Looking over the Main Range The Snow Gums Boardwalk at Charlotte Pass allows views over the top of Australia. Snowed-in during the winter, the boardwalk is accessible from early October – when snow still clings to the ground. In summer (January) the meadows here are bright with endemic wildflowers. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
The snows in the Australian mountains departed before I had a chance to ski this year. A warm front came through, and the season finished early. I even missed the opportunity for post-season walks; I often drive down for an annual meeting in October, but this year I had to phone it in.
As I have written before (see: Winter in the Snowy Mountains), Australia’s ski season is short and unpredictable. But, we are grateful to have one at all!
The aptly named Snowy Mountains in southeastern New South Wales are part of the continent’s Great Dividing Range. Being only a short distance from the coast, they attract a lot of precipitation which falls as snow most winters. What we now call the High Country was a summer meeting place for Aboriginal groups for thousands of years. European explorers visited in the early 1800s, and stockmen soon followed, grazing their cattle in the alpine meadows during the summer months. In 1859, gold was discovered at Kiandra (elevation 1,400 m – 4,600 ft). After a winter with heavy snow in 1860, three Norwegians built skis and introduced recreational skiing to their colleagues there. And so, the Australian Kiandra Pioneer Ski Club was founded in 1861 (see: Alpinestartgate) – making it the oldest ski club in the world!
The Snowy Mountains are not very high when compared with mountains around the world; the highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko is only 2,228 metres (7,310 ft). Only the peaks in the main range receive consistent heavy winter snow, and seasons like this year, the light snowpack can disappear early.
To cheer myself up after missing my chance to get on the snow, I’ve taken a deep-dive into some very old photos from seasons past. They are mostly taken on old iPhones – unless I’m wildflower-walking in summer, I don’t usually take the cameras up the hill.
Join me for some distinctive Snowy Mountain views.
Eucalyptus Tree Tops In the Australian mountains and tablelands above 700 m (2,300 ft), beautiful snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) thrive. The new growth in early spring is red; I was once told this is to prevent sunburn in the pure air, but I can’t confirm that. (iPhone5 – 06September2014)
Spring Blossoms Just 30 minutes down the road, the little alpine town of Jindabyne sits at 915 m (3002 ft) and is in a completely different weather zone. Spring has well and truly arrived there while winter still clings higher up. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Raven in a Snow Gum The harsh cry of ravens always tell me I’m high in the Snowy Mountains. The region is home to the little raven and the Australian raven; I can’t tell them apart! (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Snow Gum Bark Snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) are beautiful, slow-growing trees. New bark is smooth with colours ranging from white to grey-brown with pink and yellow hues. It becomes more vibrant when there is a lot of moisture in the environment, and darkens with age, peeling in strips. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Spencers Creek Even in mid-spring, pockets of old snow remain in the cool corners where Spencers Creek and Betts Creek meet. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Heath on the Hill Low shrubs and heath survive under the snow all winter, bursting to life in spring. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Sparkly Snow and Spiky Plants (iPhone5 – 18October2014)
Scarlet Robin – Petroica Boodang On a walk over the off-season ski hills at Perisher Resort, we spot a small Australian robin. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)
From the Track to Blue Cow The Ski Tube used to run all summertime, bringing hikers up to the meadows around Blue Cow. Now that you have to walk up the hill, the off-season resort is almost deserted with only the sounds of nature to be heard. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)
Rocks atop Blue Cow The almost-empty ski resort looks very different with only pockets of snow left. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)
Fencing on Blue Cow At 1900 m (6234 ft), much of Blue Cow is above the treeline, and is exposed to the elements all year round. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)
Gravel Track on Blue Cow The walking track from Mount Perisher to the Blue Cow Ski Resort follows a service road that serves as a rolling green-run in winter. We return to our car the way we came. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)
Spring Snow Fields In winter, you can hear many of the small creeks gurgling beneath the snow; in spring, they rush to life with the snow-melt. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)
Snow in the Gums Some years, there is fresh snow into spring, … (iPhone6 – 06September2017)
Chairlift and Snow Gums … but it is coupled with appalling visibility. Still, with a season so short, you ski in whatever comes! (iPhone6 – 07September2017)
Still Life Found : Snow Gum Trunk (iPhone6 – 08September2017 )
The Weight of Snow Commonly known as snow gums, cabbage gums, or white sally, the eucalyptus pauciflora is a compact tree whose branches twist with the weather. (iPhone6 – 08September2017)
A Scattering of Skiers Pretty Valley is well-named: it is a delightful bowl suited to all levels. (iPhone6 – 08September2017)
Top of the World When I look out over the mountains to the end of snowscape, I always feel like I’m at the top of the world. (iPhone6 – 10September2018)
Wrinkles and Folds I love the endless variations in the trunks of snow gums … (iPhone6 – 12September2018)
New Growth … and the way new shoots sprout in seemingly random places. (iPhone6 – 12September2018)
Historic Lodges in the Gums From one year to the next, the ski runs – and the historic lodges tucked amongst them – look different. (iPhone6 – 23June2019)
Pilatus Gondola You could hike up Mount Pilatus – but the cogwheel train or the Dragon Ride Gondola will get you to the top much faster! Plus, they leave you with breath to explore the area on the 2073 m (6802 ft) Pilatus Kulm.
Switzerland truly has a magical landscape.
And, thanks to a wonderful train system, it’s accessible.
We were staying with friends near Zurich (eg: Swiss Apples and National Day and Lines and Patterns). Thanks to their local knowledge, and their recommendation that we pre-purchase Swiss Travel Passes, we had easy access to daily adventures. Mid-summer, we made a day trip to Lucerne (see: Postcards from Lucerne) and nearby Mount Pilatus, the massif overlooking the city.
Part of a longer range in the Swiss Alps, Mount Pilatus itself is composed of several peaks – the highest of which is Tomlishorn (2,128.5 m – 6,983 ft). Some say the name ‘Pilatus’ came about because Pontius Pilate was buried there – but other mountains make the same claim. Others say it is so named because it looks like the belly of Pilate, lying on his back. The more like story is that the name is derived from “pileatus” (“capped” in Latin), and refers to the clouds that often collect at the top the mountain. It was certainly cloudy the day we visited: obscuring our ability to see upward and over the surrounding peaks, but not diminishing views of the town, lake and valley below.
Like many other summer tourists, we started and finished in Lucerne, taking the cogwheel train up from the designated station at Alpnachstad, and the aerial cableway back down to Kriens. On the hill top (Kulm), we enjoyed the views from the observation deck, lunched outdoors among the mountaintops and crows, and went for a walk in the hanging cloud.
Join me for a visit up Mount Pilatus:
Countryside Everything in Switzerland is easily accessible by train – and the views are lovely.
Lake Lucerne and Pilatus from the Train
Signposts on the Rail Line
Pilatus Cog Rail Car At the Alpnachstad PB railway station, the lower terminus of the Pilatus Railway, we watch the cogwheel railcars climb and descend.
In the Queue It’s a busy summer day, and we have a long wait in the sun for rail tickets.
Child in the Shadows
Over the Valley Soon it is our turn to enter a railcar, and rise high over the valley around Alpnach.
The Railway Rack This is the steepest rack railway in the world, with a maximum gradient of 48% and an average gradient of 35%.
Above Lake Alpnach The lakes and the valley come into view far below as we climb.
Passengers in a Cable Car Higher up, we pass another car on its way back down the mountain; …
Down the Hill … and the rack stretches out behind us as we climb.
Pilatus Peaks The peak of the mountain is steep and jagged …
Down the Valley … and the valley, meadows, and other peaks stretch out below.
Hotel Pilatus-Kulm Built in 1890 and completely renovated in 2010, the historic Berghotel Pilatus-Kulm stands at top of our journey.
On the Observation Deck
Hang Glider Pilatus is a mecca for outdoor activities of all time.
Sneak Peak Clouds roll in around us – but the occasional snow-covered peaks sneak through.
On the Hill We took ourselves out for a walk up the mountainside.
Barbed Wire Part of the mountaintop is home to part of the Swiss radar system used for military and civil aviation. These areas are not open to the public.
Walkers on the Stairs The stairs are steep and the walkways are narrow …
In the Fog … and cling to the mountainside.
Clouds in the Valley
Crows on the Balcony
Train Down The cog railway continues to run up and down the hill.
Alpenhorn On the platform outside the railway terminal, an elderly gentleman plays an alpine horn.
Cow on the Hill
Fräkmüntegg Terminal Ten minutes down the hill, our gondola pauses briefly in another terminal, …
Gondola … before gliding back over the valley …
Gondolas … and into the trees.
The Town Below The cables and supporting towers are overhead against the sky and the town of Kriens comes into view below.
Gondolas Overhead The clouds follow us downhill as we approach our final stop in Kreins.
It’s hard to imagine a bad day in Switzerland.
Even with heavy cloud cover, our visit to Pilatus, that iconic mountain peak towering over the charming city of Lucerne, was a delight.
Misfat Al Abriyeen With a 300-plus-year history of human settlement and agriculture, this is an area known for its incredible mud architecture and its traditional Omanifalaj irrigation system.
Nestled at the foot of the Hajar Mountains are some of the oldest villages in Oman.
This is a rugged, desert region with little rainfall. Settlements could only survive where ground water was available. But, where water was found, it was ingeniously managed. Using a type of irrigation system developed 5000 years ago in Persia, UNESCO-World Heritage Listed water channels in the north of Oman date back to 500 AD.
Called aflaj (plural) or falaj, from the classical Arabic meaning “split into parts”, the system uses gravity to channel water from underground sources or springs and then divides it among community members to support crops and domestic use. This allowed the development of agriculture and gave rise to permanent villages. Watchtowers and forts were built in defensive positions near or overlooking the sharia (distribution point: literally “the clear, well-trodden path to water”) and falaj channels.
My visit to Oman included a walk around Misfat Al Abriyeen (Misfat al Abriyyin) in the Al Hamra region. This traditional village built into a mountainside has a 300-year history and is known for its mud buildings, which use giant boulders as foundations. It is also home to some of the more than 3,000 aflaj still functioning in the country.
We drove to a viewpoint over the town from the nearby mountain of Jebel Shams (see: The Grand Canyon of Arabia), before taking a walk through the steep and narrow ancient streets.
A Rugged Landscape Looking across the arid foothills around Jebel Shams, you get a feel for how difficult early life must have been for the semi-nomadic tribes who settled near here.
Misfat al-Abriyeen and Al Hamra Small mountain villages, with their clever management of spring water, have become oases in an otherwise arid landscape.
Rocky Terrain The rocks tumbled around the mountain village of Misfat Al Abriyeen are a sample of the those used to construct the ancient buildings we are about to walk through.
Rustic Door Oman is known for its doors, which range from simple bolted wood …
Coloured Patterns … to colourful patterned confections in painted iron.
Locked?
Workmen This village is very lived-in; keeping the ancient buildings maintained must require a lot of effort!
Narrow Laneway Narrow lanes and steep stairs wind off from the main path …
Boy in the Street There aren’t many people around, but we spot a few.
Unripe Pomegranate As we follow a water canal down the hill, our path is lined with greenery.
Playing in the Falaj A small tank built into the falaj system …
Boys in the Falaj … makes an ideal spot to play and cool off.
Metal Door
Village on the Hill We’ve descended a fair distance from our starting point.
Staircase What comes down, must go up!
Metal Window Shutters I use another ornate metal design as an excuse to pause on the ascent.
Building on a Cliff The incredible mud-brick and stone buildings use the hulking boulders of the terrain for their foundations.
Date Palms Dates are central to Omani life, and palms are the most visible trees in the plantations that also contain mangoes, bananas, papayas, pomegranates, and citrus fruits.
Brick Wall and More Stairs
House Front A decade ago many of the old houses were abandoned, but the rise in tourist visitors is bringing locals back to renovate their old houses and make an additional income.
Window Rails
Pots for Sale Tourism has revitalise the local crafts …
Pots in the Wind … and plenty of beautiful clay pots are available for purchase.
Palms and a Village At the top of the hill, we get a look over the newer city before heading back to our car.
Misfat Al Abriyeen is a beautiful mud village, blending seamlessly into the very rocks of the mountainside around it, and nourished by the falaj that runs through it.
Fairmont Château Lake Louise Originally built as a luxury destination hotel by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the early 1900s, the Château Lake Louise stands as a stately beacon to days gone by.
Lake Louise in Alberta’s Banff National Park has always held an attraction for me. When I was a child, we would camp in the vicinity regularly. Many years later, my husband and I treated ourselves to a winter stay at the majestic Fairmont Château Lake Louise and I was able to introduce him to this beautiful area.
This last Northern summer, as part of a Western Canadian road trip (see: A Mountain Village in Spring), I stayed in the township of Lake Louise for a few days: not in the luxurious Château, but in the more modest Lake Louise Inn downtown. Naturally, the first thing I did was check out the walking trails. I discovered that the Louise Creek Trail would take me up to the Château and allow me to revisit my memories.
AllTrails call it a “moderately challenging” 6.9 kilometre (4.3 mile) “out and back” trail; I clocked 14.71 kilometres (9.1 miles) on my walking app, and was very ready to put my feet up at the end. But, it’s a delightful climb along the rushing creek – and to see the magnificent hotel at the end was a real treat.
Join me for a walk in the Canadian woods:
Lake Louise Inn Encircled by the majestic Canadian Rockies, the Inn is a sprawling accommodation a short walk from town centre.
Columbian Ground Squirrel – Spermophilus Columbianus There is plenty of wildlife around the grounds.
Crossing the Bow River Originating here in the Canadian Rockies, the Bow River winds through the National Park and the Alberta foothills towards the South Saskatchewan River to the east.
Island in the Bow From the highway bridge, there are beautiful views upriver, …
The Bow from the Bridge … and down.
A Fork in the Trail The trails are well marked – but some are closed off for the season.
Louise Creek Trail My trail leads off into the woods, …
Small Orchids … with small flowers in the leaf litter at the sides.
Tumbling Water Most of the trail follows the creek …
Louise Creek … which rushes down to reach the river.
Stairs over the Highway The trail leads up …
Tunnel … and then under the highway.
White Water in Louise Creek
New Growth
The Winding Path
Deer Lodge The trail approaches the highway, and buildings come into sight.
Château Lake Louise Finally! The château rises up at the end of a long driveway.
Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel – Callospermophilus Lateralis Small ground squirrels run around the property …
Curiosity … and look to see if food is on offer.
The Bridge There are a lot of tourists around, and the day-carpark is full.
The Lake The glacial waters stretch out to the mountains …
Canoes on the Lake … and are full of boaters.
Water on the Rocks The way back seems shorter than the way out, …
Back on the Bow … and before long I was on the bridge over the river.
Walkers in the Canyon The hike through the Samaria Gorge, in the rugged mountains of southern Crete, is stunning – but exhausting. I was told it was 18 kilometres (11 miles) in length – but with the hills, and the extra walk to town, my walking app logged 32 kilometers!
I have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew. This is never more obvious than when I select walks to do while I’m travelling.
Take Crete, for example: on my first day on the ground after many hours in transit, I had booked myself onto a bus trip that included a 7.6 kilometre (4.6 mi) hike with a 270 m (886 ft) drop and rise (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest). Add a midday Mediterranean sun and I turned tomato-red and thought I was going to die!
Naturally, I did not learn my lesson. Three days later, I was on another bus, heading to the top of the Samaria Gorge – also in southern Crete. AllTrails, who are known to underestimate rather than overestimate difficulty, list this as a 14.5 km (9 mi) ‘challenging’ route. On the plus side, much of the track is downhill – steeply downhill. On the minus side, there is a long walk to town once the actual gorge is finished, and if you don’t make it to Agia Roumeli for the evening ferry, you are stranded!
Don’t get me wrong, I love walking. But, I no longer have the knees or the stamina I once had, and I found myself quite anxious the night before my trip.
But, I finished. I couldn’t have done it without a walking stick for the steep and rocky downhill sections – of which there are many – and I had to adjust my boots more than once.
Orthodox Church – Lakkoi Xania I had my nose pressed to the window for most of my bus trips across Crete – each view was more dramatic than the last! (iPhone12pro)
Ξυλόσκαλο – Xyloskalo – Wooden Staircase The northern entrance to the track starts at about 1250m (4100 ft) and drops steeply into the gorge.
Looking through the Samaria Gorge The gorge cuts through the rugged White Mountains. At 16 km (10 mi), it is the longest in Europe. Stunning views from near the top of the hike make a good excuse to stop for a moment!
Steep Stairs The first 6 km (3.8 mi) of the trail zig-zag down a steep cobbled staircase. Good boots are a must!
Fire-Fighting Equipment This was a year before Greece suffered devastating wildfires; clearly the National Parks are prepared.
More Down … The track continues down, but is softer underfoot where generations of trees have dropped their needles.
Mule on the Trail The track can be quite hazardous, and there are mules at the ready in case someone needs rescuing. I didn’t see anyone making use of them: one woman fell and required first aid the day I hiked the path, but I think she managed to walk out herself.
Two Kilometres (1.24 Miles) Only two! My walking app says three – and my knees already say five.
Rocky Walk Most of the uphill sections ae mercifully short.
Nature’s Sculpture – Twisting Tree Trunk Samaria cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var. horizontalis) have strong horizontal branches that give the tree a bulky shape. They can live two to three hundred years.
Rocky Cairn Humans seem to feel the need to mark their passing: small cairns dot the countryside.
Artesian Waters There are a number of fresh springs along the route – I think this one is the Spring of Riza Sykias.
Agios Nikolaos Church This little Greek Orthodox chapel marks the first official rest stop and the end of the steepest sections of track. It wasn’t open, but is was still a lovely spot for a quick break. Nearby, old ruins are believed to be from an ancient shrine to Apollo.
Artesian Pool All the springs have no swimming signs clearly posted.
Autumn Leaves on the Water The water is drinkable – and incredibly clear.
Flowering Sea Squill – Drimia Maritima
View over the Scree Clearly, there is still more descending to do! Some say the gorge was created by a small river running between the White Mountains (Lefká Óri) and Mt. Volakias. Others credit the influence of tectonic processes more than two million years ago.
Walled Gardens in Samaria The settlement here was populated until 1962, when the Samaria National Park was formed, and the villagers were moved out.
Bridge to the Samaria Settlement The buildings here remain – but little was open except the toilet blocks. I sat on a garden wall, enjoyed my packed lunch, and retied my boots before setting off again.
Valley of the Gorge The valley starts out wide enough, dwarfing the walkers picking their way over the rough rocky ground.
Walkers in the Canyon Soon, however, the canyon walls close in.
Walls of the Gorge The limestone and dolomite are carved by glacial action and other elements of time.
Afternoon Sun Walkers are warned to wear sunscreen and hats: the noon sun is hot on the bare stones.
Contrasts The early afternoon sun can no longer reach sections of the narrow canyon floor.
Slabs and Scree The landscape is rugged and still changing. In the winter months, the hike is closed due to the high risk of flash flooding along the Samaria River. Even in spring and autumn, waters can rise suddenly. In 1993, some walkers were washed out to sea and drowned.
Walkers on a Bridge As we approach the narrowest sections of the gorge, bridges keep our feet dry …
Water in a Weathered Cleft … and protect the pristine spring waters from pollution.
Nature’s Artworks : Water and Rock
Curving Walkway Autumn maples bend over the track
Winding through the Canyon The narrowest part of the gorge is 11.5 km (7.15 mi) in from the beginning at the north entrance.
In the “Gate” or the “Iron Gate” According to the official sign, the distance between the walls here is as little as three meters (10 ft), and they rise up to 300 meters.
Light at the end of the Canyon The canyon walls reduce in height, and the end is in sight.
Walk to Town There is a shuttle bus to Agia Roumeli, but there was a long queue and I would have had to wait at least a half hour. I must say the walk felt longer than it was!
I made it into town with time for a meal of stuffed vegetables and a well-earned glass of wine before I had to meet the ferry.
It is a stunningly beautiful area and I’m very glad I walked it.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Even with heavy cloud cover, our visit to Pilatus, that iconic mountain peak towering over the charming city of Lucerne, was a delight.
Until next time,
