Inside the colourful entry of Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry South India.

Candy-Coloured Entry
Like other Hindu temples built in the Dravidian architectural style typical of Southern India, Vedapureeswarar Temple in Pondicherry is a riot of pastel-coloured Gods and decorations.

India is wildly colourful.

This is true everywhere, but the Dravidian people of South India take it to new whole new levels.

The ethnolinguistic family of people known as the Dravidians are considered native to the Indian subcontinent, although their pre-Neolithic roots are probably in Western Asia, around the Iranian plateau. The language family is at least 4,500 years old – one of the oldest in the world – and split into the variants spoken today across Southern India and Sri Lanka around the 3rd millennium BCE.

The ancient Dravidian religion was animistic and it is believed to have influenced the Hindu scriptures and practices – especially with respect to the concept of divine kingship, the cult of the mother goddess, and the worship of village deities and sacred flora and fauna.

What was most noticeable to me as an outsider, however, was the unique expression of art, architecture, and dance.

In Pondicherry – now more properly known as Puducherry – these rich Dravidian traditions have been influenced by years of colonial rule – first by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the Danes, and more significantly and more recently by the French. This shows up in the architecture of the old city, with French Colonial and Franco-Tamil buildings still standing in White Town, the old French Quarter, and the Tamil Quarter on the other side of the now-empty canal.

But, the influence goes both directions. While the French left behind a strong Catholic minority in Pondicherry and the rest of the south, the construction and decor in the local cathedrals and churches have clearly been influenced by the Dravidian style and colour palate.

I was travelling in Southern India with a small group; we had spent the first part of the morning at Goubert Market before moving on to some of the local architectural treasures: particularly the five-hundred-year-old Vedapureeswarer Temple, rebuilt in 1788 to replace an older one that was destroyed by French troops in 1748. In contrast, the nearby Catholic church, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, is just over 100 years old, having been opened in 1907.

They are equally colourful!

Join us for a tour:

Non-Indian visitors outside Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India

Vedapureeswarar Temple
Our group waits in the street outside Vedapureeswarar Temple. The seven-tiered raja gopuram, the gateway tower, rises to a height of 23 meters (75 ft) and is decorated with a pantheon of Gods and topped by seven golden kalasham, which represent the sun meeting the temple.

Gods in domes on the roof of Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Gods on the Roof
Vedapureeswarar Temple is dedicated to Shiva; he and other Gods are depicted everywhere around the temple, including inside the entry.

Small brass representations of Hindu gods, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Brass Gods
While the main temple is open to the public, parts of it are closed off; …

Small blackened representations of Hindu gods, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Behind the Gate
… small gated alcoves around the outside of the inner courtyard are full of little Gods that have been carefully draped in silks.

Small blackened representations of Hindu gods, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Gold Plaques
People give generously to their temples; each of these offerings probably represents someone’s hopes and prayers.

Metal locked gate, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Locked Gate

Bronze representations of Hindu gods, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Gods behind the Gate
Some of the icons are quite large – and clearly old and precious.

Brass representations of Hindu gods, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Gods in Yellow

Visitors walking inside Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Inside the Temple
The second story of the temple is open to the air outside – but it is hot, still, and fairly dark inside.

Visitors walking inside Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Shiva as Vedapureeswarar
Images of Shiva are everywhere we look.

Front pavilion, Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Candy Colours
The details are amazing, and all tell stories that I can’t interpret. The brassy pole to the right of this image is the base of the dhvajastambha, a flagstaff which is a common feature in South Indian Hindu temples. It is one of the items that symbolically protect the temple sanctuary from the impure and undevoted.

Inside Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Temple Courtyard
The whole complex is enclosed by a granite wall.

A table laden with flower offerings outside Vedapureeswarar Temple, Pondicherry India.

Flowers for Sale
Outside the temple walls, flowers, candles, and other offerings are available for devotees to buy.

Portrait, flower seller, Pondicherry India.

Flower Seller
Even though I have finished my temple visit, and clearly won’t be buying any offerings, the flower seller happily poses for me and my camera.

A South Indian couple sitting on the sidewalk, Pondicherry India.

Rest Break
The city is full of life and colour.

Rusty bicycles stacked up, Pondicherry India.

Bicycles
Many of the streets – and the objects in them – wear a patina of age.

White mandala drawing, Pondicherry India.

House Kolam
The front steps of houses are decorated every morning with fresh designs made from chalk dust or rice flour. A kolam (கோலம்) is a geometric line drawing in a pattern of straight lines, curves, and loops that is thought to bring prosperity to the home.

Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus from the street, Pondicherry, India

South Boulevard
Our next stop is a short distance away, where we alight our bus to visit one of Pondicherry’s most famous landmarks.

Statue of Jesus, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Pondicherry, India

Jesus Calls

Outside the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Pondicherry India

The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus
Built between 1902 and 1908 in neo-Gothic style, the outside of the church is imposing, …

Inside the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Pondicherry India

Inside the Basilica
… but the inside, with its South Indian colours …

Inside the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Pondicherry India

Basilica Dome
… and its stained glass story panels is just jaw-dropping.

Outside the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Pondicherry India

The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus
The church was given Basilica status in 2011. At 50 meters (164 feet) long, 48 m wide and 18 m high, it holds 2000 people, and is thought to be the largest in Pondicherry.

Male shopkeeper in front of shelves of carved rosewood and sandalwood, Pondicherry India

Beautiful Wood
Our last stop before lunch was in an upmarket shop filled with beautiful crafts and fabrics.

Old buildings, White Town, Pondicherry India

Tumbledown Street
Back outside in the pounding sun, the beautiful old buildings of White Town are slowly crumbling into elegant ruins.

I added to my ever-growing collection of elephants and picked up paper maché decorations for my grandchildren.

Sign-Off-Happy-ShoppingFor as wonderful as it is to learn about new places and cultures, taking a little bit of it home is an even greater pleasure!

Photos: 22January2023

Fishing boats in Elounda Harbour, Crete Greece

Boats in the Harbour
The harbour in the little town of Elounda on the picturesque and mountainous northwest side of the Bay of Mirabello in Crete, Greece, is home to colourful fishing boats as well as luxurious tourist craft.

Crete, the southernmost large island of Greece, lives up to its reputation for having a breathtakingly mountainous landscape surrounded by pristine beaches and charming coastal villages.

I booked myself a number of bus tours while I was there, and loved every moment I spent exploring the island.

One of the trips I took was to the ruggedly beautiful and sadly historic rock-island of Spinalonga (see: Colourful Rocks with a Colourful History). After a morning spent walking around the fortress there, we had some time in the delightful villages along the northwestern coast of Mirabello Bay.

Mirabello Bay, or the Gulf of Mirabello/Mirabella, is Greece’s largest bay. On the eastern part of Crete, the waters of the bay lead out into the Sea of Crete on the Mediterranean, which made the region critically important in the earliest days of sail. That is why the outpost at Spinalonga – on that rock in the bay – was originally fortified by the Cretans before the 7th century, and later by the Venetians in the mid-15th century.

At least one of the many beautiful caves around the bay is purported to have been a regular hiding place for the ships belonging to the Ottoman pirates /corsairs, collectively known as ‘Barbarossa’. One or both of these brothers, who were born on the island of Lesbos further north, dominated the trading lines across the Mediterranean for much of the late 16th century.

Today, the bay is home to small fishing fleets and up-market tourist towns. After disembarking our boat from Spinalonga in Plaka, we drove to the town of Kato Elounta (Elouda) for lunch and for some free time exploring. We then drove a short distance south to wander around Agios Nikolaos. This pretty little city is predominantly known as a hub for local tourism: European tourist development in this area took off in the 60’s, after it was used as the location for a number of popular cinematic and television productions.

Come explore!

Gyros with chips wrapped in pita bread, Kato Elounda, Greece

Pita Gyros
This is what ‘fast food’ looks like in Kato Elounda: fresh and tasty meat off the gyros, wrapped in soft pita bread, and complete with crispy chips!

Beach umbrellas and a lifeguard station, Elounda, Crete, Greece

Elounda Beach
It might be September, but the weather is still warm and sunny, and the beaches are busy enough.

Small Elounda street, Crete, Greece.

Elounda Street
It’s a typical Mediterranean scene: orange-tree lined streets backing onto olive-treed hills.

Agios Konstantinos Ke Agia Eleni church in the sun, Elounda, Crete, Greece

Agios Konstantinos Ke Agia Eleni
You are never far from an Orthodox Christian church in Greece.

Dome of the Agios Konstantinos Ke Agia Eleni church, Elounda, Crete, Greece

Tiled Dome

Three colourfully painted disciples, Agios Konstantinos Ke Agia Eleni church, Elounda, Crete, Greece

Disciples Inside

Black iron rails on a white balcony, Elounda, Crete, Greece

Lines And Patterns – a Cretan Balcony
White-washed buildings help beat the heat; wrought iron balcony rails add elegance.

Bird statue, Schisma Eloundas, Greece

Bird Statue
I thought these were doves or pigeons, but Google Maps lists this piece in Elounda Square only as ‘Bird Statue’. I could find no information on the provenance or the significance.

Nikos Koundouros statue, Agios Nikolaos Greece

Nikos Koundouros
This statue in Agios Nikolaos was easier to identify: the Greek painter, sculptor, and film director Nikos Koundouros was born here in 1926.

Boats on Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Boats on the Lake
The centrepiece of Agios Nikolaos is a small lagoon, Lake Voulismeni, which according to local legends is bottomless and connects underwater with the volcano of Santorini. It is deep (64 m / 210 ft) – but not bottomless.

Cat reclining on the foreshore of Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Cat on the Foreshore
The walkway around the lake makes a lovely place to stroll – or nap.

Couple reclining on the stone shelves, Fisherman’s Crypt, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Outside Fisherman’s Crypt
The tiered stone walls outside the little church at the southwest corner of the lake make a shady rest spot to take time out …

Man in a sailing hat with a traditional stringed instrument, foreshore of Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Musician on the Foreshore
… or to play traditional music.

Muscovy ducks, Fisherman’s Crypt, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Ducks outside Fisherman’s Crypt
Muscovy ducks roam freely.

Entry to Fisherman

Fisherman’s Church
The little church here is dedicated to the safety of the local fishermen.

Winged creature carved on the door to the Fisherman’s Crypt, Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Door to Fisherman’s Crypt
I was lucky to find the doors open; behind the church is a dark, tunneled crypt which has been turned into a makeshift ‘museum’.

Looking out from the Fisherman’s Crypt, Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Temple Cave on Lake Voulismeni
Grated windows are the only source of light inside.

Shrine in the Fisherman’s Cave, Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Shrine in the Fisherman’s Cave
The cave houses a shrine and some iconography, as well as some dusty fishing relics.

View over Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Bridge and Buildings on the Lake
Back outside in the afternoon sunshine, my circuit takes me up a steep staircase, which affords wonderful views over the little city.

View over Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Buildings on the Lake
This is a mecca for summer tourism, and the the buildings surrounding the lake all look quite modern and upmarket.

View over Lake Voulismeni, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Boats on the Lake
There are plenty of stylish boats on the water and trendy cafés on the foreshore.

Colourful street corner, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Street Corner

Fishing boats, Agios Nikolaos, Greece

Boats on the Harbour
Back on the main harbour, many of the boats are serious fishing vessels.

The Abduction of Europa statue in Agios Nikolaos, Greece

The Abduction of Europa
A stone slab at the base of this sculpture reads: “Europe is my name I am the daughter of the Phoenician King Aginoras and mother of King Minos creator of the Minoan civilization”. The statue was designed by Nikos Koundouros – whom we saw in the square earlier – and created by Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriades.

Portrait: Olive-oil maker, the Cretan Olive Oil, Lassithi, Greece

Olive-Oil Maker
Our last stop of the day was at the Cretan Olive Oil Farm where we were treated to an explanation of traditional oil production and an extensive tasting experience.

The fresh bread dipped in different mixtures of herb-infused olive oils was very moreish!

And, it’s all a part of a glorious afternoon around Mirabello Bay, East Crete.

Text: Bon Appétit

Until next time,

Bon Appétit!

Photos: 06September2022

Wooden chalets on the Orient viewed from Mount Morrisey, Sun Peaks BC Canada

Sun Peaks
From the flank of Mount Morrisey one has views of the modern chalets on the ski slope across the valley.

There is something charming about a mountain resort village – even in the off season.

Sun Peaks is a popular ski resort in the Monashee Mountains, 410 kilometers (255 miles) east of Vancouver, British Columbia . It boasts the second largest area of skiable terrain in Canada (see: Sun Peaks Resort) and claims to average over 2000 hours of sun a year.

I visited in spring, not winter. And, much of the time I was there, there was little or no sun. But, the air was fresh, the streams were flowing, and the mountain pathways beckoned.

Like many other ski resorts, this area has attempted – with some recent success – to reinvent itself and attract more year-round visitors. Summer bike paths were built in 1999 and an 18-hole golf course was completed in 2005. The village itself has only been incorporated since 2010, but its population more than doubled between the last two censuses, reaching a grand total of 1,404 year-round residents in 2021. 

I was making use of some timeshare points, and found myself in a lovely lodge a short walk away from the quaint main street. Because it was spring (not summer), bikes weren’t available, and the chair lifts weren’t running, which limited my activity choices somewhat. But, there were plenty of trails to walk – allowing me to justify some wonderfully decadent meals in the nice selection of local restaurants. The town boasts just enough inviting shops to make wandering enjoyable.

Join me for some not-so-sunny walks.

Sun Peaks Village in spring, BC Canada

Sun Peaks Village
Summer season was still weeks away, but there were just enough residents and visitors around to keep shops and restaurants open.

Fresh buds on a willow branch, Sun Peaks BC Canada

New Growth
Spring is the time for fresh buds on the willow branches. Patches of snow remain on the ground in the shadows.

Corner tower, Crystal Forest Condominiums, Sun Peaks BC Canada

Crystal Forest Condominiums
Many of the newly-built condominiums and lodges seem to be modelled on European alpine styles (eg: Leysin, Switzerland).

Robin on a gravel path, Sun Peaks BC Canada

American Robin – Turdus Migratorius
I didn’t have much luck with the wildlife; although a mother bear and cubs had recently been spotted, the best I could do was the occasional bird.

View of grassy ski runs on Sun Peaks from the Packhorse Climb, BC Canada

View from the Packhorse Climb
The clue is in the name! It’s a steep hike up the ski runs on Mount Morrisey.

The Village
I hiked up the Packhorse Climb twice – but never made it to the top of Mount Morrisey. I blame jet lag!

Pesto fusilli in a dish, Capones Italian Kitchen, Sun Peaks BC Canada

Pesto Fusilli in Capones Italian Kitchen
I used the walking I did do as an excuse for some wonderful meals …

A 6oz Sirloin with jacket potato and vegetables, Sun Peaks Lodge, BC Canada

A 6oz Sirloin in Sun Peaks Lodge
… and even treated myself to a steak.

Pita Bread sandwich and onion rIngs, Sun Peaks, BC Canada

Pita Bread Chicken ‘Burger’ at Bottoms Bar & Grill
Mind you, the day I swapped out fries for onion rings I could barely walk home afterwards!

Old man

Old Man’s Beard – Usnea
The spring sun doesn’t have much reach, and many of the forest paths are dark and mossy, with ferns underfoot and lichen overhead.

Wild strawberries ion flower, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Wild Strawberries – Fragaria Vesca
I only pulled the car out once all week: that was to drive seven minutes down the road to the Whitecroft Falls Trail Head.

Maple spinners, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Maple Spinners
It is only a short track (1.6 km – 1 mi) running alongside McGillivray Creek, but there was plenty to look at, so I was rather slow.

Dandelions and a small fir tree, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Dandelions and a Baby Tree
Douglas firs regularly live over 500 years – which explains how something this small can grow to 100 metres (330 feet) tall.

Tree trunk, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Birch Bark

Melissa blue butterfly, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Melissa Blue Butterfly – Plebejus Melissa

Heartleaf arnica, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Heartleaf Arnica – Arnica Cordifolia
These cheerful spring-bloomers were everywhere on the forest trails.

Western serviceberry flowers, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Western Serviceberry – Amelanchier Alnifolia
The saskatoon berries were also in bloom on their trees.

McGillivray Creek from Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

McGillivray Creek
Finally! The creek I’ve been hearing along the track finally comes into view. The path is soft underfoot.

Western Red Cedar, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

In the Cedars
The branches of the tall western red cedars (thuja plicata) droop gracefully.

Whitecroft Falls, BC Canada

Whitecroft Falls
The waterfall is small, but very pretty – and the spray splashes high onto the banks …

Carved bench, Whitecroft Falls, BC Canada

Bench
… soaking the ornate wooden bench overlooking it.

Boulders in the white water of McGillivray Creek, Whitecroft Falls, BC Canada

Boulders in the Creek
The waters continue their race downstream.

Trees and boulders on the Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

A Rocky Path
It always surprises me how different the same path looks when you are retracing it!

Oregon grape, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Oregon Grape – Mahonia Aquifolium

Conifer needles, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Nature’s Artworks : Conifer Needles

Trailhead, Whitecroft Falls Trail, BC Canada

Back at the Beginning
The way back was much quicker, and in no time at all I was back at the trailhead.

Text: Happy Walking!

It was a lovely little walk – and a fitting end to a week of pleasant hikes in the woods, along creeks, and across ski hills.

I’m hoping to return some time when the summer ski lifts are operating, opening up a whole new batch of trails.

Until then,

Happy Walking!

Pictures: 19-26May2023 

A date jar inside Jabreen Castle, Oman

Old Equipment inside Old Walls
Two things define the Sultanate of Oman: old forts and dates. I thought this date juice-jar inside the historic Jabreen Castle made a good illustration of this.

If there are two things that define the Sultanate of Oman, it would be old forts, towers, and castles – and date palms.

This relatively small Middle Eastern country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula is home to about 1,000 forts and watchtowers – many of which are open to the public. I didn’t see all of them, but I did visit a few – sometimes more than one a day (eg: Oman’s Fortress Castles)!

Dates are central to the Omani culture and economy. The date palm is the most important agricultural crop in the country, with around eight million trees and 60 different varieties. Historically, in addition to being an important general foodstuff and ritually offered to visitors, they were used to make date syrup, which when boiling, could be poured over would-be attackers.

The historic 17th century Jabreen Castle (حصن جبرين) – also spelled Jibreen or Jabrin – is an example of both ideas. Standing alone in a plain of date palms some distance from the Hajar Mountains, from the outside the palace looks like any of the other blocky Omani fortresses.

Jabreen Castle was built as a palace during a time of peace by a ruler who was passionate about science and art, and includes a madrasa, or school, and a library. But, it is well fortified: with thick defensive walls, soldiers’ quarters, gunnery platforms, and even secret internal hideouts and corridors – which visitors can now explore.

One of the most impressive rooms in the castle is the madbasa – often translated as “date press” – a large, specially constructed space for producing producing date syrup or honey. Bags of dates are piled on an elevated floor in a closed and non-ventilated room with channels grooved into the sloped floor. Gravity squashed the dates and the liquid ran downward to be collected in pots and jars (see: Besides the Obvious: Jabreen Castle). Ingenious!

Come explore:

High-tension power lines, viewed from the car, Dakhiliyah Governorate Oman

Power from the Car
Oman is considered a high income country, with a relatively modern infrastructure. Unsurprising then, that many of the highways are flanked by power lines.

Jabreen Castle from the highway, Oman

Jabreen from the Car
Jabreen Castle (حصن جبرين) – also spelled Jibreen or Jabrin – stands alone in a wide plain, surrounded by date palms.

Cannons at the entry to Jabreen Castle, Oman

Cannons at the Entry
It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it is home to some fascinating architecture and history.

Two Omani men in the entry to Jabreen Castle, Oman

Negotiating Entry
Our guide and driver Said negotiates our entrance fee.

Floor plans of Jabreen Castle, Oman.

Castle Plans
Inside the outer wall, the plans of the castle illustrate its layout. I’m glad we had a guide: it was hard to tell one corridor from another, and even with audio guides, visitors often end up wandering lost.

Arched doorway looking into a courtyard, Cannons at the entry to Jabreen Castle, Oman

Arches
In typical Middle Eastern style, …

Corridors
… arched doorways lead of in all directions.

Inside the main entry to Jabreen Castle, Oman

Inside Jabreen
Although it is built like a fortress, Jabreen is classified as a castle; it was was built in 1670 by Imam Bel’arab bin Sultan Al Yarubi as a palace and a center for knowledge.

Inside the main entry to Jabreen Castle, Oman

Between the Walls
Like other Omani bastions, the castle is a balance of solid defences and elegant lines.

Cannons at the inner entry to Jabreen Castle, Oman

Interior Cannons
A second set of cannons guard the entrance to the main palace.

Wall hangings on a rendered walls, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Simplicity
The rendered walls and rooms …

Old date syrup dispenser, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Old Date Syrup Dispenser
… are decorated with historical objects.

Madbasa, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Madbasa
Dark and airless, a madbasa is a room for extracting date syrup: the liquid once flowed down these old channels to be collected in pots or jars, ready for storage, cooking, or to assist women in labour.

Poster:

‘Horse Trappings’
One of the more unusual rooms inside the castle would have to be the horse stall, one floor up, where the Imam’s horse was housed.

Interior courtyard, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Interior Courtyard
The inner courtyard between the two building blocks is cool and airy – even in the desert heat – with filigreed windows and wooden balconies

Rooftop and surroundings, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Jabreen Rooftop
From the lower rooftop, you can get a sense of the construction of the thick walls, …

View from Jabreen Fort
… and enjoy views over the surrounding plain.

Surroundings from the rooftop, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Flag on the Roof
Date palms extend into the distance.

Sparrows on a perch, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Sparrows
Back inside in the cooler dark of the castle, sparrows are making themselves at home.

Carved and painted ceiling beam, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Carved Beam
Many of the ceilings within the castle are intricately carved and vividly painted.

Decorated ceiling beams, the Whisper Room, Jabreen Castle, Oman

The Whisper Room
Nowhere is this better illustrated than in the little room on the upper level where the Imam held his most secret and confidential meetings: the closely packed ceiling beams helped baffle any sound, preventing anyone outside from listening in.

Rooftop and surroundings, Jabreen Castle, Oman

View from the Upper Rooftop
From the upper roof, the views over the countryside are even better.

Bahla Fort viewed from Jabreen Castle, Oman

Bahla Fort
We had a good view over nearby Bahla Fort and its oasis. Built during the the 13th and 14th century, it is Oman’s largest fort and considered one of the most impressive examples of medieval Islamic architecture. Unesco World Heritage Listed, it was closed when we were in the area.

Upper roof level, Jabreen Castle, Oman from the stairwell.

Looking Out
Entering the special staircase to the Imam’s room, I look back out to admire the lines and contrasts.

Plastered dome-ceilinged corridor, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Domed Corridor
This dark space is beautifully decorated in Islamic fashion …

Plastered dome-ceilinged corridor, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Carved Staircase
… with calligraphy and intricate designs.

Plastered dome-ceilinged stairs, Jabreen Castle, Oman

Beautiful Stairwell
The staircase leading to the Imam’s rooms is functional as well as beautiful: a plank on one of the lower steps makes noise when it is stepped on, alerting people to possible intruders.

Jabreen Castle was restored in the 1980s, and the maze of beautifully decorated rooms and passages are well worth exploring.

I’m just glad I had a guide! I had no idea where I was most of the time – just one of the features that helped keep intruders at bay. 

Text: SalaamPeace reigned here until 1692, when the Imam’s brother and a large army laid siege. The Imam prayed to Allah for death, and is interred inside the castle he built, in a corner that was his favorite place of prayer.

Pictures: 23October2019.

Mosses and ferns on the tangled trunks of rhododendron trees, Tadapani, Nepal.

Tangled Trunks
I kept imagining Red Riding Hood and the wolves and goblins of old fairy tales as I walked through the cool, mossy, rhododendron forest near Tadapani, Nepal.

I’ve said it before: walking through the rhododendron forests of Nepal is like being in the enchanted world of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale (see: Waterfalls, Mystic Forests, And Clouds). The colours and textures of the trees, the mosses, and even the damp and rocky pathways captured my attention and imagination. 

The rain had stopped and the skies were clear. It was late March and the tall and twisted trees were in bloom with Nepal’s national flower, the lali gurans, or red rhododendron. Considered a welcome sign of spring, the 30-odd species of lali gurans that are native to the central and eastern hills of Nepal are a subset of the much larger rhododendron arboreum family. Thriving at altitudes between 2000 m (6500 ft) and 3900 m (1300 ft) in the Himalayas, they are a welcome sight to trekkers.

My husband and I were on Day 5 of a slow circuit trek in the Annapurnas under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa: from Nayapul to Ghorepani/Poon Hill and Ghandruk. Most of our small group were on the slippery side of middle-age, and most of us were carrying heavy camera equipment, so the magnificent mountain and forest views were a welcome excuse to stop, take photos, and admire the scenery!

Sunrise view of Machapuchare from Tadapani Nepal.

View from our Terrace
I have set my alarm early so that when I exit our Tadapani guesthouse room onto the terrace, I can watch the skies lighten over Fish Tail (Machapuchare).

Sunrise view of Annapurna South and Machapuchare from Tadapani Nepal.

Sunrise on Annapurna South and Machapuchare
What could be better than being treated to this view?

Roof of a Tadapani guesthouse with rhododendron flowers and snow-capped mountain behind, Nepal

Prayer Flags, Roof Tiles, and Rhododendron Flowers
It is now 6:30 on a spring morning. The world behind me seems to drift off into a dream.

Shadow silhouette on a Tadapani guesthouse room door, Nepal

“Good Morning, Tadapani!”
I pause for a quick selfie before going back in to pack for the day.

The snow-capped top of Annapurna South from Tadapani, Nepal

Annapurna South Looms Large

Trekking map board, Tadapani Nepal

“You Are Here”
There are regular trekking map boards along these popular routes.

Flowers in the rhododendron trees, Tadapani Nepal

Flowers Overhead
We head off, south east into the forest. There are rhododendron flowers in the tall trees overhead, …

Rhododendron flower petals on the ground, Tadapani Nepal

Flowers Underfoot
… and even more petals on the ground.

Trekking path through rhododendron trees, Tadapani Nepal

Path Winding Through the Trees

Nepali woman with a basket of wood on a head strap, Tadapani.

Heavy Load
We have the luxury of walking these tracks for pleasure; local people use them to meet their daily needs, …

Nepali men with large backpacks, Tadapani.

Porters on the Path
… or to make a living transporting tourists’ belongings.

The base of a rhododendron tree covered in flower petals, Tadapani Nepal

Nature’s Still Life : Colour and Texture

A purple leaf on a rhododendron, Tadapani Nepal

Fallen Leaves

Shaggy bark on a rhododendron trunk, Tadapani Nepal

Shaggy Bark
Everywhere I look, the colours and textures grab me.

Green moss on a rhododendron tree trunk, Tadapani Nepal

Mossy Trunk

Green moss on a rhododendron tree trunk, Tadapani Nepal

More Colour and Texture

Fallen leaves and a rhododendron flower in long grass, Tadapani Nepal

Fallen Flower in the Grass

Moss-covered rocks and tree trunks, Tadapani Nepal

Rocks and Trunks
The moss on everything makes the scene magical to me.

A fern leaf in the light, Tadapani Nepal

Light on the Leaf Spores

Flowers in the rhododendron trees, Tadapani Nepal

More Flowers

Two Nepali men walking down into Bhaisikharka, Nepal.

Going Down
It is always a relief when the path drops down instead of climbing!

Two Nepali men walking down into Bhaisikharka, Nepal.

Into Bhaisikharka
It is even better news when it becomes obvious we have reached a town! Chances are good that we’ll stop for food.

Young Nepali man in front of a mixed-goos store, Bhaisikharka Nepal

“Welcome to Bhaisikharka!”
The other great pleasure of reaching a town is chatting with the locals.

Portrait: Young Nepali man in a backwards cap, Bhaisikharka, Nepal.

Young Man
I’m always impressed by how willing people are to have their picture taken.

Text: Happy Walking!

It wasn’t yet 11:00 o’clock, but we had been up early – and I am always ready to eat!

But, I knew we’d be on our way again soon to finish our walk for the day (Watch this Space!).

Until then,

Happy Walking!

Photos: 23March2017

  • Gavin - July 14, 2023 - 9:13 am

    Magical memories!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 14, 2023 - 12:17 pm

      It’s always lovely to see you here; good memories indeed!ReplyCancel