The Pinnacles The white sands and red clay cliffs make a striking contrast to green eucalyptus, blue skies and water.
We live in a glorious corner of the universe, with National Parks, beaches, wetlands and mountains virtually at our doorstep. Trouble is, we are on the road so much that sometimes we forget to get out and explore when we are at home. That’s where having visitors comes in handy: there is no better way to appreciate your own neighbourhood than by showing it off to someone else!
It’s only a short drive from our little “Eden” to the northern half of Ben Boyd National Park – even so, we’d not been there before taking visitors to have a look last February.
The Walking Track It’s an easy one kilometre circuit out to the Pinnacles and back to the car-park.
The Path A short rise leads us up through the banksia trees.
Drying Banksia Flowers (Proteaceae) Soon they will lose their characteristic flower spikes, and the gnarly “cones” will be visible.
Saw Banksia or Old Man Banksia (Banksia Serrata) I can’t see these gnarled trees without thinking of the Australian children’s writer, May Gibbs…
May Gibbs “Gumnut babies” are the flower/seed pods of the Eucalyptus (https://www.kopida.com/2011/12/may-gibbs.html)
May Gibbs “The Banksia Men Make a Wicked Plot” (https://thinkdesignerprints.com.au/australiana/)
Banksia Branch Not quite “bad banksia men” yet, but these seed pods are browning.
Long Beach It looked like a beautiful afternoon on the beach. Usually you can walk down and view the Pinnacles from their base, but the steps were closed when we visited.
The Pinnacles The coloured cliffs of the Pinnacles come into view through Banksia branches.
More Banksia Trees line the sandy path around the point.
The Pinnacles The white sand and red clay cliffs of the Pinnacles were laid down over 30 million years ago.
Leaf Litter and Seed Pods
Termite Mound The vegetation changes dramatically on the second half of the path, with tall trees and termite mounds. We even spotted two black cockatoo overhead! They were too fast for my camera.
The short hike around the Pinnacles left us with time and energy to spare, especially as we couldn’t walk down to Long Beach. Just a ten minute drive up the road is Panboola, a protected wetlands, supported by National Parks and local agencies and industries, situated on 77 hectares (190 acres) of reclaimed farmland, town-land and a horse-racetrack.
It was late afternoon: a perfect time for a stroll.
Entry to Panboola We parked close to the entry and wandered some of the pathways around the 77ha (190 acre) wetlands.
Egret From a covered pavilion near the entry, we learned about the reserve, and watched local waterbirds.
Purple Wildflowers
Picnic Table There are places to sit, if you have time.
Purple Swamphens(Porphyrio porphyrio)
A Holstein Areas within the wetland are still used as farmland.
Old Stables Buildings from the abandoned racecourse sit around the track.
Old Grandstand
Eastern Grey Kangaroos (Macropus giganteus) Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to meet Australian wildlife. These kangaroos were the biggest I’ve come across.
Two more eastern grey kangaroos watch us from a safe distance…
… before bounding off into the scrub.
It is amazing what you find on your own doorstep!
Sometimes we forget that the “familiar” to us is “exotic” to someone else.
And, our own neighbourhoods are always worth exploring.
Guinness Black Ale Ready for drinking at the Gravity Bar, top floor of the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin (iPhone S4).
It was St Patrick’s Day this week, so it seemed fitting to return to another Irish cultural icon: Guinness.
July last year was wet in Ireland, and it rained much of the short time we were in Dublin. So, we visited the Guinness Storehouse: it was a good way to learn something about local history, while staying dry for a few hours.
As a bonus, we each got a “pint of black” with our entry price.
Sir Benjamen Lee Guinness (1798 – 1868) The grandson of Arthur Guinness (founder of the Guinness brewery) has his statue in front of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which his funding helped restore.
Guinness Storehouse Entry to the original St. James’s Gate brewery, established in 1759.
The original brewery at St James’s Gate is the centrepiece of the Guinness story. Inside the thick brick walls, what was once the old brewery and storehouse is now a museum built in girders and glass. Rising up the centre of the seven-story building is the world’s largest pint glass. At the base of the glass is a special document: the original 9000-year lease for the St James’s Gate property.
The Lease The original 9000-year lease for the St James’s Gate Brewery is part of Guinness mythology; harder to track is the real story of expansion (from 4 to 50 acres) and changes of ownership over recent years.
The Collection Making a point for the breadth of Guinness history, the bottle case reminds us about the role of legal documents and developments in transportation in the Guinness story.
A Guinness Guide Before we are let loose on the several floors of audio-visual displays, we are given a brief talk.
Bolts Dim lighting and “industrial” architecture foster the image of a once-working brewery.
Hops The brewing story starts with four natural ingredients: yeast, barley, hops…
Fresh Water … and water – lots of water.
Audio Visual A combination of displays, old machinery. and explanatory posters walk you through the process.
Old Machinery
Explanations on Glass
A Copper Kettle
Looking Down As we work our way up the “pint glass”, we can look back down over the ground-floor retail space.
Industrial Pipes
Machinery ~ Abstract Colour
As well as explaining the brewing process, the museum looks at distribution and transportation. My great-grandfather was a cooper, so I was particularly interested in watching the short film about the Guinness Master Cooper, Dick Flanagan, making barrels.
The Coopers’ Barrels An old film demonstrates the skill of the coopers who make the wooden barrels.
Coopers’ Tools
Labels over Time
A large section of the museum displays sponsorship and advertising over the years. Who can forget “I like to watch” or other famous Guinness ads from years gone by? There are also sections on health and responsible drinking, tracing family who might have worked for the company, and even cooking with Guinness.
In keeping with the mythology of the perfect beer, there is an entire section instructing you how to pour a pint: a six-step process, achieved in two stages and taking exactly 119.5 seconds!
Part-pints, ready to be topped up.
Guinness Baristas?
Glass Bricks The canteen on the sixth floor is empty as we work our way up the building.
The Perfect Pour? “Good things come to those who wait.”
The Gravity Bar On the top floor of the Storehouse, there is plenty of space to enjoy the views over Dublin.
Pony Trap Wet Dublin streets.
I confess: I don’t actually like Guinness, or any other beer.
I did my best to down my pint: I managed a quarter and gave the rest to my husband.
Outside it was still wet. Oh well – that’s Ireland.
[…] were on our way to Dublin (The Guinness Storehouse), zig-zagging across the country from the Connemara (Glimpses of Galway), stopping at sites from […]ReplyCancel
Kayak at Rest Roland Point, Skookumchuk Narrows, BC, Canada
Skookumchuk.
Anyone who has had anything to do with boating or waters in the Pacific Northwest has heard of the legendary Sechelt Rapids at Skookumchuk Narrows. Boats, especially sail boats, need to pay careful attention to tide charts, and only attempt the narrow pass between Sechelt and Jervis Inlets at slack tide.
Spectators and kayakers, of course prefer their waters wild.
Skookum is “strong” or “powerful” in Chinook Jargon, the Amerind pidgin long used in the Pacific Northwest as a trade language. Chuck means water, so skookumchuck is literally “strong water”: “rapids” or “whitewater”. Like many other works from Chinook, the word is in common usage today in the English of British Columbia, and refers to the powerful tidal rapids at the mouths of most of the major coastal inlets.
The waters at Skookumchuk Narrows live up to their name: they are famous for their spectacular whirlpools and whitewater. “On a 3 metre tide, 200 billion gallons of water flow through the narrows” at speeds up to – and sometimes exceeding – 30km an hour. Depending on the height of the prevaling tides, there can be more than 2 metres drop in water level from one side of the rapids to the other.
I grew up hearing stories about the rapids and had always wanted to see them. Located on the north end of the Sechelt Peninsula, vehicle access is reliant on car ferries. We had a small window of opportunity last summer, on our way to the Earls Cove Ferry Terminal, just north of Egmont where the 4 km walking trail to the Narrows starts.
Trail to the Narrows Most of the path through the tall Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock, and Western Red Cedar, is well maintained and easy walking.
Secret Bay We pass isolated Egmont homes and have a view down over the boats housed in the Bay before entering the Skookumchuk Narrows Provincial Park.
Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum) The temperate rainforest is rich with moss and ferns.
Spanish Moss According to one source, this moss lives on nutrients from dust particles and moisture in the air.
Delicate Fungus The dark, moist, forest floor plays host to all manner of vegetation.
Almost Abstract A view of Brown Lake, from behind a tangle of leaves.
The Narrows Although we have missed the strongest tide, we can hear the white waters before we can see them.
Pine Needles
Watching Water Silhouetted behind trees, people watch the churning water.
Sechelt Rapids Kayakers paddle against Sechelt Rapids as we watch from North Point.
Before the Change Kayaks paddling into the eddies of a slowly-flooding tide.
Solo Kayaker Paddling hard against the current…
Deceptive Calm The silky waters almost hide the strong currents of the flood tide.
Splash! Thank heavens for waterproof jackets and the spraydeck (or “skirt”) that keeps the water from filling the kayak!
Whitewater Kayakers test themselves against the slowing flood tide over Sechelt Rapids.
Riding The Tide A lone kayaker rides through the tide change at Skookumchuck.
The Tide View from Roland Point.
End of Day As the light drops and the tide falls, the kayakers call it a day.
Yellow Kayak
The Path Out Time to walk back through the hemlock, cedar and fir.
Still Waters The forest greens are reflected in the still waters of Brown Lake; stark contrast to the Rapids.
Watching the kayakers paddling madly against the oncoming currents and tides rather made me wish I was a little better at it!
Oh well.
We settled for the brisk walk back to the car and a quick drive to the Earls Cove Ferry, where our water transport was much more sedate.
just gorgeous… I love the look of rapids and am totally scared to death of them. So admire those healthy bods who get to play in such an outstanding location. Beautiful pictures as always Ursula…thank youReplyCancel
Thanks, Signe!
Watching those girls (most of them were female) paddle put me to shame! I last five minutes before resting my arms – and that is on still waters. 😉ReplyCancel
[…] patches of nature (e.g.: Walking in the Green; Tide Pools; Lighthouse Loop; Newcastle Island; “Strong Waters”; Clayoquot Sound; Walks in the Woods; etc.). All our stays have been regrettably fleeting, and the […]ReplyCancel
Little Novice Sitting on the banister: Shwenandaw Monastery, Mandalay
Temples in Southeast Asia are living places.
This is certainly true in Myanmar. The many Buddhist temples I visited there were architecturally beautiful – and different, with no two exactly the same. But what I generally find more interesting is the life – both sacred and secular – within and around them.
On my first afternoon in Mandalay, I and the nine other photographic-tour participants, under the guidance of Photographer Karl Grobl and local guide MM, visited three distinctly different religious buildings.
Our first stop was the wooden Shwenandaw Kyaungor Golden Palace Monastery. Built in traditional Burmese style in the 19th century by King Mindon Min (reigned 1852-1878) as a palace, this graceful teak building is covered, inside and out, with carvings. Originally, these carvings were coated in gold (hence the name), but tropical weather has taken its toll: no gold remains on the outside, and many of the carvings are worn beyond recognition.
It is still an elegantly beautiful place – with a number of cheeky little imps running around in their novice robes, waiting to meet visitors.
On the Stairs Shwenandaw Monastery
Deva on the Door Shwenandaw Kyaung Monastery is known for the magnificent teak carving adorning its doors and walls.
Devas and Imps? The very young novices are a contrast for the very old building. Shwenandaw Monastery
Little Angels I can’t help but wonder what their stories are.
In Thailand, many young boys are enrolled in the local monastery, not because of any particular religious inclination, but because their families cannot afford to send them to school otherwise (e.g. Little Angels). Apparently, it is a similar story in Myanmar, so I was very curious about the young novices we met: what were their lives really like? The life of a novice is not easy, but perhaps it is easier than living in a poor rural household.
At the gates of the temple, it was getting busier, with people coming and going; many stopping in to the monastery grounds make offerings.
At the Gates A woman pauses at the gates of Shwenandaw Monastery.
Cycle Man This man was waiting to chauffeur his friends home after their visit to Shwenandaw Monastery.
Three Little Maids I couldn’t help but think of The Mikado as I made this photo of three women giggling.
Our second stop at The Kuthodaw Pagoda or Maha Lawka Marazein Paya (Royal Merit Pagoda) was a complete contrast. Although it was built during the same period, it served a very different purpose. King Mindon Min was concerned about the invading British and what their presence in Burma would mean for Buddhist teachings.
Saungdan (covered entry) to the World’s Largest Book The Kuthodaw Pagoda or Maha Lawka Marazein Paya
The Kuthodaw Pagoda is called the World’s Largest Book. King Mindon had the entire 15 books of the Tripitaka, the sacred scriptures of Theravada Buddhism, inscribed in gold on huge marble tablets. Each of these 729 double-sided slabs is housed in its own small stupa or kyauksa gu.
Pali Scripture Each tablet is five feet tall and three-and-a-half feet wide; scribes took three days to write the words on both sides, then stonemasons chiselled 16 lines a day, before painters filled with the script with gold.
Kyauksa Gu Rows of stone-inscription caves, the white stupas housing the scriptures.
Afternoon Storms Weather threatens the domed stupas of Kuthodaw Pagoda.
Lone Monk … between the stupas of Kuthodaw Pagoda.
Family Group An extended family gathers in a sheltered hallway of Kuthodaw Pagoda.
Souvenir Seller Tourists wanting a souvenir, or worshipers looking for an offering; someone will take care of you!
Spire A last look back at the sky over a Kuthodaw Pagoda stupa.
It was getting dark as we arrived at our last temple-stop of the day, but fortunately the rains held off. We positioned ourselves on the upper balcony of a modest monastery, and waited as a young monk struck a metal bong repeatedly with a heavy wooden striker. Quietly, walking barefoot, maroon-robed monks emerged from all directions, and lined up to enter the prayer hall.
Strike the Gong A call to evening prayers rings out across the monastery.
Silent Prayers Noiselessly, maroon-clad monks line up …
Like Ghosts … and silently enter the prayer hall.
Evening Prayers An hour of chanting in Pali before bed…
… turns little imps …
… into little angels.
I am seldom bored visiting temples: as I said before, architecturally, they are all very different.
And, they are busy places.
These pictures are just a sampling of the life within them.
Hi Darrell!
Thanks for “visiting”. Actually, I can’t remember the name of the third one that day… Shhh! Don’t tell anyone.
These days we are “road tripping” in Australia a fair bit – off the Byron at the end of the month. Then, off to North America to escape the antipodean winter.
I hope we cross paths again one day – Pushkar in November? 😀ReplyCancel
michael carter -March 7, 2013 - 1:09 pm
thanks for posting this Ursula.
Metta is a great word 😉
Fantastic as always, and they are all so different yet the same…love it. I’m in Byron/Ballina on the 23/24th for a quick weekend of business… maybe a coffee if you’re there at the same time 🙂ReplyCancel
From the mines to the temples, gold is everywhere. Shwedagon Pagoda, for example, is covered in 60 tons of gold, pounded into thin leaves.
Gold is an integral part of Burmese life. Every day, faithful Burmese apply gold leaf to their favourite Buddha images as offerings. So much gold leaf has been pasted to the face and front of country’s most revered Buddha at the Mahamuni Temple (A future post: watch this space!) that it has become almost unrecognisable.
Those gold leaves are the result of hours of hard labour, as I discovered on a visit to the King Galon Gold Leaf Workshop in Mandalay last September.
I had no trouble believing that, as I watched the workers sweating as they swung their fifteen pound hammers against a “cutch” – a packet of about 150 sheets of skin interleaved with small lumps of gold and tied together with parchment – rhythmically until the gold was about .000005 of an inch thin.
No artificial light. No artificial ventilation. Just pounding heat and noise.
King Galon Gold Leaf Workshop A gold pounder takes a break next to the Workshop entrance.
Guide with the Gold Our guide explains the process…
Hammering … while workers hammer in the background.
Hammer in Motion Turning gold into leaf takes a lot of heavy, rhythmic pounding.
A worker takes a short break and poses for a picture …
… before tying a new parchment packet to the block.
I couldn’t help but wonder at the name of the workshop: King Galon.
Galon, better known in the West as a garuda, is the half-man half-raptor vehicle of Vishnu and enemy of the naga, the dragon snake. The image has long been an integral part of iconography in Southeast Asia. In the 1930’s, the galon became the symbol of Burmese resistance against colonial rule, with Saya San, the rebel leader becoming known as the Galon King. Followers of Saya San were often tattooed with garuda symbols to show their allegiance.
Worker’s Back Sweat and light play against religious tattoos.
A Man and his Hammer I think he is used to pausing for the tourists.
Mythical struggles still play out in tattoo images.
Fanning a packet of gold leaf.
Used parchment wrappers collect on the cement floor.
The packaging process is as delicate as the pounding is physical. This is the women’s domain. In a small airless room several women, seated on rattan mats on the floor around low tables, work at cutting and packaging the small squares of gold leaf. The windows are tightly closed, as any wind might blow the precious gold away.
A Backlit Workspace A young woman carefully cuts the thinly pounded gold leaf.
Hands at Work It is important to achieve small squares – without tears in the precious gold.
Leaf Worker No extended maternity leave for this young mum.
Her son, the Baby Goldbeater…
… clearly knows where his future lies!
Senior Leaf Worker This woman has more than twenty years experience in all aspects of the gold leaf packaging.
Once packaged, the gold leaf squares are sold, so that people might offer them to the Buddha – or eat them, as some Burmese believe small amounts of gold are good for your for health. Some of the gold is gilded onto souvenirs for sale.
Kyaikto – Golden Rock Golden Souvenirs from the Golden Land
Golden Owls Considered lucky by Burmese, these owls should be kept in pairs.
It was an interesting visit – a brief insight into other people’s lives.
Still, you can add goldbeating to the growing list of “jobs I’m glad I don’t have to do!”
Fantastic post Ursula!
Wonderful images and tons of great information that I never knew about the gold beating process! I’ll share this post with MM and all the folks on the current tour.
Happy shooting and I can’t wait for your next blog-post.
Cheers,
KarlReplyCancel
Hi Jens,
Thanks for your visit.
The King Galon Gold Leaf Workshop is at:
36th St, 77/78, Mandalay Myanmar
Cheers!ReplyCancel
adolfo -September 1, 2016 - 4:36 am
Ursula and friends of Mandalay. I live in Brazil and wish to buy gold leaf for offering to Buddha that are made in their country. I would be very happy to get this wonderful work you see on this site. Please notify me how proveder to make purchase. A big Brazilian hug.ReplyCancel
adolfo -September 1, 2016 - 5:09 am
Ursula. Good Morning . If you can send me email or other way of communication with: The King Galon Gold Leaf Workshop, as would be happy to buy this wonderful product. A big hug . Thank you.ReplyCancel
Hi Adolfo,
Thanks for your visit! I’ve sent you an email.
Cheers, UrsulaReplyCancel
adolfo -September 1, 2016 - 8:55 pm
Úrsula.Boa tarde . Obrigado pela resposta breve que me fez . Agradeço sua orientação e estou procurando uma agência em Mandalay que possa me ajudar . Parabéns pelas fotos . Espero que faça muitas viagens . Um grande abraço e bom final de semana .ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
It is amazing what you find on your own doorstep!
Oh well.
very interesting the banksia treee and flowers. Greetings and Happ Easter, Dietmut
I get homesick looking at these pics. It was so interesting and beautiful
Thanks, Dietmut and Anna! I’m always happy to show people around my neighbourhood. 😀