Candy-Coloured Entry Like other Hindu temples built in the Dravidian architectural style typical of Southern India, Vedapureeswarar Temple in Pondicherry is a riot of pastel-coloured Gods and decorations.
India is wildly colourful.
This is true everywhere, but the Dravidian people of South India take it to new whole new levels.
The ethnolinguistic family of people known as the Dravidians are considered native to the Indian subcontinent, although their pre-Neolithic roots are probably in Western Asia, around the Iranian plateau. The language family is at least 4,500 years old – one of the oldest in the world – and split into the variants spoken today across Southern India and Sri Lanka around the 3rd millennium BCE.
The ancient Dravidian religion was animistic and it is believed to have influenced the Hindu scriptures and practices – especially with respect to the concept of divine kingship, the cult of the mother goddess, and the worship of village deities and sacred flora and fauna.
What was most noticeable to me as an outsider, however, was the unique expression of art, architecture, and dance.
In Pondicherry – now more properly known as Puducherry – these rich Dravidian traditions have been influenced by years of colonial rule – first by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the Danes, and more significantly and more recently by the French. This shows up in the architecture of the old city, with French Colonial and Franco-Tamil buildings still standing in White Town, the old French Quarter, and the Tamil Quarter on the other side of the now-empty canal.
But, the influence goes both directions. While the French left behind a strong Catholic minority in Pondicherry and the rest of the south, the construction and decor in the local cathedrals and churches have clearly been influenced by the Dravidian style and colour palate.
I was travelling in Southern India with a small group; we had spent the first part of the morning at Goubert Market before moving on to some of the local architectural treasures: particularly the five-hundred-year-old Vedapureeswarer Temple, rebuilt in 1788 to replace an older one that was destroyed by French troops in 1748. In contrast, the nearby Catholic church, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, is just over 100 years old, having been opened in 1907.
They are equally colourful!
Join us for a tour:
Vedapureeswarar Temple Our group waits in the street outside Vedapureeswarar Temple. The seven-tiered raja gopuram, the gateway tower, rises to a height of 23 meters (75 ft) and is decorated with a pantheon of Gods and topped by seven golden kalasham, which represent the sun meeting the temple.
Gods on the Roof Vedapureeswarar Temple is dedicated to Shiva; he and other Gods are depicted everywhere around the temple, including inside the entry.
Brass Gods While the main temple is open to the public, parts of it are closed off; …
Behind the Gate … small gated alcoves around the outside of the inner courtyard are full of little Gods that have been carefully draped in silks.
Gold Plaques People give generously to their temples; each of these offerings probably represents someone’s hopes and prayers.
Locked Gate
Gods behind the Gate Some of the icons are quite large – and clearly old and precious.
Gods in Yellow
Inside the Temple The second story of the temple is open to the air outside – but it is hot, still, and fairly dark inside.
Shiva as Vedapureeswarar Images of Shiva are everywhere we look.
Candy Colours The details are amazing, and all tell stories that I can’t interpret. The brassy pole to the right of this image is the base of the dhvajastambha, a flagstaff which is a common feature in South Indian Hindu temples. It is one of the items that symbolically protect the temple sanctuary from the impure and undevoted.
Temple Courtyard The whole complex is enclosed by a granite wall.
Flowers for Sale Outside the temple walls, flowers, candles, and other offerings are available for devotees to buy.
Flower Seller Even though I have finished my temple visit, and clearly won’t be buying any offerings, the flower seller happily poses for me and my camera.
Rest Break The city is full of life and colour.
Bicycles Many of the streets – and the objects in them – wear a patina of age.
House Kolam The front steps of houses are decorated every morning with fresh designs made from chalk dust or rice flour. A kolam (கோலம்) is a geometric line drawing in a pattern of straight lines, curves, and loops that is thought to bring prosperity to the home.
South Boulevard Our next stop is a short distance away, where we alight our bus to visit one of Pondicherry’s most famous landmarks.
Jesus Calls
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Built between 1902 and 1908 in neo-Gothic style, the outside of the church is imposing, …
Inside the Basilica … but the inside, with its South Indian colours …
Basilica Dome … and its stained glass story panels is just jaw-dropping.
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus The church was given Basilica status in 2011. At 50 meters (164 feet) long, 48 m wide and 18 m high, it holds 2000 people, and is thought to be the largest in Pondicherry.
Beautiful Wood Our last stop before lunch was in an upmarket shop filled with beautiful crafts and fabrics.
Tumbledown Street Back outside in the pounding sun, the beautiful old buildings of White Town are slowly crumbling into elegant ruins.
I added to my ever-growing collection of elephants and picked up paper maché decorations for my grandchildren.
For as wonderful as it is to learn about new places and cultures, taking a little bit of it home is an even greater pleasure!
Boats in the Harbour The harbour in the little town of Elounda on the picturesque and mountainous northwest side of the Bay of Mirabello in Crete, Greece, is home to colourful fishing boats as well as luxurious tourist craft.
Crete, the southernmost large island of Greece, lives up to its reputation for having a breathtakingly mountainous landscape surrounded by pristine beaches and charming coastal villages.
I booked myself a number of bus tours while I was there, and loved every moment I spent exploring the island.
One of the trips I took was to the ruggedly beautiful and sadly historic rock-island of Spinalonga (see: Colourful Rocks with a Colourful History). After a morning spent walking around the fortress there, we had some time in the delightful villages along the northwestern coast of Mirabello Bay.
Mirabello Bay, or the Gulf of Mirabello/Mirabella, is Greece’s largest bay. On the eastern part of Crete, the waters of the bay lead out into the Sea of Crete on the Mediterranean, which made the region critically important in the earliest days of sail. That is why the outpost at Spinalonga – on that rock in the bay – was originally fortified by the Cretans before the 7th century, and later by the Venetians in the mid-15th century.
At least one of the many beautiful caves around the bay is purported to have been a regular hiding place for the ships belonging to the Ottoman pirates /corsairs, collectively known as ‘Barbarossa’. One or both of these brothers, who were born on the island of Lesbos further north, dominated the trading lines across the Mediterranean for much of the late 16th century.
Today, the bay is home to small fishing fleets and up-market tourist towns. After disembarking our boat from Spinalonga in Plaka, we drove to the town of Kato Elounta (Elouda) for lunch and for some free time exploring. We then drove a short distance south to wander around Agios Nikolaos. This pretty little city is predominantly known as a hub for local tourism: European tourist development in this area took off in the 60’s, after it was used as the location for a number of popular cinematic and television productions.
Come explore!
Pita Gyros This is what ‘fast food’ looks like in Kato Elounda: fresh and tasty meat off the gyros, wrapped in soft pita bread, and complete with crispy chips!
Elounda Beach It might be September, but the weather is still warm and sunny, and the beaches are busy enough.
Elounda Street It’s a typical Mediterranean scene: orange-tree lined streets backing onto olive-treed hills.
Agios Konstantinos Ke Agia Eleni You are never far from an Orthodox Christian church in Greece.
Tiled Dome
Disciples Inside
Lines And Patterns – a Cretan Balcony White-washed buildings help beat the heat; wrought iron balcony rails add elegance.
Bird Statue I thought these were doves or pigeons, but Google Maps lists this piece in Elounda Square only as ‘Bird Statue’. I could find no information on the provenance or the significance.
Nikos Koundouros This statue in Agios Nikolaos was easier to identify: the Greek painter, sculptor, and film director Nikos Koundouros was born here in 1926.
Boats on the Lake The centrepiece of Agios Nikolaos is a small lagoon, Lake Voulismeni, which according to local legends is bottomless and connects underwater with the volcano of Santorini. It is deep (64 m / 210 ft) – but not bottomless.
Cat on the Foreshore The walkway around the lake makes a lovely place to stroll – or nap.
Outside Fisherman’s Crypt The tiered stone walls outside the little church at the southwest corner of the lake make a shady rest spot to take time out …
Musician on the Foreshore … or to play traditional music.
Fisherman’s Church The little church here is dedicated to the safety of the local fishermen.
Door to Fisherman’s Crypt I was lucky to find the doors open; behind the church is a dark, tunneled crypt which has been turned into a makeshift ‘museum’.
Temple Cave on Lake Voulismeni Grated windows are the only source of light inside.
Shrine in the Fisherman’s Cave The cave houses a shrine and some iconography, as well as some dusty fishing relics.
Bridge and Buildings on the Lake Back outside in the afternoon sunshine, my circuit takes me up a steep staircase, which affords wonderful views over the little city.
Buildings on the Lake This is a mecca for summer tourism, and the the buildings surrounding the lake all look quite modern and upmarket.
Boats on the Lake There are plenty of stylish boats on the water and trendy cafés on the foreshore.
Street Corner
Boats on the Harbour Back on the main harbour, many of the boats are serious fishing vessels.
The Abduction of Europa A stone slab at the base of this sculpture reads: “Europe is my name I am the daughter of the Phoenician King Aginoras and mother of King Minos creator of the Minoan civilization”. The statue was designed by Nikos Koundouros – whom we saw in the square earlier – and created by Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriades.
Olive-Oil Maker Our last stop of the day was at the Cretan Olive Oil Farm where we were treated to an explanation of traditional oil production and an extensive tasting experience.
The fresh bread dipped in different mixtures of herb-infused olive oils was very moreish!
And, it’s all a part of a glorious afternoon around Mirabello Bay, East Crete.
Sun Peaks From the flank of Mount Morrisey one has views of the modern chalets on the ski slope across the valley.
There is something charming about a mountain resort village – even in the off season.
Sun Peaks is a popular ski resort in the Monashee Mountains, 410 kilometers (255 miles) east of Vancouver, British Columbia . It boasts the second largest area of skiable terrain in Canada (see: Sun Peaks Resort) and claims to average over 2000 hours of sun a year.
I visited in spring, not winter. And, much of the time I was there, there was little or no sun. But, the air was fresh, the streams were flowing, and the mountain pathways beckoned.
Like many other ski resorts, this area has attempted – with some recent success – to reinvent itself and attract more year-round visitors. Summer bike paths were built in 1999 and an 18-hole golf course was completed in 2005. The village itself has only been incorporated since 2010, but its population more than doubled between the last two censuses, reaching a grand total of 1,404 year-round residents in 2021.
I was making use of some timeshare points, and found myself in a lovely lodge a short walk away from the quaint main street. Because it was spring (not summer), bikes weren’t available, and the chair lifts weren’t running, which limited my activity choices somewhat. But, there were plenty of trails to walk – allowing me to justify some wonderfully decadent meals in the nice selection of local restaurants. The town boasts just enough inviting shops to make wandering enjoyable.
Join me for some not-so-sunny walks.
Sun Peaks Village Summer season was still weeks away, but there were just enough residents and visitors around to keep shops and restaurants open.
New Growth Spring is the time for fresh buds on the willow branches. Patches of snow remain on the ground in the shadows.
Crystal Forest Condominiums Many of the newly-built condominiums and lodges seem to be modelled on European alpine styles (eg: Leysin, Switzerland).
American Robin – Turdus Migratorius I didn’t have much luck with the wildlife; although a mother bear and cubs had recently been spotted, the best I could do was the occasional bird.
View from the Packhorse Climb The clue is in the name! It’s a steep hike up the ski runs on Mount Morrisey.
The Village I hiked up the Packhorse Climb twice – but never made it to the top of Mount Morrisey. I blame jet lag!
Pesto Fusilli in Capones Italian Kitchen I used the walking I did do as an excuse for some wonderful meals …
A 6oz Sirloin in Sun Peaks Lodge … and even treated myself to a steak.
Pita Bread Chicken ‘Burger’ at Bottoms Bar & Grill Mind you, the day I swapped out fries for onion rings I could barely walk home afterwards!
Old Man’s Beard – Usnea The spring sun doesn’t have much reach, and many of the forest paths are dark and mossy, with ferns underfoot and lichen overhead.
Wild Strawberries – Fragaria Vesca I only pulled the car out once all week: that was to drive seven minutes down the road to the Whitecroft Falls Trail Head.
Maple Spinners It is only a short track (1.6 km – 1 mi) running alongside McGillivray Creek, but there was plenty to look at, so I was rather slow.
Dandelions and a Baby Tree Douglas firs regularly live over 500 years – which explains how something this small can grow to 100 metres (330 feet) tall.
Birch Bark
Melissa Blue Butterfly – Plebejus Melissa
Heartleaf Arnica – Arnica Cordifolia These cheerful spring-bloomers were everywhere on the forest trails.
Western Serviceberry – Amelanchier Alnifolia The saskatoon berries were also in bloom on their trees.
McGillivray Creek Finally! The creek I’ve been hearing along the track finally comes into view. The path is soft underfoot.
In the Cedars The branches of the tall western red cedars (thuja plicata) droop gracefully.
Whitecroft Falls The waterfall is small, but very pretty – and the spray splashes high onto the banks …
Bench … soaking the ornate wooden bench overlooking it.
Boulders in the Creek The waters continue their race downstream.
A Rocky Path It always surprises me how different the same path looks when you are retracing it!
Oregon Grape – Mahonia Aquifolium
Nature’s Artworks : Conifer Needles
Back at the Beginning The way back was much quicker, and in no time at all I was back at the trailhead.
It was a lovely little walk – and a fitting end to a week of pleasant hikes in the woods, along creeks, and across ski hills.
I’m hoping to return some time when the summer ski lifts are operating, opening up a whole new batch of trails.
Old Equipment inside Old Walls Two things define the Sultanate of Oman: old forts and dates. I thought this date juice-jar inside the historic Jabreen Castle made a good illustration of this.
If there are two things that define the Sultanate of Oman, it would be old forts, towers, and castles – and date palms.
This relatively small Middle Eastern country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula is home to about 1,000 forts and watchtowers – many of which are open to the public. I didn’t see all of them, but I did visit a few – sometimes more than one a day (eg: Oman’s Fortress Castles)!
Dates are central to the Omani culture and economy. The date palm is the most important agricultural crop in the country, with around eight million trees and 60 different varieties. Historically, in addition to being an important general foodstuff and ritually offered to visitors, they were used to make date syrup, which when boiling, could be poured over would-be attackers.
The historic 17th century Jabreen Castle (حصن جبرين) – also spelled Jibreen or Jabrin – is an example of both ideas. Standing alone in a plain of date palms some distance from the Hajar Mountains, from the outside the palace looks like any of the other blocky Omani fortresses.
Jabreen Castle was built as a palace during a time of peace by a ruler who was passionate about science and art, and includes a madrasa, or school, and a library. But, it is well fortified: with thick defensive walls, soldiers’ quarters, gunnery platforms, and even secret internal hideouts and corridors – which visitors can now explore.
One of the most impressive rooms in the castle is the madbasa – often translated as “date press” – a large, specially constructed space for producing producing date syrup or honey. Bags of dates are piled on an elevated floor in a closed and non-ventilated room with channels grooved into the sloped floor. Gravity squashed the dates and the liquid ran downward to be collected in pots and jars (see: Besides the Obvious: Jabreen Castle). Ingenious!
Come explore:
Power from the Car Oman is considered a high income country, with a relatively modern infrastructure. Unsurprising then, that many of the highways are flanked by power lines.
Jabreen from the Car Jabreen Castle (حصن جبرين) – also spelled Jibreen or Jabrin – stands alone in a wide plain, surrounded by date palms.
Cannons at the Entry It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it is home to some fascinating architecture and history.
Negotiating Entry Our guide and driver Said negotiates our entrance fee.
Castle Plans Inside the outer wall, the plans of the castle illustrate its layout. I’m glad we had a guide: it was hard to tell one corridor from another, and even with audio guides, visitors often end up wandering lost.
Arches In typical Middle Eastern style, …
Corridors … arched doorways lead of in all directions.
Inside Jabreen Although it is built like a fortress, Jabreen is classified as a castle; it was was built in 1670 by Imam Bel’arab bin Sultan Al Yarubi as a palace and a center for knowledge.
Between the Walls Like other Omani bastions, the castle is a balance of solid defences and elegant lines.
Interior Cannons A second set of cannons guard the entrance to the main palace.
Simplicity The rendered walls and rooms …
Old Date Syrup Dispenser … are decorated with historical objects.
Madbasa Dark and airless, a madbasa is a room for extracting date syrup: the liquid once flowed down these old channels to be collected in pots or jars, ready for storage, cooking, or to assist women in labour.
‘Horse Trappings’ One of the more unusual rooms inside the castle would have to be the horse stall, one floor up, where the Imam’s horse was housed.
Interior Courtyard The inner courtyard between the two building blocks is cool and airy – even in the desert heat – with filigreed windows and wooden balconies
Jabreen Rooftop From the lower rooftop, you can get a sense of the construction of the thick walls, …
View from Jabreen Fort … and enjoy views over the surrounding plain.
Flag on the Roof Date palms extend into the distance.
Sparrows Back inside in the cooler dark of the castle, sparrows are making themselves at home.
Carved Beam Many of the ceilings within the castle are intricately carved and vividly painted.
The Whisper Room Nowhere is this better illustrated than in the little room on the upper level where the Imam held his most secret and confidential meetings: the closely packed ceiling beams helped baffle any sound, preventing anyone outside from listening in.
View from the Upper Rooftop From the upper roof, the views over the countryside are even better.
Bahla Fort We had a good view over nearby Bahla Fort and its oasis. Built during the the 13th and 14th century, it is Oman’s largest fort and considered one of the most impressive examples of medieval Islamic architecture. Unesco World Heritage Listed, it was closed when we were in the area.
Looking Out Entering the special staircase to the Imam’s room, I look back out to admire the lines and contrasts.
Domed Corridor This dark space is beautifully decorated in Islamic fashion …
Carved Staircase … with calligraphy and intricate designs.
Beautiful Stairwell The staircase leading to the Imam’s rooms is functional as well as beautiful: a plank on one of the lower steps makes noise when it is stepped on, alerting people to possible intruders.
Jabreen Castle was restored in the 1980s, and the maze of beautifully decorated rooms and passages are well worth exploring.
I’m just glad I had a guide! I had no idea where I was most of the time – just one of the features that helped keep intruders at bay.
Peace reigned here until 1692, when the Imam’s brother and a large army laid siege. The Imam prayed to Allah for death, and is interred inside the castle he built, in a corner that was his favorite place of prayer.
Tangled Trunks I kept imagining Red Riding Hood and the wolves and goblins of old fairy tales as I walked through the cool, mossy, rhododendron forest near Tadapani, Nepal.
I’ve said it before: walking through the rhododendron forests of Nepal is like being in the enchanted world of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale (see: Waterfalls, Mystic Forests, And Clouds). The colours and textures of the trees, the mosses, and even the damp and rocky pathways captured my attention and imagination.
The rain had stopped and the skies were clear. It was late March and the tall and twisted trees were in bloom with Nepal’s national flower, the lali gurans, or red rhododendron. Considered a welcome sign of spring, the 30-odd species of lali gurans that are native to the central and eastern hills of Nepal are a subset of the much larger rhododendron arboreum family. Thriving at altitudes between 2000 m (6500 ft) and 3900 m (1300 ft) in the Himalayas, they are a welcome sight to trekkers.
My husband and I were on Day 5 of a slow circuit trek in the Annapurnas under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa: from Nayapul to Ghorepani/Poon Hill and Ghandruk. Most of our small group were on the slippery side of middle-age, and most of us were carrying heavy camera equipment, so the magnificent mountain and forest views were a welcome excuse to stop, take photos, and admire the scenery!
View from our Terrace I have set my alarm early so that when I exit our Tadapani guesthouse room onto the terrace, I can watch the skies lighten over Fish Tail (Machapuchare).
Sunrise on Annapurna South and Machapuchare What could be better than being treated to this view?
Prayer Flags, Roof Tiles, and Rhododendron Flowers It is now 6:30 on a spring morning. The world behind me seems to drift off into a dream.
“Good Morning, Tadapani!” I pause for a quick selfie before going back in to pack for the day.
Annapurna South Looms Large
“You Are Here” There are regular trekking map boards along these popular routes.
Flowers Overhead We head off, south east into the forest. There are rhododendron flowers in the tall trees overhead, …
Flowers Underfoot … and even more petals on the ground.
Path Winding Through the Trees
Heavy Load We have the luxury of walking these tracks for pleasure; local people use them to meet their daily needs, …
Porters on the Path … or to make a living transporting tourists’ belongings.
Nature’s Still Life : Colour and Texture
Fallen Leaves
Shaggy Bark Everywhere I look, the colours and textures grab me.
Mossy Trunk
More Colour and Texture
Fallen Flower in the Grass
Rocks and Trunks The moss on everything makes the scene magical to me.
Light on the Leaf Spores
More Flowers
Going Down It is always a relief when the path drops down instead of climbing!
Into Bhaisikharka It is even better news when it becomes obvious we have reached a town! Chances are good that we’ll stop for food.
“Welcome to Bhaisikharka!” The other great pleasure of reaching a town is chatting with the locals.
Young Man I’m always impressed by how willing people are to have their picture taken.
It wasn’t yet 11:00 o’clock, but we had been up early – and I am always ready to eat!
But, I knew we’d be on our way again soon to finish our walk for the day (Watch this Space!).
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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For as wonderful as it is to learn about new places and cultures, taking a little bit of it home is an even greater pleasure!
Peace reigned here until 1692, when the Imam’s brother and a large army laid siege. The Imam prayed to Allah for death, and is interred inside the castle he built, in a corner that was his favorite place of prayer..jpg)
