Gruyères Castle Courtyard
The medieval castle that comprises the old town of Gruyères, in the upper valley of the Saane River, is a popular Swiss tourist spot.
A castle, cheese, wine and chocolate: what’s not to love about Gruyères?
We were meant to be hiking around Leysin in the Swiss Alps, but it was raining, and had been for days. We went through the guide books and asked locals about alternative amusements (q.v.: A Trip to the Salt Mines). The medieval town of Gruyères was three train-hops away from our accommodation; so, with our Swiss Rail Passes and our umbrellas in hand, we set off to visit the home of the well-known cheese.
Three trains (Leysin-Aigle, Aigle-Montreux, and the seasonal “Chocolate Train”: Montreux-Gruyères) and two-plus hours later, we arrived in Gruyères. It was still raining.
Gruyères is in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, which usually makes my task easier – as my patchy French is better than my fledgeling German. According to the books, the Gruyères train – dubbed The Swiss Chocolate Train – would also take us to Broc, home to the Maison Cailler, a chocolate factory which offers tours. Unfortunately, the attendant at the Gruyères railway station was less than helpful – in any language! We watched him give short-shrift to some Indian visitors who spoke impeccable English, before getting no help from him in French or English ourselves. Travel is not without its moments of uncertainty.
So, we decided to hedge our bets, and walked up to the Château de Gruyères before travelling further.
Up to the Castle
After our three trains, we had a fifteen minute walk up to the Château de Gruyères.
Through the Castle Wall
Built between 1270 and 1282, Gruyères Castle is one of the most important medieval cities in Switzerland.
Young Lovers
What could be more romantic than a stolen kiss on a medieval battlement wall?
Inside the Castle Walls
The castle was bought back by the canton of Fribourg in 1938, and is currently maintained by The Gruyères Castle’s Friends.
In the Entry
Wherever there are tourists, you will wait a while for a clear shot! 😉
The City Crest
The crane (“grue” in French) in the crest gives Gruyères its name.
Castle Courtyard
We were pleased to discover the range of shops, museums and restaurants inside the castle walls.
Jesus over the Doorway
In the centre of the castle courtyard, an old chapel …
Egg Painter
… now houses artisans working, …
Turkey Eggs
… and crafts for sale.
Museum HR Giger
Since 1998, Château St Germain has housed the official museum of Hans Rudolf Giger, the surrealist Swiss artist responsible for the Academy Award winning design work on the movie Alien.
St.Theodul Church
Looking outside the walls of Château St Germain, one of the two castles in Gruyères.
Le Château de Gruyères
Looking up at one castle – Château de Gruyères – from another – Château St. Germain.
Wall Plaque
Giant metal plaques decorate the entrance to Castle of Gruyères; this one is on the left wall.
Old Armour
Gruyères Castle contains many old artefacts and has been refurbished as a museum.
The Garden
A formally sculpted French garden is maintained behind the château.
Paintings
Gruyères Castle hosts regularly-changing exhibitions by modern artists.
Put me in a Swatch
It wouldn’t be a Swiss town without a Swiss watch shop!
Fait à la Main
Finely woven linen, with delicate pulled-thread-work decoration, is on display in another shop.
Walkway to Gruyères
After a lunch that mainly consisted of – you guessed it – cheese, we walked down to the new town. Visitors were still walking up to the castle through the mist and rain.
La Maison du Gruyère
“The House of Cheese” beckons through the wet…
Watching Cheese Making
Safely inside, we head to the upstairs viewing area where wall plaques and audio-guides explain all about making the famous Gruyère cheese.
Factory Floor
We watch as the milk churns in giant vats.
Cailler-Nestlé Reflections
Somewhat optimistically, given the lateness (and wetness) of the afternoon, and the fact that it was school holidays, we jumped back on the train and headed up the tracks to Broc. A helpful sign told us there was a two and a half hour wait for tours. We opted for some chocolate-shopping and a stop in the Café instead.
Broc Station
Heading back down the line, I had time to reflect again on the charm of these small village railway stations…
“La Gruyère”
… and on the comfort and efficiency of the Swiss trains. For while we had not indulged in the First-Class Pullman train – complete with tour guide and croissants – we’d had an enjoyable day.
Not even the incessant rain, or the impossible wait for the chocolate factory, or the grumpy Station Master – who was still working in the Gruyères station when we passed through in the evening – could ruin our day.
For we had bags full of cheese and chocolate, bellies full of wine and photo cards full of images.
Well worth the trip!
Bon Appétit!
Pictures: 22July2014
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