywhere: Mount Nebo was designated a Millennium 2000 pilgrimage site by the Vatican.

View across the Jordan River Valley from Mount Nebo.

Across the Jordan River Valley

The Brazen Serpent sculpture, Mount Nebo, Jordan

The Brazen Serpent
This stunning sculpture by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni represents the serpent mentioned in the book of Numbers, entwined with the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.

Patterned mosaic, Diakonikon-Baptistery, Mount Nebo, Jordan

Patterned Mosaic
In the northern hall of the basilica, this patterned mosaic was covering (and protecting) an earlier one, which was found about a meter below.

Diakonikon-Baptistery mosaic central section, Mount Nebo, Jordan

Central Mosaic
Tiled circa 530, the incredible Byzantine mosaic floor in the Diakonikon-Baptistery covered an area of 9 x 3 m. This central section, framed by a chain-style ornamental border, depicts hunting and pastoral scenes.

Stained glass windows in the Modern Church of Moses, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Stained Glass
There are three stained glass windows in the apse of Modern Church of Moses; the middle one shows Moses standing under the Brazen Serpent with his siblings, Aaron and Miriam.

Wall-mounted mosaic sample in the Theotokos Chapel, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Mosaic Sample in the Theotokos Chapel

Signboard pointing to visible places in the Holy Land, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Those Names!
A sign shows the direction to various locations in the Holy Land: Bethlehem is only 50 km (31 m) away.

Ruined columns, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Bits and Columns
Excavations and restorations continue.

The rolling stone, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

The Abu Badd – The Rolling Stone
We seem to have outlasted other visitors to the site, and as we make our way back out, I get a chance to photograph that extraordinary Byzantine monastery door without people all over it!

The Book of Love sculpture, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

Sculpture by Vincenzo Bianchi
Back at the site entry, I have time for a better look at the monolithic sculpture inscribed “Unus Deus, Pater Omnium, Super Omnes” (One God, The Father Of All, Above all).

Back detail of The Book of Love sculpture, Mount Nebo, Jordan.

‘Book of Love Among Nations’
The monument by Vincenzo Bianchi was erected in honor of the visit of Pope John-Paul II in March, 2000. The back is inscribed with author’s names.

Shop awnings on a city street, Madaba Jordan

City Street
It’s a short drive down the hill to Madaba; we get a glimpse of the shops along the way.

Church of Saint George in the trees, Madaba Jordan.

The Church of Saint George
Our next stop is at the Greek Orthodox Saint George’s Church in Madaba.

Church of Saint George doorway, Madaba Jordan.

Saint George’s Church
Built between 1894 and 1897, it has simple lines.

Mosaic map, Madaba Jordan.

Mosaic Map
The church’s simple structure is not its principal drawcard: St George is also called the Church Of The Map. This mosaic map, found in 1894 when the church was being reconstructed, was made between 542 and 570. It the largest mosaic map in the world and the oldest map of Palestine on record. About a quarter of the original two million pieces of coloured stone survive in place.

Signboard explaining the mosaic map, the Church of Saint George, Madaba Jordan.

The Mosaic Map Explained
Although the map is detailed and very accurate, it can be hard for us to interpret. It was not designed as a practical road map for pilgrims, instead, it is a complex work of Christian art with layers of embodied meaning.

The Apse inside the Church of Saint George, Madaba Jordan.

The Apse inside St George

Mosaic depiction of Mary and Jesus, the Church of Saint George, Madaba Jordan.

“Virgin and Child”

Mary As A Well Of Life and St Nicholas icons, St. George

“Mary As A Well Of Life” and “St Nicholas”
I’m guessing the mosaics and paintings of icons and saints that adorn the inside of the church are much more recent than the map floor – but I could find no information on most of them.

Rugs for sale, Madaba street, Jordan

Rugs for Sale
After a morning of biblical history, it was nice to come back to the present, and admire the local craftsmanship.

Ceramic coasters on display in a Madaba shop, Jordan.

Ceramics for Sale
Naturally, tourists are targeted, …

Nuts and seeds in shop display baskets, Madaba Jordan.

Nuts and Seeds for Sale
… but everyday items are available as well.

Portrait: Jordanian shopkeeper, Madaba

Shopkeeper
I’m happy to settle for a local smile.

The exquisite craftsmanship that went into making those intricate mosaics of the past continues now: Madaba is the hub of mosaic-making in Jordan today and is known as “The City of Mosaics”.

Text: Happy Travels

But, it was the history that blew me away.

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 18October2019