Pergola on the Point
A delicate pergola on one of the many rocky points on Gulangyu Island allows views (albeit foggy) of Xiamen across the water.
Gulangyu. “Drum Wave Islet”.
Named for the sound that the waves make as they roll off the Taiwan Strait and hit the off-shore reefs and rocks, Gulangyu Island is a delightful place. Just a short ferry ride from downtown Xiamen, in the south east of the People’s Republic of China, it is a popular destination for local visitors.
Gulangyu’s charming pedestrian-only streets are filled with traditional Chinese buildings and gardens, intermingled with Victorian-era European architecture dating back to colonial days. Following China’s loss in the First Opium War (1839–42), Xiamen became one of five treaty ports established under the 1842 Treaty of Nanking. Rich overseas Chinese and foreign nationals from 13 countries – including Great Britain, France and Japan – built mansions, churches, consulates, and public buildings on Gulangyu, which was officially designated an International Settlement in 1903.
The island is only 1.78 square kilometres in size, so it is easy to get around the maze of lanes and walkways. But there are plenty of things to see and do: locally renowned for it’s natural beauty, it also has numerous museums and other attractions. We bought the combined ferry + 10 attractions ticket for ¥100 (less the $20) and did our best to visit as much as we could…
Gulangyu Island
It is a hazy day, and the view from the moving taxi across the waters of Xiamen Port to Gulangyu Island is murky.
Gulangyu Island Map
In theory, it is a short hop from Xiamen to Gulangyu. In practice, the island is extremely popular with local visitors. When we arrived at the ferry terminal, there were crowds of people queued in numerous lines everywhere. Very little signage was in English and it took us a while to work out which line we belonged in!
Ferry
Xiamen Port is a busy waterway, with a number of different working wharfs along the waterfront.
Passenger Cruise Boat
Some boats offer scenic cruises around the islands.
The Masses
The herding of people on and off the ferries is actually quite quick and efficient.
Boat Dock
Xiamen is an important business hub, as can be seen by the glossy, modern buildings in the misty distance.
Leather Elephant Art
You could spend all day wandering around the numerous arts and crafts shops.
Rock Formations
The locals come to explore the rocks on the foreshore …
Sand Play
… or to play in the sand with new buckets and spades bought from the hawkers nearby.
Young Women on the Rocks
Posing for pictures is always part of a day out with friends.
Artists at Work
Fuding Rock
A statue of Zheng Chenggong, or Koxinga, a Chinese military leader of Ming forces who defended against the Manchu conquerors in the 1650s, stands high on Fuding Rock.
General Zheng Chenggong
The giant statue is 15.7 meters tall and weighs in at 1400 tons. The general drove the Dutch out of Taiwan in the 1660s, and so is a hero to the people there as well.
Zheng Chenggong
This tribute was carved from 625 pieces of white granite quarried from Zheng Chenggong’s hometown of nearby Quanzhou.
The Poems of Zheng Chenggong
The General’s poems are represented in beautiful calligraphy in celebratory gardens.
“Driving away the Invaders”
Zheng Chenggong’s victories are memorialised in sculptures around the gardens.
Cooking Squid
Locals consider the food on Gulangyu pretty special. A woman in a stall on “Food Street” prepares seafood to order.
Lunch Menu
We found a sheltered restaurant out of the midday heat. The pictures on the tablecloths allowed us to order our food with some confidence.
Sayings of Dr Lin Qiaozhi
The island has been home to some famous people. Dr Lin Qiaozhi, pre-eminent pioneering doctor of gynecology and obstetrics, was born here. Quotes from her writings surround the house that is now a museum in tribute.
Dr Lin Qiaozhi Linqiaozhi
The pictures, clippings and memorabilia in the Memorial Hall tell the story of a remarkable woman. She trained in Beijing, England and the US, and revolutionized modern Chinese gynecology and oncology.
Shuzhuang Garden
The island may be small, but there are miles of walkways meandering through the gardens and over the water. Shuzhuang Garden was originally built in 1931 as a private villa, but was opened to the public in 1955. It is divided into two parts: the Garden of Hiding the Sea (Canghaiyuan) (pictured) and the Garden of Making-Up Hills (Bushanyuan).
Piano Museum
There are several exhibits and museums on the island, with two dedicated to musical instruments: Gulangyu Organ Museum, and this one filled with pianos, including rare examples from the 1800s. There are said to be over 200 pianos on what the locals call “The Island of Music”.
Entry to Sunlight Rock
A family sits for their photo before climbing up to Sunlight Rock, the highest point on the island.
“Crag of Sunlight”
In the heat of the day, it is a hard climb up the steps …
The Peak
… to the 92.7 metre summit of Sunlight Rock, …
View over Gulangyu
… but the 360º views over the island – and beyond – are worth it.
Architecture
Some of the old buildings along the narrow streets are empty shells – others are renovated as shops, housing, and restaurants.
Boats on the Crossing
In the afternoon, the waters of Xiamen Port are still busy …
The Ferry Home
… as we make our way back to Xiamen.
It was a full day – and there was still much more we could have seen and done. If I had the chance to go back, I’d do what one TripAdvisor reviewer suggested, and stay overnight – enjoying the peace of the evening after the day-trippers have gone home.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 05April2014
