Fairmont Château Lake Louise through the trees, Alberta Canada.

Fairmont Château Lake Louise
Originally built as a luxury destination hotel by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the early 1900s, the Château Lake Louise stands as a stately beacon to days gone by.

Lake Louise in Alberta’s Banff National Park has always held an attraction for me. When I was a child, we would camp in the vicinity regularly. Many years later, my husband and I treated ourselves to a winter stay at the majestic Fairmont Château Lake Louise and I was able to introduce him to this beautiful area.

This last Northern summer, as part of a Western Canadian road trip (see: A Mountain Village in Spring), I stayed in the township of Lake Louise for a few days: not in the luxurious Château, but in the more modest Lake Louise Inn downtown. Naturally, the first thing I did was check out the walking trails. I discovered that the Louise Creek Trail would take me up to the Château and allow me to revisit my memories.      

AllTrails call it a “moderately challenging” 6.9 kilometre (4.3 mile) “out and back” trail; I clocked 14.71 kilometres (9.1 miles) on my walking app, and was very ready to put my feet up at the end. But, it’s a delightful climb along the rushing creek – and to see the magnificent hotel at the end was a real treat.

Join me for a walk in the Canadian woods:

Lake Louise Inn, Banff National Park, Canada

Lake Louise Inn
Encircled by the majestic Canadian Rockies, the Inn is a sprawling accommodation a short walk from town centre.

Columbian Ground Squirrel, Lake Louise Canada

Columbian Ground Squirrel – Spermophilus Columbianus
There is plenty of wildlife around the grounds.

Bow River, Lake Louise Alberta Canada.

Crossing the Bow River
Originating here in the Canadian Rockies, the Bow River winds through the National Park and the Alberta foothills towards the South Saskatchewan River to the east.

Treed island in the Bow River, Lake Louise, Canada.

Island in the Bow
From the highway bridge, there are beautiful views upriver, …

Trees along the Bow River, Lake Louise, Canada.

The Bow from the Bridge
… and down.

Trail markers, Lake Louise Alberta Canada

A Fork in the Trail
The trails are well marked – but some are closed off for the season.

Louise Creek Trail into the woods, Alberta Canada

Louise Creek Trail
My trail leads off into the woods, …

Small purple orchids, Louise Creek Trail, Alberta Canada

Small Orchids
… with small flowers in the leaf litter at the sides.

Louise Creek in the woods, Alberta Canada

Tumbling Water
Most of the trail follows the creek …

Louise Creek in the woods, Alberta Canada

Louise Creek
… which rushes down to reach the river.

Stairs up, Louise Creek Trail, Alberta Canada

Stairs over the Highway
The trail leads up …

Tunnel, Louise Creek Trail, Alberta Canada

Tunnel
… and then under the highway.

Louise Creek in the woods, Alberta Canada

White Water in Louise Creek

Green leaves against the light, Louise Creek Trail, Alberta Canada

New Growth

Winding Louise Creek Trail, Alberta Canada

The Winding Path

Deer Lodge, from Louise Creek Trail, Alberta Canada.

Deer Lodge
The trail approaches the highway, and buildings come into sight.

Fairmont Château Lake Louise at the end of a curving drive, Alberta Canada.

Château Lake Louise
Finally! The château rises up at the end of a long driveway.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel on a rock, Lake Louise, Canada

Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel – Callospermophilus Lateralis
Small ground squirrels run around the property …

Golden-mantled ground squirrel on a rock, Lake Louise, Canada

Curiosity
… and look to see if food is on offer.

Tourists and a small bridge, Château Lake Louise, Alberta Canada

The Bridge
There are a lot of tourists around, and the day-carpark is full.

Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Alberta Canada

The Lake
The glacial waters stretch out to the mountains …

Red canoes on Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Alberta Canada

Canoes on the Lake
… and are full of boaters.

Louise Creek in the woods, Alberta Canada

Water on the Rocks
The way back seems shorter than the way out, …

Treed island in the Bow River, Lake Louise, Canada.

Back on the Bow
… and before long I was on the bridge over the river.

Text: Happy Walking!What a beautiful place for a walk!

I loved every minute.

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Photos: 27May2023

Walkers through the canyon of Samaria Gorge, Crete, Greece

Walkers in the Canyon
The hike through the Samaria Gorge, in the rugged mountains of southern Crete, is stunning – but exhausting. I was told it was 18 kilometres (11 miles) in length – but with the hills, and the extra walk to town, my walking app logged 32 kilometers!

I have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew. This is never more obvious than when I select walks to do while I’m travelling.

Take Crete, for example: on my first day on the ground after many hours in transit, I had booked myself onto a bus trip that included a 7.6 kilometre (4.6 mi) hike with a 270 m (886 ft) drop and rise (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest). Add a midday Mediterranean sun and I turned tomato-red and thought I was going to die!

Naturally, I did not learn my lesson. Three days later, I was on another bus, heading to the top of the Samaria Gorge – also in southern Crete. AllTrails, who are known to underestimate rather than overestimate difficulty, list this as a 14.5 km (9 mi) ‘challenging’ route. On the plus side, much of the track is downhill – steeply downhill. On the minus side, there is a long walk to town once the actual  gorge is finished, and if you don’t make it to Agia Roumeli for the evening ferry, you are stranded!

Don’t get me wrong, I love walking. But, I no longer have the knees or the stamina I once had, and I found myself quite anxious the night before my trip. 

But, I finished. I couldn’t have done it without a walking stick for the steep and rocky downhill sections – of which there are many – and I had to adjust my boots more than once. 

View over Lakkoi Xania, Crete, from a bus window.

Orthodox Church – Lakkoi Xania
I had my nose pressed to the window for most of my bus trips across Crete – each view was more dramatic than the last! (iPhone12pro)

Northern entrance to the Samaria Gorge track, Crete Greece.

Ξυλόσκαλο – Xyloskalo – Wooden Staircase
The northern entrance to the track starts at about 1250m (4100 ft) and drops steeply into the gorge.

Looking down through the Samaria Gorge from the Wooden Staircase, Crete Greece.

Looking through the Samaria Gorge
The gorge cuts through the rugged White Mountains. At 16 km (10 mi), it is the longest in Europe. Stunning views from near the top of the hike make a good excuse to stop for a moment!

Steep stairs into the Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Steep Stairs
The first 6 km (3.8 mi) of the trail zig-zag down a steep cobbled staircase. Good boots are a must!

Yellow fire-fighting equipment, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Fire-Fighting Equipment
This was a year before Greece suffered devastating wildfires; clearly the National Parks are prepared.

Walkers on the track, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

More Down …
The track continues down, but is softer underfoot where generations of trees have dropped their needles.

Mule tied up, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Mule on the Trail
The track can be quite hazardous, and there are mules at the ready in case someone needs rescuing. I didn’t see anyone making use of them: one woman fell and required first aid the day I hiked the path, but I think she managed to walk out herself.

Two kilometre marker, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Two Kilometres (1.24 Miles)
Only two! My walking app says three – and my knees already say five.

Rocky path, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Rocky Walk
Most of the uphill sections ae mercifully short.

Twisting cypress roots around a rock, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Nature’s Sculpture – Twisting Tree Trunk
Samaria cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var. horizontalis) have strong horizontal branches that give the tree a bulky shape. They can live two to three hundred years.

Small cairn on a large boulder, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Rocky Cairn
Humans seem to feel the need to mark their passing: small cairns dot the countryside.

Spring water and round boulders, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Artesian Waters
There are a number of fresh springs along the route – I think this one is the Spring of Riza Sykias.

Agios Nikolaos Church, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Agios Nikolaos Church
This little Greek Orthodox chapel marks the first official rest stop and the end of the steepest sections of track. It wasn’t open, but is was still a lovely spot for a quick break. Nearby, old ruins are believed to be from an ancient shrine to Apollo.

Spring water and rough boulders, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Artesian Pool
All the springs have no swimming signs clearly posted.

Spring water with autumn leaves floating, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Autumn Leaves on the Water
The water is drinkable – and incredibly clear.

Flowering sea squill in bloom, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Flowering Sea Squill – Drimia Maritima

View over scree and pine trees, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

View over the Scree
Clearly, there is still more descending to do! Some say the gorge was created by a small river running between the White Mountains (Lefká Óri) and Mt. Volakias. Others credit the influence of tectonic processes more than two million years ago.

Walled gardens in the village, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Walled Gardens in Samaria
The settlement here was populated until 1962, when the Samaria National Park was formed, and the villagers were moved out.

Bridge to the settlement, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Bridge to the Samaria Settlement
The buildings here remain – but little was open except the toilet blocks. I sat on a garden wall, enjoyed my packed lunch, and retied my boots before setting off again.

Walkers in the valley, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Valley of the Gorge
The valley starts out wide enough, dwarfing the walkers picking their way over the rough rocky ground.

Walkers in the valley, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Walkers in the Canyon
Soon, however, the canyon walls close in.

Wall of the Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Walls of the Gorge
The limestone and dolomite are carved by glacial action and other elements of time.

Walkers in the valley, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Afternoon Sun
Walkers are warned to wear sunscreen and hats: the noon sun is hot on the bare stones.

Light and dark contrasts on the walls of Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Contrasts
The early afternoon sun can no longer reach sections of the narrow canyon floor.

Slabs of rock and fallen scree, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Slabs and Scree
The landscape is rugged and still changing. In the winter months, the hike is closed due to the high risk of flash flooding along the Samaria River. Even in spring and autumn, waters can rise suddenly. In 1993, some walkers were washed out to sea and drowned.

Walkers on a Bridge
As we approach the narrowest sections of the gorge, bridges keep our feet dry …

Small waterfall, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Water in a Weathered Cleft
… and protect the pristine spring waters from pollution.

Small river, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Nature’s Artworks : Water and Rock

Yellow maple leaves and a curving wooden walkway, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Curving Walkway
Autumn maples bend over the track

Path winding through the Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Winding through the Canyon
The narrowest part of the gorge is 11.5 km (7.15 mi) in from the beginning at the north entrance.

In the Gate, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

In the “Gate” or the “Iron Gate”
According to the official sign, the distance between the walls here is as little as three meters (10 ft), and they rise up to 300 meters.

The end of the canyon, Samaria Gorge, Crete Greece.

Light at the end of the Canyon
The canyon walls reduce in height, and the end is in sight.

Walkway to Agia Roumeli, Crete Greece

Walk to Town
There is a shuttle bus to Agia Roumeli, but there was a long queue and I would have had to wait at least a half hour. I must say the walk felt longer than it was!

Text: Happy Walking!I made it into town with time for a meal of stuffed vegetables and a well-earned glass of wine before I had to meet the ferry.

It is a stunningly beautiful area and I’m very glad I walked it.

I’m not entirely sure I would do it again!

Photos: 07September2022

Two women in saris standing in the waves on the Bay of Bengal, Pondicherry India.

Women in the Bay of Bengal
A day at the beach has a whole different meaning in Pondicherry, the French Riviera of the East, in South India.

Puducherry / Pondicherry, in Peninsular India, is known for its colonial charm.

The colonial period there began in 1521 with the Portuguese – the first Europeans to conduct textile trade in the region. The Dutch and the Danes followed in the 17th century, but it was the French who had the most enduring influence after they built a settlement there in 1674. In spite of some back-and-forthing with other European powers, the region remained predominantly in French hands until 1954, when Puducherry and the other territories of French India were completely transferred to the Republic of India.

But the wide boulevards, some of the buildings, and many of the cultural influences, remain. Many roads and districts still have French names. Boutiques and cafés in the flower-lined streets and monuments along the promenade on the waterfront add to the colonial charm. No wonder this famous beach town is called the French Riviera of the East.

The region is also a spiritual haven: the city’s architectural monuments bear testament to the ongoing importance of imported Catholic practices alongside older Hindu and Muslim traditions. One of India’s most important ashrams, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, is tucked into the city streets, and the affiliated experimental township of Auroville (City of Dawn) is located nearby.

I was travelling with a small group across South India. On our first day in the Union Territory of
Puducherry, we drove the short distance to Auroville to spend the morning visiting this fascinating experimental community. Founded in 1968 by the spiritual guru and yoga teacher, Mirra Alfassa, it is dedicated to the vision of Sri Aurobindo (1872 – 1950), Indian philosopher, yogi, maharishi, poet, journalist, and nationalist. It was he who first called Alfassa La Mère’, The Mother; he considered her to be his yogic equal.

In Alfassa’s words: ‘Auroville wants to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities. The purpose of Auroville is to realize human unity.’ The experimental yogic cooperative sits on what was 20 square kilometres of barren wasteland. Today, after the wrangling that ensued following Alfassa’s death in 1973, the management of the community is defined into Indian law under the Auroville Foundation Act.

On our next day, we visited a local wet market (see: Morning in Goubert Market) and the historic Vedapureeswarer Temple and Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (see: Candy Coloured Temples and Churches), before being let loose to our own devices after lunch.

Sun in the branches of an old banyan tree, Auroville, India

The Banyan Tree
Banyan trees are regarded as sacred in India; this one is over 100 years old, and was defined as Auroville’s geographic centre after it was found on an otherwise barren plateau overlooking the Bay of Bengal.

Sculpted gardens, Auroville, India

Round Rocks – Round Tree
The complex was conceived by Mirra Alfassa and designed by French architect, Roger Anger (1923 – 2008).

People seated in front of the Matrimandir, Auroville, India

Taking in the Matrimandir
The spiritual heart of Auroville is the Matrimandir, “a symbol of the Divine’s answer to man’s aspiration for perfection”.

People standing in front of the Matrimandir, Auroville, India

Visitors to the Dome
Visitors come from all over; only those who have sought permission ahead of time are allowed inside the Matrimandir and its immediate surrounds – where silence is maintained.

Purple water lily, Auroville, India

Water Lily – Nymphaeaceae – Wealth
The Mother named 12 qualities and assigned a colour to each. She also assigned a spiritual significance to over 800 flowers.
“True wealth is the wealth that one offers to the Divine.”

Flowers on an orchid tree, Auroville, India

Orchid Tree – Bauhinia purpurea L.
These are the flower of Hong Kong, and always bring to my mind the struggles there. The Mother defined butterfly-tree flowers as symbols of “Stability in the higher vital”.

Two men in in shirts and trousers overlooking Pondicherry Beach, India

Pondicherry Beach
Our accommodation in Pondicherry’s French Quarter was wonderfully located: after lunch, I tumbled out the door and onto the famous beach.

Indian visitors on Promenade Beach, Puducherry, India

Promenade Beach
It is the middle of winter – but we are in the tropics, and average January temperatures range between lows of 22°C (71°F) and highs of 28°C (83°F). Even so, you won’t see nudity or skimpy bathing suits here!

Indian visitors on Promenade Beach, Puducherry, India

Old Port Pier
Locals are proud of their beach, but looking south towards the Old Port Pier, you can take in the litter left behind, and the thinning of the once-broad strip of sand that has suffered ongoing erosion in spite of attempts to save it.

Indian couple sitting on a rock overlooking Pondicherry Beach, India

Couple on the Rocks

Mahatma Gandhi statue and scaffolding, Puducherry, India

Gandhi
On Beach Road, the white granite structure sheltering the bronze statue of independence leader Mahatma Gandhi is partially obscured by nearby scaffolding.

Old Lighthouse, Puducherry, India

Old Lighthouse
A 29 m (95 ft) lighthouse, built in the 1830s, stands watch.

Jawaharlal Nehru Statue, Goubert Avenue, Puducherry, India.

Jawaharlal Nehru Statue
A statue to Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of Independent India stands on a pedestal nearby.

Young men at a water tank in Bharathi Park, Puducherry, India.

The Water Tank
In Bharathi Park, young men gather around the shell-shaped reverse-osmosis water tank.

Signboard in Bharathi Park, Puducherry, India.

‘State Symbols Of Puducherry’
The park is delightful to walk around – and is interspersed with educational signboards.

A buddha outside a building with a painted bodhi tree, Puducherry, India.

Buddha and a Bodhi Tree

Couple on a wooden bench, Pondicherry Beach, India

Couple on a Wooden Bench
Back on the beach, more couples enjoy time on the waterfront.

Scooter in front of old Pondicherry houses, India.

Scooter in the Street
Some of the terraces in the old town look tired and worn, but still elegant.

Shopfront with trinkets Craft Bazaar, Puducherry, India.

Shopping for Trinkets
The area between the park and the beach is a mecca of sand toys, wind chimes, and other trinkets.

Clay wind chimes hanging, Craft Bazaar, Puducherry, India.

Clay Wind Chimes

Outside the Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Pondicherry, India.

Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple
A 34 m (110 ft) tall five-tiered rajagopuram – the ornate monumental entrance gateway tower – leads into a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu.

Inside Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Pondicherry, India.

Inside the Temple
In the style typical of Dravidian temple architecture, the roofs of the shrines inside are colourfully decorated with stories of the Gods.

Mandala patterns on the ceiling, Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Pondicherry, India.

Painted Ceiling
Colourful mandalas adorn the ceilings.

Bell in a painted housing, Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Pondicherry, India.

Bell Tower

Inside Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Pondicherry, India.

Vishnu on a Dome

Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Pondicherry, India.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral
Not far away, I come across the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception. Built in Portuguese-style in 1791 by French Jesuits, it is one of the city’s many different places of worship.

A white bull painted on a building, Pondicherry, India.

Nandi – Shiva’s Devotee
Even away from the temples and churches, much of the art has a religious reference.

A leafy quiet street, Puducherry, India

Rickshaws and Motorcycles

Although I was underwhelmed by the once-famous beach itself – the grey overcast of winter and the ubiquitous litter present everywhere in India probably coloured my view – I thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon walk appreciating the city’s architecture and history.

Puducherry is a delightful city to wander!

Until next time.

Pictures: 21-22January2023

A stone cairn on the Omani Grand Canyon, Jebel Shams

A Cairn on the Canyon
Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’ at Jebel Shams is the second deepest canyon in the world – after the one in Arizona, USA.

I knew virtually nothing about Oman before travelling there – my aim was a long-awaited trip to Egypt (eg: Souvenirs of Egypt) and Jordan (eg: Postcards from Jordan), and I had the chance to tack another stop onto my journey.

Oman has a subtropical dry climate, and is defined as being 82 percent desert; given that it is tucked at the bottom of the Arabian Peninsula, I was expecting – and got – a magical desert sojourn (eg: Life in the Desert). The roads were smooth and straight, making touring easy. Once we were away from the rugged coastline, much of the landscape was rocky and flat, interspersed with date groves and forts. I visited a lot of forts! We had visited one that very morning (see: Jabreen Castle).

The remaining 15 percent of the country is mountainous. The Hajar range – running parallel to the northern coastline of Oman – is home to Jebel Shams (جَبَل شَمْسMountain of Sun), the country’s highest peak (3018 meters, 9902 feet), and the Al Nakhur (Al Nakhr) Canyon

This canyon is also known as Wadi Nakhar, Wadi Ghul, and/or the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Arabia/Oman. It is well named! This gorge, which runs through the valley at the base of Jebel Shams and into the Western Hajar Mountains, is at least 500m (1640 ft) long, and up to 1,000m (3281 ft) deep. The top of Jebel Shams is home to a military installation, and access to that side of the canyon is restricted; the vantage point we drove to was on a high plateau opposite the mountain peak.

You can hike along the bottom of the Wadi Ghul / Wadi Nakhr gulley, or along the top on the 4km (2.5m) out-and-back Jebel Shams Balcony Walk (see: ZigZagonEarth Jebel Shams). Our driver gave us a short briefing and left us to our own devices at the top of the plateau, where I happily wandered taking photos.

Clay brick buildings and a dry mountainside from inside a car, Hajar Mountains Oman

Rocky Hillside from the Car
Because of the brick construction of those buildings, I’m not sure if that is one of the abandoned villages in the area, or if it is still inhabited. This region was once home to dozens of remote mountain settlements, but in the early 2000s the Government of Oman moved most of the inhabitants to less remote locations.

Blue direction sign from inside a car, Hajar Mountains Oman

Roadworks
Most of the roads I traveled on in Oman were smooth bitumen highways. In this region, however, heavy annual rains destroy the road surface, so it is graded, but there is no effort to pave it in between seasons.

Small shrubs and granite boulders, Omani Grand Canyon

Nature’s Still Life Found
Small shrubs cling to the granite boulders at the top of the lookout-plateau.

Parallel striations in the cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

The Canyon
The patterns and striations in the walls of the canyon are mesmerising.

Military installation on Jebel Shams, Omani Grand Canyon

Military Installation
The white domes on the top of Jebel Shams are rather other-worldly.

Cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

Stripes
Those layer of rock speak to the pressures of inconceivable time!

Cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

Overhanging Lookout Ledge
There are no guard rails; …

People on the cliff, Omani Grand Canyon

People on Top
… anyone with severe vertigo might want to re-think their visit.

On the cliff, Omani Grand Canyon

Small Shrubs

Cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

Into Forever
The canyon walls and the blue mountains float off into the distance, …

Rocks and cliffs, Omani Grand Canyon

Patterned Rock
… while the unique patterns on the rocks here on the plateau catch my attention.

Looking down into Wadi Ghul, the Grand Canyon of Oman

Don’t Look Down!
The wadi – a ravine or channel that is dry except in the rainy season – winds through the valley far below.

Slabs of granite, Omani Grand Canyon

Slabs in the Sun

Cairn against blue sky, Omani Grand Canyon

Cairn Against the Sky

Landscape, Omani Grand Canyon

An Otherworldly Landscape
Powerlines run alongside the dirt road: the area is not completely isolated.

Rocks and cliffs, Omani Grand Canyon

Tumbled Blocks

Goats and tourists on the plateau over the Omani Grand Canyon.

On the Track
Goats mingle with the tourists on the rocky paths.

Men in Omani dress on the lookout at the Grand Canyon of Oman

Men on the Lookout
In one of the few fenced areas on the plateau …

Men in Omani dress on the lookout at the Grand Canyon of Oman

Guides Chatting
… local drivers catch up on the news.

A rocky landscape, Hajar Mountains Oman

Rocky Landscape
When my travel companion and I have had our fill of the canyon rim, we drive back west – through more rocky terrain.

Text: Happy RamblingIt is a stark, but beautiful landscape; this imposing gorge is well worth exploring.

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 23October2019

A couple seated on a stone bench, Haridwar Station, India

Late-Morning Light
The platform at the Haridwar Railway Station looks fresh and bright – washed in late morning light and smiling faces – when our train from Delhi rolls in.

One of the tha biggest challenges of travel is getting around once you land where you are going.

I had taken trains in India before, and while each trip resulted in ‘stories to tell’, none was what I would describe as pleasant. But, my photographic group – under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours – was headed to Haridwar and Amritsar and had to get there somehow. So, another train trip was on the agenda.

And, it was a surprisingly orderly, comfortable, and pleasant one!

I say ‘surprisingly’ advisedly. India is known for trains with people piled on, packed in, and hanging off the sides. Even though I had never travelled third-class, I had been squashed into compartments of questionable cleanliness with strangers and their pungent tiffin boxes and oddly-shaped bags. The WC compartments don’t bear remembering.

The last time I took the train from Delhi to Haridwar, it was in an overnight second-class carriage packed with people on the move for the Kumbh Mela celebration. We literally climbed over prone and seated bodies to get to our curtained compartment. One of my companions brought a length of chain so we could lock our bags to the legs of our bunk beds while we attempted to sleep.

The difference this time was palpable: a wallah even came through the carriages with hot tea mid morning! Mind you, we still had to run through the stations at either end to keep the porters and our bags in sight.

The railway stations – and the streets of Haridwar – were still a delightful chaos of activity and colour, but without the throngs of mela pilgrims, it was easy to wander around in comfort. Even the Ganges looked different: there were still plenty of people bathing in the  icy currents rushing down from the source in the Himalaya, but nowhere near the 10 million who were in town last time I visited (see: Some of the 10 Million)!

Going back to these old pictures, I’ve bad to throw a lot away: I don’t know what I was doing! The shutter speeds are far too low and many of the photos are blurry. Still, I’m keeping more than I should because I like the content – if not the quality. 

Railway station packed full of people, Haridwar India

Waiting for the Train
This was Haridwar Railway Station when I visited during the Kumbh Mela in 2010.

Railway station packed full of people, Haridwar India

A Train is Coming
When your train arrived, you needed to be ready!

Young man squatting, New Delhi Railway Station, India

In the Train Station
By contrast, when we arrived at New Delhi Railway Station early one morning in 2013, it was positively quiet!

Indian porter with bags on his head, New Delhi Railway Station, India

Porter
The porters had a clear path – unlike on my previous trip when they had to zig-zag like football players in action.

Train on the move, New Delhi Railway Station, India

Train on the Move
It was still a busy place, though, with trains coming and going every few minutes.

Blurry train on the move, New Delhi Railway Station, India

Almost Abstract : Train Station
I confess: I have no idea how I achieved this, or what I was aiming for, but I like it.

Early sun on an Indian train, New Delhi Railway Station

Sunrise on the Train
When our train pulls out of the station, the early morning sun is rising into New Delhi’s hazy sky. (iPhone5)

Early sun, New Delhi Railway Station, India

Sunrise in the Haze (iPhone5)

Indian porter with bags on his head, Haridwar Railway Station, India

Old Porter
When we arrive in Haridwar, …

Indian porter with bags on his head, Haridwar Railway Station, India

Young Porter
… the porters grab our bags and set off.

Portrait: Indian porter, Haridwar Railway Station, India

Portrait of a Porter

Portrait: Indian woman, Haridwar Railway Station, India

Woman at the Train Station
There are always interesting people around railway stations.

Pony cart, tuk-tuk, bicycle and scooter in a Haridwar street, India

Street Scenes from my Rickshaw
There is a real mix of transportation modes in the streets of Haridwar; I watch it all from the back of my cycle rickshaw as I travel the short distance to my hotel.

Vegetable patties on a large outdoor fryer, Haridwar, India

Street Food
Food everywhere you look! Haridwar is one of the holiest Hindu cities in India, and all the food available in the centre is strictly vegetarian.

Indian man blowing a conch shell in a shop, Haridwar.

Testing a Conch
In Hindu mythology, conch shells are sacred emblems of the God Vishnu. The sound from them is said to be symbolic of the sacred ‘Om’ , and they are are important components in the ritual observances that take place along the Ganges River near here.

Indian man sitting in a vegetable shop, Haridwar.

Vegetable Seller
I love the availability of beautiful, fresh fruit.

Indian man making food in a shop, Haridwar.

More Street Food

Portrait of a police woman, Haridwar India.

Police Woman
I just love people’s willingness to be photographed by me: an outsider and a stranger.

Portrait of laughing woman, Haridwar India.

Laughter
This is what I was talking about above: a photo that is a technical failure, but that I love.

An Indian man sits making chapati on a coal fire, Haridwar.

Making Chapati
In another shop, a man sits making chapati.

Portrait of a smiling man, Haridwar India.

Great Hair
Between chapatis, he has time to smile for my camera.

An Indian man making buns in the street, Haridwar.

Street Food – Baking Buns
All the street vendors have their own little niche.

Portrait of a bun baker, Haridwar India.

Bun Baker

Woman, child, and a scooter in a dark alley, Haridwar India

Scooter in an Alley
Streets go off in all directions.

Shiny corridors in the Hotel Haveli Hari Ganga, Haridwar India

Shiny Corridors 
My accommodation is a wonderful refuge from the bustle of the streets.

Ah India! Always a challenge – always a joy.

I can’t wait to get back!

Until then – 

Om.

Photos: 18November2013