Roosevelt Arch at Yellowstone

Roosevelt Arch
Yellowstone’s North Entrance, backlit by morning sun.

“You will need a bare minimum of three days to see the sights along the Yellowstone road system,” says the Yellowstone Visitors Guide.

They are not exaggerating!

The  Guide goes on to say: “Only 3% of Yellowstone’s visitors ever venture more than 100 yards from the road! Getting out of your car and taking even a short walk will show you what Yellowstone is all about – explore a thermal area, take photographs of the breath-taking scenery, and/or a new wildflower. Everyone should visit Old Faithful, but after watching the geyser, head out to one of the lesser known boardwalks to wait for your favorite geyser to explode.”

Although we had only a short visit, we did, of course, visit Old Faithful, taking the time to walk to the overlook, and to visit other geysers in the area. We also walked around the Artists Paint Pots and Mammoth Hot Springs – and we marvelled at them all. But what amazed me even more, was how varied and beautiful the landscape was, just from the roadways. Even from the comfort of your car, there is so much scenery and wildlife to be seen.

Each day, we entered the park from the north, coming through the Roosevelt Arch before winding our way slowly to the day’s destination – taking in the sights along the way.

Golden Gate
The first road was built through the Golden Gate (so called because of the yellow hue of the rocks in the area) in 1884-85. The current road is still windy, but much safer.

Fly fisherman in waders on a small lake surrounded by golden grass and backed by a conifer forest and mountains.

Fisherman
The colours are subtle on the Central Plateau, as a fly fisherman waits for a bite.

Scruffy looking bison sits in a salt patch, surrounded by grass.

Our First Bison
He’s rather scruffy looking, but he was our first bison sighting.

A man, a girl and a boy all walk away from a large bison, checking their cameras.

“Chimping”
A family checks their bison pictures as they walk away from him.

Landscape View: Firehole River

Firehole River

Scenic view: white waters rushing, Firehole River.

White Waters, Firehole River.

Osprey against a coniferous forest.

Osprey, Firehole River Road.

View: fallen logs in rushing water, Firehole River.

Log Jam, Firehole River.

Yellow daisy-like wildflowers in front of rushing water, Firehole River, Yellowstone.

Yellow Wildflowers, Firehole River.

White water rushing over a boulder: Firehole River.

Rushing Water, Firehole River.

American bison sitting down among Lodgepole Pine, Yellowstone NP.

American Bison in the Woods

Prairie

Bison dotted over the grasslands of Hayden Valley.

Six-point Elk/Wapiti buck sittin in long grass.

A Wapiti Buck watches us.

Six-point elk grazing, Yellowstone National Park.

Large Wapiti (Cervus canadensis) grazing in rich grasslands.

 

American Bison Crossing a Roadway. Yellowstone NP.

Bison on the Move

Through a car windscreen: a car on a road in Yellowstone National Park in evening light.

On the Road ~ Evening Light.

Ancient petrified redwood tree behind an iron fence, Lost Lake trailhead, Yellowstone.

Ancient (45-50 million years old) petrified redwood tree, Lost Lake trailhead.

Scenic view: Yellowstone

Canyon Walls and Yellowstone River, Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon.

A group of people walking up on the wall of Yellowstone

Walking the Canyon

Osprey against the walls of Yellowstone

Osprey in the updrafts of the Grand Canyon.

Landscape view: rock pinnacles at the top of the Tower Falls.

Rock pinnacles at the top of the waterfall give Tower Falls its name.

American Bison in the grass; misty hills in the background.

Bison Group

Large bison crossing the road, Yellowstone National Park.

Give Way ~ Large Male Crossing!

Yellow Butterflies in While Daisies

Delicate creatures: Butterflies, Sulphur Caldron

Scenic view: steaming pits of the Sulphur Caldron, Yellowstone National Park.

 Sulphur Caldron 

Landscape: White ground with a steaming mud pot, Sulphur Caldron.

Mud Pots and Spindly Trees
The area around Sulphur Caldron has very little ground water.

Black Bear in yellow marshy grasslands, Yellowstone.

We watched from the safety of the road as a Black Bear sauntered across the grasslands …

Black Bear walking into a lake, Yellowstone National Park.

… and without pausing to check his reflection, went straight across a small lake.

Highway 20 exiting Yellowstone National Park, heading east.

Exiting East
Too soon we had to leave the park, driving east through the Shoshone National Forest towards Cody.

Text: Happy RamblingYellowstone’s landscape changes with every bend in the road. Of course, it changes with every season, as well. The guidebook is right: three days is barely enough! A friend of mine makes a point of trying to visit the park every year, and I can understand the appeal; as we drove out, we were already plotting a way to come back one day.

Till then ~ Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 13-14August2012

  • Signe Westerberg - January 18, 2013 - 1:47 am

    fantastic, started reading this yesterday and had lots of trouble with the links… great read and amazing shots…just lovely tksReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 18, 2013 - 8:52 pm

      Sorry you had trouble with the links, Signe. I just tested them and they seem ok. Always glad to have you along!ReplyCancel

Stone mountain hut against a blue sky, fronted by Silver Snow Daisy, Seaman

Seaman’s Hut
A mountain hut built in memory of W. Laurie Seaman and Evan Hayes, who died in a blizzard in 1928.
Summit Walk, Etheridge Range, 30 December 2012.

There can be no better place to recharge one’s batteries and to make plans for the future, than the mountains.

Of course, it is fair to say that Australian mountains are more like hills by world standards, with Mt Kosciuskzo, the highest, standing at only 2,228 meters. Even so, whenever I’m in the Snowy Mountains I revel in the crisp, clean ‘mountain’ air, and feel like the world is full of possibilities.

Silver Snow Daisy (Celmisia asteliifolia) on an alpine slope. Mt Hotham, Vic

Silver Snow Daisy
Celmisia asteliifolia on the summer slopes of Mt Hotham, 14 December 2012 (iPhone S4).

Grasses in a mountain wetland: mountains in the background.

Wetlands
Boggy ground and mountain views along Rennix Walk, 11 November 2012.

Landscape: Grasses in the foreground, against patchy snow on Mount Townsend, Australia

Mount Townsend
Grass and snow patches viewed from the Summit Walk, 10 November 2012.

In the past few months, we’ve crossed through the high country passes a few times, and stayed near Kosciuszko National Park several more. Each time, the clean air and open skies have caused me to stop – to revel in those timeless moments when everything shimmers and feels endless.

Our most recent trip into Australia’s alpine regions was almost symbolic: as we approached Jindabyne, gateway to Kosciuszko, the summer sun started setting, casting a red and orange light over the land. At the same time, as if to signal the end of a hectic year, the full moon rose over the foothills.

Full moon rising through an orange sky over fields and low mountains. Jindabyne, NSW

Sunset ~ Moonrise
Full moon rising: The Snowy River Way, 28 December 2012 (iPhone S4).

Full moon through silhouetted gum trees, against dark blue sky. Jindabyne, NSW.

Full-Moon Magic
The last full moon of the year through the gum trees, Jindabyne, 28 December 2012.

After arriving at our destination, we sat outside. Everything was quiet as we watched the last full moon of the year rise through the gum trees opposite our patio. What a perfect way to wind down after a busy festive season with family!

Of course, I don’t sit still for very long; in a few days we were out cycling and walking across some of Kosciuszko National Park’s vast and varied alpine landscape.

View of alpine plants, including mountain celery, across the Main Range, Kosciuszko, Australia

The Main Range
Patches of Mountain Celery are scattered across the Main Range, Kosciuszko National Park.

Mountain Celery in bloom, mountains and blue sky.

Mountain Celery
Aciphylla glacialis against the open sky, 30 December 2012 (iPhone S4).

Close-up: Purple eyebright among mountain grasses.

Eyebright
Clumps of euphrasia collina dot the hillside beside the Summit Walk, 30 December 2012.

An Australian Raven profiled on a granite rock against a blue sky; displaying an open beak and the distinctive hackles.

Australian Raven
The distinctive long throat feathers (hackles) accompany the raucous cries of one of the many corvus coronoides along our track, 30 December 2012.

A patch of silver snow daisies against scattered granite rocks. Kosciuszko NP, AU

It’s a wild and rugged landscape.

Patch of Silver Snow Daisy against alpine grass.

Silver Snow Daisies don’t bloom long, but are my favourite.

Silver Snow Daisies across the Main Range, Kosciuszko.

Their beautiful silver-blue foliage colours the alpine hollows.

Long mountain grasses, gumtrees behind.

Grasslands
It’s a nice, easy walk from Thredbo Diggings campsite to Bullock’s Hut, 01 January 2013.

A bleached log surrounded by golden headed grass.

Fallen log along Bullock’s Track.

Golden headed grasses in sunlight.

Sun bounces off the grasses.

Rough grasses and small purple wildflowers.

Purple Wildflowers
The wild and delicate forest floor, 01 January 2013.

Grassy walking track, littered with fallen logs. Bullock’s Track, Kosciuszko NP.

Gum Forest
Gum trees – fallen and standing – line Bullock’s Track.

Mountain river flanked by grass and gum trees. Bullock

Confluence
The meeting point of Thredbo River and Little Thredbo River at Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.

Clear waters rippling over the smooth rocks of a river bed. Bullock

Clear Waters
The Thredbo River runs cold and clear, Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.

Close-up: march fly on a hiking pant leg.

Company
March flies can be an ever-present pest during the summer months. Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.

Delicate yellow pea flowers in rich green grass.

A Riot of Colour
Delicate yellow pea flowers in rich green grass, Bullock’s Flat, 01 January 2013.

Standing tump of burned tree in a gum forest.

Memorial to fires past.

Dirt walking track through gum forest.

Bullock’s Track.

Tufts of grass growing from a crack in a granite rock.

Grasses in the Wind
Life is tough in the Snowy Mountains: tufts of grass get a hold on granite rock.

White wildflowers on green shrubbery.

White Flowers
With every step, the textures, colours and scents of the forest change.

Family group on the Thredbo River on a sunny day.

Family Day Out
Families spend their New Year’s day cooling off in the Thredbo River, 01 January 2013.

To the Future (text)

It is always delightful exploring Kosciuszko National Park’s tracks and trails, and it was a great place to welcome the New Year, with all it’s fresh potential.

Wishing you all the best of the New Year ~ where ever you are and whatever your plans.

Pictures:  10 and 11 November 2012; 14 and 30 December 2012; 1 January 2013.

  • Signe Westerberg - January 10, 2013 - 10:16 pm

    I really don’t get up to the mountains often enough. What a lovely virtual visit to this amazing place, thanks for the share 🙂ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 10, 2013 - 11:33 pm

      Thanks for coming along for the virtual tour, Signe; you are welcome on the real one any time! 🙂ReplyCancel

  • […] I, personally, have been incredibly lucky this past year – with new babies and new adventures – but the events of the world around me have had an impact. I often feel weighted down by the disasters and acts of insanity that I see in the nightly news and feel the need to withdraw: to wrap myself in healing nature and refresh my spirit. There can be no better place to recharge one’s batteries and to make plans for the future, than t… […]ReplyCancel

  • […] Rennix Walk; Kosciuszko Lookout; Porcupine Rocks; Mount Kosciuszko Summit; Mount Stillwell; Seaman’s Hut; Waterfall Track; Rainbow Lake; Illawong Lodge; The Old Geehi Huts; etc.), but […]ReplyCancel

Head shot of a red clay temple-door guardian, Yaak or Dvarapala Yaksha.

The giant warrior (Dvarapala Yaksha) guards the doors to Wat Ratchathammaram’s unfinished temple.

Enlightenment doesn’t happen overnight.

Neither, apparently, does building a temple.

I don’t know how long they have been working on the new wihan (พระวิหาร), or shrine hall, at Wat Ratchathammaram (วัดราชธรรมาราม) in Maret on the southeast side of Koh Samui, but we’ve been driving past on the way to or from somewhere for several of our visits to the island over recent years – the sight each time causing me to remark on the beautiful red colour of the cement or clay in the building’s structure.

On our last two visits: mid-2011 and early 2012, we actually stopped. Comparing the two sets of photos that I took, I can see little change in the building or the surrounding grounds across the intervening time.

Terracotta coloured thai temple building. วัดราชธรรมาราม  Wat Ratchathammaram

Although the shrine hall structure is up, and some of the paving is down, Wat Ratchathammaram’s wihan still has an “unfinished” look.

Thai giant guardian in red clay at a temple front; Bay of Thailand in the background.

The giant warriors have been standing guard at the temple doorway for some time…

Thai dragoon head in red clay or cement, Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui

…but the dragons at the steps are still supported by scaffolding.

Long view of a Thai temple hall build from red cement; a golden buddha at the end.

The wihan houses the temple’s Buddha image.

Thai temples are often decorated with murals depicting stories from religious and everyday life.  Theravada Buddhist scriptures are written in Pali, an Indian language not generally understood by Thais outside the monkhood, and temple art provides a means of passing on historical, moral, and religious lessons.

At Wat Ratchathammaram, the murals are in elaborate bas-relief, instead of the more common stylised and richly-coloured wall paintings.

Temple mural in red clay: Hanuman the monkey in a scene from the Ramakian.

This panel depicts Hanuman, the magical white monkey warrior, in an episode from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana, the 2000 year old Hindu epic.

Red clay bas-relief: Scenes of battle from the Ramakien.

Scenes of battle from the Ramakien.

Red bas-relief: Ganesh. Wat Ratchathammaram

Ganesh, the Remover of Obstacles, in a back corner.

Three Thai devi in red bas-relief clay. Wat Ratchathammaram

Devas, benevolent supernatural beings, say prayers.

Back of the red cement wihan at Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui.

More deities feature on the exterior of the back wall.

Ornate Thai temple roof in carved red cement. Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui

The intricately decorated roof bargeboard or lamyong includes elements of the feathered garuda and the serpentine nāga.

Karma, from the Sanskrit karman, or ‘action, effect, fate’, comes from one’s actions and intentions. Therefore, making merit (puñña), or doing good mindfully, contributes to good karma in the Thai world-view. Honouring others (especially the Buddha) and offering service (especially to the temple) are a great way to make merit.

Young Thai man in a head-scarf laying pavers. Wat Ratchathammaram

A young man meticulously fills the gaps between the paving tiles.

Thai male in a blue polo shirt cementing paving tiles. Wat Ratchathammaram

Careful work on the new paving tiles.

Paving trowel on a pile of re clay pavers.

Paving tools.

Red pavers and building site rubble around Wat Ratchathammaram

As is the case on any building site, rubble collects on the ground.

Red clay mouldings stacked, waiting to be incorporated in the new building. Wat Ratchathammaram

New mouldings are stacked and waiting.

Meanwhile, around the rest of the temple grounds, life continues.

A white and black cat on a table, with a hot-pot and tea-making supplies.

A cat sits on the tea-making table outside the abbot’s rooms.

Red-roofed kuti (monk

Little kuti (monks’ houses) drop down the hill…

View of white sand beach and greenery from Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui.

… with a pleasing view over the Bay of Thailand.

View down over private memorial stupas. Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui.

Beneath the temple, down towards the beach, a number of memorial stupas are located.

Close-up: private stupa with blue and white mosaic patterns.Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui

Decorated in rich colours and designs…

Nameplate - in Thai script - on a private stupa in a temple graveyard. Wat Ratchathammaram

… they contain the ashes of loved ones.

Ceramic vases at the base of a private stupa. Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui

Vases for flower offerings and incense sit at the base of many of the stupas –

Small golden Buddha in the alcove of a golden stupa. Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui

– and a Buddha image is never far away.

Wildly coloured temple bell, Wat Ratchathammaram, Koh Samui.

The wildly coloured temple bell is a surprise, given the monochrome tones of the wihan.

It is a lovely, quiet spot, and I look forward to seeing what changes – if any – have been effected by our next visit.

Pictures: 22August2011 and 29April2012

  • Gabe - January 3, 2013 - 8:30 pm

    Probably still unfinished, but peaceful just the sameReplyCancel

  • Signe Westerberg - January 3, 2013 - 11:05 pm

    Such vibrant colours and an idealic location to contemplate, just looking at the water would be so relaxing. Gorgeous as always.ReplyCancel

  • Dietmut - January 7, 2013 - 5:22 pm

    ik heb je bericht weer met veel interesse gelezen Ursula. Ook je geplaatste fotos waren weer super. Groetjes DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 8, 2013 - 3:01 am

      Greetings to you, too, Dietmut! Glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Michael - January 14, 2014 - 8:10 pm

    Liked your post and your pics are so much better than the ones I took!!!!!!!!, having read your article I can confirm that it is much the same as when you were last there, my pics from 24th Mar 2013 still show dragons supported by scaffolding and building rubble scattered around, all the same I liked it and will revisit in April 2014.

    MickReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 15, 2014 - 12:37 am

      Thanks for the visit, Michael. I am not surprised to hear there has been little change at the temple – but isn’t it a peaceful spot?
      😀ReplyCancel

Text: Peace, Love and Light Picture: Young Burmese monk with a candle

Peace, Light and Hope

The end of another year is fast approaching.

In preparation, I’m packing a bag for my escape to Australia’s Snowy Mountains. For while many regard New Year’s Eve as a time for noise-makers, fireworks, and drunken revelry, I prefer to use the time to take stock of the year past and to sketch out tentative plans for the year coming.

This time last year we were barely into our current home, surrounded by boxes and chaos. In the intervening twelve months, we’ve managed to carve out some order and to adjust to a different kind of lifestyle in a vastly different environment. But we have also been “on the road” and away from our house for at least half that time.

One of the things that becomes more noticeable when you travel is how very different people’s live are. Not just the obvious: food and housing and clothing; but the deeper fundamentals. Values and beliefs: what it means to be a “good” person; people’s hopes and dreams for themselves, and more importantly, for their children.

I was reminded of these differences everywhere we went this past year: England, Ireland, and Wales; Western Canada and across the US; country and coastal Australia; and most obviously, Thailand and Myanmar. As the Thais say, people everywhere are: “same, same… but different!”

Young burmese monk surrounded by candle-lit alcoves with Buddhas in them, Shweyanpyay Monastery, Naung Shwae, Myanmar

Novice in an Alcove

The young burmese novice in this series of photos is a perfect example. He lives, studies, works, and sleeps in Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery in Myanmar’s Shan State, where his life is well-ordered but rather austere. Entering the monastery is likely to have been his family’s decision, rather than his own, and the decision was probably based on pragmatic as well as spiritual considerations: this is a poor area, and boys in monasteries such as this get their food, clothing, and education provided. I don’t know what his personal hopes and dreams are, but he won’t have been expecting a lot of fancy gifts from Santa this past week.

In one of the outer pagodas, filled with individual Buddhas in niches – all bearing the names of their benefactors – the young novice sat in absolute stillness for half an hour, surrounded by candles in the tropical heat, while ten travellers with assorted cameras snapped pictures of him from all angles. Outwardly, he did not question this odd request from the foreign visitors. His Abbot had told him to go sit – so he sat.

Burmese Novice monk holding a candle in prayer, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice Monk in Prayer

Clearly, these are not “found” images; the scene was set by our photographic-tour leader, Karl Grobl and our local guide MM while we were visiting Myanmar last September.

Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery in Nyaung Shwae is housed in a beautiful 150-year-old teak building, which I will return to in some future “Wanders” PhotoBlog post. We visited the monastery twice: once in the mid-morning for lunch, and on this evening occasion to photograph the young novice in the small window of opportunity between the fall of darkness and evening prayers.

Novice Burmese Monk in Candlelight, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nuang Shwe, Myanmar

Novice in Candlelight

Text: Happy New YearWhile these images may not tell us much about this young novice’s actual life, to me they convey the kind of quiet, meditative contemplation that I associate with the New Year period.

So, I wish you and yours a happy and peaceful new year, and the quiet time to reflect on what is important.

Pictures: 23September2012

  • Gabe - December 27, 2012 - 6:39 am

    I love the images. Another year of very good weekly wanders completed.
    Always thought provoking.ReplyCancel

  • Karl Grobl - December 27, 2012 - 6:46 am

    Ursula, what a wonderful post for the approaching new year. You’ve given us amazing images and an important message to ponder. Thanks for sharing, and I wish you the best in the coming year. Cheers, KarlReplyCancel

    • Ursula - December 27, 2012 - 9:25 am

      Glad you liked it, Gabe.
      So pleased you stopped in, Karl. Thanks for creating such great opportunities. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Michael LaPalme - December 28, 2012 - 12:40 am

    What a beautiful collection of images Ursula… 🙂 What a stunning scene!ReplyCancel

  • Michael carter - December 28, 2012 - 1:19 am

    Hi Ursula,
    beautiful images. thanks to the abott for sending the novice there to sit 😉
    it’s serene.

    happy 2013 Ursula 😉

    MichaelReplyCancel

    • Ursula - December 28, 2012 - 1:37 am

      Thanks, Michael x 2. Happy New Year’s to you both.ReplyCancel

  • Lisa - December 28, 2012 - 3:27 am

    Lovely images and beautifully said Ursula!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - December 28, 2012 - 4:38 am

      Thanks so much, Lisa. One day you and I have to talk about processing: your colours from the same location are SO different!!
      Have a great 2013. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Dietmut - December 28, 2012 - 4:06 pm

    Ursula, all of these photos are wonderful and thank you for your report. Warm greetings and a lovely turn over, DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - December 29, 2012 - 12:37 am

      Thanks, Dietmut. Happy New Year to you too.ReplyCancel

  • Kevin Dowie - December 29, 2012 - 2:16 am

    Great images Ursula,
    I particularly like the “Novice in an alcove” (as captioned) shot. I know some people love “inspirational” messages/text added to such images, but to me they work best without. Just a personal preference! 🙂
    Best wishes for the New Year.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 1, 2013 - 12:21 am

      Kevin, your input is always appreciated. Happy New Year!
      Dietmut, thank you for your good wishes. Best wishes for a wonderful new year!ReplyCancel

  • Dietmut - December 31, 2012 - 3:50 pm
  • Signe Westerberg - January 2, 2013 - 6:01 am

    lovely as always and may your 2013 be everything you both hope for. Thanks for the travels this year…looking forward to what 2013 holds in store.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 2, 2013 - 9:34 am

      Happy New Year, Signe. Hope to catch you face-to-face one of these days!ReplyCancel

  • PATRICIA - January 4, 2013 - 8:53 pm

    Happy New Year, All. May the rest of your days be better days.ReplyCancel

  • Patrick Gallagher - January 5, 2013 - 8:41 am

    Nice job, Ursula, with some stunning photos. I hope you have a very good new year.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - January 7, 2013 - 11:58 am

      Thanks, Patrick. HNY to you too. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • philip coggan - July 19, 2013 - 2:05 am

    I wouldn’t feel too guilty abt getting the little boy to sit still for an hour for your photos – every day we ask children to sit still for hours on end in the name of teaching them spelling and arithmetic 🙂ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 19, 2013 - 4:54 am

      Very true, Philip! But I know MY children wouldn’t have sat so still. Thanks for your visit! 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Denise Johnson - April 13, 2014 - 1:39 am

    Thanks for sharing these images. Seven years ago I had a death experience that looked so much like this photo. Seeing it almost made me faint. I am inspired to visit this monastery before I die, now. Please kindly send the boy a percentage of the sales of the cards. The monastery as well as his family could use the support and his practice is now making you money. I wouldn’t want you to receive negative karmic ramifications. Thank you.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 13, 2014 - 5:02 am

      Thanks for your visit and comments, Denise. Rest assured, we always put funds and support into the monasteries and temples we visit.ReplyCancel

  • […] Candles in the Alcove Once the novices have eaten, we are able to persuade one to pose for us in the alcove. (I posted a selection of these photos as “Light the Way” some time ago.) […]ReplyCancel

Detail of child

“Suffer the Children”
Detail from one of the magnificent Harry Clarke stained glass windows, DIseart, DIngle, Ireland

It’s a funny day today: the blustery winds keep changing directions as I watch the swans and pelicans on the estuary across the road from where I live.

I guess the unsettled weather is fitting for this, the last day of the cycle in the ancient Mayan calendar. For a price, you can escape or celebrate the end in a Russian bunker, while doomsday preppers in the US have their bunkers ready; just as well, really, as French authorities are banning access to Bugarach, the magic mountain and safe haven in the Pyrenees. I’ll spend the evening sitting on my balcony, come what may.

I had a fleeting moment, at some point during this year, of thinking that I might be blogging or posting a status update as the world was ending: a bizarre conceit, really – after all, if everything stops, I’m sure the electricity and internet will be the first to go! And, who would possibly be reading? But, it is perhaps symptomatic of this “connected” world we are now in, that this silly thought even crossed my mind.

As I write this, the press is still full of reaction to the recent horror-killing in the USA, half a world away: that of 20+ children and 6 adults at a Connecticut school. A tragic occurrence by any standards. But, we live in a world where, on average, 19000 children under five die every day: from disease, war, and insufficient nutrition. Those headlines are less dramatic.

Six months ago, I was in the western-most reaches of Ireland, where the rocks and the ruins seem well removed from the woes of the 21st century. Truly, as my husband and I walked around the flank of Mount Eagle, with nothing standing between us and North America except the wild Atlantic Ocean, I felt as if we were in another world.

But this rugged landscape is steeped in its own tragic history of oppression and starvation, and located in a country currently struggling through crippling unemployment.

Day 6:  Dingle to Dunquin

The trail from Dingle takes you further westwards through the village of Ventry and onto the golden sandy beach of Ventry Harbour. A country lane leads you on to the medieval roads of Slea Head. This area is dotted with a multitude of Clochans or more commonly known as beehive huts which date back to the Mesolithic Period of around 6000 BC. 
As your trail bends north around Slea Head you will also have some stunning views back over the great Blasket Island and your final view of Dingle Bay.

Distance: 20 km/12.5 miles    Ascent: 310 m/930 ft



Before leaving Dingle, we stopped in at Dingle’s well advertised “Hidden Treasure”: the Díseart Institute of Irish Spirituality and Culture: a former convent, housing an information centre and some absolutely fabulous religious art.

Details of a Last Supper fresco: Jesus has the Bread of Life in his hand. The Díseart, Dingle Co.Kerry

“The Last Supper”
Detail from the Fresco painted by American mural artist Eleanor Yates. The Apostles are all modelled on local men, and all the items and foodstuffs on the table are from local crafts and produce. You can see Dingle Bay through the “windows”.

Mural depicting Nano Nagle in Paris. Diseart, Dingle, Co.Kerry

Honora “Nano” Nagle (1718-1784)
Another room houses a mural depicting Nano Nagle in Paris, before her decision to live her life by Christ’s example. Later, back in Ireland, she founded the Presentation Sisters and, in spite of the risks, established several schools for the poor.

Harry Clarke stained glass Window

Created in 1922, the richly detailed Harry Clarke windows depict six scenes from the life of Christ.

The Harry Clarke stained glass windows are just beautiful, but there came a point at which we had to brave the rains and start walking the 20 kilometres between us and our next lodgings.

Colourful row houses on a wet street: Dingle, Ireland

Leaving Dingle – down a wet road and into the mists…

Yellow flowers on Wild Honeysuckle (Woodbine: Lonicera periclymenum) against green hills.

Beautifully fragrant wild honeysuckle (Woodbine: Lonicera periclymenum) lines the roadways we followed. I was told these plants epitomise the Irish: flexible, resilient, and deceptively strong.

Ivy on the Fence Posts

“Turn left at the fence.”
Ivy grows on wooden fence rails, next to galvanised gate posts.

Wet green path with fuchsia hedges either side.

Once off the roads, we are surrounded by honeysuckle, blackberry and fuchsia. Although not native to Ireland, fuchsia were planted as hedges by farmers and are now ubiquitous all over the southwest.

Wet fuchsia flowers.

The fuchsia are much happier about the rain than we are.

White-flowering green plant growing on a sandy beach; Ventry Beach

White-flowers on a wet and windy Ventry Beach.

Sandy inlets and grasses on Ventry Beach

Following our guide notes, we walked the three kilometres along Ventry Beach…

Creek flowing through sand and grass, into Ventry Harbour.

… crossing streams along the way.

Clumps of grass growing in sand: Ventry Beach

Clumps of grass growing in sand: Ventry Beach.

White house nestles in very green hills. Dingle Peninsula, Co.Kerry Ireland

A modern house sits among the stone cottages and ruins.

Donkey and white pony grazing on green grass; thatched cottages behind.

Like a scene from another time: The hill is dotted with thatched stone cottages, stone and wooden fences, and beasts of burden.

Rugged Irish West Coast shrouded in fog, Slea Head, Dingle Peninsula

Looking back towards Ventry and Dingle, we can see where we have walked.

Close-up: rough stone wall overlooking the Atlantic. Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

We follow the old stone walls…

 Stone walls in green grass against a wet colourless sky. Dingle Peninsula, Ireland.

… up the hill.

Shorn Sheep on a wet, green rocky hillside. Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

We are watched by sheep…

Small waterfall flanked by green ferns. Dingle Peninsula, Ireland.

… as we cross waterfalls.

Landscape: Stone remains of monk

Eventually, we spot our first clochans, or “Beehive Cells”, built by early Christian monks between 700 and 800 AD. The Blasket Islands are visible on the horizon.

Stone foundations of monk

These huts, like the early monasteries of Ireland, were occupied into the 12th Century. During this period, the Celtic Church was not under the direct rule of Rome, and so kept many of the early Pre-Christian influences.

Purple foxgloves and green ferns, DIngle Peninsula, Ireland.

Wet to the knees, we work our way through foxgloves and ferns.

Beehive Cells, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

The Beehive Cells are everywhere.

Landscape: Black cliffs and green grass over sandy beach and waves. Dingle Peninsula, Ireland.

Under Brehon Laws in the 19th century, family plots were divided among the sons, until the farms became too small to be useful.

Landscape: stone walls and stone cottages, Dunquin, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

Stone walls still divide the countryside as we descend to the road and round the hill towards Dunquin.

Wild Daisies at a roadside, Dunquin, Ireland

The skies darken further. Daisies flank one side of the road ~

Rugged Irish west coast landscape, Dunquin

~ and the other side drops off steeply into the ocean.

Harry Clarke stained glass of May Joseph and Jesus.

Harry Clarke stained glass.

In spite of the recent hardships and poignant memories of famine, exodus, and “the Troubles”, there is a faith and resilience in Ireland that keeps the smiles, the hospitality, and the music flowing.

Christmas is just around the corner, so it is fitting to return to Harry Clarke’s windows.

Perhaps, if the world continues tomorrow, as most of us believe it will, we can fulfil the Mayan prophesy by making the world a different and better place – especially for the children.

Text: May the Spirit of the Season be with You.

 

 

Photos: 23June2012