Closeup: woman

Etching Details
Making fine Burmese lacquerware is time-consuming and labour-intensive.

There is something universal about the search for beauty.

We may not agree on what “beauty” is – indeed, Western philosophy has argued conceptions of beauty extensively over time – but we all seek to surround ourselves with objects that are not merely functional, but are also aesthetically pleasing.

One of the many joys of travel, for me, is seeing how “other people” do things – especially in terms of creating functional objects in beautiful forms. From clothing to architecture, people seem driven to decorate themselves and their environments in ways that are culturally and regionally distinctive.

Take Burmese lacquerware for example: it takes time, skill, a steady hand, and an eye for design to transform simple wood or metal surfaces into richly decorated objects.

For centuries, people in Asia have used lacquer made from the resin of the “Japanese varnish tree” or the “Chinese lacquer tree” (Toxicodendron vernicifluum) to give wooden products a tough, durable and water-resistant finish. A simple red lacquered wooden bowl thought to date to the 5th millennium BC was found in Zhejiang, China. Much later, during the Shang Dynasty (ca. 1600–1046 BC) in China, sophisticated lacquer techniques were developed and it became a highly artistic craft.

The Burmese style of making lacquerware, called Yun-de, was introduced into the country by Yun or Laos Shan artisans from the north of Thailand in the mid-1500s. The lacquer, which comes from the sap of the “Burmese lacquer tree” or “Thitsee” (Melanorrhoea usitata), starts out straw-coloured, but turns black when exposed to air. Many layers of lacquer are applied to a bamboo form, each needing to dry for several days before being polished to a smooth finish, engraved with intricate designs, and painted.

“The best lacquerware in [the] world is crafted in Bagan, Myanmar, a village steeped in two hundred years of practice in the craft.” When I visited the U Ba Nyein Lacquerware Workshop in Bagan, I was able to watch some of the steps in the manufacture process.

On a photographic note: I don’t usually opt for black and white, but my original shots were “noisy” with colour, which I thought distracted from the sense of quiet concentration I felt emanating from the workers. Working in black and white also gave me a chance to experiment with different editing processes.

U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Weaving the Base
A base for the lacquer coating is made of bamboo strips woven together with horsehair.

Portrait: Burmese woman weaving horsehair and bamboo into a bowl, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Weaving Bamboo
The combination of bamboo and horsehair gives the material strength and flexibility.

Burmese man with Bamboo pots, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Bamboo Pots
The bamboo form is built up in layers.

Burmese man with a Chisel, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Chiselling the Base
Bamboo bases are chiselled into the desired form.

Burmese man Applying Thayo to pots, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Applying Thayo
Thayo, a thick mixture of thitsee resin with ash or sawdust, is layered onto the bamboo forms. Subsequent layers of resin might be thinner.

Burmese man working on lacquerware, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Pressing and Polishing
Thayo, the thitsee tree resin mixture, can be sculpted while wet.

Closeup: man

Engraving Details
Once the many layers of lacquer are dry and polished, detailed patterns can be etched into it.

Burmese woman etching a pattern on a burmese lacquer tray, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Etching Lacquerware
All the designs and engraving are done free-hand…

Burmese woman etching a pattern on a burmese lacquer tray, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Etching Lacquerware
… taking steady hands …

Portrait: Burmese woman etching a pattern on a burmese lacquer tray, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Etching Lacquerware
… and a great deal of concentration.

Burmese man painting a pattern on a burmese lacquer tray, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Painting Lacquerware
Elaborate designs commonly use red, green and yellow colours – or even gold leaf.

Close-up: Burmese man painting a pattern on a burmese lacquer tray, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Painting Lacquerware
Large pieces can take a year to complete.

Close-up: Burmese man washing burmese lacquer pieces, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Washing Lacquerware
Even small pieces can take months.

Burmese lacquerware pots with lids, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Lacquerware Pots
As well as intricate patterns, designs include pictorial scenes from popular stories, and signs of the Burmese zodiac.

Burmese men working, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Final Wash and Polish

Burmese man working, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar, B&W BlackandWhite

Sorting Pots and Lids

Wall Display, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Wall Display
A range of items are on show in the display area, including hsun, rice bowls with stems and spired lids.

Vases and Table-Ware, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Vases and Table-Ware

Home Decor, U Ba Nyein Lacquerware, Bagan Myanmar B&W Black and White

Home Decor

The advent of plastics, porcelain and metal for use in everyday utensils have greatly reduced the need for lacquerware, and today it is predominantly produced for decorative items and for tourists.

However, while the opening-up of Myanmar has meant more international tourism, it has put whole new pressures on the job market, with young people preferring work in the hospitality sector.

In a recent (February, 2014) news story, Ma Mee Mee, co-owner of the U Ba Nyein Lacquerware Workshop, said: “We are worried that Bagan will lose the battle to save our traditional lacquerware culture.”

Sign-Off-Happy-ShoppingThat would, indeed, be a great shame.

I did my bit, and came home with a small piece of beautifully crafted artwork.

Until next time ~ Happy Shopping!

Pictures: 18September2012

  • pongpet - July 28, 2014 - 11:11 pm

    This makes me really feel like visiting the place.
    Thank you.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 29, 2014 - 9:56 pm

      Thanks, Pongpet! It is a special place.:DReplyCancel

  • […] Etching Lacquerware Our next stop was at a handicraft workshop, where high quality lacquerware is still produced in the traditional manner. (See the Blog Post: Etching U Ba Nyein Lacquerware) […]ReplyCancel

  • nayzar aung - February 28, 2016 - 5:01 am

    I’m inpressed.Can i get ur mobile number or office phone number for my business?ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - February 28, 2016 - 3:15 pm

      Thanks for your visit!
      As you can see from the Blog, this business is not mine – but their information is on their website. 😀ReplyCancel

Elvis Costello on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Elvis is in the Building!

Names drop like musical notes

– and me, once again, am caught without an umbrella…

Apologies for the paraphrase, but when I envisioned dropping the names of some of the musical heavy-weights we had the good fortune to listen to at the Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014, I “saw” the names coming down like rain; like the tears in the old Michael Franti song: Caught Without An Umbrella. Music is like that, I guess; it makes for unusual connections.

I remember, many years ago, walking up to the sales register in a record store with a number of CDs: a 1953 recording of Mozart’s horn concertos; an Australian punk-rock album, popular with under-15s that I was buying for my daughter; the first studio album by Michael Franti’s Spearhead (see: Michael Franti and Spearhead); an older album by a contemporary jazz quartet; an early rock compilation; a classic Tony Joe White collection of “swamp music” and a couple of other disk I have forgotten. The store’s owner-operator raised one eyebrow and looked at me quizzically: “You have an eclectic taste in music,” he pronounced, dryly.

I guess he is right: eclectic, but lazy. That’s one of the reasons I love music festivals like Bluesfest: even though it is billed as “Blues and Roots”, in all honesty, almost anything goes! What better place to sample a broad range of music: from the classic roots to the leading edge; small bands and big names; local and over-seas.

Our first two days got off to a great start (Full Blast and Full Colour) and continued with a rich mix of sounds.

Jack Johnson on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Get in Early!
Hearing great bands doesn’t always mean seeing them very well. We delighted in listening to tracks from folk-rock singer-songwriter Jack Johnson from a long way back in the big Mojo tent. Zach Gill joined him on accordion for the laid-back crowd-pleaser “Belle / Banana Pancakes”.
Accordion pop music? How’s that for eclectic?

Clairy Browne and The Bangin

Clairy Browne & The Bangin’ Rackettes
In total antithesis to the soft sounds of Jack Johnson, Clairy Browne & The Bangin’ Rackettes were belting out their brand of jazzy doo-wop in black vinyl dresses and hot red lighting, rounding out another night of varied music.

Clairy Browne & The Bangin

Clairy Browne
Smaller venues – in this case Delta tent – allow for closer access to performers.

Terrance Simien and the Zydeco Experience on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Terrance Simien and the Zydeco Experience’s Grammy
Early Saturday we were in the Cavanbah tent listening to the infectious Terrance Simien as he explained Zydeco (Louisiana Afro-Creole roots) music and showed off the first Grammy he and his band won in 2009.

Terrance Simien on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Another Accordion!
The two primary instruments in Zydeco are the accordion …

Stan Chambers (bass) and Ralph Fontenot (rub-board) on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Stan Chambers (bass) and Ralph Fontenot (rubboard)
…and the rubboard or frottoir (French for friction strip) …

Children playing Zydeco Rubboard on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Audience Participation
… which children from the audience helped with.

Danny Williams, keyboard, on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Danny Williams
Keyboardist, songwriter, and producer Danny Williams, is proud to be part of both Grammy-winning albums. The most recent one, “Dockside Sessions”, won best regional roots music album in 2014.

Kate Miller Heidke on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Kate Miller Heidke
For a complete contrast, our next stop was for the Elizabethan-dressed, operatically-trained, in-your-face (language warning!) Australian singer-songwriter Kate Miller Heidke.

Dreads and Tats Music festivals are not just about the performers -

Dreads, Beads and Tats
Music festivals are not just about the performers –

A young woman in sparkly Face Paint, Bluesfest 2014 Byron Bay

Face Paint and Cat’s Ears
– people-watching is half the fun.

Neville Brotherson stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Neville Brothers
With their distinctive mix of rhythm & blues, funk, jazz, and American R&B, the Neville Brothers, with Charles on saxophone and Aaron with his unique vibrato on vocals, filled the Crossroads tent with soul sounds.

Aaron Neville on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

“Bird on a Wire”
I don’t like people messing with my Leonard Cohen, but I can make an exception for Aaron Neville.

Belly Dancers, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Belly Dancer
Back outside in the twilight, local belly dancers shake their stuff.

Camera Operator silhouetted, , Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Camera Setup
Silhouetted against an almost-dark stage, a camera operator waits …

Gregg Allman on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Gregg Allman
… for Gregg Allman, who sits high up on his keyboard like a Southern preacher at his pulpit.

 Jeff Beck on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Jeff Beck
The guitarist’s guitarist, Jeff Beck, with Rhonda Smith on bass, follows.

Morcheeba on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Morcheeba
Meanwhile, in Jambalaya Tent, British band Morcheeba, with their contemporary trip-hop rock, fronted by singer Skye Edwards, are pulling in the younger dance crowd.

We started our fourth festival morning with some choice Australian acts (Homegrown Favourites) before sampling performers from around the world in an assortment of musical styles.

Foy Vance on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Foy Vance
Early afternoon in the Mojo Tent

Foy Vance on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Foy Vance
… singer-songwriter Foy Vance from Northern Ireland sings his original songs.

Nikki Hill performing, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Nikki Hill
American vocalist extraordinaire Nikki Hill

Nikki Hill performing, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Nikki Hill
… set the Juke Joint on fire with early rock classics.

Playing for Change on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Playing for Change
More happy sounds come out of Mojo Tent as the performers from around the world who comprise Playing for Change sing their up-beat music; …

Chali 2na on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Chali 2na
… very different from the rap stylings from hip-hop artist Chali 2na in the Crossroads.

James Cotton Blues Band on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

James Cotton Blues Band
In Delta, we went back to basics, and enjoyed music from some real blues veterans: singer Darrell Nulisch, harmonica legend James Cotton, and bass guitarist Noel Neal.

Nahko & Medicine for the People on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Nahko & Medicine for the People
Alternative Australian singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, Xavier Rudd joined the American group Nahko & Medicine for the People on stage for music with strong indigenous (First Nations) references.

India.Arie performing, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

India.Arie
Multi-award winning American singer-songwriter, musician, and record producer, India.Arie performed in Mojo. Her R&B sounds and messages of education and empowerment are in contrast with …

KC and the Sunshine Band

KC and the Sunshine Band
… the pure sunny fun and disco party going on in Crossroads, where KC and the Sunshine Band were joined by exuberant leggy dancers.

KC and the Sunshine Band on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Harry Wayne “K.C.” Casey
KC first formed the Sunshine Band in 1973 and had a number of disco-pop-funk hits before disbanding it in the early 1980s. The revival group has been performing since the mid-1990s.

KC and the Sunshine Band on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Jeffery Reeves on Lead Guitar
Lights, dancers, horns, keyboards: KC and the Sunshine Band was one big party – and the audience was dancing along the whole time. Who says disco is dead?

After a second listen to the Cambodian Space Project, we checked out the young British Indie folk-rock performer, Jake Bugg.

Jack Bugg, on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Jake Bugg
Clearly a hit with the younger festival goers, …

Jack Bugg, on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Jake Bugg is big voice from his spot on the stage.

Elvis Costello, on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Guitars Lined Up
Elvis Costello’s performance segued from one song to another, with guitar-changes, but no pause and very little patter.

Elvis Costello, on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Elvis Costello
With a career spanning almost four decades, countless songs and albums, numerous awards, including an Honorary Doctorate in Music and a Grammy, Elvis Costello’s performance was a fitting culmination of our five days of fabulous music.

“And memories come down and me once again
Am caught without an umbrella.”

Text: Keep smilingLike I said at the outset: lots of names, big and small.

Lots of great music.

Pictures: 18-21April2014

Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Michael Franti
On stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest, Michael Franti shares his distinctive blend of good vibes, good messages, and good music.

Isn’t it funny how we experience a “kinship” with identities whose views and/or behaviour we admire? And, how we feel a “connection” with personalities whose faces are visible in the media or whose opus with which we are familiar? We “know” these people – even though they have no idea who we are.

Music is so evocative that its is no surprise that – although it is a very public medium – it speaks to us at a very private level; particularly if it is music with a message with which we identify. Certainly, music speaks to a time and place, and we often know exactly where we were or who we were with when we first heard a particular song or band.

I confess: I don’t listen to the radio much, unless I am in the car driving. And, I’m more likely to listen to news, views, and music I am familiar with, than I am to listen to anything avant-garde. It is not the norm for me to be up with trends until they are tried-and-true (i.e., no longer trendy!). So, it was pretty unusual for me to be hunting down a band that wasn’t across every bodies lips in 1994, after hearing a short snatch of song that had come through on a clock-radio – tuned to Triple J, an Australian platform for new music – before it turned itself off for the night.

(Double click for the audio clip: Hole in the Bucket, from the 1994 Spearhead album Home.

I was captured by both the tune and the clever lyrics. It was a sort of reggae-rap; again, not my normal fare. My mental associations with the lyrics, as happens with a good poem, shot off in a non-linear manner, connecting to all kinds of images and memories.

The track’s chorus comprises the traditional children’s song: “There’s a hole in the bucket, dear Liza, dear Liza….” Harry Belafonte’s well-known 1961 rendition of this song was on one of the very-few non-symphonic, non-operatic LPs that I had access to as a child. Later, as a young adult, I saw Belafonte perform it live in concert. So, hearing the refrain embedded in a rap song – about a man deciding whether or not to give spare change to an indigent beggar on the street corner – got my attention.

The song is called “Hole in the Bucket”, as I discovered after trying to hum a few bars to the owner-operator of a local independent record store (Do you remember those?). He was able to point me to the disc: Home, the first studio album by Spearhead, Michael Franti’s (then) newly formed band.

I fell in love with the whole album. Whether it is a well-written book or a skillful lyric, I am easily seduced by artfully-crafted words – and the words on that album are adroitly composed: sharp and insightful, with enough honesty to stop short of being maudlin, and enough empathy to keep from being just clever.

“I’m not responsible for the man’s depression
how can I find compassion in the midst of recession?”

In 2000, I dragged a girlfriend out to a Sydney nightclub because Michael Franti and Spearhead were playing. We were amongst the oldest fans at the venue, and were flattered and amused (even though we knew the bouncers were kidding) when we were age-carded at the door. The band were on their third album by then, but had lost none of their energy, or social consciousness. The political messages – and the warm humanity – were still in evidence.

That was a long time ago, and we’ve all grown older since then. But, unlike many of us who become more cynical with age, Franti seems to have retained – and expanded upon – his positive energy. In the intervening years, he has written a children’s book on recycling, helped fund a birthing centre in Bali, produced an award-winning documentary on the effects of war in the Middle East, and sponsored and promoted various fair-trade, whole food, and healthy lifestyle endeavours.

I was thrilled to see that Spearhead, now on their eighth studio album, were on the Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014 lineup. Rolling Stone agrees that Michael has mellowed, and his “formative punk rap … [has] veered toward full-on jam pop.” But, the review of the “All People” album continues: “Well-crafted, unfailingly likable, the music hints at his activist-sage roots; check out the apocalypse-minded, Matrix-produced rap-along “11:59.” For those who plan to go down dancing, he’s a solid man to have on the mic.”

I can’t argue with that! His Sunday night set in the Crossroads tent was one long party.

Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Michael Franti
Centre stage in the Crossroads tent, Michael Franti has the crowd jumping up and down with positive energy from the very beginning.

Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Michael Franti
He performed the songs from the most recent album, All People.

Spearhead on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Spearhead
Michael Franti has always surrounded himself with excellent musicians.

 J Bowman on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

J Bowman
The current lineup of Spearhead includes guitar virtuoso J Bowman, who also acts as production partner to Franti.

 J Bowman on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

J Bowman
He contributed an infectious energy to the gig.

Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Michael Franti
The performance moved forward with exuberance and without pause, …

Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

…alternating between “big” moments from the stage …

Michael Franti in the Crowd, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

… and more intimate moments from the floor …

Michael Franti in the Crowd, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

… as Franti climbed down into the crowd.

Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Six-foot-six, habitually barefoot, Michael Franti is a regular yoga practitioner.

J Bowman on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Backlit, J Bowman wails his guitar.

Henry Wagons and Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Henry Wagons
In true festival fashion, eccentric Australian showman Henry Wagons was invited to join Spearhead on stage…

Henry Wagons and Michael Franti on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Rocking On!
… after meeting Michael at an afternoon session of Rockwiz, an Australian television quiz show series.

Carl Young on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014.

Carl Young on Bass
Versatile musician Carl Young has been with Michael and Spearhead since 1994.

Michael Franti in the Crowd, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Franti in the Crowd

Michael Franti in the Crowd, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Regarding his projects, Michael has said: “Everything comes through my connection to my audience.”

Kids on Stage with Michael Franti, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Kids on Stage
Franti calls all the kids in the audience onto the stage for one of the final songs…

Sara Agah on stage, Bluesfest 2014, Byron Bay

Sara Agah; Behind every Good Man…
As part of the “after party”, while Michael gets back into the audience, his partner, Canadian nurse and jewellery designer, Sara Agah, and the other “back stage” people, are called out front.

Text: Keep smiling

Happy music with positive messages –

How could you help but leave smiling?

Pictures: 20April2014

Two Women in Saris walking around the Chand Baori Stepwell,  Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Women around the Stepwell
The Chand Baori stepwell, built between 800 and 900 AD, gives us a glimpse into Rajasthan’s past.

One of the pleasures of ground travel is the access you get to those places outside city centres. Ancient treasures and glimpses into the old ways of doing things can often be found just “off” the usual paths.

The ancient Rajasthani village of Abhaneri is only a fifteen minute detour off the main Jaipur – Agra highway. Abhaneri is home to a ruined tenth-century temple to Harshat Mata, Hindu Goddess of Joy and Happiness – and home to one of India’s largest and deepest remaining stepwells.

Stepwells. If you have never heard of them, you can be forgiven!

When I was doing background research on the Chand Baori stepwell in Abhaneri, I came across one site that called it “famous”. And, according to Wikipedia it was featured in the movie Paheli. I had to look that up as well: turns out it is a Bollywood film from 2005. Famous, perhaps – but not in my usual sphere.

Another useful website I found was entitled: India’s Forgotten Stepwells. So, not so famous after all! I’d seen pictures of  women in saris against the Escherian-like steps leading into the well’s bottom – but I’ve never given the architecture or the purpose much thought.

Stepwells are found in arid regions of South Asia, extending into Pakistan, but are most common (according to Wikipedia) in western India. They were built to help solve the problem of having an unpredictable water supply in regions with long periods of dry heat, alternating with weeks of monsoonal rain. Surface water evaporates quickly in the dry season, and regular wells made water hard to access when the water levels dropped dramatically.

The earliest stepwells most likely date to about 550 AD, but the most famous were built in medieval times. It is estimated that over 3,000 stepwells were built in the two northern states [of Rajasthan and Gujarat]. Although many have fallen into disrepair, were silted in at some point in antiquity, or were filled in with trash in the modern era, hundreds of wells still exist. In New Delhi alone, there are more than 30.

I had never seen a stepwell before, and was keen to visit this well-preserved example of Indian architecture.

Indian teenage girls going to School, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Girls Going to School
It always amazes me how crisp and clean students’ uniforms are in the mornings as they walk through the wet, dirty streets to school; Abhaneri, Rajasthan.

Corner of the Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

The Chand Baori Stepwell
Common in western India, stepwells not only provided access to cool water, they were a gathering place and the centre of many cultural activities.

Detail of bricks at the Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Enter Escher…
This well was built by King Chanda between 800 and 900 AD and then dedicated to Hashat Mata, Goddess of Joy and Happiness. The 3,500 steps extend 13 storeys – about 100 feet or 30+ meters – into the ground.

Family group walking around the Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Family on the Walkway
Access to the steps is now fenced off for safety. The day we were there, no one was allowed in: no “women on the wall” photos for us.

Portrait: Young Indian Woman in Green, Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Young Woman in Green
Daily use of the stepwells was discontinued under the British Raj. Authorities, worried about hygiene and water quality, installed pipes and pumps to replace the communal wells. This change might have make life easier and safer, but it disrupted traditional social and religious practices.

Portrait: Young Indian Woman in Blue, Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Young Woman in Blue
Instead of walking down into the well, the brightly-clad visitors promenade around it, …

Portrait: Young Indian Woman in Pink, Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Young Woman in Pink
… happily stopping to have their pictures taken.

Detail of the ornate end of the Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Pavilions in the Stepwell
Covered “pavilions”, accessed by narrow ledges, provide a social function in giving shade, while also buttressing the walls against the intense pressure of water when the well is full.

Hindu art, stone carvings of deities, at the Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Stone Frieze Pieces
Build before the rule of the Muslim Mughals, the stepwell was richly decorated with Hindu art.

Hindu art, stone carvings of deities, at the Chand Baori Stepwell, Abhaneri Rajasthan.

Stone Frieze Pieces
Stone carvings of deities that have come off the original structure, are placed around the upper walkway.

Yellow-washed walls with Blue Door and window shutters, Abhaneri, India

Blue Door

Indian Potter at  wheel; his Wife smoking a clay pipe in the background, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

The Potter and his Wife
Across the road from the stepwell, a potter works his wheel while his wife smokes a clay pipe.

Indian Potter spinning his wheel, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Working the Wheel
Everything is done by hand – even the spinning of the potter’s wheel.

Indian Potter working his clay, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Repeating Circles
Each pot is shaped by hand, then placed on the board before firing.

Closeup of the Hands of  Potter working clay, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Hands of the Potter

Portrait: Rajasthani man in a white turban, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

The Potter

Portrait: Woman with a Pipe, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

The Potter’s Wife

The Potter at Work

The Potter at Work

Woman with a Pipe

Woman Smoking
This clay pipe is one of the potter’s making.

Clay bowl with ash and pots, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

Firing The Clay Pots
These little clay pots are used for drinking chai, that wonderful sweet, spicy tea that is a staple of my diet when I visit India.

The Potters Wife and the Clay Wares, Abhaneri, Rajasthan

The Potters Wife and the Wares
Samples of the potter’s wares sit on the edge of the firing pit as his wife smiles at the visitors.

It was a short detour –

– but an interesting glimpse into the old ways; simpler, more social and communal, but much more labour intensive.

It’s a trade off, really. One that is being re-evaluated in today’s world.

Artisans are looking to age-old crafts for techniques and inspiration; social-scientists are studying traditional societies for models of social cohesion; and environmental planners and contemporary architects are re-examining India’s old stepwells as a potential solution to continuing concerns about access to water.

Sign-Off-Namaste

We can all learn from the past.

Namaste!

Pictures: 16November2013

  • dietmut - June 30, 2014 - 9:02 pm

    I love it Ursula, so beautiful series. I’m a great India fan. I have been in India 9times. Greetings DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 1, 2014 - 1:15 am

      Thank you so much for your kind words, Dietmut. I, too, love India – and it is a photographer’s dream!ReplyCancel

Portrait: Hat Fitz on banjo, Cara Robinson on flute, Byron Bluesfest 2014

With a Banjo and Flute
Hat Fitz and Cara Robinson are crowd-pleasers wherever they go – and we love ’em.

Music festivals are a great opportunity to try new sounds on for size, but they are also a great place in which to give oneself up to the comfort of old favourites.

We did both at the recent Byron Bay Bluesfest; because we had indulged ourselves and pre-purchased five-day tickets for this year’s annual Easter Weekend music festival, we were able to pick and choose from a broad range of musical options. Of course, it is always wonderful to see the old classics – those living legends who embody the very history of “Blues and Roots” music – and to get a peek at, and a listen to, current hit-makers and chart-toppers. And we did both (Full Blast and Full Colour). We also enjoyed some “other-worldly” options that might not otherwise have crossed our paths (Cambodian Space Project).

But, we also looked forward to – and thoroughly enjoyed – some familiar, homegrown favourites. When I say “homegrown”, I mean resident Australian – though their roots, origins, and musical influences are far more wide-ranging. And, though they may be homegrown, rubbing shoulders with the international stars and musical legends at festivals has given them world-class polish and lustre.

Take Hat Fitz and Cara Robinson, for example. I first saw Hat Fitz perform at the 10th Byron Bay Blues and Roots Festival, in 1999, many years before he met his current wife and musical partner Cara Robinson at (the story goes) a music festival in her native Ireland in 2008. He has a voice of gravel; she has a vocal range and power that often has me choked with tears. Together, they are captivating. My husband and I first saw them together at the 2012 Thredbo Blues Festival, and we made sure to introduce our friends to them at last year’s Byron Bay Bluesfest, and this year’s Thredbo Blues.

Hat Fitz and Cara Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Hat Fitz and Cara
The pair performed three times at this year’s Bluesfest. Early Friday afternoon found them in the heat of the Juke Joint: the Aussie “wild man” in his usual hat, shorts and thongs and the Irish “angel” in her 1940s-style curls.

Portrait: Singer Cara Robinson Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Cara Robinson
The couple have had some difficult times recently, and the resulting emotions have been written into some of their newest songs.

Hat Fitz Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Hat Fitz and his National Steel Guitar

Cara on washboard Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Cara on Washboard
The duo’s music crosses genres, but has been described as “shabby hill-country blues”. Cara’s washboard compliments Hat’s gravel tones on “Wiley Ways”.

(Double click to start Wiley Ways from the album of the same name by Hat Fitz and Cara.)

Their latest compilation, “Do Tell”, hadn’t yet been released by Bluesfest, so I give you (above) a sample from their previous album, which I have uploaded before.

Hat Fitz and Cara Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Hat Fitz and Cara
The powerhouse pair opened the Delta Stage on Saturday. Cara’s vocals soared while Hat’s guitar sang.

Hat Fitz and Cara Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Banjo and Flute
Sunday, the couple were first-up on stage at the big Crossroads tent.

Hat Fitz Cara Performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Hat Fitz
The patter, story-telling, and cross-fire between the two as they change instruments between songs, is as entertaining as their music.

Cara on Performing Washboard, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Oh, Joyful Sounds!
Cara singing while on washboard.

Cara Performing on Pipe, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2014

Cara on Pipe
Cara whistles us out on a traditional pipe.

Another local act we’ve been privileged to hear before, is the young Genevieve Chadwick. The first time we saw her, at another Thredbo Blues Festival (2013), was the day she got the news that she had been chosen as one of only three Australians to participate in the international “Playing for Change” project. We also caught her first Bluesfest performance last year.

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick, Byron Bluesfest 2014

Genevieve Chadwick
“She looks like an angel… roars like a lion… and plays guitar like a demon!”
That’s from the biography on her website – but I can’t argue with it!

(Double click to start Down to the Bone from the new Playing for Change Presents Genevieve Chadwick album)

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick, Byron Bluesfest 2014

“looks like an angel”
Barefoot, sweet-faced Genevieve …

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick, Byron Bluesfest 2014

… roars like a lion …
… has a powerhouse voice when she lets loose.

Portrait: Genevieve Chadwick, Byron Bluesfest 2014

… and plays guitar like a demon!

At last year’s Bluesfest, our friends steered us toward a very local group: The Round Mountain Girls; Round Mountain being about an hour’s drive from the festival venue at Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm. We were sufficiently captivated to want to get in early for their only performance at this year’s Bluesfest, early on the last day. As before, they made me smile.

Round Mountain Girls performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Round Mountain Girls
Chris Brooker, Chris Willoughby, Chris Eaton, Rex Carter, and Rabbit Robinson of Round Mountain Girls

Round Mountain Girls performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Round Mountain Girls
… are five grown men having way too much fun!

Rabbit Robinson performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Rabbit Robinson
Master of stringed instruments and party animal, Rabbit plays like one possessed…

Rabbit Robinson performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Rabbit Robinson
… occasionally catching the spotlights as he bounces around the stage.

Chris Brooker performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Chris Brooker
The mandolin-playing Chris (Brooker/Boker/Broker) is also a song-writing contributor to the band.

 Jamie Symmonds performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Jamie Symmonds
Performing on harmonica, guest Jamie joins the “Girls” for a few songs.

Chris Eaton

Chris Eaton
Lead vocalist and player of banjos and guitars, …

Chris Eaton performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Chris Eaton
… Chris Eaton writes many of the Girls’ original pieces.

Chris Eaton performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Chris Eaton
Born in Liverpool England, Chris still embodies that innocent enthusiasm that epitomised the early Beatles of his home town.

Round Mountain Girls performing Byron Bluesfest 2014

Round Mountain Girls
They are having such fun, you can’t help but smile!

[audio:https://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Faith_Mail_Chimp.mp3|titles=Faith|autostart=no]

Audio clip: Faith, from the Round Mountain Girls album, One Step Closer.

Text: Keep smiling

It is impossible not to get caught up in the enthusiasm, the energy, the raw joie de vivre that is live music –

But then, why would you want to resist it?

Keep smiling!

Pictures: 18-21April2014

  • Thomas - June 19, 2014 - 10:35 pm

    I always enjoy the photos, Ursula. The imbedded audio of performers I’ve not heard of before is an added treat. I do love being introduced to new roots music!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 19, 2014 - 11:55 pm

      Thanks! Always happy to have ‘company’ on my Wanders. ReplyCancel

  • Gabe Gajdatsy - June 19, 2014 - 11:07 pm

    Well done & brings back good memoriesReplyCancel

  • dietmut - June 26, 2014 - 8:28 am

    Ursula a beautiful en interesting report. I enjoyed this and the music too. Lovely dag en greetings, Dietmut

    http://dith-plukeenogenblikvandedag.blogspot.com/
    http://dith-eenkijkjeoverdegrens.blogspot.com/
    http://dietmut.blogspot.com/ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 26, 2014 - 9:28 am

      Thanks, Dietmut! We sure enjoyed it. More musical portraits will follow soon. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Antim - February 18, 2016 - 10:51 pm

    There’s something secpial about seeing music live instead of the more manufactured stuff on the radio etc.Liked Hat Fitz and Cara – and Ashleigh has a certain appeal. I remember Round Mountain Girls from your previous post or maybe posts.I can see the attraction of the Bluesfests.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - February 18, 2016 - 11:57 pm

      Thanks for your visit, Antim. Yes, live music is a treat – and Bluesfest is special. We’re looking forward to another great one this year.ReplyCancel

  • […] 25th anniversary (e.g.: Full Blast and Full Colour; The Sound of Sunshine; Musical Name-Dropping; Homegrown Favourites; Another Time and […]ReplyCancel

  • […] started our fourth festival morning with some choice Australian acts (Homegrown Favourites) before sampling performers from around the world in an assortment of musical […]ReplyCancel