Yellow Flowers in the Sandy foreshore, Beachport SA AU

Simple Treasures
Yellow treasure flowers (Gazania rigens) bring cheery brightness into any day; they might be native to Africa, but they are perfectly at home in the sandy soils at the ocean’s edge in South Australia.

It is easy to hit over-load while travelling: too many wonderful sights, engaging activities, interesting people, and novel tastes and smells… This can be especially the case after spending time in an environment so sublime that it transports you, producing a nature-induced “peak experience”.

We had just driven the length of Australia’s Great Ocean Road, a drive through scenery so magnificent that it rates its own UNESCO World Heritage listing. Anything after that was bound to be anti-climactic!

But, we still had 620-720 kilometres – depending on the route we chose – to drive to Adelaide. So, with some trip-notes printed from the internet in hand, we took a deep breath, left the Great Ocean Road behind us, and pointed the car northwest.

Waterfront: turquoise waters, black rocks with red rust, Port Fairy, VIC

South Beach and Pea Soup Cove, Port Fairy
The Great Ocean Road slipped away with no fanfare; by the time we reached the charming seaside town of Port Fairy, it was already half an hour behind us. Our first brief stop was for a breath of salt air overlooking the pounding turquoise waters.

Seagull against the surf, Port Fairy

Seagull, Port Fairy
It was late afternoon, with a tearing wind, as we watched the gulls swoop on the drafts.

Windmills on the skyline in a golden rural landscape, VIC

Windmills
I couldn’t resist an iPhone snap out the window as we headed northwest across a golden rural landscape, replete with windmills. (iPhone 4S)

View into the Umpherston Sinkhole, Mt Gambier SA

The Umpherston Sinkhole
Early next morning in Mount Gambier, South Australia’s second largest city, we took the time to explore some of the local attractions. Sitting on the side of the volcano of the same name, Mount Gambier boasts craters, sinkholes and caves. This one, the Umpherston Sinkhole, is a collapsed limestone cave that was first landscaped and planted by James Umpherston in 1886.

Long needles of a Casuarina against a blue sky, Mt Gambier SA

Sheoak (Casuarina) Overhead
The sinkhole garden is planted in layers, with trees overhead…

Young Grape Leaf, The Umpherston Sinkhole, Mt Gambier

Young Grape Leaf
… foliage and flowers around the upper rim…

Ivy, The Umpherston Sinkhole, Mt Gambier SA

Ivy
… and thick curtains of ivy tumbling down the sides.

View into the Umpherston Sinkhole, Mt Gambier SA

The Umpherston Sinkhole
The shadowed gardens at the bottom of the sinkhole include a fountain, slow-growing tree-ferns and colourful hydrangeas.

Blue Lake, Mt Gambier SA

Blue Lake
One of Mount Gambier’s most popular attractions is Blue Lake, the extinct crater, filled with high-quality artesian drinking water. We were lucky: the colour of the lake changes with the seasons, being a steel grey in winter. Sometime in early November each year, it changes – almost overnight – to the spectacular cobalt blue we were treated to. Late February the colour gradually returns to its winter grey.

Signboard about Waawor - Blue Lake, Mt Gambier SA

“Waawor”
The 3.6 kilometre walking circuit around Blue LakeWaawor in the indigenous Boandik language – includes information signs and viewing points.

Blue Lake, Mt Gambier SA

Blue Lake
Not yet noon, the day was already crackling with heat. Some of the foliage around the lake was clearly suffering from the recent dearth of rainfall and unusually high temperatures. The city of Mount Gambier can just be seen on the horizon.

Bee on a Purple Flower, Mt Gambier SA

Purple Flower
The hot, dry air hummed with insects and birdsong.

Yellow Flowers on a native Tree, Mt Gambier SA

Flowering Trees
The hot air was also filled with the delicate scents of the native blooms.

Cactus Garden with white flowersJohn Watson Dr, Mt Gambier

Cactus Garden
A local group of cactus enthusiasts maintain a fenced and gated private garden of large cacti.

Rook Wall and Lookout, Mt Gambier SA

Rook Wall and Lookout
At the tail end of WWI, the Mount Gambier District Progress Association came up with a plan to do something for the town. Thanks to 1100 local volunteers (800 men and 300 women), in only one day the dolomite and limestone wall and lookout were predominantly finished. The feature was named for Mr. Arthur Rook, local publican and chair of the planning committee, who died prematurely from the Spanish flu in 1919.

The Pumping Station, Riddoch Hwy, Mt Gambier SA

The Pumping Station
The old Pumping Station, built from cream and pink dolomite in 1884, and extended in 1909, nestles across the Riddoch Highway from the Rook Wall.

Curving empty Beach - Beachport Surf Beach SA

Beachport Surf Beach
Our next stop was just east of the coastal town of Beachport to marvel at the colours and the expanse of empty beach.

Expanse of Beach - Beachport Surf Beach SA

Beachport Surf Beach
The surf beach, stretching in both directions, was almost deserted.

Looking up Beachport Jetty, South Australia

Beachport Jetty
Beachport is widely known for the long Beachport jetty; a steel screw pile jetty built between 1878-1882.

Beachport Jetty and stone breakwater, South Australia

The Jetty
Originally 1220 meters long, the jetty still extends 772 meters into Rivoli Bay, making it visible on the horizon, even from a distance.

Small cairn commemorating Beachport

Whaling Monument
On the north side of Beachport is a cairn commemorating the area’s first white settlement: a whaling station established here in 1843.

Echidna on a roadway, South Australia

Echidna
As we continued along the Southern Ports Highway, we had to stop the car to let a spiny anteater waddle across the road. I was prevented from taking a great shot by: 1) the speed at which the little creature moved, and 2) the searing heat of the pavement on my bare feet!

Customs House, Robe SA

Customs House, Robe
The coastal town of Robe was declared an official port in 1847, shipping wool and receiving boatloads of Chinese immigrants heading to the Victorian goldfields. The Customs House was built in 1863 and was managed for many years by pioneering shipping agent George Omerod.

Sunflare over the salt flats, Coorong National Park South Australia

The Coorong
Our last, late afternoon stop before hitting the highways into Adelaide, was overlooking The Coorong: a string of saltwater lagoons at the mouth of the River Murray. Shielded from the Southern Ocean by the Younghusband Peninsula, the area has international importance as a wetland, as well as deep cultural significance to the local Ngarrindjeri people. It was hot – breathtakingly hot – and the brackish smell that spoke of salt-water organisms dying, was overwhelming.

Text: Happy TravelsWe could have spent days at each of our brief stops. What a fascinating, beautiful stretch of road, rich in scenery and history.

One day, we’ll be back – with the time to explore properly!

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 04-05February2014

Sumatran School Girl, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Sumatran School Child
A group of school children were on an excursion to the crocodile farm at Asam Kumbang near Medan, where we made our first road stop of the day.

Some time ago – last April, to be exact – I wrote about the breathtakingly awesome experience of meeting Sumatran orangutans in their wild jungle habitat (Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: Meet the Locals). Truly, it was a memorable encounter – one not easily matched.

It was hard to leave the Gunung Leuser National Park, but our itinerary called for us to move on. And, much of the overall impression of any trip comes from the smaller things: the insights into day-to-day life, the “ordinary” landscapes, and the people you meet along the way, as you travel from one place to another (q.v. Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: Medan to Bukit Lawang).

We were driven by car from Bukit Lawang back to Medan, and then on to Berastagi in the foothills of the Barisan Mountains: three hours according to Google Maps; closer to twice that according to my trip notes.

Crocodile in a concrete cage, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Taman Buaya: Crocodile Farm
Our first road stop was at Indonesia’s largest private crocodile farm near Medan. The crocodiles bred here can not be exported or sold, so the owner must feed them from the entrance fee. This probably accounts for the crowded and run-down nature of the place.

Sumatran School Girl, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Sumatran School Children
A couple of classes of school children were at the “farm” when we visited. With her pen and notebook in hand, a schoolgirl climbs up on a vantage point to better see the crocodiles in the swamp.

Sumatran School Girl, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Schoolgirls
Her smiling friends below wait their turns to climb up to the fence.

Crocodile in the Swamp, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Crocodiles in the Swamp
In the swamp, the crocodiles are almost invisible, …

Crocodile in the Swamp, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Crocodiles in the Swamp
… hidden by the algae until they lift their heads.

Sumatran School Girl, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Sumatran School Girl
A young girl sits in front of the fence around the swamp.

Sumatran School Girls, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

School Children at Lunch
More girls, in their school uniforms, sit in some shade eating their lunch.

Sumatran Boys at Lunch, Crocodile Farm, Asam Kumbang, North Sumatra, Indonesia

School Boys at Lunch
In another corner of the hot, concrete yard, the boys find a patch of shade for their break.

Sumatran Baby in a Medan home, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Sumatran Baby
After the crocodile farm, we drove back to Medan, where we took our coffee break in the home of our local guide, …

North Sumatran Baby and Dad, in a Medan home, North Sumatra, Indonesia

North Sumatran Baby and Dad
… and met his young son.

Santa Maria Annai Velanghanni, Medan, North Sumatra

Santa Maria Annai Velanghanni
Our next stop was at Santa Maria Annai Velanghanni. Built in 2005 in Indo-Mogul style, this extraordinary building is a Catholic temple.

anta Maria Annai Velanghanni, Medan, North Sumatra

“Our Lady of Good Health”
The shrine is a devotion to Mary, who was said to have appeared in the 17th century in Velanghanni, Tamil Nadu.

Bats in a cage, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Medicinal Bats?
We then stopped briefly at the side of the road where bats were being kept – reputedly as medicine for asthma.

A Sumatran woman sitting on the floor with Cinnamon bark, North Sumatra

Woman with Cinnamon Bark
Our last stop was at a mixed small farm holding, where cinnamon, from the bark of the cinnamomum burmannii tree, was one of the products being harvested.

A Sumatran woman sitting on the floor with Cinnamon bark, North Sumatra

Shaving Cinnamon
An inherently sustainable crop, cinnamon trees grow easily, …

A Sumatran woman sitting on the floor with Cinnamon bark, North Sumatra

Shaving Cinnamon
…albeit slowly, and can be intercropped with other plants.

Young Coffee pods on a branch, North Sumatra

Young Coffee
North Sumatra has the perfect soil for Arabica coffee. Most of it, too, is grown by smallholders.

Cocoa pods on a branch, North Sumatra

Cocoa for the Picking
One of Indonesia’s most important agricultural export crops: cocoa, is another product predominantly grown by smallholder farmers.

Dried Cocoa pod on the ground, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Dried Cocoa
With rumours of an impending shortage, cocoa is a lucrative crop.

Broken Cocoa pod on the ground, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Spilt Cocoa
Ironically, the government’s attempt to promote value-added processing industries by taxing the export of cocoa beans puts pressure on small growers.

Pineapple, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Pineapple
The beauty of cinnamon, coffee and cocoa – unlike the rubber and palm oil mono-plantations that are threatening the local orang-utan habitats – …

Green cassava leaves, North Sumatra, Indonesia

Cassava or Tapioca
… is that these basic food crops can be mixed in with cash-crops.

Text: Keep smilingCinnamon. Coffee. Cocoa.

Add some smiling children…

No orangutans, but still pretty special.

Keep smiling!

17February2014

Gruyères Castle Courtyard, Fribourg, CH

Gruyères Castle Courtyard
The medieval castle that comprises the old town of Gruyères, in the upper valley of the Saane River, is a popular Swiss tourist spot.

A castle, cheese, wine and chocolate: what’s not to love about Gruyères?

We were meant to be hiking around Leysin in the Swiss Alps, but it was raining, and had been for days. We went through the guide books and asked locals about alternative amusements (q.v.: A Trip to the Salt Mines). The medieval town of Gruyères was three train-hops away from our accommodation; so, with our Swiss Rail Passes and our umbrellas in hand, we set off to visit the home of the well-known cheese.

Three trains (Leysin-Aigle, Aigle-Montreux, and the seasonal “Chocolate Train”: Montreux-Gruyères) and two-plus hours later, we arrived in Gruyères. It was still raining.

Gruyères is in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, which usually makes my task easier – as my patchy French is better than my fledgeling German. According to the books, the Gruyères train – dubbed The Swiss Chocolate Train – would also take us to Broc, home to the Maison Cailler, a chocolate factory which offers tours. Unfortunately, the attendant at the Gruyères railway station was less than helpful – in any language! We watched him give short-shrift to some Indian visitors who spoke impeccable English, before getting no help from him in French or English ourselves. Travel is not without its moments of uncertainty.

So, we decided to hedge our bets, and walked up to the Château de Gruyères before travelling further.

Pathway Up to the Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Up to the Castle
After our three trains, we had a fifteen minute walk up to the Château de Gruyères.

Through the Gruyères Castle Wall/entry, Fribourg, CH

Through the Castle Wall
Built between 1270 and 1282, Gruyères Castle is one of the most important medieval cities in Switzerland.

Inside the Gruyères Castle Wall/entry, Fribourg, CH

Young Lovers
What could be more romantic than a stolen kiss on a medieval battlement wall?

Inner Entry,  Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Inside the Castle Walls
The castle was bought back by the canton of Fribourg in 1938, and is currently maintained by The Gruyères Castle’s Friends.

Asian woman with an umbrella,  Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

In the Entry
Wherever there are tourists, you will wait a while for a clear shot! 😉

Inner Entry,  Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

The City Crest
The crane (“grue” in French) in the crest gives Gruyères its name.

Inner Courtyard, Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Castle Courtyard
We were pleased to discover the range of shops, museums and restaurants inside the castle walls.

 Jesus over the Doorway of the chapel , Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Jesus over the Doorway
In the centre of the castle courtyard, an old chapel …

Egg Painter

Egg Painter
… now houses artisans working, …

Painted turkey eggs, Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Turkey Eggs
… and crafts for sale.

Alien creatures in front of the Museum HR Giger, Château St. Germain, Gruyères,  Fribourg, CH

Museum HR Giger
Since 1998, Château St Germain has housed the official museum of Hans Rudolf Giger, the surrealist Swiss artist responsible for the Academy Award winning design work on the movie Alien.

View through an iron gate over Château St Germain,

St.Theodul Church
Looking outside the walls of Château St Germain, one of the two castles in Gruyères.

View up to the Château de Gruyères, Gruyères, Fribourg, CH

Le Château de Gruyères
Looking up at one castle – Château de Gruyères – from another – Château St. Germain.

Metal Wall Plaque, Château St. Germain, Gruyères, Fribourg, CH

Wall Plaque
Giant metal plaques decorate the entrance to Castle of Gruyères; this one is on the left wall.

Old Armour, Château St. Germain, Gruyères, Fribourg, CH

Old Armour
Gruyères Castle contains many old artefacts and has been refurbished as a museum.

The Garden from the windows of Le Château de Gruyères, Fribourg, CH

The Garden
A formally sculpted French garden is maintained behind the château.

Colourful acrylic paintings, Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Paintings
Gruyères Castle hosts regularly-changing exhibitions by modern artists.

Swatch shop window, Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Put me in a Swatch
It wouldn’t be a Swiss town without a Swiss watch shop!

linens with pulled-thread-work decoration Gruyères Castle, Fribourg, CH

Fait à la Main
Finely woven linen, with delicate pulled-thread-work decoration, is on display in another shop.

Walkway down to Gruyères, Fribourg, CH

Walkway to Gruyères
After a lunch that mainly consisted of – you guessed it – cheese, we walked down to the new town. Visitors were still walking up to the castle through the mist and rain.

La Maison du Gruyère from the hill,  Gruyères, Fribourg, CH

La Maison du Gruyère
“The House of Cheese” beckons through the wet…

Inside La Maison du Gruyère, Fribourg, CH

Watching Cheese Making
Safely inside, we head to the upstairs viewing area where wall plaques and audio-guides explain all about making the famous Gruyère cheese.

nside La Maison du Gruyère, Fribourg, CH

Factory Floor
We watch as the milk churns in giant vats.

Entry to the Cailler-Nestlé shop, Broc, Fribourg, CH

Cailler-Nestlé Reflections
Somewhat optimistically, given the lateness (and wetness) of the afternoon, and the fact that it was school holidays, we jumped back on the train and headed up the tracks to Broc. A helpful sign told us there was a two and a half hour wait for tours. We opted for some chocolate-shopping and a stop in the Café instead.

Broc Station from a train window, Fribourg, CH

Broc Station
Heading back down the line, I had time to reflect again on the charm of these small village railway stations…

La Gruyère, from a train station, Fribourg, CH

“La Gruyère”
… and on the comfort and efficiency of the Swiss trains. For while we had not indulged in the First-Class Pullman train – complete with tour guide and croissants – we’d had an enjoyable day.

Not even the incessant rain, or the impossible wait for the chocolate factory, or the grumpy Station Master – who was still working in the Gruyères station when we passed through in the evening – could ruin our day.

Text: Bon Appétit

For we had bags full of cheese and chocolate, bellies full of wine and photo cards full of images.

Well worth the trip!

Bon Appétit!

Pictures: 22July2014

Looking up the Qutb Minar, Delhi, India

Qutb Minar
Look up! India’s 2nd tallest minaret rises 73 metres into the air. (24January2010)

It is pretty impressive: the world’s tallest brick minaret, set in a complex of archaeological ruins dating back to 1193 AD, on a site that is much older than that. The stories behind it are quite something as well.

Qutb Minar, sometimes spelled Qutub or Qutabwas started in 1192 by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first Sultan of Delhi and ruler of North India from 1206 to 1210 AD.

Some say Qutb Minar was intended as a minaret for the muezzins to call the faithful to prayer. Others, however, argue that it is a Victory Tower: commemorating the conquest of Mohammed Ghori (Muhammad Ghari) over the Rajputs and celebrating the beginning of Muslim rule in India.

Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the man responsible for having the Qutb Minar built, was born to a Turkish family in Central Asia. Sold as a slave in his childhood, he was lucky that his owners were powerful mentors: the first was a Qazi, a sharia judge, and the next was a Sultan – ruling over Afghanistan, Pakistan, and northern India.

Educated by his first owner, Qutb-ud-din Aibak became a fanatical Muslim. In 1192, under the command of his later owner Mohammed Ghori, Qutb’s garrison occupied Delhi. The young military commander ordered the destruction of twenty-seven Hindu and Jain temples to supply building materials for the construction of Quwwat-ul-Islam (“Might and Glory of Islam”), Delhi’s first mosque. He also started work on the red sandstone and marble tower.

Qutb crowned himself Sultan of the Mamlūk Dynasty after Mohammed Ghori’s assasination in 1206. Unfortunately, he only ruled four years – dying after impaling himself on the pommel of his own saddle while playing polo. The completion of the giant minaret was left to his successors, who added stories, renovated and repaired damage.

Although the magnificent tower is dedicated to a famous Sufi saint, Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki, it is commonly believed that the name, Qutb Minar, is in honour of Sultan Qutb-ud-din Aibak who had it built.

In 1993 the whole archaeological site around the minar, including funerary buildings and the remains of two mosques, were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Entrance/Exit Arch, Qutb Minar, Delhi, India

Entrance/Exit
A beautiful arched gateway gives an indication of the delicate sandstone carving that is found within the complex. (12April2008)

Rose Ringed Parakeets, Qutb Minar

Rose Ringed Parakeets
The Mughal Garden and Mughal Mosque are next to the entrance. (24January2010)

Five-Striped Palm Squirrel, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Five-Striped Palm Squirrel
Once inside the walled Mughal Garden, it is like being in a lost, wild world. (24January2010)

Path to Qutb Minar and Alai Darwaza, Delhi, India

Path to Qutb Minar and Alai Darwaza (2008April12)

Looking up the Qutb Minar, Delhi, India

Qutb Minar 
(24January2010)

Alai Darwaza gate into Qutb Minar, Delhi, India (12April2008)

Alai Darwaza
The beautiful domed Alai gate into the mosque complex was erected in 1311 by Alauddin Khalji. The red sandstone structure is decorated with stunning Turkic features made of white marble inlay. (12April2008)

Qutb Detail: Arabic calligraphy in the red sandstone, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Calligraphy Detail
The red sandstone of the Qutb is richly inscribed with Arabic calligraphy. (24January2010)

Portrait: Young Indian Couple, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Young Couple
Surfaces everywhere are ornately decorated. (04November 2013)

Ruined arches around the Quwwat ul-Islam Mosque, Delhi, India

Great Arch
Ruined arches surround the old walls of the Quwwat ul-Islam Mosque(12April2008)

Worn columns around the Quwwat ul-Islam Mosque, Delhi, India

Carved Colonades
Worn columns around the Quwwat ul-Islam Mosque include Hindu motifs, remnants from the temples they were pillaged from. (04November2013)

Alai Minar

Alai Minar
Sultan Alauddin Khilji, who expanded the Quwwat ul-Islam Mosque, started a second minar, intended to be twice the size of Qutb Minar. He died, however, before the structure rose above the first story. All that remains is a giant rubble masonry core.  (24January2010)

Portrait: Indian male labourer, Qutb Minar

Brick Layer
The Qutb Minar complex requires a fair bit of maintenance. (07April2010)

Portrait: Young Indian male labourer, Qutb Minar

Brick Layer’s Apprentice
On one of our visits, extensive renovations were taking place. (07April2010)

Brick Layer

Brick Layer
He needs to work fast – the searing heat dries the mortar quickly. (07April2010)

Portrait: Female labourer, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Female Labourer
The ring on her head helps her balance the slabs of rocks she must carry. (07April2010)

Portrait: Two young children waving, Qutb Minar, Delhi

“Bring your Children to Work”
Labourers don’t have access to childcare: children look after each other, while their mums work nearby.
(07April2010)

Portrait: Young child with a dirty face, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Who could resist that solemn gaze?
(07April2010)

Floral Carved Red Sandstone Detail, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Sandstone Detail
The housing around Iltutmish’s Tomb is finely carved. (07April2010)

Iltutmish

Iltutmish’s Tomb
The beautifully carved white marble cenotaph of Iltutmish, the second “Slave Dynasty” Sultan of Delhi (r. 1211–1236 AD) is an important feature within the Qutb complex. (04November 2013)

Indian Woman with a Camera, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Photographer in Situ
On one of my visits, an Indian woman was sitting outside Iltutmish’s Tomb taking visitors’ pictures with their own cameras. (24January2010)

Portrait: Indian Woman, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Indian Woman
She was equally happy to have her picture taken – for a tip! (24January2010)

Qutb Minar from the back of the ruins, Delhi, India

At the Back of the Ruins
(04November 2013)

Qutb Minar from the back of the ruins, Delhi, India

Qutb from the Back
Doorways and arches … (24January2010)

Qutb Minar through the arches of the ruins, Delhi, India

Qutb from the Back
… make the complex fun to explore. (24January2010)

Silhouette of a security guard, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Security Guard
A guard finds a shady spot from which to watch the site… (24January2010)

Portrait: Four young Indian women, Qutb Minar, Delhi

The Girls
… while young women on a day out clamour to have their picture taken. (24January2010)

Portrait: Young Indian Couple, Qutb Minar, Delhi

Young Couple
The Qutb Minar site is a popular destination for Delhi residents. This young couple was celebrating a birthday. They even offered me some of the cake they had brought with them! (07April2010)

Imagine: from lowly slave to Sultan and ruler over vast territory, leaving behind buildings still celebrated over 800 years later. Qutb-ud-din Aibak was the founder of a dynasty – albeit a short-lived one (1206 to 1290) – that ruled Delhi and northern India, Nepal, and part of Pakistan.

As hard as it might be to conceive of today, apparently this was not an uncommon practice in early Muslim societies. From the 9th century, Mamlūks (Arabic for “owned” or “property”) were soldiers of slave origin who had converted to Islam. By the 13th century, these Mamluks held political and military power across the region.

Sign-Off-Namaste

Even so, it is an impressive legacy he leaves behind: in stone – and in stories.

Until next time!

Pictures: 12April2008, 24January2010, 07April2010 and 04November 2013

Canadian Flag flapping at the back of a boat, Stuart Channel, BC

Flag over the Stuart Channel
A flag flaps wildly as a sailboat motors through the protected waters of British Columbia’s Southern Gulf Islands.

“Land was created to provide a place for boats to visit.”

-Brooks Atkinson

There are those who sail just for sailing’s sake: for the feel of the wind, the rush of the waves, and the challenge of managing a boat and the elements. As much as I enjoy the physical activity of sailing, I also love it as a means to an end: as a way of being part of the natural environment, and as a way of visiting new locations.

“Travel” takes on a whole new dimension when you are at the helm of a boat on the water. There is a real feeling of freedom that comes with a good day’s sailing: the joy of slicing through the waters towards places that might otherwise be inaccessible.

Of course, in a sailboat, access to those destinations is dependent on the the whims of the winds, the turn of the tides and the sailor’s own abilities. My husband and I get out onto the water whenever we are able, which, unfortunately, is not often enough to make us very good sailors. But, when the opportunity presented to travel with another boat through the tricky Dodd Narrows into the Southern Gulf Islands, we jumped at it. What we lack in skill, we make up in enthusiasm.

We had already been out sailing several days on Graystone, a comfortable 38-foot Hughes (On the Straits and Narrows (Part 1)), so we had our sea legs. Even so, traversing the 60-metre-wide Dodd Narrows had me nervous. Timing is everything: in a sailboat, the Narrows can only be safely crossed under motor and around slack tide. The currents run between 6 and 10 knots, with rips and eddies even during the short slack tide: that six-minute interval, four times a day, when the tide pauses briefly before changing direction.

So, even with careful planning, I was happy to have more-seasoned sailors in a companion boat to keep an eye on us – and to join us in exploring new landfalls.

A sailboat motoring Into Dodd Narrows, BC

Into the Narrows
The crossing through Dodd Narrows has to be planned carefully to coincide with slack tides.

Sails and Mountains, Southern Gulf Islands BC

Sails and Mountains
Once through the challenging rips of Dodd Narrows, you are in amongst the Southern Gulf Islands; the potential for exploration is almost limitless.

Thetis Island, a sheltered little gem (2,560 acres ~ 4 sq. miles) across the Stuart Channel from the community of Chemainus on Vancouver Island, is one of those places only accessible by water: seaplane, scheduled ferry, or your own boat.

First Nations people have lived around the area for 8000 years, and Europeans have been settled on the island since the late 1800s. Today, the population stands at 350 people: mostly engaged in managing holiday rentals and Christian church camps. The one-room elementary school has room for up to 50 young children; older students make the daily ferry trips to Vancouver Island. Classified as an “unincorporated community”, the island has no public lands and is self-managed through a special “Islands Trust” administration.

As small as the island is, it’s sheltered location makes it popular with boats cruising in the Gulf Islands. There are two privately-operated marinas. We booked our boats into the smaller of the two, at Telegraph Cove.

Pier, Telegraph Harbour Marina, Thetis Island BC

Telegraph Harbour Marina
The sun lowers in the sky as we settle into our moorings at Telegraph Harbour Marina on Thetis Island.

Shallow Waters, Telegraph Bay, Thetis Island, BC

Shallow Waters
The waters around our mooring at Telegraph Bay on Thetis Island are green, shallow, and surrounded by trees.

Wooden carving: Asian Night Fisherman, Telegraph Cove, BC

Night Fisherman
We were amused to find an old Asian night fisherman guarding the Telegraph Bay Marina shopfront.

Coloured yacht club pennant flags on wooden rafters, Telegraph Harbour Marina, BC

Pennants
Flags from yacht clubs around the world decorate the rafters of the barbecue shelter at the Telegraph Harbour Marina.

 Jellyfish in the waters of Telegraph Harbour, BC

Jellyfish
Like eggs with tentacles, jellyfish float in the waters of Telegraph Harbour.

A couple in a Dinghy on Telegraph Harbour, BC

Dinghy
Our travel companions explore the waters of Telegraph Harbour.

Shallow waters around Telegraph Harbour BC

Rocky Point
The shoreline around Telegraph Harbour is rocky and uneven.

Wildflowers in dry grass, Thetis Island BC

Wildflowers
Thetis Island lies in a rain shadow, giving it a mild, relatively dry, climate.

Cottage at Maple Bay Marina

Maple Bay Marina
We spend our second night moored at Maple Bay, Duncan, on Vancouver Island. In the morning the light on the waters is stunning.

Crofton Pulp Mill, Vancouver Island BC

Towards Crofton
Against the backdrop of Vancouver Island, the Crofton Pulp Mill stands out as one of the few examples of industry.

Sailboat under motor, Stuart Channel, BC

No Wind!
It’s slow motoring when the winds won’t blow…

Sheltered from Georgia Strait by the much large Valdes and Gabriola Islands, DeCourcy Island (about 460 acres) feels miles away from the “real world”.

Not only does the island have no ferry service – access is by boat or float-plane only – the only marina is restricted for residents (most of whom are weekenders or holiday stays) only. Property advertisers tout the “Off the Grid Island Life”: the few available house lots need to organise and maintain their own power, water and septic services.

We dropped anchor in the calm waters of the bay at the south end of the island, right next to the 76-acre Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park.

Sailboats anchored in the south bay, DeCourcy Island BC

Anchoring at DeCourcy
In the sheltered bay at the south end of DeCourcy Island, we drop anchor for lunch on the boat, …

Dinghy on DeCourcy

Dinghy on DeCourcy
… then take a dinghy ashore for a walk …

View over the harbour on De Courcy Island, BC

Harbour on DeCourcy
… along Pylades Trail, where we have views down over the harbour.

Natures Abstracts: Arbutus Bark

Natures Abstracts: Curling Arbutus Bark

Pine Cones

Pine Cones

Grasses, De Courcy Island, BC

Grasses
The bright afternoon sun glints through the grasses on the hill.

Sailboat motoring into the harbour at De Courcy, BC

Sailboat
From the trail we watch another boat motoring into the south harbour at DeCourcy.

Treasure Chest, Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park, BC

Treasure Chest
In order to live up to it’s name: Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park, a treasure chest full of plastic beads and fake gems sits on the point, not far from the warning beacon and overlooking the boats in the residents-only marina.

Oak Leaves, Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park, BC

Oak Leaves
The BC Parks site helpfully states: “Poison oak can also be found along steep rock outcroppings in the cove.” Unfortunately, they don’t include pictures. I think this is the more-common Gary Oak (Quercus garryana). Still, I didn’t touch it; just in case!

Brother XII Trail marker, , Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park, BC

Brother XII Trail
Brother XII, born as Edward Arthur Wilson in Britain in 1878, was a self-proclaimed mystic and founder of the Aquarian Foundation, a spiritual group – or cult. With money from his many followers, he bought tracts of land on DeCourcy and nearby islands to build a self-sufficient community. Before long, cracks in the planned Utopian lifestyle lead to a series of sensational court battles. He is said to have fled to Switzerland with the Foundation’s money.

Still Waters, Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park, DeCourcy BC

Still Waters
As we make our way back to the harbour, the still waters of DeCourcy are a sharp contrast to the Dodd Narrows which we must face again – this time travelling north.

Tugboat and Log Boom, Dodd Narrows, BC

Tugboat and Log Boom
We sit at the south end of Dodd Narrows, glued to our radios. Working tug boats with their massive log booms get right-of-way, so we wait for our turn.

Log Boom, Dodd Narrows, BC

Log Boom
The massive logs are chained together, but you don’t want to get too close – and you really don’t want to meet a log that has broken free!

Sailboat motoring at Nightfall, Newcastle Island Passage, BC

Twilight
Daylight is fading as we chug north through Newcastle Island Passage to Nanaimo.

Looking through a boat windscreen at sunset, Nanaimo, BC

Nightfall

On the way back to our mooring, we learn the truth of another sailing axiom attributed to Francis Stokes: “The sea finds out everything you did wrong.”

For, it turned out our running lights were not working. Like an old-fashioned figurehead, or Kate Winslet in the Titanic, I stood at the prow of the boat with a flashlight, making sweeps across the dark waters in front of us, tying to see and be seen. Even at night Newcastle Island Passage is busy with tugs, fishing boats and the massive BC Ferries.

Text: Safe SailingIt was with a relieved sigh we found our “home” berth and tied up safely, had a quick drink at the local pub, and reflected on another great sail – and some great landfalls.

Until next time ~

Safe Sailing!

Photos: 3-5November2012