Red candle with gold paint burning on an alter, Kaiyuan Temple Quanzhou China

Candle ~ Kaiyuan Temple ~ Quanzhou
Red, symbolising fire, is the colour of good fortune and joy in China. It is also wonderfully cheering on a gray, overcast day.

My husband is in China at the moment.

I am not. Such is life!

I shouldn’t complain too much; his absence gives me extra time to get to photos I haven’t yet processed… including those pictures I took when I tagged along on his last trip to China in April. We stayed in Xiamen (Amoy): regularly rated highly among China’s most-livable cities. It is a university town, with a lot to offer visitors (Watch this space!).

So, I could have cheerfully spent more time there. One day, however, my husband had to make the one-hour-plus trip to nearby Jinjiang, and I had the option to tag along. Not one to pass up an opportunity, I jumped at the chance.

“Why would you want to come to Jinjiang? Why don’t you stay in Xiamen?” asked one of my husband’s Chinese colleagues. “Even the locals are leaving!”

It is true: Jinjiang, Quanzhou, Fujian, in southeast China (not to be confused with Jinjiang, Chengdu, Sichuan, in the southwest – or any other Jinjiang that might exist in China) is known more for the large number of factories operating thanks to foreign-investments – manufacturing clothing and name-brand footwear, predominantly – than for its tourist appeal. The area attracts migrant labourers from around Fujian Province and beyond, who come to work on one-year contracts, often staying in barracks-like dormitories with few amenities and minimal landscaping. Bleak.

But, I like to visit places that are not necessarily on the main tourist trails. I enjoy being a traveller rather than a tourist. And – not that I “pull rank” – there is a real advantage in being a visiting-boss’s wife. I wasn’t left entirely to my own devices: I was given a driver for the day, and the driver was given a list of places of interest which mostly coincided with the places I had hoped to see. My lack of Mandarin and the driver’s lack of English meant that the list ruled, and I went where I was led.

Most of the places we visited were not in Jinjiang, but back across the river in Quanzhou.

Rubble in building lots on the streets of Jinjiang, Fujian China

Rubble
The outskirts of Jinjiang are replete with buildings coming down; work projects that have started and stalled.

View of Highrises from the highway across the Jin River, Jinjiang, Fujian China

High-Rises, Quanzhou
High-rises, low-rises, and concrete blocks – all under a gray sky that always feels like winter… This is one of the prevailing mental images I have of my times in China. As we cross the Jin River, a modern metropolis comes into view.

Front steps, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Quanzhou Longshan Temple
Built in the Sui (Xiyue) Huang Thai years (618-619), this temple complex is so important to the faithful that many who have migrated out of Jinjiang and Quanzhou (especially to Taiwan) make regular pilgrimages back.

Red Chinese Lanterns and a Blue plaque with gold calligraphy in the Eaves, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Lanterns and Inscriptions in the Eaves
Since this temple was built, other temples called “Longshan” have been constructed by migrants from Fujian Province to other parts of China and Taiwan. The first Longshan Temple in Taiwan was built from materials imported from Jinjiang.

Red candles burning on a metal wheel, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Candles and Prayers
Visitors to the temple worship a mixture of Buddhist and Taoist deities.

Courtyard and memorial stones, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Courtyard
It is hard to tell new buildings from old in the inner courtyards. Memorials to deceased ancestors line the side of one building.

 Traditional Chinese dragon and red, round roof tiles against a white sky, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Dragon on the Roof
The dragons and round roof tiles are such a distinctive feature of traditional Chinese architecture.

Young woman kneeling with joss sticks, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Prayers
Years of strict communist rule don’t seem to have impacted on the desire to pray for good fortune or guidance – even among the young.

Prayer Beads and Buddha images on red thread, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Prayer Beads and Bobbles
Talismans with Buddha images and carved prayers are readily available…

Religious Shopfront, Quanzhou Longshan Temple, Jinjiang China

Religious Shop
… as is anything else you might need for your religious practice or study.

Joss Sticks Burning in a large bowl, Guandi Temple, Quanzhou China

Joss Sticks Burning
There was smoke in the air and plenty of activity as we arrived at nearby Guandi Temple.

Guandi Temple under a tray sky, Quanzhou China

Guandi Temple
This large, ornate, Taoist temple is busy with local people coming to pray.

General, Guandi Temple, Quanzhou China

Revered General
Guandi Temple is dedicated to two Chinese generals, Guan Yu and Yue Fe.

Ritual joss paper furnace Guandi Temple, Quanzhou China

Ritual Furnace
Guandi Temple is known for the huge furnace designed for the ritual burning of joss paper.

Chinese man Burning Joss Paper, Ritual furnace Guandi Temple, Quanzhou China

Burning Joss Paper

Stone design, Ritual joss paper furnace Guandi Temple, Quanzhou China

Furnace Detail

Entry to Qingjing (Ashab) Mosque, Quanzhou China

Entry
Our next stop was at the 1000-year-old Qingjing (Ashab) Mosque.

Roof detail, Qingjing (Ashab) Mosque, Quanzhou China

Roof Detail
The mosque was restored in 2009. The clean lines and subdued colours of the the Arab-style building are in distinct contrast with the nearby Chinese temple architecture.

Crypts, Ashab Mosque, Quanzhou China

Crypts ~ Ashab Mosque
During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Quanzhou was a key foreign trade port and was home to a large international community: including Arab, Persian, and Indian Muslims.

Stonework with Arabic caligraphy, Ashab Qingjing Mosque, Quanzhou China

Ancient Stonework ~ Qingjing Mosque
The local Arab Muslim community maintains the mosque’s heritage and buildings.

Red cotton tree flower against green foliage, Quanzhou China

Bombax Ceiba
Back outside, the flowers were falling off the red cotton trees.

A Chinese restaurant condiment set in blue and white china, Quanzhou

Lunch Set
Our next stop was at a wonderful noodle shop, so dark I couldn’t have read the menus even if they had been in English. I ended up with a delicious, fragrant broth with broccoli and lotus root – and did my best to ignore my upbringing and slurp appreciatively.

Stonework Kaiyuan Temple, Quanzhou China

Stonework ~ Kaiyuan Temple
Delicate stonework decorates the walls around Fujian Province’s largest Buddhist temple complex.

Zhenguo East Pagoda Kaiyuan Temple

Zhenguo Pagoda
The Twin Pagodas at Kaiyuan Temple are the highest of China’s stone pagodas.

Detail: Ornate brass door handles outside the base of Zhenguo Pagoda,

Door Handles
A pair of marvellous creatures guard the entrance to the Zhenguo Pagoda.

Looking across the Gardens at the Kaiyuan Temple to the West Pagoda, Quanzhou China

Gardens ~ Looking towards Reshou Pagoda
The grounds in the Kaiyuan Temple compound are beautifully landscaped and maintained.

Hall of Mahavira Kaiyuan Temple, Quanzhou China

Mahavira Hall
Kaiyuan Temple was originally built in 685 or 686 during the Tang Dynasty. In the late 13th century, it was taken over by the Tamil Hindu community. Parts were rebuilt and dedicated to Lord Shiva. It was designated a national temple in 1983.

Buddhas in the Hall of MahaviraKaiyuan Temple, Quanzhou China

Buddhas in the Hall of Mahavira

Delicately painted frieze under the eaves of a roof, Kaiyuan Temple

Story Tiles
One of the buildings is covered in delicately painted stories…

Story carved into stone, Temple, Quanzhou China

Story Wall
… while elsewhere, carved panels tell tales.

Smal bells on a stone pagoda against a tray sky, Jinjiang, China

Bells
Mid-afternoon, we drove back across the river to Jinjiang, and up an impossibly steep and bumpy dirt road of blind corners and switch-backs to what was to be the penultimate stop: a modest modern temple perched on a cliff. The bells on the stone pagoda send prayers to the skies and overlook the factories below.

Two Chinese Buddhist monks and a lay man at a table, Jinjiang, China

Tea with the Monks
Jimmy the Driver and I were invited inside to have tea. I think Jimmy and the monks are old friends.

A Chinese Buddhist monk making tea, Jinjian, China.

Making Tea
Each small pot of tea took time, as the leaves were packed into the little pot…

Water being oared onto fresh tea leaves, Jinjiang China

Green Tea
… and the water was poured. The leaves were left to steep before the tea was strained into a glass pot, then served in small glass cups.

It’s those moments: sharing tea with monks, that make travelling with locals so precious. The hot tea perfectly capped off a damp, but richly rewarding day. My face was sore from smiling – both from enjoyment and from the need to communicate non-verbally.

Text: Happy TravelsThe irony is that I wanted to send a little something back with my husband for the driver, to express my appreciation for a day well spent. When we looked for souvenirs, the only reasonably-priced “Australian” trinkets we could find were “Made in China” – and quite possibly made in Jinjiang!

‘Till next time!

Pictures: 02April2014

  • Dietmutdi - November 6, 2014 - 11:33 am

    je echtgenoot is in China en dat geeft je extra ruimte. Mooi, zo kunnen wij van een heerlijk blogbericht van je genieten. En dat heb ik, genoten van je bericht en foto’s. Lieve groet, DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 6, 2014 - 1:02 pm

      Dank u voor uw bezoek , Deitmut . Ik zal blij zijn om hem naar huis te hebben. !ReplyCancel

Burmese woman sitting in front of large bags of rice, Market, Bagan Myanmar

Rice Seller
Another day in Southeast Asia, another market… another opportunity to meet and photograph the people.

“Same, same… but different.”

This common Thai expression is one that perfectly sums up my perception of markets in Southeast Asia: they are the “same”, in that they are all densely packed environments full of colours, people, sounds, smells and (usually) oppressive heat. Often wet and uneven underfoot, they are a warren of activity that can be overwhelming for the visitor.

And, they are all “different”. Whether the difference is subtle or distinctive, each has a local flavour: the layout of the stalls, the faces of the people, the goods on sale. While some feature edible insects (e.g. Morning Markets and Bugs for Lunch, Cambodia), others specialise in flowers (e.g. Pyin Oo Lwin Flower Markets, MyanmarFragrant Flowers … Battambang Market, Cambodia). You can buy talismans (e.g. Golden Treasures of the Old City ~ Bangkok) or money: shaped into trees (e.g. Morning Markets ~ Attapeu, Laos) or butterflies (e.g. Three Markets ~ Three Countries (Thailand, Myanmar, Laos: Golden Triangle)) – and you can usually find plenty of local meat and produce (e.g. Another Morning Market ~ Mandalay, Myanmar).

Photographically, they are a challenge: the light is almost always tricky, with streaks of bright sunshine contrasting starkly with dark, shaded corners. Shade-cloths in ghastly green and bilious yellow cast unwelcome hues across the faces of the customers and vendors.

Markets – I love them!

As testing as the conditions might be, southeast asian markets are a rich source of photographic – especially portrait – material (e.g. Portraits ~ Bago Local Market and The People of Shwezigon Pagoda, Myanmar).

One morning on my trip around Myanmar – two years ago now – with Photographer Karl Grobl and local guide Mr MM, we stopped at two local markets. I’ve checked my notes, and beyond knowing that we were in the Bagan area somewhere, I have no idea which markets we were in. But, as is the case with most markets I have visited, the faces were open and the people were willing to be photographed.

Burmese man Distilling Whiskey, Bagan Myanmar

Distilling Whiskey
The first “market” we stopped at was little more than an elaborate bamboo shelter. Some local crafts and coconut products were on sale, but the main purpose seemed to be the distillation and sale of local whiskey.

Burmese Man in a longhi with a metal pot, Bagan

Man with Metal Pot
The whiskey maker in his longhi proudly shows us one of the local pots.

Whiskey-Medicine Bottles, Bagan, Myanmar

Whiskey-Medicine Bottles
The whiskey is bottled with some sort of dried wood, and used medicinally.

Burmese man with a bottle of local Whiskey, Bagan Myanmar

Taste-Testing Local Whiskey
You can sample the wares before you buy.

Burmese man, Bagan Myanmar

Whisky Vendor
I passed up the taste-test: it was not yet ten o’clock in the morning, and the day was already searing hot and bright. Even a small shot of local brew would probably have finished me off!

Burmese Man with Straw Flower, Bagan, Myanmar

Man with Straw Flower
Grasses are woven into flowers, insects and birds for sale.

Close-up: Straw Flowers, Myanmar

Straw Flowers

Burmese Girl seated on the dirt, Eating Breakfast, Bagan

Girl Eating Breakfast
Families live and work together. While the whiskey is cooking, a young girl eats her rice.

Burmese Girl, Bagan, Myanmar

Burmese Girl

Old burmese Man and a white cow on a millstone , Bagan

Cow at the Mill
Just outside, in a spot of dappled shade, an older man supervises a bovine-operated millstone.

Old burmese Man and a white Bull , Bagan

Man and his Cow
The old man is happy to be photographed; the cow, a little less so.

Our next stop was at a “city” market, nestled into the Bagan streets. A much more structured complex, with brick walls and roofing of wood, woven bamboo and plastic sheeting, this market with its large bags of rice and other grains piled high, targets bulk-buyers.

Burmese people Selling Grain, Bagan market

Selling Grain
The buying and selling of grain is a serious business.

Hands with white Rice, began market, Myanmar

Checking the Rice
Purchasers check the quality of the products carefully…

two burmese women in a rice market, Bagan, Myanmar

Negotiating
… and haggle over prices and quantities before recording sales.

Bags of Rice, Bagan Market

Bags of Rice

Female Rice Sellers, Bagan Market

Rice Sellers
Women smile at me as the deals are entered into the books.

Burmese man in a shop with a set of scales, Bagan, Myanmar

Apothecary
In a shop full of arcane herbs, a man stands ready with his scales.

Portrait of a smiling burmese woman, Bagan, Mynmar

Market Portrait
A typical burmese woman: thanaka powder on her face, flowers in her hair, and a big smile for the visitor.

Burmese Man sitting among baskets of Tomatoes, Bagan market, Myanmar

Man in the Tomatoes
Wearing his white shirt and longhi, with traces of Betel nut around his mouth, a typical burmese man gives a smile for the camera.

Green plastic Canopy over grain markets, Bagan, Myanmar

The Canopy
The green tarp over the roadways between the buildings casts a sickly light over the products and merchants inside.

Hands spearing an orange stem, Bagan Markets, Myanmar

Hands at Work
It is fascinating people-watching in the markets; they alternate effortlessly between activity …

Burmese Man in a Bagan Market, Myanmar

Man in the Market
… and ease.

Portrait of a smiling burmese woman, Bagan, Mynmar

Market Portrait
Another typical smiling burmese woman in her thanaka powder.

Young Man in the Market, Bagan, Mynmar

Young Man in the Market

Portrait of a Young Woman in the Bagan Market, Myanmar

Another Gorgeous Smile

Two young men pushing a large trolley outside the Market, Bagan  Myanmar

Outside the Market
In a dirt street outside the main market, young workers push an empty trolley away.

Text: Keep smilingI could always stay longer in any Asian market…

I spend very little money, and the smiles are always free. Perfect, really.

Until next time,

Keep smiling!

Pictures: 19September2012

  • Dietmut - October 24, 2014 - 6:22 am

    beautiful series Ursula. Very nice stars. Nice weekend en warm greetings, DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - October 24, 2014 - 6:40 am

      Greetings, Dietmut,
      I’m so glad you enjoyed the post. Cheers! 😀ReplyCancel

The dimly-lit Marie-Louise Reservoir at the Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

The Marie-Louise Reservoir
There is a natural beauty in this old reservoir, dug out of the Bex countryside by hammer and chisel in the 1800s.

Salt.

“Worth ones salt.” To be of value; worth ones pay. The English word “salary” comes from the Latin salarium (where sal is Latin for salt), thought to have been the allowance given to Roman soldiers to buy salt.

Since time immemorial, salt – sodium chloride (NaCl) – has been recognised for its critical importance to the life of humans and animals alike. Before the invention of canning and refrigeration, salting food was the principle means of preserving it.

“You [good Christians] are the salt of the earth”, Matthew (5:13) attributes to Jesus, where salt is a preserver, an enhancer – necessary to a healthy life.

So, in the days before a salt shaker on every table, where did people acquire this essential commodity?

In coastal areas, salt can be mass-produced by evaporation of seawater or brine from brine wells and salt lakes (see: Salt! Samut Sakhon, Thailand).

In regions away from the sea, it has to be imported, or mined – which, prior to the Industrial Revolution, was a difficult and dangerous task, often performed by slaves or prisoners. Hence, the expression: “back to the salt mines” for the return to an arduous or unpleasant job.

Why my preoccupation with salt?

Well, we were in the Swiss Alps this summer and meant to be walking among the peaks and meadows… But it rained. And rained. We were staying in a tiny village that didn’t offer a lot of bad-weather recreation, so – on the advice of a local – we hopped on a couple of trains and took ourselves to the nearby municipality of Bex for a tour of the Bex Salt Mines. That way, our informant told us, we’d be out of the wet!

Switzerland is, of course, land-locked. Before the discovery of salt deposits near Bex in the 15th century, the precious substance had to be transported from foreign suppliers over the mountains at great expense. The finding of the salt springs is attributed to a local shepherd, but it was the Bernese invaders to the region who, in 1475, started boiling the water from these slightly saline springs, rendering the salt through evaporation.

Excavation of the springs began in ernest in 1684. Over time, periodic digs resulted in the vast maze of passages, shafts, stairs and gigantic caverns, extending almost 50 kilometres, under the villages of Villars, Chesières and Arveyes, that exists today. The mine still operates, producing salt and salt-based products as well as generating electricity. It also operates as a historical tourist facility and a function centre.

After we arrived at the Bex Railway Station, I tested my French and procured two coffees and a map. The skies cleared sufficiently, so with our raincoats and umbrellas, we set off through the town and along the cross-country walking trails to the Salt Mines.

Flower pot on a light pole; Central Street in Bex, Switzerland, in the background.

Central Street in Bex
A typical small Swiss town view: hanging flower baskets, a church spire, and quaint roofs – and mountains as a backdrop.

Church, Bex Vaud , Switzerland.

Le Temple de Bex
Built on the site of a 12th century Catholic church dedicated to St. Clément I, the Protestant church that now commands the centre of town was started in the 16th century – after the Reformation.

Large manor House on the Grand Eau, Bex Vaud, Switzerland

House on le Grand Eau
The land was green and wet as we walked along the Avançon River.

Sculpture Garden on the Grand Eau, Bex Vaud, Switzerland

Sculpture Garden
As we continued into the hills, we came across an unmarked garden, dotted with sculptures.

Chemin Randonnée Pedéstre, walkway,  Bex Vaud, Switzerland

Into the Woods
Soon we were off the roads and onto the pathways. The chip-bark underfoot was lovely – especially given the wet weather, and some of the very steep inclines.

Chemin Randonnée Pedéstre, walkway,  Bex Vaud, Switzerland

Chemin Randonnée Pedéstre
Coming across signposting is always encouraging, especially as the walk was much longer than we were led to believe: 8 kilometres rather than 5-6, and rather hilly.

Signpost: "Vous êtes le sel de la terre"

Vous êtes le sel de la terre – Matthieu, V-13-16
Ainsi soit-il et respectons la peine d’autrui, les cultures, la vigne et le dur ouvrage de nos ancêtres.
You are the salt of the earth – Matthew, 5:13-16
So be it and respect the worth of others, crops, vines and hard work of our ancestors.

Cow and Chalet in the Vines, Bex Vaud, Switzerland

Cow in the Vines
The low-toned chimes of cow bells greeted us as we commenced a long traverse across the vineyards after coming out of the woods.

A view over the vines and villages, Bex Vaud, Switzerland

Vinyards
As we walked around the hill, we had views over the valleys and villages of Vaud.

Mine Entry, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Mine Entry
Finally! We came out of the vines, through more woods and down into the Bex Salt Mine, in time to pick up the tickets we had booked by phone, and wait for our guide. Tours frequently sell out – especially in wet weather.

The Round Reservoir, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Reservoir Rond
After we take our seats in The Round Reservoir we are shown a 15 minute video about the history of the mine – in French with difficult-to-read subtitles in German, Italian and English.

The dimly-lit Marie-Louise Reservoir, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Reservoir Marie-Louise
The second chamber we entered was the beautiful Marie-Louise Reservoir. The giant 1,500 cubic meter cavern, supported by columns, was named for Empress Marie Louise of France, Napoleon’s second wife. She visited the site in 1814 after Napoleon was already in exile.

Looking down a Mine Shaft, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Looking Down the Shaft
Started in 1743, the digging-out of the 215 meter-deep Bouillet Shaft took 26 years of manual labour using only hammers and chisels.

People in the narrow Train carriage, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

The Train
We all climb into small train carriages at the Gare de Puits and the trains take us 1500 meters to the heart of the mine.

Wooden stair rails in a dimly-lit tunnel, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Tunnels
When we alight the train, more tunnels lead through the mine…

Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Trolley
… past anhydrite (dehydrated gypsum) walls and old utensils.

The Wine Cellar, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

The Wine Cellar
The temperature in the Salle René Burnier is a stable 17° C all year round, making it a perfect place for the local vintners to store the fruits of the local harvest – under lock and key, of course.

Stairs winding down to the Salle des Gradins, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Stairs
More stairs wind down to the Salle des Gradins

Guide, Salle des Gradins, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Salle des Gradins
… where our guide explains the workings of the modern drill systems.

Old lamp, Salle du Talon, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Salle du Talon
Old lamps, with examples from the 15th …

Old lamp, Salle du Talon, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

The Museum
… to the 20th C, hang on display.

Miner

Miner’s Locker
The Salle du Talon includes an authentic miner’s locker room. In the next rooms, the Puits de la Tranchée, examples of the tools used by the various craftsmen involved in salt extraction and production are laid out on show.

Display of salt crystals, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Salt
There are various displays, artworks, exhibits, and interactive activities for the children.

People in the narrow Train carriage, Bex Salt Mine, Switzerland

Train
The tour lasts two hours, but it doesn’t seem that long. Soon it is time to get back into the train carriages and return to the surface.

Farmhouse under cloud, Bex, Switzerland

Into the Storm
Laden with fragrant salts we had purchased from the crowded shop, we walked back to the train station via the roadways, saving time and distance – making it back just before the skies opened once more.

Text: Happy TravelsIt was an enjoyable and educational experience – one I’d highly recommend.

It certainly beat walking in the alps in the rain!

‘Till next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 21July2014

  • Dietmut - October 24, 2014 - 6:24 am

    interesting photos of the sel mine. I have heared that in Polen a very great and beautiful sel mine is. Greetings DietmutReplyCancel

    • Ursula - October 24, 2014 - 6:44 am

      Hi Dietmut,
      Thanks for your visit. It was a fascinating and beautiful place.
      Cheers, UrsulaReplyCancel

Ladram Bay Beach and Rock Stacks, East Devon, UK

Triassic Sea Stacks
Desert-red rocks from the days of the dinosaurs rise out of the waters of Ladram Bay on the Jurassic Coast, East Devon.

It’s an old, old landscape…  as old as the dinosaurs…

The exposed cliffs of the Jurassic Coast in southern England stretch 155 km across East Devon and Dorset and span 185 million years of the geological and fossil history. Britain’s first natural World Heritage site, it was designated the “Devon Heritage Coast” by UNESCO in 2001: “The coastal exposures along the Dorset and East Devon coast provide an almost continuous sequence of Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous rock formations spanning the Mesozoic Era and document approximately 185 million years of Earth’s history.”

The seaside city of Exmouth is at the westernmost gateway to The Coast. From nearby Orcombe Point, you can join the South West Coast Path and walk along the top of the cliffs.

Much as I know I would love the walk, we ran out of time on our visit to Devon this past Northern summer. We did, however, enjoy a boat trip from Exmouth (Stuart Line Cruises) along some of this magnificent, predominantly undeveloped, coastline.

Fisherman on the rocks at the Exmouth Seawall, UK

Fisherman at the Seawall
The skies are overcast as we make our way along the Exmouth Seawall to the boat dock in the distance.

Passengers on the upper deck of a boat, Stuart Line CruisesExmouth, UK

Stuart Line Cruises
Passengers are already seated on the upper deck of the Pride of Exmouth when we arrive.

Landscape: Orcombe Point  under a blue sky, Exmouth, UK

Orcombe Point
The clouds lift, the sky turns blue, and we watch as Orcombe Point, the official start of the Jurassic Coast, comes closer.

Geoneedle on Orcombe Point, seen from the water, Exmouth, UK

Geoneedle on Orcombe Point
It is almost impossible to see at this distance, but high on the cliffs is a pyramidal “Geoneedle”. Designed by sculptor Michael Fairfax, the work – which marks the start of the Devon Heritage Coast – is constructed from the different stones that make up the region.The lines in the cliff-face, dipping to the east, clearly show the tilt in the landmass. In general, Great Britain is rising up in the north and sinking in the south. The Jurassic Coast tilts slightly to the east, so erosion has exposed the oldest rocks here at Orcombe Point, and progressively younger cliffs towards Dorset.

Triassic Coast at Orcombe Point, seen from the water, Exmouth, UK

Triassic Coast
The rocky cliffs around Exmouth are a magnificent red: desert sandstone from the Triassic period, 250-200 million years ago.

Sandy Bay from the water, Jurassic Coast, Exmouth, UK

Sandy Bay
It is a bit sad calling this “Sandy Bay” after the violent storms during the winter of 2013-14 washed most of the sand away.

Triassic Coast at Orcombe Point, seen from the water, Exmouth, UK

Triassic Cliffs ~ Straight Point
A line of guano contrasts dramatically with the rough, eroded cliffs at the east end of Sandy Bay.

Cormorants, Sandy Bay, Jurassic Coast, Exmouth, UK

Cormorants
Oblivious to our passing, waterbirds sit on the bluffs, watching out to sea.

Red Flags Flying on the shooting range, Straight Point, Jurassic Coast, Exmouth, UK

Flags Flying ~ Straight Point
Once we round the point, the flags go up on the Royal Marine Shooting Range, indicating that the firing range is now in use.

Red cliffs of the eastern Jurassic Coast, Exmouth, UK

Cottages on the Top
The cottages of Devon Cliffs Holiday Park cling to the top of the cliffs; greenery clings to the sides.

Red cliffs of Otter Cove, Jurassic Coast, UK

Otter Cove
The 245 million-year-old red mudstone and sandstone cliffs around Otter Cove are ridged and pockmarked.

Bath Houses Budleigh Salterton

Bath Houses
Towards the east end of the pebble beach around Otter Cove, we come to the small coastal town of Budleigh Salterton.

 Budleigh Salterton

Apartments and Bath Houses
The waters around Budleigh Salterton are sheltered, and water sports are clearly popular.

The Bluff, East Devon UK

The Bluff
Bounded on the east by the mouth of the Otter River, the estuary near Budleigh Salterton is a haven for migratory birds

The Bluff, East Devon UK

Fog on the Bluffs
As we continue east, fog rolls in …

Ladram Bay in the fog, East Devon UK

Fog
… enveloping the cliffs around Ladram Bay.

Ladram Bay in the fog, East Devon UK

Ladram Bay
Ladram Bay is home to one of England’s largest holiday parks.

Boat Skipper entering Ladram Bay in the fog, East Devon UK

Our Skipper
Wisps of fog wind around us and the sandstone rock stacks as our skipper guides us into Ladram Bay.

Rock stacks in Ladram Bay, East Devon, UK

Rock Stacks in Ladram Bay
Red from the iron oxide in the triassic “Otter Sandstone”, erosion has worked its wonders on the vertical fractures and joints in the earth’s layers to produce these sea stacks. We were reminded of our visit to the “Twelve Apostles” in southern Australia earlier in the year.

 Ladram Bay Beach and Rock Stacks, East Devon UK

Ladram Bay Beach and Rock Stacks
These ancient rocky stacks and cliffs are the richest source of Triassic reptile fossil remains in Britain.

The Jurassic Coast, East Devon UK

The Coast
Fog curls out behind us as we turn around and work our way back along the coast.

Sea Kayaks on the English Channel, East Devon UK

Sea Kayaks
A pair of sea kayaks bob around on the waters – insignificant against the expanse of the English Channel.

Exmouth seawall and Waterfront from the water, Devon UK

Exmouth Waterfront
Too soon we are back at Exmouth’s seawall and the candy-coloured houses lining The Esplanade along the waterfront.

Exmouth Pier

Exmouth Pier

View over the Mouth of the River Ex, Exmouth Devon UK

Mouth of the River Ex
Walking up the hill to our accommodation, we watch the boats head back out on a changing tide.

According to its own press, “The Dorset and East Devon Coast has been officially ranked alongside the Great Barrier Reef and the Grand Canyon as one of the natural wonders of the world.” I can’t argue with that! The small portion which we saw was certainly magnificent.

Text: Safe SailingWe’re heading back next summer, when we can (hopefully) visit a bit more of this dramatic coastline.

‘Till then ~ 

Safe Sailing!

Pictures: 16July2014

Pergola on Gulangy, Xiamen in the fog, Fujian China

Pergola on the Point
A delicate pergola on one of the many rocky points on Gulangyu Island allows views (albeit foggy) of Xiamen across the water.

Gulangyu. “Drum Wave Islet”.

Named for the sound that the waves make as they roll off the Taiwan Strait and hit the off-shore reefs and rocks, Gulangyu Island is a delightful place. Just a short ferry ride from downtown Xiamen, in the south east of the People’s Republic of China, it is a popular destination for local visitors.

Gulangyu’s charming pedestrian-only streets are filled with traditional Chinese buildings and gardens, intermingled with Victorian-era European architecture dating back to colonial days. Following China’s loss in the First Opium War (1839–42), Xiamen became one of five treaty ports established under the 1842 Treaty of Nanking. Rich overseas Chinese and foreign nationals from 13 countries – including Great BritainFrance and Japan – built mansions, churches, consulates, and public buildings on Gulangyu, which was officially designated an International Settlement in 1903.

The island is only 1.78 square kilometres in size, so it is easy to get around the maze of lanes and walkways. But there are plenty of things to see and do: locally renowned for it’s natural beauty, it also has numerous museums and other attractions. We bought the combined ferry + 10 attractions ticket for ¥100 (less the $20) and did our best to visit as much as we could…

View from the overpass, Xiamen, to Gulangyu Island, China

Gulangyu Island
It is a hazy day, and the view from the moving taxi across the waters of Xiamen Port to Gulangyu Island is murky.

Gulangyu Island Map

Gulangyu Island Map
In theory, it is a short hop from Xiamen to Gulangyu. In practice, the island is extremely popular with local visitors. When we arrived at the ferry terminal, there were crowds of people queued in numerous lines everywhere. Very little signage was in English and it took us a while to work out which line we belonged in!

Ferry, Xiamen Port, Fujian China

Ferry
Xiamen Port is a busy waterway, with a number of different working wharfs along the waterfront.

Passenger cruise boat,  Xiamen Port, Fujian China

Passenger Cruise Boat
Some boats offer scenic cruises around the islands.

A crowd of Asian heads, seen from the back as people get off a ferry, Gulangyu Island, Fujian China

The Masses
The herding of people on and off the ferries is actually quite quick and efficient.

Gulangyu, Fujian China

Boat Dock
Xiamen is an important business hub, as can be seen by the glossy, modern buildings in the misty distance.

Leather Elephant Art in a shop, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Leather Elephant Art
You could spend all day wandering around the numerous arts and crafts shops.

Rock Formations on the foreshore, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Rock Formations
The locals come to explore the rocks on the foreshore …

Toddler playing in the sand, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Sand Play
… or to play in the sand with new buckets and spades bought from the hawkers nearby.

Young Chinese Women posing for pictures on the Rocks, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Young Women on the Rocks
Posing for pictures is always part of a day out with friends.

Two men painting the view, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Artists at Work

Statue of Zheng Chenggong on Fuding Rock, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Fuding Rock
A statue of Zheng Chenggong, or Koxinga, a Chinese military leader of Ming forces who defended against the Manchu conquerors in the 1650s, stands high on Fuding Rock.

Statue of Zheng Chenggong on Fuding Rock, Gulangyu, Fujian China

General Zheng Chenggong
The giant statue is 15.7 meters tall and weighs in at 1400 tons. The general drove the Dutch out of Taiwan in the 1660s, and so is a hero to the people there as well.

Close-up on the statue of Zheng Chenggong, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Zheng Chenggong
This tribute was carved from 625 pieces of white granite quarried from Zheng Chenggong’s hometown of nearby Quanzhou.

Gold calligraphy on polished black granite, Gulangyu, Fujian China

The Poems of Zheng Chenggong
The General’s poems are represented in beautiful calligraphy in celebratory gardens.

Sculpture: "Driving away the Invaders", Gulangyu, Fujian China

“Driving away the Invaders”
Zheng Chenggong’s victories are memorialised in sculptures around the gardens.

A woman Cooking Squid, Food Street,

Cooking Squid
Locals consider the food on Gulangyu pretty special. A woman in a stall on “Food Street” prepares seafood to order.

Pictoral Menu on a plastic tablecloth, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Lunch Menu
We found a sheltered restaurant out of the midday heat. The pictures on the tablecloths allowed us to order our food with some confidence.

Books in white granite, with sayings of Dr Lin Qiaozhi, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Sayings of Dr Lin Qiaozhi
The island has been home to some famous people. Dr Lin Qiaozhi, pre-eminent pioneering doctor of gynecology and obstetrics, was born here. Quotes from her writings surround the house that is now a museum in tribute.

Picture of Dr Lin Qiaozhi Linqiaozhi Memorial Hall, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Dr Lin Qiaozhi Linqiaozhi
The pictures, clippings and memorabilia in the Memorial Hall tell the story of a remarkable woman. She trained in Beijing, England and the US, and revolutionized modern Chinese gynecology and oncology.

People on the walkways, Shuzhuang Garden, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Shuzhuang Garden
The island may be small, but there are miles of walkways meandering through the gardens and over the water. Shuzhuang Garden was originally built in 1931 as a private villa, but was opened to the public in 1955. It is divided into two parts: the Garden of Hiding the Sea (Canghaiyuan) (pictured) and the Garden of Making-Up Hills (Bushanyuan).

Piano Museum, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Piano Museum
There are several exhibits and museums on the island, with two dedicated to musical instruments: Gulangyu Organ Museum, and this one filled with pianos, including rare examples from the 1800s. There are said to be over 200 pianos on what the locals call “The Island of Music”.

A family sits for their photo at the Entry to Sunlight Rock, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Entry to Sunlight Rock
A family sits for their photo before climbing up to Sunlight Rock, the highest point on the island.

Crag of SunlightSunlight Rock, Gulangyu, Fujian China

“Crag of Sunlight”
In the heat of the day, it is a hard climb up the steps …

Reflective sphere, Sunlight Rock, Gulangyu, Fujian China

The Peak
… to the 92.7 metre summit of Sunlight Rock, …

View over Gulangyu from Sunlight Rock, Fujian China

View over Gulangyu
… but the 360º views over the island – and beyond – are worth it.

Richly coloured wall on a small street, Gulangyu, Fujian China

Architecture
Some of the old buildings along the narrow streets are empty shells – others are renovated as shops, housing, and restaurants.

Boats on the waters of Xiamen Port, Fujian China

Boats on the Crossing
In the afternoon, the waters of Xiamen Port are still busy …

On The Ferry from Gulangyu to Xiamen, Fujian China

The Ferry Home
… as we make our way back to Xiamen.

Text: Happy TravelsIt was a full day – and there was still much more we could have seen and done. If I had the chance to go back, I’d do what one TripAdvisor reviewer suggested, and stay overnight – enjoying the peace of the evening after the day-trippers have gone home.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 05April2014