Take isolated communities growing rice and raising cows and chickens in rural Cambodia where few roads reach, and you have a need. Take some rail track in disrepair, a bamboo raft and a small motor and you have a solution.
Meet “The Bamboo Railway”: the ear-splitting, bone-rattling, wind-in-your-hair, bushes-in-your-face solution to transporting goods and people from Battambang to points south and back again.
The "Norry" or Bamboo Rail Car is Powered by a Small Motor
Metal Wheels on the Rail Line
Holding the whole thing together with bent metal rail ties...
The Smoking Man: Our Driver is a Cool Dude
During their colonial rule, the French put 400 miles of rail line across Cambodia, but the years of war, civil war, and general instability since they departed the country in 1953 have taken their toll. Although the Khmer Rouge were overthrown by the Vietnamese in early 1979 after a four-year reign of terror, they continued to wage guerrilla war throughout the country into the late 1990s, making the railway one of their targets. They planted land mines along the rail lines (and elsewhere, of course) and frequently ambushed trains. Conventional trains have run only irregularly for years, and passenger trains stopped completely over a year ago. Since the first rails were laid in the 1920s, ingenious locals have braved the hazards of oncoming locomotives and potential mines to use the lines to advantage.
Our trip to the railway had been organised by our able photo-tour/workshop leader Karl Grobl. We left our comfortable beds at our delightful hotel in Battambang at six am – that’s six am – and climbed into local tuk-tuks to arrive at the local ‘train station’ – a loose collection of bamboo and wooden buildings on a dusty road – in time to watch the ‘norries’, or rail-riding platforms, be put together. It’s simple really: lift two metal wheels welded to an axle wide enough to fit the rails onto the track in pairs. Rest a bamboo platform on top. Fix a small motor to the rear axle with a fan belt that passes through a hole in the bamboo, and you are set. Passenger ‘norries’ come with a cushion for comfort – if you are lucky.
All you need is a small motor, a fan-belt and a little push, and you are off!
Speed! We rattled and bumped, being whacked by bushes, at speeds of up to 50km/hour.
As rail lines weave and wobble toward the norry in the distance, goods wait at the side of the track.
Endless rice patties, Battambang Province
Apparently, you can ride bamboo trains all the way to Phnom Penh. I have no idea how far we went because none of the ‘towns’ we stopped were signposted in English, and I know they are not on my map. We bumped past countryside uninterrupted by roads, enjoying the cooling wind in the already hot, humid morning and getting a wonderful view into a world less-travelled by tourists. Everywhere we stopped, people were happy to come out to greet us, and to allow us to photograph daily life.
A kitten and her friends welcome us to some small hamlet in Battambang Province
Light ~ Dark ~ Heat : Bringing in the Rice
Washing the Morning Dishes
This woman keeps the accounts at the local rice storage shed.
Piled Passengers in a Tractor Transport
Small Town Shopkeepers
Roadside Laundry. Note the glass bottles of gasoline/petrol behind her.
Hulling the Rice Harvest
Local Barber Shop
To accommodate two-way traffic on a single line, Norry courtesy dictates that when two carriages meet, the one with the lighter load leaves the track. Drivers and passengers pitch in to disassemble and reassemble the norries to allow passage. This process was surprisingly quick.
"Incoming!" An over-loaded norry gets right of way...
The lighter load stands aside, off the tracks, to allow passage.
Tourist norries are easy to off-load, as there is nothing on them but people!
Rebuilding the norry takes only a few moments.
No whistle... No bell... The only choice is to wait until the cows wander off...
"Don't look down!"
The Bamboo Railway is technically illegal, and clearly there is no Occupational Health and Safety committee supervising its operation! There is rumour that the rail line is going to be repaired and ‘proper’ trains will run again. But, this is Cambodia, and these things take time…. Until the repairs happen, the norries and their resourceful drivers are filling a local need and bringing in tourist dollars.
Riding the Rails!
I had a wonderful morning ‘riding the rails’, but as soon as we stopped moving, the heat and humidity enveloped us like a fog. I had to keep reminding myself that it wasn’t yet 8:30am. The six am start to our day was starting to make sense, and I could only sympathise with those who had to ride the bamboo rails through the midday heat.
[…] For additional images and information about the bamboo train, you might enjoy these two other blog posts; the first from a 2010 blog post here and another from 2011 Angkor Photo Workshop participant Ursula Wall, which can be seen by clicking here. […]ReplyCancel
April of 2010, I spend a magical three days in Varanasi, India, with photographers Gavin Gough and Matt Brandon. One of the ‘homework’ tasks they gave us was to make a themed Soundslides presentation.
The Hindu faithful recognise the integration of five elements: earth, air, water, fire and spirit. I was fascinated by the use of fire in the daily observances that are conducted everywhere along the Ganges River. From pre-dawn until after dark, ritual fires burn in Varanasi to pay tribute to the Mother Ganges.
Here is my depiction of the Faith Fires in Varanasi.
I’m in Cambodia at the moment with four gifted professional photographers and thirteen talented amateurs. All I can say is this: Thank heavens I’m not taking pictures for my living! It’s not that my photos are bad – well, not all of them – it is just that those taken by everyone else are extraordinary.
Khmer Gods line the right side of the bridge to South Gate, Angkor Thom, 12C
Our photographic mentors and tour leaders, Karl Grobl, Gavin Gough, Marco Ryan and Matt Brandon have kept us busy chasing light in what can only be described as an aspiring photographer’s paradise: gentle, smiling, photography-friendly people, impossibly green landscapes, and the mystical, magical ruins spanning 400 years of Khmer civilisation. Week one of our trip, which we spent in and around the temples of Angkor, culminated in a program of slides showcasing everyone’s photo-stories. The themes of the stories demonstrated the breath of our group: there were stories about temples, about people’s lives, about tattoos, about the arts, about tuk-tuks and their drivers, etc. Mine was on schooling and education (no surprise to anyone who knows me) and I’ll probably share bits of that in weeks to come.
Our schedule has been gruelling, as we have alternated between the classroom and location shoots. Any free time I’ve had has been spent trying to come to grips with new technologies, which are always two or more steps ahead of me, and dealing with temperamental computer systems, which have been threatening to fail. So, I’m running… I guess I’ll process it all (photographically and metaphorically) when I return home next week.
In the mean time, I’ll share some of the faces of Bayon and the South Gate, Angkor Thom.
Gods on the Right... South Gate, Angkor Thom, 12C
Demons on the left... South Gate, Angkor Thom, 12C
Workers in the middle... South Gate, Angkor Thom
Golden Pheasant Long Boats, Angkor Thom Moat
The Bayon-style (1181-1243) South Gate stands twenty-three meters high. The faces look out over King Jayavarman VIIs domain in all four directions. Angkor Thom.
We visited the Bayon temple in Angkor Thom on two separate occasions, and I never tire of it. My problem is deciding which of the almost-exactly-the-same pictures to select and keep!
Paying tribute to a pantheon of gods from Hinduism and early Buddhism, the Bayon was built in the early 1200's. Thirty-seven of the original fourty-nine (or fifty-four?) Bayon towers are still standing.
In the Bayon, you are surrounded by the enigmatic smiles of the Bodhisattva of Universal Compassion. No one is sure exactly how many faces there are!
The smiles of the temple workers are just as warming.
Lighting the Temple Fires
Candle Light and Incense Burning
One of several Buddhist shrines hidden in Bayon's maze.
Buddha's Blessings
Student Worker, Bayon
More Smiles: Beetle-nut Granny and Bodhisattva
Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva, the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of Compassion
Last smile of the Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva 'Lokesvara' for today...
Entry to the temples is free to Cambodians and it is nice to see families enjoying their heritage.
Tuk-tuk drivers rest until their customers return from the temples
Until next time, may you keep smiling and may the Bodhisattva smile on you.
Ursula, you’re absolutely correct. Never get tired of the photo’s. I especilly like the photo of the keeper of the light, the laughing elderly lady and the two boys at the end. The perspective behind them is cool. Way to go.ReplyCancel
I have come to love my Friday morning trips to unknown places, well unknown to me that is. What a wonderful way to start my day, enjoying the wonderful photo’s and the magic descriptions. I am blessed, thank you.ReplyCancel
Ursula -July 21, 2011 - 11:58 pm
Heartfelt thanks to my two most vocal readers! I’m so happy to have you both along. 🙂ReplyCancel
“Try to focus on one thing – it could be one colour, one idea, any one thing, really,” instructed our photo-tour guide Gavin Gough. “Don’t just wander around taking pictures of everything!”
Young Thai Eating Breakfast, Yaowarat
Now, I have enormous respect for Gavin, Bangkok-based travel photographer and teacher extraordinaire, but I was about to head into Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown, for the morning with a small group of other aspiring photographers. Trying to follow the advice to ‘focus’ in this richly textured neigbourhood, seemed an impossible task! For me, being in Chinatown with a camera is a bit like being a kid in a candy store. The environment is a sensory feast: chaotic colours are piled on top of each other in narrow shops and in bins on any available pavement; the heat and humidity are pervasive, accentuating the humming energy and the somewhat claustrophobic atmosphere; the noise of machinery combines with chatter and barter in several languages; shoppers jostle with tourists, giving way to motorcycles and coolies with over-laden trolleys. Ido feel the impulse to photograph everything!
Luckily for me, the first exercise Gavin gave us was to shoot some black and white frames with a wide angle to try to draw attention to one thing. This exercise quieted my humming senses, and my target for the day came to the forefront: I decided that that I would focus on the people .
So, here are a few of the people of Bangkok’s Chinatown, going about their daily business.
Motorcycle taxi drivers in their candy colours wait for customers.
A labourer at the peanut- and rice-seller's shop takes five.
Proud owner surveying his domain ~ He offered us delicious samples of his peanuts, rice and fruit.
Break time is over ~ and the labourer is back to work moving peanuts.
Smiling while he works: another labourer moving more peanuts.
Three children of local shop-keepers pause from their colouring to give me big smiles.
In the Madding Crowd ~ People Everywhere!
An enormous Lady Luck welcomes you into the area.
It might be early morning, but some workers have had long nights!
It's hard to stay engaged when you have no customers!
A matriarch keeps an eye on proceedings.
Cleaning fresh fish for sale, Yaowarat
Scaling the fish, Yaowarat
Bagging Loquat (Japanese medlar, Nispero) for desserts.
I asked this woman selling chicken feet how long she'd been working in the markets... I didn't want to do the impolite thing and ask her age!
Sixty years, she told me. She started work as a young girl, bagging spices.
A young man looks out between the birds at the Chinese duck noodle shop
Having reached the end of Chinatown, we climbed in a tuk tuk for the short ride back to the pier.
The Sun has Set, Wat Arun, Bangkok
Later that evening as we had drinks watching the darkness descend over Wat Arun, I couldn’t help but think about the variety of people, activities and occupations in that one small area in Yaowarat. Our daily lives are all so different, but with a little bit of work, they can all fit together.
Where ever you are, whatever you are doing, happy travels!
Love this series, some really tremendous environmental portraits. I have booked a few nights at a hotel in Chinatown, as each time I visit it never seems long enough.ReplyCancel
Ursula -July 15, 2011 - 11:46 am
Hi Guava! Thanks so much for your comments. Chinatown is, indeed a feast!ReplyCancel
Perhaps it’s me but two things stand out in these pictures, the older women who are so poised and the smiles. A quick walk around Liverpool wouldn’t bring such a thought of joy as you work, yet these hard working humble people seem to make the most and best of everything they do, which is something to be admired. Thank as always for sharing your travels, love it!ReplyCancel
Ursula -July 15, 2011 - 2:04 pm
Too right, Signe! People work long and hard, often under uncomfortable and/or unsafe conditions – and usually with a smile and good humour!ReplyCancel
gabe -July 14, 2011 - 11:35 pm
Lovely work sweetie. Love the smiles even after ten years in Bangkok they always seem genuine.ReplyCancel
[…] and a wander into the always-photogenic Chinatown, better known locally as Yaowarat (see: A Day in the Life). Our aim was to find Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara, which neither of us had […]ReplyCancel
The English word ‘souvenir’ comes from the same word in French; in French le souvenir can be the memory itself, or, as it is in English, the keepsake in which the memory is signified. Photographs are my mementos, my souvenirs, but some of my clearest memories of our long walk in the Pyrenees never made it onto the camera.
Mealtimes, for example.
In Granès, on the eve of our sixth day, we dined at long tables with a dozen or so French-speaking horse-riding tour-guides! A circuit of les “Châteaux Cathares” (the “Cathar Castles”) is often done by horseback and our lodging in Granès is a common transfer point. We happened to be in town on the same day as the end of one equestrian circuit and the start of another, so there was lively conversation around our table: amongst the two sets of guides, who came from all over France, and ourselves, when my French could keep up. I’m not sure if it was all the wine, or trying to process the crossfire of conversation in a language that I struggle with, but the next morning as we set off again, my head was still buzzing with a pastiche of sound snippets and image fragments from the night before.
Granes (with or without its accent grave è) wakes up slowly as the cavaliers (horse riders) get together to plan their day.
The first half of our walk was through woods and countryside, interspersed with tiny villages. Granès had a population of only 124 people in 2007, and the nearby towns are of similar sizes. In the morning, although part of our walk was on bitumen, the only vehicle we passed was the regional mail van, and the only others we noticed were tractors in the fields and a Citroën, parked in its old garage.
Small Flowers on the Forest Floor
Roses in the Garden ~ Saint Ferriol
Old Citroën; Old Garage ~ Sant Ferriol (Population 142)
Cypress (Cupressus) Trees ~ Domaine Sainte Eugénie
Checking the Maps and Notes ~ Saint-Julia-de-Bec (Population 119)
Daisies on the Verge ~ These always remind me of childhood trips to Stanley Park (Vancouver): I'd look for the pinkest daisy I could find, but when I picked it, it would look plain white.... Just another of the many plants that look best where they grow naturally!
Les Chevaux - Horses ~ Saint-Julia-de-Bec
Gorse on the Verge ~ Saint-Julia-de-Bec
Spring Apple Blossoms ~ Saint-Julia-de-Bec
Next Year's Wine? New Vines
Tiny Wildflowers in the Wind
Last season's last oak leaf clings to the branch amid new growth: This made me think of the O. Henry short story: "The Last Leaf"
Looking Down from the Col de Quilles (Ninepins, Skittles) to Belvianes-et-Cavirac (Pop. 285)
Quillan ~ Old Ruins, Newer Town
Castle Walls ~ Quillan Castle Ruins
I thought these were lilacs, but on closer inspection, they are more like a pea, broom or gorse.
Quillan and the River Aude from the Castle
Le Pont Vieux; The Old Bridge (11-12th Century) over the River Aude ~ Quillan
For us, one of the nicest things about this day was that the Trip Notes were relatively believable! After the five hours suggested walking time, we were actually sitting in the sun in the centre of Quillan, drinking coffee and beer, and people watching.
Because Quillan is a town of reasonable size (population 3,406 in 2007) we were booked into a hotel and needed to find our own dinner. We were reading the ‘Specials’ outside an Italian restaurant when the owner leaned out of an upstairs window and directed us to the English menu on the opposite side of the sign-board. He knew no self-respecting French person would be reading a dinner menu at only six in the evening! They wouldn’t even be open for another hour, so we sat outside the tabac downstairs for some kir, and some more people watching. A sketch artist would have had a field day – though many many of the resulting drawings could easily be mistaken for caricatures.
It was the Saturday eve of Palm Sunday, and a parade of residents filed past us on their way home after church, clutching small boughs of greenery representing palms. Old men in battered felt hats and shiny grey suits shuffled along side matronly women in black dresses, black sweaters, and kerchiefs. An impossibly thin, tall woman with her grey hair pinned in a perfect french roll, wearing oversized pearls and a cream and navy wool suit, circa 1960’s, crossed the plaza with her friends, similarly decked out in Sunday best that looked as if it had been washed, polished and mended every week for forty-plus years. In ancient times, Quillan was a major stop-over between Carcassonne with Perpignan. Today, the population is not only reducing with each census since the mid-seventies, it is ageing significantly and a staggering 17% of residents are 75 or older.
The evening ‘bar’ crowd sharing the tabac with us were of two different groups, distinct from the church-attenders. A small group of round-faced middle-aged male British expats with large bellies and large beers alternated between their outside smoking table and watching the soccer match on TV indoors, while a larger loose group of Hispanic-speaking itinerant workers came and went, kissing cheeks with each other, sitting, sharing news, smoking gitanes and drinking pastisse (the ubiquitous anisette liquor) before kissing cheeks again and moving on. Resembling gypsies of old, these people all had black hair, dark colouring, and handsome angular features. One bent-over tiny old man with a wizened face, tattoos, earings and dread-locked hair limped in with his large pack and medium-sized dog, like a character out of a French version of Charles Dickens.
How I would have loved to have taken pictures!
But, sometimes it does not feel appropriate to ask. More mental images that never made it onto the camera ~ mes souvenirs ~ my memories.
the book titled “as I walked the world’ should have quite a bit of material now….what magical stories and events. SO very much appreciate the share… be wellReplyCancel
Ursula -July 8, 2011 - 12:49 am
Ha Ha Ha!!! Know any good publishers? 😀ReplyCancel
gabe -July 14, 2011 - 11:36 pm
I think Signe is on to something for publicationReplyCancel
[…] was the first morning of the second half of our walk through the Cathar Castles of the Pyrenees. I have written before about the colourful characters that inhabit the region, and once again we were to find the people on the road every bit as fascinating as the area’s […]ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
what an amazing exitence…what amazing people
Hi Signe,
Quite something, isn’t it? Sorry to not be there on time for your Friday morning!! Had a really busy week. 😉
[…] has written a terrific blog about the train and our morning – please check it out . . . https://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/travel/riding-bamboo-rails-the-bamboo-train-battambang-cambodia/. Battambang Bamboo Train Battambang Bamboo Train – Life Along the Tracks Battambang Bamboo Train – […]
You have really interesting blog, keep up posting such informative posts!
[…] For additional images and information about the bamboo train, you might enjoy these two other blog posts; the first from a 2010 blog post here and another from 2011 Angkor Photo Workshop participant Ursula Wall, which can be seen by clicking here. […]
[…] For more information about the Bamboo Train, click the link to a story by 2011 Angkor Photo Workshop participant Ursula Wall. […]
[…] Riding Bamboo Rails (Ursula Wall) […]