Sunflare over Koules Fortress, Heraklion, Greece

The Greek Flag on the Venetian Fort
This is Crete: blue skies, a killer September sun, and layers of history everywhere you look!

Perfect weather, fabulous food, and historical and natural sites galore: Crete was an absolute joy to visit.

I was staying in the hills outside the island’s capital of Heraklion/Iraklio, and had no difficulty filling my days with fascinating day trips (see: Weekly Wanders Crete). Towards the end of my week, I decided to explore closer to home, and took the shuttle into the old port. I had pre-booked myself one of those Hop-on, Hop-off buses, to facilitate my access to the main sights downtown – although I probably didn’t need it.. 

I started the day in the old port, making my way across the waterfront around the ancient Venetian harbour to my first pick-up point – hopping off the bus again to explore sections of the old city walls and to enjoy a traditional lunch and Greek coffee at a sidewalk cafe. 

The bus circuit took me past the Palace of Knossos, which I had already visited (see: The Minotaur, Mythology, and an Ancient Palace). I alighted again back in town, and headed for the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. I took longer than I had expected to admire the wonderful collection there and have written separately about the truly breathtaking 4000 year-old arts and artefacts from the Minoans on display (see: Modern Art from an Ancient Culture). 

It was definitely time for a break, and I made my way through the heart of the old town to the historic Morozini Fountain and found a seat at another cafe for more coffee and some people-watching.

My last stop before finding the return shuttle to my accommodation was back on the waterfront, where I explored the Venetian fort, alternately known as Koules Fortress, Rocca a Mare Fortress, or Castello a Mare (“Castle on the Sea” in Italian).

Join me for a walk around the vibrant seaport of Heraklion.

Historical wooden boat on the grass, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Wooden Boat on the Waterfront
The old Venetian port is an eclectic mix of ancient and modern: considered a historical landmark, an old wooden boat sits in the green space near the marina.

Man looking after a souvenir stand, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Souvenir Shop
Nestled in the breakwater near my first bus stop, vendors take advantage of the countless tourists that walk the waterfront.

Koules Fortress, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Koules Fortress
Built in the 16th-century, Koules Fortress stands as monument to Heraklion’s Venetian past.

Section of the Venetian walls, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Venetian Walls
I hopped off the bus a short distance away from the waterfront – along the western edge of the fortified walls built around the old centre by the Venetians in the 16th century.

Inscription over the Jesus Gate – Kenourgia Porta – New Gate
The year here is 1580, and I think the inscription honours John Mocenigo, the Proconsul (Governor) of the city-state at that time.

Bricks and arches in the Venetian walls, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Old Bricks and New Growth
Heraklion’s walls, armaments, and other fortifications, were designed by military architect and urban planner, Michele Sanmicheli (1484-1559) of Verona. Although requiring repairs after earthquakes, age, and modern warfare, the walls withstood against the second longest siege in history – finally falling to the Ottomans after 21 years in 1669. The sections  that remain today are still impressive.

View from the Wall
From the top of the wall, you can see where the old city meets the new.

Bricks and arches in the Venetian walls, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Tunnel in the Wall

Madonna sculpture, Renaissance Park, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Madonna Sculpture
Renaissance Park is nestled into a triangle of space at the base of the old wall.

Madonna sculpture, Renaissance Park, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Mother and Infant
I could find no information about this intriguing modern sculpture.

Fountain of the Tekke of the “Three-Men Order” (Üçleria)
On the other hand, the 18th century ablution fountain in Renaissance Park has numerous names: for example, it has been called the Fountain of the Joint (The Hookah Lounge) and the Ottoman Fountain of the Tekke (a monastery of Dervishes).

Holy Church of Agios Andreas, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Holy Church of Agios Andreas
Across the road, we jump ahead a century or two, …

Brass bell, Holy Church of Agios Andreas, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Church Bell
… to a little Greek Orthodox chapel.

Marble bust of a man, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Bust of a Local Dignitary
Some of the public art is identified only in Greek, so I have no clue!

Arched doors into the Venetian Wall near the Kainouria Porta, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Doors in the Wall near the Kainouria Porta
While they are called the Venetian Walls, original sections (mostly lost now) were built by the Byzantines who occupied the area for hundreds of years before the Venetians arrived. Subsequently, sections were replaced by the Turks.

Hercules and a winged lion on the Venetian Wall near the Kainouria Porta, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Hercules – Heracles
There are different stones and details everywhere you look. Heraklion is named for Hercules, who reputedly came to Crete to perform the seventh of his labours. He is honoured in the walls near the Kainouria Porta – the New Gate.

Traffic through Chania Porta, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Gate Pantocrator – Chania Porta
Although there are only four arched city gates (portals) through the old walls, they all took on different names over the years, making it feel like there are many more!

Morozini Fountain, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Morozini Fountain
Much later, back in the centre of the city, I go in search of the city’s famous fountain. In the middle of Eleftheriou Venizelou Square – more commonly known as Lions Square – is the marble fountain built in 1629. Its purpose was to bring water from the mountains into city; its four lions are an enduring symbol of Venetian power.

Arches inside the Municipal Gallery, Heraklion Crete Greece.

The Municipal Gallery
The civic buildings combine …

Arched window, the Municipal Gallery, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Reflections in an Arched Window
… classic elegance …

Modern cube installed in an arched cubby, the Municipal Gallery, Heraklion Crete Greece.

Municipal Art
… with modern interpretations.

Exterior: Church of Agios Titos, Heraklion, Crete Greece.

Church of Agios (Saint) Titos
The Cathedral of Saint Titus (Hagios Titos) was originally built as a mosque in 1869, and was converted to an Orthodox Church in 1925. It is dedicated to dedicated to the apostle Titus, the first bishop of Crete.

Detail: candles in the Church of Agios Titos, Heraklion, Crete Greece.

Candles in the Church
The interior is dark, and smells of smoke and incense.

Interior: Church of Agios Titos, Heraklion, Crete Greece.

Inside the Church of Agios Titos
Ornately carved wood surrounds the Christian icons at the altar.

Koules Fortress, Heraklion, Greece

Koules Fortress
Back at the waterfront, I make a visit to the Castello a Mare – known today by its Turkish name of Koules. Built on the site of previous fortifications, this Venetian fortress was finished in 1540.

Inside Koules Fortress, Heraklion, Greece

Inside Koules Fortress
The complex seems incredibly solid – although it has recently undergone extensive renovation, so who knows what is original and what isn’t!

View over the inside of Koules Fortress, Heraklion, Greece

From the Battlements
The interior is quite plain, but the battlements afford unencumbered views …

View over Heraklion from Koules Fortress, Greece

Boats on the Harbour
… in all directions – especially over the marina and city.

Greek flag over Koules Fortress, Heraklion, Greece

Flag on the Walls

Inside Koules Fortress, Heraklion, Greece

Old Stones
The fort was armed with cannons in 1630.

View from inside Koules Fortress over the promenade, Heraklion, Greece

Looking out Old Windows
Today, windows look out over the two kilometre (1.2 mile) promenade that serves as a recreational sea walk and a functional break-water.

White tourist train, Heraklion waterfront, Crete, Greece

Tourist Train
Back on the waterfront, I spotted the charming little train that circuits the old city.

Red schooner on Heraklion Harbour, Crete Greece.

Pirate Ship in the Harbour
Crete’s location in the middle of the Aegean Sea, within striking distance of both Europe and Anatolia, has made it attractive to pirates over the years. In the ninth century, it became home to Arab Moors from Spain, who made Heraklion (Chandax) the principal base of what has been called a Pirate Emirate. The celebrated Barbary corsairs, brothers Aruj and Chayrad’din, collectively known as the Pirate Barbarossa, were regular visitors to the city, and reputedly had hideouts nearby. Today, modernised ‘pirate ships’ serve as tourist boats.

Heraklion Lighthouse, Crete Greece.

Heraklion Lighthouse
My last impression, as I leave the city, is of the lighthouse at the end of the seawall that shelters the old Heraklion harbour.

The city is truly a wonderful mix of old Venetian and Ottoman elements …

Text: Happy Travels… with just enough modern Cretan influences – and good Greek food and coffee!

Pictures: 09September2022

Lights, flames, Hindu priests, and lay-people crowded onto Har Ki Pauri ghat after dark, Haridwar, India

Har Ki Pauri
Every night on Har Ki Pauri – one of the most sacred ghats in Haridwar – the magnificent Ganga Aarti is performed.

The Ganges River, known more commonly as the Ganga Mata (Mother Ganges), is revered in Hindu worship and culture. More than just a river, she is the embodiment of a goddess whose purity cleanses one’s sins: bathing in her waters releases the faithful from samsara, the endless cycle of death and rebirth.

All along the banks of this long river, from the source at Gaumukh in the Himalaya, to the mouth on the Bay of Bengal, Hindu faithful seek to bathe in the waters to rid themselves of sins. They also pay their respects to the Mother, making offerings or pujas (ceremonial worship), and often carry water home again in copper pots for use in rituals. When loved ones are dying, it is customary  to place a few drops of Ganga water in the mouth of the departing. 

Some places along the river’s long banks have additional spiritual significance – and one of these is the ancient holy city of Haridwar. There, whole temples are devoted to the worship of the river/Goddess, and an aarti to her is performed twice a day – at sunrise and sunset.

An aarti (arti or arati) is a Hindu ritual employed in worship, often part of a puja, in which light is ritually waved in veneration of deities. This light – usually in the form of a flame – symbolically removes rātrī, or darkness. The evening Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri, one of the most sacred ghats in Haridwar, involves a number of priests addressing the Mother and leading prayers and chanted mantras in reverence. They blow conch shells, ring bells, bang brass cymbals, and wave lighted multi-tiered brass lamps, all in a traditional ceremony which lasts about 45 minutes.

I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh; they got us into a great vantage point across the water from the aarti. I was as much impressed by the welcoming friendliness of the people around me as I was by the ritual on the opposite shore.

Join me for some environmental portraits from the ghats in Haridwar.

Haridwar street, India

Haridwar Street
It is a short walk from our hotel to the ghats on the Ganges.

Man in a jewellery store, Haridwar, India

Jewellery Salesman
Our walk takes us through narrow lanes with brightly lit stores selling jewellery in gold and semi-precious stones.

Environmental portrait: Young Indian woman in front of a gold shop, Haridwar.

Young Woman in the Gold

Indian women in front of a gold shop, Haridwar.

Women in the Street
Many of the pilgrims I meet have travelled a long way; they gather outside the shops to admire the jewellery – and possibly add to their collection of bangles.

Environmental portrait: Man in an embroidered felt cap, Haridwar, India

Man in a Cap

Walkers on the Shiv Setu Bridge over the Ganges, Haridwar, India

Bridge over the Ganges
We walk across the Shiv Setu bridge to get to our vantage point on the opposite bank.

Yellow and orange flowers on the Ganges, Haridwar India

Flowers on the Water
Flowers are swept away underneath us. Any time of day or night, people say prayers and offer gifts to the Ganga Ma.

Hindu Priests with a tray of fire, Har Ki Pauri Haridwar India

Hindu Priests on Har Ki Pauri
It is still early – the aarti takes place at sunrise and sundown – but the ghat is already a hive of activity.

Hindu Priests on the Steps of Har Ki Pauri Haridwar India

Priests on the Steps
With spectators either side on the stairs of the ghat, the priests launch into their litany of chanted prayers.

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian woman, Haridwar India

Woman in Red
Our side of the river is quite crowded, but everyone is in a good humour …

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian woman, Haridwar India

Woman and her Husband
… and there are plenty of smiles to welcome the strangers in their midst.

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian woman, Haridwar India

Women in the Crowd

Crowd on the ghat opposite Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar, India

Worshipers on the Ghat
As the light falls, our ghat becomes quite crowded.

Crowd on the ghat opposite Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar, India

“Om Jai Gange Mata”
When the traditional song venerating the Mother Ganges starts, everyone joins in, …

Detail: Hands in the air, Haridwar Ghats, India

“Jai Ganga, Qui Jai”
… throwing their hands in the air with gusto on the chorus.

Environmental portrait: Profile of an Indian woman in prayer, Haridwar India

Prayers to Ganga Ma
The belief that the Ganges is the living embodiment of a Goddess or spiritual Mother runs strong, …

Environmental portrait: Profile of an Indian woman in prayer, Haridwar India

Reverence
… and people offer up their heartfelt prayers to this celestial river.

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian woman, Haridwar India

Woman and her Husband: Reprise
Twilight falls over the crowd on the ghat.

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian woman, Haridwar India

Woman in Brown
All around me, the audience/participants take the time …

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian woman, Haridwar India

Woman in a Colourful Scarf
… to smile and have their pictures made.

Environmental portrait: Smiling Indian girl, Haridwar India

Smiling Girl

Environmental portrait: Indian man in a woolen cap, Haridwar

Man in a Woolen Cap
Once the sun is gone, the temperature cools dramatically.

Environmental portrait: Man in a turban, woman in a dupattā, Haridwar, India

A Couple on the Ghat

Hindu Priests on the Steps of Har Ki Pauri Haridwar India

Priests with Lamps
Fire is central to any aarti: the flames are ritually waved in veneration of the deity – in this case, Ganga Ma.

Hindu priest on a Haridwar ghat with a flame, India

Priest with a Lamp
After the aarti, lighted wicks are are passed around …

Young woman with a lamp, Haridwar, India

Young Woman with a Lamp
… and worshippers pass their hands through the scented smoke …

Woman with an aarti lamp, Haridwar, India

Woman with a Lamp
… and then wave this over their face to receive the purifying blessings, before passing the flame on.

Lights, flames, Hindu priests, and lay-people crowded onto Har Ki Pauri ghat after dark, Haridwar, India

End of the Aarti on Har Ki Pauri
Soon it is dark, and the aarti is finishing up. Scented smoke lingers on the air.

The aarti in Haridwar was completely different from those that I had watched some years prior in Varanasi (see: Light the Darkness and  Life and Death on the Ghats) – a further illustration that worship can be done in any manner, as long as it is mindful.

Until next time, 

Pictures: 18November2013

A minaret of Nizwa Fort against the Hajar Mountains, Oman.

Minaret and Mountains
This is so prototypically Oman: the minaret of Al Qala’a Mosque and the walls of the seventeenth century Nizwa Fort and Souq stands out against the arid and rugged Hajar Mountains.

I spent less than a week in the Sultanate of Oman, an Islamic Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula.

In that time, however, I saw countless forts, castles, and towers (see: Oman’s Fortress Castles and Jabreen Castle). Perhaps this is unsurprising, as the country is called “the land of [a] thousand forts.” These structures – whether in ruins or extensively restored and opened as museums – punctuate the landscape. They rise, solitary, out of rocky hilltops, or blend into sprawling urban complexes.

Nizwa Fort is described as among Oman’s top forts – and is often rated as the number one. It is certainly the most visited – probably in part because it is only two hours away from Muscat, Oman’s capital and most populous city. 

Nizwa is the most important city in Oman’s interior and one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements in the country. It was the centre of the al Julanda dynasty in the 6th and 7th century CE and became known as a spiritual capital. It’s location in an area with water and abundant natural wealth, and at the crossroads of a number of vital trading routes, made it attractive to outsiders.

Hence, the fort.

The very impressive Nizwa Fort was built over a span of 12 years in the 17th century by Sultan bin Saif al Yaruba, the first imam of the Ya’aruba dynasty. The sprawling structure, with its impressive 40 m (31 ft) tower, sits on foundations dating back to the 12th century.

The extensively renovated structure is a popular tourist destination, with historical displays throughout, and magnificent views from the rooftop battlements. I was just as impressed by the traditional souqs (or souks, meaning markets) that surround it at ground-level. There, I got to taste-test freshly-made halwa (literally: Arabic for sweet), and admire the colourful glass lamps and silver jewellery.

Come for a wander:

Close up: dried dates, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Dates in the Souk
Oman is home to more than 250 indigenous varieties of dates: they are the first thing to greet me in the souq.

Environmental portrait: Man in white on a scaffold, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Painter in the Rafters
High overhead, a tradesman pauses to smile for the camera.

Halwa ingredients in transparent containers, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Ingredients
Halwa all starts with the same basic ingredients, …

Displays of halwa, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Sweet Treats
… but ends up in countless forms and flavours.

Environmental portrait: Man in a Kuma, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Salesman in a Kuma
The smiling salesman in his embroidered Omani cap tried to persuade me to take some halwa home; unfortunately, it doesn’t have a very long shelf-life!

Colourful glass and brass lamps, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Omani Lamps in the Market

Close up: bags of yellow and red spice powders, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Spices

Omani man inside the entry to Nizwa Fort, Oman.

Guide at the Entry
My local guide Said waits at the fort entry to provide an informative walk-through.

Two people silhouetted inside the entry to Nizwa Fort, Oman.

Entering Nizwa Fort
It is cool and dark inside the thick walls – a welcome relief from the desert heat.

Sun flare over the walls of Nizwa Fort, Oman.

Sun over Nizwa Fort
It is only mid-morning, but the sun is high and fierce over the curving walls around the courtyard.

View to the mountains from the top of Nizwa Fort, Oman.

Nizwa and the Hajar Mountains
From the top of the fort, the views extend over the plateau in all directions …

View to the entry courtyard from the top of Nizwa Fort, Oman.

View into the Courtyard
… including into the lower levels of the fort itself.

Golden domed gazebo in Nizwa, Oman

Gazebo with a Golden Dome
We also get a good view of the Arabic script decorating the public gazebo in the city below.

Detail: the top of the minaret of Al Qala

Al Qala’a Mosque

Cannon in a tower window, Nizwa Fort, Oman

Cannon
The fort was designed to conduct – and withstand – cannon-based warfare. The original cannons in the tower allowed complete 360-degree coverage across the countryside.

A display of clothing and ornaments, Nizwa Fort, Oman

Women’s Wealth
The heavy and ornate silver jewellery worn by important women signalled their wealth and societal status.

A display of ornaments, Nizwa Fort, Oman

Silver Finery

Information signboard, Nizwa Fort, Oman

Fort Layout
Strategically-place signboards explain the fort’s layout and aspects of it structure. Without my guide, I would have become hopelessly lost!

Museum display rooms, Nizwa Fort, Oman

Arches and Information

Weapons display: Omani Khanjar, Nizwa Fort, Oman

The Omani Khanjar
These curved daggers are traditional weapons that are symbols of pride to the Omani people and part of the men’s national dress.

Museum display: antique coffee pot and bowls, Nizwa Fort, Oman

Antique Dallah Coffee Pot

Date plantation from Nizwa Fort, Oman

Rooftop
From another vantage point, we can see over the walls and into the surrounding date palm plantations.

Inside the walls of Nizwa Fort, Oman.

Into the Walls
From one of the information signs:
“Although the terms ‘fort’ and ‘castle’ are often used interchangeably, they have very different meanings: A ‘fort’ (ga’lah) is a garrisoned military post. A ‘castle’ (hisn) is a fortified building or group of buildings allocated to administrative or residential use.”
The entrance to the armoury is next to the arched passageway.

Ancient well, Nizwa Fort, Oman.

Ancient Well
A reliable source of water is crucial to any fortified building.

Tented market shop, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Tented Shop
Back in the souq, everything has a Bedouin flavour.

Hanging pottery lamps, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

Pottery Lamps
These pottery lamps were everywhere in Oman.

Inside a shop, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

In the Shops
The many shops in the souq are a treasure-trove of craft and artistry – and a respite from the heat and glare outside.

Pottery shops, Nizwa Souq, Oman.

In the Souk
Fortunately for me, everything was too heavy or too fragile for my suitcase, and I escaped without purchases.

Well, without purchases except for dates and halwa; …

Sign-Off-Happy-Shopping… and I didn’t have to carry those home!

Until next time.

Photos: 24October2019

Looking down over Ghandruk in the rain, Nepal

Village in the Mist
Ghandruk is a charming Gurung village in Nepal’s Modi Khola Valley. The usually stunning Annapurnas are hiding in the background, behind the rain and mists.

I was distressed to hear about the earthquake in Nepal earlier this month (3 November 2023): multi-storied brick houses in the remote, mountainous districts of Jajarkot and West Rukum collapsed after the 6.4 magnitude (USGS) quake, burying whole families in the rubble.

This beautiful country has had a special place in my heart since my first trekking trip there many years ago. My last visit was in March of 2017. Although that was almost two full years after the previous major earthquake – the Gorkha earthquake of April 2015 – the wreckage of that disaster could still be seen everywhere, and rebuilding was taking place slowly. The Gorkha quake was much more destructive than this November one – at least in part because it was in more built-up and populated areas, destroying homes and precious heritage temples all around the Kathmandu Valley. Even so, the thought of the lives lost and the extra hardships visited on the people affected by this most recent natural disaster as we come into a northern winter gives me pause.

On my 2017 trip to the country, I spent some time walking in the Kathmandu Valley (see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: Kathmandu Valley Rim) before participating in a photography workshop with the delightful Gavin Gough. After the workshop, my husband joined me, and a group of us undertook a slow circuit trek in the Annapurnas under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa.

On the penultimate day of our trek, we set off early from Tadapani, and travelled east towards the traditional Gurung village of Ghandruk. Although this portion of the Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek is rated as relatively easy, and is mostly downhill, I wasn’t the only one feeling my joints and my age. It was our fifth day of walking, and much of it had been through rain. I was happy to pace slowly, and thrilled to stop for an early lunch in the tiny hamlet of Bhaisi Kharka (see: One Enchanted Morning).

Sometimes it is easier to enjoy walks when revisiting the old photos! The foot-sore fatigue and insidious rain are all but forgotten when I look once again at the beauty of those hardy people and distant landscapes.

Join me in and around Ghandruk.

Locals and trekkers in the courtyard, Bhaisikharka Nepal

In the Courtyard
We had stopped for early lunch in the hamlet of Bhaisi Kharka, where Gavin chatted with the locals …

Environmental portrait: toddler with an iPhone, Bhaisikharka Nepal

Child with a Phone
… and watched as a young child played with his phone.

Red rhododendron flower floating in a rocky stream, Bhaisikharka Nepal

Flower in the Stream
We are surrounded by the famous Himalayan forests of rhododendron trees. The spring blooming season is coming to an end, and flowers drop from the tall trees around us and into the waters rushing past.

Steep little waterfall, Ghatte Khola, Bhaisikharka Nepal

Waterfall
The mountain waters – in what is probably the Ghatte Khola – rush down the rocks in a steep fall …

Stone steps and waterfall, Ghatte Khola, Bhaisikharka Nepal

Steep Stairs
… and narrow stone steps follow beside them. We are gradually dropping down in altitude; watch your footing!

Tibetan prayer flags in the forest, Ghatte Khola, Bhaisikharka Nepal

Prayer Flags
Tibetan prayer flags bless the surrounding countryside and colour our path.

Detail: Mossy steps, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Mossy Steps
I can’t help but wonder how long these mountain paths have been in use …

Winding path of steps, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Stone Steps
… as they wind off around the mountainside.

Mossy twisted tree trunks, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Twisted Trees
It is like being in the enchanted forests that populate old fairy tales! The mossy tree trunks bend and twist around us in the damp.

Red rhododendron bush, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Wild Rhododendron
This is the land of the lali gurans (lali guras), Nepal’s national flower, the red rhododendron. Some are still blooming in the dense forest around us.

Buffalos grazing, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis) Grazing
Nepal relies on buffalo, which contribute more than half the milk and over one-third of the country’s meat production.

Wood pile outside a brick house, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Wood Pile
Winters are long and hard: in the absence of reliable electricity, these remote areas still depend on wood for heating and cooking.

Broken window in a plastered brick wall, Bhaisikharka to Ghandruk, Nepal

Broken Window
I love the colours and textures – and have to wonder how long it has been since this actually operated as a store!

Looking down across Ghandruk in the rain, Nepal

Ghandruk in the Rain
The heavy mists have developed into full-on rain. As we round the corner to Ghandruk, most of the village disappears into cloud.

Small ponies on the path out of Ghandruk, Nepal

Ponies and Donkeys on the Path
Closer to the village, we share the wet cobbles …

Small ponies on the path out of Ghandruk, Nepal

Pack Animals at Work
… with trains of ponies and donkeys.

Environmental portrait: old Gurung woman in the rain, Ghandruk, Nepal

Old Gurung Woman
The local people seem unconcerned by the rain; on the other hand, we are coated in plastic!

Mountain dog on a stone wall, Ghandruk, Nepal

Mountain Dog in the Rain
From time to time we meet variations on the beautiful Tibetan mastiff.

Metal cups and plates on a shelf, Ghandruk Lodge, Nepal

Shiny Kitchen
Later, once I’m in dry clothes, I admire the shiny utensils in the kitchen of our guesthouse.

Gurung woman with mountain gems on a blanket, Ghandruk Lodge, Nepal

Saleswoman
The next morning, we get up from our cosy room to find a saleswoman ready and waiting outside in the courtyard with her beautiful mountain gems. (iPhone6)

Nepali guides, Ghandruk Lodge, Nepal

Our Team
This will be our last day walking, so I make a picture of our wonderful guides and porters. (iPhone6)

Small ponies on the path out of Ghandruk, Nepal

Ponies on the Track
The pack horses are already at work when we set off out of the village. Even though people are becoming more aware of animal welfare, the dainty animals look a bit sad to me.

Environmental portrait: young Gurung child on a rock, Ghandruk, Nepal

Boy on a Rock
The misty rains continue, keeping the mountain range hidden.

Environmental portrait: young Gurung child on a rock, Ghandruk, Nepal

A Cheeky Smile
An impromptu environmental portrait session almost makes up for the weather!

Trekkers at the gate to Ghandruk, Nepal

Leaving Ghandruk
We pause to mark the start of our final leg , …

Looking down across Ghandruk in the rain, Nepal

Fields Below
… as the valley we’ll be descending into beckons in the mists below …

Ponies on a winding track, Ghandruk, Nepal

Ponies on the Path
… and the narrow track winds out in front of us.

Over the course of this portion of our walk, we dropped from about 2548 m (8361 ft) at Bhaisi Kharka to 2012 m (6601 ft) at Ghandruk. It was noticeable in the vegetation around us: almost gone were the rhododendron forests, replaced by expanses of terraced farms.

Text: Happy Walking!

My legs and lungs also noticed the difference in altitude, and were thankful.

Happy Walking!

Photos: 23-24March2017

Landscape: The Bow River at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

The Bow River at Lake Louise
Tall trees, pristine, glacier-fed waters, and magnificent snow-dusted mountains – you can’t beat the Canadian Rocky Mountains!

I’ve had a love of the Canadian Rocky Mountains for as long as I can remember.

In my earliest years in Canada, we lived on the West Coast, where the mountains and Pacific Ocean meet. Then we moved inland, to the foothills of Calgary, where the Prairies stretch out flat in the east forever …  But in the west, on clear days, the Rockies can just be seen.

Every summer, we drove through those magnificent mountains to visit family back on the coast.

I hated the actual trips: my brother and I spent long days wedged into the back seat of an old car that struggled up all the mountain inclines. I suffered dreadfully from car sickness. We overnighted in free, National Parks, campsites. My afternoon task was to hunt for firewood that was invariably covered in spiders, and dinner was usually instant soups or baked beans cooked on a smelly Coleman stove. There were never barbequed steaks or guitar sing-songs near our leaky and too-small tent! Our campsites included dug-in outhouses: none of the amenity blocks, swimming pools, or children’s playgrounds that commercial sites offered. 

But, in spite of all that, I loved those mountains. And, I’ve taken great joy from driving through them more recently in cars that hum like a dream, and overnighting in rooms with electric kettles and running water.

Late May of this year, I was thrilled to be making a road trip into those wonderful mountains, and was particularly pleased with my non-tented accommodation in the charming hamlet of Lake Louise in Banff National Park. It wasn’t exactly the magnificent Fairmont Château Lake Louise, but that gracious old Canadian Pacific hotel was close enough that I hiked out to it to have a rather envious look (see: Walking the Louise Creek Trail).

For my second full day in town, I opted for a shorter, less strenuous walk along the Bow River

As helpful as I  usually find AllTrails, the app failed to warn me that half the track is closed off for five months every year to allow the free passage of bears; this meant that my walk was out-and-back, rather than a circuit. Even so, I enjoyed a relaxing walk along the river – especially as it was all virtually flat.

Ground squirrel, Lake Louise Inn, Banff National Park Canada

Squeaking Columbian Ground Squirrel – Spermophilus Columbianus
I love these little guys! I was hoping this one was leading me to a shortcut through the woods, but I hit the creek, and had to back-track and follow the road into the village in order to find the start of my track.

Rusty metal bridge on the Bow River, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Bow River Rail Crossing
The river is fast and shallow here; it picks up water as it heads east to meet the South Saskatchewan River.

Treetops and snow-topped mountains, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Treetops and Mountaintops
The boreal forest here is home to a number of tree species, with the Douglas fir being the tallest, reaching heights of up to 45 metres (150 feet).

Trail markers, Lake Louise Alberta Canada

A Fork in the Trail
Once I cross the main road, I see the sign I photographed the day before; from here, my track diverges from the Louise Creek Trail and I follow the river south.

Landscape: The Bow River at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Bow River
Tall conifers frame the river …

Chalet in the woods at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Chalet in the Woods
… and shelter the houses and lodges set back just far enough to have magnificent views.

Landscape: The Bow River at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Bridge over the Bow River
There are a couple of bridges along here: this one leads to the Lake Louise Campground.

Landscape: The Bow River at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Island in the Bow
Banff National Park is known for its “golden season” when the deciduous trees, like these nestled in with the conifers, put on their colourful autumn display.

Detail: patchy trunk of a pine tree, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Nature’s Abstracts : Tree Trunk

Narrow path through tall Douglas firs, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Tall Trees
The path is soft underfoot …

Landscape: The Bow River at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Rocky Riverbed
… and the river is never far away.

Path in the woods at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Into the Woods

Landscape: The Bow River at Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Split Stream
The river is still small enough that it is easily diverted around every small patch of higher ground.

New buds on a fir tree, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Nature’s Artworks : Colourful New Growth
The signs of spring are all around.

American robin on a log, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

American Robin – Turdus Migratorius
I kept a look out for bears. The best I could capture was a common robin – and the odd crow.

Information sign, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

“Along the Bow River”
I had hoped – at the very least –   to see some of the birds mentioned on the signboards along the path! They are mostly quite common, but this trip  I saw none of them!

Closure sign, the Bow River Loop, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Seasonal Closure
Not all the signs I saw were good news: when I got to the point at which I was meant to cross the river and return via the other bank, I discovered that this wasn’t going to happen. “Providing bears and other large mammals the ability to move through the valley bottom unimpeded is crucial to their survival.” Fair enough! But I would have liked to have known sooner.

Along the River
So, I returned by way of the same track I had set out on.

Colourful rocks in the Bow River, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Nature’s Palette : Colourful Rocks

American red squirrel in the undergrowth, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

American Red Squirrel – Tamiasciurus Hudsonicus
After a dearth of bears or other large mammals, I was ridiculously excited to spot a squirrel!

American red squirrel in a tree, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

American Red Squirrel – Tamiasciurus Hudsonicus
I stood still, making sounds I thought might be engaging …

American red squirrel in a tree, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

American Red Squirrel – Tamiasciurus Hudsonicus
.. so that I might get a portrait.

Rocks in the Bow River, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

Boulders in the River
I love the colours and textures everywhere!

Lake Louise Visitor Centre, Banff National Park, Canada

Lake Louise Visitor Centre
Before I knew it, I was back at the National Parks’ office.

View through the Timber Wolf windows at mountain tops, Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada

View from the Timber Wolf
No baked beans in a leaky tent for me! I got to enjoy views of those magnificent mountains with my dinner of pasta and wine.

Text: Happy Walking!All in all, a perfect day, really.

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Photos: 28May2023