One of the (many) delights of sailing is the characters you meet; there is something special about people who sail boats or fly planes.  Often eccentric; always independent – what they seem to have in common is the diversity of their life experiences, the breadth of their interests, and the scope of their practical abilities.  They are resilient, flexible and self-reliant.  Perhaps it is the freedom of being on the water and the challenge of pitting one’s self against the elements that attracts people who prefer to be unfettered and self-sufficient.

The rules of sailing are real: ignore good preparation and good maritime manners at your peril!  As Don Bamford said: “Only two sailors, in my experience, never ran aground. One never left port and the other was an atrocious liar.”  The sailors I’ve met have learned many things the hard way, and their tales of troubles- and disasters-past provide ample entertainment for those long stretches when the sail is set and there is little to do but sit and enjoy the wind and water.

Notice that I didn’t mention the sun!  This is because we saw very little of it during our last two weeks negotiating the waters of the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast peninsula.  We did have some sun, mostly on days when there was little or no wind.  We also had fog, mist, and rain… all the weather that you would expect from a Pacific Northwest autumn. Forecasted winds included regular small craft warnings, while the actual winds ranged from non-existant to almost gale-force, and were invariably icy!

One joy of sailing for me is the quiet.  I love slicing through the water without the benefit of the motor.  I also love sitting in the boat enjoying lunch or coffee ‘heaved-to’ in the middle of nowhere or tied up somewhere peaceful.  Another thrill is the access to wildlife and being able to visit wonderful places that would be otherwise out of reach. River otters frolicked on our dock (and on our boat, at one stage!) and numerous seals bobbed up and down in the frigid waters near us.  The birdlife – some of which I’ve managed to capture this time – was a treat.

Looking back through the photos, what I notice most is the predominant colour theme of each day: one day the green of reflecting waters; another day the grey of cold winds and rain; yet another, the misty blue of foggy firs and mountains.

Pier, Newcastle Island Passage, Nanaimo

A Great Blue Heron Greeted us as we Returned from our Shake-Down Sail.

Reefing the Main: This is usually my job, but I was at the helm of the boat, so shot this (left) through the plastic windshield.

Greens: Natural Sandstone Formation ~ Gabriola Sands Provincial Park, Gabriola Island, BC

Blue on Blue: A Sloop Racing, with the Mountains of Vancouver Island in the Background

Red Fishing Boat: When they clean the fish, the gulls stream behind the boats like a veil on the wind

Full Sail ~ Gray Day

Greys and Glitter: Welcome Pass

Warning Signs: Smuggler Cove Marine Provincial Park (which we also visited by land)

Green: Smuggler Cove

Browns: Seagull, Smuggler Cove, Sunshine Coast, BC

Cormorant on the Rocks: Smuggler Cove

The VERY dodgy wharf at Frenchman's Cove, Halfmoon Bay, Sunshine Coast, makes it a nice quiet spot to tie up.

White, Blue and Black: Thormanby Islands in the Afternoon

Distant Drummer: Moored in Idyllic Secret Cove

A Light in the Fog: Merry Island Lighthouse, Welcome Pass

Chasing the Sun: Racing the Storm back to Nanaimo

Wet and Wild: Wind, Rain and Water...

Batten Down the Hatches! It's Cold and Grey out There!

A Fitting end to our Sojourn ~ A Canada Goose joined us for our last meal on the boat.

“There is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats,” as Ratty said to Mole in Kenneth Grahame’s 1908 classic, The Wind in the Willows.  We had a wonderful time, and might have even learned a thing or two!

Safe Sailing!

  • gabe - October 30, 2010 - 1:07 am

    Best one yet. writing is super as are the photo’s. Loved sharing the experience with you
    XXXReplyCancel

  • Signe Westerberg - November 1, 2010 - 1:54 am

    You guys are amazing, just love your travels, pictures and experiences. Thank you for including me.,.. XXReplyCancel

  • Gavin - November 1, 2010 - 5:36 am

    Enchanting! Beautifully written with great photos. What am insight you’ve given. Keep up the good work. I really look forward to hearing about your future adventures.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 1, 2010 - 5:38 am

      Thanks, you guys! 😀ReplyCancel

  • Ron Tedwater - November 13, 2010 - 3:23 am

    Really nice post,thank youReplyCancel

  • […] Nanaimo sits on the east coast of Vancouver Island: almost due west across the busy Georgia Strait from Vancouver, and an easy northwest sail to the Sechelt Peninsula and its “Sunshine Coast” (see also: “Messing About in Boats”). […]ReplyCancel

The weather in the Georgia Strait region of BC, Canada has been interesting the last two weeks: too cold for most flowers (and me!) but not cold enough to bring out all the oranges and scarlets that autumn is famous for. There have been some sunny spells which don’t actually warm, some icy winds that seem to have blown straight in from Alaska, some bone-chilling rains and some fogs; just about everything except frost or snow. I guess “changeable” would describe the prevailing conditions.

We’re in British Columbia at the moment, sharing our time between the east coast of Vancouver Island and the west “Sunshine Coast” peninsula on the mainland. We are here principally to visit family and to try to hone our sailing skills. We’ve had a couple of nice days on the water (more on that next week) but we’ve had a slight problem: if there is no wind and/or no visibility, then sailing is a bit of a bust! So, we’ve spent a lot more time ashore than we expected to.

This is not at all a bad thing when you are docked near areas of beautifully maintained trails that meander through mixed forests of coniferous and deciduous trees. There are few things I enjoy more than walking, and walking through the woods either side of Georgia Strait has been a sensory joy! The paths are soft underfoot in most places, with only rare birdsong interupting the quiet. The temperate rain forest smells of moss and moisture, overlaid with the sweet smells of cedar, fir, and spruce. In many places, soft autumn light filters through the trees; in other places, the angled light bounces brightly off ponds, lakes or coastal waters. The fading colours of dying leaves intermingle with evergreen greens and the bright reds of holly berries and rosehips.

Cottle Lake, Linley Valley Park, Nanaimo, BC

Ferns, Moss and Cedar in the Temperate Rain Forest of Linley Park

"The Last Leaf" ~ A Lonely Maple Leaf

"The Fallen" ~ Trails Include Elevated Walkways and even Stairs where Needed!

Fir Boughs and their Cones Smell like Christmas!

Pathway ~ Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park

Yellow Maples Catching the Autumn Light

Another Reminder of Christmas ~ Wild Holly Berries

One of the 8.8 Meter 40 Tonne Sandstone Columns Raised from the Sunken Zephyr

Tree Fungus : Sherman Walk, Smuggler Cove Provincial Marine Park

Beaver Dam Damage, Smuggler Cove Provincial Marine Park

Beaver Pond: Sherman Walk, Smuggler Cove Provincial Marine Park

Bullrushes in the Water

Leave Your Mark! Initials in the Arbutus

Moss on the Shady Forest Floor ~ Smuggler Cove Provincial Marine Park

Pine Cone

Uprooted Stump ~ Smuggler Cove Provincial Marine Park

Jay High Up in the Trees... Not a Good Shot, but the ONLY Bird I got Remotely Close to!!

More Autumn Colour: Maples Turning

Rose Hips ~ Sargeant Bay Provincial Park

I hope you are enjoying the colours of your season, where ever you are.

Happy Rambling!

  • Signe Westerberg - October 22, 2010 - 6:53 am

    beautiful… you have such a way of describing the places you go… makes me (almost) feel like I’ve been there…thanks for the share!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - October 22, 2010 - 7:58 pm

      Thanks, Signe! We’ve been having fun. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Gabe - October 25, 2010 - 6:55 pm

    Great fall coloursReplyCancel

  • […] the late 1800s, Newcastle Island was a source of architectural sandstone for large buildings (see: Walks in the Woods), and from the 1920s, pulp stones were quarried for the pulp and paper […]ReplyCancel

The top end of West Virginia is about as far north as you can get and still be in the south.  You needn’t drive many miles to get from wooded, mountainous areas inhabited by tough mountain folk to genteel old towns of stone and brick buildings with iron lattice railings and faux wooden shutters. People decorate their houses according to the season (Hallowe’en at the moment) and sit in rockers on their front porches.  I could imagine shotguns and corn-cob pipes, although I confess I didn’t see any.

Stately Southern Home: Shepherdstown, WV

Hallowe'en Witch/Jack-O-Lantern and Hallowe'en/Thanksgiving Cornucopia

Old Buildings ~ Old Streets: Shepherdstown, WV

Old Buildings ~ Circa 1795 ~ Shepherdstown, WV

Old Shop Fronts and Modern Services ~ Shepherdstown

Jus' Sittin' on the Stoop ~ Shepherdstown

Obviously, new services are readily available behind the old facades, but the area maintains its symbols and its rich history.  The land here was a battleground for both the Revolutionary War and the Civil War, and so is replete with memorials and statues; battlefields and graveyards.

Patriotic Flags ~ Everywhere you Look!

Check your American Bills: the Mason's are Alive and Well

Tribute to Confederate Soldiers and a Building from 1840 : Winchester, VA

As John Denver sang: “Life is old there, older than the trees…”   The song was written at Harpers Ferry, where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers meet and life still imitates art.  Current American arts and crafts are honoured and old buildings and history are maintained.  History lives in the “Upper Town” where people go about their business in buildings dating back to the late 1700’s. The “Lower Town” is a mix of tourist shops and preserved history: Lewis and Clark bought supplies here in 1803 before setting out on their explorations and hardy trekkers walking the 2,178 mile Appalachian Trail stop in today. Less hardy visitors, like myself, drink cappuccino and shop. Antiques are sold alongside American artisan crafts.  “…Younger than the mountains, growing like the breeze.”

History Found: Old Ford, Harpers Ferry WV

HIstory Re-Constructed: As Things were for Lewis and Clark

Fire Hose Wheel, Harpers Ferry, WV

Rail Bridge over the Potomac, Harpers Ferry, WV

Confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, Harpers Ferry, WV

New Artisans work on Old Crafts ~ Harpers Ferry, WV

Beautiful place: almost heaven!  Take me home…  Country roads.

Happy Travels!

  • Guava - October 16, 2010 - 12:18 am

    Nice shots Ursula.

    Regarding Halloween, maybe you remember my “Witch’s Promise” from last year?………….. I have something special planned for this year too….. SLEEP WELL MY DEAR hawaaaaaahahahahahahaReplyCancel

  • Gabe - October 16, 2010 - 3:13 am

    Love the Americana feel and fall coloursReplyCancel

  • Lanfranch - January 11, 2011 - 5:57 pm

    Nice blog! I’d like to visit this part of the US sometimes… it looks so interesting.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 12, 2011 - 12:35 am

      Thanks for stopping by, Lanfranch. This was an amazing area! 😀ReplyCancel

  • History Of Old Ford | FordPhotosBlog.com - April 21, 2011 - 6:31 pm

    […] History Found: Old Ford, ursulasweeklywanders.com […]ReplyCancel

I had some trouble getting into the United States last week.  One of the (many) problems I had was that I didn’t know the name of the city my accommodation was in.  I had the name of the inn, the state and the website, but the immigration officer at Dullas Airport wanted to know the city. I told him it wasn’t in a city: it was in the countryside. “The whole state is countryside!” he retorted.

Turns out, he was pretty right on that score. We are sitting at the north end of the Shenandoah Valley, near Charles Town. This small city, which is still home to the Charles Town Races, was named for George Washington’s youngest brother who built a substantial home there and laid out the town itself in 1780. And there are plenty of other small, historic towns near by. But mostly, there is a lot of countryside!

Into the Woods ~ A Deer at the end of our Driveway

The Hillbrook Inn across the Bull Run Pond

The English Tudor Inn, Built in 1700s

The Last of the Roses as Autumn Weather Bites

One of the Many White Tail Deer on the 17 Acre Property

Wet Wood ~ Ready for Winter

George Washington owned the land the Inn is situated on; but then, it seems he (or his family) owned much of the state! This really is rural USA at its best: we have a horse farm next door, and the surrounding ‘suburbs’ comprise long, immaculate driveways leading to massive two-story gabled houses sitting on five acres of perfectly manicured lawns dotted with stately old trees.  I really need to get out and explore further afield, but in spite of overcast and wet weather, just rambling locally with John Denver’s songs in my head has been a joy.

Makeshift Bridge across the Creek

Neighbouring Home

Milkweed (I think! If it isn't, tell me.)

Thoroughbreds and Fillies Next Door

Curious but Timid Filly comes to Check us Out!

Autumn Sky over One of the Many Large Homes in the Neighbourhood

Today I’m off to visit Harper’s Ferry. Wishing you Happy Rambles!

  • Bryan Zanella - March 17, 2011 - 8:24 pm

    Ursula,
    What wonderful pics of our property!!!
    I hope you enjoyed your stay with us!
    -BryanReplyCancel

    • Ursula - March 18, 2011 - 1:43 am

      Sure did – what a wonderful place! And the FOOD!!!!!! Thanks for visiting the site. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Bryan Zanella - April 1, 2011 - 12:48 am

    Your welcome! Would you mind if I put a pic or two on our website. We are adding a lot of new pages in the near future.ReplyCancel

Old Tree ~ Older Rock

This week we indulged in a quiet weekend at a charming resort in Jomtien, a beach town close to Bangkok.  You know the kind of weekend: eating and drinking punctuated by sitting on a colourful canvas chair on the beach, slathered in sunscreen, saying “Mai Ao” [“No, thank you very much! I don’t want a snakeskin belt/a massage/grilled squid/etc.”] to the veritable stream of hawkers who pass. We were treated to magnificent sunsets (and a sprinkle of rain) with our evening cocktails, but I hadn’t packed my tripod, so the few high-ISO hand-held shots I took don’t warrant sharing.

Mid-Sunday afternoon more rains approached.  Having had our fill of inactivity, we looked at the guidebooks to find somewhere close to visit and decided to explore the “Million Year Stone Park & Pattaya Crocodile Farm”.

Now, you wouldn’t think that a tourist attraction of such note would be hard work to find! We had three maps, a guide book and a GPS in the car with us. Unfortunately, in spite of the Thai map download, the GPS had no idea what we were talking about. The paper maps were not much more help; the park seemed to be somewhere in a vague roadless triangle off the major routes.  The Michelin guide, however, was quite explicit: “9km north by 3. Turn right into 3420.” We weren’t sure if they meant north of centre or north of city limits, but by the time we reached the next town 15 kilometres away, we knew we’d missed the corner. We turned around and tried again – to no avail. No “Stone Park” signs; no highway 3420 markers.

Strange Shapes ~ Carved by Time

I suppose we could have asked someone, but I wasn’t convinced that asking someone about “old rocks” would do it, and I couldn’t remember the word for “million” in Thai. Besides, the weather was lousy, so we weren’t unhappy about driving laps of the highway. We pulled another U-turn and tried again, this time via a new bypass, in case it was the reason our guide book wasn’t getting us there.  One of the things about living in a developing country is that sometimes the “-ing” overtakes you! Buildings come and go; roads morph and move…  Our guide book is over ten years old, and clearly that bypass wasn’t.

Long story short, two hours later we found the park…  thanks to: being able to read Thai, unbelievable persistence, and several more wrong turns and U-turns.  But, it was half an hour before closing and the light was going the way of the tour buses. We decided to come back the next morning on our way home. Now that we knew where it was, we thought the signposting would probably leap out at us, but it didn’t.  Many corners weren’t marked, most signs weren’t in English and we never did find a marker that said “3420”.  Such is life in Thailand… ไม่เป็นไร! Never mind.

"Million-Year Stone Park" Water and Gardens

The park is nice, the stones and the bonsai gardens are beautiful, and the crocodile show would be exciting if you’d never seen one before. (I think I need to do a separate post one day just on animals.) What really amazed me, however, was the workers.  Anyone who has read my first post knows I am impressed by how hard people in Thailand (and other Asian countries) work.  “Hard Yakka”, for anyone who doesn’t know, is “hard work” in Australian vernacular. “Yakka” alone is “hard work” in the Jagera Aboriginal language of Moreton Bay.  It is the best way to describe the hot, heavy manual labour at the park.  Now, you wouldn’t think that million-year-old rocks would be hard work to maintain, but clearly, as you will see from the pictures, it is a big job!

Wet Cement + Hot Weather = Need for Speed

Cement Truck at Work

Bare Feet and Smiles ~ Don't you Love the Protective Clothing?

Buckets on the Move

Here Comes the Boss!

Bonsai and Rocks

I hope your work is not too hot and heavy!