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Date Palms and Green Waters
Wādī Banī Khālid is a recreational oasis in the aptly named Al-Hajar (Rocky or Stone) Mountains of Oman.
As we parked our car and followed the stone and concrete walkway into Wadi Bani Khalid, I had Maria Muldaur’s Midnight at the Oasis dancing through my head.
Walking towards the green date palms after two days in the magical Sharqiya Sands Desert (see: Sand Songs and Desert Dreams and Life in the Desert), it was easy for me to conjure up romantic notions of starry nights, Bedouin tents, and handsome sheiks. Of course, that wasn’t quite the reality, but Wadi Bani Khalid is a lovely spot, and it is easy to see why it is so popular with tourists and Omanis alike.
A wadi (وَادِي) is a ‘valley’ in Arabic. In many Arabic-speaking countries, wadis are dried out creek beds, but in Oman, a wadi is a true oasis, with permanent pools of water and surrounded by palm, banana, or mango trees. Wadi Bani Khalid is possibly the best known and most popular of Oman’s five wadis; it is certainly the most easily accessible.
Join me as I explore:
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Entry to Wadi Bani Khalid
Our driver and guide Said, in his grey (lilac?) dishdasha and with a colourful muzzar on his head, leads us into the wadi.
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Signpost
The Sultanate of Oman is an absolute monarchy. Although a policy of modernisation has been in place since 1970, this is still a Muslim country with an expectation of modest dress in public places.
Edge of the Water
The Wadi is relatively close (about 203 km -126 mi) to Muscat, Oman’s capital and only major city, so it is a popular spot for local families.
Kids in the Water
Plenty of children are enjoying the shallow and slow waters.
Palms on the Wadi
Setting aside oil and gas, dates are the life-blood of Oman. They are central to the diet, the concept of hospitality, and the economy; so, it was sad to see the trees around the Wadi suffering. Unusually dry conditions – even by desert standards – have allowed some sort of illness to take hold, resulting in many yellowed fronds.
Dragonfly
Oases are an important habitat for animals and plants in the desert.
Bridge over the Wadi
The palm trees might be suffering, but there are plenty of shaded spots, …
Island Pavilion
… where people can gather and sit.
Bridge over the Valley
Another bridge leads to the lifeguard watch-tower, and a restaurant complex.
Rocky Cliffs
The wadi is quite extensive; the cliffs contain a number of caves and underground canals. There is some signposting with distance markers, but the rocks were exceptionally sharp, and the ground was treacherous. In spite of having reasonable shoes on, I decided not to venture far.
Swimming in the Rock Pools
You don’t have to walk or swim far to find beautiful rock pools …
Upper Pools
… with people swimming in them.
On the Rocks
Boulders in the Stream
Nature’s Sculptures: Rocks in the Water
Stairs into the Rift
The Valley Rift
It really is a beautiful – and rugged – setting.
Girl Running
The local visitors are all having a wonderful time.
Omani Man
Giant Milkweed Flowers – Calotropis Procera
Also called Sodom’s Apple, the milkweed is happy in Oman’s sandy soils and gravel plains. It is used in local traditional medicinal to treat infected wounds and skin problems.
Even with the surrounding trees, if you are not swimming, it is very hot in the wadi.
After a cold drink from the restaurant, I was happy to rejoin my guide and make the short walk back to the car for the two-and-a-half hour drive back to Muscat, all the while singing:
“Midnight at the oasis, Send your camel to bed,
Shadows painting our faces, Traces of romance in our heads…”
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 25October2019
