 Avenue Jean Jaures
Nîmes gets its name from Nemausus, a Celtic god who was worshiped at the local spring. Les Quais de la Fontaine, the embankments of the spring, were laid out in the 1700s. It’s autumn in Australia at the moment, which makes me think of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. Defies logic, I know, but there is something about the freshness of the air this change-of-season that has me humming: “I love Paris in the springtime…” and thinking of my last time in France, back in the spring of 2011, which is when we stopped for a day in Nîmes.
I’d been to Nîmes before: while I was a University student in Western Canada, I spent a summer working for friends who had bought an Auberge (country inn) in Gard, just outside this ancient southern city. I remembered it for it’s well-preserved Roman ruins, it’s cicadas, and its dry, shimmering heat.
I also remember it’s preoccupation with bulls.
 Toro Miura qui Possede un Coeur ~ Miura Bull who Has a Heart
Lucien Blanc That summer in Gard was the first (and only) time-and-place I attended a bull fight. Not the ‘glamourous’ Spanish fights with fancy toreadors in tight black pants, sparkly gold boleros, and red capes; no – more a ‘rodeo’ variety in a make-shift pen, with bull-fighters with pink and yellow capes that reminded me of cheap raincoats.
 “Torro Piscine”
Bull Ring ~ Scanned photographs from a rustic bullfight near Nîmes, south of France, 1979. It was a very long time ago, and I was keen to see if the city could live up to my distant memories of it. We were on our way to the start of our second walk in the French Pyrenees, travelling south from the Auvergne, so Nîmes was the perfect place to stop over. I booked a room close to the train station, and we set out with a city map, for a walk.
 Le Palais de Justice
Inspired by La Maison Carrée, the Nimes Law Courts were built between 1836-1846 by architect Gaston Bourdon. Life in the Palazzo Les Arènes de Nîmes
Nîmes’ elliptical amphitheatre, built around 70 AD, is the best-preserved Roman arena in France. Port de France
Locals go about their business through one of the two remaining gates from the original Augustine ramparts. Modern Urban
Fresh paint and posters set off the old walls in the narrow streets. L’Eglise St Paul
Decorated in Roman provençal style, St Paul’s Church was inaugurated in 1849. Following periods of change, Nîmes had become the major metropolis of Bas-Languedoc by the 19th Century. La Maison Carrée
Built of local limestone by architects from Rome around 20 BCE, The Square House was designed by Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, who was responsible for the Pantheon in Rome. La Maison Carrée
The temple was originally dedicated to Gaius and Lucius, adopted sons of Augustus. It is one of the most beautiful and best preserved temples in the former Roman Empire. Emperor Antonin (86 – 161)
Nîmes was part of the Roman empire from 118 BCE, and made a “colony” by Augustus in 27 BCE. Avenue Jean Jaures
Leading into the Jardins de la Fontaine. Jardins de la Fontaine ~ The Gardens of the Fountain
Built in the middle of the 18th century, the gardens effectively protect two major Roman ruins. Fresh Green
The trees in the garden are wearing their spring finery. The gardens are home to ancient statues … … and living art. Temple de Diane
My favourite ruin, possibly because it is less well-preserved, is the Temple of Diana. Some say it was built as a sacred fountain dedicated to Nemausus during the time of Augustus. Others say it was built in the 2nd century as a library. Inside the Temple Ancient Pillars Temple of Diane
Fragments of delicately carved stonework remain. Spring Blooms
Trees and bushes with these purple pea-like flowers were everywhere in the south. La Tour Magne
It’s a short walk up the hill from the gardens to the La Tour Magne. La Tour Magne ~ The Great Tower
Once part of the old ramparts. The top storey has disappeared, but the tower still rises to a height of about 32m. Nîmes
A climb up the insides of La Tour Magne afford a great view over the city. The old olive tree and other vegetation at the base of the tower give an indication of the dry heat I remember so vividly from my earlier visit. Even though it was still spring, the day was hot and clear. Les Arènes de Nîmes
During the Middle Ages, the arena was used as a fortress – a refuge for the population in case of danger. It was later filled with private houses, until the nineteenth century. Today, the amphitheatre is used for bullfights, music concerts. and other events. Les Arènes de Nimes
Inside the corridors of the arena, it is easy to imagine the ancient battles. The lion’s cages, and a chapel for the gladiators are all here. Modern “Bull Fight”
We were lucky enough to be visiting during one of the two annual bull festivals: “La Primavera des Aficionados” (Spring of the Fans). Julie Donzala demonstrates her skills. Hot Pink
There are the capes of my memory! Fortunately, the only “bulls” we saw were papier-mâché and wood on wheels. Boy Toreadors
Young lads waiting for their turn with the “bulls”. This horse is being dressed for it’s role as a picador in a fight with real bulls. Cavalier
One of la cavalerie de Philippe Heyral. The Arena
It’s a quiet afternoon in the stands.  Nîmes was still hot. It was still preoccupied with bulls. And the Roman ruins were still fabulous.
I didn’t hear any cicadas, but it was only April…
It was good to be back.
Pictures: 09April2011
Posted in Architecture,France,HistoryTags: animals,architecture,blog,culture,France,Nîmes,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Karise Eden
Rocking the Blues Got your gumboots? Got a raincoat, plenty of water, a folding chair and/or an inexhaustible supply of energy? The Byron Bay Blues and Root Festival is the place to be on an Easter (Autumn) weekend in Australia.
There is nothing like music to lift your spirits. Add good company and wholesome food, and you have an unbeatable festival weekend. Of course, into each festival, some rain must fall; the event would not be complete without mud.
Started as the East Coast Blues Festival at the Byron Bay Arts Factory in 1990 with a modest international and local lineup, Bluesfest has evolved into a major five-day event. We only attended three of the five days: we weren’t sure that our ageing ears and bones would hold up to any more!
We decided to ease in with something familiar, Hat Fitz and Cara whom we last saw perform at the Thredbo Blues Festival in 2012. In spite of Cara still wearing an eye-patch following a car accident last December, their powerhouse performance (and between-song-patter) was in no way diminished.
Hat Fitz
Rough, gravel tones belting out a tune. Hat Fitz and Cara Robinson
A musical duo with powerhouse vocals. Taj Mahal
As good as ever… Ben Harper
Bridging the gap between the old and the young The Byron Bluesfest attracts a wonderful range of international performers across a breadth of styles. The last time I attended, back in 1999, I sought out Taj Mahal, Jimmy Webb, Tony Joe White, and other sounds of my adolescence, but I also let my teenaged children introduce me to Ben Harper, Keb’ Mo’ and Angelique Kidjo. What a great way of rediscovering youth, reliving all the great moments since, and getting glimpses into the future of music.
Shuggie Otis
A musical family delivers Robert Cray
Cheeky and smooth at the same time. Over 100,000 people attended this year – not all at the same time, mind you. On Friday, however, as I tried to catch sight of Carlos Santana, whose music was part of the very fabric of my teens. and who, more recently, danced me through my wedding, it felt like they were all in the tent with me – pushing four directions at once.
Smartphone
Sometimes the best view of the stage is through someone else’s smart phone. 🙁 Thank Heavens for the Big Screens!
Squashed into an aisle behind the sound stage, I could barely see over the heads in front… In spite of the obstacles, nothing could diminish Santana’s performance: one hour and a half of unadulterated joy and energy! Somehow, being there, even when you can barely see, is better than a clearer view at home on a television. Confined as we were, bodies squashed together, we danced all the way through the performance, and back out of the tent at the end.
Traditional Blues and Southern Roots
Pat Wilder and the Music Maker Blues Revue I love the mix of old, traditional performers (like the artists supported by the Music Maker Blues Revue) and local talent, like the young Genevieve Chadwick, who we first saw at Thredbo Blues 2013, and Lil’ Fi, who has been a part of the local arts seen for a while. And although none of them are female, we were as captivated by Round Mountain Girls as they were by the mountain that gives them their name. It’s these surprises you find, sometimes while looking for something else, that make festivals such a treat.
Genevieve Chadwick
Her big voice fills the space in the big tent. Lil’ Fi
“Celebrating Curves” Time Out
Bluesfest is a pretty chilled out affair. Chris Eaton
Round Mountain Girls Like a fiddler possessed ~ Rabbit Robinson on stage. Chris Broker, Chris Eaton and Rabbit Robinson of Round Mountain Girls
We were as taken by this band as they were by “Round Mountain”, which possesses them. No Room to Move!
Mojo Tent is already packed out the sides with people. After our experience of not-really-seeing Santana on Friday, on Saturday we tried to stake a spot for another icon of my adolescence: Robert Plant, the inimitable voice of Led Zeppelin, four hours ahead of time. Clearly 99,998 or so people had had that idea before us, and we had to settle for parking chairs in the wings outside the huge, already packed, tent.
Light fell, bands played on and the stars came out; I was thankful that the rains held off… Then Plant’s voice, supported and enriched by the off-beat rhythms of the Sensational Space Shifters, wove its old magic and still thrilled me to the core.
Robert Plant
A long way away ~ but his voice reaches, regardless “The Swamp”
Tony Joe White has lost none of his story-telling appeal since I last saw him in 1999. Karise Eden
Winner of Australia’s first season of The Voice, 2012, Karise packs a Janis Joplin punch. Rain
A little rain can’t dampen festival-goers spirits. Beautiful Tattoos
The festival audience included young and old, and provides for people-watching enjoyment. A New Take on the One-Man Band
Billed as an Australian “musician, activist, and surfer”, multi-instrumentalist Xavier Rudd on didgeridoos, percussion and guitar. Sound Stage
The oft-forgotten people behind the scenes; for the most part, they did an excellent job. Cat Empire
Harry James Angus on trumpet. The Cat’s Eye under Lights
Felix Riebl singing up a storm. I have a soft spot for Cat Empire, as I first saw them in a pub in Darwin on a “night out” with my son. But, frightened by the prospects of another hour and a half standing still in the car park, as we had done the night before, we didn’t stay through to the end of their set.
I guess its a sign that I’m getting rather old for the challenges of festival-going: paying to be wet and tired and muddy, watching on the big screens something I wouldn’t watch on TV at home.
 Would I do it again?
Hell yes! We have our tickets for next year already.
Music is good for the soul.
Peace, love and mung beans! 🙂
Pictures: 29-31March2013
Posted in Australia,Music,PortraitsTags: 2013,Australia,australian,Byron Bay Bluesfest,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,music,musicians,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Follow the Walking Man
On Mt Brandon, looking back over the magnificent Smerwick Harbour, Ireland. If you are a regular visitor to this site, you’ll know that I love walking.
The thing is: some days I enjoy it more in retrospect than in real time!
By Day 8 of our walk around the Dingle Peninsula, that was certainly the case. I was tired.
We’d lost the trail on a bog-covered mountain the day before, and doses of anti-inflammatory drugs overnight had not met the challenge of ageing knees and hip joints. Tired and sore.
Then there was the intermittent rain: just enough so that we had to pull the raincoats out of bags at least once a day; just enough to ensure it was always slippery under foot. Tired and sore and wet.
According to our notes, we had another mountain to cross…
Day 8: Ballydavid to Cloghane
This is one of the most remote sections of the Dingle Way; offering you a combination of history and breathtaking scenery.
The trail follows a green road that crosses the shoulder of one of Ireland’s highest mountains “Mount Brandon” standing at 952Mtrs. Passes a standing stone that dates back over 3.500 years; which still displays the symbols of Ogham Writing. Crosses over an area of blanket bog where turf is still harvested in the traditional ways of our forefathers.
Finishing in the quiet village of Cloghane; that lies in the shadow of Mount Brandon.
Distance: 19 km/13 miles, Ascent: 670 m/2010 ft
Flower Border
Flowers in the village send us off on our way… Cow in the Countryside
We had a fair walk along country roads before heading off cross-country. Still Waters
Quiet waters and a dotting of farms under lowering skies. Currach or Naomhóg
The Blasket islanders developed a distinctive regional type of currach (or naomhóg) which they used for transport and fishing. Creek Waters Barbed Wire
Sheep’s wool, stone fence and a green mountain; it doesn’t get more Irish than that. Irish Sheep
The sheep are curious about out our progress. Wild Honeysuckle
Like the Irish spirit, the delicate honeysuckle (Woodbine: Lonicera periclymenum) is flexible, resilient, and deceptively strong. From Mount Brandon
In spite of low cloud, we still have magnificent views back over Ballydavid Head and the Three Sisters. Ogham Stone
This Ogham, dating back to the 4th Century, apparently says: “Ronan, the priest son of Comgan”. We were really excited to reach the Ogham Stone in the saddle between Masatiompan and Mount Brandon: according too our trip notes, there were a number of Ogham stones along our walk, but so far we had not succeeded in seeing any of them. We had looked – but the notes were often a bit vague, so we weren’t sure if we were looking in the wrong place or for the wrong thing. We were beginning to wonder if the stones had all been carried away by archaeologists or leprechauns. This was our first!
Reaching the stone also meant we had reached the high point of our day, and the rest should be down hill. Easy, right?
Wrong! More of a water-runoff-gully than a path, the way down the mountain was steep, mired in mud and water, and frequently slippery. Burdened as we were with day-packs and camera gear, we picked our way down as carefully as we could, grateful for our trusty walking sticks. It took us more than an hour to reach the peat road part way down the hill. By this time, I was ready for the day to be over, but we still had at least eight kilometres to go… I took some comfort in the fact that three young walkers we had passed along the way were still well behind us, so it wasn’t just age that had slowed us down: it truly was a wicked stretch of ground!
Brandon Point
View over the flank of Masatiompan towards Brandon Point. This Way Down
Steeper than it looks, muddy and wet; we were pleased we had our walking sticks. A Cairn along the Way
Previous walkers have marked their passing along the “trail”. Stones along the Path
At this point, the trail became a little drier and more manageable. There’s a walking man ahead! Peat Gathering
Blanket peat covers most of the Dingle Peninsula. Although it is considered a non-renewable and not-particularly efficient energy source, it is harvested by locals for burning as fuel and for sale. Teer Bog Road
A peat-cutter’s road leads down towards Brandon Bay. Another Lamb… Brandon Bay
Cottages come into view; dinner can’t be too far away! More Cows… Brandon Bay
Finally! We are back at sea-level, as the clouds lower over the bay. Fishing Boats
Small craft are tied up at Brandon Pier. Last Light
Rain clouds hover over the beach at Brandon Bay as we make our way to our lodgings near Cloghane. As we sat in the pub in Brandon over a glass of wine and a fabulous hot meal, the wet, the pain, and the tired were forgotten – almost. It was a beautiful walk and I’d do it again…
Well, maybe on a dry day.
Sláinte!
Pictures: 26June2012
Posted in Ireland,Landscapes,Nature,TravelTags: blog,boats,Dingle Peninsula,Ireland,nature,Photo Blog,rural,The Dingle Way,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
The Pinnacles
The white sands and red clay cliffs make a striking contrast to green eucalyptus, blue skies and water. We live in a glorious corner of the universe, with National Parks, beaches, wetlands and mountains virtually at our doorstep. Trouble is, we are on the road so much that sometimes we forget to get out and explore when we are at home. That’s where having visitors comes in handy: there is no better way to appreciate your own neighbourhood than by showing it off to someone else!
It’s only a short drive from our little “Eden” to the northern half of Ben Boyd National Park – even so, we’d not been there before taking visitors to have a look last February.
The Walking Track
It’s an easy one kilometre circuit out to the Pinnacles and back to the car-park. The Path
A short rise leads us up through the banksia trees. Drying Banksia Flowers (Proteaceae)
Soon they will lose their characteristic flower spikes, and the gnarly “cones” will be visible. Saw Banksia or Old Man Banksia (Banksia Serrata)
I can’t see these gnarled trees without thinking of the Australian children’s writer, May Gibbs… May Gibbs
“Gumnut babies” are the flower/seed pods of the Eucalyptus (https://www.kopida.com/2011/12/may-gibbs.html) May Gibbs
“The Banksia Men Make a Wicked Plot”
(https://thinkdesignerprints.com.au/australiana/) Banksia Branch
Not quite “bad banksia men” yet, but these seed pods are browning. Long Beach
It looked like a beautiful afternoon on the beach. Usually you can walk down and view the Pinnacles from their base, but the steps were closed when we visited. The Pinnacles
The coloured cliffs of the Pinnacles come into view through Banksia branches. More Banksia
Trees line the sandy path around the point. The Pinnacles
The white sand and red clay cliffs of the Pinnacles were laid down over 30 million years ago. Leaf Litter and Seed Pods Termite Mound
The vegetation changes dramatically on the second half of the path, with tall trees and termite mounds. We even spotted two black cockatoo overhead! They were too fast for my camera. The short hike around the Pinnacles left us with time and energy to spare, especially as we couldn’t walk down to Long Beach. Just a ten minute drive up the road is Panboola, a protected wetlands, supported by National Parks and local agencies and industries, situated on 77 hectares (190 acres) of reclaimed farmland, town-land and a horse-racetrack.
It was late afternoon: a perfect time for a stroll.
Entry to Panboola
We parked close to the entry and wandered some of the pathways around the 77ha (190 acre) wetlands. Egret
From a covered pavilion near the entry, we learned about the reserve, and watched local waterbirds. Purple Wildflowers Picnic Table
There are places to sit, if you have time. Purple Swamphens (Porphyrio porphyrio) A Holstein
Areas within the wetland are still used as farmland. Old Stables
Buildings from the abandoned racecourse sit around the track. Old Grandstand Eastern Grey Kangaroos (Macropus giganteus)
Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to meet Australian wildlife. These kangaroos were the biggest I’ve come across. Two more eastern grey kangaroos watch us from a safe distance… … before bounding off into the scrub.  It is amazing what you find on your own doorstep!
Sometimes we forget that the “familiar” to us is “exotic” to someone else.
And, our own neighbourhoods are always worth exploring.
Happy rambles!
Pictures: 07February2013
Posted in Australia,Nature,TravelTags: Ben Boyd National Park,blog,National Park,nature,Panboola,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk,wetlands,woods
Guinness Black Ale
Ready for drinking at the Gravity Bar, top floor of the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin (iPhone S4). It was St Patrick’s Day this week, so it seemed fitting to return to another Irish cultural icon: Guinness.
July last year was wet in Ireland, and it rained much of the short time we were in Dublin. So, we visited the Guinness Storehouse: it was a good way to learn something about local history, while staying dry for a few hours.
As a bonus, we each got a “pint of black” with our entry price.
Sir Benjamen Lee Guinness (1798 – 1868)
The grandson of Arthur Guinness (founder of the Guinness brewery) has his statue in front of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which his funding helped restore. The Guinness dynasty has left an indelible mark on Dublin. Our open-bus tour took us past the house in which Arthur Guinness (1724/1725 – 1803), lived. Billed as an entrepreneur, visionary and philanthropist, in 1759 Arthur founded the now-famous brewery at St James’s Gate. An Irish Protestant, Guinness was deeply influenced by John Wesley’s theology of social ministry. He started (and funded) the first Sunday schools in Ireland; he gave vast amounts of money to hospitals and charitable projects for the poor; and he payed his workers about 20 percent more than other employers. More importantly, he passed his reformist ideology down to his heirs: “If you had worked for Guinness in 1928, a year before the Great Depression, you would have had 24-hour medical care, 24-hour dental care, on-site massage therapy.”
Over the generations, the Guinness family has been responsible for (among other things) funding parks and medical facilities, as well as restoring St. Patrick’s Cathedral and other public properties.
Guinness Storehouse
Entry to the original St. James’s Gate brewery, established in 1759. The original brewery at St James’s Gate is the centrepiece of the Guinness story. Inside the thick brick walls, what was once the old brewery and storehouse is now a museum built in girders and glass. Rising up the centre of the seven-story building is the world’s largest pint glass. At the base of the glass is a special document: the original 9000-year lease for the St James’s Gate property.
The Lease
The original 9000-year lease for the St James’s Gate Brewery is part of Guinness mythology; harder to track is the real story of expansion (from 4 to 50 acres) and changes of ownership over recent years. The Collection
Making a point for the breadth of Guinness history, the bottle case reminds us about the role of legal documents and developments in transportation in the Guinness story. A Guinness Guide
Before we are let loose on the several floors of audio-visual displays, we are given a brief talk. Bolts
Dim lighting and “industrial” architecture foster the image of a once-working brewery. Hops
The brewing story starts with four natural ingredients: yeast, barley, hops… Fresh Water
… and water – lots of water. Audio Visual
A combination of displays, old machinery. and explanatory posters walk you through the process. Old Machinery Explanations on Glass A Copper Kettle Looking Down
As we work our way up the “pint glass”, we can look back down over the ground-floor retail space. Industrial Pipes Machinery ~ Abstract Colour As well as explaining the brewing process, the museum looks at distribution and transportation. My great-grandfather was a cooper, so I was particularly interested in watching the short film about the Guinness Master Cooper, Dick Flanagan, making barrels.
The Coopers’ Barrels
An old film demonstrates the skill of the coopers who make the wooden barrels. Coopers’ Tools Labels over Time A large section of the museum displays sponsorship and advertising over the years. Who can forget “I like to watch” or other famous Guinness ads from years gone by? There are also sections on health and responsible drinking, tracing family who might have worked for the company, and even cooking with Guinness.
In keeping with the mythology of the perfect beer, there is an entire section instructing you how to pour a pint: a six-step process, achieved in two stages and taking exactly 119.5 seconds!
Part-pints, ready to be topped up. Guinness Baristas? Glass Bricks
The canteen on the sixth floor is empty as we work our way up the building. The Perfect Pour?
“Good things come to those who wait.” The Gravity Bar
On the top floor of the Storehouse, there is plenty of space to enjoy the views over Dublin. Pony Trap
Wet Dublin streets.
I confess: I don’t actually like Guinness, or any other beer.
I did my best to down my pint: I managed a quarter and gave the rest to my husband.
Outside it was still wet. Oh well – that’s Ireland.
Happy St Patrick’s Day ~ Sláinte!
Photos: 07July2012
Posted in Ireland,Museum,Travel,WorkTags: Guinness Storehouse,machinery,museum,people,Photo Blog,portrait,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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How amazing and what history… were you a history buff before travelling or has it inspired you? thanks as always for sharing your travels.
Hi Signe,
Thanks for visiting. Actually, most history bored me to tears at school, and I struggled to remember all the requisite dates. When I first went to England, however, I was captivated by the history in the very stones and walls of the buildings. And the gossip! All those plots and feuds!! Nothing like they taught us at school. 😉
[…] far-flung as South Wales (i.e.: Caerleon – watch this space!) and the south of France (see: Ancient History: Nîmes) and Spain (see: Layers: Cartagena and Málaga) brings history to life, and makes me marvel at the […]