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In the Bowl of the Roman Theatre
In Cartagena, Spain, ancient ruins of a Roman Theatre (built between 5 and 1 BC) were once lost to memory under a 13th century cathedral. Today, the archaeological excavations and restorations contrast with the skyline of a thriving, modern port city.
I was never very good at history at school: I could never remember the names and dates required.
Walking around European cities, with layers of history in the stones around me or under my feet: that is a completely different story. Bearing witness to the slow march of people over time into new regions of the globe, and watching the marks they leave behind – or trying to find the traces of memories left without indelible imprints – that is the kind of history I’m fascinated by.
Cartagena, a port city and naval base in southeast Spain, is an example of the living, breathing history that captivates me. The site was originally founded by the Carthaginians around 220 B.C., and it was known to them (and their Roman contemporaries) for its natural port and its proximity to rich silver mines. The Romans conquered the city in 209 B.C. and named it Carthago Nova (New Carthage) after the original Carthage, the capital of the Phoenician empire over Northwest Africa. Over time, the city was: pillaged by the Goths, ruled by the Moors, destroyed by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1243, restored by the Moors, and finally taken for what is now Spain, under James I of Aragon in 1269.
As a modern commercial port, Cartagena now competes with nearby Barcelona, Málaga, and Alicante. Its ongoing naval activities are augmented by tourism As one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, the city now has two docks for cruise ships.
I was glad to be part of the growing numbers of visitors to the city. We were on a small cruise boat that was stopping in at various ports around the Mediterranean and Atlantic, and were happily lacing up our walking shoes for a bus trip through the old silver mines and across Murcia, and a walking tour around Cartagena itself.
Come along for a trip through layers of time.
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The Port of Cartagena
One of the joys of being on a boat, is approaching cities from the water. Cartagena has been a leading naval port in the Mediterranean since the 18th century, but today the importance of tourism is growing.
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The Docks
We get a bird’s-eye-view of the activity on the docks …
Mooring
… as we come into berth.
Shore Crew
Another beauty of being on a boat is that a lot of the planning work is done before we arrive: I’ve pre-selected the shore excursions we will participate in, and the local guides are organised and ready.
Gateway to Arsenal
Our bus trip across the city takes us past the gateway to Arsenal. This has nothing to do with the famous football club – as it turns out – but is one of the oldest naval bases in Spain.
Modernist Spanish Architecture
The modernist architecture of Spain may not be to everyone’s taste, but it is never dull!
Waves of Tiles
Designed by local architect Rafael Braquehais in 1987, the Assembly of Murcia building in Cartagena is a classic example of Gaudí-influenced waves of colour and form.
El Algar: Small Town Murcia
We are not long out of the city before we are driving through the old silver-mining regions of Sierra Minera de Cartagena and La Unión.
Mining Equipment
These hillsides full of silver, which once lead to the wealth of the area, are now almost barren: dotted with dry scrub, loose scree, and abandoned buildings and equipment.
Cape Palos Architecture
And then the landscape and architecture change again, as the the modern developments of the municipality of Cape Palos line the hillside between us and the Mar Menor.
The Fruit Gardens of Murcia
The sea comes into view, and the flatlands beside us are lined with rows upon rows of covered fruit and vegetables.
Cabo de Palos
Cape Palos is on the skinny strip of land of La Manga del Mar Meno; high-rise buildings make the most of available space.
High-Rises and Long Lines
Old Tower Ruins – Cape Palos
Faro de Cabo de Palos
We were here to visit the lighthouse of Cape Palos; …
Cabo de Palos
… more impressive for the views over the Mediterranean …
Cape Palos
… and the surrounding municipality …
Cape Palos Lighthouse
… than for the simple building and 54 meter-high light-tower, first lit in 1865.
Flowers on the Rocks
Cartagena City Hall
Back in the city, we leave our bus …
Cartagena Flags
… to walk past city hall …
Roman Pottery
… and into the Roman Amphitheater & Archeology Museum.
Visitors to the Museum
The Roman Theatre Museum, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo Vallés, steers groups of visitors through the story of this amazing archaeological find.
Guide and the Columns
Roman Column
In the Bowl of the Roman Theatre
Somehow, a 6,000-seat Roman Theatre lay forgotten and undiscovered for more than 2000 years! The ruins were found again in 1990, and the subsequent archaeological excavations and restorations were completed in 2003.
Guide among the Roman Ruins
The Structure of the Ruins
Cross-sections give us insight into the ancient stonework.
Santa María la Vieja Cathedral
Little remains of the cathedral that was built on the ruins of the theatre in the 13th century. The Cathedral of Santa Maria La Mayor was destroyed in 1939, during the Spanish Civil War.
Shrine
Catholicism lives on in the south of Spain: a new cathedral was built on a different site, and shrines are everywhere.
Lines and Angles
The angular fencing around the ruins is in stark modern contrast to the soft curves of the stonework inside.
Palacio Consistorial de Cartagena
Too soon we have returned to the town hall – designed by another local modernist architect, Tomás Rico Valarino – and are making our way back to our boat.
It was a fascinating teaser into a region with a rich cultural and architectural history. Given the opportunity, I’d go back to explore in more depth.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 16April2018
[…] – watch this space!) and the south of France (see: Ancient History: Nîmes) and Spain (see: Layers: Cartagena and Málaga) brings history to life, and makes me marvel at the magnitude of Roman […]