Le Château de Mont Orgueil ~ Gorey Castle
Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking Gorey Harbour, Gorey Castle – lé Vièr Châté: the Old Castle in Jèrriais, the local Norman language – protected the island of Jersey against French invasion for some 600 years.
Exploring Jersey, that compact British Crown Dependency just off the coast of Normandy, is like walking into a living history book. Every corner of the island tells a story of significant historical importance.
Take Mont Orgueil on the east coast, for example:
The Duchy of Normandy, which included extensive lands in what is now north-western France, as well as Jersey and the other Channel Islands, was first established under a 911 treaty between the Vikings (Northmen) and King Charles III of France. In 1066, Duke William II of Normandy, later known as William the Conqueror, defeated Harold II, the last Anglo-Saxon King, effectively making England and the Duchy of Normandy part of the same realm.
The Duchy was held by the Anglo-Norman kings of England until King John lost all his territories in mainland Normandy to France in 1204. Jersey, situated well south in the English Channel, was considered the last line of defence against further attack. So, utilising the rocky crag at Mont Orgueil, which had been the site of defensive fortifications from prehistoric times, the construction of Gorey Castle was started that same year.
The completed medieval fortress, first mentioned in 1212, protected the island until the development of gunpowder and cannon-shot made it’s position untenable. In the 1500s, Elizabeth Castle, built on Jersey’s south coast, replaced Gorey Castle in strategic importance (see: Elizabeth Castle History and Heritage).
For a long time, the castle continued to operate as a prison and a barracks before falling into disrepair. Since 1994, the site has been operated by the Jersey Heritage Trust as a museum. The Trust has done a wonderful job of turning the castle’s network of stairs and towers into an active treasure hunt for macabre art and fascinating history. Unfortunately, as the guide-books warn: the site is not suitable for people with mobility impairment, and I admit to having painful knees at the end of our visit!
Mont Orgueil Castle
It’s a rather long, steep walk up to the castle from the bus stop in Gorey below.
Mont Orgueil Castle
The castle was built nestled into the hillside. The beautiful original stonework has been carefully restored and/or maintained.
Ropes at the Ready
Mont Orgueil Castle
The castle walls and towers are no less formidable close-up.
Ripened Rose Hips
Many traditional food- and medicinal-plants can be found inside the castle walls.
Steps and Archways
Corridors go off in various directions; it is actually quite easy to become disoriented.
The Wounded Man
In a dark corner, we come across the first grizzly artwork: the huge ‘wounded man’ statue, showing all the ways in which a medieval injury led to almost-certain death.
Mounted Knight
In a courtyard, a knight sits tall and proud, carrying a lamb. The Agnus Dei or Lamb of God was used as a symbol of Jesus by the Knights Templar during the 12th and the 13th centuries.
The Long Cellar
Known as the Chapel of St George in the 1830s, this corner of the castle is set up as an old altar.
The Prisoners
Agitators and political prisoners were among those held in the old castle until the end of the 17th century.
Tudor Gun
Symbols of a later period: a tudor gun …
Tudor Gunner
… and a stylised statue of a gunner from the late 1400s.
Courtyard
From the battlements, it is a long way down to the inner courtyard and Gorey Harbour below.
Mount Orgueil Castle
The upper reaches of the castle seem to extend just as far the other direction.
Dragon
In one dark chamber, a mythical creature ‘flies’ above.
Mediaeval Kings and The Tree of Succession
Elizabeth and Raleigh
Sir Walter Raleigh, long-time favourite of Queen Elizabeth, was for a time (1600-1603) the Governor of Jersey.
Rocky Coast Below
Gorey Harbour
Shimmering in the late afternoon light, Gorey Harbour seems a long way away.
Gargoyle
This little gargoyle on a cottage fence looks as tired as I felt after descending from the castle, walking half-way across the island, and waiting for a bus that never came…
Even though we got back to our lodgings very tired from our walk through history, it was a day well spent. And certainly, we had it easy compared to those medieval soldiers protecting the island from their vantage points high up on Mont Orgueil.
Happy Rambles!
I am compiling a photobook for my family after a recent trip to Jersey with my siblings, which was just wonderful, especially for my older siblings who grew up in Grouville and Fauvic and who had no been ‘home’ for years. We now all live in Australia.
Our trip obviously included the castle at Gorey, where I was very much taken by the Tree of Succession sculpture. The sculpture is fabulous, however, I neglected to get a pamphlet to identify the various kings and queens depicted.
Is there any way you can help me with this? I took some close-ups but they don’t mean much without identification. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
Sue
Hi Sue,
Your project sounds interesting.
I had a look at my photo files, and I did not take a picture of the information signboard that was in front of the Tree of Succession. I had a quick look on line, and I couldn’t see it. If you are still searching for identifiers, I’d contact the Jersey Trust. (http://www.jerseyheritage.org/uk). They’d be able to put you in tough with the Arts Curator.
Good luck and Happy New Year!
I recently visited the castle and we had a guide who mentioned that there was a time when some exiles of Napoleon were housed at the castle. Can you tell me a little more about that. I have an ancestor that fought with Napoleon and ended up on the Isle of Jersey as an “exile”. Any information would be greatly appreciated including any names in a historical record and dates.
Carol Lewis
Hi Carol,
What a fascinating history your family has! Like you, I was just a visitor; I suggest you contact a Jersey historical society for more information.
Cheers, Ursula