.jpg) Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe, this beautiful basilica is an important stop along the UNESCO-listed French pilgrimage route to the Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Toulouse, France’s fourth-largest city and the capital of the southern Occitanie region, was an unexpected treat.
My husband and I were stopped there for two nights in transit, and had enjoyed our time wandering through the public gardens (see: Public Art and Gardens) and admiring the narrow cobbled streets and ancient buildings. What I didn’t know until later is that one of the buildings we were admiring, the Basilique Saint-Sernin, was actually UNESCO-heritage listed for its historic connection to a French portion of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James. The Romanesque church, consecrated in 1096, was the most important stop in Southwest France for pilgrims walking to Galicia in northwestern Spain.
The city itself is layered with history. Originally founded by the Romans, Toulouse was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom in the 5th century and the capital of the province of Languedoc in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period. Traces of the Romance language that evolved from Latin in the region – known as Occitan, Langue d’Oc, or Provençal – can still be heard.
Linguistically, Occitan is closer to the Catalan spoken in Andorra and parts of eastern Spain than it is to French, and the Languedoc regions did not historically consider themselves part of the Kingdom of France. That all changed after the Albigensian Crusade (1209–1229) against the Cathars.
The Cathars, or self-identified ‘Good Christians’, were part of a loosely organised movement of pseudo-Gnostics which thrived in Southern Europe. Because they eschewed some of the teachings – and all of the excesses – of the Catholic Church, they were pronounced heretics. Pope Innocent III (1198 -1216) first tried to end Catharism by sending out missionaries, then launched the crusade against them – and their protectors, including the Count Raymond VI of Toulouse (1156 – 1222) – in 1209.
The twenty-year-long Albigensian Crusade (and the Medieval Inquisition which followed it) has been called a genocide: it was largely political and was ultimately effective. Long story short, there was a significant reduction in the number of practicing Cathars, the County of Toulouse became aligned with the French crown, and the distinct regional culture of Languedoc was diminished.
Since that time, Toulouse has been a solid Catholic bastion, which shows in its architecture.
.jpg) Bicycles in Toulouse
European cities – or the city centres, at least – tend to be bicycle and pedestrian friendly. .jpg) Le Télégramme – Rue Gabriel Péri and Rue des 7 Troubadours
Streets run off in odd directions, and buildings nestle in where they can. This example, with its bluish gray slate roof and its stone and brick polychrome walls, is a distinctive Toulouse landmark.  The Toulouse Telegram
Designed by brother architects, Antoine and Raymond Isidore, as the home of one of Toulouse’s four main newspapers, the building, finished in 1912, has since been retrofitted several times. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen
Down another narrow street, we find the chevet, or east end, of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, with its massive buttresses – built with the expectation that the choir would be much taller than it is. Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toulouse
Built on the site of an earlier Romanesque cathedral, the current building was started at the beginning of the 13th century (1210–1220). Called ‘militant religious architecture’, this more austere Southern French Gothic style of building was an attempt to woo back Catholics who had turned to Catharism – which advocated a more pious austerity. Heritage-listed by the French Ministry of Culture, the cathedral is still the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse, and is considered emblematic of the city and its historic joining into the Kingdom of France. Balconies in the Pink City
Many of the city’s buildings are constructed from pinkish terracotta bricks – earning Toulouse its La Ville Rose (The Pink City) nickname. City Streets
Residential streets are broad boulevards, full of leafy trees. Dogs are everywhere! Capitole de Toulouse
The next morning we found ourselves in the massive square at the Capitole. The 135 m (443 ft) wide main façade of the city hall was built between 1750 and 1760 in the Neoclassical style from the characteristic local pink brick. In the Café
The square is bounded by cafés and other small businesses. Petit-Déjeuner – Gaufre à la Crème Florist
Temporary businesses set up in the square daily. Rue du Taur
Wandering the old cobbled streets lined with candy-coloured buildings was a delight. Rue du Taur (Street of the Bull), which runs between the Place du Capitole and Place Saint-Sernin, is so named because it is here that Saint-Saturnin (Sernin) was martyred during the 3rd century. The Romans had tied him to a furious bull that dragged him through the streets. Notre Dame du Taur
The original building here was a Roman Catholic oratory built on the exact spot the patron saint of Toulouse, Saint Saturnin, was reputedly dropped by the bull in the year 250. What we see now was built between the 14th–16th centuries in Southern French Gothic, or Meridional Gothic, style. Saint François d’Assise
This current building was classified as a historic monument in 1840, and has been UNESCO-listed since 1998 under the Paths of Saint Jacques de Compostela in France. Saints flank the portal of the west facade of the building’s clock tower. Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The number of pilgrims stopping at the Notre Dame du Taur to pay respects to Saint Saturnin was overwhelming, and in the 11th century, a larger church was started to accommodate them. Saturnin’s bones and other relics were transferred to this larger basilica. Basilique Saint-Sernin Bell Tower
The commanding bell tower is divided into five tiers: the lower three, with their Romanesque arches, date from the 12th century, and the upper two Gothic sections date from the 13th century. The spire was added much later, in the 15th century. Renaissance Gate to the Abbey The Miègeville Gate – Circa 1100 Ancient Icons
The interior of the basilica is dark, and decorated with old iconographic artwork. I think this is theologian and philosopher Saint Augustine. Deep Window The Cross Colours and Textures
Back outside the Saint Sernin Basilica, the spring air is full of the scent of flowers. Outside the Basilica
The massive, ancient building looks different from every angle. The Apse
The beautiful brickwork in the apse of the Basilica Saint-Sernin is immediately recognisable. Café
There is always somewhere close at hand to stop for coffee. Stade Toulousain Rugby
These old buildings are in constant need of love and attention … Derelicts
… and some have fallen by the wayside. Having seen a lot and walked a lot, we returned to our accommodation to prepare for the long train north to Paris the next day.
 Of course, we stopped along the way for another wonderful meal.
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 24-25April2011
Posted in Architecture,France,TravelTags: architecture,cathedral,Catholic,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
Legong Dancer
Bali has a rich and unique culture. At one of the temples in Ubud, a Legong dancer welcomes us to an evening performance of abbreviated classical dances. Bali is a wonderful holiday destination: the people are warm and welcoming, the landscape is varied and amazing, the culture is rich and fascinating, and the food is fresh and fabulous.
I thoroughly enjoyed previous visits to this lovely Indonesian island (see: Bali, Indonesia), but this trip was for a family function, rather than purely for recreation, so much of my time was taken up with logistics, rather than tourism.
Still, a girl’s gotta eat! Half the joy of travel is the flavours – and Bali’s local take on Indonesian cuisine is always a treat.
We also managed to turn one necessary shopping excursion into an excuse to visit Ubud, the cultural heart of the island.
Ubud had grown since my last visit and was much more crowded than I remembered. But, it is still surrounded by verdant rice terraces and punctuated with ancient temples. As well as being home to every type of tourist shop, and restaurants representing the flavours of the world, it is also Bali’s center for traditional crafts and dance.
We walked the length of the hilly town, taking time in the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, home to three Hindu temples and over 1200 cheeky long tailed macaques. After yet more food, we enjoyed an evening performance of the tourist-version of classical Legong temple- and palace-dances.
Join me for some food and culture!
On the Tarmac – Sydney Airport
Travel is always made sweeter when the weather you are leaving behind is inclement! (iPhone12Pro) Chicken Sate
My accommodation had no food on site and seemed a long way from anywhere! (iPhone12Pro) Table on the Cliff
The silver lining was that I was forced (in spite of the temperature (31°C and humid!) to get out and walk. (iPhone12Pro) Electric Sunset
This is the Asia I remember: tangles of overhead wires everywhere! (iPhone12Pro) Carpenter on the Roof
My son calls this the “Spot the OH&S violation!” game. People performing dangerous jobs without any of the protective gear we have come to expect in the West is still a common sight across Asia. Balinese Gate
In Bali, gateways are both physical and symbolic barriers, built to protect against wild animals and evil spirits. This one is a Paduraksa, a gate with a roof that serves as an entry to a family compound. Goddess Sculpture on the Walkway
The Ubud Monkey Forest has a whole new entry building since my last visit. From there, we walked across a bridge where Sri Devi holds a paddy to guarantee a fruitful harvest. Monkey Forest Entry
The journey into the forest continues through a cave called Durgama, named for the Hindu goddess Durga. The relief carvings on the entries depict the process of escorting guests in and out. Young Macaques
The crab-eating macaques, also known as Balinese long-tailed monkeys (Macaca fascicularis), in the forest are territorial, and divide themselves into discrete groups. All the animals are well-fed, and the youngsters in this growing population considerably out-number their elders. Cornerstone Detail Dwarapala – Temple Guardian
Known in Balinese as a Bedogol, this gate guardian statue stands outside one of the temples inside the Monkey Forest. Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal
The Padangtegal Great Temple of Death is one of three Hindu temples inside the Ubud Monkey Forest. Mature Macaque
The animals in the sanctuary are healthy and well-fed – but will still chase and tourists if they suspect they are carrying any food in their bags. Young Macaque
Three times a day, park staff distribute sweet potato. Macaque at the Forest Entry Lunch: Gado Gado (iPhone12Pro) Dinner – Lemongrass Chicken (iPhone12Pro) Temple Entry
After dinner, we make our way into the dark Pura Dalem. Blessings at the Temple Entry The Gamelan Band
At the appointed time, the traditional musicians start playing in what is a predominantly percussive ensemble. The Condong Dance
Traditionally, Legong dances, which probably originated in the 19th century as a Balinese royal entertainment, were performed by pre-pubescent girls. Today, dancers may be male or females of any age. The dances tell traditional stories and involve elaborate costumes, exaggerated eye movements and facial expressions, and intricate hand and foot positions. Baris Tunggal
A Baris dance is essentially a war dance, depicting the feelings of a young warrior prior to battle. Tari Topeng Punta
By contrast, this masked dancer is a mischievous old man. The Bee and the Flower
Some of the headdresses and hand positions bring to mind Khmer dancers, … The Bee and the Flower
… while the eye movements are similar to those used in some South Indian classical dance styles. Going Home
What is nice to see is the ongoing cultural tradition: I met these young ladies the next day. They were coming out of a local temple where they had just finished dance class in preparation for a festival. (iPhone12Pro) Little Dancers
It didn’t take much encouragement for them to strike a pose! (iPhone12Pro) Mount Batur
When I left the island a few days later, the clouds surrounded Bali’s active volcano. (iPhone12Pro) 
Flying out of Bali, I looked at the volcano rising out of the clouds, and reflected on the joyful but busy week I’d had.
Even when a Bali break is not a holiday, it is an absolute pleasure!
Pictures: 05-12May2024
Posted in Bali,Culture,Indonesia,TravelTags: animals,architecture,dance,dancer,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,performance,performers,Photo Blog,sculpture,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Those Stairs!
Immediately recognisable, the central staircase in the Main Hall of Dublin’s infamous Kilmainham Gaol has appeared in a number of films, tv shows, and even a U2 music video since the massive prison was decommissioned by the Irish Free State government in 1924. To me there was something surreal and troubling about watching Hugh Grant singing on the stairs of Kilmainham Gaol in pink-striped bell-bottoms.
It is a disturbing place: dark, cold, and in its day, severely overcrowded. Men, women and children were crammed in together, up to five in a small cell with only a single candle for light and heat. Everyday criminals were incarcerated alongside those who fought for Irish independence – starting with the Irish Rebellion of 1798.
Kilmainham was called the ‘New Gaol’ when it was built in 1796 to replace an even older one. A preserved prison register lists crimes ranging from violent assault to stealing loaves of bread or apples from an orchard. The youngest registered offender was a seven-year-old child; many of the adults were transported to Australia and regular public hangings took place in front of the prison.
In the late 1700s, John Howard (1726 – 1790), whose name is still associated with prison reform and public health improvements, became High Sheriff of Bedfordshire. He was shocked by the squalid conditions and resultant outbreaks of ‘prison fever’ in the jails within his jurisdiction. He educated the public about the barbaric conditions, and, with the aid of his own personal fortune, helped implement changes.
In spite of his efforts, prisoners in Kilmainham continued to be held in terrible conditions. They spent much of their time in the freezing cold, as the chill air was believed to purify a corrupt spirit. The lime walls retained moisture but not heat, and the windy windows in the cells were too high to see through.
During the Great Famine (1845-1852), even a newly-opened women’s section became immediately overwhelmed. Later, the notorious jail became synonymous with the Irish War of Independence (1919–21), with many political prisoners confined in the cells, and fourteen leaders of the Easter Rebellion (1916) executed by firing squad.
Access to the prison is by guided tour only; although my visit was quite some time ago, on a suitably dark and rainy Dublin day, I still remember how emotional our guide was as he talked about The Troubles – and how distressed I felt looking at the cells in which people were kept.
Of course, Paddington 2 is not the only movie filmed on location in what is now a now a museum run by the Office of Public Works – an agency of the Government of Ireland – and its Main Hall is immediately recognisable.
Come for a tour:
Jim Larkin
To maximise our time in Dublin, my husband and I had bought two-day Hop on/off bus passes. This gave us a bird’s eye view of some of the city landmarks. This bronze statue by Irish sculptor Oisin Kelly (1915 – 1981) depicts the founder of the Workers’ Union of Ireland, James Larkin (1874 – 1947), addressing the crowd. Almost Abstract – River Liffey Through Another Bus Molly Malone
In Dublin’s Fair City
Where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheel’d her wheelbarrow
Through streets broad and narrow
Crying cockles and mussels alive, alive o!
We grew up singing this song about the fictional fishmonger who died of fever around 1699. The first published version of the folk song dates to 1884; the statue by Irish sculptor Jeanne Rynhart (1946 –2020), was created in 1988. Affectionately known as ‘The Tart with the Cart’, the bronze is a popular tourist stop. The Bus Next Door Guinness
We drive past the entrance to the Guinness Brewery Yard, where we had stopped for a tour the day before (see: Raise a Glass). Main Entrance to Kilmainham Gaol
A short distance up the road, we come to the prison entrance. Above the doorway, the tangle of serpents, dragons, or demons, is said to represent the five most heinous crimes of rape, murder, theft, piracy, and treason. Museum Displays
In 1958, the Kilmainham Gaol Restoration Society formed to preserve the building and develop a museum and art space. Outer Door Key: 1807 Locks and Keys ‘Hard Labour’
An art gallery on the top floor of the museum exhibits paintings, sculptures, and jewellery created by prisoners from around the country. Dr Shane Kenna
Employed by Ireland’s Office of Public Works, our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable. Guarded Drainpipe
Every aspect of the old jail building is inhospitable. Stealing Bread
“Examples of food-related crime …” All the display signage is in English and Irish Gaelic. Catholic Chapel
In this chapel, Irish revolutionary leader Joseph Mary Plunkett married his fiancee Grace Gifford just hours before he was executed for his role in the 1916 Easter Rising. They were not permitted to speak during the ceremony, and Grace was allowed to spend only ten minutes in her husband’s prison cell under heavy supervision after the wedding. Arched Corridor
The hallways in the older sections of the prison are dark – and cold. Light the Darkness
These are the window inside the cell of Patrick Pearse – Irish teacher, barrister, poet, writer, nationalist, republican political activist, and revolutionary. A member of the Irish Republican Brotherhood and one of the leaders of the Easter Rising in 1916, Pearse and fifteen other leaders, including his brother, were ultimately court-martialed and executed by firing squad. Stripes of Paint – Texture in the Building Another West Wing Corridor
Even as a visitor, this place feels grim! I can’t imagine what it would have been like as an inmate. Main Hall
John McCurdy, freemason and official college architect of Trinity College Dublin, won an open competition to design a new section of jail in the late 1850s. In keeping with ‘modern’ Victorian principles, light was meant to inspire the inmates to look heavenward. The open design meant that all ninety-six cells could be seen from a central viewing area. Through the Steps
Even that magnificent staircase allows views of the room. Bricks around the Stonebreakers Yard
The cross marking the execution site of James Connolly for his part in the 1916 Easter Rising is hiding in the afternoon shadows. Entry – Exit
It is a relief to re-emerge into the open air from the prison – through the same door we entered by. “Proclamation” by Irish sculptor Rowan Gillespie (1953 – )
Across the road from the prison, we find the permanent outdoor sculpture honoring the leaders of the Easter Rising. The faceless and blindfolded figures each display a bullet pattern corresponding to where they were hit by the firing squad. Grim representations of troubled times …
We went for a walk to shake off some of the gloom – and found a nice pub for dinner and live music.
That’s Ireland!
Pictures: 08July2012
White Water at the River Bend
Rearguard Falls are magnificent! This small but beautiful waterfall is one of just two along British Columbia’s longest river. The source of the 1,375 kilometre (854 mi) long Fraser River is just 115 km (71 mi) upstream from here. I do love a road trip!
Of course, it can be easier with two people: with the non-driver navigating, map-reading, and watching for interesting stops. I find that I need to do much more preparatory planning ahead of time when I’m travelling solo.
On my last Canadian road trip, I made a point of breaking my drives up with walks. Thanks to the greater availability of free wifi, I made extensive use of the AllTrails App, identifying several potential short walks or a single longer one daily, and setting the starting points as my Google Maps destination before leaving my overnight accommodation.
Of course, if I had access to local advice, I’d make use of that as well.
After spending a couple of nights in Jasper, Alberta (see: A Day in the Maligne Valley), I was heading west. The first leg – to Prince George, British Columbia – was four hours of driving time, allowing me plenty of late-spring daylight for exploration along the way.
An hour into my morning drive, the information centre at Mount Robson came into sight. I was ready for a coffee, and pulled into the parking lot – just ahead of three large tour buses. Unfortunately, the centre had no power: therefore, no lights, no wifi, and no coffee! So, being at the front of the queue didn’t help me much. But at least the restrooms were still operational.
Mount Robson is a impressive peak: the highest point in the Canadian Rockies, with a beautiful, snow-covered south face standing out behind the information centre. I know this from photos, and from previous trips along this road; on this occasion, I could barely see it! The clouds dropped down to obscure the summit, and intermittent rains made the nearby walks very wet and chancy. The Parks staff recommended Rearguard Falls as a nearby walking alternative – just 12 minutes away, but outside the enveloping rains.
It was great advice! The trail barely counts as a walk – only 0.4 km (0.46 mi) return, but the small falls are quite magnificent. One of only two waterfalls on BC’s long and winding Fraser River, they mark the furthest that chinook salmon can swim upstream to spawn in late summer. The viewing platforms attract a lot of visitors from mid August to mid September to watch the tired fish attempt to leap up the rushing water.
I was there in late spring – so no salmon. But, one of the things that amazed me is how different the forest looked and felt around me with every passing kilometre as I descended out of the Rockies.
Do join me for a very short stroll:
West on Highway 16
I point the car west out of Jasper, and follow the Yellowhead Pass through the Rocky Mountains. (iPhone12Pro) Mount Robson Visitor Centre
The inside the visitor centre was dark and quiet: they were entering their second day with no power! The top of Mount Robson was shrouded in cloud – which released light rains while I was in the centre. Into the Woods
Not 15 minutes down the road, I stopped in the tiny Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, and set off on the short (0.3 km – 0.2 mi) walk to the eponymous falls. Sun through the Maples
Patches of light filter through the tall trees all around me. Leaving a Mark Rearguard Falls
You hear the falls before you see them! Viewing platforms allow you to look over the roaring waters. (iPhone12Pro) The Water’s Edge
The speed and force of the water is incredible! Every year in late summer, intrepid chinook salmon swim up the Fraser River to spawn; … White Water
… only the largest and strongest of the salmon make it this far – a trip of about 1,260 kilometres (783 mi) from the Pacific Ocean. These falls mark the final barrier for all but the very hardiest. Pleats in the Water Spruce Against the River
My visit was in spring, so there were no salmon, but there was plenty of new growth in the surrounding trees, … Wild Rose – Rosa Acicularis
… and many wildflowers along the path were in bloom. (iPhone12Pro) Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
These pretty little shade-loving ground covers always make me smile. Red-Osier Dogwood – Cornus Sericea
A related – but very different looking – plant, commonly known as red twig dogwood, is a medium-to-tall upright-spreading shrub. Dandelion in Seed Nature’s Artworks – Insect Trails Tall and Twisted
The twisted branches of the tall stands of western red cedar (thuja plicata) are draped with old man’s beard (usnea barbata). Natures Artworks – Stripes and Textures
The gold dusting on the textured bark is comprised of gold dust lichens (Chrysothrix), which – like the canary in the mine shaft – are an indicator of excellent air quality. Maples Overhead
Before I know it, I’m back at the carpark.
I could have lingered longer, but I had other walks earmarked on my AllTrails – and I still need that coffee!
Until next time,
Happy Walking!
Photos: 31May2023
Posted in Canada,Nature,TravelTags: animals,blog,British Columbia,Canada,Jasper,landscape,nature,Provincial Park,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Shiva on the River
This statue of Shiva meditating in the Ganges, in front of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, is emblematic of Rishikesh. Some stories mistakenly say that the statue was ‘swept away’ in the the truly devastating floods of June 2023. Although the torrential rains caused enormous damage and loss of life all across this region, Shiva did not budge. He sat unperturbed as the force of the rising waters swirled around him. At one stage at least, he was completely submerged – but unharmed. It was my last day in Rishikesh: that magical city of yogis and mystics on the Ganges at the foothills of the Himalaya.
I’d been there for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’ – a retreat that turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (more on that some other time), and I was determined to get into the heart of the city I had visited only briefly before.
I had met a couple of young lads – one of whom owned and operated a tuk-tuk – and organised for them to transport me to the Ganges for the evening Aarti. Their English was patchy, but their enthusiasm was unmistakable, and I assumed (probably wrongly!) that they would have a level of local knowledge.
Having witnessed the Ganga Aarti, a ritual venerating the Mother Ganges, in Varanasi and Haridwar (eg: Performing the Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri), I thought the evening ritual at Rishikesh – of the most ancient pilgrim places in India, and an abode of the [Hindu] Gods, would be worth observing.
While it was lovely to participate, I could see almost nothing, and came away with very few photos of the Aarti itself.
Still, it was a delightful afternoon, wandering Rishikesh streets and exploring the Hindu sculptures in the gardens of the Parmarth Niketan, the city’s biggest ashram. Do join me!
Selling Gold
The streets running parallel with the Ganges are home to a lot of foot-traffic, and the shops are kept busy. Ram Jhula
Built in 1986, this iron suspension bridge spans 230 metres (750 feet) across the Ganges, and is a Rishikesh landmark. People on the Bridge
The Ram Jhula is always busy with pedestrians. Candy-Coloured Temples
There are great views of the ashrams on both sides of the river here … Woman on the Bridge
… and many pilgrims are more than happy to be photographed. Macaque on the Bridge
Monkeys roam freely – but don’t seem to be a pest. Temple on the other Side
People come from all over India – indeed, from all over the world – to visit Rishikesh. The streets are full of pilgrims and tourists, and lined with ashrams and temples. Trinket Sales
Religious icons are available everywhere. The Juice House
It is hot – very hot. So, my helpers and I stop for a freshly-squeezed juice. The Juice Wala Krishna Chariot
A wonderful sculpture over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ganga Ghat is based on a story from a Hindu holy book, the Bhagavad Gita, and shows the God Krishna and the demigod Aruna in their chariot. The entry to the ghat is barred until just before sundown, so we continued to wander. Market Girls
Back in the secular streets, everyone has something to sell – and everyone has a phone. Bathing in the Ganges
Bathing in the Mother River is said to purify you and wash away your sins. Worth a try, right! I only went in up to my knees. Icons in a Window
Most of the buildings along the river are temples and ashrams, so religious images are everywhere. The Lord Shiva
Shiva meditating in the rushing waters of the Ganges lends a calm to an otherwise bustling location. Shiva in the Garden
We wander through the gardens behind the Ashram, and find another Shiva – … Gyan Mudra
… – this one with slightly different mudras, or hand positions. Mudra in the Garden
Mudras are symbolic gestures or poses in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. They are meant to help focus the mind and direct the flow of prana – life force or energy. Shiva and Parvati
We found another Shiva nearby – this one with his consort, Parvati. Vishnu and his Bull
There are a number of statues dotted around the extensive gardens – many of which my young ‘guides’ were no help in identifying! Betel Seller
Back in the bustling streets, venders are everywhere. Areca Nut
Chewing paan – betel nut from the areca palm, mixed with slaked lime and betel leaves, and sometimes tobacco or flavours, is ubiquitous across southern Asia and Oceania. Golden-Hour Check-In The Other Chotiwala
There are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; on my last visit to the city they were side by side (see: Iconic Rishikesh)! The original restaurant owner died and left the business to his two sons who could not get along. They split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. One has since relocated – so at least they are no longer next door to each other. Statue of Hanuman
We are finally allowed onto the ghat. Hanuman, the monkey god of wisdom, strength, courage, devotion, and self-discipline, shows how he holds Rama and Sita in his heart. Hindu Priest
As people crowd onto the steps leading to the Ganges, … Young Child
… I content myself with people watching. On the Ghats
There is a lot of milling around … Crowd on the Ghat
… and the steps are packed with people. I am one of very few non-Indians in attendance. Sunset
Finally! As the sun goes down, the ritual songs and prayers in praise of Ganga Ma, the Mother River, begin. Chariot Overhead
The skies darken and the songs continue. Prayers in the Dark
I can see almost nothing – but eventually the flames make their way to me and I am blessed. Shiva after Dark
With one last look at Shiva, I bid the waterfront good night.
Some reports say that Triveni Ghat, a few kilometers further south, is the most famous ghat in Rishikesh and the place for the evening Aarti.
Ah well!
Maybe next time …
Photos: 08September2023
Posted in India,Religious Practice,sculpture,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,India,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Religious Practice,sculpture,temple,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
.jpg)
