Looking for Whales The first orcas (killer whales) we see are topiary, in downtown Victoria.
There is something special about whales.
Granted, except for trips to the Vancouver Aquarium many, many, years ago, I’ve only ever seen bits of whales – a dorsal or a tail or a flipper – as most of their huge bodies stay submerged. I’m still waiting to see a whale breach; I’ve seen some magnificent photos, but when I’m on the water, these giant sea mammals seem to be feeling less playful.
Still, my husband and I love being on the water, and knowing that there might be whales around makes it an extra special treat.
We were extremely lucky last year: we participated in whale-watching tours twice. Once was last October, during the antipodean spring, when humpbacks make their annual migration south – past my home in Eden, NSW – to their summer feeding grounds in Antarctica(Watching Water 2).
The other time was on the opposite side of the ocean, in Canada’s Pacific Northwest, where my brother treated us to a morning of whale watching on the Prince of Whales Ocean Magic II, out of Victoria BC.
It might have been high summer, but weather on Vancouver Island waters can be chancy, cold and wet, so we rugged up warmly before setting out in search of whales.
Sailboats on Victoria Harbour ~ ~ with the dome of the British Columbia Legislature Building in the background.
Zodiak A group of whale watchers in their Mustang Survival flotation suits return from their tour. Our sixty-two foot cabin cruiser was much more sheltered!
Safety Demonstration Our guide talks us through the niceties and necessities.
Floating Homes Prime real estate on Victoria Harbour.
Boat in Blue The water, the sky, the mountains around us – everything is blue.
Race Rocks As we approach the eastern entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca in the Salish Sea, the lighthouse at Race Rocks Marine Protected Area comes into view.
Harbour Seals It is hard to ignore the appeal of those big eyes!
Bald Eagle
Sea Lion The male sea lions, especially, can be heard and smelled long before they can be seen clearly.
Watching Water The radio says whales have been sighted! We pull way from Race Rocks, and watch the water for signs of movement.
Prince of Whales Zodiac The zodiak is also on the hunt for cetaceans.
Orcas’ Tails Sure enough! We soon sight the backs of two killer whales – part of a small pod of transient orcas.
Orcas on the Hunt Transients, one of at least three distinct species of killer whales, travel in small, loosely organised pods. They are deadly hunters and eat other mammals.
Killers Circling like sharks, the pod have found a seal or some other animal. The blood is faintly visible on the water.
Alpine Cruiser One of the other whale-watching boats is well placed to witness the struggle.
Humpback Dorsal For the longest time, it looked like a lump of log on the water – but no, it is a humpback whale. Unfortunately she’s feeling no more playful than the killers ~
Humpback Tail ~ and we have to make do with a half-hearted tail wave before she sounds.
Coming into Port Too soon it is time to return to the harbour…
Victoria … of Vancouver Island’s garden city.
Ocean Magic Our boat pulls back into her berth.
Victoria Harbour Authority The killer whale is an integral part of First Nations’ culture, and is regularly represented in local art.
Boats on the Harbour The skies are considerably bluer than when we set out in the morning!
Harbour Seal The beautiful weather brings people out to the waterfront to watch the harbour seals.
Harbour Seal One seal knows that where there are humans, there is likely to be an easy feed –
Feeding the Seal … and sure enough, people feed it with fish bought especially for that purpose.
One day, I’ll get that elusive photograph of a whale breaching…
But in the mean time, I’m happy just to be on and around the water.
Yellow Light Yellow chrysanthemums, ready for sale as offerings to Buddhist temples and home shrines, reflect their colour back on their vendor.
Our private tour bus pulled over on a nondescript patch of road, somewhere between Mandalay and Pyin Oo Lwin. It seemed a quiet spot, with broken-down-looking vehicles parked at the side, and bamboo shop-fronts sitting back from the earthen verge.
Old Jeep Parked on the side of the “highway”, an old jeep looks almost abandoned.
But, behind the huts and trees that lined the highway was another road, where Pyin Oo Lwin’s busy mobile morning flower market was taking place.
Because of its altitude (1070 meters – 3510 feet) and temperate climate, Pyin Oo Lwin was established as a hill station and summer capital during British colonial rule. The weather, perfect for growing fruit, vegetables and especially flowers, means that the popular resort town is sometimes called Pan Myo Daw, “The City of Flowers“.
Flower Seller Huge bundles of neatly tied …
Beetlenut Bearer … and carefully balanced chrysanthemums …
Flower Street … are transported by foot…
Market Chat … and …
Yellow Chrysanthemums … by motorcycle.
Flowers are a central part of burmese life. Everyday, freshly cut flowers are offered to the Buddha at household and business shrines and in temples and pagodas.
These flowers are grown in the cooler hills and transported to the markets daily by truck and by motorcycle. At the morning flower markets, chrysanthemums, asters, gypsophila (baby’s breath), and weeping goldsmith flowers (padeign gno in Burmese), in purple, pink, white, cream and yellow are on sale. Yellow flowers, the colour of gold, are particularly auspicious as offerings.
Yellow Gold is the colour of auspicious offerings.
Flower Delivery Light and dark contrast sharply – even this early in the day –
Woman in the Midst – as the crowd buys, sells and trades the various blooms.
It is early morning, but already the light angles in sharply, creating dapples and strong shadows as the trucks, buses and bikes, laden with bundled blooms, continue into town.
Local Bus Locals are piled into old buses which trundle through the street …
Transporting Flowers … as the flowers keep coming …
Street Scene … and going.
Hands at Work Even while they chat and laugh, people in the market are busy at work.
Shy Smile
Pink Aster
A Woman and her Bouquet
Bundling Having finalised her purchases, a woman ties up her blooms ready for the ride home.
While I was fact-checking for this blog, I came across a delightful post from a gardening enthusiast who visited the same markets two months after we did; The Frustrated Gardener is well worth a look.
My group and I, however, had to leave. We were heading off to visit some of Pyin Oo Lwin’s colonial splendours.
But, the next day as I wandered around Mandalay, I was very aware of the fresh flowers at the shrines and local temples.
Chrysanthemums in the Temple
Yellow Asters at the Workplace
It made me think about the love and work that goes into these cheerful and environmentally-friendly offerings.
Harp and Violin Women in period costume play traditional tunes in the Great Hall of Bunratty Castle.
(Double click for: The Two William Davies: The Rolling Waves, with Ciara O’Sullivan on harp)
You can’t visit Ireland without partaking of at least one Medieval Castle Banquet – or so the travel books and agents would have you believe!
I’m not a huge fan of theme parks, but every so often it is nice to relax and have your history and culture spoon-fed in tourist-friendly bites. So, when my contact in Ireland, with whom I was organising our ten-day Dingle Way walking trip, strongly recommended that we book the medieval dinner at Bunratty Castle as part of our stay in Shannon, I took his suggestion seriously enough to have a look, and bought tickets on line before we left home.
I’m glad we did!
The price of dinner includes entry to Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, a “living reconstruction of Ireland over a century ago” set on 26 acres, so we made sure to arrive early enough to have a look around the park and castle beforehand.
Loop Head House This cottage was originally the home of a farming and fishing family – the thatched roof was roped down to protect against the Atlantic gales.
Master Bedroom Inside is dark, with wooden floors, whitewashed walls – and the all-important cross in the window.
Put the Kettle on! There is no running water in the cottages, but there is always a kettle on the fire, ready to make tea.
Bunratty Castle We get our first glimpse of the castle, built in 1425, through the wet trees. It is, of course, a rainy afternoon; we did not have a day in Ireland without rain.
Latch the Door!
Caisleán Bhun Raithe The plaque outlining the history of the “Castle at the Mouth of the Ratty” is in Gaelic.
Earl’s Bedroom Refurbishing the castle was a labour of love for Lord and Lady Gort, who bought the ruins in 1953. Together with John Hunt, they sourced tapestries, furnishings and artworks to re-create the atmosphere of the castle’s earlier years. For example, in this room the escritoire (writing desk) is an unusual oak piece from the 15th century, and the carved bed posts are 16th century. The castle furnishings are now maintained by the Gort Furniture Trust.
Earl’s Private Chapel Most of the religious artworks here are from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Fly the Flag!
Stairwell Window
Public Chapel
Castle Towers Outside again, we look back at the castle, with it’s three large central floors and six floors in each tower, before continuing our tour of the park.
Mountain Farmhouse In the dining-room of a simple cottage, the table is set for tea.
Rooster Farm animals wander around the village streets.
The Doctors House A typical 19th Century urban Irish house, where a doctor once lived and worked.
J J Cory’s Pub A typical village pub was operated out of a family kitchen.
Mill stone The folk park has two working mills.
Wooden Water Wheel
The Earl’s Butler We are welcomed back to the castle in time for dinner. We had reserved the early seating; the banquets are so popular in high season, that they run twice a night!
Harp and Violin In the Great Hall, we are treated to mead and traditional music. The acoustics in the large room are improved by the French, Belgian and Flemish tapestries hung on the walls amongst the other artworks.
Butler and Lady Once we move down to the Main Guard Hall, we are given the safety drill and regaled with stories.
Bunratty Singers As we eat our dinner, seated at banked tables, we are treated to traditional songs. I was relieved that – contrary to some medieval feasts I have heard of – we were given utensils and serviettes! It was all very civilised – although one ‘traitorous’ guest was thrown into the dungeon for a spell.
Irish Singers
To listen to a delightful, live rendition of “Lord of the Dance” by the Bunratty Castle Singers, press play:
[audio:https://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/wp-content/uploads//2013/10/12-Lord-Of-The-Dance.mp3|titles=Lord of the Dance|autostart=no]
Minstrel
Piper A kilted piper plays us out when our time in the castle is finished.
Even without the dinner, the castle and folk park is worth a visit.
Ferris Wheel Floriade, Canberra’s spring-flower festival, has taken on a carnival atmosphere in recent years.
It is spring in Australia; has been, officially, since the first of September – even though the mercury might disagree.
I’ve been asked, from time to time, what the weather is like “Down Under” – I guess by people who haven’t looked at a map or globe recently. After all, the great southern land reaches well into the Tropic of Capricorn and extends chillingly close to Antarctica. So climate zones vary greatly, with the vast, dry centre having seasonal extremes of heat and cold; the tropical north being hot and humid most of the year; and the coastal regions, where most people live, being somewhat more temperate. Most of the country, of course, is also subject to regular fires, droughts and floods.
Canberra, Australia’s capital, is in a temperate zone, and unlike Sydney, where I lived for many years, has four distinct seasons that more closely resemble those I remember from my youth. Canberra turns on the colours in both spring and autumn.
A Sea of Red Tulips
A Yellow Tulip
Purple Tulips
Every year for the last twenty-six, Canberra has celebrated spring with Floriade, billed as the largest floral festival in the Southern Hemisphere. I’ve been to Floriade in the past – the occasion I remember best was the year when classical music played from the flower beds and Chihuly glass installations graced the ponds.
That was many years ago, so we decided to make the trip last weekend and see what the festival had to offer. Originally, Floriade was essentially a spring flower garden display, with beds of exotic bulbs and annuals planted alongside Lake Burley Griffin in Commonwealth Park.
That sure has changed! It is now a full “lifestyle” event with workshops, demonstrations, entertainment, food, and shopping. For the last six years, there has even been a “NightFest”, turning the flower gardens into a ticketed after-dark lighting and performance space.
Night Lights The tulips and the ferris wheel are a bit surreal under the changing lights of NightFest.
White Tulip The flowerbeds are eerie at night.
A Face in the Green Like fireflies or fairies, laser lights danced amongst the trees.
Green Laser Lights
Call Home?
Drumassault and the Fireflies To the sound of drums, performers light their batons.
Playing with Fire One of the Fireflies swings her poi.
Juggling Fire
We returned the next morning to join the crowds admiring and photographing the more-than-one-million blooms in the various flower beds designed to pay tribute to Canberra’s centenary.
Australian National Botanic Gardens Beds
Purple Tulips and Pink Bellis
Stilt-Walking Flowers
Red Tulips
Giant Metal Flowers Amongst the rhododendrons, we came across suspended flowers: the source of the reflected laser light during NightFest.
Orange and Yellow The colours of money adorn the Royal Australian Mint flower beds.
Reflective Kangaroo The kangaroo from the Australian dollar coin rises up out of the Royal Australian Mint garden.
Yellow Poppies also featured.
Family Time Canberra families are out, enjoying the sun and taking part in the gnome painting ~
Garden Gnomes ~ because it is not a garden without a garden gnome!
Natural Beauty A young burmese postcard seller captured me with her simple beauty and natural smile.
“I love the Burman with the blind favouritism born of first impression. When I die I will be a Burman … and I will always walk about with a pretty almond-coloured girl who shall laugh and jest too, as a young maiden ought. She shall not pull a sari over her head when a man looks at her and glare suggestively from behind it, nor shall she tramp behind me when I walk: for these are the customs of India. She shall look all the world between the eyes, in honesty and good fellowship, and I will teach her not to defile her pretty mouth with chopped tobacco in a cabbage leaf, but to inhale good cigarettes of Egypt’s best brand.”
– Rudyard Kipling, 1890
Some things in Myanmar have changed little since Kipling’s time.
The Ayeyarwaddy (Irrawaddy or Ayeyarwady) River, the country’slargest and most important waterway, remains a major transport artery. Numerous wooden boats still ply their trade up and down the “Road to Mandalay” – although the paddle steamers of Kipling’s day have mostly been replaced by noisy diesel and gas motors.
Last September, with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide Mr MM, I travelled the 11 kilometres up the Ayeyarwaddy River from Mandalay to Mingun, a small town in Sagaing.
There was much that Kipling would have found familiar.
Ships in the Heat Even on the wide Irrawaddy River, the heat shimmers.
Boatman Getting our boat away from the shore takes human muscle.
Helmsman Our boat chugs 45 minutes up river.
Life on the River Fishing for dinner or collecting grasses for building still means getting pretty wet!
The Mingun Pahtodawgyi Soon, the Mingun Temple, a monumental stupa started by King Bodawpaya in 1790 and never finished, comes into view.
The Prow Fresh greenery on the bow of our boat protects us from malevolent or unhappy nats or spirits.
On the Mingun Shore Once we are “docked” on the west bank of the river, vendors in thanakha powder come to greet us.
Street Scene Streets in Mingun are quiet – travelled by foot or the odd motorcycle.
Bullock Taxi Alternately, you can hire a bullock cart and driver.
The most famous attraction in Mingun is the beautifulHsinbyume or Myatheindan Pagoda – built in 1816 and dedicated to the memory of Princess Hsinbyume (Lady of the White Elephant) who died in childbirth – to which I devoted a post to recently. As impressive as Hsinbyume Pagoda is, it is the people on the walk leading to and from it which are the real burmese treasures.
Old Bullock “Taxi” Driver
Cigar and Candle Seller
Selling Silks
Selling Souvenirs
White Elephants Souvenirs for sale include marionettes – some modelled on elephants in honour of Princess Hsinbyume.
Portrait of a Postcard Seller This beautiful young woman with her open smile could have been the subject of Kipling’s praises.
You can’t visit Mingun without a look at the Mingun Bell. Weighing in at 90 tons, and built between 1808 and 1810 by the same King Bodawpaya who started the giant stupa, it is one of the largest functioning bells in the world.
Entering the Temple
Zayat or Shelter The elegant building housing the bell sat under a dramatic sky.
A Smile in the Sky A circumzenithal (or Bravais’) arc is formed by the refraction of sunlight through ice crystals high up in cirrus clouds. I’ve only ever seen one other.
The Mingun Bell
Monk Collecting for Local Temples
Back to the Boats
“This is Burma and it is unlike any land you know about.”
– Rudyard Kipling, Letters from the East (1898)
It is a beautiful place, with beautiful people… I hope it stays that way!
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
One day, I’ll get that elusive photograph of a whale breaching…
It made me think about the love and work that goes into these cheerful and environmentally-friendly offerings.
Yes one day we will see A breach
Great photos. Next time we’ll order a breaching whale!
😀