.jpg) Scaramella Semibastion
The beautiful colours of the Mediterranean Sea belie the long and painful history of Spinalonga in Crete: once a Venetian fortress and later a leper colony. I fell in love with Crete.
Greece’s southernmost district, Crete is the country’s largest and most populous island. Nestled between the Aegean and Libyan Seas, it is home to a magnificent coastline and beautiful beaches (eg: Preveli Beach). Populated since time immemorial, there is evidence of human settlement as early as 130,000 years ago. Buildings and ruins date across civilizations (eg: Rethymnon and Lasithi), and even enter into mythology (see: The Minotaur, Mythology, and an Ancient Palace).
What was even greater for me as a solo-traveler staying a bit off the beaten track without a car was that the guided bus trips around the island were a reasonable price! Of course, it is a big island, and I couldn’t see everything, but I did my best to pack in as much as I could.
My third Orange Travel bus tour took me to Spinalonga, a rocky island off the east coast of Crete’s Lasithi Prefecture.
Originally fortified by the Cretans to protect the city of Olous – now sunken ruins under Elounda Bay – the island became deserted in the 7th century following repeated raids across the Mediterranean by Arab pirates.
The Venetians took charge of Crete in 1204. By the mid-15th century, they began to construct salt-pans in the shallow and salty waters around the area of Elounda. The consequential commercial importance of this eastern region, and the rising threat of Turkish invasion, led the Venetians to hire an engineer – Genese Bressani – in 1578 to plan the fortification of Spinalonga.
It is the remains of these magnificent fortifications that give the barren island its distinctive appearance today.
In 1715, the Ottoman Turks captured Spinalonga, thereby taking over the last remaining Venetian fortress in Crete, and remained on the island until 1903 – long after the Christian Cretan insurgents had regained the rest of Crete. From that time until 1957, Spinalonga was used as a leper colony. When the identification of the mycobacteria causing leprosy finally led to effective treatments, people were no longer isolated in the same way, and the only resident remaining on the island was a Greek Orthodox priest. He stayed there until 1962 to observe the Orthodox rituals of commemorating all buried people at regular periods after their death.
Our guide accompanied us through the old village, giving us detailed explanations of the architecture and usage – most of which I have forgotten – before setting us loose. I used my free time to walk around the battlements along the island perimetre, where I admired the contrasts of the rough building stones and the arid, rocky landscape with the jewelled hues of the surrounding sea.
Join me!
.jpg) Tourist Boat – Plaka
Tourist boats for Spinalonga leave from the coastal towns of Agios Nikolaos, Elounda, and Plaka. .jpg) Ticket Salesman
We originally got off our bus in Elounda, only to be told the waters on that side were not good and we would meet our boat in Plaka. The boat was not there when we arrived, giving me time to people-watch, …  Spinalonga on the Horizon
… to explore the Plaka waterfront, and to try to get a feel for that rocky island not far away. Archangelos Coming In
Finally! Our pretty little boat arrives, … Getting on Archangelos
… and our busload boards. Prow toward Spinalonga
Eventually we set off … Those Colours!
… and the impressive Venetian Fortress on Spinalonga comes closer. Looking Back
Plaka nestles into the hillside behind us. Doors and Windows
Inside the fortress site, doors, windows, and archways lead off in all directions. Lines and Shadows
Parts of the village have been renovated over the years, first by the Ottoman, and later by the leper community. Stairs and Courtyard Prickly Pear
Some drought-hardy plants survive amid the ruins. Ancient Tree Eva
Our guide was a bit of a character! Corridors through Ancient Stones Greenery Takes Hold
Contrasts and textures are everywhere. Old Layers
Light and heat work their way into the old roofless rooms. Lines and Shadows and Beams Historic Venetian Tiles Inside the Ruins
The honeycomb of stairways and half-ruined walls seems to be endless. Mason
The work to keep the ruins upstanding … Workman at Rest
… is relentless and tiring. Outside the Fortress Walls Old Homes Tools of the Trade Our Guide at Rest Watch Tower
Spinalonga is a seaward bastion-type fortress. The fortified walls, which once housed 35 cannons, were so well built that today it is considered one of the best-preserved fortresses in the Mediterranean Sea. Colourful Rocks
The landscape is indeed rugged, and the buildings here on the east side of the island blend in. At the top of one hill, the round Mezzaluna Barbariga keeps watch; further down, the plain-looking, later-built, Church of St Georgios keeps the faith. Waters off the Battlement
In the other direction, the fortress walls stand against the Mediterranean. Church of St Georgios
As I walk back up the hill, the plain design of the Greek Orthodox church, built around 1661, is more evident. The inside is equally simple. Leper Cemetery on Donato Bastion
Spinalonga was one of the last active leper colonies in Europe. Near the church, a leper cemetery was constructed on the old Venetian Donato Bastion. Boats Waiting
As I rounded the last bend, I could see tour boats below: I had just enough time for a coffee and a comfort stop … Counting Passengers
… before being counted back onto the Archangelos for the journey back. Boat Returning to Plaka
Ours is not the only tour boat heading to the main island. Spinalonga from the Water
I appreciate that marvelous Venetian fortress so much more now, after exploring some of its nooks and crannies. In 1970 the island was declared as a protected archaeological site, and in 2014 it was submitted (so far, without success) for World Heritage Listing.
With its magnificent landscape, architecture, and unique history, the island is definitely worthy of attention and protection.
Here’s hoping none of us have to go through what those with leprosy endured!
Photos: 06September2022
Posted in Architecture,Greece,History,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Crete,Greece,history,landscape,Photo Blog,ruins,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Australian Pelican (Pelecanus Conspicillatus)
Animals are SO improbable! “A funny old bird is a pelican.
“His beak can hold more than his belican.
Food for a week
“He can hold in his beak,
“But I don’t know how the helican.”
– Dixon Lanier Merritt
I do love a good zoo!
I especially love zoos where the enclosures are respectful of the animals, their habitats, and of the visitors who come to see them and learn about them. Unlike some of the zoos of the past, modern organisations put a lot of energy into research and animal welfare, as well as education and conservation. They design enclosures that connect people with nature while allowing the animals to be sufficiently stimulated and comfortable with being on public view.
I enjoy visiting zoos in different places: they offer the opportunity for a lovely walk in a semi-natural space. I always marvel at how different localities have approached the design problems of managing limited room and turning it into suitable climate zones for their animal populations. Balancing aesthetics, safety, animal comfort, and visitor engagement is a constantly evolving field.
Naturally, I usually take my cameras wherever I visit. It amazes me how bizarre and different various animals are, and I’m always on the lookout for their defining colours, textures, and patterns (see: Teeth, Claws, and Colourful Patterns or A Tale of Two Tarongas).
Many years ago, my husband and I spent some time in Adelaide, South Australia, and used the occasion to visit the Adelaide Zoo, ‘one of Adelaide’s most iconic attractions … [and] home to more than 2,500 animals and 250 species. Over the years I’ve returned to the photo-set many times – so many times that Lightroom has had frequent upgrades in the interim – but have never quite pulled it all together.
Until now.
Join me in marvelling at some weird and wonderful natural decorations.
Almost Abstract : The City Reflected
Patterns seemed to be the theme of this particular Adelaide visit: even on our morning walks, it was the geometric shapes and urban abstracts that caught my eye. (iPhone4S) Prehistoric Trees Overhead
Critically-endangered and legally protected Wollemi pine trees (Wollemia nobilis) are members of the 200-million-year-old Araucariaceae family. Described as a living fossil, prior to their rediscovery in 1994, the trees were only known through fossil records that date about two million years old. Nature’s Artwork : Magnificent Bark
All the trees around us have a style of their own. I think this eucalyptus is a spotted gum (Corymbia maculata). Pale Water Lily – Nymphaea sp
Our first stop was in the Lily House; … In the Lily House
… I’ve always loved delicate-looking but hardy water lilies. Capybara – Hydrochoerus Hydrochaeris
I first saw greater capybara in their native South America. Just from the posture of this giant rodent, you can get a sense of their enormous size: they grow up to 1.3 metres (4.3 feet) long and can weigh up to 79 kg (174 pounds). Panda Dreaming
Adelaide is the only place in the southern hemisphere to house – in specially built enclosures – giant pandas (Ailuropoda melanoleuca). Inside – Outside : Panda Reflected
The Chinese government loaned Wang Wang and Fu Ni to Adelaide Zoo in 2009 as part of a global giant panda breeding program. So far, there has been no luck in producing babies. Emu – Dromaius Novaehollandiae
Emus are fascinating-looking creatures. Their fluffy feathers feature a unique double plume: emu and their cousins the cassowary are the only birds in the world that have two feathers of the same length originating from the one quill. Tasmanian Devil – Sarcophilus Harrisii
It is hard to photograph these feisty little endangered balls of furry energy: they are rarely still for long. Although they only grow to five to 14 kilograms (11 to 30 pounds), with their sharp, shearing teeth and powerful jaws, they are the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial. Bush Thick Knee – Burhinus Grallarius
Also called bush stone-curlews, these distinctive long-legged shorebirds are endemic to Australia. Pelican Pond
We arrived at the pelican pond just before feeding time; … Pelican Portrait
… that gave me the chance for a closer look at the textures in that extraordinary beak with its hook, and the bird’s feathers. Pelicans Feeding
The birds were too fast for me to catch the flying fish thrown by the keepers … Those Bills!
… but I did get to marvel at those amazing beaks! Little Wattlebird – Anthochaera Chrysoptera
Zoos always attract local, non-captive visitors. Little Penguins – Eudyptula Minor
It may well be anthropomorphising, but there is something about the antics of the native-Australian fairy penguins that always makes me smile! Those Eyes! Those Lashes!!
Domesticated thousands of years ago for their wonderful wool, the faces of South American alpaca (Lama pacos) have to be part of their appeal. African Wild Dog – Lycaon Pictus
That is the shade of perspex between us and the painted dogs; today they roam wild(er) in the affiliated Monarto Safari Park. Malayan Tapir- Tapirus Indicus
Endangered in the wild, Asian tapirs are the only tapir species outside of the Americas – and with their three back toes and long proboscis definitely qualify as odd-looking and unique! Frog with a Reptile Keeper
We made a point of arriving at the reptile house in time for the keeper presentation. I didn’t take notes, but I think this is a magnificent tree frog (Ranoidea splendida). Blue-Tongued Skink
Every Australian is familiar with the friendly blue tongue lizard (Tiliqua scincoides). Yellow Corn Snake – Pantherophis Guttatus
These colourful beauties, on the other hand, are dangerous invaders, and are illegal to import or own domestically. Magpie-Lark – Grallina Cyanoleuca
As we are leaving, we come across another pretty little uncaged native bird. It was a most enjoyable way of spending a few hours.
 Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 08February2014
Posted in Animals,Australia,TravelTags: Adelaide Zoo,animals,Australia,blog,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,zoo
Across the Jordan River Valley
From Mount Nebo in Jordan’s Abarim mountains, one has extensive views over the dry and rugged landscape that is the backdrop to some ancient bible stories. It is a truly biblical landscape.
Referenced in the Old Testament, it was on this rocky desert terrain that the Hebrew prophet, teacher, and leader Moses walked, gave sermons, and ultimately died.
Moses is considered the most important prophet in Judaism and one of the most important personages in Christianity, Islam, and other Abrahamic religions. He reputedly led his people out of slavery. He is credited with writing the Torah (the first five books of the Hebrew Bible) and is said to have received the Ten Commandments from God at Mt. Sinai. Here at Mount Nebo, God putatively granted Moses a view of the Promised Land before his death.
And what a view it is!
On a clear day, you can see across the Jordan River Valley and the Dead Sea to the Palestinian city of Hebron, and to Herodium, which is now an archaeological site named for the palace of King Herod. You can see Bethlehem and Jerusalem and Jericho; familiar names to anyone raised in the Judeo-Christian traditions. You can see Lake Tiberias, perhaps better known as the Sea of Galilee, where much of the ministry of Jesus took place. Later, the Crusaders conquered cities and built castles here (see: Shobak Montreal Castle)
You don’t have to look as far, or as far back as that, to appreciate the magnificent mosaics found here. Housed on Mount Nebo in the archaeological remains of the Byzantine Basilica Memorial Church of Moses, mosaics dating from around 530 CE feature patterns, religious symbols, plants, and animals. In the nearby town of Madaba, the Greek Orthodox Saint George’s Church contains an extraordinary mosaic map depicting Jerusalem and the Holy Lands that was crafted between 542 and 570 CE.
Even when looking across the almost barren, almost boundless land, it is hard to fathom the layers of time and the momentous events that have taken place here, and grown into such legends, told and retold.
Memorial of Moses
The Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land has owned this site since 1932, so it is technically Vatican property. Over the years, extensive excavations, surveys, and preservation programs have been undertaken by archaeologists affiliated with Franciscan study institutes (see: The Memorial Church of Moses). Mosaic from Khirbet al-Mukhayyat (the City of Nebo)
Dated to 565 CE, this is one of the extensive mosaics found in the nearby the Church of St. George, and moved here to the Mount Nebo Memorial access area. This peacock in a grapevine medallion is one of many animals depicted, alongside portraits of the benefactors: that is John, son of Ammonius, in the top right corner. Protecting the Excavated Church Remains
The original church here was built in the second half of the 4th century. Modern exploration of the site began in 1863. When the Franciscans took over, they built a shelter over the archaeological remains to protect them. This one was renovated between 2016 and 2019 CE. Rolling Stone – the Fortified Door
In the forecourt, a rolling stone found nearby at Faysaliyah (Kufer Abu Badd) has been mounted. Tourists and pilgrims are everywhere: Mount Nebo was designated a Millennium 2000 pilgrimage site by the Vatican. Across the Jordan River Valley The Brazen Serpent
This stunning sculpture by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni represents the serpent mentioned in the book of Numbers, entwined with the cross upon which Jesus was crucified. Patterned Mosaic
In the northern hall of the basilica, this patterned mosaic was covering (and protecting) an earlier one, which was found about a meter below. Central Mosaic
Tiled circa 530, the incredible Byzantine mosaic floor in the Diakonikon-Baptistery covered an area of 9 x 3 m. This central section, framed by a chain-style ornamental border, depicts hunting and pastoral scenes. Stained Glass
There are three stained glass windows in the apse of Modern Church of Moses; the middle one shows Moses standing under the Brazen Serpent with his siblings, Aaron and Miriam. Mosaic Sample in the Theotokos Chapel Those Names!
A sign shows the direction to various locations in the Holy Land: Bethlehem is only 50 km (31 m) away. Bits and Columns
Excavations and restorations continue. The Abu Badd – The Rolling Stone
We seem to have outlasted other visitors to the site, and as we make our way back out, I get a chance to photograph that extraordinary Byzantine monastery door without people all over it! Sculpture by Vincenzo Bianchi
Back at the site entry, I have time for a better look at the monolithic sculpture inscribed “Unus Deus, Pater Omnium, Super Omnes” (One God, The Father Of All, Above all). ‘Book of Love Among Nations’
The monument by Vincenzo Bianchi was erected in honor of the visit of Pope John-Paul II in March, 2000. The back is inscribed with author’s names. City Street
It’s a short drive down the hill to Madaba; we get a glimpse of the shops along the way. The Church of Saint George
Our next stop is at the Greek Orthodox Saint George’s Church in Madaba. Saint George’s Church
Built between 1894 and 1897, it has simple lines. Mosaic Map
The church’s simple structure is not its principal drawcard: St George is also called the Church Of The Map. This mosaic map, found in 1894 when the church was being reconstructed, was made between 542 and 570. It the largest mosaic map in the world and the oldest map of Palestine on record. About a quarter of the original two million pieces of coloured stone survive in place. The Mosaic Map Explained
Although the map is detailed and very accurate, it can be hard for us to interpret. It was not designed as a practical road map for pilgrims, instead, it is a complex work of Christian art with layers of embodied meaning. The Apse inside St George “Virgin and Child” “Mary As A Well Of Life” and “St Nicholas”
I’m guessing the mosaics and paintings of icons and saints that adorn the inside of the church are much more recent than the map floor – but I could find no information on most of them. Rugs for Sale
After a morning of biblical history, it was nice to come back to the present, and admire the local craftsmanship. Ceramics for Sale
Naturally, tourists are targeted, … Nuts and Seeds for Sale
… but everyday items are available as well. Shopkeeper
I’m happy to settle for a local smile. The exquisite craftsmanship that went into making those intricate mosaics of the past continues now: Madaba is the hub of mosaic-making in Jordan today and is known as “The City of Mosaics”.
But, it was the history that blew me away.
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 18October2019
Posted in Architecture,History,Religion,TravelTags: history,Jordan,landscape,Photo Blog,religion,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Touching the Sky
This is Heaven! The views of the Annapurnas from the Poon Hill Track are ample reward for a wet two-day trek from Nayapul (see: The Ghorepani Trek) and a hour-long, pre-dawn, up-hill hike from Ghorepani. Pictures don’t do it justice!
There is nothing like being in the Himalaya with magnificent jagged snow-capped peaks rising all around. The rarified spring air, thinned by the altitude (3210 m), and the effort involved in the steep, 1.4 km hike up the hill from Ghorepani in the dark, only add to the feeling of awe as you come out of the wooded trail and watch the sun climb over the jagged peaks.
I had been itching to get back to this paradise since my first visit in 2001 (see: Heaven and Hard Work). For a number of reasons (the murder of the Nepali Royal Family, the Maoist Uprising, and the Gorkha Earthquake, to name a few …), it was many years before I could return.
This trip (2017), coordinated by photographer Gavin Gough with the local guidance of Angfula Sherpa, was almost two years after the earthquake, and the destruction wrought by that event was still much in evidence.
But, equally visible was the progress that had been made – especially around the trekking trails: hot water, light, and wifi were available everywhere. The guest-houses were still simple, but clean and dry. “Clean Food” signs abounded, and a local co-operative meant that all the hotels served the same basic menu at the same fixed price.
When I first trekked these paths, we slept huddled in sleeping bags, in plyboard shelters so thin that the wind blew out our candles. There was no electricity and no plumbing: the outhouse toilets were unspeakable. Food safety was patchy, and our guides restricted what and where we ate, and splashed our hands and dishes before every meal with some sort of liquid that made my fingers crack and bleed. We were practically force-fed tea and soup (coffee was nowhere to be found) to stave off altitude sickness. Of course, there was no wifi, and the only phone line on our seven day trek was at the post office in Ghorepani, where I paid a small fortune for a booked call home on a crackly line.
The easier conditions have led to an increase in trekkers, and the trails – especially at popular places like Poon Hill – are busy.
But, the mountains endure. And are worth every step.
Silhouetted Fir at First Light
If you want to catch a sunrise, you have to start walking in the dark! Daybreak in the Annapurnas
Although Google Maps says it is only a 40 minute walk up to Poon Hill, both my husband I were struggling and probably took longer than that. There was the very real chance that we would miss the sunrise! The Annapurnas
The sky is getting lighter quickly, bringing clarity to the mountains all around. Watch House at the Top
Soon the top of the hill is in sight, but it still looks like a steep climb; … Daybreak in the Himalaya
… which it is – but worth it! Sunlight hits the top of Dhaulagiri (8167m) as we summit. Here Comes the Sun!
The sun rises quickly over Annapurna IV (7525 m) and II (7937m) in the east. Crowd on Poon Hill
There is a crowd at the top of the hill – but it is not noisy: there is a shared sense of joy at the sunrise, and awe at the view over the magnificent Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain ranges. Tired but Victorious
Some occasions are so special they warrant a portrait. Walking Down
After a while, we start making our way back down the hill. Leaving the Watch House Behind
The morning sun casts long shadows as we walk down the slate steps. Cairns and Prayers
The track is lined with cairns and memorial markers. Prayer Flags and Snow
The name Himalaya comes from the Sanskrit words hima (snow) and ālaya (dwelling, abode). In the dark on the way up the hill, I didn’t notice the spring snow on the ground. Prayer Flags
Prayers flutter in the breeze over the watch house Cairns in the Snow Annapurna South and Hiunchuli Dhaulagiri
The Dhaulagiri Range is further away than the Annapurnas, and across Kali Gandaki River and Gorge, but the peaks feels close enough to touch. The Dhaulagiri Mountains
Further down the hill, some of the rhododendron is still in bloom. Hotel Dhaulagiri
From our hotel, we have a view over the streets – where manual labour continues and the corrugated metal roofs I remember now feature modern solar panels. The Annapurnas
The power lines are another new addition. Change is inevitable – and there have been further major changes since we made this trek.
 But, the mountains are timeless and continue.
Namaste 🙏
Photos: 21March2017
Posted in Landscapes,Nepal,TravelTags: Annapurnas,blog,landscape,nature,Nepal,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
A Man and a Wheel
At a marble-tile workshop in Rajasthan, India, an older worker happily poses for photographs. One of the things I love about travelling with a photo group is that you can end up in some strange places that you might otherwise miss. In addition, you spend more time in one spot than you would with a ‘normal’ tour group, giving you a chance to think about seeing things differently and to play around with settings and composition.
I was on the road with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours; we had just spent several days around Pushkar for the annual Pushkar Camel Fair (see: Weekly Wanders Pushkar) and were on our way to Jaipur by road when we stopped in the factory district of Kishangarh.
I – like many others, I am sure – had never heard of this little city in Rajasthan. During the days of the British Raj, Kishangarh was the capital of its own princely state. Today it is known (apparently!) as a center for marble trade.
Rajasthan has India’s richest deposits of marble, producing high-grade stone in a variety of unique colors. Kishangarh has a number of small factories turning out quality industrial-standard refined natural marble, as well as some granite.
Watching how the large sheets of stone were cut into massive slabs or small tiles was fascinating. What I particularly loved – and tried to focus on – was the textures of the old surfaces, the ceaseless movement of the machines, and the constant flow of water. What I couldn’t capture was the noise and heat!
Join me for a workshop visit – just a bit off the usual tourist trail …
Fruit at the Desert Camp
Morning started hot and early at our desert camp near Pushkar. Workshop Entry
It’s about an hour’s drive to these unassuming looking premises in the small city of Kishangarh. I love the textures in the colour-washed walls – even when they are in the shadows. Heat in the Yard
The sun is almost directly overhead; it bounces off the stacked marble sheets and the white dust in the yard. Moving Marble
The sheets of marble look heavy and cumbersome. As hard as marble is, I’m not sure it would survive a drop! Naturally, there is a noticeable absence of protective clothing. A Block of Marble and Wet Machinery
It’s hot, dark, and noisy in the workshop. Granite and marble are hard stones – the blades used to to cut them need a constant flow of water to keep them from overheating. Moving Parts
Texture is everywhere – I love these rusty surfaces. To capture the machine’s movement, I slowed the shutter speed right down – always risky when you don’t have a tripod handy! (ISO 400 16 mm f / 5.6 1/30 sec) Straight Lines
Looking at the ends of a stack of cut slabs, you can see how cleanly the marble block has been sliced into sheets. Geometric Patterns
Open culverts under metal grates carry the milky runoff water from the cutting machines. Splashing Water
Light from the doorways bounces off the wet marble and the spraying water. In addition to keeping the blades cooler, the flow of water reduces friction, dust, and noise. (ISO 200 23 mm f / 9 1/30 sec) Man with a Mallet
That colourful wheel is spinning rather fast: this doesn’t feel like the safest of workplaces! (ISO 400 70 mm f / 3.2 1/60 sec) Man and a Spinning Wheel
With a wider angle lens, I capture the whole wheel and the machine driving it. (ISO 400 16 mm f / 5.6 1/30 sec) Moving Water
The constant flow of waters over the massive blocks of marble has a life of its own; … (ISO 200 17 mm f / 5.6 1/60 sec) Moving Water
… to try and show this better, I created my first gif. What do you think? Through the Water
Two other photo-tour participants watch the process from the other side of the waterfall. Workers inside the Workshop Patterns in the Pieces
Back outside, piles of broken tiles or cut ends are scattered everywhere. Cutting Marble
In a cubby-hole outside, men are cutting sheets of marble into smaller tiles. Again, water is an integral part of the process. Marble Worker
Workers are always ready to take time out for a smile. Men in the Workyard
There is no feel of urgency anywhere in the yard. 
It was a fascinating stop.
Who knew that the making of marble floor- and wall-tiles and countertops was so interesting!
Photos: 14November2013
Posted in environmental portraits,India,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,work
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