.jpg) Old Equipment inside Old Walls
Two things define the Sultanate of Oman: old forts and dates. I thought this date juice-jar inside the historic Jabreen Castle made a good illustration of this. If there are two things that define the Sultanate of Oman, it would be old forts, towers, and castles – and date palms.
This relatively small Middle Eastern country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula is home to about 1,000 forts and watchtowers – many of which are open to the public. I didn’t see all of them, but I did visit a few – sometimes more than one a day (eg: Oman’s Fortress Castles)!
Dates are central to the Omani culture and economy. The date palm is the most important agricultural crop in the country, with around eight million trees and 60 different varieties. Historically, in addition to being an important general foodstuff and ritually offered to visitors, they were used to make date syrup, which when boiling, could be poured over would-be attackers.
The historic 17th century Jabreen Castle (حصن جبرين) – also spelled Jibreen or Jabrin – is an example of both ideas. Standing alone in a plain of date palms some distance from the Hajar Mountains, from the outside the palace looks like any of the other blocky Omani fortresses.
Jabreen Castle was built as a palace during a time of peace by a ruler who was passionate about science and art, and includes a madrasa, or school, and a library. But, it is well fortified: with thick defensive walls, soldiers’ quarters, gunnery platforms, and even secret internal hideouts and corridors – which visitors can now explore.
One of the most impressive rooms in the castle is the madbasa – often translated as “date press” – a large, specially constructed space for producing producing date syrup or honey. Bags of dates are piled on an elevated floor in a closed and non-ventilated room with channels grooved into the sloped floor. Gravity squashed the dates and the liquid ran downward to be collected in pots and jars (see: Besides the Obvious: Jabreen Castle). Ingenious!
Come explore:
.jpg) Power from the Car
Oman is considered a high income country, with a relatively modern infrastructure. Unsurprising then, that many of the highways are flanked by power lines. .jpg) Jabreen from the Car
Jabreen Castle (حصن جبرين) – also spelled Jibreen or Jabrin – stands alone in a wide plain, surrounded by date palms.  Cannons at the Entry
It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it is home to some fascinating architecture and history. Negotiating Entry
Our guide and driver Said negotiates our entrance fee. Castle Plans
Inside the outer wall, the plans of the castle illustrate its layout. I’m glad we had a guide: it was hard to tell one corridor from another, and even with audio guides, visitors often end up wandering lost. Arches
In typical Middle Eastern style, … Corridors
… arched doorways lead of in all directions. Inside Jabreen
Although it is built like a fortress, Jabreen is classified as a castle; it was was built in 1670 by Imam Bel’arab bin Sultan Al Yarubi as a palace and a center for knowledge. Between the Walls
Like other Omani bastions, the castle is a balance of solid defences and elegant lines. Interior Cannons
A second set of cannons guard the entrance to the main palace. Simplicity
The rendered walls and rooms … Old Date Syrup Dispenser
… are decorated with historical objects. Madbasa
Dark and airless, a madbasa is a room for extracting date syrup: the liquid once flowed down these old channels to be collected in pots or jars, ready for storage, cooking, or to assist women in labour. ‘Horse Trappings’
One of the more unusual rooms inside the castle would have to be the horse stall, one floor up, where the Imam’s horse was housed. Interior Courtyard
The inner courtyard between the two building blocks is cool and airy – even in the desert heat – with filigreed windows and wooden balconies Jabreen Rooftop
From the lower rooftop, you can get a sense of the construction of the thick walls, … View from Jabreen Fort
… and enjoy views over the surrounding plain. Flag on the Roof
Date palms extend into the distance. Sparrows
Back inside in the cooler dark of the castle, sparrows are making themselves at home. Carved Beam
Many of the ceilings within the castle are intricately carved and vividly painted. The Whisper Room
Nowhere is this better illustrated than in the little room on the upper level where the Imam held his most secret and confidential meetings: the closely packed ceiling beams helped baffle any sound, preventing anyone outside from listening in. View from the Upper Rooftop
From the upper roof, the views over the countryside are even better. Bahla Fort
We had a good view over nearby Bahla Fort and its oasis. Built during the the 13th and 14th century, it is Oman’s largest fort and considered one of the most impressive examples of medieval Islamic architecture. Unesco World Heritage Listed, it was closed when we were in the area. Looking Out
Entering the special staircase to the Imam’s room, I look back out to admire the lines and contrasts. Domed Corridor
This dark space is beautifully decorated in Islamic fashion … Carved Staircase
… with calligraphy and intricate designs. Beautiful Stairwell
The staircase leading to the Imam’s rooms is functional as well as beautiful: a plank on one of the lower steps makes noise when it is stepped on, alerting people to possible intruders. Jabreen Castle was restored in the 1980s, and the maze of beautifully decorated rooms and passages are well worth exploring.
I’m just glad I had a guide! I had no idea where I was most of the time – just one of the features that helped keep intruders at bay.
 Peace reigned here until 1692, when the Imam’s brother and a large army laid siege. The Imam prayed to Allah for death, and is interred inside the castle he built, in a corner that was his favorite place of prayer.
Pictures: 23October2019.
Posted in Architecture,Oman,TravelTags: architecture,blog,castle,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,islamic,Oman,people,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Tangled Trunks
I kept imagining Red Riding Hood and the wolves and goblins of old fairy tales as I walked through the cool, mossy, rhododendron forest near Tadapani, Nepal. I’ve said it before: walking through the rhododendron forests of Nepal is like being in the enchanted world of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale (see: Waterfalls, Mystic Forests, And Clouds). The colours and textures of the trees, the mosses, and even the damp and rocky pathways captured my attention and imagination.
The rain had stopped and the skies were clear. It was late March and the tall and twisted trees were in bloom with Nepal’s national flower, the lali gurans, or red rhododendron. Considered a welcome sign of spring, the 30-odd species of lali gurans that are native to the central and eastern hills of Nepal are a subset of the much larger rhododendron arboreum family. Thriving at altitudes between 2000 m (6500 ft) and 3900 m (1300 ft) in the Himalayas, they are a welcome sight to trekkers.
My husband and I were on Day 5 of a slow circuit trek in the Annapurnas under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa: from Nayapul to Ghorepani/Poon Hill and Ghandruk. Most of our small group were on the slippery side of middle-age, and most of us were carrying heavy camera equipment, so the magnificent mountain and forest views were a welcome excuse to stop, take photos, and admire the scenery!
View from our Terrace
I have set my alarm early so that when I exit our Tadapani guesthouse room onto the terrace, I can watch the skies lighten over Fish Tail (Machapuchare). Sunrise on Annapurna South and Machapuchare
What could be better than being treated to this view? Prayer Flags, Roof Tiles, and Rhododendron Flowers
It is now 6:30 on a spring morning. The world behind me seems to drift off into a dream. “Good Morning, Tadapani!”
I pause for a quick selfie before going back in to pack for the day. Annapurna South Looms Large “You Are Here”
There are regular trekking map boards along these popular routes. Flowers Overhead
We head off, south east into the forest. There are rhododendron flowers in the tall trees overhead, … Flowers Underfoot
… and even more petals on the ground. Path Winding Through the Trees Heavy Load
We have the luxury of walking these tracks for pleasure; local people use them to meet their daily needs, … Porters on the Path
… or to make a living transporting tourists’ belongings. Nature’s Still Life : Colour and Texture Fallen Leaves Shaggy Bark
Everywhere I look, the colours and textures grab me. Mossy Trunk More Colour and Texture Fallen Flower in the Grass Rocks and Trunks
The moss on everything makes the scene magical to me. Light on the Leaf Spores More Flowers Going Down
It is always a relief when the path drops down instead of climbing! Into Bhaisikharka
It is even better news when it becomes obvious we have reached a town! Chances are good that we’ll stop for food. “Welcome to Bhaisikharka!”
The other great pleasure of reaching a town is chatting with the locals. Young Man
I’m always impressed by how willing people are to have their picture taken.
It wasn’t yet 11:00 o’clock, but we had been up early – and I am always ready to eat!
But, I knew we’d be on our way again soon to finish our walk for the day (Watch this Space!).
Until then,
Happy Walking!
Photos: 23March2017
Posted in Landscapes,Nepal,TravelTags: Annapurnas,blog,landscape,nature,Nepal,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Boats on the Waterfront
The boats at Lakes Entrance, Australia, have their choice of endless protected inland waterways, or the wilder waters of the Tasman Sea and Southern Ocean Lakes Entrance is a delightful coastal town in eastern Victoria, Australia. It is known for its long, beautiful beaches, recreational and commercial fishing, and bushwalking and water-based activities. It sits at the meeting point of the Southern Ocean and the Gippsland Lakes – a vast system of inland waterways.
Being only 320 kilometres (200 mi) east of Melbourne, Lakes Entrance is usually a popular weekend and holiday destination for the urban residents there.
But, these were not usual times… I was heading to Melbourne to stay on the Mornington Peninsula (see: Balcombe Estuary And Coolart Homestead), with the hopes of getting into the CBD to see a special art exhibition. But, Melbourne was in the grips of a Covid19 lockdown, and I spent an unexpected extra day in Lakes Entrance waiting to see if the restrictions would be lifted.
So, I had no real plans, except to get out for a morning walk.
I was lucky enough to be staying near the footbridge that crosses Cunninghame Arm and leads to the Entrance Walk (see: Walking Maps). This gorgeous walk is along well-marked paths through coastal bush, along beaches, and over boardwalk. There are historical buildings and the occasional explanatory sign-board as you work your way along the shores of Lake Cunninghame to the actual entrance into the Gippsland Lakes.
I heard and saw many birds that were too quick for me to photograph. According to one website, you ‘alway’ see Australian fur seals here; I didn’t. I did, however, enjoy the sight of a pod of dolphins surfing the strong currents through the tidal narrows. I had left the cameras behind, and did what I could with the iPhone.
Join me for a short and easy, but very pleasant, walk around a portion of Lake Tyers Coastal Reserve.
Endless Golden Sand
Lakes Entrance Beach stretches out before me: we are near the top end of Ninety Mile Beach – a 151 kilometre (94 mile) stretch of sandy beach facing the Bass Strait. It is the fourth longest stretch of uninterrupted beach in the world, and is also considered one of the most natural and unspoilt expanses of waterfront sand anywhere. Lakes Entrance Beach
As I walk along the beach, I am looking across Cunninghame Arm and back to the township. These are tidal waters, so if you want en extended beach walk, you need to check the tide tables. Working Boats on the Waterfront
The walking track takes me up into beautiful coastal scrub of banksia, tea trees, and boobialla. I get glimpses of the boats along the waterfront in the township. Nature’s Artwork : A Textured Stump Private Jetty, Carpentertown
Talk about location! Carpentertown was established after it was decided, in 1870, to build a permanent opening between Gippsland Lakes and the ocean. The settlement included workmen’s cottages, a boarding house, and a school. Today there are a few cottages left which are still occupied by lucky descendants of those workers. Retaining Wall on Cunninghame Arm
The original project took 19 years, and the Entrance finally opened in 1889. However, it wasn’t up to the power of the elements, and many of the timber piers were destroyed by teredo worms. The second stage of project to rectify these problems was unimaginatively named the New Works. Entrance Pier
Looking down over the Entrance, you can see the power of the water surging into the Lakes through the channel. Walkway
The wooden walkway down to the pier from Flagstaff Lookout is steep, but well maintained. Dolphins
I got lucky! A small pod of dolphins were frolicking in the incoming waters. Dolphins in the Entrance
I can’t watch these lovely creatures without smiling. The Relics Trail
I love the shapes and textures of old machinery … Winch at New Works
… and these rusty pieces are real historic treasures. Still Life Found : Old Machinery Old Building at New Works I followed the beach back to the footbridge – and was back in town in time for a big Aussie breakfast.
I had earned it: it’s only a 5.6 km (3.5 mi) walk, but somehow I managed to clock up eight km!
Happy Walking!
Pictures: 17June2021
Posted in Australia,Nature,TravelTags: Australia,history,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Victoria,walk
Sailboats in Sydney Harbour
It’s a perfect summer day: sunny skies; enough wind to give the genoas a nice puff; and a slight sea haze, rendering Sydney’s distinctive skyline dreamy. Almost any city is nice in good weather – but you just can’t beat Sydney and its harbour on a sunny day.
For all my years of being in and around Sydney, I have not spent enough time on the waters there. There is no excuse for it really – the public ferries that criss-cross from Sydney’s Circular Quay to various points around the harbour and beyond are comfortable, relatively cheap, and easy to use. And, they afford the same glorious views as the more-expensive tourist boats.
But there always seemed to be something else going on …
One December, however – mid-summer in the southern hemisphere – we had international visitors and had taken them to the zoo and the aquarium. A bonus with our tickets was a return passage from Circular Quay to Watsons Bay on the Captain Cook Cruises ferry. The season had been glorious, so there was no reason not to jump aboard and take ourselves over the harbour for some famous fish and chips and a short coastal walk.
Watsons Bay is a harbour-side suburb 11km (6.8mi) northeast of Sydney’s Central Business District (CBD). While you can access it by road, the city’s traffic can be a nightmare – and if you are downtown anyway, private boats or New South Wales Ferries are easier and much more fun.
The suburb sits on the South Head Peninsula, allowing great views west across Port Jackson to the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The high eastern cliffs, known as The Gap, give views to Manly on North Head and the Pacific Ocean.
Amongst other things, Watsons Bay is known for the internationally famous Doyles on the Beach seafood restaurant. That was a bit out of our league, and we didn’t have a reservation, so we made do with fish and chips from the more modest Doyles on the Wharf Take Away.
We carried our lunch up to The Gap Lookout National Park, and enjoyed some of the best food and views that Sydney has to offer.
Join me on and around the waters of Sydney Harbour.
Bridge over Darling Harbour
We picked up our boat in Cockle Bay, Darling Harbour, and motored under the historic Pyrmont Bridge – built in 1902 – to get to the outer harbour. Cars were banned here in 1981, and it is now strictly for pedestrian and bicycle traffic. I walk over this bridge often when I’m in Sydney. Australian National Maritime Museum
This ‘museum of the sea’ includes a replica of James Cook’s HMB Endeavour, which visitors can tour to get a feel for the life of the early explorers. I visit the museum regularly because it also hosts the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition. Ferry on the Water
While Sydney Ferries get highlighted in the occasional news stories of high drama, cost blow-outs, or unreasonable delays, for the most part they are clean, fast, and efficient ways to access ports around the city and beyond. Iconic Sydney Harbour Scene
Sailors in the crowd will note that this scene is less-than-ideal: the sails are luffing; slack with insufficient wind. But, really! A sailboat, the Opera House, and the Sydney Harbour Bridge; what more could you want? (iPhone6) High-Rises on Sydney Harbour A Sydney Ferry and Luna Park
Luna Park is a heritage-listed amusement park in Milsons Point. Constructed in 1935, it was closed in mid-1979 (just before my arrival in the country) when the Ghost Train fire killed six children and one adult. Although most of the park was demolished and new rides were constructed, it was closed for various reasons for most of the time I lived nearby, and I have never visited. But, I would miss that ridiculous clown-faced sun if it were ever to disappear! Almost Abstract : Lines and Angles
We get glimpses of the Sydney Opera House as we pass under Pyrmont Bridge. Sydney Ferry and the Opera House
And there she is! I attend performances here four or more times most years, and never get tired of visiting. What a beautiful building! Boats and the Bridge
And that bridge! Affectionately called the ‘The Coathanger’, this steel-through-arch bridge opened in 1932 and gives Sydney Harbour some of its most iconic views. (Phone6) The Sydney Opera House On Top of the World!
Since 1998 the BridgeClimb has allowed visitors – well-harnessed in – the chance to climb the bridge. Wedding on the Shore
Unfortunately, this photo is not very sharp, but it gives a feel for the layers of age in the city, and the continual activity on the waterfront. Fort Denison
Once a penal site and a defensive facility, this island in the harbour has been heritage-listed since 1999. I like the contrast with the ultra-modern recreational vessel in the foreground. With the Sun in my Eyes Sailboats in the Harbour
The waters here are a playground for the wealthy! Sydney in our Wake
The profile of the CBD makes a dreamy backdrop for all the boats on the waters. Shark Island and its Light Watsons Bay
As we come into the wharf, it is easy to envy those with houses on the waterfront here; median house prices in this Sydney suburb are currently 5.4M Australian dollars. Sydney and Port Jackson
From the hilly land of South Head, we have views back to the city centre. Commemorative Anchor
The waters outside the headland can be dangerous. The Dunbar was wrecked here in 1857, with the loss of 121 lives. Enjoying the Sun Weathered Rocks
I’ve always loved the colours, textures, and shapes carved into the sandstone along Sydney’s lengthy coastline. Treasure Flowers – Gazania Rigens Memorial
Lieutenant Grieve was a Special Service Officer who was killed in 1900 at the Battle of Paardeberg during the South African (Boer) War. Local residents had this marble and sandstone memorial (originally a drinking fountain) erected in his honour. Looking North to Manly Keeping the Beat
There is a visible police presence to discourage people from climbing; … ‘Hold Onto Hope’
… this is a popular suicide spot because of the unforgiving ocean below. Doyles on the Wharf
We work our way back down the hill to the ferry wharf. View from the Ferry Pier Our Captain Cook’s Representative
Back on the ferry, we are again given the safety briefing, as well as commentary on the sights. From Mossman Pier
On our return trip we stop at Mossman, which gives access to Taronga Zoo (see: A tale of Two Tarongas). South Passage Schooner
We are also treated to the sight of some more fabulous sailing boats, … Manly Fast Ferry
… as well as some of the other commercial vessels on the waters with us. The Bridge And, just like that, we are back.
Until next time,
Safe sailing!
Pictures: 16December2017
Posted in Australia,On the Water,TravelTags: Australia,blog,National Park,on the water,sailboat,Sydney,transportation,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,water,waterscape,waterways
The Dead Sea
It’s a magnificent landscape: desert light shimmers over the dense salty waters of the Dead Sea in Jordan. Jordan is one of those places where I’d go back.
I’ve had a lifelong love of deserts, and a fascination with Lawrence of Arabia. So, to walk and camel-ride in Lawrence’s boot-steps in the magically beautiful sculpted desert landscape of Wadi Rum was an absolute dream-come-true (see: Desert Rains and the Seven Pillars of Wisdom; A Morning in Wadi Rum). I also loved the stories, the colours, and the textures of the breathtakingly beautiful Nabatean cities of Petra and Little Petra (see: Nabatean), and could have used more time in that whole area.
At just over 89,000 square kilometres of semi-arid country, Jordan is relatively small. But, it sits at the crossroads of Asia, Africa, and Europe, and has borne witness to at least 200,000 years of civilisations and migrations. The evidence of this history that still sits on the landscape just is amazing! As well as the Nabateans, the Romans left their mark (see: Ancient Jerash) – as did the early Christians (see: Shobak and Mosaics and Churches). Today’s population of 10 million people is 98% ethnic Arab; although about 84% of people live in the cities, they still cherish their nomadic desert roots. This is evident in all aspects of culture, food, art, and dress.
I only spend a week in the country, but with a small bus and a good guide, we criss-crossed north-to-south and back again, taking in a wide variety of sites, and stopping at some roadstops full of fascinating offerings for tourists.
My last afternoon was spent at the Citadel, an archeological park at the center of downtown Amman which epitomises the long and varied history of the country. Although most of the ruins and structures still visible at the site are from the Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods, evidence of Neolithic and Bronze Age inhabitation has also been found on the hill.
Join me on some Jordanian roads and road stops
On the Tarmac
Even from the airplane window as you land at the Queen Alia International Airport, you get a sense of a modern world blending into a desert landscape. (iPhone6S) View from the Bus
Jordan has a relatively modern educational system, which probably helps with maintaining decent roads and infrastructure. Ornate Inlaid Furniture – Midway Castle
There some extraordinary things for sale at the various highway rest stops! (iPhone6S) Spices and Resins
Spices and scents are available everywhere – as are cremes, lotions, clothing, and souvenirs. (iPhone6S) Our Guide
On our bus rides, our guide kept us oriented, educated, and entertained … Scenes from the Bus
… as the magnificent desert landscapes flew past. This is around Wadi Rum, where rock mountains and mesas were thrown high above sea level by tectonic shifts, and carved by millenia of fierce winds and blowing sand. Valley Gulf
At a roadstop further north, near the top end of Valley Gulf, the sculpted mountains rise in the east over the Dead Sea Highway. Almost Abstract : Scenes from a Bus
Floating off into a haze of heat and power lines, the south end of the Dead Sea comes into view. Edge of the Dead Sea
The high mineral content of the Dead Sea makes for rich colours in the early afternoon light. Lot’s Wife
On the other side of the road stands Lot’s wife, who, according to the Book of Genesis, was turned into a pillar of salt for looking back at Sodom. Down to the Beach
Once we are checked into our room for the night, we can walk down to the Dead Sea itself. Beach on the Dead Sea
Between climate change and excess use of water up-stream, the Dead Sea is receding dramatically – and the walk across the beach is a lot further than it used to be. Israel is hiding a short distance away, in the heat haze on the horizon. That’s Me – in the Dead Sea!
When in Jordan … you have to cover yourself in black mud, and have a float … It is actually harder than it looks! If you are not careful, you can be flipped over. Night Lights
By complete contrast, Amman, the capital of Jordan, is vibrant and modern. The Beautiful People After Dark
With a population of over 4 million, it houses almost 40% of Jordan’s population, and is the fifth-largest city in the Arab world. Blue Amman
The roof of our hotel gives me a good view over the darkening city. Information Panels
The Amman Citadel, in the middle of downtown, has a long history of occupation by many civilizations. Stylish stone information signs as you enter the site outline some of this history. The Greeks called the city Philadelphia; the Rashidun Caliphate took the city from the Byzantines in the 7th century CE and restored its ancient Semitic name of Amman. In the Ruins
A large part of the Citadel has not been excavated; ruins scatter the ground and the unfinished Roman Temple of Hercules sits at the height. Temple of Hercules
According to an inscription, this temple was built some time between 162 and 166 CE. Archaeologists believe it was not finished, and that it suffered later earthquake damage. The Roman Theatre
Where you had Romans, you had a theatre! The city has grown around this 6,000-seat, 2nd-century theatre, which sits on a hill opposite the Amman Citadel. Pillars at the Roman Temple of Hercules Gateway of the Umayyad Palace
The palace here was built between 661 and 750 CE, during the second caliphate after the death of the prophet Muhammad. Much of the palace is in ruins, but the domed entrance, known as the “kiosk” or the “monumental gateway”, has been restored. Patterns in the Ancient Walls City from the Ruins
Looking out from where the 8th century palace once was, you can see where the new and vibrant city rises. Gateway from inside the Umayyad Palace Columns and Walls
The layers of age and human history here are mind boggling. “Fast Food”
One of the joys of travel is taste-testing the local foods. At the Hashem Restaurant
A Jordanian favourite is Levantine mezze, so it is only appropriate that we enjoy that for our last supper. Colourful Cab
One of the things that distinguishes cities from each other is the colour and make of their local taxis. Queen Alia International Airport
The airport rolls across the landscape like the waves of sand in the desert. (iPhone6S) 
And just like that, the beauty, diversity, and historic richness of this little country in the desert disappears through the airplane window.
I’d love to go back!
Photos: 13-20October2019
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