.jpg)
Layers of History
The Venetian harbour of Rethymno first operated some time after 961, during the Byzantine period. Today, lined with modern cafes and tour boats, it is a place for locals to fish and tourists to wander. The Egyptian lighthouse that marks the port entrance was built some time in the 1830s.
Crete, in the Mediterranean Sea, is Greece’s southern-most administrative region and the country’s largest and most populous island. The landscape has given up artifacts that are evidence of human settlement as early as 130,000 years ago. Even today, there are ruins and buildings dating across several civilizations.
The island’s long (1,046 km (650 mi)) and beautiful coastline is bounded in the north by the Aegean Sea and by the Libyan Sea in the south. The land is craggy and mountainous: about 5 to 10 million years ago, an intense tectonic uplift of the whole Cretan area gave rise to the many gorges, caves, and plateaus found today (see: The Formation of the Cretan Gorges). A high range – comprised of six different groups of mountains – crosses the island from west to east.
The most mountainous region is Rethymno (Rethymnon), the smallest prefecture on Crete. It runs north-south, with the White Mountains forming a border in the west, and Mt. Psiloritis delineating the east.
I was there on a tour-bus day-trip. We had started in the early morning in Heraklion, the prefecture to the east, and had driven along the rugged north coast before turning at Rethymno and following the winding, precipitous mountain highway south to Preveli. Once there, I had time to walk down the steep and rocky cliff path to a beautiful beach, where I could bathe in the Libyan Sea and walk through a rare and precious forest of Theophrastus palms (Phoenix theophrasti) (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest).
The return trip followed the same narrow and winding highway north through the spectacular Kourtaliotiko Gorge (Asomatos Gorge). This time, however, we stopped briefly to admire the jagged carbonate rocks that made up the gorge and the little hermitage or chapel that is nestled into one of the sides.
We also stopped in the beautiful and historically rich capital city of Rethymno, originally founded during the Minoan civilization (3500 – 1100 BC), and still showing architectural evidence of the Venetian occupation (circa 1250 – 1646), as well as the subsequent conquest by the Ottoman Empire (1646 – 1941). I wandered the streets, admiring the abundance of local produce, the unique shopping, and the centuries of architectural history.
.jpg)
Coastline from the Bus
As our bus takes us north, away from Preveli Beach (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest), I look back over the rugged landscape that defines southern Crete. (iPhone12Pro)
.jpg)
Venetian Bridge
While we were driving, I was glad to catch sight of this much-photographed Venetian Bridge over the Megalopotamos River. (iPhone12Pro)
Kourtaliotiko Gorge
We hadn’t been on the road long when we stopped briefly to admire the jagged rocks of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge …
Hermitage or Shrine in Kourtaliotiko Gorge
… and the once-isolated shrine, nestled into the mountainside where the highway now runs.
Drivers
We weren’t the only bus stopping, and our driver was happy to share a brief smoke and chat with an old friend.
Tour Guides and Bus Drivers
Fishing Boats
I started my city walk in the historic Rethymno Harbour, …
Textured Walls
… where old buildings speak of days gone by.
New Lamp : Old Walls
Knossos Tavern
Colourful coffee shops and taverns, named for local persons and places, promise fresh and tasty food.
Archaeological Museum of Rethymno
Now housing many artifacts from the ancient Minoan ruins nearby, the Church of Saint Francis dates back to the beginning of the 16th century.
Shopping Streets
Tourist shops, with everything from fine gold to local herbs, are nestled into the narrow Venetian streets.
Ceramic Door Knobs
Tourist Trinkets
Shops aimed squarely at tourists offer figurines depicting local heroes from Minoan and Greek mythology.
The Great Gate – Porta Guora
A Venetian gate remains from a 16th century fortress …
Old City Gate
… and still makes for a grand entryway into and out of the Old Town.
The Church of Four Martyrs
This relatively new church, inaugurated in 1975, is built near the spot where four men from Rethymno were executed in 1824 by the Turks for refusing to convert to Islam. They were honoured as Orthodox saints in 1837.
City Park and Urban Art
The nearby Rethymnon Municipal Garden is a pleasant break from the city streets. (iPhone12Pro)
Kostis Giampoudakis
Identified as a local hero, Giampoudakis died while battling the Ottoman Turks as part of the Cretan rebellion in 1866 at Arkadi Monastery. (iPhone12Pro)
Ancient Fountain – New Restaurant
New development in the ancient city of Rethymno has had to incorporate ancient ruins and remains. The Rimondi Venetian Fountain, with its elegant Corinthian capitals, adds a pleasant coolness to an inner-city space.
The Rimondi Fountain
Eight fountains in Rethymno are preserved; this one, built in 1626, is the only one from the Venetian years. According to legend, drinking the waters here guarantee eternal youth.
Old Street with an Enclosed Balcony
The Old City includes some elegant examples of Ottoman architecture.
Doorways
I spent some time exploring the more “ordinary” streets in the Old City.
Street Art and Body Art
The Old City is a delightful mix of preserved buildings and modern colour.
Lighthouse on Rethymno Harbour
My walk finishes where I started – on the historically layered waterfront.
Fortunately, I have learned to set my walking app to trace my path when I walk through new locations. It – like Ariadne’s thread – was able to lead me back through the labyrinth of streets to the bus in time for the drive back.
And, I took a little bit of the region home with me: I am still enjoying the rich smells of the beautifully packaged Cretan mountain herbs I bought in one of the many tourist shops.
Until next time,
Happy Rambling!
Pictures: 04September2022
