Girl at the Doorway
Proud and self-possessed, a young “untouchable” stands at the doorway of her simple home.
There is something disturbing about having more valuable belongings in your travel bag than a whole village has within it’s boundaries.
This tension is inherent in travelling, particularly in photo-touring, in countries where wealth is poorly distributed. Although visiting under-developed areas – particularly with responsible operators – puts some much-needed cash into the local communities, it can still highlight huge disparities of income and opportunity.
This was brought home to me many years ago when I visited Fiji with my young children. They had saved up their birthday- and pocket-money, and had bought themselves new electronic games at duty-free while we were in transit. When we visited a remote Fijian village, accessible only by boat, I watched the children there playing in a dirt patch with coconut half-shells as their only toys. We had more “goods” in our holiday bungalow than these children had in their homes.
I recalled this experience when I was in the Thar Desert in Rajasthan last November. I was staying in the rather luxurious Manvar Desert Camp & Resort, Dechu, with photographer Karl Grobl, Rajasthani guide DV, and a small group of photo-enthusiasts. As it turned out, our tented accommodation, complete with electric heating, flushing toilets, and hot-and-cold water, stood in rather stark contrast to the local villages nearby.
Manvar Desert Camp
As we bump over dusty, desert roads, the tented resort where we will be staying comes into view.
Tents in the Desert
Set amid desert shrubs and grasses …
Manvar Desert Tent
… the tents are airy, roomy, and comfortable.
Wooden Camel
It is the little touches that make a room a “home”.
Jeeps in the Desert
After settling into our tents, we head out across the bumpy dirt tracks again…
Desert Village
… stopping at a local village in the middle of the desert to visit.
Kids at the Fence
The village children collect at the gates of the houses to have a look at the visitors.
Village Kids
After working up their nerve, the boys come out to stare.
Long Walk
Other people pay us no mind as they go about their daily business.
Young Girl in her Finery
Looking after Baby
A young girl looks after a toddler, who is marked as a Hindu by the tika on the forehead, and protected against being cursed by kohl around the eyes.
Old Man in the Courtyard
In the well-swept courtyard of one of the homes, more young children gather around an elderly man.
Village Elder
His regal bearing belies his “untouchable” background.
On the Wall
Pots and utensils nestle into outdoor shelving.
Tilling Sand?
It is hard to believe that anything is going to grow in the neatly tilled rows of sand.
Kids and Carers
There is no shortage of children in the village.
Woman in her Courtyard
Bangles and other jewellery items are a local wealth-indicator.
Family
A woman poses with two of her children – almost a generation apart.
Getting Water
Clay jars of water sit in the courtyards for anyone who wants some.
Every Village Needs a Cow
Keeper of the Keys
Another Baby
The Village Well
Bringing Home the Goats
As the afternoon draws on, the young boys race home with the goats…
Bringing Home the Goats
… and the girls, with their young charges, watch.
Into the Sunset
We pile back into our jeeps, and drive into the lowering sun …
Desert Sunset
… arriving back at camp in time to watch the red sun set into the desert shrubbery.
Night Tents
Our tents are lit and waiting.
I do think it is hugely important to travel with responsible operators who help local communities develop according to their own priorities.
And, it is necessary to visit with open eyes and respect.
But, there is still that tension.
‘Till next time, Namaste.
09November2013
Thanks Ursula for another great post! I like the way you compared and contrasted the village and the luxury accommodations we stayed in. You’ve helped us all remember and reflect upon how different our lives can be from others in this world.
Thanks, Karl, for your visit. Always a pleasure to travel with you. 😀
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