Women in the Bay of Bengal A day at the beach has a whole different meaning in Pondicherry, the French Riviera of the East, in South India.
Puducherry / Pondicherry, in Peninsular India, is known for its colonial charm.
The colonial period there began in 1521 with the Portuguese – the first Europeans to conduct textile trade in the region. The Dutch and the Danes followed in the 17th century, but it was the French who had the most enduring influence after they built a settlement there in 1674. In spite of some back-and-forthing with other European powers, the region remained predominantly in French hands until 1954, when Puducherry and the other territories of French India were completely transferred to the Republic of India.
But the wide boulevards, some of the buildings, and many of the cultural influences, remain. Many roads and districts still have French names. Boutiques and cafés in the flower-lined streets and monuments along the promenade on the waterfront add to the colonial charm. No wonder this famous beach town is called the French Riviera of the East.
The region is also a spiritual haven: the city’s architectural monuments bear testament to the ongoing importance of imported Catholic practices alongside older Hindu and Muslim traditions. One of India’s most important ashrams, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, is tucked into the city streets, and the affiliated experimental township of Auroville (City of Dawn) is located nearby.
I was travelling with a small group across South India. On our first day in the Union Territory of Puducherry, we drove the short distance to Auroville to spend the morning visiting this fascinating experimental community. Founded in 1968 by the spiritual guru and yoga teacher, Mirra Alfassa, it is dedicated to the vision of Sri Aurobindo (1872 – 1950), Indian philosopher, yogi, maharishi, poet, journalist, and nationalist. It was he who first called Alfassa ‘La Mère’, The Mother; he considered her to be his yogic equal.
On our next day, we visited a local wet market (see: Morning in Goubert Market) and the historic Vedapureeswarer Temple and Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (see: Candy Coloured Temples and Churches), before being let loose to our own devices after lunch.
The Banyan Tree Banyan trees are regarded as sacred in India; this one is over 100 years old, and was defined as Auroville’s geographic centre after it was found on an otherwise barren plateau overlooking the Bay of Bengal.
Round Rocks – Round Tree The complex was conceived by Mirra Alfassa and designed by French architect, Roger Anger (1923 – 2008).
Taking in the Matrimandir The spiritual heart of Auroville is the Matrimandir, “a symbol of the Divine’s answer to man’s aspiration for perfection”.
Visitors to the Dome Visitors come from all over; only those who have sought permission ahead of time are allowed inside the Matrimandir and its immediate surrounds – where silence is maintained.
Water Lily – Nymphaeaceae – Wealth The Mother named 12 qualities and assigned a colour to each. She also assigned a spiritual significance to over 800 flowers. “True wealth is the wealth that one offers to the Divine.”
Orchid Tree – Bauhinia purpurea L. These are the flower of Hong Kong, and always bring to my mind the struggles there. The Mother defined butterfly-tree flowers as symbols of “Stability in the higher vital”.
Pondicherry Beach Our accommodation in Pondicherry’s French Quarter was wonderfully located: after lunch, I tumbled out the door and onto the famous beach.
Promenade Beach It is the middle of winter – but we are in the tropics, and average January temperatures range between lows of 22°C (71°F) and highs of 28°C (83°F). Even so, you won’t see nudity or skimpy bathing suits here!
Old Port Pier Locals are proud of their beach, but looking south towards the Old Port Pier, you can take in the litter left behind, and the thinning of the once-broad strip of sand that has suffered ongoing erosion in spite of attempts to save it.
Couple on the Rocks
Gandhi On Beach Road, the white granite structure sheltering the bronze statue of independence leader Mahatma Gandhi is partially obscured by nearby scaffolding.
Old Lighthouse A 29 m (95 ft) lighthouse, built in the 1830s, stands watch.
Jawaharlal Nehru Statue A statue to Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of Independent India stands on a pedestal nearby.
The Water Tank In Bharathi Park, young men gather around the shell-shaped reverse-osmosis water tank.
‘State Symbols Of Puducherry’ The park is delightful to walk around – and is interspersed with educational signboards.
Buddha and a Bodhi Tree
Couple on a Wooden Bench Back on the beach, more couples enjoy time on the waterfront.
Scooter in the Street Some of the terraces in the old town look tired and worn, but still elegant.
Shopping for Trinkets The area between the park and the beach is a mecca of sand toys, wind chimes, and other trinkets.
Clay Wind Chimes
Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple A 34 m (110 ft) tall five-tiered rajagopuram – the ornate monumental entrance gateway tower – leads into a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu.
Inside the Temple In the style typical of Dravidian temple architecture, the roofs of the shrines inside are colourfully decorated with stories of the Gods.
Painted Ceiling Colourful mandalas adorn the ceilings.
Bell Tower
Vishnu on a Dome
Immaculate Conception Cathedral Not far away, I come across the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception. Built in Portuguese-style in 1791 by French Jesuits, it is one of the city’s many different places of worship.
Nandi – Shiva’s Devotee Even away from the temples and churches, much of the art has a religious reference.
Rickshaws and Motorcycles
Although I was underwhelmed by the once-famous beach itself – the grey overcast of winter and the ubiquitous litter present everywhere in India probably coloured my view – I thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon walk appreciating the city’s architecture and history.
A Cairn on the Canyon Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’ at Jebel Shams is the second deepest canyon in the world – after the one in Arizona, USA.
I knew virtually nothing about Oman before travelling there – my aim was a long-awaited trip to Egypt (eg: Souvenirs of Egypt) and Jordan (eg: Postcards from Jordan), and I had the chance to tack another stop onto my journey.
Oman has a subtropical dry climate, and is defined as being 82 percent desert; given that it is tucked at the bottom of the Arabian Peninsula, I was expecting – and got – a magical desert sojourn (eg: Life in the Desert). The roads were smooth and straight, making touring easy. Once we were away from the rugged coastline, much of the landscape was rocky and flat, interspersed with date groves and forts. I visited a lot of forts! We had visited one that very morning (see: Jabreen Castle).
The remaining 15 percent of the country is mountainous. The Hajar range – running parallel to the northern coastline of Oman – is home to Jebel Shams (جَبَل شَمْس – Mountain of Sun), the country’s highest peak (3018 meters, 9902 feet), and the Al Nakhur (Al Nakhr) Canyon.
This canyon is also known as Wadi Nakhar, Wadi Ghul, and/or the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Arabia/Oman. It is well named! This gorge, which runs through the valley at the base of Jebel Shams and into the Western Hajar Mountains, is at least 500m (1640 ft) long, and up to 1,000m (3281 ft) deep. The top of Jebel Shams is home to a military installation, and access to that side of the canyon is restricted; the vantage point we drove to was on a high plateau opposite the mountain peak.
You can hike along the bottom of the Wadi Ghul / Wadi Nakhr gulley, or along the top on the 4km (2.5m) out-and-back Jebel Shams Balcony Walk (see: ZigZagonEarth Jebel Shams). Our driver gave us a short briefing and left us to our own devices at the top of the plateau, where I happily wandered taking photos.
Rocky Hillside from the Car Because of the brick construction of those buildings, I’m not sure if that is one of the abandoned villages in the area, or if it is still inhabited. This region was once home to dozens of remote mountain settlements, but in the early 2000s the Government of Oman moved most of the inhabitants to less remote locations.
Roadworks Most of the roads I traveled on in Oman were smooth bitumen highways. In this region, however, heavy annual rains destroy the road surface, so it is graded, but there is no effort to pave it in between seasons.
Nature’s Still Life Found Small shrubs cling to the granite boulders at the top of the lookout-plateau.
The Canyon The patterns and striations in the walls of the canyon are mesmerising.
Military Installation The white domes on the top of Jebel Shams are rather other-worldly.
Stripes Those layer of rock speak to the pressures of inconceivable time!
Overhanging Lookout Ledge There are no guard rails; …
People on Top … anyone with severe vertigo might want to re-think their visit.
Small Shrubs
Into Forever The canyon walls and the blue mountains float off into the distance, …
Patterned Rock … while the unique patterns on the rocks here on the plateau catch my attention.
Don’t Look Down! The wadi – a ravine or channel that is dry except in the rainy season – winds through the valley far below.
Slabs in the Sun
Cairn Against the Sky
An Otherworldly Landscape Powerlines run alongside the dirt road: the area is not completely isolated.
Tumbled Blocks
On the Track Goats mingle with the tourists on the rocky paths.
Men on the Lookout In one of the few fenced areas on the plateau …
Guides Chatting … local drivers catch up on the news.
Rocky Landscape When my travel companion and I have had our fill of the canyon rim, we drive back west – through more rocky terrain.
It is a stark, but beautiful landscape; this imposing gorge is well worth exploring.
Late-Morning Light The platform at the Haridwar Railway Station looks fresh and bright – washed in late morning light and smiling faces – when our train from Delhi rolls in.
One of the tha biggest challenges of travel is getting around once you land where you are going.
I had taken trains in India before, and while each trip resulted in ‘stories to tell’, none was what I would describe as pleasant. But, my photographic group – under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours – was headed to Haridwar and Amritsar and had to get there somehow. So, another train trip was on the agenda.
And, it was a surprisingly orderly, comfortable, and pleasant one!
I say ‘surprisingly’ advisedly. India is known for trains with people piled on, packed in, and hanging off the sides. Even though I had never travelled third-class, I had been squashed into compartments of questionable cleanliness with strangers and their pungent tiffin boxes and oddly-shaped bags. The WC compartments don’t bear remembering.
The last time I took the train from Delhi to Haridwar, it was in an overnight second-class carriage packed with people on the move for the Kumbh Mela celebration. We literally climbed over prone and seated bodies to get to our curtained compartment. One of my companions brought a length of chain so we could lock our bags to the legs of our bunk beds while we attempted to sleep.
The difference this time was palpable: a wallah even came through the carriages with hot tea mid morning! Mind you, we still had to run through the stations at either end to keep the porters and our bags in sight.
The railway stations – and the streets of Haridwar – were still a delightful chaos of activity and colour, but without the throngs of mela pilgrims, it was easy to wander around in comfort. Even the Ganges looked different: there were still plenty of people bathing in the icy currents rushing down from the source in the Himalaya, but nowhere near the 10 million who were in town last time I visited (see: Some of the 10 Million)!
Going back to these old pictures, I’ve bad to throw a lot away: I don’t know what I was doing! The shutter speeds are far too low and many of the photos are blurry. Still, I’m keeping more than I should because I like the content – if not the quality.
Waiting for the Train This was Haridwar Railway Station when I visited during the Kumbh Mela in 2010.
A Train is Coming When your train arrived, you needed to be ready!
In the Train Station By contrast, when we arrived at New Delhi Railway Station early one morning in 2013, it was positively quiet!
Porter The porters had a clear path – unlike on my previous trip when they had to zig-zag like football players in action.
Train on the Move It was still a busy place, though, with trains coming and going every few minutes.
Almost Abstract : Train Station I confess: I have no idea how I achieved this, or what I was aiming for, but I like it.
Sunrise on the Train When our train pulls out of the station, the early morning sun is rising into New Delhi’s hazy sky. (iPhone5)
Sunrise in the Haze (iPhone5)
Old Porter When we arrive in Haridwar, …
Young Porter … the porters grab our bags and set off.
Portrait of a Porter
Woman at the Train Station There are always interesting people around railway stations.
Street Scenes from my Rickshaw There is a real mix of transportation modes in the streets of Haridwar; I watch it all from the back of my cycle rickshaw as I travel the short distance to my hotel.
Street Food Food everywhere you look! Haridwar is one of the holiest Hindu cities in India, and all the food available in the centre is strictly vegetarian.
Testing a Conch In Hindu mythology, conch shells are sacred emblems of the God Vishnu. The sound from them is said to be symbolic of the sacred ‘Om’ , and they are are important components in the ritual observances that take place along the Ganges River near here.
Vegetable Seller I love the availability of beautiful, fresh fruit.
More Street Food
Police Woman I just love people’s willingness to be photographed by me: an outsider and a stranger.
Laughter This is what I was talking about above: a photo that is a technical failure, but that I love.
Making Chapati In another shop, a man sits making chapati.
Great Hair Between chapatis, he has time to smile for my camera.
Street Food – Baking Buns All the street vendors have their own little niche.
Bun Baker
Scooter in an Alley Streets go off in all directions.
Shiny Corridors My accommodation is a wonderful refuge from the bustle of the streets.
On the Bridge What could be more Swiss? The weekend walkers are out, enjoying a beautiful sunny day and utilising an engineering marvel in a glorious setting. The walkway between Rapperswil and Hurden is the longest wooden bridge in Switzerland (841 m / 2759 ft). The current structure was opened in April 2001; built of untreated oak, experts give it a lifespan of 50 to 70 years.
Once upon a time, a long, long time ago, my husband I were staying with friends in that enchanted, fairy-tale-land of mountains, lakes, and alpine meadows known today as Switzerland …
It really does feel that long ago! That is what happens when you have too many external drives full of photos and memories. They slip to the bottom of the pile and risk being overlooked.
And, it really was that magical. Every day that we were there, we wandered through picturesque landscapes, rimmed by magnificent mountains, full of green spaces, flowers, and fragrant coffee. On one ‘ordinary’ day, we took a little walk from our friends’ home, and across Lake Zurich.
Yes, across the lake!
We were walking a path taken by Neolithic communities, by Roman rulers, and by medieval warriors. We were in the footsteps of pilgrims on of The Way of St. James to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain, and of tourists, hikers, and nature-lovers alike.
On a map, Lake Zürich and Lake Obersee look like one body of water. But, there is a narrow passage between the towns of Rapperswil-Jona and the village of Hurden. At this point, three Swiss Cantons (Zurich, Schwyz, and St. Gallen) meet, and the body of water changes name.
At times, residents of towns on either side of this narrowing have relied on ferry boats to cross. But, prehistoric timber pilings recovered in this area date back to 1523 BCE, and suggest that a bridge was in place for the Neolithic and Bronze Age occupants of the now-UNESCO World Heritage-listed stilt-house settlement nearby.
Much later, in the 2nd century CE, the Romans built a 6 metres (20 ft) wide wooden footbridge here. But, that seems to have been followed by a long gap. Then, between 1358 and 1360, the House of Habsburg-Austria opened the next generation of bridges. Used by pedestrians, cart traffic, and livestock, this elevated walkway was 1450 m long and rested on 546 oak posts. The bridge was partially destroyed by wars and the forces of nature several times. Renovated repeatedly – the last time in 1847 – it remained in use until 1878.
The current wooden footbridge was opened in April 2001. It lies just south of the Seedamm, the stone causeway and bridge built in 1878 to accommodates vehicle traffic and a rail line. The footbridge is particularly popular with birders and other nature-lovers for the opportunity to visit waterfowl breeding areas. It also provides the only means of access to the historic medieval Heilig Hüsli Chapel.
We had passed the start of the bridge – and under the Seedamm – a week prior in order to access a boat across Lake Zurich (see: Swiss Apples And National Day). What really captured my attention as we meandered across the boardwalk was the geometric lines and angles of the bridge itself, and the altered view of the lake that the walk gave us.
Swans on the Lakeshore From the shore of Obersee (“Upper Lake”), we can see the 1.5 metre-high (4 ft 11 in) bridge on some of its 233 wooden posts.
On the Bridge at Rapperswil The bridge stretched away and angles left to meet the Heilig Hüsli Chapel, and to skirt a small island that is a nature reserve and important waterfowl breeding habitat. You can see a train on the nearby Seedamm.
Diorama in the Bridge Nestled into the base of the bridge is a little tribute to those medieval predecessors who once walked here.
Green Much of this side of the lake is declared protected wetlands – no boating or swimming is allowed.
Leading Lines
Ripples in the Grasses The bridge acts like a hide, and gives us access that we would not otherwise have to the wetlands.
Eurasian Coot – Fulica Atra These are the same birds we get on our estuary at home.
Knotty Wood
Almost Abstract : Fish Swimming I love Nature’s artworks! You get such a different perspective walking close above the water, instead of along the shore.
Other End of the Bridge The canton of Schwyz comes into view as we work our way across the lake.
Boat on the Lake We might be in what the Swiss call the “Low Country”, but beautiful mountains rise up all around.
Pillars in the Water
Perennial Cornflower – Centaurea Montana Back on the shore, we are surrounded by summer wildflowers.
Wild Rosehip – Rosa Canina L. Rich in antioxidants and minerals, rosehip has been used since prehistoric times. Findings in the pile-dwelling settlements near here – built between 5000 and 500 BCE – suggest it was often made into jam.
Purple Loosestrife – Lythrum Salicaria
Grasses on the Waterfront The Frauenwinkel nature reserve is a reed and marsh belt on the western shore of the Obersee.
Rooftop I love these traditional buildings, with their half-timbered decorations, shingled roofs, and domed towers.
Passing Train This part of the path runs parallel to the Seedamm; even though we can see the traffic there, we feel miles away.
Tiny Spider
European White Water Lily – Nymphaea Alba
Walkway The path to the towns of Hurden and Pfäffikon is smooth and easy to walk.
Common Honeysuckle – Lonicera Periclymenum We could be miles from anywhere, …
Cosmos on the Fence … but the railway line is right there, behind a light fence.
Walkway Geometry Our walk takes us across the Hurden ship canal.
Young Man on A Swing The water of the canal sparkles as a young man takes advantage of a swing here, …
Into the Water … and launches himself into the green.
Grasses
Bridge from the Train Rather than walk back, we take the train from Pfäffikon back to Rapperswil. On the Seedamm we can look back at the bridge we’ve just crossed.
It was a beautiful walk –
– almost as enjoyable as the cake and coffee we treated ourselves to afterwards!
Boomerang Beach Australia is home to endless beautiful sandy beaches, framed by dramatic bluffs of ancient rock. Here at Boomerang Beach on the Mid North Coast of NSW, the winter waters are pristine, and the views south are clear to the lighthouse on Sugarloaf Point.
There is something moody and dramatic about coastal beaches in wintertime that leads me to quiet introspection.
I’ve commented before (eg: Coastal Walks) on the rugged beauty of the east coast of Australia. I live within a ten minute walk of a beautiful beach and stunning headlands. I listen to the waves of the Pacific roll in – or roar in, depending on the ocean’s mood – every night before sleeping, and visit regularly on my morning walks.
But I guess I take it for granted! I almost never take my cameras with me, and seldom even take pictures with my phone.
When I am away from home, however, I treat my surroundings differently.
Some winters ago, I had the chance to stay on the Mid North Coast of New South Wales in the tiny resort community of Pacific Palms. It was the early days of Covid-19: there was still panic about the spread and no vaccine had yet been developed. Masks were mandatory and the few tourist accommodations open were operating under strict guidelines.
This normally bustling holiday destination was almost deserted: it was the middle of winter, and Sydney – some three-and-a-half hours south – was in another complete Covid-19 lockdown. In order to reach the Mid North Coast from my home on the Far South Coast, I had to skirt wide to avoid the Sydney embargo.
But, it was worth it!
Pacific Palms is partially surrounded by the beautiful Booti Booti National Park, which itself occupies a narrow peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and Wallis Lake. The quiet, almost deserted beaches that are at every turn in this area were a balm for the cabin-fever I had been experiencing. Most days, my phone (my old iPhone6) and I went for morning and evening walks to the nearby Elizabeth Bay; one day we drove the twenty minutes north to the coastal town of Forster for some restaurant meals and window shopping; and another day we spent the afternoon driving between points of interest in the Myall Lakes National Park, just twenty minutes south.
Join me for some quiet beach walks:
Elizabeth Beach Overcast skies and morning sea mists over Booti Hill make for a quiet morning on an empty beach.
Ferns and Wet Ground My accommodation in Pacific Palms was bounded by Booti Booti National Park. One morning I followed the bush track through to the beach. As beautiful as it was, it was was soggy underfoot: saturated from all the winter rains. My shoes ended up sodden and I didn’t walk that particular track again!
Waves in the Morning Most days I ended up on the same stretch of beach twice; …
Waves at Sundown … but even though the setting was the same, the waves and light were different.
Where the Forest Meets the Sea The plants in the forest decompose very slowly, releasing tannins and lignins into the ground; the heavy winter rains run this mineral-rich yellowy- brown colour into the waters over the beach.
Almost Abstract : Patterns in the Sand
Afternoon over Boomerang Beach and Charlotte Head Every few kilometres there is a new beach and another bluff.
Treasure Flowers – Gazania Rigens I love the low-growing flowers that cling to the sandy soils near beaches.
Slow Down! Seal Rocks Ahead! It was a short drive south to Myall Lakes National Park and the popular waters and beaches at Seal Rocks.
Rugged Coast through the Trees The beaches and headlands stretch off to the north, undulating like a bowl of ripple chips.
Waves on Number One Beach The waters rolling in from the Pacific here are beautiful, and every time I looked, they changed colour.
Beach Chairs With their Esky and their beach chairs friends enjoy front-row seats on the mighty Tasman Sea.
Young Couple It might be the middle of winter, but the afternoon sun has just enough warmth for the young and brave to sport their swimming costumes.
Riding the Waves The rocky break-water here makes this a safe area for beginning surfers.
Sliding Home
Down to the Beach The afternoon light drops quickly; …
View North to Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse … by the time we drive a short way south to Mungo Beach, the shadows on the landscape are long …
Afternoon Waves … and the water is dark.
Sparkly Beach Morning Back on Elizabeth Bay the next morning …
Almost Abstract : Sand Patterns … I am again entranced by the patterns left in the sand by the retreating tide.
A Curve of Beach
Still Life Found : Flotsam and Foam I love the art that nature makes!
Storm Clouds My last morning at Elizabeth Beach was even wetter than many of the days before.
You take your chances with weather when you travel – and even more so in an east-coast Australian winter. There certainly was a lot of rain during my week on the Mid North Coast!
But, I had good books and my computer with me, and a warm, comfy room to snuggle into. I’m a walker, not a swimmer, so the inclement weather didn’t keep me indoors all day. Plus, rains wash the landscape, and can make beaches more interesting.
Still, the storm clouds on my final morning made me glad to point the car back home!
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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It is a stark, but beautiful landscape; this imposing gorge is well worth exploring.
