The Porch of the Maidens and Athens, Greece.

The Erechtheion and Athens
The beautifully elegant Caryatids, the six maidens of Karyai, stand watch over the Acropolis and the sprawling city beneath it. Built between 421 and 406 BCE, the Erechtheion was a temple primarily dedicated to the goddess Athena.

It was hardly off the beaten path, but is one of those ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences that was on my list: the Acropolis, that rocky outcrop rising 150 m (490 ft) above sea level overlooking Athens, and the Parthenon, the ancient religious temple built for the Greek goddess Athena at the top.

Mythical home of the Greek gods – familiar to me since childhood – the Acropolis is believed to have had earthly inhabitants since the Early Neolithic period (6th millennium BC). The Parthenon that stands in ruins on the flat mountain top was originally built between 447 and 432 BCE.

In its day, the Parthenon ‘was the largest and most lavish temple the Greek mainland had ever seen.’ Much of what we see today, however, has been reconstructed and/or renovated over time. During their rule of the city, the Ottomans used the site as a munitions dump. In the course of their assault on the city in 1687, the Venetians bombarded the site with cannonballs: the ammunition stores exploded, resulting in  hundreds of deaths and extensive structural damage. In the 1820s, the Acropolis was the middle of the combat zone between the Greek and Turks, and the Turkish Army removed the lead-coated iron clamps which held the marble blocks together to make bullets. By the 1800s, the site was in ruins, and over the following years was pilfered by looters and archaeological collectors. 

Still, there is enough left to allow us to appreciate the magnificent design and craftsmanship that went into the ancient structures left on the hill. 

I arrived in Athens the night before, after a busy week in Crete (see: Weekly Wanders – Crete). I had booked myself onto a small-group tour around the Greek mainland for this portion of the trip, and was thrilled to discover that the rooftop-restaurant in my rather plush hotel afforded me a wonderful view over the sprawling city and the Acropolis at its heart.

Join me for a walk up to the home of the Gods:

Pink sunrise and fading moon over the Parthenon, Athens, Greece.

Sunrise and Moon over the Parthenon
My rooftop breakfast balcony in Athens allowed me a stunning morning view. As if that wasn’t Greek enough, while I was enjoying my orange juice, the man at the table two inches from mine lit up a foul-smelling cigarette, as if to remind me where I was!

Man with an accordian, Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Street Musician
From the car and bus parking, it is a fair walk up the hill – but we were kept entertained.

Temple of Athena Nike Propylea from the below, Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Temple of Athena Nike
Continuing our slow walk up the hill, we can see the temple dedicated to Athena and Nike, the goddess of victory. Built around 420 BCE, is the earliest fully Ionic temple on the hill.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus
Built by the later Romans, the Herodion (or Herodeion) is a stone theatre dating to 161 CE.

Philopappos Monument from the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Philopappos Monument
The remains of an ancient Greek mausoleum and monument, built between 114 and 116 CE, stands on a neighbouring hill.

People in the shadows under the Parthenon, Athens, Greece.

Steps into the Parthenon
The walk continues upward …

Sun flare into the shadows under the Parthenon, Athens, Greece.

Towards the Sun
… and the morning sun greets us as we prepare to enter the Parthenon.

Columns in the Parthenon, Athens, Greece.

Columns Rising

View over Athens from the Acropolis, Greece.

Over Athens
Once we are on the hill top, the city – with its Christian Orthodox cathedrals in every quadrant – stretches out below us.

The Parthenon, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Parthenon
The Parthenon is huge – but in considerable disrepair. Restoration efforts in earlier years have often led to further structural damage. The building style is Doric, which I vaguely remember from art classes as being demonstrated in the columns with their simple round capitals, and the absence of bases.

Parthenon roof frieze, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Parthenon Roof Frieze
The remaining sculptural decorations are beautiful examples of early Greek sculpture.

The Parthenon, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Parthenon from the Hill

Tiled roof of an Orthodox church from the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Another Church Below

Athens and Lycabettus Hill from the Acropolis, Greece.

Athens and Lycabettus Hill
To our north-east, Mount Lycabettus (Lycabettos, Lykabettos or Lykavittos), the highest hill in Athens, rises 227 meters (909 feet) above sea level.

Corinthian capitals on the ground, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Fallen Capital
The whole site is a mix of periods. Corinthian capitals, with their decorations of stylized acanthus leaves, lie tumbed on the ground.

East façade of the Erechtheion, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Erechtheion
The Ionic-style Erechtheion, made to house the statue of Athena Polias, was my favourite.

Woman in purple in front of the Erechtheion, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Tourist Shot at the Erechtheion
Unlike most classical Greek architecture, it is asymmetrical in shape.

Detail: Ionic capital on the Erechtheion, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Ionic Capital on a Column – the Erechtheion

East façade of the Erechtheion, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Erechtheion
It’s an elegant little building.

The Porch of the Maidens, the Erechtheion, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Porch of the Maidens
Best of all, the Erechtheion is home to the wonderful Caryatids. These are replicas: five originals are in the Acropolis Museum and one remains in the British Museum.

Columns of the Parthenon against a blue sky, the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

Columns of the Parthenon

The Theatre of Dionysus, from the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Theatre of Dionysus
An ancient Greek theatre is nestled into the south slope of the Acropolis.

The Agora and Athens below the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.

The Agora
Below us, the Temple of Hephaestus stands on top of a smaller hill that houses the ancient Agora of Athens.

It was still mid-morning, but already the autumn day was heating up, and the hill was getting busy.

It was time to make our way back down from the Acropolis and explore some of the other marvels the city of Athens has to offer.

Text: Happy Travels

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 12September2022

Female worker holding paper frames, Annapurna Lokta Paper, Siddharthachowk, Pokhara

Worker in the Paper Frames
Making paper by hand is labour intensive – but the Gurung people here in the Annapurna mountains of Nepal are still happy to take time out to smile at tired trekkers.

It was a bittersweet feeling: this was our last day of trekking in the magnificent Annapurna mountains of Nepal.

Every step of this “Easy” Poon Hill Trek had reminded me that I’m not as young as I once was. But, the accommodation was vastly improved compared with my first visit to this region many years before, when I had stayed in drafty rooms without the benefits of heat, electricity, or running water. 

And, this last day was mostly downhill!

I love those mountains – and their welcoming (and hardy!) people. When photographer Gavin Gough suggested a post-Kathmandu Valley photographic-workshop walk to Poon Hill, I jumped at the chance. Much of that hike was revisiting the paths I had walked on the when doing an Annapurna Sanctuary trek some 16 years prior (see: Heaven and Hard Work).

I always find that I get into my rhythm just as a walk is nearing the end!

We set out that spring morning from Ghandruk, with mists all around blocking out any hopes of of a last sighting of the magnificent Annapurnas. Stopping to check out local cottage crafts, and to chat with locals, we worked our way down the mountainside at a comfortable pace towards our end point in Nayapul.

Small ponies on the path out of Ghandruk, Nepal

Ponies on the Cobbles
As we leave the mountain town of Ghandruk, we share the stone path with trains of dainty pack animals. Mists drift out all around us.

Looking down over the paper frames, Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory, Kaski Nepal

“Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory”
Frames of newly-made paper are stretched out below us on the mountainside.

Man holding paper on a wooden frame, Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory, Kaski Nepal

Paper on a Frame
We invite ourselves into the workshop, …

Man holding fresh paper, Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory, Kaski Nepal

Stretching Paper
… and learn how hand made paper is made.

Strips of bark drying on wooden benches, Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory, Kaski Nepal

Bark Drying
Daphne bholua, the Nepalese paper plant, is a high-altitude flowering shrub with strong, durable fibres in the bark. This bark produces beautiful paper – and can also be twisted into rope.

A man

Straining Paper
When the shredded bark is well soaked, it is strained on large frames.

Environmental portrait: Woman in red, Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory, Ghandruk Nepal

Woman in Red

Women handling paper frames, Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory, Ghandruk Nepal

Women at Work
A surprising number of people are busy at work – and they all seem cheerful and happy to be there.

Small ponies on the hillside near Ghandruk, Nepal

Ponies on a Hill
Decorated pack-ponies stand patiently on the hillside, waiting for their next job.

School pupils in uniform, Ghandruk Nepal

School Pupils
As I pass a group of youngsters heading uphill to school, I marvel at how tidy they look in these rustic surrounds.

Buildings set into steep, terraced hills, Ghandruk Nepal

Terraced Hills
As we descend in altitude, the fields look more productive.

“Real Hand Made Paper Shop”
A little further down the hill, tables are laden with paper products for sale.

Paper products for sale, the Real Hand Made Paper Shop,

Paper Products
I picked up several fabric-covered notebooks for stocking-stuffers.

A lone tree on terraced hills, Ghandruk Nepal

Lone Tree on the Terraces
The mists hang on the surrounding hills – but at least the rain holds off, and we have a beautiful, sunny day for our last walk.

Buffalo on a rocky terrace, Ghandruk, Nepal

Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis) on the Terraces
Half of Nepal’s milk and over one-third of the country’s meat comes from Asian water buffalos.

Toddler in an Angry Bird t-shirt, Ghandruk, Nepal

Angry Bird T-Shirt
Popular culture knows no boundaries!

Environmental portrait: Toddler and a young man in a cap, Ghandruk, Nepal

The Lads
Such gorgeous chubby cheeks!

Environmental portrait: two women and a child, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Women in the Hills
Even passersby take time out to smile for me and the camera.

Buildings set into terraced hills, , Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Foggy Terraces
Mist still clings to the terraces running down to the winding Modi Khola in the river valley below.

Environmental portrait: young child in pigtails, wooden balcony, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Peace!
A young girl welcomes us to a balcony restaurant.

Environmental portrait: young child in pigtails, wooden balcony, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Girl in Pink

Environmental portrait: woman in a kitchen window, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Woman on the Balcony
Mum is nearby – managing the kitchen.

A rough wooden structure on the hill, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

“Nice Wind Place”
A rough, drafty shack on the hill reminds me a bit of how trekker huts were in the last time I was here!

Chickens and chicks on stone steps, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Chickens on the Steps
As we drop down the hillside, our surrounds become more ‘rural’ …

Environmental portrait: young girl in front of grocery shelves, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Girl in a Grocery Store
… and there are more conveniences and people around.

Environmental portrait: young girl, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Grocer’s Daughter

Gray haired woman in a traditional nose ring, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Gray Haired Woman
Traditional jewellery often includes ornate golden nose rings and earrings.

Women in red with wicker baskets Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Collecting Greens
All around us, people are hard at work in the fields, or collecting animal food from the side of the track.

Environmental portrait: Woman with a bindi, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Smiling Woman with a Bindi
Red represents love, honour, and prosperity, and is a therefore popular choice for clothing. It is also the colour of the bindis worn by many married woman.

Portrait: Man in a Dhaka topi, Ghandruk to Nayapul, Nepal

Man in a Dhaka Topi
These popular woven hats are part of the Nepalese national dress.

Modi Khola on the rocks, Birethanti Nepal

And the Rivers Keep Running!
The Modi Khola, a snow-fed river starting high in the Annapurna Mountains, is racing flat alongside us: a sign that we have reached the valley floor.

Three Nepali porters, Birethanti Nepal

Our Guys
We make a last stop in Birethanti

Stone bridge over the Modi Khola, Nayapul Nepal

The Last River Crossing
… before crossing the Modi Khola towards Nayapul, where cars will meet us.

Text: Happy Walking!

We arrived back at nearby Pokhara with a feeling of fatigue – and a huge sense of accomplishment.

Photos: 24March2017 

Sunrise rays in a dark sky, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Here Comes the Sun!
The chance of a sunrise in the Himalaya is worth getting up for!

Daybreak offers hope, a sense of renewal. 

And, a sunrise in the mountains makes me feel like anything is possible.

I’m not a morning person – but every so often I can be dragged out of bed for a special sunrise (eg: At the Top of the World). I certainly wasn’t going to miss my chance at another one in the Himalaya!

I was staying in Rishikesh, in the foothills of the mountains, practicing yoga in the 35°C (95°F) days and failing to sleep on hot, muggy nights. So, an early morning sojourn into surrounding hills where it might actually be a bit cooler was an attractive offer.

We set out at 4am for the winding drive up to the top of a hill in nearby Terhi Garwal. It was still dark when we parked, and started up the 80 steps to the Kunjapuri Devi Temple, which sits at 1,676 metres (5499 feet) on Kunjapuri Hill. The temple is known for its panoramic views over the nearby snow-capped mountains. 

The pantheon of Hindu Gods and their complex histories always leaves me a bit muddled, but it is said that part of the immolated body of Sati, an incarnation of the Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, fell to the earth at this spot. 

Kunjapuri Devi Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Durga, the Divine Mother. Durga in Sanskrit means fortress, or “the invincible”; Durga is the most ferocious female Hindu deity. The temple is of immense importance to Hindu pilgrims and worshipers – especially during Navaratri, Durga’s ten-day festival (see: Haridwar Rishikesh Tourism).

But, like other foreigners and many of the locals, we were there primarily for the sunrise.

Night lights of Rishikesh from Kunjapuri Hill, Uttarakhand, India

Lights over Rishikesh
It was 5am: cool and dark, when we arrived at the top of the hill. We paused to admire Rishikesh, far below. (iPhone12Pro)

Concrete stairs up to Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Stairs
I was going to get my morning exercise! Apparently there are 80 steps up to the temple; I didn’t count them – I was busy trying to breathe. (iPhone12Pro)

Environmental portrait: The shopkeeper, Maggi Point Restaurant, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Maggi Point Restaurant
Near the top of the staircase, a shop sells temple offerings, snacks including pots of Maggi noodles, and – most importantly – masala chai. (ISO 6400, 28 mm, f/2.8, 1/200 sec) 

Portrait: The shopkeeper, Maggi Point Restaurant, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Shopkeeper
This was my first chance to play with my new mirrorless cameras – I was interested to see what they could do in low light. (ISO 64,000, 185 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec) 

Portrait: Young man, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Our Guide
Our escort from the Yoga school wanted to get in on the act! (ISO 64,000, 197 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec) 

Landscape: Midnight blue sky with a pink horizon over the Himalaya, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Predawn in the Himalaya
It wasn’t yet 5.30am when we got to the top of the hill; the light was just sneaking over the horizon.

Hindu gods in a meshed cage, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Gods
While waiting for the skies to lighten a bit, I explore the temple …

Man praying to Hindu gods in a cage, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Prayers
… where the faithful are already at prayer.

Pink predawn sky over the Himalaya, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Orange on the Horizon
A section of sky takes on orange hues …

Landscape: Blue hills under a pale morning sky, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Blue Hills
… and the hills roll off into the distance. (iPhone12Pro)

Distance sign, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

“Rome 3,642 – Тokyo 3,350”
(iPhone12Pro)

The story behind the temple on a plaque, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Kunjapuri Temple Story
Aversion of the story behind the the temple’s origin is on a plaque near the viewing decks.

Landscape: Blue hills under popcorn clouds, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Green Hills and Popcorn Clouds
(iPhone12Pro)

Fine green leaves with blue mountains in the background, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Almost Abstract: Foliage against Blue Hills

Landscape: Blue hills under a pale morning sky, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Layered Blue Hills and a Soft Pink Sky
The light and colours change from one minute to the next.

Landscape: Orange sky, a flared sunrise, and popcorn clouds, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Sunrise
At just after 6am, the sun breaks over the horizon and the sky changes colour again.

People silhouetted against the morning sunrise, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Watching Sunrise
There is a small crowd enjoying the morning views.

Two women silhouetted against the morning sunrise, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Enjoying Sunrise

Temple bells, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Bells in the Temple
Before entering a temple, it is customary to ring a bell: this alerts the gods to your presence, and helps focus your mind.

Seated Hindu man in a temple sanctum, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Priest in the Temple
In an inner sanctum, a temple priest is taking offerings and dispensing blessings.

Landscape: The Himalaya through a grill, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Mountains from the Temple
Morning has broken – I take a last look over the Himalaya

Concrete stairs down from Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Stairs Down
… before walking back down the stairs to our waiting car.

View over Rishikesh and the Ganges from Kunjapuri Hill, Uttarakhand, India

The Ganges
We stopped to admire Rishikesh in the valley below before driving back down the hill.

It was a lovely way to start the day – and I have enjoyed reflecting on it as we are about to start a new year.

Happy New Year to you and yours!

Landscape: Orange sky and popcorn clouds, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India Text: Happy New Day - Happy New Year

Pictures: 07September2023

Giraffes in their enclosure at Taronga Zoo, Sydney

A Heritage-Listed View
‘Taronga’ is a local Aboriginal word meaning “beautiful view”. The view over the giraffe enclosure at Taronga Zoo and across Sydney Harbour, Australia, is indeed beautiful – and has actually been heritage-listed .

The only thing better than a day at a zoo is a day at the zoo with young children.

Add trips across Sydney Harbour on a summer day, and the whole experience is hard to beat.

Christmas was fast approaching, and my young grandchildren were visiting with their parents. My husband and I decided that rather than buying ‘things’, we would ‘gift’ us all a day at the unbeatable Taronga Zoo (see: A Tale of Two Tarongas).

The historic Taronga Zoo was originally opened in 1916 in the Sydney suburb of Mosman, on the northern shores of Sydney Harbour. While it is a long drive from anywhere, using the city’s public transport ferry network makes getting there half the fun – especially in good weather. From Circular Quay in Sydney’s Central Business District, the iconic Sydney Ferries get you across the harbour in only 12 minutes.

The views are included in the price!

Join us at the zoo. 

View over Sydney Harbour, the Opera House, and Harbour Bridge from a ferry, Australia

Sydney Harbour
The views over Sydney Harbour are wonderful from the ferries that criss-cross the waters.

A Sydney Ferry on the harbour, Australia

A Sydney Ferry on the Harbour
The Sydney Ferries operate nine different classes of vessels; this is one of the First Fleet Class – true Sydney icons.

The Sydney Opera House on Sydney Harbour

Another Sydney Icon
On Bennelong Point in the harbour, the renowned Sydney Opera House sits in front of the city centre.

A view over the elephants from the gondola, Sydney Taronga Zoo, Australia.

Over the Elephants
At the ferry dock, a gondola lift takes visitors up to the zoo; …

Young child on the gondola, Taronga Zoo, Sydney Australia.

Glee
… everyone is excited to see the animals below.

Wompoo Fruit-Dove - Aviary, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Wompoo Fruit-Dove – Ptilinopus Magnificus
Our first stop was at an aviary where we were enclosed with a multitude of birds, including this fat native of eastern Australia and neighbouring New Guinea.

Australian White Ibis at the Sydney Zoo

Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca
Unlike the shy doves, the local ibis variant has adapted so well to the the growing cities that it affectionately known as the ‘[rubbish] bin chicken’.

Australian brush-turkey, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Australian Brush-Turkey – Alectura Lathami
Scrub turkeys are commonly seen scrabbling on the ground or building their mounds on Australia’s east coast – well north of where I live.

Ring-tailed lemurs, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Ring-Tailed Lemur – Lemur Catta
Madagascar is on my bucket list. In the meantime, the lemur enclosure provides close encounters with these endangered primates.

The Old Elephant House, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

The Old Elephant House
Taronga Zoo first opened in 1916, and some of the buildings bear testimony to these earlier times. Some of the original enclosures – like the old elephant house – remind us how zoos used to be.

Looking out through an ornate window, the old elephant house, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Looking Out
Modeled on the buildings of Northern India, the old elephant house certainly had charm.

Tasmanian devil, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Tasmanian Devil – Sarcophilus Harrisii
I always find Tasmanian devils a challenge to photograph: they have very quick and erratic movements.

A child and a Tasmanian devil either side of a window, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Interacting with the Devil
Modern zoos have multiple viewing points; I love how the glass wall allows children close – but safe – contact with different animals.

Meerkats, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Meerkat – Suricata Suricatta
Cuteness overload! I could watch these little mongooses all day.

Woman and seal, Seal Theatre, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Seal Theatre
We watched our timing, and made it to poolside …

Seal leaping, Seal Theatre, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Performing Seal
… in time to watch the seals work for their dinner.

A mother gorilla with a baby on her back, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Gorilla Feeding
Another zoo favourite are the gorillas; …

A gorilla with a food capsule, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Silverback
… to keep the animals alert and mentally engaged, their food is placed in puzzle boxes.

Kookaburra in a tree, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Kookaburra – Dacelo
Australian natives hang around in the trees.

Asian elephants in a plain enclosure, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Asian Elephant – Elephas Maximus
In the plain enclosure we saw from the gondola, the Asian elephants gather with their young.

Gondola overhead, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Gondola with a View
Overhead, the gondolas continue to run.

Spoonbill on the koi pond, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Spoonbill on the Koi Pond

Taronga

“Rustic Bridge”
Opened in 1915, this bridge was one of Taronga’s earliest landscape features. Designed as a romantic pathway across a natural gully, it was reminiscent of Italian grottoes.

Portrait of a man and an eagle, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Eagle and Handler
It is always thrilling to watch raptors go through their paces.

Tiger on a wooden platform, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Tiger Reflections
Critically endangered Sumatran tigers (panthera tigris sondaica) are housed in the relatively new Tiger Trek precinct.

Tiger on a wooden platform, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Tiger, Tiger!
Even at a distance, they are magnificent.

Child on a life-size crocodile sculpture, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

On the Croc
The little one finds a life-size saltwater crocodile, and makes friends.

Small iguana in a dark tank, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Australia

Iguana
Inside Reptile World, a huge range of living reptiles, large and small, are on display.

The Sydney Opera House on Sydney Harbour, Australia.

… and Back Again.
The short trip back across Sydney Harbour is a beautiful end to a lovely day out.

To the Future (text)

Being with young children in a zoo which promotes education and conservation for the future is a great way to spend a summer day – a true gift to us all.

Pictures: 15December2017

People on the shore of Bow Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

A Couple on Bow Lake
Bow Peak, Bowcrow Peak, and other mountains in the Waputik range stand tall and majestic around the beautiful glacial Bow Lake. Just a short detour from Highway 93 in Canada’s Rocky Mountains, it feels miles from anywhere.

Alberta’s Icefields Parkway has been called one of the most scenic drives in the entire world.

Highway 93, which runs the 233 kilometers (143 miles) between the little hamlet of Lake Louise in Banff National Park and the alpine town of Jasper in the Jasper National Park, runs parallel with North America’s Continental Divide through some of the most stunning scenery you could ever hope for.

It is breathtaking! Even in the rain.

I was disappointed to wake up to grey skies and scattered rain on the day I was set to drive north from Lake Louise. While May weather is predictably unpredictable, the month was almost over, and I’d been lucky on my walk the day before (see: The Bow River Loop). 

Driving time – without stops – between the two little settlements is well under two hours. But, it is all through National Parks and the scenery is so stunning, it hard not to stop every few minutes! I had done my homework, and knew I would have no cell phone or wifi for most of the route, so I kept the paper map I had picked up at the Park’s Office. I also knew that the very few available facilities along the road were predominantly closed for off-season: I packed plenty of water and bought myself a picnic lunch before leaving Lake Louise.

Braving the ceaseless rain, I pulled out my umbrella at Mosquito Creek, a mere 20-odd minutes (27 km – 16 mi) after setting off. It was eerily quiet without the crush of visitors who camp or cabin there in summertime.

My second and third stops were soon after: a mere 10.4 km (6.5 mi) and 2 km (1.2 mi) further north, at Bow Lake Viewpoint and The Lodge at Bow Lake, respectively.

Join me for a short section of the Icefields Parkway!

Highway and signpost near the beginning of Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Start of the Highway 93N
The driving itself was easy: the road was in excellent condition, and a lot less twisty than many mountain roads I’ve travelled. The hardest part is not becoming too distracted by the scenery all around. (iPhone12Pro)

Brown gravel road in the rain, Mosquito Creek, Banff Alberta Canada

A Very Wet Walk
The clouds dropped down and the skies opened up: it was very wet when I got to Mosquito Creek.

Rushing water on a rocky creek bed, Mosquito Creek, Banff Alberta Canada

Mosquito Creek
It was too wet for any serious walking, but I explored the nearby creek.

Small stone cairns in a rocky creek, Mosquito Creek, Banff Alberta Canada

Cairns in Mosquito Creek

A rocky creek with mountains behind, Mosquito Creek, Banff Alberta Canada

Islands in the Creek
The cold and crystal clear waters here have raced down from one of the over 100 glaciers in the surrounding mountains.

Wooden lodge, Mosquito Creek, Banff Alberta Canada

“Moosequito”
It was very quiet: although the hostel – and the campground on the other side of the creek – are open year round, there didn’t seem to be any guests.

Wet and quiet Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Rain on the Highway
Back on the road, the mountains loom and the rain continues. (iPhone12Pro)

Mountains around Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Mountains around Bow Lake
Less than ten minutes later, like magic the clouds lifted and patches of blue sky appeared. (iPhone12Pro)

Mountains from the Crowfoot Glacier Viewpoint, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Crowfoot Glacier Viewpoint
There is a small pull-off at the side of the road …

Crowfoot Glacier, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

The Weight of Snow
… that allows great views of the Crowfoot Glacier. The still-impressive-but-shrinking glacier, which once had an extra claw making it look like the foot of a bird, is one of the many water sources for the Bow River below.

Bow Lake and Crowfoot Mountain from Bow Lake Viewpoint, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Bow Lake Viewpoint
My next stop was literally one minute further up the road. There you have clear views over the magnificent Bow Lake. Like other glacial lakes, it is impossibly aqua-blue-green. Fine particles of rock are picked up, ground small, and deposited into the water by slow-moving and melting glaciers. The suspended particles filter the reflected light, giving these lakes their spectacular colours. Crowfoot Mountain stands tall (3055 m – 10023 ft) on the opposite shore.

Tiny-looking red lodge against a large snow-capped mountain from Bow Lake Viewpoint, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

The Lodge across Bow Lake
The historic Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is dwarfed by Mt Jimmy Simpson ( 2966 m – 9731 ft) behind it.

Bow Lake and Crowfoot Mountain from The Lodge, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Bow Lake
To get a closer look, I turned in towards the lodge, where I managed to park along the roadside. Bow Lake is just beautiful from every angle! (iPhone12Pro)

Top of a young Douglas fir against a mountain, The Lodge, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Douglas Fir – Pseudotsuga Menziesii

Wild strawberry in bloom, Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Wild Strawberry – Fragaria Virginiana
I follow a narrow, wet dirt path parallel to the lakeshore; it is slippery and full of tangled tree roots and small plants …

South over Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

South over Bow Lake
… but the views are glorious …

Waters around Bow Lake
… in every direction.

South over Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Shallow Waters

Bridge on the shore of Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Bridge on Bow Lake
Closer to the lodge, the path improves, and leads over a small bridge.

The red roof of The Lodge at Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Location, Location!
What a spot! This 24-guest-room lodge was the dream child of Jimmy Simpson, mountaineer, trapper, and guide, who came to these mountains from Scotland in 1898. Little has changed since Jimmy first opened it to customers in 1922: with no cell-phone or wifi, the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is truly an escape into nature.

People walking along the shore, Bow Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

People on the Lake
Time stands still here.

Unfortunately, my time was marching on!

It was already 1 pm, and I had covered less than 40 kilometres (25 miles). If I continued at that pace, I wasn’t going to be reaching Jasper before dark.

Reluctantly, I pressed on – vowing to come back some day.

Text: Happy TravelsUntil then –

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 29May2023