A dirt path leading through Pacific Northwest woods, Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC

Into the Woods
It’s a pleasant walk around the grounds of Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC.

Kermit the Frog lamented on the difficulties of being green.

It’s not that easy bein’ green
Having to spend each day the color of the leaves
When I think it could be nicer being red or yellow or gold
Or something much more colorful like that

It’s not easy bein’ green
It seems you blend in with so many other ordinary things
And people tend to pass you over ’cause you’re
Not standing out like flashy sparkles in the water
Or stars in the sky

It may not be easy being green, but I always feel better when I am surrounded by it.

During our too-brief stay in some smaller communities in Canada’s forested and green British Columbia last July, we took advantage of the wilds on our doorsteps, and walked out into the woods whenever we could.

While staying in Mission, a small city on the north bank of the Fraser River, about 60km inland from Vancouver, we visited the nearby Benedictine monastery of Westminster Abbey.

View of Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC from across wet green lawns; gray skies behind.

Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC

The order was established in 1939, and construction of the abbey, church, and seminary, all designed by Norwegian architect, Asbjørn Gåtheat, started at this site in 1953. The monks took up residence the next year.

During the school term, the Abbey is home to the only Anglophone high school seminary in Canada and a college degree program. While we were there, however, the church was padlocked tight, and the grounds were quiet. We saw one small group of visiting religious – perhaps escorted by one of the 30 resident monks.

Orange-Red Berries against green leaves, Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC

Orange-Red Berries

Large black slug on moss and leaf litter, Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC

A damp climate with plenty of dark, green places, means slugs can usually be found.

View up the Fraser River valley from Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC

The abbey grounds provide a commanding view up the Fraser River Valley.

Green landscape: small group of people, including nuns in habit, walking, Westminster Abbey, Mission, BC

A group of visitors inspect some of the grounds’ 70 hectares.

Detail: Pine Cones, Westminster Abbey, Mission, Bc

Pine Cones

From the Abby, it is not far to Rolley Lake Provincial Park, which – in the words of their own website – “provides a quick escape from urban life”.

Lakeside Loop, around Rolley Lake, provided us with with a delightful walk through more green…

Landscape: View over Rolley Lake

Rolley Lake

Two boys in the distance, view of the curving wooden boardwalk section of the Lakeside Loop, Rolley Lake, BC

A boardwalk section of the Lakeside Loop skirts over wetlands.

Inside a douglas fir forest, Rolley Lake Provincial Park

Once Were Woods…
Anything could be lurking – it’s like something out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale!

Close up: moss on a tree trunk.

Mossy Woods
If you get lost, just remember that moss grows denser on the north side of trees.

Branches covered in short Spanish moss criss-crossing, Rolley Lake Provincial Park.

Spanish Moss

Trees leaning over a clear, rocky-bed creek, Rolley Lake Provincial Park

Woods and Clear Waters

Small tumbling waterfall over rocks and moss, Rolley Lake Provincial Park

Tumbling White Waters

Dry brown dead leaves, hanging against fresh green of new growth, Rolley Lake Provincial Park

Dead Leaves

Closeup of Moss, Rolley Lake Provincial Park

More Moss

Lanscape View: people kayaking and fishing on Rolley Lake, BC

Rolley Lake is a popular kayaking, swimming and fishing spot.

A few days later, we had the chance to wander some of the seven kilometres of trails that criss-cross Cliff Gilker Park in Roberts Creek, on BC’s Sechelt Peninsula. We walked well-maintained spongy trails through Douglas Fir and Red Cedar trees, climbed stairs, clambered over rocks and crossed charming bridges over Clack and Roberts Creeks.

View through trees of a small Waterfall, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Small Waterfall, Cliff Gilker Park

View of branches of Evergreen Trees, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Evergreen Trees

Spanish Moss on criss0-crossing tree branches, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Spanish Moss on Lowered Branches

The thick, deeply grooved Bark of a large Douglas fir tree, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Textures: The Bark of a Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) 

Small Red Berries against green leaves, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek

Small Red Berries

Salmonberry - Rubus spectabilis - on a green shrub, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Salmonberry – Rubus spectabilis

Fallen trees wedged amongst other trees, Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Even the Mighty Fall!

Cedar and fir: Beautifully straight, tall tree trunks - Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek, BC

Cedar and fir both have beautifully straight, tall tree trunks.

Forest scene: Fallen log and Water Falling,  Cliff Gilker Park, Roberts Creek

Fallen Log and Water Falling

Thanks to Joe Raposo‘s lyrics, Kermit comes to grips with being green:

But green’s the color of Spring
And green can be cool and friendly-like
And green can be big like an ocean
Or important like a mountain
Or tall like a tree

When green is all there is to be
It could make you wonder why
But why wonder, why wonder?
I am green and it’ll do fine
It’s beautiful!
Text: Happy RamblingAnd I think it’s what I want to be!

I’m glad – because I love it.

Photos: 25July 2012 and 28July2012

  • Signe Westerberg - May 3, 2013 - 3:50 am

    gorgeous as always…and moss in the southern hemisphere is thicker on the southern side and moss in itself is a sign of good clean air. 🙂 Moss apparently doesn’t grow in polluted environs 😛ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 9, 2013 - 6:37 pm

      True, Signe, ’tis good air in the beautiful PNW. btw: Where does moss grow on the equator? 😀ReplyCancel

  • […] gone back to Canada for visits, we’ve searched out little emerald patches of nature (e.g.: Walking in the Green; Tide Pools; Lighthouse Loop; Newcastle Island; “Strong Waters”; Clayoquot Sound; Walks […]ReplyCancel

Young novice nun in White, clutching her alms bowl, looking over her shoulder. Mahagandayon Monastery, Mandalay

Phothudaw (ဖိုးသူတော်) – Acolyte
Mahagandayon Monastery, Amarapura

It is a different world…

Temples and monasteries are an integral part of life in Myanmar. They accommodate about half a million males, who are either vocational monks or novices, and around 50,000 nuns. That is: roughly one percent of the population actually lives in one of the many monasteries or nunneries, completely dependent on the laity for all their material needs.

Theravada Buddhist monastic life has a strict daily routine revolving around prayers and religious study, but it is the silent alms-rounds (e.g. Sangkhlaburi, Chiang Rai, and Luang Prabang) and the mealtimes (e.g. Lining up for Lunch) that fascinate outsiders and which provide such rich photographic opportunities.

View of young monks behind a half wall: one shaving the other

The Morning Shave
Mahagandayon Monastery

Being a “tourist attraction” is a dilemma for monastic institutions: while having visitors contributes to their financial well-being, and promotes cultural understanding, it can be disruptive. ‘Boundaries’ are different between cultures, and many tourists seem to be unaware (or to deliberately ignore) local expectations of behaviour within sacred grounds.

Mahagandayon Monastery in Amarapura, outside Mandalay is on just about every Burmese travel-agent’s itinerary. Founded around 1914, it is one of the largest teaching monasteries in Myanmar, and home to up to 2000 monks at any given time.

The common areas of Mahagandayon Monastery are quite open, but visitors are clearly instructed which parts are out-of-bounds to them: an injunction that more than one tourist, unfortunately, ignores. Daily, tourists descend mid-morning to watch the resident monks line up silently and systematically for their lunch – their last meal of the day.

An elder monk walking on the sidewalk, Mahagandayon Monastery

Abbot
Mahagandayon Monastery

Monks forming Lunch Lines in the rain, Mahagandayon Monastery

Start of the Lunch Lines

Young Burmese Theravada Buddhist monks line up with their alms bowls, Mahagandayon Monastery

Eyes Down
Young monks line up for lunch.

Environmental Portrait: Young Burmese Theravada Buddhist Monk in a queue, Mahagandayon Monastery

Young Monk Waiting

The bare feet of burmese Buddhist monks, Mahagandayon Monastery

Best Foot Forward
Bare feet on the wet walkways of Mahagandayon Monastery.

Line of Burmese Theravada buddhist monks, Mahagandaryon Monastery

Lines Moving into Lunch

Because visitors cannot be relied upon not to disturb the monks during their silent mealtime, they are no longer allowed inside the dining hall. So I, my nine photo-group companions, our leader Karl Grobl, and our guide Mr MM, remained outside, in the rainy streets and alleys of the monastery while the the monks ate in peace.

Once they finished eating, they filed out and commenced cleaning up.

Silhouette of a theravada buddhist monk in a lunchroom, Mahagandayon Monastery

Lunchroom, Mahagandayon Monastery

Young burmese theravada buddhist monk Washing Dishes, Mahagandaryon Monastery

Washing Dishes

Portrait: Monk Closeup Mahagandaryon Monastery

Greeting Visitors and Pilgrims

Chinese Monk in long yellow robes in the wet street through Mahagandayon Monastery

Chinese Monk
Visitors and pilgrims to Mahagandayon Monastery come from all over.

Burmese Theravada Monk talking to a blond woman, Mahagandayon Monastery

Monk Talking to a Visitor
Many of the monks at the monastery were articulate in English, and outspoken about their country’s history and politics.

Laneway Mahagandayon Monastery

Cross Cultural Discussions

Monk walking in a laneway, Mahagandayon Monastery

Monk in a Lane Way

A Theravada Monk on a balcony, Mahagandayon Monastery

From a balcony, a monk watches the visitors below.

Woman Waiting Mahagandaryon Monastery

Woman Waiting
Indigent people wait…

Young monk giving food to an indigent woman, Mahagandaryon Monastery

Alms for the Poor
… until the monks give them leftovers.

Young monk at a square water trough, washing dishes, Mahagandayon Monastery

Washing Up

We left the monks and the Mahagandayon Monastery to get our own lunch in Sagaing, southwest of Mandalay. Above the Ayeyarwady River, the Sagaing Hills are dotted with monasteries and nunneries; we stopped at one nunnery, where the women were busy preparing food for the next day: for themselves and for the neighbouring monks.

Three burmese nuns in pink robes and red skirts, sitting on a bench, preparing food, Sagaing Hill

Three Nuns, Sagaing Hill
Even though their last meal of the day is before noon, preparation for the next day’s meal starts early.

Portrait of a laughing burmese nun, Sagaing Hill

The nunnery is full of laughter.

Portrait of a smiling burmese nun, Sagaing Hill

The women have a natural beauty.

Portrait of laughing burmese nuns, preparing vegetables, Sagaing Hill

Work is easy when you have a friend to laugh and gossip with.

Portrait of a smiling burmese nun, Sagaing Hill

An older nun smiles at a kitchen doorway.

Portrait of a smiling burmese nun drawing water from a tap, Sagaing Hill

Another nun collects water.

Burmese nuns washing in a bucket, Sagaing Hill

Even though washing-up conditions are a bit rough, everything looks spotless.

Text: Metta - wishing you loving kindness.It is a different world.

Structured. Ordered. With a time and place for everything.

But, there is always acceptance and a welcome for outsiders, and there is always time for a smile and a laugh.

It’s a pretty good world, really, and I hope future visitors show it the respect it deserves, lest we not be invited back.

Pictures: 14September2012

  • Signe Westerberg - April 25, 2013 - 11:10 pm

    Beautiful as always Ursula, what fabulous smiles and giving people.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 26, 2013 - 12:37 am

      Pleasure, as always, Signe, to have you along. 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Ayn Brown - May 3, 2013 - 2:11 pm

    Love it, such a beautiful portrayal of the spirit in the monasteries.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 3, 2013 - 9:50 pm

      Thanks, Ayn. I would have loved more time with the nuns. Amazing place, isn’t it?ReplyCancel

  • […] “Being a ‘tourist attraction’ is a dilemma for monastic institutions: while having visitors contributes to their financial well-being, and promotes cultural understanding, it can be disruptive. ‘Boundaries’ are different between cultures, and many tourists seem to be unaware (or to deliberately ignore) local expectations of behaviour within sacred grounds.” -Weekly Wanders […]ReplyCancel

  • Aurora Lambino - December 3, 2016 - 6:13 pm

    Thank you for a more detailed insight of what Mahagandayon Monastery has to offer. We were brought there and given basic knowledge of it being a teaching monastery. Like you, we had seen the activities that you had featured in your write up, except the interaction of the monks and the lay “tourist”. I thought, one can not even engage them in any conversation, so, out of respect, I did not speak to any one except ask permission for a photo or two. Most have been very obliging.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - December 4, 2016 - 12:55 am

      Hi Aurora,
      Thanks so much for your visit and your comments.
      It’s always hard to know how/if we should interact with people in these “foreign” settings – even when our guides have given a briefing. I tend to keep my camera down until I’ve made eye-contact, and “ask” for consent wordlessly. The monks or nuns then take the next step, and I get a better sense what is ok. As you say, they are usually MUCH more obliging than I would be in their shoes!
      Cheers! U.ReplyCancel

  • […] Por ser tudo muito perto, rapidamente chegamos ao aeroporto e, meia hora depois de decolarmos, chegamos a Mandalay. Como a proposta sempre é aproveitar cada minuto, nossa programação já estava pronta e, assim que desembarcamos, fomos até Amapura para visitarmos Mahagandayon Monastery – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8o5nTGX_8Uhttps://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/religious-practice/monks-nuns-and-a-monastic-life-mahagandayon-m… […]ReplyCancel

  • လင်း - May 24, 2024 - 2:28 am

    The white-robed “boy” in the first photo is a “phothudaw” (ဖိုးသူတော်) a white-robed “acolyte”, Not a “novice nun”!ReplyCancel

A canal with water wheels under an avenue of trees, Nîmes, France.

Avenue Jean Jaures
Nîmes gets its name from Nemausus, a Celtic god who was worshiped at the local spring. Les Quais de la Fontaine, the embankments of the spring, were laid out in the 1700s.

It’s autumn in Australia at the moment, which makes me think of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. Defies logic, I know, but there is something about the freshness of the air this change-of-season that has me humming: “I love Paris in the springtime…” and thinking of my last time in France, back in the spring of 2011, which is when we stopped for a day in Nîmes.

I’d been to Nîmes before: while I was a University student in Western Canada, I spent a summer working for friends who had bought an Auberge (country inn) in Gard, just outside this ancient southern city. I remembered it for it’s well-preserved Roman ruins, it’s cicadas, and its dry, shimmering heat.

I also remember it’s preoccupation with bulls.

Modernistic sculpture of a bull under red and yellow light ~ Lucien Blanc

Toro Miura qui Possede un Coeur ~ Miura Bull who Has a Heart
Lucien Blanc

That summer in Gard was the first (and only) time-and-place I attended a bull fight. Not the ‘glamourous’ Spanish fights with fancy toreadors in tight black pants, sparkly gold boleros, and red capes; no – more a ‘rodeo’ variety in a make-shift pen, with bull-fighters with pink and yellow capes that reminded me of cheap raincoats.

Composite: Five scanned photographs from a rustic bullfight, south of France, 1979

“Torro Piscine”
Bull Ring ~ Scanned photographs from a rustic bullfight near Nîmes, south of France, 1979.

It was a very long time ago, and I was keen to see if the city could live up to my distant memories of it. We were on our way to the start of our second walk in the French Pyrenees, travelling south from the Auvergne, so Nîmes was the perfect place to stop over. I booked a room close to the train station, and we set out with a city map, for a walk.

Wide-angle front-view of Le Palais de Justice in Nîmes.

Le Palais de Justice
Inspired by La Maison Carrée, the Nimes Law Courts were built between 1836-1846 by architect Gaston Bourdon.

Outdoor scene: people eating at coffee shop tables in a plaza. Nîmes

Life in the Palazzo

Well preserved Roman amphitheatre against a blue sky, Nîmes.

Les Arènes de Nîmes
Nîmes’ elliptical amphitheatre, built around 70 AD, is the best-preserved Roman arena in France.

Street view: Port de France, Nimes

Port de France
Locals go about their business through one of the two remaining gates from the original Augustine ramparts.

Posters for a dance and a play on a narrow street, Nîmes.

Modern Urban
Fresh paint and posters set off the old walls in the narrow streets.

Relief statues of saints: Frieze L

L’Eglise St Paul
Decorated in Roman provençal style, St Paul’s Church was inaugurated in 1849. Following periods of change, Nîmes had become the major metropolis of Bas-Languedoc by the 19th Century.

Looking up at the roof of the Maison Carrée, Nîmes.

La Maison Carrée
Built of local limestone by architects from Rome around 20 BCE, The Square House was designed by Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, who was responsible for the Pantheon in Rome.

Side view of the Maison Carrée, Nîmes

La Maison Carrée
The temple was originally dedicated to Gaius and Lucius, adopted sons of Augustus. It is one of the most beautiful and best preserved temples in the former Roman Empire.

Statue of Emperor Antonin

Emperor Antonin (86 – 161)
Nîmes was part of the Roman empire from 118 BCE, and made a “colony” by Augustus in 27 BCE.

Lanscape: View across the canal to the roadway leading into the Jardins de la Fontaine, Nîmes

Avenue Jean Jaures
Leading into the Jardins de la Fontaine.

Stairways from the Jardins de la Fontaine to Mount Cavalier, Nîmes

Jardins de la Fontaine ~ The Gardens of the Fountain 
Built in the middle of the 18th century, the gardens effectively protect two major Roman ruins.

Looking up to the sky, through fresh green spring leaves.

Fresh Green
The trees in the garden are wearing their spring finery.

Ancient statue of a bearded man, Jardin de la Fontaine, Nîmes.

The gardens are home to ancient statues …

Young man sitting curb side with a guitar, Jardin de la Fontain, Nîmes

… and living art.

Nîmes

Temple de Diane
My favourite ruin, possibly because it is less well-preserved, is the Temple of Diana. Some say it was built as a sacred fountain dedicated to Nemausus during the time of Augustus. Others say it was built in the 2nd century as a library.

Inside the Temple of Diana, Nîmes

Inside the Temple

Pillars and arches, Temple of Diane, Nîmes

Ancient Pillars

Close-up of ancient, delicately carved stonework, Temple of Diane, Nîmes

Temple of Diane
Fragments of delicately carved stonework remain.

Close-up: purple pea-like flower.

Spring Blooms
Trees and bushes with these purple pea-like flowers were everywhere in the south.

View through rich foliage, up a path to La Tour Magne

La Tour Magne
It’s a short walk up the hill from the gardens to the La Tour Magne.

Ruins of La Tour Magne, Nîmes, against a blue sky.

La Tour Magne ~ The Great Tower
Once part of the old ramparts.

Looking up inside La Tour Magne, Nîmes.

The top storey has disappeared, but the tower still rises to a height of about 32m.

View over Nîmes from La Tour Magne.

Nîmes
A climb up the insides of La Tour Magne afford a great view over the city.

Olive tree and vegetation at the base of La Tour Magne, Nîmes.

The old olive tree and other vegetation at the base of the tower give an indication of the dry heat I remember so vividly from my earlier visit. Even though it was still spring, the day was hot and clear.

View of Les Arènes de Nîmes from the sidewalk café across the road.

Les Arènes de Nîmes
 During the Middle Ages, the arena was used as a fortress – a refuge for the population in case of danger. It was later filled with private houses, until the nineteenth century. Today, the amphitheatre is used for bullfights, music concerts. and other events.

Low light: inside the ancient arena, Les Arènes de Nimes

Les Arènes de Nimes
Inside the corridors of the arena, it is easy to imagine the ancient battles. The lion’s cages, and a chapel for the gladiators are all here.

Julie Donzala on a white horse conducting a fight with a mock-up bull

Modern “Bull Fight”
We were lucky enough to be  visiting during one of the two annual bull festivals: “La Primavera des Aficionados” (Spring of the Fans)Julie Donzala demonstrates her skills.

Hot pink toreador capes, Les Arènes de Nimes

Hot Pink
There are the capes of my memory!

A papier-mâché and wooden bull-head on wheels, controlled by a young man, Les Arènes de Nimes

Fortunately, the only “bulls” we saw were papier-mâché and wood on wheels.

Les Arènes de Nimes

Boy Toreadors
Young lads waiting for their turn with the “bulls”.

A draft horse being fitted with a heavy padded "skirt", Les Arènes de Nimes

This horse is being dressed for it’s role as a picador in a fight with real bulls.

Portrait: French man in a cap and red tee, Les Arènes de Nimes

Cavalier
One of la cavalerie de Philippe Heyral.

People in the ruins and stands, Les Arènes de Nimes

The Arena
It’s a quiet afternoon in the stands.

Text: Happy TravelsNîmes was still hot. It was still preoccupied with bulls. And the Roman ruins were still fabulous.

I didn’t hear any cicadas, but it was only April…

It was good to be back.

Pictures: 09April2011

  • Signe Westerberg - April 19, 2013 - 5:54 am

    How amazing and what history… were you a history buff before travelling or has it inspired you? thanks as always for sharing your travels.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 19, 2013 - 7:06 am

      Hi Signe,

      Thanks for visiting. Actually, most history bored me to tears at school, and I struggled to remember all the requisite dates. When I first went to England, however, I was captivated by the history in the very stones and walls of the buildings. And the gossip! All those plots and feuds!! Nothing like they taught us at school. 😉ReplyCancel

  • […] far-flung as South Wales (i.e.: Caerleon – watch this space!) and the south of France (see: Ancient History: Nîmes) and Spain (see: Layers: Cartagena and Málaga) brings history to life, and makes me marvel at the […]ReplyCancel

Dark blue stage with singer and band backlit by white light.

Karise Eden
Rocking the Blues

Got your gumboots? Got a raincoat, plenty of water, a folding chair and/or an inexhaustible supply of energy? The Byron Bay Blues and Root Festival is the place to be on an Easter (Autumn) weekend in Australia.

There is nothing like music to lift your spirits. Add good company and wholesome food, and you have an unbeatable festival weekend. Of course, into each festival, some rain must fall; the event would not be complete without mud.

Started as the East Coast Blues Festival at the Byron Bay Arts Factory in 1990 with a modest international and local lineup, Bluesfest has evolved into a major five-day event. We only attended three of the five days: we weren’t sure that our ageing ears and bones would hold up to any more!

We decided to ease in with something familiar, Hat Fitz and Cara whom we last saw perform at the Thredbo Blues Festival in 2012. In spite of Cara still wearing an eye-patch following a car accident last December, their powerhouse performance (and between-song-patter) was in no way diminished.

Portrait: Australian bearded male in a hat singing. Hat Fitz

Hat Fitz
Rough, gravel tones belting out a tune.

Male guitarist and female percussion on stage: Hat Fitz and Cara Robinson

Hat Fitz and Cara Robinson
A musical duo with powerhouse vocals.

Taj Mahal laying guitar, Bluesfest 2013

Taj Mahal
As good as ever…

Backlit portrait: Ben Harper on guitar

Ben Harper
Bridging the gap between the old and the young

The Byron Bluesfest attracts a wonderful range of international performers across a breadth of styles. The last time I attended, back in 1999, I sought out Taj Mahal, Jimmy Webb, Tony Joe White, and other sounds of my adolescence, but I also let my teenaged children introduce me to Ben Harper, Keb’ Mo’ and Angelique Kidjo. What a great way of rediscovering youth, reliving all the great moments since, and getting glimpses into the future of music.

Dark blue stage: Shuggie Otis, spotlit on guitar, pianist in background

Shuggie Otis
A musical family delivers

Portrait: Robert Cray in blue and pink light, on guitar.

Robert Cray
Cheeky and smooth at the same time.

Over 100,000 people attended this year – not all at the same time, mind you. On Friday, however, as I tried to catch sight of Carlos Santana, whose music was part of the very fabric of my teens. and who, more recently, danced me through my wedding, it felt like they were all in the tent with me – pushing four directions at once.

Silhouetted hands holding a smartphone at a concert

Smartphone
Sometimes the best view of the stage is through someone else’s smart phone. 🙁

Santana - in person on a distant stage, and projected on a large screen behind.

Thank Heavens for the Big Screens!
Squashed into an aisle behind the sound stage, I could barely see over the heads in front…

In spite of the obstacles, nothing could diminish Santana’s performance: one hour and a half of unadulterated joy and energy! Somehow, being there, even when you can barely see, is better than a clearer view at home on a television. Confined as we were, bodies squashed together, we danced all the way through the performance, and back out of the tent at the end.

Pat Wilder and the Music Maker Blues Revue on stage at Byron Bluesfest 2013

Traditional Blues and Southern Roots
Pat Wilder and the Music Maker Blues Revue

I love the mix of old, traditional performers (like the artists supported by the Music Maker Blues Revue) and local talent, like the young Genevieve Chadwick, who we first saw at Thredbo Blues 2013, and Lil’ Fi, who has been a part of the local arts seen for a while. And although none of them are female, we were as captivated by Round Mountain Girls as they were by the mountain that gives them their name. It’s these surprises you find, sometimes while looking for something else, that make festivals such a treat.

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick and guitar at Bluesfest 2013

Genevieve Chadwick
Her big voice fills the space in the big tent.

Portrait: Red-haired Lil

Lil’ Fi
“Celebrating Curves”

Young woman sitting on the gravel against a fence barricade, Bluesfest 2013

Time Out
Bluesfest is a pretty chilled out affair.

Portrait: Chris Eaton of Round Mountain Girls singing and clapping, Bluesfest 2013

Chris Eaton
Round Mountain Girls

A wild fiddler: Rabbit Robinson, Round Mountain GIrls

Like a fiddler possessed ~

Rabbit Robinson fiddling at Bluesfest 2013

Rabbit Robinson on stage.

Performers on stage: Chris Broker, Chris Eaton and Rabbit Robinson

Chris Broker, Chris Eaton and Rabbit Robinson of Round Mountain Girls
We were as taken by this band as they were by “Round Mountain”, which possesses them.

Mojo Tent, Bluesfest 2013, packed out the sides with people.

No Room to Move!
Mojo Tent is already packed out the sides with people.

After our experience of not-really-seeing Santana on Friday, on Saturday we tried to stake a spot for another icon of my adolescence: Robert Plant, the inimitable voice of Led Zeppelin, four hours ahead of time. Clearly 99,998 or so people had had that idea before us, and we had to settle for parking chairs in the wings outside the huge, already packed, tent.

Light fell, bands played on and the stars came out; I was thankful that the rains held off…  Then Plant’s voice, supported and enriched by the off-beat rhythms of the Sensational Space Shifters, wove its old magic and still thrilled me to the core.

Dark stage: red light on Robert Plant singing

Robert Plant
A long way away ~ but his voice reaches, regardless

Portrait: Tony Joe White on guitar, drummer behind

“The Swamp”
Tony Joe White has lost none of his story-telling appeal since I last saw him in 1999.

On stage, singer Karise Eden and band, Bluesfest 2013

Karise Eden
Winner of Australia’s first season of The Voice, 2012, Karise packs a Janis Joplin punch.

Festival scene: people in raincoats and boots, in water and mud. Byron Bluesfest 2013

Rain
A little rain can’t dampen festival-goers spirits.

A woman

Beautiful Tattoos
The festival audience included young and old, and provides for people-watching enjoyment.

Screenshot: Two headshots of Xavier Rudd on didgeridoos and guitar

A New Take on the One-Man Band
Billed as an Australian “musician, activist, and surfer”, multi-instrumentalist Xavier Rudd on didgeridoos, percussion and guitar.

Silhouetted technicians at a soundstage in low light.

Sound Stage
The oft-forgotten people behind the scenes; for the most part, they did an excellent job.

Cat Empire on stage at Bluesfest 2013, Harry James Angus on trumpet

Cat Empire
Harry James Angus on trumpet.

A distant stage, dark blue with yellow spot-lights; Felix Riebl singing. Bluesfest, 2013

The Cat’s Eye under Lights
Felix Riebl singing up a storm.

I have a soft spot for Cat Empire, as I first saw them in a pub in Darwin on a “night out” with my son. But, frightened by the prospects of another hour and a half standing still in the car park, as we had done the night before, we didn’t stay through to the end of their set.

I guess its a sign that I’m getting rather old for the challenges of festival-going: paying to be wet and tired and muddy, watching on the big screens something I wouldn’t watch on TV at home.

Text: Keep smilingWould I do it again?

Hell yes! We have our tickets for next year already.

Music is good for the soul.

Peace, love and mung beans! 🙂

Pictures: 29-31March2013

Yellow "Walking Man" on a black signpost, on Mt Brandon, overlooking Smerwick Harbour, Ireland.

Follow the Walking Man
On Mt Brandon, looking back over the magnificent Smerwick Harbour, Ireland.

If you are a regular visitor to this site, you’ll know that I love walking.

The thing is: some days I enjoy it more in retrospect than in real time!

By Day 8 of our walk around the Dingle Peninsula, that was certainly the case. I was tired.

We’d lost the trail on a bog-covered mountain the day before, and doses of anti-inflammatory drugs overnight had not met the challenge of ageing knees and hip joints. Tired and sore.

Then there was the intermittent rain: just enough so that we had to pull the raincoats out of bags at least once a day; just enough to ensure it was always slippery under foot. Tired and sore and wet.

According to our notes, we had another mountain to cross…

Day 8: Ballydavid to Cloghane

This is one of the most remote sections of the Dingle Way; offering you a combination of history and breathtaking scenery. 
The trail follows a green road that crosses the shoulder of one of Ireland’s highest mountains “Mount Brandon” standing at 952Mtrs. Passes a standing stone that dates back over 3.500 years; which still displays the symbols of Ogham Writing. Crosses over an area of blanket bog where turf is still harvested in the traditional ways of our forefathers.
 Finishing in the quiet village of Cloghane; that lies in the shadow of Mount Brandon.

Distance: 19 km/13 miles, Ascent: 670 m/2010 ft

A mix of Flowers growing on a stone border.

Flower Border
Flowers in the village send us off on our way…

Cow in the Countryside

Cow in the Countryside
We had a fair walk along country roads before heading off cross-country.

Quiet Waters flanked by green hills, Ballydavid, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

Still Waters
Quiet waters and a dotting of farms under lowering skies.

Currach or Naomhóg

Currach or Naomhóg
The Blasket islanders developed a distinctive regional type of currach (or naomhóg) which they used for transport and fishing.

Lanscape: Small Creek bounded by rocks, green hills in the background.

Creek Waters

Landscape: sheep

Barbed Wire
Sheep’s wool, stone fence and a green mountain; it doesn’t get more Irish than that.

Wooly Irish Sheep looking from behind a wire fence.

Irish Sheep
The sheep are curious about out our progress.

Close-up: yellow honeysuckle flower against green leaves.

Wild Honeysuckle
Like the Irish spirit, the delicate honeysuckle (Woodbine: Lonicera periclymenum) is flexible, resilient, and deceptively strong.

Landscape: View over Ballydavid Head and the Three Sisters from Mount Brandon, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland.

From Mount Brandon
In spite of low cloud, we still have magnificent views back over Ballydavid Head and the Three Sisters.

Landscape: Ogham Stone with Brandon Bay in the background, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland.

Ogham Stone
This Ogham, dating back to the 4th Century, apparently says: “Ronan, the priest son of Comgan”.

We were really excited to reach the Ogham Stone in the saddle between Masatiompan and Mount Brandon: according too our trip notes, there were a number of Ogham stones along our walk, but so far we had not succeeded in seeing any of them. We had looked – but the notes were often a bit vague, so we weren’t sure if we were looking in the wrong place or for the wrong thing. We were beginning to wonder if the stones had all been carried away by archaeologists or leprechauns. This was our first!

Reaching the stone also meant we had reached the high point of our day, and the rest should be down hill. Easy, right?

Wrong! More of a water-runoff-gully than a path, the way down the mountain was steep, mired in mud and water, and frequently slippery. Burdened as we were with day-packs and camera gear, we picked our way down as carefully as we could, grateful for our trusty walking sticks. It took us more than an hour to reach the peat road part way down the hill. By this time, I was ready for the day to be over, but we still had at least eight kilometres to go… I took some comfort in the fact that three young walkers we had passed along the way were still well behind us, so it wasn’t just age that had slowed us down: it truly was a wicked stretch of ground!

View over the flank of Mount Brandon towards Brandon Point.

Brandon Point
View over the flank of Masatiompan towards Brandon Point.

Landscape: Yellow arrows pointing down a green hill, Mount Brandon, Dingle Peninsula.

This Way Down
Steeper than it looks, muddy and wet; we were pleased we had our walking sticks.

A small cairn of rocks on a large rock on a green slope, Mount Brandon, Dingle Peninsula.

A Cairn along the Way
Previous walkers have marked their passing along the “trail”.

Composite granite stones standing at the side of a narrow rocky trail over green mountains, Mount Brandon, Ireland

Stones along the Path
At this point, the trail became a little drier and more manageable. There’s a walking man ahead!

Cuts in blanket peat on a hillside: blocks and bags of turf either side of the cutting, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

Peat Gathering
Blanket peat covers most of the Dingle Peninsula. Although it is considered a non-renewable and not-particularly efficient energy source, it is harvested by locals for burning as fuel and for sale.

Stony country Road leading Down to Brandon Bay, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

Teer Bog Road
A peat-cutter’s road leads down towards Brandon Bay.

Fluffy white lamb with pink ears against very green grass. Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

Another Lamb…

Landscape: White cottages on the edge of Brandon Bay, Ireland

Brandon Bay
Cottages come into view; dinner can’t be too far away!

Three tan-coloured cows in a green field, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland

More Cows…

Landscape: Brandon Bay under a cloudy gray sky.

Brandon Bay
Finally! We are back at sea-level, as the clouds lower over the bay.

Small fishing boats tied to Brandon Pier, Dingle Peninsula.

Fishing Boats
Small craft are tied up at Brandon Pier.

Landscape: Late afternoon light and rain clouds over the beach at Brandon Bay.

Last Light
Rain clouds hover over the beach at Brandon Bay as we make our way to our lodgings near Cloghane.

text: slainte - good healthAs we sat in the pub in Brandon over a glass of wine and a fabulous hot meal, the wet, the pain, and the tired were forgotten – almost. It was a beautiful walk and I’d do it again…

Well, maybe on a dry day.

Sláinte!

Pictures: 26June2012