I read a travel article some years ago, defending taking the “more travelled” road occasionally. I quite agree: as much as I like to get off the beaten track and away from “tourist spots”, there is something to be said for seeing iconic places for oneself.
Old Faithful Geyser and Old Faithful Visiter Education Center from Observation Point.
So it was with Old Faithful, Yellowstone National Park’s best known geyser. The postcards and travel shows might do it better, but there is nothing quite like being part of the crowd, sitting or standing under a relentless Wyoming sun, waiting for the trusty geyser to erupt.
Old Faithful was named by members of an early exploratory team, the Washburn Expedition of 1870, for its consistency. Today, the park rangers calculate and post the expected time of the next eruption, plus or minus 10 minutes, so visitors know when to gather around the viewing platforms.
The limestone-encrusted grassy mound that is at the centre of the wooden seats and boardwalk isn’t very impressive…
… as people from all over the world and all over the country jockey for a vantage point.
Boiling water and steam spew into the air.
Intervals between eruptions vary from 50-127 minutes, and eruptions last from one and a half to five minutes. The performance started with what looked like smoke signals, as puffs of steam rose into the air. Then the boiling water followed before it all went quiet again.
“Is that it?” asked a little boy in the crowd.
I confess, I felt a little let-down myself. But that wasn’t it; there was more.
Eruptions average 30-55 meters; this one was pretty high.
Yellowstone National Park is home to the world’s largest concentration of hydrothermal activity: geysers, hot springs, mud pots, fumaroles (steam vents), and travertine terraces – and it was thanks to Old Faithful and these other features that the land was protected in the first place, as we learned from one of the park rangers.
Ranger Darlene, in her uniform modelled on the earliest “rangers”: the US Cavalry, entertains young and old with her telling of Yellowstone Park history.
Ranger Darlene had her audience transfixed as she related the story of the park’s early history, complete with wildlife poaching and the almost-complete-demise of the buffalo. Although over two million acres was set aside as the world’s first National Park on March 1, 1872, the idea of preserving the wildlife that lived in the area came much later.
The Upper Geyser Basin, which includes Old Faithful, has four other geysers as well as examples of hot springs, mudpots and steam vents. Just a short climb to Observation Point and a walk around Geyser Hill gave us easy access to many of these. We couldn’t believe the beauty and variety of natural forms and colours.
A male mule deer, hiding in the woods as we walk up to Observation Point.
A young couple watches the geyser activity from Observation Point.
Castle Geyser through the steam and sulphur haze, from Observation Point.
Solitary Geyser was small but predictable: every four or five minutes it would burble up.
The mineral deposites and heat-loving algae and bacteria around Solitary Geyser make beautiful patterns.
Sulphur and steam rises, yet plants grow around the edges of the Solitary Geyser pond.
Sulphur steam makes the colours softer: Solitary Geyser.
Plants on the Edge: a clump of grass survives surrounded by mineral deposits and “thermophiles” (heat-loving organisms).
Waters bubble delicately at Ear Spring.
The geysers of the Lion Group steam and “roar” before erupting.
Sawmill Geyser was one of my favourites because of the delicate streams of water it emitted regularly.
Sawmill Geyser
Scalloped Spring
The clear blue waters of Crested Pool are the result of constantly boiling temperatures keeping bacterial growth down. You can see the boiling around the edge.
Castle Geyser’s cone is thousands of years old and the platforms are even older.
The next lot of visitors watches from the Old Faithful Visiter Education Center as, right on cue, Old Faithful erupts yet again.
Old Faithful and the assortment of geysers and hot springs in the immediate area were so much more amazing than we had anticipated. The facilities are beautifully designed and managed, making much of this area accessible to almost anyone. This is one time when the “more travelled” road is well worth following!
Of course, as I said earlier, the park comprises over two million acres. It is so much more than just Old Faithful – but that will have to wait for another time.
what a wonderful trip and your photography is amazing, thanks as always for including us in your travels. Looking forward to the next installment 🙂ReplyCancel
[…] we had only a short visit, we did, of course, visit Old Faithful, taking the time to walk to the overlook, and to visit other geysers in the area. We also walked […]ReplyCancel
Olympic fever has gripped the television-watching-world. As I write this, the games are well into their second week and the people of the United Kingdom seem to have thrown themselves behind their Olympic athletes.
Two weeks before the games started, however, the people I talked to in London were grumbling about the inconveniences the games were causing and were expressing doubts about the city’s willingness or readiness to play host. I’ve lived in two previous host-cities, and I was sure they would have a change of heart once the games commenced. But with rain, gloom and traffic-grid-lock, Londoners were not convinced.
So, we were happy to leave the pessimism (if not the rain) behind us and drive southwest to the green fields of Wiltshire, and the medieval city of Salisbury. There, the shop-fronts, at least, were celebrating the upcoming games. To our surprise, so was Salisbury Cathedral!
Tourists huddled under umbrellas in the rain en-route to Salisbury Cathedral.
The Walking Madonna by Elisabeth Frink (1930-1993)
“London 2012”: Concept torso by Ben Dearnley, outside Salisbury Cathedral.
“London 2012”: The “concept torso” by Ben Dearnley features the London skyline on the inside to celebrate the UK’s role as Olympic host nation.
Salisbury Cathedral has an Arts program, and when we were there the cloisters of the cathedral were playing host to a series of works by the contemporary British sculptor Ben Dearnley (1964- ) in honour of the games. I was thrilled by this for two reasons: I love sculpture; and entry into the cathedral itself was prohibitively expensive for the short time we had available to us.
Intended to echo the classical sculptures of competitors from the original Greek games, these beautiful works are modelled on some of the UK’s Olympic and Paralympic athletes and focus on the ‘power zones’ central to their sports.
“Adam”, a concept sculpture featuring a keyhole in his arm to symbolise inner strength, sits at the entry to the cloister arches. (Salisbury Cathedral)
Louis Smith, Gymnast: Bronze medal Olympics 2008; Silver and Bronze medals Olympics 2012; European Champion, 2012.
Ade Adepitan, MBE, Basketball: Bronze, Paralympic Games 2004; Paralympic World Cup Champion 2005.
Oscar Pistorius, Athlete: Multiple Gold Medallists; Paralympic Games 2004/2008; Paralympic World Cup 2005; “Blade Runner” Olympics 2012.
Mark Foster, Swimmer: Olympics 1988/92/96/00/08; World Champion 1993/99/00/04 – in the cloisters of Salisbury Cathedral.
Salisbury Cathedral cloisters are reflected in the sabre of Alex O’Connell, Fencer: Olympics 2008.
Steve Williams OBE, Rower: World Champion 2000/01/05/06; Gold Medallist, Olympics 2004/08.
Lee Pearson OBE MBE, Dressage: Gold Medallist Paralympic Games 2000/04/08, is joined with his horse in this stone sculpture.
Concept sculpture: “Eve” celebrates all the female athletes at the London 2012 games. Behind her, a video presentation shows Ben Dearnley talking about his artistic inspiration and process.
These classical, yet modern, sculptures were a wonderful foil for the early English Gothic (1220 – 1258) cathedral. They were also a timely reminder that Olympian efforts come in all shapes and forms: physical, artistic and architectural.
The beauty and balance of the archways of the cloisters are an example of gothic architectural grace.
Flower-shaped keyholes look onto the spire (circa 1300) of Salisbury Cathedral.
Salisbury’s spire, Britain’s tallest contrasts elegantly with the glass and chrome roof of the cafeteria and gift-shop.
[…] my husband and I spent some time in Ireland (For blog posts see: Ireland) and England (eg: Salisbury and Brighton), and we were looking forward to a few days in Cornwall – all during a […]ReplyCancel
An Old Irish Blessing
May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind always be at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
If you walk Ireland’s Dingle Way, many a road will rise up to meet you. If you walk it during the wettest June in recorded history, much rain will fall soft upon your face and much rain will pound upon your head. Some winds will, indeed, be at your back – but many more will whip the plastic raincoat around your ears and impede your progress. And, you may despair of the sun shining ever again!
Or so it was for us, as we walked the 167 or 179 kilometres (depending on whom you believe) from Tralee to Camp and back again, around the Dingle Way. It was ten days of rain, wind and occasional sun – and it was marvellous. It must be VERY special in good weather!
We had booked our walk well ahead of time with “Footfalls”, who manage Irish walking tours: both guided and self-guided, which is what we were doing. They sent us travel notes and maps, booked our hotels, suggested places to eat, and got our bags from A to B. Once we got ourselves to Tralee, making use of the rather excellent Irish buses (Bus Éireann), we just had to walk the planned route, along mostly well-marked (albeit muddy, rocky and narrow) trails, to get ourselves to our nightly destinations.
Our first day of walking – “Day 2” – lured us into a false sense of security. The sun was shining and the birds were singing as we set off along the canal and across the River Lee to find the path around Slieve Mish Mountains, overlooking Tralee Bay.
The trail following the canal leading out of Tralee is well used by walkers and runners, and lined with modern buildings.
Life on the canal: a family of swans
Foothills of the Slieve Mish Mountains provide a backdrop to a modern thatched resort-complex.
A boat tied up on the River Lee – we think it might have been there a while!
Mudflats and clouds on the River Lee, at the mouth of Tralee Bay.
Once we cross the River Lee, we are into quiet country roads ~
~ and before long, we are passing bucolic fields.
Fuchsia grows wild all along the country lanes.
For a short while, we are amongst fields and farms ~
~ following roads bordered by hedges of honeysuckle, brambles, fuchsia and wild roses.
After what seemed like a long climb up a dwindling road, we carefully crossed a gateway onto the rocky paths and boggy grasslands of the Slieve Mish Mountain foothills.
The Tonavane Walk into the Slieve Mish Mountains.
Bog Cotton
The creeks are just marginally wetter than the bog-lands surrounding them.
Shire horses and sturdy ponies use the foundations of a ruined house to keep their feet dry on the bog.
The patch of lilies growing within the frame of the ruined house was a surprise!
One of the ponies was curious about what I was up to. Tralee Bay and the North Atlantic can be seen behind.
We saw more than a few sheep as we picked our way over the rocks and through the boggy patches; most, however, turned tail and scrambled away as soon as we were near. I was happy to catch this lamb with its mother.
The wet, black bog reminded me of The Beverly Hillbillies and their “black gold”.
We crossed numerous creeks…
… and countless styles.
Rocky piles formed partial fences.
All around the foothills, we had views of the North Atlantic, and parts of the Dingle Peninsula ahead.
Eventually, we worked our way out of the open bog and into forested paths, to find ancient ruins: this one of an old house.
Killelton Church, built in the 10th or 11th century with thick walls…
… made of piled rocks.
Outside the ancient church grounds, we find more fuchsia ~
~ and wild strawberries.
Finally! We come around a bend over Camp, our stop for the night.
We had no rain this day (the first and last day without rain for the whole of our walk – indeed for the whole of our stay in Ireland), but our boots were muddy and our pants were wet to the knees from the bogs we had sloshed across.
“I’ve seen worse!” our hostess laughed as we hobbled into our night’s accommodation.
So, we knew we were in good hands – and ready for the challenge of the next day’s adventure.
Ursula, great post.. May I ask what photographic gear did you bring on this trip..did you carry both cameras? Lenses? How did you protect them from the rain/weather?
It looks like a walk I would love to do. I may just have to follow you around on your adventures..
Catherine, thanks for your visit. 😀
You know me! I carried the lot: the 5D I got in exchange for my 7D, which I mostly use with the 16-24, but occasionally with the 70-300; my old 400D which generally sports the 24-70; my iPhone and my IXUS – all of which I used. 🙂 I was also carrying a little macro which I don’t think I used at all. We even carried the tripod one day, but with the rain, my enthusiasm for standing in one place was a little low, and so it never left its case. As for rain protection: two sleeves I bought from a nice lady in Cambodia, plastic ponchos from Australia and a couple of umbrellas from England; sometimes all of the above!ReplyCancel
Lisa Brockman -August 2, 2012 - 9:56 pm
Looks like fun! Looking forward to the following days . . .ReplyCancel
Hi Ursula, I’m sure those rocky roads played havoc with your hip.. however what a magnificent countryside. Looking forward to the next instalmentReplyCancel
Hey, Lisa and Signe!
Glad to have you both back. The walk was indeed “challenging”, but ultimately worth it. I hope to get back to the photos from the other days soon. 😀ReplyCancel
dietmut -August 4, 2012 - 9:13 am
Urusla, ik heb een prachtige wandeling met je samen gemaakt. Prachtige landschap. Ik wens je een fijn weekend, DietmutReplyCancel
Anna :o] and Dietmut,
Thanks so much for joining us on our long road. It is always a pleasure to have your company! 😀ReplyCancel
Elsie Ritchie -March 29, 2013 - 8:37 pm
Dear Ursula I would like to use in a privately printed family history two of your pictures from your walk called the Dingle way to illustrate the countryside The farmland i am looking for was half way between Camp and Annascaul and I would appreciate a boggy way and a view across farmland in that area. the farm itself was called Lougherbegg and was near a village called Lougher Hoping to hear Elsie RitchieReplyCancel
Thanks for your interest, Elsie. I’ll email you.ReplyCancel
Elsie Ritchie -March 29, 2013 - 8:41 pm
Dear Ursula I live in Sydney and would welcome a visit from you if you should be in the area if you felt it necessary to see what i do regards ElsieReplyCancel
[…] hue. And, as the skies opened and the rains fell on our heads on the second day of walking along The Dingle Way in County Kerry, we could easily understand why it was all so lush and […]ReplyCancel
Sukhothai, the UNESCO listed collection of Thai ruins that was, in the 13th and 14th centuries, the capital of the Sukhothai kingdom, is a remarkable place. Inside the ancient walls are the remains of the old royal palace and twenty-six temples. What is even more remarkable, however, is the beauty to be found outside the walls.
Beyond the northern walls of the ancient city of Sukhothai, but still part of the official “Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns”, are further treasures. When we saw the beautifully crafted marionettes and other carved products at the shops lining the quiet packed-dirt car-park outside Wat Si Chum, we knew we were in for a treat.
Delicate and elaborate marionettes welcome us to the parking lot of the Sukhothai North temples.
Lucky fish mobiles, woven from colourful bamboo, are also for sale.
The Mondop (small square temple building) of 13th Century Wat Si Chum lies at the end of a path across and expanse of grass.
As you get closer, the magnificent “Phra Achana” Buddha statue of Wat Si Chum comes into view behind the three-meter thick walls.
Phra Achana, the 15 meter Buddha seated in the Subduing Mara (Maravijayan: Calling the Earth to Witness) pose, is possibly one of the most beautiful Buddhas I’ve seen.
The lap of the Phra Achana Buddha is 11.5 meters wide. The fingers of the right hand are covered with gold leaf, applied by visitors paying their respects.
The roof of the mondop (mandapa: pavilion for religious ritual) has long-since fallen in, allowing a wonderful view of the sky above.
Close to the Phra Achana mondop is a smaller one built of laterite bricks, housing a smaller seated Buddha.
Bits of gold leaf are pressed to the Buddha’s upturned fingers.
Also north of the ancient city walls is the Khmer style Wat Phra Phai Luang, which pre-dates Sukhothai and was probably built during the reign of the Khmer king, Jayavarman VII (between 1181 and 1219).
Worn and weathered: Buddha head at Wat Phra Phai Luang.
The building was originally a Khmer Mahayana Buddhist temple, built on a site with evidence of earlier Hindu worship. It was later converted to a Theravada Buddhist temple, and today shows the signs of modern Thai worship.
The remains of a giant standing Buddha at Wat Phra Phai Luang.
Even the ruins of these ancient Buddhas have a timeless elegance.
Near the old Wat Phra Phai Luang is the modern Wat Phra Phai Luang, where a new hall is being build.
Inside the unfinished building, a Thai woman lovingly sands the new wooden baseboards. It reminded me of “The Karate Kid”: “Wax on, wax off.” The building of temples is a timeless way of creating calm and making merit.
Meanwhile, in the field outside, a young lad was determined so show me how he could chase the cattle.
Although the cattle are unmoved, I found his joy infectious as he ran around with his slingshot.
And so, life in all its aspects continues around these ancient temples built by long-dead kings – and we can continue to find joy and beauty in them.
Another nice photo series Ursula. I’ve been trying to think of a good excuse to return to Thailand (as if excuses are necessary) Sukhothai might be just the ticket! 🙂ReplyCancel
Thanks for the visits, Anna, Signe and Kevin!
Thailand needs no excuse – it is always a delight.
It seems a world away, now, as I sit in the Canadian Northwest, where summer is struggling to happen! 😉ReplyCancel
In the street stalls and in the shops: elaborately sequinned and feathered masks of all sizes and shapes, and Pinocchio marionettes, pencils, pictures and paraphernalia.
Pinocchio marionettes and Florentine masks.
Pinocchios on strings.
Apparently, Florence was the birth- and resting-place of Carlo Lorenzini (1826 – 1890), who (as Carlo Collodi) wrote the original stories of the woodcarver Geppetto and the marionette he crafted and named Pinocchio.
This is one of the many facts about Florence or Firenze that I didn’t know before visiting that fabled city last week.
My daughter and I were taking advantage of a cheap deal: one of those last-minute-specials that are available in Europe if you are willing to weekend with no more than you can carry in one small bag. Whatever I learned about the birthplace of the Renaissance in art history I had long-since forgotten, and my knowledge of the Medici family and the religious and political struggles in Italy is negligible.
So, before going, I looked Florence up on the web, and found a Top 10 Things to Do list, which I scanned and emailed to my daughter. But, we’ve been busy. By the time I was on the plane, I couldn’t remember anything about the art and the museums; all I could remember was the instruction to eat two scoops of gelato a day. I can do that!
My daughter wanted to see David, who (for reasons of modesty?) declined to be photographed. So, we had three days and two tasks: David and gelato. Lots and lots of gelato.
Fresh fruit, chocolate and coconut ~ all in gelato form.
Colourful gelatos are an integral part of the Florentine streets.
It didn’t take long, walking through the streets and markets, to realise that while Florence is the home of masks (which I had thought of as Venetian) and marionettes (which I hadn’t thought about at all), it is also home to all kinds of beauty, in leather, glass, ceramics, paper and jewels.
The street markets are full of colourful leather coats, bags and gloves.
Shops sport shoes and boots in gelato shades.
The magnificent churches aren’t the only place to find stained glass in all forms and styles.
Ceramics are everywhere: from ornately gilded and painted vases, jugs and containers ~
~ to Renaissance figurines ~
~ and “Tuscan” glazed pottery.
Beautiful paper-products are hand-made on site.
Deep, dark shops sell life’s staples: wines and cold-cuts.
Breakfast at Tiffany’s?
The beauty of Florence is in its streets; in its world-renowned architecture.
Florentine rooftops.
Beauty on the pavements: A chalk Mona Lisa.
Cheerful carousels.
Violent struggles.
Conquest.
The magnificent Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral (Duomo) is a work of art in and of itself.
The Ponte Vecchio, now home to expensive jewellery shops, is a glorious reminder of Florence’s equally decadent past.
Of course, people-watching is much more fun than architecture, and Italy is always a treat.
The modern Italian family – dressed for a special occasion.
A street musician, with his adoring fan, plays chill music.
And as a Florentine finale: newlyweds on a bicycle – what could be more Italian?
The city was bathed in heat and light – a wonderful change from the rain and overcast I’d been enduring for the previous five weeks in England, Ireland and Wales. I fully understand why people love the city – I’d go back any day, and not just for the gelato.
Oh Anna!
Those of you who live in England can go ANYWHERE, as my daughter (who has been agency-nursing in London this year) is discovering. The
Groupon specials turned out to be a great deal.
But, next time, we can go together. 😀ReplyCancel
For you, Signe, it’s only three flights and a bus away! 😉ReplyCancel
dietmut -July 24, 2012 - 6:27 pm
A very beautiful and colorful series Ursula. The ice will you have tasted. My granddaughters are also crazy of Italian ice. They are at the moment in Italy. Greetings DietmutReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
Of course, as I said earlier, the park comprises over two million acres. It is so much more than just Old Faithful – but that will have to wait for another time.
Well done sweetie. A good start. Looking forward to the complete set.
Ursula – can you believe that I have never been to Yosemite? It’s in my own country! You have inspired me. Great images of the park! lisa
Cheers!
Lisa, my pictures don’t begin to do it justice: it is amazing! Well worth the drive. 🙂
what a wonderful trip and your photography is amazing, thanks as always for including us in your travels. Looking forward to the next installment 🙂
[…] we had only a short visit, we did, of course, visit Old Faithful, taking the time to walk to the overlook, and to visit other geysers in the area. We also walked […]
[…] for Fallen RockThe road out of Yellowstone National Park and into the rest of Wyoming lead us through a magnificent rocky […]