Afternoon view down Rue des Gras, Clermont-Ferrand, to the dormant volcano: Puy de Dôme
Clermont-Ferrand, in case you don’t know it, is a charming city with a two thousand year history right in the middle of France “at the crossroads of the main highways of Europe”. It is also at the heart of the Michelin company, so we are here while my husband attends meetings at his head office. As happy as I am to sit at a table on the cobblestones of the old quarter, drinking wine and eating the excellent local cheese, I am at risk of turning into a complete pudding.
Fortunately, Clermont-Ferrand is also within reach of the Auvergne volcanoes: a chain of eight dormant volcanoes (or Chaîne des Puys, in French) at the edge of the Massif Central. Looked after by the Maison du Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne, this area offers some great hiking opportunities. I was lucky enough to find an obliging local resident willing to accompany me on a couple of wonderful forays into the “Monts Dome” range.
These mountains are not particularly high (the Puy de Dôme is the highest at 1465m), but they stand out in stark relief against the surrounding plateau. On Monday, in changeable weather and under ominous clouds, we walked 1.9km up the well-graded Chemin des Muletier or ‘Mule Train’ path, through the hazel, oak and alder trees, to the top of Puy de Dôme. This sounds easy enough, but the 350m rise in elevation is much more difficult with jet-lag and and after a surfeit of wine and cheese!
Driving to the Puy de Dôme from Clermont-Ferrand, you have a continual view of the volcano from the access roads on the flat plateau surrounding it.
In 2012 you won't have to walk up the hill. The new crémaillère (rack railway) train will do the job for you. Puy de Dôme, Auvergne
Last year's oak leaves remain on their branches until the new buds send them tumbling...
The New Season's Alder Leaves
Physics Laboratory and Signal Tower Under a Looming Sky: Puy de Dôme, Auvergne
Up-drafts from around the Volcano Make it Popular for Paragliding
Safely Cocooned over La Chaîne des Puys
Ruins of the Gallo-Roman Temple to the God Mercury were Uncovered in 1873. Puy de Dôme
A Statue to the Pilot Eugène Renaux, who, with his mechanic Albert Senouque won the Michelin Grand Prix in 1911 for flying from Paris to Puy de Dôme in 5 hours, 10 minutes and 27 seconds.
Today (Thursday), we walked up the Puy de Pariou. Not only is the walk relatively easy, with a reasonable gradient and a total altitude of 1209m, but we were blessed with glorious sunshine, clear skies and great views across to the neighbouring Puy de Dôme.
Setting out on the Puy de Pariou Trail with the Puy de Dôme Overhead
The French Forest of Puy de Pariou
Anenome on the Forest Floor, Puy de Pariou
View of the Mountains in the Chaîne des Puys, from the top of Puy de Pariou
Whimsy in the Crater Bowl, Puy de Pariou
The Path Into the Bowels... Puy de Pariou
View from the top of Puy de Pariou ~ looking at Puy-de-Dôme
Wildflowers on the Forest Floor, Puy de Pariou
It was a beautiful way to enjoy a couple of spring days in the heartland of central France.
Enjoy the season!
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Nice ballad, I envy you 😉
Bonjours Cedric! C’est vrais ~ c’était tellement enjoyable.
Beautiful photos Ursula, I almost felt like I was there walking with you.
Glad to have your company, Trish! 😀
just lovely as always, interesting how in the ruins there appears (although clearly not) a burnt out bus near the fence.. or are my eyes simply playing tricks – the shape of the old stones etc…. very interesting. For the record I know it’s not a bus..lol
Must be your eyes!! Or a smudge on the lens! 😉 Lot’s of stylish graffiti around here, but haven’t seen any burned out buses. x