Candle ~ Kaiyuan Temple ~ Quanzhou Red, symbolising fire, is the colour of good fortune and joy in China. It is also wonderfully cheering on a gray, overcast day.
My husband is in China at the moment.
I am not. Such is life!
I shouldn’t complain too much; his absence gives me extra time to get to photos I haven’t yet processed… including those pictures I took when I tagged along on his last trip to China in April. We stayed in Xiamen (Amoy): regularly rated highly among China’s most-livable cities. It is a university town, with a lot to offer visitors (Watch this space!).
So, I could have cheerfully spent more time there. One day, however, my husband had to make the one-hour-plus trip to nearby Jinjiang, and I had the option to tag along. Not one to pass up an opportunity, I jumped at the chance.
“Why would you want to come to Jinjiang? Why don’t you stay in Xiamen?” asked one of my husband’s Chinese colleagues. “Even the locals are leaving!”
It is true: Jinjiang, Quanzhou, Fujian, in southeast China (not to be confused with Jinjiang, Chengdu, Sichuan, in the southwest – or any other Jinjiang that might exist in China) is known more for the large number of factories operating thanks to foreign-investments – manufacturing clothing and name-brand footwear, predominantly – than for its tourist appeal. The area attracts migrant labourers from around Fujian Province and beyond, who come to work on one-year contracts, often staying in barracks-like dormitories with few amenities and minimal landscaping. Bleak.
But, I like to visit places that are not necessarily on the main tourist trails. I enjoy being a traveller rather than a tourist. And – not that I “pull rank” – there is a real advantage in being a visiting-boss’s wife. I wasn’t left entirely to my own devices: I was given a driver for the day, and the driver was given a list of places of interest which mostly coincided with the places I had hoped to see. My lack of Mandarin and the driver’s lack of English meant that the list ruled, and I went where I was led.
Most of the places we visited were not in Jinjiang, but back across the river in Quanzhou.
Rubble The outskirts of Jinjiang are replete with buildings coming down; work projects that have started and stalled.
High-Rises, Quanzhou High-rises, low-rises, and concrete blocks – all under a gray sky that always feels like winter… This is one of the prevailing mental images I have of my times in China. As we cross the Jin River, a modern metropolis comes into view.
Quanzhou Longshan Temple Built in the Sui (Xiyue) Huang Thai years (618-619), this temple complex is so important to the faithful that many who have migrated out of Jinjiang and Quanzhou (especially to Taiwan) make regular pilgrimages back.
Lanterns and Inscriptions in the Eaves Since this temple was built, other temples called “Longshan” have been constructed by migrants from Fujian Province to other parts of China and Taiwan. The first Longshan Temple in Taiwan was built from materials imported from Jinjiang.
Candles and Prayers Visitors to the temple worship a mixture of Buddhist and Taoist deities.
Courtyard It is hard to tell new buildings from old in the inner courtyards. Memorials to deceased ancestors line the side of one building.
Dragon on the Roof The dragons and round roof tiles are such a distinctive feature of traditional Chinese architecture.
Prayers Years of strict communist rule don’t seem to have impacted on the desire to pray for good fortune or guidance – even among the young.
Prayer Beads and Bobbles Talismans with Buddha images and carved prayers are readily available…
Religious Shop … as is anything else you might need for your religious practice or study.
Joss Sticks Burning There was smoke in the air and plenty of activity as we arrived at nearby Guandi Temple.
Guandi Temple This large, ornate, Taoist temple is busy with local people coming to pray.
Revered General Guandi Temple is dedicated to two Chinese generals, Guan Yu and Yue Fe.
Ritual Furnace Guandi Temple is known for the huge furnace designed for the ritual burning of joss paper.
Burning Joss Paper
Furnace Detail
Entry Our next stop was at the 1000-year-old Qingjing (Ashab) Mosque.
Roof Detail The mosque was restored in 2009. The clean lines and subdued colours of the the Arab-style building are in distinct contrast with the nearby Chinese temple architecture.
Crypts ~ Ashab Mosque During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Quanzhou was a key foreign trade port and was home to a large international community: including Arab, Persian, and Indian Muslims.
Ancient Stonework ~ Qingjing Mosque The local Arab Muslim community maintains the mosque’s heritage and buildings.
Bombax Ceiba Back outside, the flowers were falling off the red cotton trees.
Lunch Set Our next stop was at a wonderful noodle shop, so dark I couldn’t have read the menus even if they had been in English. I ended up with a delicious, fragrant broth with broccoli and lotus root – and did my best to ignore my upbringing and slurp appreciatively.
Stonework ~ Kaiyuan Temple Delicate stonework decorates the walls around Fujian Province’s largest Buddhist temple complex.
Zhenguo Pagoda The Twin Pagodas at Kaiyuan Temple are the highest of China’s stone pagodas.
Door Handles A pair of marvellous creatures guard the entrance to the Zhenguo Pagoda.
Gardens ~ Looking towards Reshou Pagoda The grounds in the Kaiyuan Temple compound are beautifully landscaped and maintained.
Mahavira Hall Kaiyuan Temple was originally built in 685 or 686 during the Tang Dynasty. In the late 13th century, it was taken over by the Tamil Hindu community. Parts were rebuilt and dedicated to Lord Shiva. It was designated a national temple in 1983.
Buddhas in the Hall of Mahavira
Story Tiles One of the buildings is covered in delicately painted stories…
Story Wall … while elsewhere, carved panels tell tales.
Bells Mid-afternoon, we drove back across the river to Jinjiang, and up an impossibly steep and bumpy dirt road of blind corners and switch-backs to what was to be the penultimate stop: a modest modern temple perched on a cliff. The bells on the stone pagoda send prayers to the skies and overlook the factories below.
Tea with the Monks Jimmy the Driver and I were invited inside to have tea. I think Jimmy and the monks are old friends.
Making Tea Each small pot of tea took time, as the leaves were packed into the little pot…
Green Tea … and the water was poured. The leaves were left to steep before the tea was strained into a glass pot, then served in small glass cups.
It’s those moments: sharing tea with monks, that make travelling with locals so precious. The hot tea perfectly capped off a damp, but richly rewarding day. My face was sore from smiling – both from enjoyment and from the need to communicate non-verbally.
The irony is that I wanted to send a little something back with my husband for the driver, to express my appreciation for a day well spent. When we looked for souvenirs, the only reasonably-priced “Australian” trinkets we could find were “Made in China” – and quite possibly made in Jinjiang!
je echtgenoot is in China en dat geeft je extra ruimte. Mooi, zo kunnen wij van een heerlijk blogbericht van je genieten. En dat heb ik, genoten van je bericht en foto’s. Lieve groet, DietmutReplyCancel
Rice Seller Another day in Southeast Asia, another market… another opportunity to meet and photograph the people.
“Same, same… but different.”
This common Thai expression is one that perfectly sums up my perception of markets in Southeast Asia: they are the “same”, in that they are all densely packed environments full of colours, people, sounds, smells and (usually) oppressive heat. Often wet and uneven underfoot, they are a warren of activity that can be overwhelming for the visitor.
Photographically, they are a challenge: the light is almost always tricky, with streaks of bright sunshine contrasting starkly with dark, shaded corners. Shade-cloths in ghastly green and bilious yellow cast unwelcome hues across the faces of the customers and vendors.
One morning on my trip around Myanmar – two years ago now – with Photographer Karl Grobl and local guide Mr MM, we stopped at two local markets. I’ve checked my notes, and beyond knowing that we were in the Bagan area somewhere, I have no idea which markets we were in. But, as is the case with most markets I have visited, the faces were open and the people were willing to be photographed.
Distilling Whiskey The first “market” we stopped at was little more than an elaborate bamboo shelter. Some local crafts and coconut products were on sale, but the main purpose seemed to be the distillation and sale of local whiskey.
Man with Metal Pot The whiskey maker in his longhi proudly shows us one of the local pots.
Whiskey-Medicine Bottles The whiskey is bottled with some sort of dried wood, and used medicinally.
Taste-Testing Local Whiskey You can sample the wares before you buy.
Whisky Vendor I passed up the taste-test: it was not yet ten o’clock in the morning, and the day was already searing hot and bright. Even a small shot of local brew would probably have finished me off!
Man with Straw Flower Grasses are woven into flowers, insects and birds for sale.
Straw Flowers
Girl Eating Breakfast Families live and work together. While the whiskey is cooking, a young girl eats her rice.
Burmese Girl
Cow at the Mill Just outside, in a spot of dappled shade, an older man supervises a bovine-operated millstone.
Man and his Cow The old man is happy to be photographed; the cow, a little less so.
Our next stop was at a “city” market, nestled into the Bagan streets. A much more structured complex, with brick walls and roofing of wood, woven bamboo and plastic sheeting, this market with its large bags of rice and other grains piled high, targets bulk-buyers.
Selling Grain The buying and selling of grain is a serious business.
Checking the Rice Purchasers check the quality of the products carefully…
Negotiating … and haggle over prices and quantities before recording sales.
Bags of Rice
Rice Sellers Women smile at me as the deals are entered into the books.
Apothecary In a shop full of arcane herbs, a man stands ready with his scales.
Market Portrait A typical burmese woman: thanaka powder on her face, flowers in her hair, and a big smile for the visitor.
Man in the Tomatoes Wearing his white shirt and longhi, with traces of Betel nut around his mouth, a typical burmese man gives a smile for the camera.
The Canopy The green tarp over the roadways between the buildings casts a sickly light over the products and merchants inside.
Hands at Work It is fascinating people-watching in the markets; they alternate effortlessly between activity …
Man in the Market … and ease.
Market Portrait Another typical smiling burmese woman in her thanaka powder.
Young Man in the Market
Another Gorgeous Smile
Outside the Market In a dirt street outside the main market, young workers push an empty trolley away.
I could always stay longer in any Asian market…
I spend very little money, and the smiles are always free. Perfect, really.
The Marie-Louise Reservoir There is a natural beauty in this old reservoir, dug out of the Bex countryside by hammer and chisel in the 1800s.
Salt.
“Worth ones salt.” To be of value; worth ones pay. The English word “salary” comes from the Latin salarium (where sal is Latin for salt), thought to have been the allowance given to Roman soldiers to buy salt.
Since time immemorial, salt – sodium chloride (NaCl) – has been recognised for its critical importance to the life of humans and animals alike. Before the invention of canning and refrigeration, salting food was the principle means of preserving it.
“You [good Christians] are the salt of the earth”, Matthew (5:13) attributes to Jesus, where salt is a preserver, an enhancer – necessary to a healthy life.
So, in the days before a salt shaker on every table, where did people acquire this essential commodity?
In coastal areas, salt can be mass-produced by evaporation of seawater or brine from brine wells and salt lakes (see: Salt! Samut Sakhon, Thailand).
In regions away from the sea, it has to be imported, or mined – which, prior to the Industrial Revolution, was a difficult and dangerous task, often performed by slaves or prisoners. Hence, the expression: “back to the salt mines” for the return to an arduous or unpleasant job.
Why my preoccupation with salt?
Well, we were in the Swiss Alps this summer and meant to be walking among the peaks and meadows… But it rained. And rained. We were staying in a tiny village that didn’t offer a lot of bad-weather recreation, so – on the advice of a local – we hopped on a couple of trains and took ourselves to the nearby municipality of Bex for a tour of the Bex Salt Mines. That way, our informant told us, we’d be out of the wet!
Switzerland is, of course, land-locked. Before the discovery of salt deposits near Bex in the 15th century, the precious substance had to be transported from foreign suppliers over the mountains at great expense. The finding of the salt springs is attributed to a local shepherd, but it was the Bernese invaders to the region who, in 1475, started boiling the water from these slightly saline springs, rendering the salt through evaporation.
Excavation of the springs began in ernest in 1684. Over time, periodic digs resulted in the vast maze of passages, shafts, stairs and gigantic caverns, extending almost 50 kilometres, under the villages of Villars, Chesières and Arveyes, that exists today. The mine still operates, producing salt and salt-based products as well as generating electricity. It also operates as a historical tourist facility and a function centre.
After we arrived at the Bex Railway Station, I tested my French and procured two coffees and a map. The skies cleared sufficiently, so with our raincoats and umbrellas, we set off through the town and along the cross-country walking trails to the Salt Mines.
Central Street in Bex A typical small Swiss town view: hanging flower baskets, a church spire, and quaint roofs – and mountains as a backdrop.
Le Temple de Bex Built on the site of a 12th century Catholic church dedicated to St. Clément I, the Protestant church that now commands the centre of town was started in the 16th century – after the Reformation.
House on le Grand Eau The land was green and wet as we walked along the Avançon River.
Sculpture Garden As we continued into the hills, we came across an unmarked garden, dotted with sculptures.
Into the Woods Soon we were off the roads and onto the pathways. The chip-bark underfoot was lovely – especially given the wet weather, and some of the very steep inclines.
Chemin Randonnée Pedéstre Coming across signposting is always encouraging, especially as the walk was much longer than we were led to believe: 8 kilometres rather than 5-6, and rather hilly.
Vous êtes le sel de la terre – Matthieu, V-13-16 Ainsi soit-il et respectons la peine d’autrui, les cultures, la vigne et le dur ouvrage de nos ancêtres. You are the salt of the earth – Matthew, 5:13-16 So be it and respect the worth of others, crops, vines and hard work of our ancestors.
Cow in the Vines The low-toned chimes of cow bells greeted us as we commenced a long traverse across the vineyards after coming out of the woods.
Vinyards As we walked around the hill, we had views over the valleys and villages of Vaud.
Mine Entry Finally! We came out of the vines, through more woods and down into the Bex Salt Mine, in time to pick up the tickets we had booked by phone, and wait for our guide. Tours frequently sell out – especially in wet weather.
Reservoir Rond After we take our seats in The Round Reservoir we are shown a 15 minute video about the history of the mine – in French with difficult-to-read subtitles in German, Italian and English.
Reservoir Marie-Louise The second chamber we entered was the beautiful Marie-Louise Reservoir. The giant 1,500 cubic meter cavern, supported by columns, was named for Empress Marie Louise of France, Napoleon’s second wife. She visited the site in 1814 after Napoleon was already in exile.
Looking Down the Shaft Started in 1743, the digging-out of the 215 meter-deep Bouillet Shaft took 26 years of manual labour using only hammers and chisels.
The Train We all climb into small train carriages at the Gare de Puits and the trains take us 1500 meters to the heart of the mine.
Tunnels When we alight the train, more tunnels lead through the mine…
Trolley … past anhydrite (dehydrated gypsum) walls and old utensils.
The Wine Cellar The temperature in the Salle René Burnier is a stable 17° C all year round, making it a perfect place for the local vintners to store the fruits of the local harvest – under lock and key, of course.
Stairs More stairs wind down to the Salle des Gradins…
Salle des Gradins … where our guide explains the workings of the modern drill systems.
Salle du Talon Old lamps, with examples from the 15th …
The Museum … to the 20th C, hang on display.
Miner’s Locker The Salle du Talon includes an authentic miner’s locker room. In the next rooms, the Puits de la Tranchée, examples of the tools used by the various craftsmen involved in salt extraction and production are laid out on show.
Salt There are various displays, artworks, exhibits, and interactive activities for the children.
Train The tour lasts two hours, but it doesn’t seem that long. Soon it is time to get back into the train carriages and return to the surface.
Into the Storm Laden with fragrant salts we had purchased from the crowded shop, we walked back to the train station via the roadways, saving time and distance – making it back just before the skies opened once more.
It was an enjoyable and educational experience – one I’d highly recommend.
It certainly beat walking in the alps in the rain!
The seaside city of Exmouth is at the westernmost gateway to The Coast. From nearby Orcombe Point, you can join the South West Coast Path and walk along the top of the cliffs.
Much as I know I would love the walk, we ran out of time on our visit to Devon this past Northern summer. We did, however, enjoy a boat trip from Exmouth (Stuart Line Cruises) along some of this magnificent, predominantly undeveloped, coastline.
Fisherman at the Seawall The skies are overcast as we make our way along the Exmouth Seawall to the boat dock in the distance.
Stuart Line Cruises Passengers are already seated on the upper deck of the Pride of Exmouth when we arrive.
Orcombe Point The clouds lift, the sky turns blue, and we watch as Orcombe Point, the official start of the Jurassic Coast, comes closer.
Geoneedle on Orcombe Point It is almost impossible to see at this distance, but high on the cliffs is a pyramidal “Geoneedle”. Designed by sculptor Michael Fairfax, the work – which marks the start of the Devon Heritage Coast – is constructed from the different stones that make up the region.The lines in the cliff-face, dipping to the east, clearly show the tilt in the landmass. In general, Great Britain is rising up in the north and sinking in the south. The Jurassic Coast tilts slightly to the east, so erosion has exposed the oldest rocks here at Orcombe Point, and progressively younger cliffs towards Dorset.
Triassic Coast The rocky cliffs around Exmouth are a magnificent red: desert sandstone from the Triassic period, 250-200 million years ago.
Triassic Cliffs ~ Straight Point A line of guano contrasts dramatically with the rough, eroded cliffs at the east end of Sandy Bay.
Cormorants Oblivious to our passing, waterbirds sit on the bluffs, watching out to sea.
Flags Flying ~ Straight Point Once we round the point, the flags go up on the Royal Marine Shooting Range, indicating that the firing range is now in use.
Cottages on the Top The cottages of Devon Cliffs Holiday Park cling to the top of the cliffs; greenery clings to the sides.
Otter Cove The 245 million-year-old red mudstone and sandstone cliffs around Otter Cove are ridged and pockmarked.
Bath Houses Towards the east end of the pebble beach around Otter Cove, we come to the small coastal town of Budleigh Salterton.
Apartments and Bath Houses The waters around Budleigh Salterton are sheltered, and water sports are clearly popular.
The Bluff Bounded on the east by the mouth of the Otter River, the estuary near Budleigh Salterton is a haven for migratory birds
Fog on the Bluffs As we continue east, fog rolls in …
Fog … enveloping the cliffs around Ladram Bay.
Ladram Bay Ladram Bay is home to one of England’s largest holiday parks.
Our Skipper Wisps of fog wind around us and the sandstone rock stacks as our skipper guides us into Ladram Bay.
Rock Stacks in Ladram Bay Red from the iron oxide in the triassic “Otter Sandstone”, erosion has worked its wonders on the vertical fractures and joints in the earth’s layers to produce these sea stacks. We were reminded of our visit to the “Twelve Apostles” in southern Australia earlier in the year.
Ladram Bay Beach and Rock Stacks These ancient rocky stacks and cliffs are the richest source of Triassic reptile fossil remains in Britain.
The Coast Fog curls out behind us as we turn around and work our way back along the coast.
Sea Kayaks A pair of sea kayaks bob around on the waters – insignificant against the expanse of the English Channel.
Exmouth Waterfront Too soon we are back at Exmouth’s seawall and the candy-coloured houses lining The Esplanade along the waterfront.
Exmouth Pier
Mouth of the River Ex Walking up the hill to our accommodation, we watch the boats head back out on a changing tide.
Pergola on the Point A delicate pergola on one of the many rocky points on Gulangyu Island allows views (albeit foggy) of Xiamen across the water.
Gulangyu. “Drum Wave Islet”.
Named for the sound that the waves make as they roll off the Taiwan Strait and hit the off-shore reefs and rocks, Gulangyu Island is a delightful place. Just a short ferry ride from downtown Xiamen, in the south east of the People’s Republic of China, it is a popular destination for local visitors.
Gulangyu’s charming pedestrian-only streets are filled with traditional Chinese buildings and gardens, intermingled with Victorian-era European architecture dating back to colonial days. Following China’s loss in the First Opium War (1839–42), Xiamen became one of five treaty ports established under the 1842 Treaty of Nanking. Rich overseas Chinese and foreign nationalsfrom 13 countries – including Great Britain, France and Japan – built mansions, churches, consulates, and public buildings on Gulangyu, which was officially designated an International Settlement in 1903.
The island is only 1.78 square kilometres in size, so it is easy to get around the maze of lanes and walkways. But there are plenty of things to see and do: locally renowned for it’s natural beauty, it also has numerous museums and other attractions. We bought the combined ferry + 10 attractions ticket for ¥100 (less the $20) and did our best to visit as much as we could…
Gulangyu Island It is a hazy day, and the view from the moving taxi across the waters of Xiamen Port to Gulangyu Island is murky.
Gulangyu Island Map In theory, it is a short hop from Xiamen to Gulangyu. In practice, the island is extremely popular with local visitors. When we arrived at the ferry terminal, there were crowds of people queued in numerous lines everywhere. Very little signage was in English and it took us a while to work out which line we belonged in!
Ferry Xiamen Port is a busy waterway, with a number of different working wharfs along the waterfront.
Passenger Cruise Boat Some boats offer scenic cruises around the islands.
The Masses The herding of people on and off the ferries is actually quite quick and efficient.
Boat Dock Xiamen is an important business hub, as can be seen by the glossy, modern buildings in the misty distance.
Leather Elephant Art You could spend all day wandering around the numerous arts and crafts shops.
Rock Formations The locals come to explore the rocks on the foreshore …
Sand Play … or to play in the sand with new buckets and spades bought from the hawkers nearby.
Young Women on the Rocks Posing for pictures is always part of a day out with friends.
Artists at Work
Fuding Rock A statue of Zheng Chenggong, or Koxinga, a Chinese military leader of Ming forces who defended against the Manchu conquerors in the 1650s, stands high on Fuding Rock.
General Zheng Chenggong The giant statue is 15.7 meters tall and weighs in at 1400 tons. The general drove the Dutch out of Taiwan in the 1660s, and so is a hero to the people there as well.
Zheng Chenggong This tribute was carved from 625 pieces of white granite quarried from Zheng Chenggong’s hometown of nearby Quanzhou.
The Poems of Zheng Chenggong The General’s poems are represented in beautiful calligraphy in celebratory gardens.
“Driving away the Invaders” Zheng Chenggong’s victories are memorialised in sculptures around the gardens.
Cooking Squid Locals consider the food on Gulangyu pretty special. A woman in a stall on “Food Street” prepares seafood to order.
Lunch Menu We found a sheltered restaurant out of the midday heat. The pictures on the tablecloths allowed us to order our food with some confidence.
Sayings of Dr Lin Qiaozhi The island has been home to some famous people. Dr Lin Qiaozhi, pre-eminent pioneering doctor of gynecology and obstetrics, was born here. Quotes from her writings surround the house that is now a museum in tribute.
Dr Lin Qiaozhi Linqiaozhi The pictures, clippings and memorabilia in the Memorial Hall tell the story of a remarkable woman. She trained in Beijing, England and the US, and revolutionized modern Chinese gynecology and oncology.
Shuzhuang Garden The island may be small, but there are miles of walkways meandering through the gardens and over the water. Shuzhuang Garden was originally built in 1931 as a private villa, but was opened to the public in 1955. It is divided into two parts: the Garden of Hiding the Sea(Canghaiyuan)(pictured) and the Garden of Making-Up Hills(Bushanyuan).
Piano Museum There are several exhibits and museums on the island, with two dedicated to musical instruments: Gulangyu Organ Museum, and this one filled with pianos, including rare examples from the 1800s. There are said to be over 200 pianos on what the locals call “The Island of Music”.
Entry to Sunlight Rock A family sits for their photo before climbing up to Sunlight Rock, the highest point on the island.
“Crag of Sunlight” In the heat of the day, it is a hard climb up the steps …
The Peak … to the 92.7 metre summit of Sunlight Rock, …
View over Gulangyu … but the 360º views over the island – and beyond – are worth it.
Architecture Some of the old buildings along the narrow streets are empty shells – others are renovated as shops, housing, and restaurants.
Boats on the Crossing In the afternoon, the waters of Xiamen Port are still busy …
The Ferry Home … as we make our way back to Xiamen.
It was a full day – and there was still much more we could have seen and done. If I had the chance to go back, I’d do what one TripAdvisor reviewer suggested, and stay overnight – enjoying the peace of the evening after the day-trippers have gone home.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
je echtgenoot is in China en dat geeft je extra ruimte. Mooi, zo kunnen wij van een heerlijk blogbericht van je genieten. En dat heb ik, genoten van je bericht en foto’s. Lieve groet, Dietmut
Dank u voor uw bezoek , Deitmut . Ik zal blij zijn om hem naar huis te hebben. !