.jpg) A Lonely Pine
A single pine dominates the graveyard in front of the Lone Pine Memorial – which stands on the site of the fiercest fighting of the eight-month long WWI Gallipoli campaign. The memorial commemorates the more than 4,900 Australian and New Zealand servicemen who died on the Gallipoli Peninsula during the engagement. “There never was a good war, or a bad peace.”
– Benjamin Franklin (July 27, 1983)
Last Tuesday was ANZAC Day: a national day of remembrance in Australia and New Zealand that commemorates those “who served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations” and their contribution and suffering. The date, however, was specifically chosen to immortalise the landing of ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps) forces at Gallipoli, Turkey (Gelibolu, Türkiye) on April 25th, 1915.
This was a tragic campaign in the already-bloody First World War.
By the end of 1914 stalemate had taken hold on Western and Eastern Fronts. Allied thinking was that if they controlled the Dardanelles, also known as the Strait of Gallipoli, they could capture Constantinople (now Istanbul), and force Turkey out of the war.
Unfortunately, they seem to have forgotten a British Committee of Imperial Defense study in 1906, ruling that the fortifications and potential threat of mines in this very narrow strait made attacking by ship a dangerous mission. They also underestimated their enemy who were defending their own home soil. The naval attacks failed: one French battleship was hit by shore battery fire and had to withdraw; another was capsized, with the loss of almost all on board; civilian-manned minesweepers retreated under Ottoman fire; three British Royal Navy ships were damaged – with two sinking; two further French battleships were damaged and forced to retreat; and two Allied submarines were lost to mines and strong currents.
Plans to overpower the Turkish defences on land, opening the way for Allied ships, began.
The Mediterranean Expeditionary Force of around 70,000 men was formed comprising the 29th Division (British Infantry), the ANZACs, the Royal Naval Division, British Territorial Army units, a small contingent of Indian Army soldiers, some Newfoundlanders, and a French division – all led by General Sir Ian Hamilton. Postponed to 25 April due to bad weather, the landings were to be made at five beaches on Gallipoli Peninsula.
The maps were inadequate and virtually nothing went to plan.
For example: the ANZACs were landed about a mile further north than intended, into what can only be described as a defender’s paradise. Instead of the wide flats at Gaba Tepe, they were faced with the steep cliffs of what is now known as ANZAC Cove. The fierce Ottoman counterattacks were organized by Mustafa Kemal – later known as Atatürk, the founding father and first president of the Republic of Turkey.
Conditions were dreadful: there was a lack of water and nowhere to dispose of waste or bury the dead. In some places, trenches were barely four metres apart: trenches where soldiers were tormented by thirst, debilitated by dysentery, and plagued by flies and lice. Although the Allied troops made some advances, it finally became clear to those higher up that this was too costly an operation – especially after Serbia and Bulgaria joined Germany, allowing a direct railway connection into Turkey itself, meaning the Ottomans could easily be resupplied.
After a November visit by Lord Kitchener, the decision was finally made to evacuate. Ironically, that is the only part of the disastrous campaign that seems to have gone smoothly. By 20 December 1915, the ANZACs were evacuated, and other Allied forces soon followed.
Today you can walk around these fateful hills where so many young men lost their lives. There are 31 Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) cemeteries on the Gallipoli Peninsula, one French cemetery at Seddülbahir, and numerous Ottoman/Turkish memorials. Both the Australians and the Turks see this as an important place: Turkish Gallipoli Martyrs are as important to the Turkish national identity as the stories of Australian and New Zealander courage, sacrifice, and nationhood are to the ANZAC legend.
.jpg) Scenes from a Bus : The 1915 Çanakkale Bridge
The Gallipoli Peninsula is about a three hour drive east of Istanbul. On the European continent, it is separated from the Asian part of Türkiye to the south by the Dardanelles, a narrow strait (between 1.2 and 6 kilometres (0.75 to 3.73 mi) wide). This area was known for its rich history long before its strategic importance in World War I.
This bridge, at the eastern end of the peninsula near the Sea of Marmara, is about 5 kilometres (3.1 miles) long. (iPhone12Pro) .jpg) Scenes from a Bus : Bunker on the Beach
This spot on the Aegean Sea looks idyllic, until you see the bunkers: a stark reminder of past wars. (iPhone12Pro)  The Sphinx Overlooking Anzac Cove
What a catastrophic place for a landing! Once you manage to climb over the rocky beach, this ridge shadows you. ANZAC Cove
The Australian, New Zealand, and Turkish governments have joined forces to conduct the Gallipoli field survey, to develop important sites, and to manage special commemorations and increasing visitor numbers. Beach at ANZAC Cove
I always think of ‘beach’ as sand: this is far from it. The cove is 600 metres long, bounded by the headlands of Arıburnu to the north and Little Arıburnu, known as Hell Spit, to the south. On April 25th 1915, 16,000 Australians and New Zealanders – most of whom had never seen combat – landed here. By that evening, 2,000 of them had been killed or wounded. Rocks in ANZAC Cove Reading the Information
Established in 1973 by the Turkish government, and included in the United Nations list of of National Parks and Protected Areas, the Gallipoli Peninsula Historical Site covers over 33,000 hectares. A rundown of the events at ANZAC Cove are laid out here in English and Turkish. The Memorial at ANZAC Cove
“Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives … You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours … You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.”
Dated 1934 and attributed to Atatürk, there is no evidence he wrote – or even spoke – these words. Still, they reflect a mutual respect, for which there are many corroborated examples. Among The Fallen – 740 Private Peter A Smith Musulman Soldier of the British Army, 860 Driver Husain Khan Azmak Cemetery
Named for the watercourse nearby, this cemetery has 1074 First World War servicemen buried or commemorated; 684 of the burials are still unidentified. Respect to Mehmetçik Monument
‘Mehmetçik’ (or Mehmet) is a colloquial term for Turkish Army soldiers. There is a story of a Turk raising a white flag in order to deliver a wounded Australian officer back to his own lines – this sculpture by artist Tankut Öktem depicts that story. The Lone Pine Memorial
This memorial stands at the east end of the cemetery, on what was a strategically important plateau overlooking the whole May 1915 front line. So Many Fallen …
The memorial commemorates more than 4,900 Australian and New Zealand servicemen who died in the ANZAC area and whose graves are not known, as well as others who died at sea and were buried in the waters off Gallipoli. Lone Pine Cemetery
The battlefield was named for a solitary Aleppo pine that stood there at the start of the fighting. The land had been forested, but the other trees were cut by Turkish troops for their trenches. Stone Pine – Pinus pinea
The original tree did not survive the fighting, but it was such an evocative symbol that at least two Australian soldiers took cones from it back home. Today, you will see descendents of that pine in many Australian war cemeteries. This one, on the other hand, is a different species. Pines in the Trenches
Planted pines dot some of the remaining trenches. (iPhone12Pro) Curved Memorial New Zealand Memorial at Chunuk Bair Mustafa Kemal Pasha (Atatürk) Tribute to Turkish Soldiers Respect History Monument and Park
A short distance away in the town of Eceabat, a large park features several depictions of the battlegrounds. Respect History Monument
A large bronze statue in the park includes the Respect to Mehmetçik motif. Çanakkale in Afternoon Light
As if to lighten the heavy weight of history, the sun broke through the clouds over the the city of Çanakkale as we crossed the Dardanelles by ferry from Eciabat. It was a costly campaign: numbers vary widely, but the losses were enormous on all sides. One estimate is that more than 130,000 died: at least 87,000 Ottoman soldiers, and 44,000 Allied forces, including more than 8700 Australians and 2779 New Zealanders.
It was meant to be the war to end all wars.
Which, of course, it wasn’t (see: For the ANZACs; War and Pieces).
Photos: 17October2022
Posted in Memorial,Military,TurkeyTags: ANZAC,landscape,memorial,Military,Photo Blog,remembrance,sculpture,Travel Blog,Turkey,Türkiye,war
I woke up with my fingers crossed.
All night long the rain had thundered on my roof. I live a short distance from Pambula, and I could only hope that the Ephemeral Festival there that day, on the Panboola Wetlands, would go ahead. It wouldn’t be the first time the whole site had been flooded out!
But, the Autumn day dawned crisp and clear – albeit with gale-force winds blowing off the coast. When I arrived at the venue, it was already busy with volunteers and stall-holders setting up.
Ephemeral is a festival that draws artistic inspiration from the rich and layered natural surroundings. Local artists – visual artists, musicians, crafts-people, story-tellers, and dance performers – come out and showcase their skills and/or conduct workshops using the wetlands as their muse. The last time I attended, I enjoyed it thoroughly (see: A Celebration of Impermanence).
Panboola itself is a wonderful 82 hectare reserve on a floodplain adjoining the northern section of Beowa National Park (formerly Ben Boyd National Park). It is bordered by the Pambula River, and encompasses an old racecourse – which is now a delightful walking/cycling circuit; thickets of mangroves and saltmarsh; farmlands which are sustainably managed and help provide income for reserve maintenance costs; and billabongs where waterbirds like black swans and moorhens wander and nest and raise their young.
The property around the old racecourse was/is Crown Land. Much of the rest was bought by local environmentalist Alexandra Sedden (more about her later) as a waterbird sanctuary and gifted to the community in a Conservation Trust. Over the years, parcels of land have been added by other local benefactors. The whole property is now managed by the Pambula Wetlands and Heritage Project Inc. and maintained by an army volunteers who meet weekly to plant, or weed, or mow – or whatever else needs doing.
It is always a lovely place to be – but is extra special during celebrations. Do come along!
Entry to Tips Billabong
The gazebos are up and the chairs are out: the festival grounds are ready to welcome participants. Garment Glow-Up Bar
Botanical artist Ge Warburton and visual artist Hilary Peterson joined forces to facilitate a fabric-stamping booth. For a small fee, participants could colour their own fabrics, or buy a piece of clothing or a blank tea-towel to stamp with ready-cut patterns. Both women have run immensely popular workshops at Panboola in the past, so I was keen to see how this one would fare. (Spoiler alert: It was busy all day!) Puppet Theatre
Small knitted finger puppets in the shape of Australian native animals were on hand for some free creative play. Dried Flowers
It is a testament to our local creatives – and to the festival organisers – that both sessions of the Floral Wreath Workshop sold out! Two local flower-growers, Trish Castillo of Wyndham Flower Farm and Karyn Mumberson from BourndaGrow, supplied the materials and the advice for participants. Selecting Flowers
The participants selected their dried flowers with care … Making Wreaths
… before attaching them to the supplied wreath forms. Floral Wreath
The second workshop, in the afternoon, was just as popular. Warming up the Story Tree
Meanwhile, the Story Tree is ready. Cake and Coffee
The local Rotary Club and Country Women’s Association are on hand with food. Drink Stand
My priority is always coffee! Little Hands
The Garment Glow-Up Bar is busy; … Ge Warburton
… Ge hangs up the newly patterned works to dry in the wind … Hilary Peterson
… and Hilary cleans the stamps between customers. Showing off the T-Shirt
Later in the day, I found a young person (and their parent ) who was happy to show off their finished product. Egg Hunt
Colourfully-costumed children’s performers, Latvian Independence Day, lead families on an ‘egg hunt’. Panboola volunteers hid pre-painted stones around the grounds at intervals – these could be exchanged for chocolate eggs. Applying Henna
For a gold donation to the Wetlands, you could get a henna tattoo; … Henna Design
… like the theme of the festival, the designs are beautiful – and impermanent. Beautiful Baskets
These crafts-people possess a wealth of skill and knowledge about local materials and ancient techniques … Basket Weaving
… and happily share that with anyone interested. Hands at Work
Here, a young couple is being shown how to build a firm base for a basket. Potoroo Palace Information Table
Potoroo Palace is a local not-for-profit public animal sanctuary, dedicated to art, education, and helping injured and/or orphaned native wildlife. Alexandra Seddon
Alexandra, the founder and patron of Potoroo is also one of the principal benefactors of the Panboola Wetlands. Her story, as told on the ABC’s Conversations radio program, is a truly remarkable one. Chair in the Air The Moorhen and Fling Theatre
The youth and children of Fling Physical Theatre put on two expressive dance performances – centred around a giant, wafty moorhen. Frida the Moorhen
Moorhens (Gallinula chloropus) are the signature logo of the Panboola Wetlands; this one has been named Frida after the Mexican painter. Children of Fling
In floating capes resembling butterfly wings … Fling Theatre
… the children swooped and wove around the performance space. Kate Liston-Mills
A local mum, journalist, and author settles in under the Story Tree … Room on the Broom
… for a dramatic reading of a children’s favourite picture book. Catching Dreams New Moon Spoons
Local woodcarver Paul Boyer is on hand to teach skills, sell products, or just chat. Paul Boyer The Bird Comes to Life
Art therapist Bella Insch of Pambula’s Brush with Clay Studio ran a workshop on hand-building clay. I popped in regularly to watch the objects take shape. Quiet Moments – Stacking Blocks Panboola Stand
These are the linchpins: Wetlands Project Coordinator Michelle Richmond chats with volunteers selling products and dispensing information at the Panboola Stand. Fallen Orb
Nothing lasts forever! In the afternoon, the winds picked up, causing damage to several of the marquis and knocking this beautiful flowered orb off its pedestal. Mural on the Old Bar
As the day drew to a close, I went in search of a resident barn owl who had been spotted in the trees here. The only owl I found was on the mural attached to the Old Bar: this was painted by local children under the guidance of artist Terri Tuckwell at the last major celebration: Panboola’s Anniversary (see: Happy Anniversary, Panboola Wetlands).
It was a very full day – which is why I had trouble limiting the photos I wanted to share!
But, as long as it was, it was a day full of creativity, goodwill, and smiles.
I’m already looking forward to the next festival.
Until then, I’ll go back to pulling invasive weeds …
Pictures: 08April2023
Posted in art,Australia,Dance,NatureTags: arts and crafts,Australia,children,environmental portrait,landscape,nature,Panboola,performance,performers,Photo Blog,Ursula Wall,wetlands
In the West Coast Temperate Rainforest
It is a magically beautiful walk from the Bear Cove Highway, near Port Hardy at the north east end of Canada’s Vancouver Island, to Storey’s Beach, Fort Rupert. I think the forests of British Columbia (BC), Canada must be my Spirit Home.
It was my first time to the north end of Vancouver Island, at the very west of Canada, but I felt right at home!
I was on a BC road trip, and was booked to take the long ferry trip north from Port Hardy, at the northern tip of the island, through the Canadian portion of the Inside Passage, to Prince Rupert on the mainland (watch this space!). After spending a few days in Sayward (see: Wet, Green, and Beautiful) towards the middle of Vancouver Island, I allowed myself an extra day in that little coastal town where the ferry terminal is.
With a local map in hand, and after a conversation with a resident, I decided to walk the Fort Rupert Trail.
The trail – which is also known as the Commuter Trail because it links Port Hardy and Fort Rupert – is listed by All Trails as being an easy 3.9 kilometres (2.4 miles) each way. I added a walk along Storey’s Beach to what was once the Hudson’s Bay Company trading post of Fort Rupert, and is now a predominantly Kwakiutl First Nation unincorporated community called Tsax̱is. By the time I returned to my car, I had clocked up 13 km (8 mi), was wet from the intermittent rain, and was tired but happy.
It is a beautiful walk from the highway, near Port Hardy, into lush West Coast temperate rainforest, past a lake, whose name I never found, and onto the tidal beach on Beaver Harbour. Wandering through the Kwakwaka’wakw (spellings vary) totem poles and other artworks in the community of Tsax̱is, and drinking a hot coffee from the Fort Rupert General Store before walking back, were added bonuses!
Join me for another walk in the woods:
Fort Rupert Trail
The western end of the trailhead is clearly marked and easy to find along the Bear Cove Highway. Misty Forest
The woods are a rich green mix of conifers – Douglas firs, Sitka spruce, and cedars – and deciduous trees. This is temperate rainforest, and mists or rains are never far away. Little Bird
High in a tree – a western red cedar, I think – a little bird attracts my attention with its song. Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
These ground-hugging perennial plants are named for the flowering trees they resemble. Salmonberry – Rubus Spectabilis
The shoots and berries of these brambles are a traditional food source for the local First Nations people. Into the Firs
The trail continues across a bushy hilltop and into another section of forest. Bunchberry Dogwood in the Boardwalk
The trail features a variety of terrains, including gravel paths, wooden walkways, and dirt and bark tracks. Unnamed Lake
A boardwalk section skirts a pretty lake … Yellow Pond-Lily – Nuphar Lutea
… which is dotted with patches of lilies in bloom. Western Bog Laurel – Kalmia Microphylla Around the Lake Path in the Tall Trees
The boardwalk finishes at the end of the lake, and the path changes to a soft dirt track into the tall trees. Winding Track
On some of the boardwalk sections, the trail is laid with a rough material to prevent people slipping on the wet wood. Red Alder – Alnus Rubra Amphibian in the Leaf Litter
In the leaf litter on the forest floor, small creatures are almost impossible to spot. I think this is a boreal or western toad (Anaxyrus boreas). Boreal Toad – Anaxyrus Boreas
Further along the track, I found another little toad that was much easier to see. Onto the Beach
The path finishes on Beaver Road, which runs into Fort Rupert. Like other walkers, I crossed it to access the harbour instead. Beaver Harbour Park (Storey’s Beach)
The beach here was named for the first non-Indigenous residents, logger George (Paddy) Storey and his wife Sannie. Paddy got a logging permit for the area in 1941. Waves in the Sand
It was low tide when I arrived; it’s about a twenty minute walk across the beach to the municipality of Fort Rupert – known to the local people as Tsax̱is. Nature’s Artwork : A Shell with Seaweed Rocks on Beaver Harbour
The snow-capped mountains of the BC mainland can be seen across the waters of the harbour and Johnstone Strait. Kwagu’ł First Nation Longhouse in Tsax̱is
Fort Rupert was established as a Hudson’s Bay Company fort in the mid-1800s. Kwakwaka’wakw First Nations People moved into the new community soon after to take advantage of the trading post. Cemetery
The community has a small, grassy cemetery, … Burial Poles
… which is home to some unique carved and painted burial poles, the likes of which I had never seen. Thunderbird
Thunderbirds, on the other hand, are represented across many Native American nations. This enormous bird is a powerful spirit – possessing the capability to protect humans from evil spirits. Wooden Totem
You see the thunderbird everywhere; this one on a weathered totem pole sits atop an orca, or killer whale. These, too, are frequently represented in West Coast Indigenous art; they represent the strength of love and the bonds of family. Fortified by my tradingpost sandwich and coffee, I followed the road back to the trailhead, and retraced the track back to my car.
What always amazes me is how different the same track looks from the other direction!
Even in the misty rain, it was a lovely walk, and I can’t wait to go back.
Until then,
Happy Walking!
Photos: 04June2022
Posted in Canada,Nature,TravelTags: animals,Canada,flowers,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Vancouver Island,walk
Crak de Montréal – Montreal Castle
High on a rock in Jordan, the ruins of a Crusader-built fortress sit on the eastern flank of the Holy Lands, overlooking historical trading and pilgrimage routes between Egypt and Syria. A Crusader castle? It didn’t feel real to me; it was as if the pictures in an old children’s storybook had come to life.
My visit to Shobak Montreal Castle – now known as Qal’at ash-Shawbak in Arabic (the nomenclature and spellings vary wildly) – caused me to take a deep-dive back into my vinyl collection to find my copy of Chris de Burgh’s Crusader (1979). While that set the mood, I still needed internet searches to flesh-out my scant knowledge of the history.
The Crusades were essentially religious wars focused on holy sites considered sacred by both Christians and Muslims. Jerusalem was under Muslim rule for hundreds of years, but when the Arabic Fatimid Caliphate lost control of the city to the expanding Oghuz Turkic Seljuq Dynasty in 1073, Christian pilgrims to the city started reported increased difficulties, and the Byzantium Eastern Roman Empire felt under threat.
Byzantine Emperor Alexios I requested military support from Western Christians in 1095. Pope Urban II, head of the Catholic Church responded by advocating an armed ‘pilgrimage’ to Jerusalem, and the First Crusade (1096–1099) began. By 1099, the Kingdom of Jerusalem, a Crusader state was declared, and was under Christian control.
Baldwin I was one of the most successful commanders of the First Crusade and the second Christian ruler of Jerusalem. Part of his strength was in his diplomatic skills, but he also consolidated and expanded his domain by building and/or strengthening a number of fortresses. These included Montreal Castle, which he built on a rocky, conical mountain near Shobak.
Finished in 1115, the castle secured Christian control of the caravan routes between Syria and Egypt until it fell to Ayyubid Sultan Saladin (Salah al-Din) in 1189 – after almost two years of siege. The Ayyubid Sultans held the fortress until it was stormed by the Mamluk Sultan Baybars in 1261.
The castle is mostly in ruins, which to my mind adds to its charm and sense of history. Remains of a curtain wall and two chapels date to the Crusaders. The Mamluks renovated and decorated towers and walls around the 14th century, and carved inscriptions can be seen on these today.
The castle is just 30 km (19 mi) north of Wadi Musa where we had spent a couple of days rambling around Petra, so the morning sun was straight into our eyes from the east when we arrived, ready to explore a very different period in Jordanian history.
The Old King’s Highway
The highway we are on follows the principal caravan route between Syria and Egypt and has been in use since time immemorial. The castle on the rock commands a view in all directions. It was originally named Mont Real or Mons Regalis (Royal Mountain) in honor of the King of Jerusalem Baldwin I and his contribution to its construction. Hills and Valleys
Known as Qal’at ash-Shawbak in Arabic, the ancient fortress sits at the eastern side of the Arabah Valley. Visitors Centre
The closer we are, the higher the castle looks. It sits at 1330 m (4364 ft) above sea level – but I’m not sure how far the valley drops. Textures
This dry and rocky terrain lacks a reliable source of water, so somehow the builders sank a well shaft down to a water vein inside the rock. Accessed by 375 steps, this allowed the castle defenders to retrieve water without being exposed to attack, and was one of the reasons it held out against siege longer than the nearby castle of Kerak. Once were Houses
Stone cottages blend into the hillside. Striated Hills and Ruins Castle Courtyard
Local handicrafts are on display in the outer courtyard. The Landscape Below
The dry land east of the River Jordan stretches out in all directions. Square Tower
The Arabic inscription on this tower built by the Mamluks refers to Sultan Husam al-Din Lajin (1297-1298). Fallen Arches Above
The delicate remains of vaulted arches are quite beautiful. Arched Entry
The ruins are an interesting mix of smoothly carved bricks and rough hewn stones, … Bricks and Rubble
… and they stretch out further than I first expected. Saladin’s Soldier
Men around the site are dressed as Muslim soldiers of the period. Portrait of a Medieval Soldier People in a Tunnel Tunnel towards the Light On the Ruined Walls Scorpion in the Sand
Three of Jordan’s fourteen species of scorpions are venomous; I stayed well clear of this one! Arches in the Crusader’s Church Break Time
Back at one of the arches, a soldier takes a break from his hot helmet. Looking out of the Dark
Another tunnel leads into a small room … The Baths
… that has been partly reconstructed, and once contained the baths. Wadi Dana
We leave the castle, and drive a half hour north to the Dana Visitor Center, where we can once again look back over that stark but beautiful landscape. The rule of the Ottomans continued over the castle until the Arab Revolt of 1916, when local sheikhs took control. Until the 1950s, the castle was the private residence of a few local families.
 Although various international and interdepartmental agencies have made plans for the restoration of the buildings, little has been accomplished.
I think I like it better that way!
Photos: 17October2019
Posted in Architecture,History,Jordan,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Christian,environmental portrait,history,Jordan,landscape,muslim,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Pancha Rathas
Carved out of a single pink granite outcrop, the five distinctive monuments in this complex resemble the wooden chariots (rathas) of their day. They have stood here since the 7th century, and have weathered two tsunamis and constant salt winds from the nearby Bay of Bengal. I’m not sure what impressed me most: the artistic beauty; the architectural complexity; or the mind-boggling age.
Mahabalipuram (Thirukadalmallai, Mamallapuram), one of the oldest cities in India, is a coastal town on the Bay of Bengal in Tamil Nadu, and home 40 ancient monuments and temples dated to the 7th and 8th centuries. UNESCO- listed as the Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram since 1984, these buildings includes ten major rathas (temples in the form of chariots), ten mandapas (cave sanctuaries), two rock bas-reliefs, and three structural temples. Some of the structures were left unfinished, giving modern historians insight into how they were constructed.
Touted as fine examples of classical Indian architecture, these monuments were built during the Pallava dynasty. This dynasty existed from 275 CE to 897 CE, coming to major prominence in South India between the 6th and 9th centuries CE. The Pallavas were noted for their patronage of Hindu temple architecture and for the fine abilities of their craftsmen. In the words of UNESCO: “The influence of the sculptures of Mahabalipuram, characterized by the softness and suppleness of their modelling, spread afar to places such as Cambodia, Annam and Java.”
I didn’t visit all 40 structures. But, with a tour guide and a small group, I did spend several hours exploring this magnificent collection of rock carvings. It was a complete contrast to Chennai, where we had been the day before (see: A Colourful Past and Present)!
Do join me:
Morning Sea Fog
Our first stop was at the aptly-named Shore Temple, built between 700 and 728 CE. You can just see the waters of the Bay of Bengal behind the fence. Family of Visitors
I love how so many Indians are willing to let perfect strangers take their pictures! Shore Temples
The three temples at the complex are built on the same platform; the larger two of these are dedicated to Shiva and the small third shrine, between the two, is dedicated to a reclining Vishnu. Pilgrims in Red and Yellow
Pilgrimage to sacred places is a cornerstone in Hindu practice – and Mahabalipuram is one of many Indian places on the target list. Visitors to the Temples
Pilgrims often wear auspicious red or saffron. Plenty of other local visitors – including school groups – are around as well. Shore Temple Roof
This is one of the oldest structural (as opposed to rock-cut) stone temples in Southern India, built with blocks of granite in the Dravidian architectural style. Indian Palm Squirrel – Funambulus Palmarum Shore Temple Repairs
Considered the finest early example of medieval southern Indian architecture, after standing by the sea for over 12 centuries, it needs some support and structural repair. Shore Temple Water Tank
From the water tank, we get a good view over the temple complex. Pancha Rathas
A short distance away, we enter a grouping of extraordinary monolithic structures: the Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots). They are generally believed to have been carved during the reign of Narasimhavarman I (630–668 CE), but some historians attribute the monuments to Narasimhavarman II (690–725 CE). Draupadi Ratha Doorway
This unfinished structure is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Durga; because they were never finished, the rathas were never consecrated, and therefore are not strictly ‘temples’. Nandi
As the sacred bull of the God Shiva, Nandi often makes an appearance at Hindu sites. Pilgrims at the Elephant
The site is lively with visitors and pilgrims. The beautifully carved two-storey, Vesara-style ratha next to the elephant here is Nakula Sahadeva, and stands almost 5 m (6 ft) high. Yudhishtir Ratha
Each of the five monuments in the complex resembles a wooden ‘chariot’ (ratha) – like the palanquins or howdahs used to transport people or deities. Where they are unfinished, you can see how the ratha and the plinth have been carved into a single, long granite monolith. Pilgrim Family at the Pancha Rathas Yudhishtir Ratha from the Side
Walking along the outer perimeter of the site, I got a whole new appreciation for the intricate designs. Bhima Ratha
The largest of the rathas, Bhima is 14 m (46 ft) long and about 7.6 m (25 ft) high and wide. Unlike the other buildings, this ratha has no inscriptions or sculptures. Kolam Lady
Outside the complex, I stopped to appreciated the rice-flour designs called Kolam, a traditional decorative art originating in Tamil Nadu. Every morning, women draw designs in front of their doorways to bring prosperity to their homes. Stone Carver
I also had a chat with a local craftsman – possibly a long descendent of those who created these impressive sites. Krishna Mandapa (Cave)
A short distance away, we find more beautiful carvings telling stories from Hindu mythology and showing scenes of everyday life in 7th-century Tamil Nadu. This complex and extensive rock-cut cave was completed in the mid-7th century. Descent of the Ganges or Arjuna’s Penance
Considered one of the largest bas-relief works in the world, this intricately chiseled artwork covers two large boulders of pink granite and measures 15 by 30 metres (49 ft × 98 ft). It depicts the elaborate story of how Bhagiratha, a legendary king in Hindu literature, brought the Ganga River to earth to purify the ashes of his relatives, thereby releasing them from their sins. The Ganesha Ratha
Our walk around the property leads us past the back of another elegant ratha. Krishna’s Butterball
This boulder and the optical illusion it creates gives tourists some light relief. The name refers to Krishna’s favourite food; it is also called the Stone of the Sky God. Measuring 6 m (20 ft) high and 5 m (16 ft) wide, this precarious-looking rock has been unmoved by kings or earthquakes for as long as anyone can remember. Adi Varaha Perumal Cave Temple
The last rock-cut cave temple I visited is also the oldest. Dedicated to Vishnu and dated to around 650 CE, the strikingly beautiful and elaborate relief sculptures inside show the God in various different manifestations: here he is a boar, lifting Bhudevi – the mother earth Goddess – up from the sea. Goats in the Garden
Outside the caves, goats wander around the protected domain … Mahabalipuram Street
… and in the seaside resort beyond, modern life goes on.
It is a remarkable collection of monuments – truly an historic and beautiful legacy in stone.
Until next time,
ॐ
Photos: 20January2023
Posted in Architecture,India,TravelTags: architecture,hindu,hinduism,history,India,Photo Blog,sculpture,temple,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
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