Clay Bull’s-Head Rhyton Bulls featured hugely in ancient Minoan culture. While this decorated clay head in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum in Crete looks like it could have come out of a home-decor shop, it is actually a rhyton, an ancient Greek drinking horn, and dates somewhere between 1450 and 1370 BC.
I’m not normally a huge fan of museums: there are only so many plaques I can read on dusty displays before I hit overload, or become mind-numbingly bored.
But, all of the guide books and everyone I met on Crete recommended the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. It is reputed to be one of the greatest museums in Greece – and in a country where classical Greek ruins and artefacts are all around, that is saying something!
More importantly, the museum houses the world’s most extensive collection of Minoan art and artefacts. After my small taste of Minoan culture during a visit to the Palace of Knossos (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace), my interest was piqued.
The museum was originally founded in 1908, with a dedicated building erected between 1904 and 1912 in the centre of Heraklion. Following three damaging earthquakes, a new, modernist, anti-seismic construction was completed in 1940. Although the site suffered some damage during the Second World War, the collection – which spans antiquities from 7000 BC through to the Roman occupation in the third century CE – survived. The structure was extensively renovated between 2006 and 2013, and retains a fresh, contemporary appearance.
I was surprised when I was allowed to take the cameras inside – and even more surprised that I felt compelled to use them! While there are numerous examples of art from the Roman period (between 600 BC and 300 CE), I skimmed over them in favour of the earlier Cretan artefacts.
The ancient Minoan art absolutely captured me – and I spent far more time inside the museum than I had planned.
Heraklion Archaeological Museum The current museum – a modern anti-seismic structure – was built between 1937 and 1940 by Greek architect Patroklos Karantinos. Damaged in the Second World War, it has been repaired and extended over the years, and was extensively renovated between 2006 and 2013.
Marine Ritual Triton The age and beauty of the artifacts on display are breathtaking. This elegant trumpet shell dates between 3600 and 3000 BC.
Terracotta Goddess (5300 – 3000 BC) Pottery and weaving came into their own during the Neolithic period; …
“Steatopygous Goddess” from Pano Chorio … this beautiful little sculpture can take her place beside the Paleolithic Venus figurines of Europe.
Neolithic Jug (2600-1900 BC.) The descriptive signage calls the decoration of these dishes ‘typical’. I find the jug shape, and the pattern of converging lines, both beautiful and modern.
Clay Figurines (1900-1700 BC) This ancient woman (and the men) are believed to be in an ‘attitude of worship’.
Storage Jars The building’s designer, Patroklos Karantinos (1903-1976) is described as an architect of ‘classical modernism’. The place feels spacious and airy, with plenty of light from the skylights above and along the top of the walls.
Patterned Jugs Wonderful shapes and designs are everywhere!
Decorated Pots Kamares ware is a stylish example of Middle Minoan (2100-1600 BC) ceramics, characterized by elegant shapes, and light-on-dark abstract and floral patterns.
Kamares Ware (1900-1700 BC) The style is named for a cave, discovered in 1864, where some of best examples were found.
Model of the Palace of Knossos Knossos was the center of Minoan civilization during the Neopalatial period (1750 –1450 BC). This impressive and detailed wooden model of the palace’s complex floor plan was made by Zacharias S. Kanakis – who was the conservator of the Archaeological Society of Athens in 1968.
Bull’s Head Rhyton and Figurines Considering that these beautiful objects are around 4000 years old, it amazes me that so many have survived!
Another Bull’s Head Rhyton (1500-1450 BC) These clay libation vessels were used at royal banquets and were symbols of high status. The purpose of the rhyton was to deliver a controlled amount of liquid into the bowl of the banqueter – but they were sometimes drunk from directly.
Phaistos Disc (Early 17th Century BC) The descriptive plaque calls this clay object ‘enigmatic’. The forty-five pictorial signs and their different arrangements are assumed to be words, but the meaning and the relationship to Cretan script has not been established. Best guess is that this disc from Phaistos depicts a hymn or a magic spell.
Bull-Leaping Fresco I’ve shared a picture of this fresco before (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace). It shows the most spectacular Minoan acrobatic sport: bull-leaping. Young athletes made a dangerous leap over the horns and back of a charging bull – presumably in front of a large crowd of excited spectators.
Double Axes Offerings of small axes were made from gold, silver, and bronze sheet. (1700-1450)
Clay Figurines (1650-1500 BC) These stylised clay figurines are thought to depict worshippers.
And Another Bull’s Head Rhyton (1550-1500 BC) This partially restored libation vessel was carved from a single block of black steatite.
Where Art and Myth Meet : The Ring of Minos (1450-1400 BC) Found in Knossos, the so-called Ring of Minos is a stunning work of Minoan art, inscribed with religious iconography.
Figurines of the Snake Goddess (1650-1550 BC) These are considered the most important religious objects from the Knossos Temple Repositories. The figurines of the “Snake Goddess” are named for the snakes twining around the body and arms of the larger figure, and the two snakes that the smaller figure holds in her hands. The snakes symbolise the chthonic (underground, living in the underworld) character of the goddess. The cat on the head of the smaller figure is thought to suggest her dominion over wildlife. Both wear luxurious clothes, with close-fitting bodices exposing their breasts to symbolise the fertility of the goddess, women, and nature itself.
Decorative and Functional Pitchers
The Poppy Goddess (1300-1200 BC) Five goddess figurines were found in a small shrine room at Gazi, Heraklion. They are crowned with – among other things – symbols believed to be the fruit of the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum).
Burial Pithoi During the Neopalatial period (1700-1450 BC), the dead were laid to rest in wide-mouthed clay jars (pithoi), in wooden coffins, …
Clay Larnakes … on beds and biers, or in sarcophagi chests made of clay.
Bronze Grave Statue : Hellenistic Period (Mid 1st Cent BC) Jump forward two thousand years, and funereal art is more classically realistic, as in this sculpture of a sorrowful young man in a mantle.
Winged Cupids These terracotta cupids from the Hellenistic period (323 BC – 30 BC) probably accompanied the burial of a women or child.
And, so the cycle of life continues … bringing out the best of human creativity.
The magnificent art and artefacts that were once used in daily life, religious practice, and burial rituals that are on display in the Archaeological Museum are rightly celebrated!
Washing amid the Marigolds On the Haridwar Ghats on the River Ganges, a young woman dressed in the same colours as the flower-offerings around her, rinses out some cloths.
India is a collection of colourful paradoxes.
Nowhere is this more evident than in the Holy Cities along the Ganges: that river that is the embodiment of all the sacred waters in Hindu mythology and at the same time, one of the most contaminated rivers in the world.
So, while it is said that you wash away your sins by bathing in the Ganges, the toxic waters could also kill you.
I love wandering through Indian streets with a camera: so much life goes on in public, and most people are willing to invite strangers into their world. This is especially true in places like Haridwar, an ancient and very holy city in North India’s Uttarakhand state. In this pilgrimage city, many of the people one meets in the streets are travelers, carrying their belongings with them, and pleased to have arrived at this holy place. They will happily share a cup of masala chai with the foreigner in their midst and smile for the camera.
Various legendary stories are told about how the Goddess Ganga came from heaven to earth and created the river Ganges (Ganga) near Haridwar; in geographic terms, the river has flowed for 253 kilometres (157 mi) from its source high (4,023 m / 13,200 ft) at Gaumukh (Gomukh) at the edge of the Gangotri Glacier before flattening out into the Gangetic Plain. The city is located on the banks of the river, close enough to the source that the waters running through it are clear, cool, and fast-flowing.
Haridwar has been called the ‘Gateway to Gods’. It is said to have been sanctified by the presence of three Hindu Gods: Brahma, Vishnu, and Mahesh. It is also one of the saptapurī, or “seven cities” where Hindu pilgrims can be blessed with moksha – liberation from the cycle of birth and death. In addition, it is one of only four cities where drops from the “pot of amrita – the nectar of immortality” fell to earth: cities that as a consequence host the huge Kumbh Mela religious gathering once every 12 years (see: Kumbh Mela).
On this particular trip to Haridwar, I had arrived in the morning, via an overnight train from Delhi (see: The Rails and Roads of India). My accommodation was centrally located a short distance from the sacred Ganga Ma, so I took myself out into the streets for a photo-walk before meeting up with my group for the evening Ganga Aarti (Watch this space!).
Join me in the streets and waters of Haridwar.
Felted Vests One of the many things I love about India is the beautiful handicrafts available everywhere, …
Textile Sellers … and the fact that the shopkeepers are smiling and friendly, even when they know I’m not going to buy anything.
Buying Textiles Even if I’m not shopping, someone else might be!
Building Front The buildings are finely decorated and colourfully painted.
Leaping Macaque Monkeys are at home everywhere …
Sow in the Street … and while wandering cows are a common sight, I was rather surprised by this well-fed pig. I’m not sure if the man was with her, or just posing opportunistically.
Just Stopping – Not Parking
Sree Sree Bholanand Sannyas Ashram This close to the holy river, there are countless Ashrams, each with its own spiritual leader.
A Splash of Colour
Tikka Seller
Religious Paraphernalia Spiritual practices along the Ganges include: the tying of strings around the wrist or other parts of the body before performing a religious ceremony like a pooja; making offerings of puffed rice and spices; collecting the holy waters in a kumbh or a plastic jug; …
Tikka Powder … and placing a tilaka (mark) on the Ajna chakra (third eye) with tikka powder made of sindoor (vermillion), ash, sandalwood paste, turmeric, or other products.
Woman Selling Shirts Some of the products on offer in the street are more prosaic.
Street Seller I don’t know how much the shirts were selling for – but the ten rupee in this woman’s hand is worth about USD $0.12.
Flower Offerings for Sale Flowers are among the things offered to Mother Ganga; these days they are usually in a biodegradable cardboard, or in a banana leaf, rather than in the foil trays that were once common. I love the care with which products are laid out.
Shiva Shrine on the Ganges Haridwar sits at the boundary between the Indo-Gangetic Plain to the south and the foothills of the Himalaya to the north. Here, the waters of the Ganges River are still running clear and cold from their mountain origins.
Young Women The ghats along the river see a mixture of all aspects of daily life – including groups of young women in pristine school uniforms.
Ganges Water The River Ganges is believed to be the embodiment of the Goddess of salvation, Ganga Ma, or Mother Ganges. The holy river is thought to cleanse believers both spiritually and physically – and so devotees often carry water home with them.
Ganges Ghats The river is India’s lifeblood, flowing 2704 km (1680 mi) from its source in the Gangotri glacier in the Himalaya, through the heartland of North India, and into Bangladesh and the Bay of Bengal.
Pilgrims Hindu pilgrims travel from all over the country to visit the sacred river and the Holy Cities.
Bathing in the Ganges All along the course of the holy river, Hindus bathe in the waters, removing symbolic dirt and any sins.
Dunking in the Ganges
Boys on the Bridge A group of young men watch me from an overpass as I make my way back up from the ghats.
I had time for a short break before heading out again –
It is always a joy wandering through Indian streets – even if I am at risk of sensory overload.
Looking over the Main Range The Snow Gums Boardwalk at Charlotte Pass allows views over the top of Australia. Snowed-in during the winter, the boardwalk is accessible from early October – when snow still clings to the ground. In summer (January) the meadows here are bright with endemic wildflowers. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
The snows in the Australian mountains departed before I had a chance to ski this year. A warm front came through, and the season finished early. I even missed the opportunity for post-season walks; I often drive down for an annual meeting in October, but this year I had to phone it in.
As I have written before (see: Winter in the Snowy Mountains), Australia’s ski season is short and unpredictable. But, we are grateful to have one at all!
The aptly named Snowy Mountains in southeastern New South Wales are part of the continent’s Great Dividing Range. Being only a short distance from the coast, they attract a lot of precipitation which falls as snow most winters. What we now call the High Country was a summer meeting place for Aboriginal groups for thousands of years. European explorers visited in the early 1800s, and stockmen soon followed, grazing their cattle in the alpine meadows during the summer months. In 1859, gold was discovered at Kiandra (elevation 1,400 m – 4,600 ft). After a winter with heavy snow in 1860, three Norwegians built skis and introduced recreational skiing to their colleagues there. And so, the Australian Kiandra Pioneer Ski Club was founded in 1861 (see: Alpinestartgate) – making it the oldest ski club in the world!
The Snowy Mountains are not very high when compared with mountains around the world; the highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko is only 2,228 metres (7,310 ft). Only the peaks in the main range receive consistent heavy winter snow, and seasons like this year, the light snowpack can disappear early.
To cheer myself up after missing my chance to get on the snow, I’ve taken a deep-dive into some very old photos from seasons past. They are mostly taken on old iPhones – unless I’m wildflower-walking in summer, I don’t usually take the cameras up the hill.
Join me for some distinctive Snowy Mountain views.
Eucalyptus Tree Tops In the Australian mountains and tablelands above 700 m (2,300 ft), beautiful snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) thrive. The new growth in early spring is red; I was once told this is to prevent sunburn in the pure air, but I can’t confirm that. (iPhone5 – 06September2014)
Spring Blossoms Just 30 minutes down the road, the little alpine town of Jindabyne sits at 915 m (3002 ft) and is in a completely different weather zone. Spring has well and truly arrived there while winter still clings higher up. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Raven in a Snow Gum The harsh cry of ravens always tell me I’m high in the Snowy Mountains. The region is home to the little raven and the Australian raven; I can’t tell them apart! (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Snow Gum Bark Snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) are beautiful, slow-growing trees. New bark is smooth with colours ranging from white to grey-brown with pink and yellow hues. It becomes more vibrant when there is a lot of moisture in the environment, and darkens with age, peeling in strips. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Spencers Creek Even in mid-spring, pockets of old snow remain in the cool corners where Spencers Creek and Betts Creek meet. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Heath on the Hill Low shrubs and heath survive under the snow all winter, bursting to life in spring. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Sparkly Snow and Spiky Plants (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Scarlet Robin – Petroica Boodang On a walk over the off-season ski hills at Perisher Resort, we spot a small Australian robin. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)
From the Track to Blue Cow The Ski Tube used to run all summertime, bringing hikers up to the meadows around Blue Cow. Now that you have to walk up the hill, the off-season resort is almost deserted with only the sounds of nature to be heard. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)
Rocks atop Blue Cow The almost-empty ski resort looks very different with only pockets of snow left. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)
Fencing on Blue Cow At 1900 m (6234 ft), much of Blue Cow is above the treeline, and is exposed to the elements all year round. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)
Gravel Track on Blue Cow The walking track from Mount Perisher to the Blue Cow Ski Resort follows a service road that serves as a rolling green-run in winter. We return to our car the way we came. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)
Spring Snow Fields In winter, you can hear many of the small creeks gurgling beneath the snow; in spring, they rush to life with the snow-melt. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)
Snow in the Gums Some years, there is fresh snow into spring, … (iPhone6 – 06September2017)
Chairlift and Snow Gums … but it is coupled with appalling visibility. Still, with a season so short, you ski in whatever comes! (iPhone6 – 07September2017)
Still Life Found : Snow Gum Trunk (iPhone6 – 08September2017 )
The Weight of Snow Commonly known as snow gums, cabbage gums, or white sally, the eucalyptus pauciflora is a compact tree whose branches twist with the weather. (iPhone6 – 08September2017)
A Scattering of Skiers Pretty Valley is well-named: it is a delightful bowl suited to all levels. (iPhone6 – 08September2017)
Top of the World When I look out over the mountains to the end of snowscape, I always feel like I’m at the top of the world. (iPhone6 – 10September2018)
Wrinkles and Folds I love the endless variations in the trunks of snow gums … (iPhone6 – 12September2018)
New Growth … and the way new shoots sprout in seemingly random places. (iPhone6 – 12September2018)
Historic Lodges in the Gums From one year to the next, the ski runs – and the historic lodges tucked amongst them – look different. (iPhone6 – 23June2019)
Pilatus Gondola You could hike up Mount Pilatus – but the cogwheel train or the Dragon Ride Gondola will get you to the top much faster! Plus, they leave you with breath to explore the area on the 2073 m (6802 ft) Pilatus Kulm.
Switzerland truly has a magical landscape.
And, thanks to a wonderful train system, it’s accessible.
We were staying with friends near Zurich (eg: Swiss Apples and National Day and Lines and Patterns). Thanks to their local knowledge, and their recommendation that we pre-purchase Swiss Travel Passes, we had easy access to daily adventures. Mid-summer, we made a day trip to Lucerne (see: Postcards from Lucerne) and nearby Mount Pilatus, the massif overlooking the city.
Part of a longer range in the Swiss Alps, Mount Pilatus itself is composed of several peaks – the highest of which is Tomlishorn (2,128.5 m – 6,983 ft). Some say the name ‘Pilatus’ came about because Pontius Pilate was buried there – but other mountains make the same claim. Others say it is so named because it looks like the belly of Pilate, lying on his back. The more like story is that the name is derived from “pileatus” (“capped” in Latin), and refers to the clouds that often collect at the top the mountain. It was certainly cloudy the day we visited: obscuring our ability to see upward and over the surrounding peaks, but not diminishing views of the town, lake and valley below.
Like many other summer tourists, we started and finished in Lucerne, taking the cogwheel train up from the designated station at Alpnachstad, and the aerial cableway back down to Kriens. On the hill top (Kulm), we enjoyed the views from the observation deck, lunched outdoors among the mountaintops and crows, and went for a walk in the hanging cloud.
Join me for a visit up Mount Pilatus:
Countryside Everything in Switzerland is easily accessible by train – and the views are lovely.
Lake Lucerne and Pilatus from the Train
Signposts on the Rail Line
Pilatus Cog Rail Car At the Alpnachstad PB railway station, the lower terminus of the Pilatus Railway, we watch the cogwheel railcars climb and descend.
In the Queue It’s a busy summer day, and we have a long wait in the sun for rail tickets.
Child in the Shadows
Over the Valley Soon it is our turn to enter a railcar, and rise high over the valley around Alpnach.
The Railway Rack This is the steepest rack railway in the world, with a maximum gradient of 48% and an average gradient of 35%.
Above Lake Alpnach The lakes and the valley come into view far below as we climb.
Passengers in a Cable Car Higher up, we pass another car on its way back down the mountain; …
Down the Hill … and the rack stretches out behind us as we climb.
Pilatus Peaks The peak of the mountain is steep and jagged …
Down the Valley … and the valley, meadows, and other peaks stretch out below.
Hotel Pilatus-Kulm Built in 1890 and completely renovated in 2010, the historic Berghotel Pilatus-Kulm stands at top of our journey.
On the Observation Deck
Hang Glider Pilatus is a mecca for outdoor activities of all time.
Sneak Peak Clouds roll in around us – but the occasional snow-covered peaks sneak through.
On the Hill We took ourselves out for a walk up the mountainside.
Barbed Wire Part of the mountaintop is home to part of the Swiss radar system used for military and civil aviation. These areas are not open to the public.
Walkers on the Stairs The stairs are steep and the walkways are narrow …
In the Fog … and cling to the mountainside.
Clouds in the Valley
Crows on the Balcony
Train Down The cog railway continues to run up and down the hill.
Alpenhorn On the platform outside the railway terminal, an elderly gentleman plays an alpine horn.
Cow on the Hill
Fräkmüntegg Terminal Ten minutes down the hill, our gondola pauses briefly in another terminal, …
Gondola … before gliding back over the valley …
Gondolas … and into the trees.
The Town Below The cables and supporting towers are overhead against the sky and the town of Kriens comes into view below.
Gondolas Overhead The clouds follow us downhill as we approach our final stop in Kreins.
It’s hard to imagine a bad day in Switzerland.
Even with heavy cloud cover, our visit to Pilatus, that iconic mountain peak towering over the charming city of Lucerne, was a delight.
Misfat Al Abriyeen With a 300-plus-year history of human settlement and agriculture, this is an area known for its incredible mud architecture and its traditional Omanifalaj irrigation system.
Nestled at the foot of the Hajar Mountains are some of the oldest villages in Oman.
This is a rugged, desert region with little rainfall. Settlements could only survive where ground water was available. But, where water was found, it was ingeniously managed. Using a type of irrigation system developed 5000 years ago in Persia, UNESCO-World Heritage Listed water channels in the north of Oman date back to 500 AD.
Called aflaj (plural) or falaj, from the classical Arabic meaning “split into parts”, the system uses gravity to channel water from underground sources or springs and then divides it among community members to support crops and domestic use. This allowed the development of agriculture and gave rise to permanent villages. Watchtowers and forts were built in defensive positions near or overlooking the sharia (distribution point: literally “the clear, well-trodden path to water”) and falaj channels.
My visit to Oman included a walk around Misfat Al Abriyeen (Misfat al Abriyyin) in the Al Hamra region. This traditional village built into a mountainside has a 300-year history and is known for its mud buildings, which use giant boulders as foundations. It is also home to some of the more than 3,000 aflaj still functioning in the country.
We drove to a viewpoint over the town from the nearby mountain of Jebel Shams (see: The Grand Canyon of Arabia), before taking a walk through the steep and narrow ancient streets.
A Rugged Landscape Looking across the arid foothills around Jebel Shams, you get a feel for how difficult early life must have been for the semi-nomadic tribes who settled near here.
Misfat al-Abriyeen and Al Hamra Small mountain villages, with their clever management of spring water, have become oases in an otherwise arid landscape.
Rocky Terrain The rocks tumbled around the mountain village of Misfat Al Abriyeen are a sample of the those used to construct the ancient buildings we are about to walk through.
Rustic Door Oman is known for its doors, which range from simple bolted wood …
Coloured Patterns … to colourful patterned confections in painted iron.
Locked?
Workmen This village is very lived-in; keeping the ancient buildings maintained must require a lot of effort!
Narrow Laneway Narrow lanes and steep stairs wind off from the main path …
Boy in the Street There aren’t many people around, but we spot a few.
Unripe Pomegranate As we follow a water canal down the hill, our path is lined with greenery.
Playing in the Falaj A small tank built into the falaj system …
Boys in the Falaj … makes an ideal spot to play and cool off.
Metal Door
Village on the Hill We’ve descended a fair distance from our starting point.
Staircase What comes down, must go up!
Metal Window Shutters I use another ornate metal design as an excuse to pause on the ascent.
Building on a Cliff The incredible mud-brick and stone buildings use the hulking boulders of the terrain for their foundations.
Date Palms Dates are central to Omani life, and palms are the most visible trees in the plantations that also contain mangoes, bananas, papayas, pomegranates, and citrus fruits.
Brick Wall and More Stairs
House Front A decade ago many of the old houses were abandoned, but the rise in tourist visitors is bringing locals back to renovate their old houses and make an additional income.
Window Rails
Pots for Sale Tourism has revitalise the local crafts …
Pots in the Wind … and plenty of beautiful clay pots are available for purchase.
Palms and a Village At the top of the hill, we get a look over the newer city before heading back to our car.
Misfat Al Abriyeen is a beautiful mud village, blending seamlessly into the very rocks of the mountainside around it, and nourished by the falaj that runs through it.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
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The magnificent art and artefacts that were once used in daily life, religious practice, and burial rituals that are on display in the Archaeological Museum are rightly celebrated! 
Even with heavy cloud cover, our visit to Pilatus, that iconic mountain peak towering over the charming city of Lucerne, was a delight.
