Outdoor mural featuring First Nation peoples, Chemainus, BC

Mural #12 – Native Heritage – Chemainus First Nations
Named for a legendary chief, the town of Chemainus, in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island‘s east coast, has a rich First Nation cultural heritage.
Painted in 1983 by Paul Ygartua, Vancouver, B.C.

Do you remember The Little Engine That Could? The story about the little blue engine who took on a job that was far too big, but through positive self talk (“I-think-I-can, I-think-I-can, I-think-I-can”) succeeded in pulling a long train over a high mountain pass?

Well, this is a story about The Little Town That Did.

Once upon a time, nestled between a mountain range and the Salish Sea, in the temperate District of North Cowichan on the east coast of Vancouver Island, there was a small town called Chemainus.

This small town always had a big spirit: it was named for the native shaman and prophet “Tsa-meeun-is” (Broken Chest), who, according to legend, survived a massive wound in his chest before becoming a powerful chief to his people: the Chemainus First Nation.

The rich natural resources of the Cowichan Valley provided all the necessities of life, first to generations of First Nations people, and then to the immigrants who came looking for riches and a better life.

Mining, fishing, and forestry were the original industries in the area, and the port of Chemainus was one of the first ports in the Pacific Northwest. Germans and Scots came to make their fortunes in the mining and lumber industries. Chinese worked in ‘bull gangs’, struggling to move huge lumber planks to the waiting ships. A sawmill was completed in 1862. Then the railroad arrived in the 1880s, bringing more work, and a wave of Japanese and East Indian labourers.

Life was good, and the people believed the riches would last forever.

But, with lumber the only viable industry, the town’s fortunes rose and fell with the price of wood products. By the late 1970’s, MacMillan Bloedel, who owned the mill, estimated losses of more than CD$15M in a two year period. The town was on its last legs.

Fortunately, Chemainus was still home to people with strong spirit and big vision. Using a grant from a provincial redevelopment fund, community leaders and a young Mayor Graham Bruce agreed to a proposal from local German immigrant Karl Schutz. Since the early 1970s, Schutz had been promoting the idea of having large, outdoor murals painted around the town. In 1982, the time was right and the first five murals were completed.

The next year, the mill, which had operated off and on for 120 years, closed for the last time.

But, the people of the Cowichan Valley didn’t lose hope. The Festival of Murals Society had been established, local and international artists had been commissioned, and the beautiful murals – all portraying local life, heritage, and history – were on track. The little town of Chemainus had put itself back on the map – this time as a popular tourist destination.

A horse-drawn carriage driven by a woman through Chemainus streets, BC, Canada

Tourist Transport
Tour operators take visitors around the murals by horse-drawn carriage or by small steam train. During high season, locals dress in period costume to enhance the visitor experience.

A Subway shopfront painted in with a mural on wooden housing, Chemainus, BC

Mural #11 – Temporary Homes
Even chains get the local treatment!
Painted in 1983 by David White, Nassau, Bahamas

A ladies wear store in and old school building, Chemainus BC

Mural #18 – Julia Askew – first child of European ancestry born in Chemainus (February 22, 1871)
An old school house gets a new treatment as a boutique fashion store.
Painted in 1986 by Elizabeth Smily, West Vancouver

Mural: Painting of JA Humberg and HR MacMillan on a Chemainus building, BC Canada

Mural #31 – 10th Anniversary Mural – The Lumber Barons
JA Humbird (left), mill manager from 1924 and HR MacMillan (right), who bought the mill in 1944.
Painted in 1992 by Constance Greig-Manning, assisted by Bill Manning, Kenilworth, Ontario (now residing in Chemainus).

Laneway in Chemainus, BC, with the story of, and a mural depicting, The Hermit

Mural #36 – The Hermit
Every laneway holds history… This one tells the story of Charlie Abbott, a long-time Chemainus character, who wandered into town in the 1970s and created a garden of paths and trails in the forest nearby. The Hermit Trails are now popular walking paths.
Painted by Paul Ygartua (Vancouver BC) in 2004.

Trinkets for Sale

Trinkets for Sale
Local shops attempt to benefit from the influx of tourists ~ selling a range of trinkets.

Sculpture: an elderly couple on a bench, Chemaianus, BC Canada

Old-Timers on a Bench
Not all of Chemainus’ art-works are murals – a number of sculptures are installed around town.

Mural of a steam train, Chemainus BC

Mural #22 – Leonora Mines at Mt. Sicker (right panel)
Copper was mined at Mt. Sicker from May, 1897 to November, 1908. Today, virtually nothing remains of the once-thriving community.
Painted in 1988 (with additions in 2001) by Peter Bresnen, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Shop fronts, cafe tables and the mural of long-time Chemainus BC resident, Billy Thomas

Mural #13 – Billy Thomas
William Ishmael (Billy) Thomas, was the first male child of European ancestry born (1874) in the Chemainus Valley. He lived there for all of his 102 years.
Painted in 1984 by Sandy Clark, Victoria, BC

A Rope Master pulley in a flower bed, Chemainus BC

Rope Master
Bits of old machinery grace the flowerbeds around town.

Mural #1 - Steam Donkey Hauling logs out of the forest was a difficult and dangerous task. This steam donkey started work in Chemainus in 1885. Painted in 1982 by Frank Lewis and Nancy Lagana, Victoria, B.C, based on a 1902 photograph.

Mural #1 – Steam Donkey
Hauling logs out of the forest was a difficult and dangerous task. This steam donkey started work in Chemainus in 1885.
Painted in 1982 by Frank Lewis and Nancy Lagana, Victoria, B.C, based on a 1902 photograph.

A waterwheel with a painted mural backdrop, Chemaiinus BC

Mural #35 – 20th Anniversary Mural – First Chemainus Sawmill 1862 – Waterwheel Crescent
This waterwheel is a replica of those that powered the early mills. Originally part of the grounds of the mill manager’s house, Waterwheel Park is now open to the public and includes a children’s playground.
Painted in 2003 by Sylvia Verity Dewar, Chemainus, BC, with construction assistance from her husband Russ Dewar.

Mural of an ox team dragging timber, Chemainus, BC

Mural #7 – Logging With Oxen
In the 1890s, oxen were one of the main forms of “power” in logging.
Painted in 1983 by Harold Lyon, Fountain Hills, Arizona

Mural #28 - No. 3 Climax Engine This little steam engine, painted on the side of what was an artist

Mural #28 – No. 3 Climax Engine
This little steam engine, painted on the side of what was an artist’s studio, hauled logs out of the Chemainus Valley in the late 1880s.
Painted in 1991 by Dan Sawatzky, Chemainus, (now Chilliwack, BC).

Mural: Man and woman in farm clothing, Chemainus BC

Mural #26 – Chemainus – The War Years – Circa 1915 (detail)
Farmers watch as soldiers go off to war. By the end of 1915, over fifteen percent of the local population had gone to fight – many never returned.
Painted in 1989 by Susan Tooke Crichton, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Outdoor murals of buildings on Mill St, Chemainus, BC

Mural #19, “Mill Street in 1948”,
Old shops and buildings lead down old Mill Street to the wharfs on Chemainus Harbour.
Painted in 1986 by Mike Svob, Coquitlam B.C

A large stuffed rag-doll sits on a chair, Chemainus, BC

Doll on the Stoop
An old “character” welcomes us to one of many coffee shops.

Mural of a steam train, Chemainus BC

Mural #3 – Steam Train On Bridge Over Chemainus River
Locomotive No. 4 steams across a log bridge over the Chemainus River.
Painted in 1982 by Paul Marcano, Victoria, B.C. (now Chilliwack)

We enjoyed following the yellow foot-prints along the sidewalks as they guided us to the various artworks, and we liked what we saw – but we didn’t get to see all of the forty-plus murals scattered around the town. Part way through the afternoon, the autumn skies closed over, the rains came, and we had to escape back to our car.

I’m not sure if the people of Chemainus will live happily-ever-after.

To the Future (text)

But, they’ve given themselves a new lease of life and determined their own path to the future.

I think that is pretty cool.

Cheers!

Pictures: 28September2012

  • Karl Schutz - June 23, 2015 - 12:04 am

    Hello Congratulation, wonderful, excellent photos.
    Just a correction CHEMAINUS is located in the CHEMAINUS Valley NOT Cowichan !!!
    Karl Schutz Founder CFOM.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 23, 2015 - 3:23 am

      Oh dear! Thanks, Karl – I’ll fix it as soon as I’ve got proper Internet!ReplyCancel

  • Troy Crabbe - July 11, 2015 - 5:01 pm

    my grandfather lived on river road his whole life after fighting in world war two. he also gave back to his community by gardening and leaving a stand for others to have. No money was ask just to take what you need leave some for others. he was an icon of the town. if any honor you would give him some honor for all five boys of his help threw out the town. Frank, Buddy ( Alex), Mike ,Brian, and Ricky crabbe. those who know my family which is all of chemanius for they save many lives. thats my grand fathers book. I am the grand child of Alexander Crabbe. the second chapter of his family the or his book of life. thankyou for your time. God bless my home town and the ones that care.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 11, 2015 - 9:34 pm

      Thanks for your input, Troy! You must be very proud of your grandfather. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Ursula - July 11, 2015 - 9:32 pm

    Hi again Karl,

    I went back to my original sources, and changed my wording to “Cowichan Valley Regional District” as this seems to include Chemainus (http://www.cvrd.bc.ca). I hope that’s ok now! 😀ReplyCancel

  • Shannon Bellamy - August 25, 2019 - 4:49 am

    Hello Ursula – Thank you for writing about our community and our beautiful murals. I note some corrections that should be made. Re your July 11, 20125 post to Karl Schutz, Chemainus is not in the Cowichan Valley Regional District (CVRD), rather it is in the District of North Cowichan, and it is in the Chemainus Valley. Also, we are located in the temperate Chemainus Valley, not as you note at the beginning of your post. Another correction is in #31. It is Humbird, not Humberg, and he is not shaking hands with MacMillan. Mural #13 was painted by Sandy Clark, only. Thanks for making these changes to make your post more accurate.
    Sincerely. Shannon Bellamy, Vice President, Chemainus Festival of Murals SocietyReplyCancel

View of Kylemore Abbey, Galway Ireland

Kylemore Abbey
The ultimate anniversary gift: in 1867 Mitchell Henry, a wealthy London doctor, started building Kylemore Castle for his wife.

It seems like half the North Americans I have ever met have at least a drop or two Irish in them!

Not surprising, I suppose, in view of the continued growth of the Irish diaspora.  Three million people outside Ireland  (a country of less than 5 million internal residents) have legal claim to citizenship, and between 80 and 100 million more have Irish roots.

And those roots – even when well watered down – run deep! When was the last time you were in a city without an Irish pub? When was the last St Patrick’s Day you weren’t surrounded by “the wearing of the green”?

This connection goes both directions. In 1998, following the landmark Good Friday Agreement, which aimed to restore some peace to the island, the Republic of Ireland amended its Constitution. The amendments de-emphasised territory in favour of characterising the Irish nation as a community of individuals with a common identity, and included those beyond national borders “… the Irish nation cherishes its special affinity with people of Irish ancestry living abroad who share its cultural identity and heritage (Article 2, Constitution of Ireland).”

My little bit of Irish ancestry hails (albeit several generations ago – back in the 1840s) from the the Mayo-Galway region. Perhaps that is why, in spite of foul, wet weather, I felt right at home in the rugged west coast of Ireland.

Of course, after ten days of walking in the rain, we were also revelling in having the freedom of movement and shelter from the elements that a rental car brings. But, whatever the reason, we loved our three days in Galway and the wild Connemara region within it.

Here is just a taste of the wild, wild west coast.

View over Galway Bay on an overcast day.

Loch Lurgan or Cuan na Gaillimhe
Looming skies stretched over the beach and water, as we lunched looking south towards Co. Clare, where we had stopped to eat only two days before.

Quirky red pottery animals, Spiddal, Ireland

An Ceardlann (“Must Stop”) Craft and Design Studios
A collection of studios in Spiddal house artist’s ateliers where you can watch weavers, painters, printers, potters, jewellers (and more) at work.

Bicycle in front of the Basket Weaver -Spiddal Craft Centre, Ireland

Bicycle in the Rain
We had to time our runs between shops, as the weather alternated between “raining” and “pouring”.

Red and yellow lifeguard shelter, Galway Bay

“Swim between the Flags”
With the potential for rough seas, the lifeguard shelter is probably necessary. The only swimmers we saw were divers in full wetsuits. Galway Bay is cold!

Stone Fences - Galway Ireland

Stone Fences
The plots of land between the fences are so small, it is hard to imagine what they could be good for!

Wild grasses, Heather and Broom, Galway Ireland

Heather and Broom
The plants look rugged; I guess they have to be to survive in the west winds.

Pile of cut Peat blocks, Connemara

Connemara Peat Pile
Peat farmers have a hard life – but fortunately are blessed with good hearts. My husband dropped his cell phone while I was photographing somewhere around here. What are the odds? A peat farmer found it – in the middle of a grassy nowhere! – and after we realised it was missing and phoned it, we were able to drive back and collect it.

Peat Cart and a pile of cut peat, Connemara, Ireland

Peat Cart

Landscape: Connemara Bog, Ireland

Hills and Bogs
It’s a wild land, with a lot of open space.

Overcast sky over boats moored on low tide, Clifden Galway

Bóthar an Chladaigh
As we drove along the Beach Road, Clifden, to find our accommodation, the light was falling over the moored boats on the low tide.

Row boats pulled up on a boat ramp, Clifden Galway

Clifden Boats
Row boats take shelter at the boat launch.

Green Irish hills and narrow lanes, Clifden

Clifden Roads
The narrow Sky Road winds across rough country.

Fat Cows against an overcast sky, Clifden Ireland

Cows
Gentle-looking bovines watch our passage.

An Irish Currach, upside down on a rocky shore, Galway.

Currach
A traditional Irish row boat sits alone on the rocky shore.

Diamond Hill over wildflowers and grasses, Connemara National Park

Diamond Hill
Rising out of the grasslands and bog cotton, Diamond Hill sits in Connemara National Park.

Wet paving stones lead up Diamond Hill, Connemara National Park

Diamond Hill Trails
Paving stones, dirt paths, and wooden walkways lead up Diamond Hill. Footing was rather treacherous in the rain.

Wooden walkway over a small creek, Connemara National Park

Bridge over Tumbling Waters

View back over the Diamond Hill Trails in the rain, Connemara National Park

Misty Mountains
By the time we got to the top of Diamond Hill it was raining heavily and blowing hard – but it was easy to see how magnificent the view would be on a nicer day.

Connemara Ponies: chestnut cold, grey mare, Connemara National Park

Connemara Ponies
The harsh landscape here has given rise to a breed of hardy but beautiful ponies. This little colt, who is only weeks old, stayed close to his dam.

Yellow-brown frog in very green grass, Connemara National Park

Frog in the Grass

Stone Bridge, Connemara

Connemara Bridge
Back on the local roads, it is like driving through a different time.

Kylemore Abbey, Galway

Kylemore Abbey
Our next stop is the fairytale Abbey, which started life as a private castle in 1871. After changing hands several times, it was bought by the Irish Benedictine Nuns in 1920. Until June 2010, the nuns operated a boarding and day school, with alumni including Indian royalty and Anjelica Huston.

Two Chaffinch on a bench back, Kylemore Abbey, Ireland

Chaffinch (fringilla coelebs)
Birds hang around the coffee shop, hoping for crumbs.

Ornate clock, Kylemore Abbey, Ireland

In the Drawing Room
Part of Kylemore Castle is restored and open to the public.

The Church, Kylemore Abbey

The Church
Margaret Henry, for whom Kylemore was originally built, died in 1874 after contracting dysentery in Egypt. She was 45 – and left behind nine children. Her grief-stricken widower, Mitchell Henry, built the gothic church, a cathedral-in-miniature, in her memory.

Closeup of round-top flowers, Kylemore Abbey

Woodland Walk
It is a pleasant walk around the grounds, surrounded by trees and flowers.

Woman and two children overlooking the lake, Kylemore Abbey.

Family Outing
Some of the trails follow the lake. Others wander up into the surrounding hills.

Stone sculpture "The Connemara Giant"  Recess, Ireland

The Connemara Giant
Conn, Son of the Sea, Built in 1999 by Joyce’s Craft Shop, for No Apparent Reason” in a little town called Recess. (iPhone S4)

David Howley on banjo and Garry O

David Howley and Garry O’Meara
Where else would you finish up a few days of seeing the sights in Galway but in a pub? J. Conneely’s Bar in Clifden is known for its traditional music and these guys were terrific – in fact Garry is Ireland’s Junior Banjo Champion.

text: slainte - good health

Wild, windswept coasts, quirky and original crafts, fairytale castles – beautiful, intelligent Connemara ponies; mountain ranges and piles of peat…

Love stories and stories of loss and hardship – warmhearted, hardworking people, always ready to share a tale, a pint, and a tune.

I’d be proud to call Galway home.

Sláinte – Good Health!

Pictures: 30June-2July2012

  • Gabe Gajdatsy - November 8, 2013 - 7:01 am

    Cool trip it wasReplyCancel

  • Carolyn - December 4, 2013 - 11:49 am

    these photos are beautiful !! xoReplyCancel

    • Ursula - December 4, 2013 - 1:03 pm

      Thanks so much, Carolyn! I’m glad you enjoyed them. 😀ReplyCancel

  • […] our way to Dublin (The Guinness Storehouse), zig-zagging across the country from the Connemara (Glimpses of Galway), stopping at sites from the Michelin Guide that took my fancy along the way […]ReplyCancel

Burmese wooden marionette dancing with a child - Mandalay Marionettes Theatre.

Battle of the Marionettes
Life imitates art at the Mandalay Marionettes Theatre.

It was hot. And dark. And – unless you enjoy clanging discordant pentatonic music – noisy.

It was almost time for the evening performance at the Mandalay Marionettes Theatre. As we filed into the tiny space, a small band played Burmese classics to welcome us.

A burmese man playing a range of cymbals, Mandalay Marionette Theatre.

Welcome Music
The Mandalay Yoke-Soun-Thabin Band plays the musical prelude.

Marionettes for Sale against bambee matting, Mandalay Marionette Theatre

Marionettes for Sale
While waiting for the performance, I amused myself by examining the marionettes on the walls.

Young burmese woman playing a Saung, a Traditional Harp, Mandalay Marionettes.

Saung – Traditional Burmese Harp
The sounds of the saung were much more to my musical tastes! It’s a boat-shaped, sixteen-stringed harp made from padauk (pterocarpus) wood, acia catechu wood, and deerskin.

Young burmese dancer, Mandalay Marionette Theatre.

No Strings!
The first act is a traditional burmese dance –

Portrait: Young burmese dancer, Mandalay Marionette Theater

Burmese Dancer
– performed by a beautiful young child.

White horse : Mandalay Marionette Theatre

The White Horse
According to myth, the Himalayan Range was home to many animals and demons. The horse’s head is the first constellation in Buddhist cosmology.

Himalayan Scene - Monkey King As anyone who has watched the Japanese children

Monkey King
As anyone who has watched the classic Japanese children’s show Saiyūki, or Monkey Magic, knows, the monkey king is ever-present in Buddhist stories –

Himalayan battle Scene, Mandalay Marionettes

Himalayan Scene
– and, amid the crashing and banging of cymbals and gongs, there is bound to be a battle.

Belu Demons Battle Scene - Mandalay Marionettes

Belu Demons Battle Scene
Whew! We have a victor!

Zaw-Gyi, the Alchemist, Mandalay Marionettes

Zaw-Gyi, the Alchemist
Another popular traditional character, the Zaw-Gyi, is a demigod who lives in the forest.

Spinster and Bachelor - Mandalay Marionettes

Comical Dance
Portraying two popular rural villagers, an old bachelor and an old spinster, this was meant to be a humorous and romantic dance. Truthfully, except for the costumes, I couldn’t tell the difference!

Two puppet masters behind a screen, a child and a marionette in front. Mandalay Marionette Theatre

“Anything you can do…”
A marionette watches while a child takes its turn at the dance. I was amused that the child, too, had a puppet-master.

Portrait: an elderly burmese Puppet Master, Mandalay Marionette Theatre

Puppet Master

Prince and Princess marionettes, Mandalay Marionette Theatre

The Prince and Princess
The last piece, about a prince coming home from his studies and introducing his intended to his family, is considered “the most beautiful and sentimental performance”. (Fortunately, we were given programmes; I would never have deduced the story otherwise!)

Four puppet masters behind a screen, four marionettes in front. Mandalay Marionette Theatre

Enter the Clowns
The Prince and Princess are flanked by clowns who are meant to entertain them. The back curtain is raised again, allowing us to watch the puppet masters at work.

Portrait: Elderly burmese Puppet Master and younger woman, Mandalay Marionette Theatre

Watching the Puppet Master
Elderly Puppet Master U Pan Aye clearly takes joy in the dance his Prince is performing.

Female Puppet Master, Mandalay Marionettes Theatre

Female Puppet Master
Soon, it is the turn of the protege to operate her Princess.

Portrait: Puppet Master U Pan Aye

Puppet Master U Pan Aye
After the performance, the Puppet Master comes out to meet the small audience, smiling with pride at our pleasure in his show.

Yoke Thay, traditional Myanmar puppet theatre, dates back several centuries. It was entertainment, held in high esteem by royalty, but also served to communicate news, stories, and moral lessons to everyone. Today, with more modern entertainments readily available, traditional marionette performances are a dying art.

This small troupe in Mandalay is working hard to pass on all the requisite Burmese traditions (dancing, music, sculpture, sequining, embroidery, and painting) that go into keeping all aspects of this folk art alive. Tourists are their life-blood, as they bring their ancient art-form to the world, and once again use it to take part in social welfare and education in local communities.

The Mandalay Marionettes Theatre is specifically aimed at tourists: to give them an insight into ancient Myanmar culture. It was entertaining – but I was glad it only lasted an hour! The subtleties of the different performances escaped me, and the combination of noise, low light, and heat soon had my head pounding.

Golden Temple at night on Mandalay Hill

Temple on Mandalay Hill

I was pleased to escape back to my room, where I could look up at one of the temples on Mandalay Hill, and imagine those earlier days.

To the Future (text)

For, as the marionettes tried to show me, Myanmar is a magic place.

I hope the theatre can help keep Burmese art and culture alive for future generations.

Cheers!

Photos: 16September2012

  • gabe - November 1, 2013 - 11:55 pm

    Pretty cool !!ReplyCancel

  • Dietmut - November 10, 2013 - 4:54 pm

    I enjoyed this series, as usual. I have bought different marionettes on my various travels through India. Great day en greetings, DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 17, 2013 - 12:24 pm

      Thanks for your visit, Dietmut.
      Karl, I’m blushing! 🙂ReplyCancel

  • Karl Grobl - November 17, 2013 - 12:03 pm

    This is the best reportage I’ve seen about the Mandalay Marionettes, bravo on great images and a thorough education about the performance. Can’t wait for your next blog post!ReplyCancel

Topiary orcas, downtown Victoria,

Looking for Whales
The first orcas (killer whales) we see are topiary, in downtown Victoria.

There is something special about whales.

Granted, except for trips to the Vancouver Aquarium many, many, years ago,  I’ve only ever seen bits of whales – a dorsal or a tail or a flipper – as most of their huge bodies stay submerged. I’m still waiting to see a whale breach; I’ve seen some magnificent photos, but when I’m on the water, these giant sea mammals seem to be feeling less playful.

Still, my husband and I love being on the water, and knowing that there might be whales around makes it an extra special treat.

We were extremely lucky last year: we participated in whale-watching tours twice. Once was last October, during the antipodean spring, when humpbacks make their annual migration south – past my home in Eden, NSW – to their summer feeding grounds in Antarctica (Watching Water 2).

The other time was on the opposite side of the ocean, in Canada’s Pacific Northwest, where my brother treated us to a morning of whale watching on the Prince of Whales Ocean Magic II, out of Victoria BC.

It might have been high summer, but weather on Vancouver Island waters can be chancy, cold and wet, so we rugged up warmly before setting out in search of whales.

View of Victoria Harbour, sailboats foreground, the British Columbia Legislature Building in the background.

Sailboats on Victoria Harbour ~
~ with the dome of the British Columbia Legislature Building in the background.

A yellow Zodiak in Victoria Harbour; people in red Mustang Survival flotation suits.

Zodiak
A group of whale watchers in their Mustang Survival flotation suits return from their tour. Our sixty-two foot cabin cruiser was much more sheltered!

Portrait: balding, bearded man with an orange PFD.

Safety Demonstration
Our guide talks us through the niceties and necessities.

Floating Homes on Victoria Harbour, BC.

Floating Homes
Prime real estate on Victoria Harbour.

A Sailboat against blue water and mountains.

Boat in Blue
The water, the sky, the mountains around us – everything is blue.

Landscape: layers of blue hills and mountains around the Salish Sea; Race Rocks lighthouse on a rocky island

Race Rocks
As we approach the eastern entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca in the Salish Sea, the lighthouse at Race Rocks Marine Protected Area comes into view.

Two Harbour Seals on the rocks, Race Rocks, BC.

Harbour Seals
It is hard to ignore the appeal of those big eyes!

A Bald Eagle sitting, Race Rocks, BC

Bald Eagle

A sea lion on the rocks, Juan de Fuca Strait

Sea Lion
The male sea lions, especially, can be heard and smelled long before they can be seen clearly.

People on a boat railing, Race Rocks , BC

Watching Water
The radio says whales have been sighted! We pull way from Race Rocks, and watch the water for signs of movement.

Yellow Prince of Whales Zodiac on the waters of Juan de Fuca, BC

Prince of Whales Zodiac
The zodiak is also on the hunt for cetaceans.

The backs and tails of two killer whales, Juan de Fuca, BC

Orcas’ Tails
Sure enough! We soon sight the backs of two killer whales – part of a small pod of transient orcas.

Small pod of transient orcas, Race Rocks, BC

Orcas on the Hunt
Transients, one of at least three distinct species of killer whales, travel in small, loosely organised pods. They are deadly hunters and eat other mammals.

Killer whales hunting, Juan de Fuca, BC

Killers
Circling like sharks, the pod have found a seal or some other animal. The blood is faintly visible on the water.

Alpine whale-watching cruiser, whales and a cargo ship, Juan de Fuca Strait,

Alpine Cruiser
One of the other whale-watching boats is well placed to witness the struggle.

Humpback Dorsal fin and back, Juan de Fuca Strait, BC

Humpback Dorsal
For the longest time, it looked like a lump of log on the water – but no, it is a humpback whale. Unfortunately she’s feeling no more playful than the killers ~

Half a humpback tail, Juan de Fuca Strait, BC

Humpback Tail
~ and we have to make do with a half-hearted tail wave before she sounds.

View of Victoria

Coming into Port
Too soon it is time to return to the harbour…

Victoria BC

Victoria
… of Vancouver Island’s garden city.

Ocean Magic docked, Victoria BC

Ocean Magic
Our boat pulls back into her berth.

Victoria Harbour Authority sign

Victoria Harbour Authority
The killer whale is an integral part of First Nations’ culture, and is regularly represented in local art.

Sail boats moored on Victoria Harbour. BC.

Boats on the Harbour
The skies are considerably bluer than when we set out in the morning!

Harbour Seal under water, Victoria BC

Harbour Seal
The beautiful weather brings people out to the waterfront to watch the harbour seals.

Portrait: Harbour Seal, Victoria Harbour, BC

Harbour Seal
One seal knows that where there are humans, there is likely to be an easy feed –

People on a wharf, Feeding a harbour seal, Victoria BC

Feeding the Seal
… and sure enough, people feed it with fish bought especially for that purpose.

Text: Safe SailingOne day, I’ll get that elusive photograph of a whale breaching…

But in the mean time, I’m happy just to be on and around the water.

Safe Sailing!

Pictures: 27August2012

  • gabe - October 24, 2013 - 7:06 pm

    Yes one day we will see A breachReplyCancel

  • Thomas - October 31, 2013 - 5:26 pm

    Great photos. Next time we’ll order a breaching whale!ReplyCancel

Street scene: a burmese woman with a load of yellow chrysanthemums, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Yellow Light
Yellow chrysanthemums, ready for sale as offerings to Buddhist temples and home shrines, reflect their colour back on their vendor.

Our private tour bus pulled over on a nondescript patch of road, somewhere between Mandalay and Pyin Oo Lwin. It seemed a quiet spot, with broken-down-looking vehicles parked at the side, and bamboo shop-fronts sitting back from the earthen verge.

Old Jeep
Parked on the side of the “highway”, an old jeep looks almost abandoned.

Ten photographic-tour participants, photographer Karl Grobl and Burmese guide Mr MM piled out of the vehicle, and onto the dirt at the side of the road.

For a moment, everything was still…

But, behind the huts and trees that lined the highway was another road, where Pyin Oo Lwin’s busy mobile morning flower market was taking place.

Because of its altitude (1070 meters – 3510 feet) and temperate climate, Pyin Oo Lwin was established as a hill station and summer capital during British colonial rule. The weather, perfect for growing fruit, vegetables and especially flowers, means that the popular resort town is sometimes called Pan Myo Daw, “The City of Flowers“.

Portrait: Smiling Burmese woman in a black and white checkers shirt,  Pyin Oo Lwin Flower Market, Myanmar.

Flower Seller
Huge bundles of neatly tied …

Portrait: Burmese man with a beetle-nut stained mouth, carrying purple chrysanthemums, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar.

Beetlenut Bearer
… and carefully balanced chrysanthemums …

Flower Street

Flower Street
… are transported by foot…

Two burmese men talking in Pyin Oo Lwin flower market, Myanmar

Market Chat
… and …

A large bundle of yellow chrysanthemums on the back of a motorcycle at the Pyin Oo Lwin Flower Market, Myanmar

Yellow Chrysanthemums
… by motorcycle.

Flowers are a central part of burmese life. Everyday, freshly cut flowers are offered to the Buddha at household and business shrines and in temples and pagodas.

These flowers are grown in the cooler hills and transported to the markets daily by truck and by motorcycle. At the morning flower markets, chrysanthemums, asters, gypsophila (baby’s breath), and weeping goldsmith flowers (padeign gno in Burmese), in purple, pink, white, cream and yellow are on sale. Yellow flowers, the colour of gold, are particularly auspicious as offerings.

Close-up: a mass of yellow buds and blooms, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Yellow
Gold is the colour of auspicious offerings.

Busy street scene: burmese man on a motorcycle with pink chrysanthemums, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Flower Delivery
Light and dark contrast sharply – even this early in the day –

Flower market scene: burmese woman walking away with a bundle of chrysanthemums, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Woman in the Midst
– as the crowd buys, sells and trades the various blooms.

It is early morning, but already the light angles in sharply, creating dapples and strong shadows as the trucks, buses and bikes, laden with bundled blooms, continue into town.

Blurred panning shot of an old local bus, piled full of people, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Local Bus
Locals are piled into old buses which trundle through the street …

Panning shot of a burmese man in a helmet and longhi on a motorcycle with a large bundle of flowers, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Transporting Flowers
… as the flowers keep coming …

Street scene: Burmese people crowd along side a road, as a motorcycle laden with white chrysanthemums drives away, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Street Scene
… and going.

Hands of a burmese person at Work tying up a bundle of flowers, Pyin Oo Lwin,

Hands at Work
Even while they chat and laugh, people in the market are busy at work.

Portrait: a young burmese with a small smile and a flower, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Shy Smile

Close-up: a Pink Aster bloom against brown shreds, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Pink Aster

Portrait: a burmese woman in thanakha powder carries a large bundle of purple flowers, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

A Woman and her Bouquet

Street scene: a burmese woman ties up a large bundle of flowers, Pyin Oo Lwin, Myanmar

Bundling
Having finalised her purchases, a woman ties up her blooms ready for the ride home.

While I was fact-checking for this blog, I came across a delightful post from a gardening enthusiast who visited the same markets two months after we did; The Frustrated Gardener is well worth a look.

My group and I, however, had to leave. We were heading off to visit some of Pyin Oo Lwin’s colonial splendours.

But, the next day as I wandered around Mandalay, I was very aware of the fresh flowers at the shrines and local temples.

White Chrysanthemums Inside a Buddhist temple, Mandaly

Chrysanthemums in the Temple

Bronze vases of yellow asters around the buddhist shrine at a  Mandalay business, Myanmar

Yellow Asters at the Workplace

Text: Keep smilingIt made me think about the love and work that goes into these cheerful and environmentally-friendly offerings.

It’s enough to make you smile!

Happy Travels.

Pictures: 16September2012

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